Off to explore Jordan!
FR

Translated into English.

XE Xeta Veteran ·
Ben, here are some underwater photos 😎 Just had to be patient 🙂 Can't wait for tomorrow at 5:30 PM for the rest!

Yeah, patience was key... Next up, we're heading back to desert landscapes...😉

With great pleasure! It's an amazing destination!
BI Bibouns51 Globetrotter ·
Ben, here are some underwater photos 😎 Just had to be patient 🙂 Can't wait for tomorrow at 5:30 PM for the rest!

Yeah, patience was key... Next up, we're heading back to desert landscapes...😉

With great pleasure! It's an amazing destination!

Yes, it's in my top 3 destinations!
http://onpartenvadrouille.over-blog.com Carnets de route "décalés" : Jordanie, Balkans, Thaïlande, ouest américain, Birmanie, Pérou, Cambodge, ...
XE Xeta Veteran ·
Ben here are some underwater photos 😎 Just had to be patient 🙂 Can't wait for tomorrow at 5:30 PM for the rest!

Yeah, patience was key... Next up, we're heading back to desert landscapes...😉

With great pleasure! It's an amazing destination!

Yes, it's in my top 3 destinations!

You've probably already mentioned it, but what's your top 3?
RJ Rjulie95 Globetrotter ·
I already know the number one spot, the US West Coast 😏
"Je suis africain, non pas parce que je suis né en Afrique, mais parce que l'Afrique est née en moi." Kwame Nkrumah.

"J'ai appris que le courage n'est pas l'absence de peur, mais la capacité de la vaincre." Nelson Mandela

https://www.en-voyages.fr
RO Rouquine38 Globetrotter ·
I already know the top 1, the American West

Maybe, but I'm not sure because when you read their travel journals... all the destinations are in their top 3 so they must have at least a #1, #1b, #1c... 😉
"Voyager est un triple plaisir : l'attente, l'éblouissement et le souvenir." Ilka Chase
BI Bibouns51 Globetrotter ·
I already know the #1 spot, the US West Coast 😏

YES! Open secret!!! 😏
http://onpartenvadrouille.over-blog.com Carnets de route "décalés" : Jordanie, Balkans, Thaïlande, ouest américain, Birmanie, Pérou, Cambodge, ...
BI Bibouns51 Globetrotter ·
Ben, here are some underwater photos 😎 Just had to be patient 🙂 Can't wait for tomorrow at 5:30 PM for the rest!

Yeah, patience was key... Next up, we're heading back to desert landscapes...😉

With great pleasure! It's an amazing destination!

Yes, it's in my top 3 destinations!

I'm sure you've mentioned it before, but what's your top 3?

If I really have to pick 3, I'd say the American West, of course. Then Burma, and Jordan (tied with the Peru/Bolivia/Chile trip)... But it's tough because there are so many others I've loved...
http://onpartenvadrouille.over-blog.com Carnets de route "décalés" : Jordanie, Balkans, Thaïlande, ouest américain, Birmanie, Pérou, Cambodge, ...
BI Bibouns51 Globetrotter ·
Number 1: American Northwest Number 1b: American West Number 1c: American Southwest 😏😏😏
http://onpartenvadrouille.over-blog.com Carnets de route "décalés" : Jordanie, Balkans, Thaïlande, ouest américain, Birmanie, Pérou, Cambodge, ...
SW Swimmer Veteran ·
I'm behind on reading your story from yesterday, but I figure it's no big deal since I'll be taking in even more of it. And sure enough, it starts off pretty great with one of those desert adventures you're so good at sharing 😎, and then...

And then I don’t know why you switch to a rerun of an old Commander Cousteau show. 😮

I didn’t get it. Huge concept though!!!

😉
Pascal
MA Masterpo Globetrotter ·
Another one of those red-hat adventures...
BI Bibouns51 Globetrotter ·
November 1st - On the road again, ... again!

Usually, on Mondays when I get to work and someone asks me "How’s it going?", I shoot back "Meh, just another Monday!" But today, if you’re kind enough to ask, I can’t exactly say that! As Claude François sang, "Monday in the sun is something we’ll never have!" Except here—well, we’ve got it! And on top of that, today’s a public holiday—All Saints’ Day. Happy All Saints’ Day, everyone! But All Saints’ in Jordan is a bit like Halloween in Zimbabwe—everyone’s happily giving it zero thought!

Alright, enough philosophical musings—let’s get to today! Our mission, should we choose to accept it, is to head back north and spend pretty much the whole blessed day on the road... Well, almost! Don’t get me wrong, I’ve still planned a few quick *click-clack Kodak* stops to air out the brain cells... But before that, how can we leave the Red Sea without taking one last dip? Shh, I’m being sneaky this time—because the head I dipped? Yeah, I kept it as a souvenir... Okay, I’ll leave...

Extra round! Same players, play again: Come on, girls, let’s slip back into our masks and snorkels one last time—here we go again! And after a few fin strokes, bam, I come face-to-face with a massive turtle who clearly isn’t a fan of my mug since she bolts in a flash... Helicopter mode engaged, I switch to Alain Bernard at the Olympics and start sprinting like crazy in her wake! I’m not swimming—I’m flying! You should’ve seen the turtle’s face when she saw me catch up! Okay, fine, I’ll stop lying to you. Truth is, I was more like Michel Blanc in *Les Bronzés*—gasping for air just to catch a glimpse of her shell... The turtle was way faster than the hare. Too bad for Chloé, who was close by—she missed the show. It all came down to a hair’s breadth.

