Kenya - January 2025 - Tsavo East - Tsavo West - Samburu - Meru NP - Aberdare NP

After showing you all those herbivores, it would be surprising if there weren’t a few predators in the area!...

On our very first evening, we were incredibly lucky to come across this lioness, who seemed to be on the hunt for prey.



She passed very close to us on the track.



And then, a little further on, we discovered seven lion cubs.















What we learned about these cubs is that they’re from two different litters (with just a 2- or 3-week age gap) and are being raised by three lionesses—including the one we saw earlier. We didn’t see them again during our stay because, the night after we arrived, the lionesses moved them across the Ewaso Ngiro to settle near Buffalo Springs.....

The lion cubs are gorgeous, what luck!

Hello,

It’s always such a joy to discover a beautiful family of very young lions. They seem so curious about us, with their bright, wide-open "marbles" (eyes). It’s really sad to hear that the Grevy’s zebra population is dwindling so much.

Best regards.

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The lion cubs are gorgeous, what luck.

Thanks Didier... yeah, so lucky to see them, and it's always a pleasure to know the lion population is doing well in this reserve.

Hello,

It’s always such a joy to discover a beautiful family of very young lions. We can feel their curiosity toward us, with their bright, wide-open "marbles" (eyes). So sad to hear that the Grevy’s zebra population is dwindling like this.

Greetings.

...

Hello everyone, and thanks Alain,

Yes, it’s sad about the Grevy’s zebras, and I think reticulated giraffes are also facing a sharp decline in their numbers.

We’re still in Samburu, among the lions.

The next morning, near the river, we spotted a pride of lions that had just quenched their thirst. They were heading back toward the center of the reserve through the bushes, and we could only catch glimpses of them. Impossible to tell exactly how many there were:

A few more images from Samburu:

Beisa oryx:



Playful dwarf mongooses in their termite mound:



Vervet monkeys—we’re so used to living near them at camp that we don’t always think to photograph them:



A warthog—we didn’t come across many this time... I think the lions keep their population in check.



A red-headed barbet:





A white-throated bee-eater:



The lilac-breasted roller, always present in Samburu:



Grey-winged lapwing:



The hoopoe

Hi everyone,

Here are the main sightings we had during these three days in Samburu.

I also want to tell you about our missed encounters because on safari, it’s pretty common, and frustration is part of the game....

In this photo, Wilson, the camp’s cook and manager, is explaining where he saw a male leopard:



Well, I can tell you that despite searching for several hours, we never found that one. I feel like I know every tree and bush in the area by now.....

We also spent some time with our friend Kelvin Lemantaan, the owner of Samburu Riverside Camp. He’s a county council member and gives us the latest news: the region is calmer, with less violence between different communities, but there’s still a lot of progress to be made in health, education, and youth employment...... He also shares his disappointment at seeing the level of corruption among many of his colleagues. The money received doesn’t always go toward local development but sometimes funds vacations in Dubai or elsewhere..... There’s also little chance of reconciliation between the counties of Isiolo (Buffalo Springs - Shaba) and Maralal (Samburu), so no possibility of getting a single entry ticket to move freely between the different reserves.....

At the end of the day, he joins us on a track and points Felix toward Westgate. In this area, a small pack of wild dogs (African painted dogs) has been spotted several times in recent days. This time, there’s a good chance we’ll see them for the first time in Samburu—these "famous dogs."

Despite searching with four pairs of highly motivated eyes: nothing. This long-awaited encounter still isn’t happening this time...... we’ll just have to come back [;]

Hi Sylvie,

On safaris, saving time means having good information is REALLY important, but in the end, I’m afraid LUCK remains the key factor in making great discoveries. Several times (including in June 2024 in Tanzania, in Selous), we had plenty of consistent info about a leopard too, and all we saw were its tracks... For the African wild dogs, we searched with daily updates for several days, and even 30 minutes before taking the bush plane... no luck. Leopards know how to hide, and painted dogs can cover long distances in an hour...

That’s the glorious uncertainty of a safari...!!

A beautiful image of a Lilac-breasted Roller at L.B. [:)]

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Thanks Alain ...... that roller is always photogenic [;)]

After these 3 nights in the reserve, we settled a few kilometers away at our friend Martine Beauchemin’s place in Archers Post at Dik Dik Lodge for 2 nights.





The welcoming committee consists of Mocha and Luna (the mother and daughter). The younger one got used to coming into the house when she was little. It’s hard to make her understand she’s now better off in the garden.





The garden overlooks the Shaba Reserve.



