Texas, Louisiana, and a Touch of Florida

Hi, It’s reassuring to know we’re not the only ones who had mixed feelings about NOLA, at least in the summer. We should give it another shot in the spring, but since we’ve already checked off all the points of interest nearby, it’ll be hard to find the motivation...

07/31 - Day 17: Space Center Houston - Painted Churches

During my planning, to make it all the way to Florida in 3 weeks, I had to make some tough choices among the four major Texan cities: Dallas, San Antonio, Austin, and Houston. And it was the last one that got the short end of the stick... Well, almost, because we still decided to visit one site—and not just any site: Space Center Houston!

It’s one of the most visited attractions in the city, so we made sure to get there well before opening to avoid the big crowds.

From the outside, we already took photos in front of one of the stars of the day: the massive Boeing 747 carrier.

At the entrance, we got the family photo as a keepsake—after shelling out a few dozen dollars for a photo package. Some of the photo montages turned out great, others not so much!

As soon as we stepped into the huge hall, we booked our tour for the astronaut training center and the Saturn V rocket. While waiting for it to start, we checked out the different exhibits.

The Training Center Tour began around 9:30 AM. On the way, our tourist train passed by the building housing the Saturn V, which we’d visit later.

We started with the astronaut training center, which had various capsules and tons of study equipment.

The visit went by pretty quickly, so we hopped back on the train and headed to the massive building storing the Saturn V rocket.

Outside, there were a few decommissioned capsule engines. Then we went inside the building, where the rocket was tough to photograph in its entirety.

Since the rocket was used in all the Apollo missions, the site was naturally dedicated to the history and anecdotes of each one. The most famous, of course, is Apollo 11, when humans first walked on the Moon.

Another view of the rocket and its different stages

We then returned to the main site to visit the Boeing 747 carrier with the Space Shuttle Orbiter.

The inside of the plane was preserved in its original state, including the cockpit.

After that, we went back to the main hall, where we could explore the interiors of several capsules and other spacecraft.

After 5 hours there, we had to head to San Antonio.

On the way, our first stop was Columbus—a town with not much to see except for a few buildings around the central square.

To get to San Antonio, we took Route 10. While poking around on Google Maps and the internet, I discovered several remarkable churches called Painted Churches that are worth a little detour.

The first Catholic church is located in Dubina.



The second Painted Church is St. Mary Roman Catholic Church, located in Hugh Hill, in the middle of nowhere!

Our favorite! What harmony in the colors, what finesse in the ornaments and carvings.



The last one we visited is the church in Praha. The ceiling is less elaborate than those of the previous churches, but it’s still beautifully painted. The altar and the pulpit really catch your eye...

After these unique visits—unknown to paper guidebooks—we stopped at Walmart to grab dinner, then arrived at our 5-room house, the most spacious of the trip, located in the eastern suburbs of San Antonio.

08/01 - Day 18: San Antonio

Given the expected daytime temperatures, we decide to start the day’s program with the Japanese Tea Garden.

Arriving at 8 AM, the parking lot is almost empty, and entry is free. Glancing at the information board, we learn that starting at 9 AM, the rate is $13 for adults and $7 for teens. So, we made the right call by getting here early—not to mention the garden is nearly deserted!

Even though the garden isn’t very large, the view from the upper section is stunning!

Strolling along the paths, the scenery and atmosphere shift with each turn. Several small islands are set up in the heart of the water basin.



It’s not the best season for blooms, but the wide variety of plants still offers plenty of colorful landscapes.

Next, we head downtown and easily find all-day parking near the hyper-center.

Bexar County Office, one of the administration buildings

We’re tempted to climb to the top of the Tower Life Building, but the security guard tells us it’s private property.

As we leave the building, we run into two bike cops who greet us—such a surprising first!

We then reach the heart of the city and its iconic River Walk, a maze of canals formed by the peaceful San Antonio River.

First stop at the esplanade recently used for the worldwide introduction of Wembanyama, the Spurs’ latest recruit.

The arched bridges are everywhere.

Boats are already offering guided tours of the canals, showcasing historic, cultural, and commercial buildings from a different angle. Listening to the guide, we realize we don’t understand a word—he’s not making any effort to speak slowly or clearly. Then again, most passengers are Americans, not foreign tourists.

That completely puts us off trying the experience. A walk on foot will do just fine without the added value of the guide’s commentary.

The path along the River Walk winds through downtown, lined with cypress trees, restaurants, shops, and bars.