Alright, let’s not just sit here waiting for the wave to come to us! It’s time to say goodbye to everyone and hop back on our trusty steed, Mitsu, who’s got the tough job of swallowing up the entire drive back to the capital. All aboard, travelers—the caterpillar isn’t always on time... We came down via the King’s Highway, and now we’re heading back up via the Desert Highway. And the Desert Highway? Well, it’s monotonous. No need to wiggle your butt—it’s a straight shot! And it’s rockier than Garou’s voice and flatter than Carla Bruni Sarkozy’s. Oh boy, I’m gonna have problems!... We drive like this for over three hours straight. Not even a smoke break for Chloé or a bathroom stop for who-knows-who... Speaking of which, it reminds me that our little Sandrine is on the mend... The traveler’s diarrhea I recommended to the girls to lose a kilo or two is officially over. Sandrine even thanked me for the tip! Though, more seriously, she mostly praised me for booking a room with private bathrooms...

Once we’re off the Desert Highway, we need to find our way to Kerak, where I’ve planned a stop. And now, all you folks who criticize French road signs—own up and go stand in the corner with your hands behind your head... Because here? It’s chaos! First, signs are few and far between, and second, when you’re lucky enough to spot one, it’s plastered with posters of Mohammed, Ali, or Youssouf running in the next local election. Yet on our map, it looks simple—there’s only one road... But on the ground, it’s like we’re in Los Angeles—minus the girls in red bikinis! Roads are going every which way! And with a co-pilot team of three girls and their *ahem* sense of direction, we could’ve ended up in a ditch just for fun! But since there’s still a man on board, we manage to get our bearings and finally spot Kerak Fortress in our camera’s viewfinder... And let me tell you right now—visually, Kerak Castle is way closer to a WWII bunker than Chambord Castle! As for the town, it’s clear Mr. Leroy Merlin hasn’t set up shop here... The architectural style in vogue? Exposed cinder blocks and rebar everywhere. In other words, charm-wise—you can forget it...

But before the visit, it’s time to raise an elbow and a fork—if we can find one. We settle into a little hole-in-the-wall (no, not the little guy with the yellow car—that’s *Oui-Oui*). We order something to refresh ourselves. A little drink is nice, but just a little! Because, my friend of fancy appetizers and canapés, you’d better hope your digestive system hasn’t seen the state of the kitchen facing the street. We’re not usually picky, but here? Poor Mr. Clean must’ve been kicked out of this place a long time ago—it’s not even possible! So, what do we do? Are we here to eat or to call the health inspectors? Because honestly, we’re not risking traveler’s diarrhea here—we’re risking the next Europe Assistance flight! The verdict: "Sir, your application has caught our attention. However, we regret to inform you that we will not be proceeding with your order..." So, the little guy tries to rip us off like a pro, charging an outrageous price for the four cans we quickly downed. But watch out—this young monkey has grown into an old one, and you can’t pull a fast one on us anymore! We’ll pay the usual rate, and that’s that! We end up at a supermarket that’s anything but *super*—except for the owner, who insists we taste every product in his store. At this rate, this meal’s gonna be cheaper than expected... At checkout, we ask if he sells bread... Once again, the kindness of Jordanians shines. Since he doesn’t sell any, he calls over a little kid from the street who runs off to fetch us some flatbread from who-knows-where. Now *that’s* what I call customer satisfaction!

Back on the street, I overhear a French couple who bravely tried their luck at *Kings*, a restaurant just as sketchy as ours. I’ll spare you the details and the gastric symphony, but let’s just say that compared to what they were saying, they’ll be new customers of *triple-thickness* Moltonel by tonight! Alright, off to the castle, where buses are parked like it’s a dealership...

Built by the Crusaders, this fortress has a few juicy little anecdotes—like this one: Renauld de Châtillon, one of the fortress’s leaders, got his kicks torturing prisoners and coming up with the most *fun* ways to finish them off. In the end, he’d toss them off the 400-meter-high walls with a wooden box on their heads so they wouldn’t pass out before hitting the ground... Pretty sadistic, right? No doubt about it—people knew how to have fun back then! Death, wars, torture... All for religion... Personally, I’m an atheist—thank God! As for the visit, no wide-eyed wonder or drooling here... Let’s just say if this fortress were in Le Havre, I’d tell you it’s really impressive... But after Petra and Wadi Rum, I’ll admit it leaves a bit of a... "now, I need more to be wowed" aftertaste. Am I sounding like a spoiled kid? No, seriously—if it’s on your way and you’re retired, it’d be a crime not to stop... But if you’ve got better things to do, keep moving—you can visit Le Havre when you get back to France!







That’s actually what we’re doing right now (hitting the road, not visiting Le Havre), because Kerak hasn’t had a makeover in two hours, and we’ve got no more reasons to dirty our soles here. Plus, if I don’t want my chances of seeing Wadi Mujib in daylight to melt like snow in a microwave, we’d better get Mitsu purring! Like a little beast climbing, climbing... we devour the kilometers, compass pointed due north. And of course, it wouldn’t be fun if there wasn’t a catch... Round two of the sign fiasco... and because it’s us, they’ve thrown in a detour that I’d quickly describe as having a life of debauchery with multiple paid partners! With that, we end up lost who-knows-where on a road that, after a few kilometers, doesn’t even have a name anymore... We needed this like we needed a good case of syphilis! All this to say we obviously arrived at the edge of Wadi Mujib completely last-minute, the day starting to get its butt kicked by night... I’ll hurry and give you the lowdown on what there is to see here: Nicknamed the "Grand Canyon of Jordan," this kilometer-deep, four-kilometer-wide rift splits Jordan in two. To cross it, you have to go down and then back up the 18-kilometer winding road... If you’ve been following from the start, we took a dip in the narrowest part of this canyon at the beginning of the trip... And when you get to the top, Wadi Mujib is so impressive and vast that photos can’t capture the beauty of the place—you’ll just have to take my word for it! But hey, I’ll still throw in a couple I just developed in my basement...