From Dik Dik Lodge, it’s easy to visit one of the three nearby reserves (Samburu - Buffalo Springs - Shaba). We wanted to rest, so we chose to only go to the elephant sanctuary https://www.reteti.org/.

For those who might be interested, here’s some info about the Reteti site.

You need to book your visit—only the 11:30 AM feeding slot is available for tourists not staying at Sarara or Reteti House. The entry fee is $35. To get there from Archers Post takes about 1 hour 15 minutes. The first part of the road is very good and passes near Mount Ololokwe. Be sure not to forget your passport, as there’s always an anti-terrorism police checkpoint on this road (never in the same place). They’re intimidating because they wear masks to avoid being recognized, but they’re actually quite friendly. The last part of the journey is a pretty rough track (rocks - sand) that goes through small manyattas. We passed lots of young shepherds asking for water....

The visit is in two parts: -First, accompanied by one of the sanctuary’s caretakers, you see an exhibit explaining the work done at the center. Currently, the milk given to the elephant calves is goat’s milk, which the center buys from local women in the community. The goal is to gradually return the orphans to the wild. -Then, you watch the elephants being fed. There are about thirty of them. All the sanctuary staff are part of the Samburu community.

They also take in other orphaned animals: giraffes, zebras, gerenuks....

It’s true that visiting Reteti is a nice (and interesting) break between two safaris [:)] ... but the road is definitely longer than you’d think just looking at the kilometers .

It's true that visiting Reteti is a pleasant (and interesting) break between two safaris [:)] ... but the road is actually longer than you might think based on the kilometers .

Hello everyone,

Thanks Muriel, yes Reteti is an interesting visit.

A few more pictures:





One of the elephants is named Long'uro, our friend Martine sponsors him. He was found in a well, his trunk had been "nibbled" by hyenas [:/]. He apparently manages to eat anyway, the other elephants help him, but he’ll probably never be able to return to the wild like his buddies....





For those who’d like to learn a few Samburu words before their trip:



After the visit, we went for a picnic at Elephant Rock. A place I’ve already mentioned in a previous travel journal. (page 10) https://voyageforum.com/v.f?do=post_view_flat;post=9781073;page=10;search_string=kenya%20hors%20des%20sentiers%20battus;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;mh=20;





In the evening, we went to say hi to our friend Angelo Lemmy and have a drink at Lion’s Cave Camp, which is just a few minutes’ walk from Dik Dik Lodge. The view has really changed since our last visit in November 2023 during the heavy floods.....

Hello everyone,

Today we’re heading to Meru National Park for our next stop—four nights there. From Samburu, it’s about a 2.5-hour drive on a pretty good road. Martine is joining us at https://ikwetasafaricamp.com/ to share these next few days of safari with us. Like us, she loves this park—it’s so quiet and "the hidden gem of Kenya." We’re happy to see the camp’s super welcoming team again and check out all the new improvements they’ve made. There’s more and more vegetation now, which keeps things cool and really nice. During our stay, we’ll pretty much have the whole camp to ourselves.







Before entering the park, we say hi to the local kids on their way to school:



But now, let’s go explore the nearby park and its varied landscapes (kind of a mix of Samburu and Tsavo, with lots of waterways).

A jackal



Here, you can see lots of reticulated giraffes.









Buffaloes are also really common, especially in the swampy areas.

We had the same one!



I’ve said it before, we really loved this park (where we saw way more animals than in Samburu, even though we didn’t spot any big cats there).

Ah, I see, Muriel, we have some shared memories [;)]

It's true that over the years, the animal population in Meru has been growing. Too bad about the big cats for you—every time we've gone, we've managed to spot lions and once even a leopard. The lion population is also increasing: according to the latest census, I think there are around 90, not counting the cubs.

To feed them, more buffalo:











There are also some beautiful herds of zebras, sometimes with a few Grévy’s (this one was alone among Grant’s zebras).







In Meru, the tracks can be as red as in Tsavo:



Another waterbuck.

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A bit surprising, and amusing, this mix between Grevy’s zebras and Burchell’s zebras... [:)]

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A bit surprising, and amusing, this mix between Z. Grevy and Z. Burcchell ...[:)]

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Hello everyone,

Yes, Alain, it’s not the first time we’ve seen this in Meru. A few years ago, we came across scientists who came specifically to look for Grévys within the park.

We’ve also had encounters with the shy little kudus, which are becoming more and more present.







Meru is also a place where you can observe rhinos in the sanctuary. It’s an open space for all animals—only the rhinos can’t cross the barriers or posts:



Rangers are there to ensure their safety day and night:

Sylvie, do you know if they could interbreed (Grevy’s and Grant’s zebras)?

