Biking (MTB) along the Canal between the Two Seas (France)

I was invited to take part in an event organized by Pau à Vélo and other associations.

The goal was to denounce "the world’s dumbest footbridge." The Pyrénées-Atlantiques Department is developing the Véloroute Gaves-Pyrénées-Adour, known nationally as the Véloroute du Piémont Pyrénéen (V81). As part of this project, the Pau Béarn Pyrénées Urban Community built a large footbridge for pedestrians and cyclists at the end of 2017, which also serves the V81 route, connecting Mazères-Lezons (left bank) and Bizanos (right bank). This footbridge replaces an old one that supported a water pipeline. The bridge aims to link the Parc Naturel Urbain to the famous Chemin Henri IV and will allow the Véloroute to switch banks. It will be very useful for all residents of the Pau area, providing a beautiful greenway along the Gave de Pau valley, right through the heart of Pau. Unfortunately, while the bridge is easily accessible on the right bank (Bizanos side), it’s very difficult to access on the left bank (Mazères-Lezons side). On that side, access is via a double staircase equipped with a chute for pushing bikes. This chute, which isn’t grooved, becomes slippery when wet. The steep staircase (with a slope greater than 50%) blocks access for people with reduced mobility (PRM in wheelchairs) and cyclists with very heavy bikes: tricycles, recumbent bikes, bikes with trailers, etc. It also makes access very difficult for non-athletic cyclists: beginners, cyclists with young children, touring cyclists with panniers, etc. The local cycling association Pau à Vélo and the AF3V, supported by the APF (Association des Paralysés de France), are calling for the creation of a ramp accessible to everyone, as originally planned in the project. I decided to go there with my tricycle to demonstrate the difficulty of overcoming the obstacle. Although trains serving Pau accept bikes, tandems and trailers are banned (as are tricycles). There’s even a sticker at the train car entrance to remind passengers: I didn’t want to cover the 180 km between Valence d’Agen and Pau with my gas-powered vehicle. I was able to get there in a Zoe thanks to the Gers Electrification Syndicate, which has installed charging stations. Charging is temporarily free. After covering 90 km, I recharged in Eauze in 45 minutes. The whole trip took 4 hours one way. Fortunately, Didier, with whom I’ve participated in activist rides, hosted me Saturday night. On Sunday, we headed to downtown Pau where the event started.







Then we followed the Gave



to reach the footbridge

difficult to cross by bike



or by tricycle and impossible for people with reduced mobility.

Video from the morning when the associations presented to local officials the need to build a ramp, symbolized by the blue line with a maximum 4% slope:

youtu.be/WAwA5cHuL9s

Since my boyfriend Dominique wanted to cycle in Brittany and we thought June would be ideal, three months ago I bought tickets for Lorient on Monday, May 28 (right after Mother’s Day).

SNCF, at the request of the state, canceled the Toulouse-Bordeaux-Nantes-Quimper train (the Intercité I’ve taken with my bike several times between Agen and Nantes): www.francetvinfo.fr/...s-lignes_923797.html I had to buy TGV tickets from Agen to Paris and Paris to Lorient, plus 4 x 10 € for our two bikes. It’s ridiculous to go through Paris (adding to the crowd) to get to Lorient, covering 1,300 km at great energy cost when it’s only 750 km away. But they call this progress and rationalization.

Our TGV from Agen to Paris was fully booked (mission accomplished). This makes the trip less pleasant, especially in these new double-decker TGVs where there’s no space for luggage. Impossible to store a suitcase overhead. Are we supposed to travel with just an attaché case? Or is the goal to lower the center of gravity?

In these new TGVs, no bike spaces were planned (there used to be 2 per train by removing 4 fold-down seats). Under pressure from cycling associations, it’s now possible to reserve space for 2 bikes. When we boarded our carriage, the spot was already taken by a Spanish bike and huge suitcases.

We had to leave our bicycles in the entryway, blocking access to the toilets (even more annoying since the upstairs restrooms weren’t working). The conductor couldn’t blame us since he’d allowed the Spaniard to install his bike in Toulouse for 50 € (he claimed he had no way of knowing we’d reserved the spot starting from Agen). I’d considered buying the Toulouse-Paris ticket since it was the same price as Agen-Paris and easier to resell. These Prem’s tickets aren’t refundable or exchangeable by SNCF. Except in this case, we exchanged them for free because it was the day before a planned strike, and it’s on May 30 that we’re embarking on the adventure. Lucky break—arriving in Brittany on the evening of May 28, we would’ve faced violent storms.

I’d thought about bringing my AF3V IGN map showing bike routes and greenways: www.af3v.org/-Guide-des-VVV-.html But I preferred photographing the Breton section to save weight and space. Of course, I tore out the pages from the spiral-bound road guide covering our likely route. I planned to adapt it based on the weather.

Wednesday, May 30, 2018: Valence d’Agen 7 AM → Agen 9 AM (28 km) TGV Agen-Paris (753 km) TGV Paris-Lorient (554 km) → 6 PM My new bike, loaded with 5 panniers and my tent, weighs only 37 kg (usually 40 with the old one). I don’t think it’s lighter—it has an internal gearbox: voyageforum.com/...st=8207147;a=8207147 But I brought fewer tools and spare parts since it’s new.

To get to Agen station from Valence d’Agen, we take the Voie Verte along the Canal de Garonne again: 2p2r.org/...-du-canal-de-garonne That’s my photo on the cover with two women from a Toulouse association updating this guide—I joined them on the Valence-Moissac section. We arrive at Agen station an hour before the train’s departure, having chosen to allow time for any technical issues. That doesn’t make boarding any less of a nightmare in a packed carriage with only 2 minutes to stop.

Finally, we’re settled on the Lorient Express.



At Gare Montparnasse, with 2 hours to wait, we decide to go outside to escape the crowd and get some air. Bad idea! The escalator takes us down (a little too fast) with our bikes, but we can’t take the one going up—a stainless steel bollard blocks access. I immediately head to the opposite entrance to get back to the platforms as quickly as possible. Dominique asks an employee, who says we can’t use the elevator with our bikes. But I see several cyclists coming out, so I try my luck and manage by tilting my bike. Dominique, whose bike is slightly smaller, joins me on the next trip. We settle for a café in the hall where sparrows are regulars. Dominique makes a new friend.

For Lorient, we get an older TGV with more space and comfort.

And we appreciate the amenities of a modern station.





Even though the youth hostel is only 4 km away, I manage to make us do 12 km with my GPS (first time using it on my new smartphone). When I restart it after a useless loop, it shows the same route as my friend’s. Total for the day: 42 km.

After asking the hostel staff, we arrive with our gear at 7:29 PM at the LIDL, which closes at 7:30. Just enough time to grab salads, tomatoes, ham, Roquefort, and yogurts for dinner, which we’ll eat in the shared kitchen. Afterward, we take a digestive walk along the Ter

(not the TER train)

From the very first pedal strokes, I find my new bike less stable than the old one, especially when starting to balance. I tell myself it's because the frame is larger and it's perched on 28-inch wheels, so the center of gravity must be higher. Then, in certain situations, there's a tendency to shimmy when pushing the pace or with a crosswind. Since it's the first time I'm using it loaded (for my trip to Morocco, I took the old one due to justified fears of damage on the return flight: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=8640255;a=8640255), I wonder about the weight distribution. Yet, I found that the more my MTB (26") was loaded, especially at the front, the more stable it was. The shimmy gradually worsens until the morning we descend into Saint-Brieuc. On the steep slope, my braking attempts cause violent shimmying. I'm forced to pick up speed to regain stability, but it's a vicious cycle— the faster I go, the more I need to brake, and the less I can control the violent oscillations. I see no way out! How do I stop? Other than crashing, I dream of never going on bike trips again if it's this dangerous. Finally, I manage to stop by carefully modulating the brakes on that steep street. Dominique, who saw me zigzagging, understands my discomfort.