Our road trip wraps up around 7 PM when we land at the airport! No need to start sniffling—even if it’s starting to smell like the end, this travel journal still has a few pages left to read! We’re only here to return our Mitsu to its owner. The rest of the trip will be with local transport... The problem? At 7:30 PM, no one... 8 PM, still no one... Don’t pull the time-zone trick on me again! Seeing us take root, a kind Jordanian approaches and naturally offers to call the agency for us... Apparently, the guy we’re supposed to meet had a taxi accident and won’t arrive until 8:30 PM. Lucky we didn’t have a flight to catch! Once there, the guy apologizes and doesn’t make a fuss about the check-out, which takes two minutes tops. For the two flat tires, we agree on 10 dinars in compensation, which he pockets right away since he offers to drive us to our hotel for the same amount—including a nighttime city tour. Deal! We jump back into Mitsu, who plunges into Amman’s traffic...

We arrive at our destination, happy as can be, right in front of the Palace Hotel. And you’re thinking: "For their last night, they splurged and booked a palace!" Well, I’m writing this journal from my hotel bed... Oh, my *palace* bed, sorry... Actually, the most "palace-like" thing about the Palace Hotel is its name! The place has the charm of a reform school, but the main thing is it’s clean and well-located... Now, the last mission of the day is to find kebab for our stomachs—comfort food for our feet! For this, I’d spotted a local institution in the Lonely Planet: Hashem Restaurant! The result? We leave with bellies swollen like a five-month-pregnant woman, all for 6 dinars for four of us! Not even the price of a McDonald’s for one in France... And on top of that, it was so good I’ll have to confess this gluttony sin one day or another! As for Amman, the first impression is pretty positive—contrary to everything I’d read here and there. But I’ll tell you more tomorrow! After all, tomorrow is another adventure...
http://onpartenvadrouille.over-blog.com Carnets de route "décalés" : Jordanie, Balkans, Thaïlande, ouest américain, Birmanie, Pérou, Cambodge, ...
BI Bibouns51 Globetrotter ·
Running late on reading your story from yesterday, but I figure it's no big deal since I'm gonna get an eyeful anyway. And sure enough, it starts off pretty great with one of those desert adventures you're so good at sharing 😎, and then...

And then I don't know why you switch to a rerun of an old Commander Cousteau show. 😮

Didn't get it. Huge concept though!!!

😉

Gotta mix things up and break the monotony... 😎 And we're getting closer to the end... 🙁
http://onpartenvadrouille.over-blog.com Carnets de route "décalés" : Jordanie, Balkans, Thaïlande, ouest américain, Birmanie, Pérou, Cambodge, ...
XE Xeta Veteran ·
Wow, here are some underwater photos 😎 Just had to be patient 🙂 Can't wait for tomorrow at 5:30 PM for the rest!

Yeah, patience was key... For the next part, it'll be back to desert landscapes...😉

With great pleasure! It's an amazing destination!

Yes, it's in my top 3 destinations!

I'm sure you've mentioned it before, but what's your top 3?

If I really have to pick 3, I'd say the American West, of course. Then Burma, and Jordan (tied with the Peru/Bolivia/Chile trip)... But it's tough because there are so many others I've loved...

I agree with the American West! You've got to go to Namibia 😉
XE Xeta Veteran ·
I’ll be picky, but we didn’t get to see as much as the previous days! Still, it’s not bad at all 😉
BI Bibouns51 Globetrotter ·
I’ll be picky, but we didn’t see as much as the previous days! Still, it wasn’t bad at all 😉

True... A transition day ![;]
http://onpartenvadrouille.over-blog.com Carnets de route "décalés" : Jordanie, Balkans, Thaïlande, ouest américain, Birmanie, Pérou, Cambodge, ...
SW Swimmer Veteran ·
I’ll be picky, but we didn’t see as much today as the previous days! Still, it wasn’t bad 😉

True... A transition day !😉

Well, I really enjoyed this day. I learned some things, like how they don’t celebrate Halloween in Zimbabwe, a good bout of traveler’s diarrhea is a great alternative to gastric band surgery, and you won’t find a Leroy Merlin store in Kerak. Not to mention my growing urge to visit Le Havre since reading this travel journal!

And what about that refreshing anecdote about the charming customs that used to take place at Kerak Castle. You don’t see that kind of thing much these days. That’s when you realize traditions are fading everywhere.
Pascal
BI Bibouns51 Globetrotter ·
I’ll be picky, but we didn’t feast our eyes as much as the previous days! Still, it wasn’t bad at all 😉

True... A transition day !😉

Well, I really enjoyed this day. I learned some things, like how they don’t celebrate Halloween in Zimbabwe, how a good bout of traveler’s diarrhea is a great alternative to gastric band surgery, or that you won’t find a Leroy Merlin in Kerak. Not to mention my growing urge to visit Le Havre since reading this travel journal!

And what about that refreshing anecdote about the charming customs once practiced at Kerak Castle? You don’t see that kind of thing much these days. That’s when you realize traditions are fading everywhere.

😏😏😏 Le Havre and Eve Angeli are my muses... 😎
http://onpartenvadrouille.over-blog.com Carnets de route "décalés" : Jordanie, Balkans, Thaïlande, ouest américain, Birmanie, Pérou, Cambodge, ...
SW Swimmer Veteran ·
Le Havre and Eve Angeli are my muses... 😎

It’s your call—no one’s judging you here on VF... [;]
Pascal
SW Swimmer Veteran ·
And then we're getting closer to the end... 🙁

Remind me where you're taking us next?
Pascal
BI Bibouns51 Globetrotter ·
And then we're getting closer to the end... 🙁

Remind me where you're taking us next?