Do you know if they can interbreed (Grevy’s and Grant’s zebras)?

I think so, Muriel, since they’re the same species. It’s just differences between subspecies...

Happy start to the week, everyone!

We're continuing our discovery of Meru NP, which is also a fantastic destination for bird lovers:

Like in Tsavo, the scarlet bee-eater is around this season. In the first photo, it's keeping company with a lilac-breasted roller:











An African pygmy falcon



The lilac-breasted roller is still very much around





White-throated bee-eaters:

Wow! The scarlet bee-eater is amazing! 😍 I’ve never seen one before 🥰

Hi Girls,

It's always nice to have two birds of different species next to each other in the same picture. On the other hand, I’ll admit I’m a bit skeptical about the Roller (next to the Bee-eater, etc.), with its purple cheeks and those two long feathers...

No matter, they’re beautiful.

Photo 4 in this Bee-eater series (and the pose in photo 5) looks *terrifyingly* like the offering, prelude to mating...!!

Thanks for the whole series.

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Wow! The scarlet bee-eater is amazing...😍 I’ve never seen one before 😮

Thanks Isabelle, yeah they’re really stunning. In Kenya, they’re most abundant in February, especially in Tsavo but also in Meru.

It's always nice to have two birds of different species next to each other in the same shot. However, I must admit my skepticism about the Roller (neighbor of the Bee-eater, etc.), with its purple cheeks and those two long feathers...

....

Thanks, Alain, for keeping an eye on the identifications. I hadn’t looked closely enough at that one. I’ll fix it. It’s true that this year we saw as many European Rollers as Long-tailed Rollers in Tsavo and Meru.

Photo 4 in this Bee-eater series (and the pose in photo 5) looks *incredibly* like the offering, prelude to mating...!!

....

Yeah, those two seemed really lovey-dovey [;)]

Hi everyone,

We’re still in Meru NP—still lots of birds, but... the lions are arriving soon....

Here’s the European roller:



An African harrier-hawk:



A pied kingfisher and a grey-headed kingfisher:





A hamerkop:



A gathering of cattle egrets:







A tawny eagle:



Some martial eagles:

This snake was about to devour this little rodent. It must have already injected its venom because the prey wasn’t very active.....



A chase among a group of male impalas:





During this trip, we were able to observe one of the large lion prides up close on two occasions. This one consists of several lionesses and their cubs. We counted 16 individuals.







Everyone’s getting up.



But a few photos of the stragglers are still possible:

The next day we find the same big lion family in the marsh area:

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It’s clear he’s flirting with you, that teen in the last pic...!! [;)]

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Wow! All these lions in Meru! What luck! 🤩

For sure! I'm gonna complain to Felix because we didn't see a single one in Meru

For sure! I’m gonna complain to Felix because we didn’t see a single one in Meru

Yeah, you’re right, some people are lucky 😤 We only saw one on the last night 😢

For sure! I’m gonna complain to Felix because we didn’t see a single one in Meru

Yeah, you’re right, some people are lucky 😤 We only saw one on the last night 😢

Oh sorry, ladies, but for a complaint I think there’s a form to fill out in triplicate and hand-deliver to Felix [;)]

But by the way, which one of you two saw a leopard in Meru in a small ruined building near a landing strip? Felix talks about it often. We always stop by to take a look, but there’s never anything there [:(]

It's not me! (Alas ) Isabelle then?

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AFRICA (especially on safaris, but not only) is UNPREDICTABLE ... !!

On safari, you have to go with the mindset of accepting what comes your way—and what you won’t see ... It’s "Nature" that decides what it wants to show us (and what the guide will be able to spot) !!

Luck and the time spent in a reserve are key factors for making amazing discoveries.

That’s just my opinion.

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For sure! I’m gonna complain to Felix because we didn’t see a single one in Meru

Yeah, you’re right, some people are lucky 😒 We only saw one on the last night 😢

Oh sorry, ladies, but for a complaint I think there’s a form to fill out in triplicate and hand-deliver to Felix ;)

Yep, I’ll definitely fill it out and I’ll be happy to bring it to him 😏

But actually, which one of you saw a leopard in Meru in that little ruined building near a landing strip? Felix mentions it all the time. We always stop by to take a look but there’s never anything there :(

Wasn’t me either... what a tease, that Felix!

...

AFRICA (especially on safaris, but not only) is UNPREDICTABLE ... !!

On safari, you have to leave accepting in advance what comes your way, and ... what you won’t see ... It’s "Nature" that decides what it wants to show us (and what the guide will be able to spot) !!