I tell him I urgently need to find a bike mechanic. Luckily, it's Saturday and there's one 2 km away. He’s never seen my transmission system before but immediately realizes the stem is loose. He loosens the two clamps holding it to the handlebars, then tightens the central bolt as on classic stems. Once the handlebars are centered and the clamps tightened—for 5 minutes of labor—I have a real bike again! He tells me that if I had kept going, I would have ruined the frame’s threading.

Thursday, May 31 – Lorient 8:00 AM to Pontivy 6:30 PM – 84 km

We start by visiting the port:



Then the city center. Numerous bike routes are suggested, though it's unclear where they lead.

It’s as we leave Lorient, crossing the Scorff River on a bridge also equipped for bikes, that I finally understand the meaning of the numbers:

Since the wind is southwesterly and it's overcast on the coast, I suggest heading inland. We notice it’s not possible to follow the Blavet River from its estuary. A woman walking her dog confirms this: only hikers can use the GR trail.



She tells us how to reach the boat cemetery by road, but the plan is foiled by rain. After taking shelter under a bus stop for a while, we head straight to Hennebont, where the towpath and greenway begin: www.af3v.org/...e-VVV-.html?voie=193#



The 60 km, in more or less good condition, are rideable with a hybrid bike even in the rain. Though we encounter two "road closed" signs: The first time for a tree downed by torrential rain, and the second for ongoing construction.

Thanks to the region for funding this superb path.



Arriving in Pontivy, we head to the youth hostel, where a group of cyclists is also stopping for the night.

I won’t have time to recount this trip since I’m leaving Sunday for another activist bike trek: www.lelimousinavelo.fr/ Luckily, I found a tourist map brochure of Brittany at the Pontivy youth hostel reception desk. It shows the GR 34 in red, which follows the coast for over 1,000 km, along with all the cycling routes and Voies Vertes. It’s amazing!

Click to zoom (like all photos on this site). I’ve traced our loop in black, completed from May 31 to June 14 between Lorient and Quimper. Photos from this 830 km loop: share.orange.fr/#WT4xdhGWpB415623896e Click on the "date added," then select name and sort in ascending order with the up arrow to view them chronologically.

Friday, June 1st – Pontivy 8:30 AM to Saint-Brieuc 6:30 PM, 107 km Text and photos coming soon.

Saturday, June 2nd: St Brieuc 9:30 AM → St Quay Portrieux 5 PM, 27 km Text and photos to come.

Sunday, June 3rd - St Quay Portrieux 8:30 AM to Lézardrieux 5:00 PM, 48 km Text and photos to come.

Monday, June 4th Lézardrieux 9 AM Trégastel 4 PM 54 km Text and photos to come.

Tuesday, June 5th Trégastel 9:15 AM Lannion 4:00 PM 39 km

Text and photos to come.

Wednesday, June 6th – Lannion 9 AM to Kerven 4 PM, 47 km Text and photos to come.

Thursday, June 7th – Kerven 8 AM to Saint-Pol-de-Léon 4 PM, 53 km Text and photos to come.

Friday, June 8th - St Pol de Léon at 9 AM to Kernic at 5 PM, 57 km Text and photos to come.

Saturday, June 9th - Kernic at 9 AM to Guissiny at 4:30 PM, 47 km Text and photos to come.

Sunday, June 10 - Guissiny 8 AM to Brest 3 PM - 47 km + 4 km Text and photos to come.

Monday, June 11th: Brest, 34 km without luggage + 6 km on foot Text and photos to come.

Tuesday, June 12th: 9:30 AM boat from Brest, 10:00 AM Le Frêt, 3:00 PM Morgat — 33 km + 18 km without luggage. Text and photos to come.

Wednesday, June 13th – Morgat 9:30 AM to Locronan 3:00 PM, 43 km Text and photos to come.

Thursday, June 14th Locronan 8:30 AM – Quimper 11:00 AM 34 km

Text and photos to come.

Friday, June 15 Trains Text and photos coming soon...

As with previous years, I took part in preparing the summer activist bike ride organized this year by www.lelimousinavelo.fr/ with support from www.af3v.org/, www.cyclo-camping.international/fr, and 2p2r.org/. The 2 Pieds 2 Roues association is based in Toulouse, where we meet starting in October to review the last ride and plan the next one. It was there that Julien Savary managed to gather a core group of activists for the first Vallée du Lot Ride in 2011: velotroute.le-pic.org/?lang=fr. For the 2018 edition, Francis Mons, a pillar of Limousin à Vélo and a resident of Brive-la-Gaillarde, is leading the way. He got our mouths watering with a rainbow-colored route project:

Motivating the team to divide tasks for this route between Bordeaux and Montluçon: Contacting local authorities Addresses for town halls, community councils, departmental councils (list) Tourist offices (list and Excel file) Contacting local associations + list Camping accommodations (list) Hard accommodations (list) Food resupply – grocery stores (list with hours) Press contacts (list + file) Press relations before the ride (end of June) Repair shops (list) Participant discussion list (management/registrations) Dedicated website (building/management) Flyer: preliminary program A3 posters for the ride and bikes Registration form / Rules and advice Banner (lighter) OpenRunner maps for participants Pre-ride registration management Press relations during the ride Route exploration SNCF schedules Tourist visits Payment collection for visits Mechanical maintenance during the ride Photos + videos during the ride He’ll be assisted in scouting and meeting with officials by Isabelle Souillard, who lives near Périgueux, and Thierry Bennegen, the AF3V departmental delegate for Haute-Vienne. After a lot of work by these main organizers and many trips—especially to meet with officials—and contributions from everyone, the ride filled up with 40 participants for all or part of the planned 600 km.

Some participants took the train from Montpellier to Toulouse to meet others and ride together on the Voie Verte along the Canal de Garonne. On June 26, one of them called me to say they were in my town of Valence d’Agen. I was able to greet a few at the café terrace where they’d stopped for a drink and others at the pharmacy where they were restocking supplies. I would’ve liked to accompany them all the way to Bordeaux, the starting point of the ride. But I couldn’t be absent again for my wife’s birthday on June 28. Like in 2014 for the Vienne–Nantes ride on the EuroVelo 6 voyageforum.com/...st=6637644;a=6637644 and in 2015 for the Copenhagen–Paris ride on the EuroVelo 3 voyageforum.com/...st=7138190;a=7138190. It was on the evening of Saturday, June 30, that we gathered with our three kids to give her gifts. I’d decided to take the train between Agen and Bordeaux. I could’ve first taken a TER from Valence to Agen, but since I was worried about boarding trains with my loaded bike, I avoided the first one by riding along the canal.

Sunday, July 1: Valence d’Agen 7:45 AM – Agen 9:45 AM (28 km) – Bordeaux 12:00 PM (140 km by train) Since my bike is still at Cyclable after the issues during my trip to Brittany: voyageforum.com/...st=9076568;a=9076568 I left with my MTB, which had stayed in the same condition after my trip to Morocco: voyageforum.com/...st=8640255;a=8640255 I had to straighten the derailleur, which had suffered on the plane. Loaded with its five panniers and tent, it only weighs 37 kg, but I realized while riding on the Voie Verte that I’d forgotten my camping plug (actually a stroke of luck, since other participants brought theirs and I didn’t end up needing it). I left the canal near Agen train station and took the footbridge over the tracks.

A sign indicates that bicycles and motorcycles have been banned since 1935. I don’t know if the ban is still in effect or if it applies to riding your bike, but at the other end, a beautiful ramp was built to descend to street level and the station entrance.

In front of the departure board, I met two people from Toulouse who’d helped me board the Intercité train on our return from the Vallée du Lot: voyageforum.com/...st=8188298;a=8188298

After they’d climbed the stairs to leave the platform (still no elevator or ramp), over coffee they told me I could’ve easily boarded their TER in Valence d’Agen. No problem on the next TER either—it was also a recent train with a platform-level floor. We arrived in Bordeaux and found the bike path along the Garonne quays. It’s now www.eurovelo.com/fr/eurovelos/eurovelo-3 that connects Trondheim in Norway to Santiago de Compostela. It was inaugurated in June to general indifference: eurovelo3.fr/...decevante/#more-4788

Gradually, we met other participants on the path and quays, with the meeting point set across from the Sunday market.