A lovely terrace

Some boats are cruising nearly empty. After walking a few hundred meters, we come across the Alamo, Texas’s most famous monument and one of the most photographed sites in the U.S. This former Spanish mission is known for the brutal 1836 siege, when Mexican troops launched thousands of soldiers against the fort, then held by nearly 200 Texan rebels, including the legendary Davy Crockett. All were killed, but during the siege, Texas won its freedom and declared independence.

The site is mainly symbolic, representing the courage of Texas’s defenders, as the inside of the building is quite plain and not particularly interesting. In the gift shop, the battle cry "Remember The Alamo!" is everywhere.

Downtown is really pleasant, with beautiful government buildings alongside luxurious hotels.

Inside the Buckhorn Saloon & Museum



After another short stroll along the Riverwalk, we visit San Antonio Cathedral, where we stay for quite a while—more to enjoy the refreshing AC than to pray, I’ll admit!

Then, after passing a few very typical buildings,

we arrive at the Spanish Governor's Palace. This historic landmark is the last standing example of a colonial aristocrat’s residence.



The interior has been beautifully restored, with its immaculate white walls, heavy carved wooden doors, and dark wood furniture.

Since we’re getting hungry, we head off in search of a Mexican restaurant at Historic Market Square.

The folk-style decor of the main alley makes it feel more like an amusement park than an authentic Mexican market!

We find what we’re looking for at Mariachi Bar, right next to the famous Mi Tierra bakery. We love the restaurant’s interior decor, and the food is great.

Our afternoon visits are planned on the outskirts of the city, so we head back to pick up our car, stopping by the Riverwalk again.



We then drive to the King William Historic District, hoping to see some beautiful Victorian homes.

The architectural styles we come across are very diverse.

Since it's only 3 PM, we decide to wrap up this marathon day with a visit to San Antonio Missions National Historic Park, a collection of Franciscan missions located close to one another.

There are five of them, but we’ll settle for visiting three to avoid overdosing. The first on our list is Mission San Juan Capistrano. The chapel, dating back to 1772, along with the rectory and the Indian camp, has been fully restored.

A nice view of the chapel from the ruins across the huge grassy central plaza.

The second mission is San José, known for being the most beautiful and impressive of the missions!

Inside the church, finely carved stone statues.

Finally, Concepción is the oldest mission. Inside the church, a guide explains its history to us.

Some beautiful arcades. We leave around 5 PM, at closing time, pretty exhausted. Since no one feels like heading back downtown to enjoy the nighttime atmosphere and lights, we have a quiet dinner at our apartment.

Another memorable day packed with visits! !

Well, almost, because we still decided on one site—and not just any site: The Space Center Houston!

The Space Center in Houston really does resemble Cape Canaveral, which we visited during our stay in Florida. We really enjoyed that visit; we even got to see a "virtual" rocket launch.

Cape Canaveral must be even more impressive. If we ever go back to Florida, we’ll check it out!

What’s really impressive are the launch pads—otherwise, it feels just like Houston. When I visited, there wasn’t a shuttle at Cape Canaveral.

Hello, you talk about Florida so much—I feel like you’re really going to end up going! It’s a great idea to combine it with Charlotte and Savannah if you’re going for three weeks!

See you soon,

Vinciane

Hey Vinciane, We’ll get to Florida one day, but there are still 2-3 regions I’m more excited about for now: CO-NM, Oregon-Washington, and the Northeast Coast.

08/02 - Day 19: Texas Hill Country

We decided to spend 4 nights in San Antonio, not just to explore the city but also to check out the surrounding area, the Hill Country.

The Hill Country is a must-see on a first visit—it’s the true heart of Texas. With its rolling green hills, small towns, and human-scale ranches, it feels closer to what we know from European countryside than the vast, arid landscapes of West Texas.

Our first stop was Castroville. You can’t get more European than this—Castroville is home to a few Alsatian houses.

Here’s the most famous one, with the four flags symbolizing its origins.

Right next door, there’s a bakery with Alsatian specialties.

At least, that’s what the sign says—because once we went inside, we didn’t see a single one! We settled for some cinnamon croissants instead, just to keep things familiar.

Since I’d read there were several Alsatian houses to see, we drove through every street in the little town, but came up empty. No luck finding even one more.

We eventually gave up and moved on to our second stop: Bandera, the cowboy capital!

Along the way, rolling roads lined with forests and prairies.

Bandera is nicknamed the cowboy capital of the world for its many guest ranches, which have been welcoming tourists for decades eager to learn about cowboy life. I’d even considered spending a day or two at one of these all-inclusive ranches so we could learn to sit straight in the saddle, throw a lasso, or listen to cowboy stories under the stars around a campfire.

But the only ranch that offered a 24-hour immersion had closed during COVID, and the rates for the other dude ranches—requiring at least two nights—were way too steep for the five of us...