Poll time! I’ve got two destinations up my sleeve to keep us going as long as Macron asks us to: - The Balkans (Slovenia / Croatia / Bosnia / Montenegro) by car from our place - Cambodia, which I did last year and whose travel journal is still being finalized... Votes are open!!!
http://onpartenvadrouille.over-blog.com Carnets de route "décalés" : Jordanie, Balkans, Thaïlande, ouest américain, Birmanie, Pérou, Cambodge, ...
RJ Rjulie95 Globetrotter ·
I’m voting for the Balkans and also for the Philippines even though they’re not on the list 😇
"Je suis africain, non pas parce que je suis né en Afrique, mais parce que l'Afrique est née en moi." Kwame Nkrumah.

"J'ai appris que le courage n'est pas l'absence de peur, mais la capacité de la vaincre." Nelson Mandela

https://www.en-voyages.fr
SW Swimmer Veteran ·
Like Régis, the Balkans. It’ll work out great because I’ve been eyeing Slovenia for a while now! 😎
Pascal
SW Swimmer Veteran ·
- Cambodia done last year and the travel journal is still being finalized... Voting is open!!!

And this will give you a bit more time to finish the Cambodia one, otherwise I’m afraid you’ll rush your report like usual. 😏
Pascal
BI Bibouns51 Globetrotter ·
I vote for the Balkans and also for the Philippines even though it's not on the list 😇

I’ll jump on the Philippines as soon as Cambodia is done! 😉
http://onpartenvadrouille.over-blog.com Carnets de route "décalés" : Jordanie, Balkans, Thaïlande, ouest américain, Birmanie, Pérou, Cambodge, ...
RO Rouquine38 Globetrotter ·
I really loved Cambodia, even though the Balkans are a destination that interests me in the distant future 😊. Because even for this summer, it can’t be our Plan B since those countries aren’t part of the Schengen Zone 😅.
"Voyager est un triple plaisir : l'attente, l'éblouissement et le souvenir." Ilka Chase
PH Phil31600 Regular ·
Hi there, my wife and I spent 3.5 weeks in Jordan from mid-September to mid-October.

I had bought 3-day Jordan Passes for Petra. By the third day, my wife was tired and stayed to rest at our hotel, so I was able to do a fourth day. Entry was free for a fourth consecutive day—you just have to ask. Personally, I’d love to go back because there’s one spot I didn’t get to see. On that fourth day, there were areas where I found myself completely alone...

Wadi Rum... 3 days and 3 nights in a bivouac. What a wonder! What a joy to fall asleep and wake up with the silence and the desert right before your eyes!

We even got a big storm with hail. White desert... ephemeral waterfalls... soaked but a beautiful memory. It was the first rain of the season, and our guides were dancing and laughing in the rain.

Our other stops: Madaba and the surrounding area, including the Dead Sea and a canyon, desert castles, Jerash, Um Qais (a favorite), Pella, Ajlun, Kerak and the surrounding area (2 wadis), Dana, Shobak and Little Petra, Amman.

We wrapped up our trip with 3.5 days in Jerusalem.

In 2019, over 1 million tourists visited Petra. But the site is so vast and beautiful... it’s a must-see.

Happy to share more info if needed. Ph.
Voyager ajoute à sa vie (proverbe berbère)
XE Xeta Veteran ·
And then we're getting closer to the end... 🙁

Remind me where you're taking us next?

Poll time! I’ve got two destinations up my sleeve to keep us going as long as Macron asks us to: - The Balkans (Slovenia / Croatia / Bosnia / Montenegro) starting from home by car - Cambodia, which I did last year and whose travel journal is still being finalized... Votes are open!!!

Balkans! Then Cambodia😛
SW Swimmer Veteran ·
I really loved Cambodia, even though the Balkans are a destination that interests me in the distant future 😊 Because even for this summer, it can’t be our Plan B since those countries aren’t part of the Schengen Zone 😅

Slovenia, though... just saying... ;)
Pascal
RO Rouquine38 Globetrotter ·
I really loved Cambodia, even though the Balkans are a destination that interests me in the distant future 😊 But even for this summer, it can’t be our Plan B since those countries aren’t part of the Schengen Area 😅

Slovenia, though...😉

Yes, exactly, but the ultimate goal is to go to Croatia, which I’d love to discover 😊
"Voyager est un triple plaisir : l'attente, l'éblouissement et le souvenir." Ilka Chase
BI Bibouns51 Globetrotter ·
Hello! My wife and I spent 3.5 weeks in Jordan from mid-September to mid-October. I had bought 3-day Jordan Passes for Petra. By the third day, my wife was tired and stayed to rest at our hotel, so I got to do a fourth day. Entry was free for a fourth consecutive day—you just have to ask. Personally, I’d go back because there’s one spot I didn’t get to see. On that fourth day, there were areas where I found myself completely alone... Wadi Rum... 3 days and 3 nights in a bivouac. What a wonder! What a pleasure to fall asleep and wake up with the silence and the desert right before your eyes! We even got a big storm with hail. White desert... ephemeral waterfalls... soaked but a beautiful memory. It was the first rain of the season, and our guides were dancing and laughing in the rain. Our other stops: Madaba and the surrounding area, including the Dead Sea and a canyon, desert castles, Jerash, Um Qais (a favorite), Pella, Ajlun, Kerak and the surrounding area (2 wadis), Dana, Shobak and Little Petra, Amman. We wrapped up our trip with 3.5 days in Jerusalem. This year, 2019, over 1 million tourists visited Petra. But the site is so vast and beautiful... absolutely unmissable. Happy to share more info if needed. Ph.