Several were already settled at the campsite, which allowed us to lighten our loads.

A first flat tire was being repaired at the gathering point.

It was Pierre’s tricycle—a Toulousain who’d participated in the Copenhagen–Paris ride before COP21.



After my market shopping, I enjoyed the free yellow kiwi tasting, opting for the smoothie.

I joined the picnic spot across from the Bourse building.

I know all these participants

and was also happy to see Francis Mons here in blue, in the leader’s seat!

We enjoyed the beautiful weather.

Sunday, July 1st - Afternoon visit + 18 km camping trip

In addition to the welcome from Vélocité, we enjoyed a guided tour by a quirky volunteer

who was really knowledgeable about Bordeaux’s history.



We discovered new buildings

and those built by wine merchants who made their fortune in the 18th century, the Monument des Girondins

and its sculptures.



It’s said that Intendant Tourny made Bordeaux the most beautiful city in France—"He gave Bordeaux that immortally noble, elegant, open air." And the city gates are stunning.



We took advantage of the car-free zone on the first Sunday of the month.



Then we returned to the quays and the Miroir d’Eau



Finally, we headed toward Bordeaux Lac

via the EuroVelo 3 and the V80: https://www.canaldes2mersavelo.com/

Sunday, July 1st evening (total day for me: 46 km) We pitch our tents next to the ones already set up at the Village du Lac campsite for the exorbitant price of 13 € each, considering the comfort and the fact that many of us are sharing each spot.

Only the pool justifies the cost.



And the loan of a room for our briefing, which ends with a drink offered by velo-cite.org/.

Thanks to them for the warm welcome throughout this pre-hike day.

Each of us is given a hiker’s booklet, a laminated sign with string to attach to our bikes, and some flyers loose sheets to hand out. This comes in addition to the GPS tracks, lists of campsites, bike shops, grocery stores... available on the website: www.lelimousinavelo.fr/...rique=28&lang=fr And the list of participants with their phone numbers, shared by email.



Another puncture repair turns out to be necessary.

Before dinner, which everyone enjoys at their own pace. The night promises to be damp:

Monday, July 2nd – Bordeaux Lac 8:15 AM, Créon 5:00 PM, 46 km Only a few drops fell last night, and between getting up around 6 AM and departure, nearly all the campers managed to dry their tents.

The departure time is strict because we’re expected at the Département Council.

Everyone gathers at reception, where those who slept indoors are waiting (the women from Montpellier, who can travel lighter this way, and the couple from Évreux, who carry their nighttime breathing devices on their e-bikes).

We quickly take the official departure photo before heading onto the bike path at the campsite entrance.

It only takes us 45 minutes to cover the 10 km, but since the group got spread out in the city due to traffic and traffic lights, and the front of the group didn’t wait, we struggle to find the spot among all the departmental and regional buildings. Luckily, a woman comes out to meet us and points us to the ramp that lets us climb onto the terrace where we’re meeting officials and journalists. We’re given an EuroVelo 3 bag and maps. I’m so focused on talking to a journalist that I don’t notice the distribution of Gironde backpacks containing a rain poncho, a bell, and a saddle cover. I only discover it in the evening and luck out by getting one from a cyclist who’s already too loaded and gives it to me. (click to enlarge) Then we explore the Saint-Michel district. The last working-class stronghold in the city center, it’s undergoing major changes.

Despite this, the neighborhood still has a strong integration focus.

You’ll find plenty of African and North African grocery stores and shops here. Saint-Michel is a village where the older residents still know each other.

We’re guided by Alain Guerineaud.

He then takes us to Cours Pasteur, where we split up to shop at Biocoop and Carrefour City.

I make sure to snap a photo of the Mobility House and ask the hostess if I can leave a stack of our flyers. This young woman, of Martinican or Guadeloupean origin, gives me a cold reception, telling me she’s busy (with a woman) before I even open my mouth.

I leave them on the table with the other flyers.



After thanking the Bordeaux locals, we cross the Pont de Pierre, which was closed to car traffic for a trial period. Article with a photo of the protest Julien Savary joined last Saturday, published today: www.sudouest.fr/...p;xtnp=9&xtcr=84



Alain Juppé has decided: www.sudouest.fr/...p;xtnp=6&xtcr=51 His press conference: www.sudouest.fr/...ppe-5206643-2780.php



We reach Latresne, where the Roger Lapèbie path begins: www.af3v.org/...he-VVV-.html?voie=16. But the route is disrupted by the construction of the new bridge, which is way behind schedule and will finally be named "Simone Veil."



Facing the Arena: www.20minutes.fr/...eaux-metropole-arena

Monday, July 2nd: Bordeaux Lac at 8:15 AM to Créon at 5 PM – 46 km (continued) Just like in Bordeaux, where the marshy suburbs were drained in the 18th century, as soon as we reach the Voie Verte, there are wetlands. Francis takes us to a nice spot for a picnic that he had scoped out.



But a few of us choose a slightly less shady spot with natural seating. Since Isabelle isn’t using her tripod, she lends it to me.

At the Biocoop, I’d suggested to Michel (who I’m biking with for the first time) that we share a half watermelon, inviting him to buy a melon next time. I find a creative way to "return" it to its owner.

Then I spend a long time waiting a few hundred meters down the path to film the whole group right after departure. But some had already bailed to grab a coffee. It’s tough to film the entire group in action without a plan. I only get part of it (see the end of this story). Still, it gives me time to photograph the signs.



We meet up in front of the old Sadirac train station, now a heritage house. But it’s closed this early afternoon, and the restrooms aren’t accessible (even the portable toilets listed are locked). To save water? Julien notes it in his observation journal to report the issues along the route later.



Claudine twisted her big toe in a fall in Bordeaux. The group was riding on the sidewalk, and she didn’t see a bollard that caused her to trip.

We leave the Roger Lapébie path to visit an organic winemaker.



Then we head to the campsite.

Here are Véronique and Jacky, who I biked with from Copenhagen.

The pool



The campsite.

We’re allowed to use the room for our debrief, next-day briefing, and apéro, on the condition we clear out for the match! Here’s my take on the subject, published in the readers’ letters section of www.ladecroissance.net/ in September 2018:

I’m amazed that the French have suddenly fallen in love with their country, passionate about a soccer match—even if it’s just a (trivial) World Cup game with the French team! "This is the best day of my life!" we hear again after the victory. A 26-year-old man says, "Now I can die in peace." For me, it’d be a bit more complicated. I’d die in peace if I were certain all nations were committed to improving the state of the planet we’ll leave to our children. By taxing kerosene to reduce airplane use. By cutting production and then banning anything harmful. By developing everything natural and healthy. Moving toward degrowth: fewer goods, more connections. A society without competition. Stop trying to crush the opponent, run together instead of against each other. Stop teaching kids they have to be better than their classmates. It’s this constant drive to be above others and always want more that makes our society so toxic. That’s not likely to happen, unlike a team that crushes the competition. Blessed are the simple-minded! And now they’re promising us gender equality: In 2019, France had the honor of hosting the eighth FIFA Women’s World Cup. From June 7 to July 7, 2019, the tournament pitted 24 qualified teams against each other. Fifty-two matches were played in nine cities: Paris, which hosted the opening match, Reims, Valenciennes, Le Havre, Rennes, Grenoble, Montpellier, Nice (where the third-place match was held), and Lyon, which hosted the semifinals and final. I was hoping women would never stoop to the level of competitors or fans (except maybe Mrs. Thatcher).

Tuesday, July 3rd - Créon 8:15 AM, Abzac 4:00 PM, 64 km



Just at my spot, there are 2 tents identical to mine.

Pierre hands out a flyer to a man interested in our group.

He’s wearing an explicit T-shirt. More and more people get it, including some prominent figures: www.ecologiste.org/...e_la_croissance.html But many prefer to keep their heads in the sand and enjoy things before the collapse. (It’s true that individual actions may seem insignificant, but we owe it to our children.)