So we settled for a stroll through the downtown area, which has a great vintage vibe.

Laetitia treated herself at The Cowboy Store, picking up a new pair of leather boots at a sweet price.

Some buildings still have hitching posts for horses, which aren’t just for decoration—apparently, some locals still ride into town on horseback.

Next, we got lost in Western Trails Antiques, a massive consignment-style store packed with all sorts of used items typical of the Southwest.

We didn’t know where to look first—there was just so much to see!



Our next stop was Kerrville.

In the main square, we saw two police officers getting their picture taken. I took the chance to ask for permission, which they gave without any fuss! The officer struck a pose, looking mighty proud.

Near Kerrville, there’s a replica of Stonehenge—the famous Neolithic megalithic monument in England. While the original is partly damaged by time, this replica is in perfect condition—almost *too* perfect.

This site isn’t really worth lingering over, but since we were passing through, it broke up the drive to Fredericksburg, the "capital" of the Hill Country. As the name suggests, the town has German roots, and its economy thrives on tourism thanks to its many shops, bars, art galleries, and wine-tasting rooms.

It was scorching hot, and the old windmills weren’t giving off even the slightest breeze to cool us down.

Among the hundreds of storefronts, there were the inevitable shops selling cowboy boots. And off we went, browsing endless aisles displaying all kinds of styles for every budget! Laetitia fell for a pair of red leather boots, which I surprised her with as an early Christmas gift.

Still on Main Street, several religious buildings, including an air-conditioned church that tempted us to pray again...

Main Street

The last stop of the day is Luckenbach, known for its festivals and concerts.

The parking lot is huge, but it's not in the middle of summer that the big concerts must take place. We still get to enjoy a performance by a local singer while sipping a nice cold beer!



A few true-blue Texans are among the spectators at this rather intimate concert. You can easily spot them by the guns strapped to their belts, despite the clearly posted "no firearms" sign at the entrance!

Several wooden buildings and bronze replicas of famous singers add a lot of charm.



The drive back to San Antonio takes us through lush, green hills that serve as pasture for cattle.

03/08 - Day 20: Texas Hill Country and San Antonio Evening

Originally, I had planned two full days to visit San Antonio. But since we finished our itinerary faster than expected, we’ve got an extra day to hopefully put some Plan Bs into action.

Leaving San Antonio, we make a small detour to check out the massive American football stadium.

To start the day, we head to the San Marcos Outlets to stock up on Levi’s jeans. At 50 € a pair, we’re not going to pass that up...

Next, I’d spotted a few potential swimming spots. The first is in Wimberley: Blue Hole Regional Park. But when we drive over Cypress Creek, which is supposed to feed the swimming area, we can only see that the river is completely dry!

We continue a bit further to Jacobs Well Area. The Instagram photos look absolutely amazing, and we can’t wait to see the place in person!

When we arrive, the parking lot is almost empty. We see a couple coming back from the trail to the swimming area, and they advise us not to go.

No one’s really up for it anymore. Still, since it’s lunchtime, I decide to go alone as a scout while the rest of the family prepares a picnic in the shade of one of the few trees around.

After a 1 km walk in the scorching heat, I finally arrive, but this time of year, there’s a *slight* gap between the Insta photos and reality 🏴‍☠️!!

After lunch, we head back disappointed to Wimberley, where we wander around to kill time since there’s not much left on the agenda for this last afternoon.

The town center is super touristy—packed with people.

We just can’t get enough of these typical Texan towns and their unique atmosphere!

Then it’s back to San Antonio.

For our last evening, we return to the Riverwalk to enjoy the decorations in the trees and on the boats.





We stop at a bar for a cocktail. Even Maxime managed to have one despite being only 18! It helped that when we ordered, he was conveniently in the bathroom, and the waitress only asked the parents for IDs—the only people present—without noticing there was one more cocktail ordered than IDs shown!

08/04 - Day 21: Austin and Waco

It’s not without a pang of sadness that we leave our San Antonio house this morning, because it means we only have one night left before our return flight.

We head toward Austin, the capital of Texas, even though it’s only the state’s fourth-largest city, behind Houston, Dallas, and San Antonio.

Before parking the car in a secure lot we booked online, we stop by Mount Bonnell. To avoid any mishaps, we split into two groups so there’s always someone with the car. There are about 250 steps to climb to reach the panoramic view of the city and the Colorado River.

Next, we visit the military cemetery where Chris Kyle, The Legend, rests in peace.

We didn’t have too much trouble finding his grave, since Chris has a prime spot.

This cemetery is stunning, with its pathways lined with Texas flags. American patriotism at its peak!

After securing our car, we stroll through downtown, which leads straight to the Capitol.