Hi Philippe, What’s that "spot" you didn’t get to see in Petra?
http://onpartenvadrouille.over-blog.com Carnets de route "décalés" : Jordanie, Balkans, Thaïlande, ouest américain, Birmanie, Pérou, Cambodge, ...
PH Phil31600 Regular ·
I didn't dare climb to the top of Jebel Haroun (Mount Aaron) alone to see Aaron's mausoleum (Moses' brother). It peaks at 1,396m, the highest summit in Petra. But the altitude and the 500m elevation gain were too much for a guy from Landes like me...

The white dome of the mausoleum is visible from the High Place of Sacrifice. A young trinket seller still encouraged me to go... while I was enjoying the view from up there...

Instead, after crossing the plateau and arriving via the wadi just behind the small museum (just before the first steps up to the Monastery), and on my way back toward the Roman temple, I headed to the Tomb of Sextius Florentinus (cutting through the Byzantine churches—well, what's left of them), then continued to other tombs farther away. To get there, a path carved into bicolor rock like white marble veined with red. And there I was, all alone, 2 or 3 km (or a bit more?) from the main path.

Alone again late in the morning in a small cluster of tombs just a few hundred meters from the Roman soldier's tomb (coming down from the High Place of Sacrifice).

Did you see the obelisks on the way up?

On my way back from this fourth day, I stopped one last time in front of the Treasury—just as stunning from the terrace as from above, whether from the viewpoint accessible by the stairs or the passage to the right of the terrace (another viewpoint, but less impressive than the one by the stairs). And in the Siq, I once more admired the caravan (well, what's left of it) carved into the rock, the Merou-headed rock, and had fun watching all those groups of tourists and pilgrims (since there were lots of French, Spanish, and Italian pilgrimage groups).

For Wadi Rum, I had booked a hot-air balloon ride. But no luck—the unpredictable weather (too much wind) didn’t allow the flight...

Leaving the village, just before taking the desert highway, we stopped at Wadi Rum station. A train from the Ottoman era, the model attacked by Sir Lawrence, was stationed there. A steam locomotive, wooden wagons... you could almost imagine it... just missing Lawrence’s attack with his coalition of Arab troops.

I didn’t mention it, but reading your posts is such a treat! Thanks for these great moments! Ph.
Voyager ajoute à sa vie (proverbe berbère)
BI Bibouns51 Globetrotter ·
November 2nd - There we gooooooo. It's over!

I suspect Ali the muezzin hid in the trunk of our Mitsubishi to follow us here… Because at five on the dot, he started up again, bellowing like a madman from the top of his mosque until we woke up. That’s it—I’ve had it up to my slippers! If he’s going to be like this, tomorrow I’m heading back to France! Anyway, no choice really—on my flight ticket, the guy wrote in big letters that it’s almost time to go back and grind away in the gray skies of our faraway land… But screw varicose veins! Let’s savor our last day to the fullest, and you, your last page to read!

This morning’s goal is to make a quick hop to Jerash by trying out the local buses. To get to the bus station, two options: the bad one, on foot, and the less bad one, by taxi. So, we’ll have to take on the brotherhood of taxi driver scammers that plagues the world. To arms, citizens, form your battalions! For this ride, I set myself a maximum price, and you can trust me—I’ll fight to the death to get it, even if it means negotiating for hours! Here’s my technique... “Hello, three dinars to the north station?” “No problem, it’ll be my pleasure…” Well, if even taxi drivers are being nice in this country… pfft… Not even fun! At the bus station, not a single tourist in sight except our four clueless white faces! And since our day’s tourist destination must be written in big letters on our foreheads, we’re quickly directed to the right bus. We’re on the right track, even if we’re at a bus station… We board an old, beat-up minibus! 1960… No, that’s not the number of horses under the hood—it’s the year of its last inspection… Oh well, it’ll do, even if once we’re moving, we’re going as fast as a horse tied to the stable…

The driver, who’s actually really nice, drops us right at the entrance after a forty-five-minute ride. By the way, I didn’t explain why we’re here? The new city of Jerash surrounds an ancient Roman city, entry for eight dinars. According to my trusty Lonely Planet, it’s known for the excellent state of its buildings thanks to the desert’s dryness. And my good old Lonely didn’t lie to me! I’ve visited a bunch of Roman cities, but never one this well preserved! Except, of course, Pompeii, which got lucky by being covered in volcanic lava. Anyway, we visit the famous oval plaza, unique in its kind, the Cardo Maximus, the Decumanus, the theater with its magnificent Carlus floor… A real peplum movie set! We’re half-expecting Maximus—aka Russell Crowe—to come charging in on a Roman chariot! You’d think you were there! Too bad the many extras don’t look very… Roman! Today’s fashion trend is Bermuda shorts, long socks, and flip-flops. And if the leader doesn’t have a little flag, everyone’s on a diet of huge badges on their T-shirts and neon yellow caps! Yuck!















The interesting part of the visit is also seeing the local giant puzzle club in action! Really impressive! From three or four scattered stones in the grass, they rebuild a monument! Okay, the traditional site visit takes about three hours. My little herd, being very mobile, wraps it up in two—just enough to still have tired feet… Time to head back to the capital! Either by bus like on the way there or in the taxi of the guy who clearly has a deal to propose: “For you four, thirty dinars to get back to Amman!” “We’d planned to return by bus in our budget, so we won’t go over ten!” “Come on, okay for twenty-five!” “Uh… No, I think I said ten!” “Come on, my friend, twenty and it’s a deal!”