Before leaving, Patrick helps him tighten a fastener.

At the exit of www.camping-bel-air.com/, we cautiously head onto the road to Créon.





Where we have a meet-up with the mayor.

But not with this refreshing truck.



No big deal—the town and its former mayor have already done a lot for cycling: transports.blog.lemonde.fr/...le-ephemere-du-velo/

Including creating France’s first bike station:



www.gironde-tourisme.fr/...ation-velo-de-creon/



We get back on the fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roger_Lapébie trail,

a former railway line turned into a pleasant greenway.

We’re on the EuroVelo 3 route,

modestly marked by a sticker.

which we can hope is temporary.

We wait for Pierre



who, despite the gentle slopes of the old railway lines, can’t keep up with the group. He’s followed by Hubert, who brings up the rear to support anyone falling behind.

Tuesday, July 3rd - Créon 8:15 AM to Abzac 4:00 PM, 64 km (continued)



We cross the Dordogne River

where fishing with a *carrelet* (a traditional fishing platform) is practiced.



We head to Saint-Émilion, where we only have half an hour for a free visit.



The hills are steep, and by the time I get there, I only have 15 minutes left.



I prefer to catch my breath while drinking and snacking in the shade. Luc takes the opportunity to send updates and photos to our followers (but not on Facebook or other American sites).



We hit the road again

by taking a detour to test a suggested route.

But since we weren’t informed about it, I thought, passing the same properties again: *"Something’s not right here."*



We go for a picnic at the public garden in Libourne



after doing our shopping nearby.



I bought this *"easy-to-open"* coconut at the BioCOOP. But I ruined my knife trying to get the milk water out. www.youtube.com/watch?v=uy4a73yKaRE I’ll need to get the right tool next time! www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9PAReTftPI

Francis tells me that at a shop advertising itself as Belgian and asking for a local grape variety, they sold him this wine.



The coffee and *cannelés* were offered by the Tourist Office. When we set off again, I notice my handlebars are almost loose on the stem. I must not have tightened them enough after getting off the plane, and my MTB falling over made it worse. I can turn the handlebars with no effort. Even with this loose fit, I didn’t experience any wobbling, unlike with my TX-1200 in Brittany. I pull out my hex key and tighten it quickly without losing the group.



We enjoy the shaded route

but less so the path

which gets tough on the climb.



Luckily, the www.camping-residentiel-le-paradis.fr/animation... has a great pool with massaging jets.

But first, we have to burn ourselves in the shower. Last year, I already ruined the elastane in my cycling shorts by trying to wash them. voyageforum.com/...st=8171679;a=8171679 It seems like it’s forbidden to provide cold water in camping showers.



Here, you can see the cold water pipe has been removed. I assume it’s to prevent legionella bacteria from spreading. conseils.xpair.com/..._temperature_ecs.htm It’s always *for our own good* that they make life harder...

Tuesday, July 3rd – Créon 8:15 AM to Abzac 4:00 PM, 64 km (End)

Everyone settles in. After we turned down the spot (which looked like a parking lot only usable by RVs) offered by the manager.



Didier had to add his roof extension in the middle of the night because of a few drops.

Everyone pays attention during the meeting, some setting up the seats they brought along,

followed by the apéritif and dinner.

I borrow a hammer to crack open my coconut.

I’d asked the Périgueux Tourist Office for a city map and the brochure about the vélo route along the Isle Valley, which I received before my trip: www.tourisme-isleperigord.com/velo-route-voie-v...

We’ll take it tomorrow and ride its 100 km all the way past Périgueux. The next part of this adventure will bring us face-to-face with storms and gale-force winds that’ll hit the region hard...

Since I’m leaving Monday for Draguignan to meet up with 40 cyclists: www.af3v.org/...LE-LA-VOIE-2018.html I won’t be able to finish this story. In the meantime, the videos are here: share.orange.fr/#7QN0I7oXIa2ebbba17a5 To watch them, it seems you need to download the 3 where I made edits, and the unedited one can be viewed directly.

Wednesday, July 4th - Abzac 8:30 AM to Sourzac 4:45 PM, 77 km



We're enjoying the Véloroute de l'Isle.

V90 Very pleasant. But the pace is too fast.



I arrive too late in Montpon to visit the organ. I do, however, have time to enjoy the market, buy a guinea fowl, and make it to the meet-up with the local officials who offer us a drink at the nautical base.



The other cyclists arrive late and one by one. After the picnic, we get back on the bike path and its beautiful footbridges. The first to arrive at the campsite enjoy the municipal shelter. The others endure the rain and violent wind gusts. Some see large billboards fly away. The Municipality of Sourzac offers us a drink by the light of emergency lighting and suggests spending the night in this space next to the town hall and the campsite restrooms.

Thursday, July 5th - Sourzac 8:15 AM to Trélissac 6:00 PM, 58 km

The bravest had set up their tents after the storm. After the briefing and safety rules reminder, we set off again in the rain. The greenway wasn’t flooded, but the corn was flattened.

We visited the sturgeon farm in Neuvic.

We didn’t go for the tasting option because of its price.

After the market in Saint-Astier, we enjoyed the sunshine for our picnic.

Just enough time to dry the tent before the next downpour.

And take shelter under the high-quality facilities.

The greenway took us toward Périgueux.

It wasn’t spared by the storm.



The footbridge to access the city was closed.

Luc went to buy a rim to replace Olivier’s, which had cracked. But it wasn’t the right size. They had to go back and exchange it.

Further on, the greenway was closed.

We were still welcomed by the officials of Périgueux.



We were supposed to stay at the leisure center in Trélissac, but trees had partially destroyed it. Isabelle, who lives in the town despite a tree falling on her home, got permission to use the sports field and restrooms.

As well as the hall. On top of that, she offered us an apéritif. Thanks to her!

Friday, July 6th – Trélissac 9 AM to Jumilhac Le Grand 6 PM, 80 km Don’t miss the departure time.

Madeleine took a spill the day before, riding too close to the curb in Périgueux traffic.

We cross the countryside to

reach Savignac, which is without power.

The inauguration of the new market hall was canceled,

but we’re warmly welcomed. by a local official

who’s passionate about developing bike tourism.

Power returns, much to the delight of the few e-bike users.

After our picnic, the route is harder to follow than on the Voie Verte, and the group stretches out. I wait fifteen minutes to point out a change of direction but never see the others catch up. Not everyone takes the same route.



Luckily, a regrouping point forms naturally.

Then, scattered again, we discover beautiful landscapes. Downside of taking photos after passing the factory crossed by the road.

I’m not sure whether to turn right or left and make the wrong choice. This adds distance to my leg and delays my arrival

in Jumilhac, which also suffered power outages.

Despite arriving late at the campsite,





I take the time to swim in the Isle River before dinner.

Saturday, July 7th – Jumilhac Le Grand at 8:15 AM to Grand Parc du Reynou at 5 PM – 56 km Like the day before, there were some route issues. For example, Madeleine ended up alone (but managed fine). I volunteered to be the sweeper on the condition that I wouldn’t wait for Pierre, who, with his tricycle and overloaded trailer, couldn’t keep up with the group.

We met up at 8:30 AM in front of the Château de Jumilhac for a photo in the sun. We noticed the aftermath of the storm on the road

near St Yrieix.



A pretty village



with its market.

Before the picnic, we stopped by the community grocery store in St Priest Ligoure.

We regrouped after the meal

to hit the road again in the heat.

When I arrived at the next gathering point, some had already cooled off while others were resting.

We made it to Parc du Reynou.

Where some chose to sleep in the lodges and others, like me, in tents. Luc handled the bike repairs (there was a broken chain during the day). Thierry Bennegen, the AF3V delegate for Haute-Vienne, offered an apéritif before dinner in the park of the château.

Sunday, July 8th: Grand Parc du Reynou at 8:30 AM, Lac de Saint-Pardoux at 5:30 PM — 60 km. With the darkness, the animals are less skittish.

Breakfast on the terrace



draws some interest. Signalman in the shade.