And here we are at the Texas State Capitol, the second one we’ve visited after the Louisiana Capitol in Baton Rouge.







Going up to the upper floors lets us catch a family doing a photoshoot in the heart of the Capitol.

The chambers of the representatives and senators.

After that, we take a little walking tour of the downtown area, supposedly passing through streets with beautiful murals according to a blog we read that very morning.

But we don’t see a single one! Goes to show, those blogs...

We settle for a few nice buildings, a trailer being pulled by young people drinking while pedaling, or a food truck.

A few impressive skyscrapers

A courtesy vehicle from a rather unique hotel

We intentionally skipped lunch because I planned to eat at Broken Spoke, a restaurant known for serving excellent meat. It opens every day at 4 PM. At 3:55 PM, we’re already parked in the lot.

Barely out of the car, an employee—who turned out to be the manager—comes out to yell at us to move the car because it’s parked wrong. Not the warmest welcome...

Of course, we’re the first to arrive, and we each order a Beef Plate, an assortment of beef.

We love the decor and the vibe of the place, but not so much the meat—it’s no better than what you’d get at a big chain. On top of that, it’s served on plastic plates with mediocre sides.

When it came time to pay, I almost got scammed for the first time in the U.S.!

To pay, the woman told me I had to go to the counter. As usual, she asked for my card but didn’t give me the itemized bill. When I went to enter my PIN, I saw a total of $148, then she handed me the receipt to add a tip, with the blank line clearly visible. Since we’d ordered 5 plates at just over $20 each and 5 drinks, I was surprised—the total should’ve been around $120 before tips.

So I asked for the itemized bill, which she initially refused to print. After insisting, she finally sighed and handed it over. That’s when I saw that a 22% tip had been automatically added to the bill. When I started asking why she was trying to double-tip me—since 22% was already included—she got angry, raised her voice, and tried to justify her dishonesty. We left without saying thank you or goodbye, making sure to cross out the receipt where she’d asked for an additional tip, though we couldn’t get the first one removed since it had already been charged...

In short, not a great memory from our last restaurant of the trip!!

We then head north to Waco. After a quick stop in front of the Grand Masonic Lodge

we stroll across the large metal bridge lined with bronze longhorns, kind of like in Dallas.

This must be THE photo spot in Waco because we run into a group of high school girls posing for group pictures.

Laetitia and Rachel do the same, of course...

To wrap up the trip, we would’ve loved to linger at the Texas Rangers Museum, but it’s been closed for hours!

We’re about an hour away from Fort Worth, where our last hotel of the trip awaits.

05/08 - Day 22: Return flight and recap

Our return flight isn’t until 3 PM, but after breakfast and playing Tetris to fit all the jeans and cowboy boots into our bags, the morning is already well underway. All that’s left is the short drive to the airport before hopping on an A380 for the flight home—no surprises this time.

Recap:

As expected, we had three intense weeks with a mix of landscapes, vibes, and varied visits. Combining several states packed the itinerary but allowed for a diverse trip. If we were to do it again, I’d add a night in Dallas and skip one in Florida—but originally, two full days in Florida seemed ideal for a mid-trip break. Either way, it was one of our best trips to the U.S., far from the usual standards!

Highlights:

- The bayous: We came for this kind of scenery, and we got plenty—both in Texas (canoeing at Caddo Lake and Black Bayou Lake) and Louisiana (Lake Martin).

- We all loved the Western vibe of Texas and its small towns. You can tell this state is wealthier than Utah or Arizona—there are fewer run-down homes and more lively towns.

- Visiting Space Center Houston and the USS Alabama—don’t miss these!

- The Plantation Route, full of history.

Lowlights:

- The heat—sometimes dry, sometimes humid—was tough to handle over time and drained our energy.

- The second beach day in Florida, when one would’ve been enough.

- The overall vibe and feeling in New Orleans.

- A few visits that didn’t live up to expectations, like BK House in New Orleans, Bellingrath Gardens, and Cajun Man’s Swamp Tour (because of the alligator feeding and mediocre scenery).

As we boarded the return flight, we swore we wouldn’t travel to such hot destinations in the summer again—at least for a while, until we forget...

So long, Morocco, Turkey, and even Arizona in the summer. Next destinations will be chosen based on budget from these: Namibia, Iceland, Peru-Bolivia, Kyrgyzstan, Northwest Argentina, Canada, etc...

Thanks Guillaume for this lovely road trip through cowboy country and the bayous!👍 A journey that lets us discover other corners of the USA. Next travel journal… Iceland? 😄

Thanks Isabelle. I’m actually working on my Iceland travel journal on my personal blog 😉. We’ll see later if I post it on VF...