Well, to save you precious time that you’re already giving me, I’ll take you straight to the punchline, about five minutes later: “Okay for ten!” “Alright, buddy, you’re hired!” We head satisfied toward the taxi parked a little further away when, just as we’re about to get in, the guy turns to me and innocently says: “Ten dinars isn’t enough! Okay for twenty!” “Well, you greedy guy, you’re really taking us for six-week-old bunnies! You just signed your resignation letter!” Furious, I grab my bag, open it determinedly, plunge my hand in, and pull out… my first red card of the trip! Back to the locker room, direct expulsion! The return will be by bus or not at all… We start by gathering info. “Please, where’s the bus stop for Amman? What time does it come?...” And our work stops there—we let the magic of the grapevine do the rest… In less time than it takes to write it, I feel like half the city of Jerash has gathered around us, bustling to help! By Toutatis, these Jordanians are crazy!

A bus full of buses is stopped. I ask the driver: “Amman?” Damn, apparently not… Yet, we’re forced to get on anyway! We don’t understand what’s going on… Kidnapping, ransom, scam…? Don’t panic, little scaredy-cat, remember, we’re in Jordan… I get it when our bus catches up to another and makes it stop. And of course, it’s the one going to Amman! You’re probably getting tired of hearing this, but we’ve got to give credit where it’s due: these Jordanians are so nice!

After a half-hour ride in a bus “air-conditioned” by drafts from the open windows and doors, back to the bus station for a quick and easy negotiation for a taxi at three dinars. This time, the lucky winner is Madhi, proud as a peacock to take Europeans in his beautiful all-yellow car… And as soon as we’re in, he’s also proud to blast his new Jordanian music CD: “Jordan music! Good?” “Well… Let’s say yes!” Track two... “Jordan music! Good?” “Uh… Yes, yes, it’s cool!”

We clap, we dance… Another really nice encounter! Track three… Track four… And every time, his same question… And every time, my same answer, which clearly fills him with happiness comparable to that of a young maiden in heat locking eyes with a Twilight actor! And it’s when paying the fare that Madhi definitively wins my vote for Jordan in the election of the nicest people met while traveling: He carefully puts his CD back in its case and hands it to me… “Here, it’s a gift, you can listen to Jordanian music in France…” I’m floored! We pay our taxi fare—three dinars (that’s three euros)—and the guy gives me a brand-new CD he paid five for! I think if I’d told him his car was “Good,” I’d have left with it too! Encounters like that really make you think…

At our request, Madhi drops us off at the entrance to the city citadel. We pay the two-dinar entry fee and start the visit. After a little tour, I feel like I know the site as well as the inside of the Mitsubishi. It’s not very big and not amazing. They’d warned me, but I still wanted to come for the 360-degree view of Amman, which is worth a photo or two… And let’s be honest, the awe-inspiring sites in Amman can be counted on one hand! We come to Amman mostly to soak up the atmosphere of a big Middle Eastern city… So, let’s go, time to soak up the vibe! We dive into the flow of pedestrians and start our papal tour. I mean by that we say hello every two meters: Salam aleykoum here, welcome there! The people really seem happy to see us and let us know. They greet us with as many hands as they can, and teeth, when there are any, show in a smile. People approach us, looking for contact… We even end up chatting with an old Jordanian who, after two minutes, insists on calling his wife to put her on the phone! For sure, Pékin Express or Antoine de Maximy won’t show up here—it’d be too easy!









We wander like this through the fruit and vegetable souk, in the goldsmiths’ quarter, in the one where you can find any trinket made in Taiwan… until the quarter with the super sexy lingerie shops, paradise for porn actresses or drag queens… Well, not quite. The clientele is rather covered in black from head to toe, “integrated fitting room” style. We didn’t expect that! Just for my personal curiosity, I’d love to take a little tour under their outfits to see what’s going on…





Anyway, you’ve probably got it—there’s no Eiffel Tower or pyramids to see in Amman, but we still have a great time connecting with the locals. Plus, if you want to hang around a bit, know that you’re as likely to get mugged here as when visiting the White House. Amman—if I had to do it over, I’d definitely come back! And to finish this last episode of our adventures in the land of nice people in style, we dive into one last chicken kebab. Jean-Pierre Coffe can yell “This is crap!” all he wants—I still find it delicious…

We get back to the hotel around eight, legs tired, throats parched, noses full… full of everything! While waiting for departure time to the airport, the program is internet for some, snoring for others—everyone’s happy! As for me, I collapse into a comfy couch in the common room. It’ll take a crane to get me out…

It’s at eleven that the shuttle guy shows up to send us back to France (fifteen dinars for the private shuttle)… And in the “I drive like a maniac” family, I’d like the son… We end up with Sami Nacéri—I thought he was still in jail! He drives like a madman as if our lives depended on it. On this one, they kinda did… But anyway, we arrive at the airport in one piece and start the most exciting phase of any trip: Waiting, check-in… At security, I end up without a belt, without shoes… without a shirt, without pants… Tonight, we’re going to dance… no, I think I’m getting carried away… That’s it, it really smells like the end of the end… It was the last sequence, the last show, and the curtain has fallen on the screen… Ma’asalam Petra, ma’asalam Wadi Rum, ma’asalam Jordan… Hello Ardennes! Yeah, that’s way less classy…

To conclude, I’ll tell you that Jordan is the kind of destination you can go to with your eyes closed—though that’d be a shame. And if you’ve made it through reading my whole travel journal, I think you’ve got it—Jordan, what a blast! But if you only read the last paragraph of this last page, to sum up, our trip was greenery, kebabs, temples, desert, road, beach, fish, picnics, dromedaries, ultralights, palm trees, mountains, city, Bedouins, dogs, tombs, hotels, castles, toilets, 4x4s, stairs, muezzins, valleys, sleeping bags, hummus, ice cream, ruins, nights under the stars, sweat, diving, restaurants, blisters, flat tires, encounters, arak, taxis, tents, buses… in a word, pure bliss! And if that’s not enough, you’ve just got to follow me on my next adventure…
http://onpartenvadrouille.over-blog.com Carnets de route "décalés" : Jordanie, Balkans, Thaïlande, ouest américain, Birmanie, Pérou, Cambodge, ...
GR Grillonne Regular ·
Hi there, I was behind on my reading but I caught up! 😎 I vote for the Balkans! And maybe my first travel journal on Voyage Forum will be about Le Havre! 😉 Because if that’s not an incentive, I don’t know what is! And we’ll definitely have to find something for 2020!
GR Grillonne Regular ·
"Hello, three dinars for the north station?"