Signalwoman in the sun. Luckily, on this Sunday, there’s a market in Panazol.



In Limoges, we meet up with the association velivelo-limoges.org/



for the France 3 report. The journalists film us on the Pont Saint-Étienne

then along the route.

The kids join the adventure all the way to Lac de Saint-Pardoux.



Some locals ride with us for a few kilometers.

Francis rode with a flat and ruined his tire to avoid missing the next meet-up point with France 3. www.youtube.com/watch?v=ltyeBeTHSrw Then, the deputy mayor of Chaptelat, dressed in cycling gear, joins us for a picnic near the sports hall. Back on the route with a few elevation changes

to reach Lac de Saint-Pardoux via the brand-new bike path: https://velivelo.wordpress.com/2018/07/01/inauguration-de-la-velo-route-et-de-la-piste-cyclable-au-lac-de-saint-pardoux/

where I arrive first since I arranged to meet my wife, who’s spending the weekend at a friend’s place in Corrèze. I asked her to bring the apéritif (long live the car!)



which we share before hitting the road again.

Monday, July 9th – Lac de Saint-Pardoux 08:15 AM to La Souterraine 5:30 PM km The kids spent the night in the tent and will join us for part of the stage. Others travel a little less light.

Briefing in front of the Fréaudour campsite reception

before departure.

In a village, the baker offers coffee. Always keep your reusable cup handy. Heading to Benèvent-l'Abbaye

enjoying the scenery

and the landmarks.



Thanks to our thorough prep work, we still have a meet-up with a local official during the picnic: www.lamontagne.fr/...mousin_12940076.html and in the next village, with an official who’s fighting for tourism development and the upkeep of public services.

Waiting for the mayor and the cycling club from La Souterraine

we do some stretches.

We’re welcomed at the town hall.

Photo before the reception. At the campsite,

it’s those sleeping in solid accommodations who offer the aperitif.

Tuesday, July 10 La Souterraine 08:00 Le Moulin de Piot 18:30 71 km I have my breakfast on the pool terrace.

Usual packing,

everything in its place.

Yves even managed to take a big pump.

Two local cyclists join us for the first few kilometers.

Then Francis takes us to a producer’s place.

I buy a tray of blueberries, and everyone chips in 2 € to enjoy them. After Crozant,

a climb

where a dog has time to bark at every cyclist.

we go for a picnic in Fresselines. Since there’s no water point,

I ask a friendly local who lets us fill our water bottles.



Not having signed up for the Impressionist painters’ visit, I treat myself to a restorative nap. After La Celle-Dunoise,

a nice 8% climb lets us dominate the Creuse Valley.

Total elevation gain of 893m over the 71 km stage to reach the campsite.

where supporters can watch the soccer match

while smartphones recharge.

Wednesday, July 11th Le Moulin de Piot 08:15 AM Chambon sur Voueize 05:45 PM 70 km

The morning coolness doesn’t stop a cleaning and greasing session before tackling a climb on a trail. For a friendly welcome



in Chatelus Malvaleix.

Before crossing the countryside again and climbing up to the Toulx Sainte Croix observatory at 656 m, the highest point of our ride. Picnic spot

and well-deserved naps

that boost our enthusiasm.

The route is well-marked But Isabelle, who’s ahead of us, still left an extra clue. To head toward Chambon sur Voueize

where we have our end-of-ride meal before parting ways in Montluçon.

And some interviews for a first debrief.

Thursday, July 12th - Chambon sur Voueize 08:45 AM to Montluçon 06:45 PM - 55 km Before leaving the village that embodies Chambon’s local charm, we pass by the stunning media library one last time

to head to the Town Hall, where we have a meet-up with a local official.

For this final leg, Montluçon’s sports director joins us. He came

from his town in the cool morning air. Due to the climbs and some grumbling about the fast pace of previous stages—leaving some behind— we arrive too late to do our shopping at the Intermarché Contact in Néris, which closes at 12:15 PM and doesn’t reopen until 3:00 PM. I can confirm this since I mapped out all the food shops along the route.



We pass by the beautiful Néris-les-Bains train station, which has been out of service since 1972. Only part of the group makes it to the planned picnic spot. Others are still looking for places to eat.

We get back on the Voie Verte at the start

along the old railway line with its smooth, stabilized surface.

We meet up with members of fr-fr.facebook.com/cyclopede03/ and follow them before being slowed down by car-blocking obstacles

that also block hikers. We arrive at Montluçon’s town hall where we unfurl our banner one last time

before the final toast and final interview. Then comes the moment of parting. Some decided to stay at a hotel near the train station to catch early trains tomorrow, so only six of us follow our patient guide for the day. After letting us do some shopping, he leads us up a steep climb—up to 20% gradient—to reach the leisure center where he allows us to pitch our tents. Thanks to Montluçon for its hospitality.



All that riding sure works up an appetite.

Friday, July 13th: visit to Montluçon, return train to Agen at 10:45 PM, 40 km This AF3V advocacy ride was a success like the previous ones, but it struggled with the daily elevation changes needed to cross the Limousin plateau. It wasn’t that the climbs were too difficult or too long, but they made it hard to stick to the schedule for meet-ups with local officials, journalists, and cycling clubs. Some participants felt left behind when they fell behind the leader. Thanks anyway to all the organizers.

After my last breakfast and packing up the tent, I head back down into the city.

I accompany two cyclists to the train station where we meet up with many participants since two TER trains are about to leave. A station agent lets us cross the tracks.

Since the Montluçon-Bordeaux line reopened at the end of the year: www.lamontagne.fr/...cembre_12623326.html I wanted to take advantage of this opportunity, fearing train changes. reporterre.net/...SNCF-ne-l-y-aide-pas But the only direct route (with 10 stops) leaves at 4 PM.

So I lock my bike in front of the station for the day. Even my panniers have small locks to prevent them from being easily removed. I accompany Jean-Noël to the station café and take a photo of *La Montagne* covering our journey. Then I explore the city on foot

and visit the Museum of Popular Music with its interactive temporary exhibits and permanent collections. I can pause my visit for lunch,



and enjoy the restaurant "La Vie en Rose" nearby. Then I pick up where I left off with the same ticket.



Finally, I return to the station.

On the TER, two young people ask if we were paid to do our ride. They, at least, didn’t pay for their ticket (that must be outdated), and the conductor didn’t seem to faze them.



I arrived at Gare Saint-Jean at 8:45 PM and took the TGV to Agen. Despite the extra 10 € for the bike, it was cheaper than the TER. I wrote to the President of the Nouvelle-Aquitaine Regional Council to denounce the unfair competition practiced by SNCF, which allows combining a TER and a TGV on the same ticket but not two TERs from different regions. Here’s the response: Sir, In an email dated July 18, 2018, you shared your experience following a trip between Montluçon and Agen on our TER trains on July 13. You mentioned your surprise at the pricing differences between TER and TGV trains. The pricing discrepancies you observed indeed reveal a lack of promotion for regional fares. TGV and Intercités have their own pricing, which the Region cannot influence, and sometimes compete with TER. For your information, the Oui.sncf website and the ticket counters at Bordeaux Saint-Jean station are managed by the "Voyages SNCF" branch, dedicated to long-distance travel, which includes TGV and Intercités, not TER. Regarding your trip, first note that the Montluçon-Bordeaux TERs are all managed by the Nouvelle-Aquitaine Region, even though Montluçon is located in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes Region. Thus, for a Montluçon-Agen trip, you only used Nouvelle-Aquitaine TERs. The lack of kilometer-based pricing discounts is not due to different offers between the two Regions. After verification, we confirm that SNCF does apply this discount for inter-regional TER trips (e.g., Bordeaux-Montauban with a connection in Agen), provided the connection is indicated in the booking system. Indeed, to date, all Regions rely on SNCF’s distribution system to sell their specific fares. As a result, we have little leeway to verify the ticket sales conditions set by the railway company. To benefit from the most attractive regional fares, I invite you to visit the site www.ter.sncf.com/nouvelle-aquitaine: from the timetable search engine, you can specify which modes of transport and types of trains you wish to use. By entering your age and any discount cards, you can access the best TER fares (including some promotional offers) and purchase your ticket directly. A Montluçon-Agen trip via Bordeaux on TER is priced at 66.40 € instead of 76.70 € without the kilometer-based discount (full fare). We thank you for your feedback, which will allow us to work with SNCF to better promote regional pricing through the various distribution channels. Thank you for your interest in our regional rail network. Please accept, Sir, our best regards.