Luck and the time spent in a reserve are key factors for making great discoveries.

That’s just my opinion.

...

Yes, Alain, I completely agree, and in Africa, it’s much easier to see animals than in Europe, where they’re hunted. But what a joy when they deign to pass nearby, and such a wonderful reward after waiting hours for a possible sighting!

Hello everyone,

Isabelle and Muriel, I was so sure I’d seen that leopard with one of you two—but no... Guess I’ll have to keep investigating next time... [;)]

Of course, "Africa is unpredictable," and we all know that’s part of the adventure. But I agree with Isabelle—it’s way easier to come back with great shots from a safari than to do wildlife photography in France. To spot our local wildlife, you need a lot more strategy and patience.

We’re about to leave Meru NP, but first, some "atmosphere" shots:

Sunrise



Sunset



For those who know the story of the Adamsons and Elsa the lioness from *Born Free*, here’s the grave of Pippa the cheetah, whom Joy Adamson studied for 4½ years in Meru in the late 1960s.



Breakfast—a moment everyone enjoys, and a chance to soak in the surrounding nature:







Newly renovated, the cozy picnic spot near the hippo pool:

... Classic, but a really beautiful sunrise shot.

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The hippos are still faithfully at their post! [;)]

... Classic, but a really beautiful sunrise shot.

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Thanks Alain—I’ll pass the compliment on to Ben!

The hippos are still on duty! [;)]

Hi Muriel, yes, the neighbors are pretty nice for breakfast [:)]

With a bit of regret, we’re leaving Meru, which has become one of our favorite spots in Kenya over the years. We love that "alone in the world" feeling in the middle of nature. But I should probably stop talking about it if we want to keep this tranquility going… [;)]

On the road, there are always beautiful fruit and vegetable stalls:



We stopped for lunch at a friendly restaurant serving "nyama choma"—grilled meats in Swahili.



For this trip, we decided to stop in Nanyuki. It’s a small town we really like, where we often stop to do some shopping.

Following our friend Martine’s advice, we stayed at the "Le Rustique" hotel. The rooms are cozy, and the restaurant is excellent. https://lerustique.co.ke/



After much hesitation, we finally decided to visit the "Mount Kenya Animal Orphanage." https://mountkenyawildlifeconservancy.org/animal-orphanage#planAVisit.

We’re not big fans of zoos, and we were worried about seeing wild animals kept in poor conditions… but we’re following their project to reintroduce bongos—a critically endangered antelope living in the Mount Kenya and Aberdare regions—and we were curious to see the place.



During the visit, we were accompanied by one of the keepers, who gave us explanations about each of the orphanage’s residents. The goal for most of them is to return to the wild when possible.

At the site, there was only one bongo—the others are on Mount Kenya and being gradually reintroduced. He’s very friendly and clever: he knows how to open the gate to wander into the big cats’ area, where he’s not supposed to go…





He seems to get along well with the little rescued giraffe, who was only two months old.





This tortoise is 120 years old, I think.



We didn’t take many photos because we were focused on our guide’s explanations. Often, the animals are reported to them by locals. For example, a hyena was found in a school… it was better to move it away…

There’s also a leopard with only three legs. He’s in a large enclosure with a tree, and neither of us could spot him, even though the ranger tried to point out where he was hiding… That one will never be able to return to the wild.

There was also a baby serval, just a few days old.

A young blind lioness—we recently learned she was able to have surgery (she had glaucoma and corneal ulcers) and has regained 75% of her vision.

There are also many monkeys, ostriches, buffaloes, cheetahs… and, surprisingly, llamas…

We found the visit interesting. The enclosures are well-designed, and each animal has its own story and project. This place seems to play an important role in the increasingly frequent human-animal conflicts. It provides a solution when an animal is found or gets too close to human settlements.

Plus, for those who know Felix, he told us that this is probably where his passion for wildlife began. As a child, he lived in Nanyuki, and his school regularly visited the Mount Kenya Conservancy…

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"Hippos still holding down the fort! [;)] ...yeah, for the breakfast crowd, they’re pretty cool neighbors [:)]"

... especially with the smells they give off!!! .....

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Well, honestly, none of us noticed any particular smell at this spot...... The hippos are few, the water is quite deep, and there’s a current that must wash away their waste....... I do remember other hippo pools in Tanzania, though, where the smell was unbearable....

We’re reaching the final leg of this trip: Aberdare National Park. This will be our 5th visit to the park, and this time we’ve chosen to stay at "The Ark" for 2 nights (there were some great deals on Booking). https://thearkkenya.com/the-ark/.