Typical—what we call an open-ended question! 😉

And no sooner are we on board than he’s proudly blasting his brand-new Jordanian music CD at full volume: "Jordan music! Good? - Well… let’s just say yes! Track number two... - Jordan music! Good? - Uh… yeah, yeah, it’s cool!" We clap our hands, we dance,

This is so weird—it reminds me of our arrival in Egypt in that 🤪 taxi. Maybe they’re cousins! Though he wasn’t as generous as yours! 😕

Just out of personal curiosity, I’d love to sneak a peek under their outfits to see what’s going on…

At a mall in Doha, I saw some enter a shop and lift their black *deco* (coverings), and I nearly died when I saw the sign and the window display… *hum!* 🤪

Well, there you go! Another beautiful travel journal wrapped up, and now I’m itching to go!!! If this keeps up, you’ll have my trips on your conscience—I’m warning you! 😏😏😏
PH Phil31600 Regular ·
Awesome, thanks! What a beautiful travel journal! In Amman, I tried out a barber... except he only spoke Arabic... so he asked me to follow him to the shop next door. Discussion and negotiation on the haircut price... and back to the 'salon.' Then another question... and off my barber went to his neighbor and came back with him. The question was: how do you want your haircut? Well, as usual! Since I barely have any hair left, it's short on top and shaved on the sides. Where I laughed less was when he started heating up wax to pluck... the hairs in my ears... brave as I am, I said no... and he finished with scissors. In Amman, the national museum is really beautiful. And for contrast, a tour of the new city with its ultra-modern shopping mall... greeted by Paul, Carrefour, Pizza, Mr. Chicken, and McDonald's... super elegant women, young people working on their laptops, families who seem quite well-off... in short, another side of Jordan! And for the ride back, a taxi driver thrilled to take us, chatty as can be, and who played the game 'who do I look like?'... come on, a World Cup-winning French soccer player... I'll give you a hint... photo on the smartphone... oh... yes! ... still! Zizou... imagine Zizou with hair like he never had... even when he was young! But yes, of course! Laughing with this charming driver who dropped us off right by the theater, just steps from our hotel. And for 4 dinars. The recommended price the receptionist at our hotel had given me (since I’d wisely asked for the normal fare for this trip). So the normal price was applied without needing to haggle! In the evening, we ate at a small local restaurant recommended by our receptionist. The waiter took a liking to us (we ate there 3 nights). No menu for us. He’d say: tonight I recommend... alright, we trust you... and for dessert, the best is our crème caramel... always okay... super good... one night I still gave in to their oil and cheese cakes... double portion for my friend... had to finish it, wouldn’t want to offend my friend. Well, but... a bit heavy... but the gentleman was so kind he almost cried when we said goodbye on the last night. Ph. Ph.
Voyager ajoute à sa vie (proverbe berbère)
RO Rouquine38 Globetrotter ·
There we gooooooo… It’s over!

Sniff! Luckily, there’ll be a new one tomorrow 😎. Oh! Jordan—such a beautiful memory too. Haven’t you been tempted to go back yet? Or maybe you never visit the same place twice?
"Voyager est un triple plaisir : l'attente, l'éblouissement et le souvenir." Ilka Chase
XE Xeta Veteran ·
Amazing Jerash! I was already really drawn to Jordan, and your travel journal just confirms my plans 😎
BI Bibouns51 Globetrotter ·
Awesome, thanks! What a beautiful travel journal! In Amman, I tried out a barber... except he only spoke Arabic... so he asked me to follow him to the shop next door. Discussion and negotiation over the haircut price... and back to the 'salon.' Then another question... and off my barber goes to his neighbor and comes back with him. The question was: how do you want your haircut? Well, as usual! Since I barely have any hair left, it's short on top and shaved on the sides. Where I laughed less was when he started heating up the wax to pluck... the hairs in my ears... brave as can be, I said no... and he finished with scissors. In Amman, the national museum is really beautiful. And for contrast, a tour of the new city with its ultra-modern shopping center... greeted by Paul, Carrefour, Pizza, Mr. Chicken, and McDonald's... super elegant women, young people working on their laptops, families who seem quite well-off... in short, another Jordan! And for the return trip, a taxi driver thrilled to drive us, chatty as... well, a chatterbox, and who played the game 'who do I look like?'... come on, a world-champion soccer player... French... cat got your tongue... photo on the smartphone... oh... yeah! ... still! Zizou... imagine Zizou with hair like he never had... even when he was young! But yes, of course! Laughing with this charming driver who dropped us off right by the theater, just steps from our hotel. And for 4 dinars. The recommended price the hotel receptionist had given me (since I’d prudently asked for the normal fare for this trip). And so, the normal price applied without needing to haggle! In the evening, we ate at a small local restaurant recommended by our receptionist. The waiter took a liking to us (we ate there 3 nights). No menu for us. He’d say: tonight, I recommend... alright, we trust you... and for dessert, the best is our crème caramel... always okay... super good... one night, I still cracked and went for their oil and cheese cakes... double portion for my friend... had to finish it, don’t want to offend my friend. Well, but... a bit heavy... but so kind, the gentleman who almost cried when we said goodbye on the last night. Ph. Ph.