The Passenger Rail Transport Directorate

I couldn’t get those fares and followed up on my request in vain.

As usual on the new double-decker TGVs, I couldn’t put my MTB in the spot I paid for (it’s a luggage area). It stayed in front of the toilets. Only a road bike managed to squeeze in above the suitcases.

Arriving in Agen at 10:30 PM, I only had to wait half an hour to watch the fireworks. I went to the canal bridge (above the Garonne). I was a bit far to see well, especially since they stupidly stopped turning off the streetlights.

At 11:30 PM, I only had 28 km left to reach my home in Valence d’Agen. 23 of those were on the greenway along the Garonne lateral canal. See Julien Savary’s photos here: www.af3v.org/...e-VVV-.html?voie=188 As soon as I leave the city lights, where I’d been content with my yellow vest, I turn on my headlamp. Its light is almost sufficient when light gray gravel was used to pave the path. When it’s almost black, I can barely make it out. And though the temperature is pleasant, I limit my speed. I’ll only cross paths with one other bike, which fortunately is lit. My passing startles a few ducks or coypus into diving, and swarms of moths and other flying insects converge on my headlamp’s beam. I feel the need to scratch my arms and legs and sometimes find strands of spider webs caught while passing under trees. A characteristic crunch tells me I’m riding over a few rare plane tree leaves I can’t see at all. Distant flashes of lightning accompany me the whole way, and a few tiny raindrops greet me as I leave Lot-et-Garonne for Tarn-et-Garonne: www.af3v.org/...e-VVV-.html?voie=197 When the bike path is close to the road, car headlights force me to stop, blinded. Fortunately, the canal is almost always far enough from the old N113. A single reflective sign is enough for my headlamp to make the path invisible. Finally, I arrive in Golfech, where the bridge has recently been redone. I then turn on my rear light to take the road under a starry but moonless sky. Indeed, I’d noted it would be the new moon on July 13th. Ideal for the fireworks but not for night riding. I went to bed at 2 AM and got up at noon. I only lost one kilo. Hard to lose more! Finally, the Prime Minister is aware we’re heading toward collapse: positivr.fr/...ation-nicolas-hulot/ I feel reassured! Soon, trains and bikes will become priorities—or we’ll have no choice but to walk.

At Julien Savary’s invitation: www.vvv-sud.org/...ion.html#30septembre I convinced my wife and a couple of friends to join their first activist ride. The two women were a bit worried about covering 45 km with a group, but I reassured them it was a leisurely tour with meetings with local officials. Since the meet-up was at Boussens train station, cyclists from Toulouse took the train (heading to Saint-Gaudens). For us, we left from Valence d’Agen at 6:15 AM, covering 155 km by road. (I should’ve taken the highway to avoid being late, but we weren’t the last to arrive.)

This was only the second time in 7 years: voyageforum.com/...st=4462769;a=4462769 that I’ve used a gas-powered car to go on a bike ride.

My three companions loved this first experience—sunny weather, rich in geographical and cultural discoveries, and a really friendly atmosphere. Less so the bikes: one lost some paint at a friction point, and all three panniers got damaged.

Thanks to 2p2r.org/ and Julien Savary for organizing! Here’s his report: A big thank you to everyone for being there, for mobilizing to demand the development of the V81 cycle route as an 18 km Greenway on the old railway line between Boussens-Roquefort and Castagnède, on the Ariège border.

We were over 25 cyclists—thanks to friends from 2P2R Toulouse (often also members of AF3V), those from CCI Cyclo Camping International, and the four cyclists from FFCT clubs (Cellulose Cyclos Club, Saint-Gaudinois Hikers Club, Couseranais Cycling Club).

It was important to have a good turnout for our meetings with local officials: = Mr. Sans, mayor of Boussens and vice-president of the department in charge of roads, who came to see us at the station; = Ms. Artigues, departmental councilor for the canton, who announced at Salies at noon the good news that had already been published in the press the day before! And already shared with 2P2R in a letter from the president dated September 18.

Reminder: = The department is actively creating cycling paths, including in rural areas; = Given cyclists’ and residents’ requests, especially the proposals from the Local Development Council of the Community of Communes, the department has decided to quickly build a 9 km cycling path between Roquefort-sur-Garonne and Salies-du-Salat, on the route of the old railway line; = After consultation, the following is planned: launching tenders in early 2019, construction from July to October, and inauguration at the end of October 2019.

From the press and Ms. Artigues, we learned that the surface will be high quality: smooth, reinforced stabilized gravel, light-colored, usable by all cyclists and wheelchair users (similar to what was recently used along the Canal du Midi). Planned cost: 1 million euros, fully covered by the department.

In response to a question, Ms. Artigues said that extending the cycling path toward Ariège could happen quickly as part of the announced 2019 launch of the Mane bypass.

She also confirmed that the department would continue to consider, for future cycling projects in the Salat Valley, the proposals from associations and the very comprehensive suggestions from the Community of Communes.

This highlights the key role played by residents and the Local Development Council—thanks to them, and to Sébastien Chanfreau, Stéphanie Ballereau (co-presidents), and Alain Salles.

That’s the main takeaway, showing that "in terms of advocacy," the September 30 ride was a success: full of promises we believe in!!

As for the ride and tourism, thanks to the sunshine, the visit to the Paper Museum (with Sébastien Chanfreau and former workers volunteering), and the visit to the Templar church in Montsaunès—brilliantly explained by René Peyriguer, a passionate enthusiast—I hope you enjoyed this short ride!

Check out Patrick’s photos: photos.app.goo.gl/JNxubkV7xtYpDzn79

See the route (map) by Patrick: www.visugpx.com/aVpgWHiC87 and the visualization: www.relive.cc/view/1877138998

Stay in touch with Deux Pieds Deux Roues, the delegation of https://www.af3v.org/: Follow their site: www.2p2r.org/ and their actions (demonstrations, Sunday rides, La Roue Tourne Festival). Follow the AF3V-Sud site: www.vvv-sud.org (demands/projects/activities pages). See you on February 9, 2019, at the La Roue Tourne Bicycle Travel Festival: larouetournefestival.wordpress.com/ See you in October 2019 for the inauguration of the 9 km path—and to ask for the next steps... Julien Savary

Here’s my video taken at the Saint-Martory bridge gate: share.orange.fr/#r3aQDk1arl178525bc29

Of course, I took the opportunity to remind the departmental councilor that Greenways aren’t just for leisure and tourism: My first bike commute: voyageforum.com/...post=2799841#2799841 The second: voyageforum.com/...st=3804254;a=3804254 The third: voyageforum.com/...post=6006514#6006514

I’ve said it again and again: the only viable modes of transport for people in the future are Walking, Biking, Trams, and Trains. (Now we just need to combine them!) Here’s some great news reported by CycloTransEurope: Victory for cyclists in the European Parliament A major step was taken on October 9 in the European Parliament. The transport committee voted on an amendment requiring new and renovated trains to include 8 bike spaces within two years of the adoption of the rail passengers' rights regulation. Proposed by the Greens group, it passed with a large majority. The likely adoption in the plenary session will send another strong signal—but it’s not a done deal yet. The formidable hurdle of the European Council, which brings together the 27 governments, still remains.

This vote gives stronger legitimacy to our equivalent demand to include a similar amendment in the mobility orientation law, which is set to be voted on soon.

Bikes on trains are essential! eurovelo3.fr/cte/objectifs-cte/

Maybe we’ll soon be able to travel more peacefully and embark on new adventures!