On previous visits, we stayed twice at the Fishing Lodge (a KWS rental) in Sandai—https://www.africanfootprints.de/en/.—and once at Cedar Retreat https://cedarretreatkenya.com/welcome (a stunning spot for hiking, but too far out for game drives).

When you stay at "The Ark," there’s a must-do stop at the Aberdare Country Club for lunch. It’s a place that feels like it’s straight out of the British colonial era... The food is excellent, and there’s a huge park with tame animals. Shuttles take non-motorized guests up to the lodge in the park.







Here’s the entrance to the national park:





The area is quite hilly—this family waved at us the whole way up:



Just before arriving at the lodge, a hyena was resting in a hole by the side of the track.



The Ark is designed like a multi-story ship. The rooms are small but perfectly fine. We loved the first evening because there were hardly any other guests in the restaurant—though the second night, several noisy groups arrived... a completely different vibe! Nothing like the Fishing Lodge, but it’s less cold [;)]

I was in the Aberdares (and stayed at The Ark) last March—it was my first time in this national park, and I have very mixed feelings. I’m really looking forward to the rest of your story to see what you thought of your visit!

Hi there,

I first visited and discovered this place about thirty years ago, during our first trip and safari in Africa. It feels a lot more luxurious now than when we were there (which makes sense, of course). It even "amused" us back then...!!

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I was in the Aberdares (and stayed at The Ark) last March—it was my first time in this national park, and I have very mixed feelings. I’m really looking forward to the rest of your story to see what you thought of your visit.

Sorry for the late reply—some difficult life circumstances kept me away from the forum for a while.

About Aberdare National Park: we love this park, but that’s because we’ve had different experiences than the one we had this year at "The Ark."

In 2013 and 2018, we stayed in self-catering at the "Fishing Lodge," a chalet rented through KWS. It’s really the place to choose if you want a more complete and authentic experience of the park. We were able to enjoy a memorable trout-fishing experience, among other things...

Of course, you can’t compare this park to the Maasai Mara in terms of wildlife sightings. But it’s worth going to discover landscapes and an atmosphere you wouldn’t expect in East Africa—moorlands like Scotland, beautiful waterfalls... and to feel the wild nature where animals are hard to approach.

Here’s a link to a travel journal with more details about this park: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?do=post_view_flat;post=9781073;page=1;search_string=kenya;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;mh=20;

This year, the weather was mixed, with a full day of rain that limited our exploration. Still, we had some great sightings, especially with a large elephant family (photos coming soon).

Hi there, I stayed at "The Ark" in 2023. I’ll admit, I didn’t really like the lodge—it felt a bit like a tourist factory to me. The rooms were outdated, but the buffet had some good food options. I didn’t get the point of wasting time checking in at another property...

On the other hand, I *loved* the Aberdares. We only saw two other vehicles during a full-day safari. The landscapes are incredible, and the forest is totally different from anything else you’ll see. The animals are more "skittish," but we had some amazing sightings (elephants, a fearless leopard, and a serval, among others).

Next time, I’ll try to find a different place to stay.

Hi, On the other hand, I loved the Aberdares—we only came across two vehicles during a full day on safari. The landscapes are incredible, a forest totally different from what you find elsewhere. The animals are more "skittish," but we had some amazing encounters (elephants, a fearless leopard, and a serval, among others). I’ll try to find another place to stay next time.

Totally agree with Didier. Aberdare and Meru are probably the two least crowded parks in Kenya. They offer a different kind of safari experience with wilder nature.

Photos of the Aberdares in January 2025:



Some Colobus monkeys:





An elephant family in the area called Salient:

Thanks for your reply. Indeed, my mixed feelings about our stay in Aberdare are mainly because of The Ark, which we didn’t enjoy to the point that it ruined our overall impression of the park. Still, I should be happy since we got to see hylochoerus (giant forest hogs) at leisure and, most importantly, sunis, which are extremely hard or rare to spot (only one previous sighting in southern Tanzania). Even the colobus guerezas, black mongooses, and servals were particularly cooperative!

While I’m at it, I’d like to point out a mistake regarding the "crested" eagle featured in your post #74. It’s actually the *Ayres's hawk-eagle*—the crested eagle is only found in a few Asian countries.

Sorry for this late reply, but sad life circumstances kept me away from this forum for a while.

Hi Sylvie,

We’re truly sorry too about the "life circumstances" that have affected you. Getting back to your travel journal on this forum will be a little escape, letting you take your mind off things for a bit. Thanks for coming back to us.

Lovely herd of "colorful" elephants in that clearing.

Kind regards,

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