The Jordanians are the most welcoming, kindest, and most generous people I’ve met while traveling... Well, I think I captured that well in my travel journal. If not, I’ll shout it loud and clear once more here!!!
http://onpartenvadrouille.over-blog.com Carnets de route "décalés" : Jordanie, Balkans, Thaïlande, ouest américain, Birmanie, Pérou, Cambodge, ...
BI Bibouns51 Globetrotter ·
There we gooooooo… It’s over!

Sniff! Luckily, there’ll be a new one tomorrow 😎. Oh! Jordan—such a great memory too. Haven’t you been tempted to go back yet? Or maybe you never visit the same place twice?

Yeah, Sandrine and I have talked about it before… So I’m sure we’ll go back, even if, like you said, I prefer discovering new destinations…
http://onpartenvadrouille.over-blog.com Carnets de route "décalés" : Jordanie, Balkans, Thaïlande, ouest américain, Birmanie, Pérou, Cambodge, ...
BI Bibouns51 Globetrotter ·
Amazing Jerash! I was already really drawn to Jordan; your travel journal just confirms my plans 😎

Go for it!!! You won’t regret it! And thanks for letting me follow along on your journal...
http://onpartenvadrouille.over-blog.com Carnets de route "décalés" : Jordanie, Balkans, Thaïlande, ouest américain, Birmanie, Pérou, Cambodge, ...
XE Xeta Veteran ·
Amazing Jerash! I was already really drawn to Jordan; your travel journal just confirms my plans 😎

Go for it!!! You won’t regret it! And thanks for following along with my journal...

My pleasure 🙂 So next up: the Balkans or Cambodia?
RO Rouquine38 Globetrotter ·
Amazing Jerash! I was already really drawn to Jordan; your travel journal just confirms my idea 😎

Go for it!!! You won’t regret it! And thanks for following along with my journal...

My pleasure 🙂 So next up: the Balkans or Cambodia?

I get the feeling most people are leaning toward the Balkans, but we’ll have to wait until tomorrow at 5:30 PM 😄
"Voyager est un triple plaisir : l'attente, l'éblouissement et le souvenir." Ilka Chase
XE Xeta Veteran ·
Amazing Jerash! I was already really drawn to Jordan; your travel journal just confirms my idea 😎

Go for it!!! You won’t regret it! And thanks for following along with my journal...

My pleasure 🙂 So next up: the Balkans or Cambodia?

I get the feeling there’s a big majority for the Balkans, but we’ll have to wait until tomorrow at 5:30 PM 😄

Franck already in bed? At his age?! Pfft, standards are slipping, my dear lady!
BI Bibouns51 Globetrotter ·
Amazing Jerash! I was already really drawn to Jordan; your travel journal just confirms my plans 😎

Go for it!!! You won’t regret it! And thanks for following along with my journal...

My pleasure 🙂 So next up: the Balkans or Cambodia?

I get the feeling most people are leaning toward the Balkans, but we’ll have to wait until tomorrow at 5:30 PM 😄

Franck’s already in bed? At his age?! Pfft, standards are slipping, my dear!

A Saturday night? Me? No way... Suspense... See you tomorrow!
http://onpartenvadrouille.over-blog.com Carnets de route "décalés" : Jordanie, Balkans, Thaïlande, ouest américain, Birmanie, Pérou, Cambodge, ...
BI Bibouns51 Globetrotter ·
Well, there you go! Another lovely travel journal finished that’s made me want to go there!!! If this keeps up, you’ll have my travels on your conscience, I’m warning you! 😏😏😏

Isn’t that kind of the point of all travel journals? Okay, sure, escaping too—especially when you don’t have the chance to do it...
http://onpartenvadrouille.over-blog.com Carnets de route "décalés" : Jordanie, Balkans, Thaïlande, ouest américain, Birmanie, Pérou, Cambodge, ...
SW Swimmer Veteran ·
It was the last sequence, the last session, and the curtain fell on the screen…

So that’s how it ends? Nothing to say about the trip back? Not even a little juicy anecdote from the plane? You know, in lockdown times, digging through the bottom of the drawer is allowed.

And you’re not even sharing your new CD with us??? But "Jordan music! Good?", right?
Pascal
SW Swimmer Veteran ·
and maybe my first travel journal on Voyage Forum will be about Le Havre! 😉

So, have you definitely given up on your late-September trip to the US West Coast? If you swap your road trip for a stay in Le Havre, you won’t regret it—especially in the fall. 😏
Pascal
BI Bibouns51 Globetrotter ·
It was the last sequence, the last session, and the curtain fell on the screen…

So that’s how it ends? Nothing to say about the trip back? Not even a little juicy anecdote from the plane? You know, in lockdown times, digging through the bottom of the drawer is allowed.

And you’re not even sharing your new CD with us??? Though "Jordan music! Good?", right?

Don’t worry, I’ve still got stuff in the drawer that’s way more interesting than that not-so-exciting return trip…
http://onpartenvadrouille.over-blog.com Carnets de route "décalés" : Jordanie, Balkans, Thaïlande, ouest américain, Birmanie, Pérou, Cambodge, ...
GR Grillonne Regular ·
Alright, okay, escaping too, especially when you don't have the chance to do it...

That's exactly it! 😎 I couldn't do even a tenth of what you do, so I escape through your adventures and you make me dream!🙂

So, tonight, are you joining the majority or playing the rebel?😉 Wait and see... 5:30 PM! Lockdown does have its perks, though....
GR Grillonne Regular ·
So that’s it, you’ve definitely given up on your trip to the western US at the end of September?

No, no! It’s still in the works, but for... 2021, I think, if things keep going like this! I’ll probably need to post another tricky dilemma later today, by the way... 😉

If you replace your road trip with a stay in Le Havre, you won’t regret it, especially in the fall. 😏

You never know—stranger things have happened! 😉 November? Hmm, something to think about! 😏

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