See also: https://www.isabelleetlevelo.fr/2018/10/12/les-trains-transporteront-tous-des-velos/

As a member of Moissac Solidarité, I was invited to a friendly evening to celebrate its name change to ESCALE CONFLUENCE: moissac-solidarite.fr/pages/

I discovered this association through a friend who helped set up the workshop space for the participatory bike workshop, which is part of a social integration project through economic activity, located in the former slaughterhouse buildings—where they also host people in need.

Laurent, the workshop manager, asked me to bring my new bike, so I rode there via the Voie Verte along the Canal de Garonne. Taking advantage of the unusually mild weather on November 29th, I cycled the 20 km from my home in Valence d’Agen to Moissac.

After the speeches by the association’s president, local authorities, and elected officials, I chatted with Céline Platel, the sub-prefect of Tarn-et-Garonne. I pointed out how the bike path made it possible for me to arrive by bike and reminded her that greenways (VV) can also be used for professional trips (see the bottom of this post: voyageforum.com/...st=9179254;a=9179254).

I also mentioned the opportunity to return by train (Moissac 20:14 → Valence 20:25) for just 1 €, now that the Midi-Pyrénées region has aligned with Languedoc-Roussillon (which had been offering this for years) under the new Occitanie region: www.ter.sncf.com/...itanie/billets-1euro.

She then said, "You don’t have a car?" To which I replied, "I have a gas one and an electric one," thanking her for the few minutes she’d given me (before she hurried off after her speech).

I congratulated Maryse Baulu, deputy mayor of Moissac, on the installation of secure bike shelters in the historic center:











I told her I was surprised—having lived in Castelsarrasin for 5 years and Valence for 20, and biked along the canal banks countless times—that I’d never known about the bike workshop in those buildings. She agreed with my suggestion that it’d be smart to put up a sign on the Voie Verte, where thousands of cyclists pass by, to indicate the bike rental, repair, and maintenance services. www.ladepeche.fr/...-a-plein-regime.html









There *is* a sign on the road, but it’s more likely to be seen by drivers:



I was less smug when I got to the station and saw my train was delayed by 30 minutes.

Luckily, I realized I could take the earlier train, which was announced with a 1-hour delay. Turns out the 19:14 train, which also stops at Valence d’Agen, arrived 70 minutes late because of a level crossing where the barriers stayed open. I chatted with two young people getting off at Valence—they were pretty fed up after experiencing a second delay that week. Then I rode a bit with the guy who was continuing by bike to Goudourville.

Inauguration (continued) In addition to the soup prepared by the director of Escale Confluence, we enjoyed excellent local and organic products. Thank you and well done to all the employees and volunteers! The evening allowed many visitors to discover the various services offered through stands, photos, and videos:

Since I participated in two activist bike rides along the Mediterranean in 2017 and 2018 www.canaldes2mersavelo.com/...-mediterranee-a-velo I was invited to a day of exchanges on November 28th in Narbonne. I chose to go by train on the 27th. Since my home in Valence d’Agen and my destination are now in Occitanie, I could use my regional discount card LIBERTIO.

The LibertiO card gives you discounts for trips across the entire Occitanie region: -50% on your TER trips on weekends, public holidays, and every day during school holidays* -25% on your TER trips during the week *Valid for all school holiday zones The offer is valid on TER trains and coaches, and regional coaches. It also allows you to travel in Occitanie and as far as Brive, Agen, Pau, Avignon, and Clermont-Ferrand via Langogne or Marvejols.

It replaced the former Pack Liberté offered by Midi-Pyrénées. It offers the same benefits but no longer allows you to extend the discount to up to 3 companions. However, with the merger, Occitanie adopted the practice from Languedoc-Roussillon of offering TER tickets for 1 € during off-peak hours.

1 € tickets across the region ► 1 € tickets are valid on all TER trains for trips throughout the Occitanie region, in limited numbers. ► Where to buy my tickets: Website www.ter.sncf.com/occitanie under "Search for a schedule" (the 1 € fare is offered based on availability) SNCF App You can buy the 1 € ticket up to 3 weeks before your travel date The 1 € ticket is valid for one day on a single train. It is non-exchangeable and non-refundable.

I was surprised to see that TER advertised 1 million 1 € tickets, yet they were so rare here (for example, between Toulouse and Valence, I got a 1 € ticket, but my son paid 17 € because there were no others available). This is because they are almost all sold where it was already in place:

100% 1 € lines On the 5 lines below, all seats are 1 €, no matter when you buy: Nîmes - Le Grau du Roi Carcassonne - Quillan Perpignan - Villefranche-Vernet-les-Bains Marvejols - La-Bastide-St-Laurent-les-Bains Béziers - Bédarieux - St-Chély-d'Apcher

Still, it’s progress. I’ve already traveled 5 or 6 times for 1 €. I think it makes sense to offer this during off-peak hours (if it were permanent and for everyone, it would be better, but we’d have to pay more in taxes. Why not apply it to trucks?)

So, you need to check if your travel time is during peak hours before using your discount card, which now must be in the form of a badge:

The Pastel card is a personal and non-transferable ticketing medium; the membership fee is 8 €. To get your Pastel card, download the application form and submit it completed with the required documents to one of our SNCF sales points*or a Pastel Center. Documents required to obtain your Pastel card: The Pastel card application form (duly completed and printed in 3 copies) A recent, color ID photo A photocopy of your ID For more information on issuing and managing the Pastel card, see the general terms and conditions. *Departments: Ariège, Aveyron, Gers, Haute-Garonne, Gers, Lot, Hautes-Pyrénées, Tarn, and Tarn-et-Garonne.

But it might be more advantageous to buy an EVASIO FUTÉ ticket (without using your discount card):

Discover our low-cost tickets for traveling across the region! These tickets apply to certain trains identified as EvasiO' Futé. Depending on the distance, travel for 3 €, 5 €, 10 €, or 15 €! 3 € up to 40 km 5 € from 41 to 80 km 10 € from 81 to 200 km 15 € over 200 km. Beyond 200 km, the price remains fixed regardless of distance. The ÉvasiO' Futé ticket is valid for one train only. If you have a connecting trip, you need one ticket per TER train (e.g., 2 TER trains = 2 ÉvasiO' Futé tickets purchased.) To check if my train is ÉvasiO' Futé, see the list of trains or visit the timetable sheets section.

Not simple! And all this is only valid for one region. For example, in the SUD region (formerly PACA), it’s the ZOU card that’s free and offers up to 75% off. I think it allows up to 3 companions to benefit, but I couldn’t even find the terms of use. Needless to say, I’d like all users across France to be treated the same. A national public service, that’s what we need! But I’m completely old-fashioned. The modern way is soon to have multiple companies on our rails. To cross France, you’ll have to use SNCF and Virgin Transport (hypothetically)... and be lucky if it’s on the same ticket. But that’s not all! A few days earlier, I received an email from TER Occitanie inviting me to take advantage of the Black Friday offer. So I waited for the 23rd, that magical Friday when stores’ red (negative) accounts turn black (positive). But it initially involved buying a 50% off ticket for the trip (without knowing the schedules). Then trying to use it, like leaving at 6 AM. A Black Scam in my case, with a connection in Toulouse and inevitably one of my two TERs during peak hours. So I ended up buying a Valence d’Agen-Toulouse TER and a Toulouse-Narbonne TGV for 33 €. Cheap, but at that price, the TGV only goes up to 140 km/h on conventional tracks (less if they’re degraded). And for the return, I took two TERs that only cost me 28.70 € with the 25% discount from my LibertIO card (in all these names, you have to find LIO, Occitanie’s public transport service:

Thanks to liO, the Occitanie / Pyrénées-Méditerranée Region now has a unique and harmonized regional public transport service, which will be implemented in the 13 departments of the territory.)

But that doesn’t mean anything to me (maybe it’s the singer!). Even more complicated than Ouigo (we know we’ll go, but not how) or FlixBus (a German company, but at least you see the vehicle)... With all that, I forgot to take my Pastel card (which I hardly ever use because I prefer the 1 € Valence d’Agen-Toulouse tickets or the 10 € EvasIOfuté ones). On the return trip in the TER Narbonne-Toulouse (which is still longer than the TGV with all the stops), the conductor threatened to fine me 35 €, then advised me to buy a new 17 € ticket in Toulouse (for Valence d’Agen) to avoid the fine from the much stricter Toulouse conductors (according to him). Luckily, as I was approaching home and getting off the upper level of the TER Bombardier (made in France—thanks to the Region for these comfortable and bike-accessible TERs without steps) to use the restroom, I ran into the conductor in action. I showed her my smartphone, and she scanned my QR code before moving on to the next passenger without asking for ID. I was already in the restroom. Anyway, I wouldn’t have let it slide because this train was accessible for 1 € (a fare I benefited from the next day at the same time—see previous story).

I had booked an apart-hotel, the same one Dominique and I used when we biked toward Spain in 2016: voyageforum.com/...st=7673711;a=7673711 The difference is it’s no longer AppartCity but Zénitude Hôtel Résidence. I booked through their website. On Booking.com, it was the same price, but they take an 18% commission at the hotel’s expense. The downside is that if I can’t make it, I’d lose my 48 €, whereas with Booking, I would’ve been refunded.

Narbonne station still isn’t equipped with an elevator or ramp. Fortunately, I didn’t have my bike—just my backpack loaded with food for dinner and breakfast, which I left in my studio. I went out with just my phone, wallet, hat, and gloves because of the wind. Despite it, I immediately smelled the toxic fumes from the exhaust pipes. At 5:30 PM, I walked through the city during rush hour. Cars and pedestrians, equally numerous, competed for the road. Actually, it went smoothly—drivers yielded to walkers at every crosswalk, braking and accelerating constantly. I, who try never to stop a car by crossing when the road is clear to avoid wasting the kinetic energy of one- or two-ton vehicles and burning fuel to restart (not to mention the fine particles from brake pads), had no choice this time. I took advantage of the many crossings with strollers, suitcases, and young people to switch sidewalks. The diesel smell was really irritating. After greeting Malraux and Trenet, I preferred to take refuge in a tea salon, where I asked permission to photograph the mural after reading the newspapers.



I don’t understand why people oppose taxing diesel. We’re going to repeat the "red caps" stunt. While all parties agreed to tax road transport, a few Bretons were enough to waste millions invested in toll gates (for us). Of course, I understand the frustration of low-income workers who have to use their cars to get to work. We need income-based aid. But we must free ourselves from our dependence on oil, which is 99% foreign-produced. It’s true that we’re being taken for fools because the most polluting modes of transport—planes and boats—are tax-exempt. Oddly, people are starting to denounce the lack of tax on kerosene. I might’ve launched my petition too early: www.change.org/...ment-less-polluting It’s amusing that while Ms. Merkel arrived at the G20 a day late due to a major issue with the plane that was supposed to take her to Buenos Aires, the Luftwaffe commander, recounting the emergency landing, was outraged that they couldn’t dump the kerosene first, as usual (which is normal—it’s sprayed over airport neighbors before landing). For example, the Airbus A380, which weighs 500 tons, takes off with a maximum of 250 tons of kerosene in its four tanks but can only land with a maximum of 100 tons. So in case of an emergency landing after takeoff, it must first dump 150 tons over your heads, your garden, laundry... and all without a single eco-tax! Currently, the yellow vests are circulating Jamy’s video showing that diesel is less polluting than gasoline without specifying that it’s from 2003. Since then, things have obviously changed a lot. We’ve notably discovered and scientifically proven the harmful health impacts of fine particles and nitrogen oxides, emitted in large quantities by diesel engines. Their exhaust gases were classified as definitely carcinogenic in 2012. Worse: Dieselgate happened, and we realized that the standards in place weren’t being respected. Yet I agree with the tax fatigue. But not for everything. I’m in favor of taxes (based on income)—otherwise, there’d be no public services, like paid schooling—and social contributions—otherwise, there’d be no health or retirement protection. However, I’m against the exemption of overtime (it should be the opposite: higher deductions on overtime to encourage hiring). What outrages me is, for example, VAT on taxes on an electricity bill. Where can there be added value on a tax? Non-deductible CSG! That’s paying taxes on income you don’t receive and complicating pay slips. Withholding tax so the state can have a third party deduct money it will return when I file my return! And even more complications! On the other hand, this week, I signed the petition demanding President Macron’s resignation: referendumpourlademissiondemacron.wesign.it/fr Because I think most of his actions widen the gap between the rich and the poor. And I donated 100 € to reseauactionclimat.org/ So they can support the transition to sustainable mobility. I wouldn’t want the Greens to govern the country, though, because the first thing they’d do is shut down nuclear power. Which seems like a mistake to me. We must continue to operate reactors whose initial investment has been amortized and whose safety upgrades haven’t yet been. They don’t produce greenhouse gases, and we can’t afford to ignore the fight against climate change. The longer we wait, the greater the disruptions and the more costly the consequences. We need more than a transition—a paradigm shift. The viable solution is to move toward Degrowth. Contrary to what Pierre Gattaz says: « We must, like other countries, reduce charges to free up Growth—it’s vital. » No, it’s deadly! And what about nuclear waste with radioactive half-lives of thousands of years! That doesn’t seem like a problem to store them safely until the end of humanity, which I estimate at best to be a few hundred years. Unless we live under a dome, in a bunker, or in a gated city to protect ourselves from hordes of climate, chemical refugees, and pollution. That said, I mostly agree with what an average Frenchman writes: ⚠️ Letter to Mr. Macron and his ministers, The yellow vests...... this category of people who bother you!!! Who are necessarily working-class, uneducated, who understand nothing, who are fascist because today, in your eyes, the France of average people (which represents the middle class) is stupid, illiterate, or fascist, an analysis made by some media. I think you really don’t understand anything, or maybe you’re doing it on purpose. You try to explain to us every day that our purchasing power is increasing. Get off your cloud, which is light-years away from ordinary mortals. Come live a few weeks with these average people, and we can talk about it afterward. When your media tell us everything is false, that our purchasing power hasn’t decreased, you remind me of those corporate salespeople who didn’t have great results but try to prove otherwise with their graphs and statistics... For example, when you explain that France isn’t so badly off in terms of fuel prices compared to other European countries, of course, it’s Europe—we’re all in the same boat, except maybe Luxembourg. We feel like you’re taking us for idiots. If I had to show you that France is still the world champion in taxes, I’d explain it like this: who are the most polluting countries in the world? Let’s say China, India, Russia, and the United States, to name a few. These are countries with areas 15 to 20 times larger than France, where people drive much more polluting vehicles than our European cars, which, by the way, aren’t always made in Europe, and consume much more. Why in these countries are fuel prices around 0.70 to 0.80 € cents? Certainly for the energy transition!!! Do you really think that even if we pay 2 € or more per liter of fuel nationally, given the difference in area, population, number of vehicles, and industries, we’re going to solve the world’s climate change problems alone?? Have you even looked at a world map to see how small our country is compared to the rest of the planet? And you think you’re credible when you try to explain this to people who can’t make ends meet or survive day to day? What planet are you living on?? Back to these yellow vests, these reckless people who want to block the country because of rising fuel prices...... You still don’t understand, gentlemen?? All these people are gathering because they’re fed up...... fed up with increases, taxes, toll prices, taxes on everything we have to pay in daily life—heating, fines, speed cameras, parking, the list goes on. They’re fed up with enduring annual increases for over 40 years—EDF, gas, fruits, vegetables, meat, fish, bread—all these raw materials that constantly enrich industry and big corporations, your friends!!! We’re not idiots, as you like to think. We’re aware that the world’s resources aren’t infinite, but those who exhaust them are mainly industrial lobbies greedy for dividends for their shareholders, who clear forests, empty entire regions of the world to plunder their wealth, pollute the air, rivers, drinking water of peoples worldwide under the pretext of so-called fair trade. I ask you, who are the biggest polluters????? Now you want to make us feel guilty, us the reckless of France’s lower class. Yes, the lower class because I thought I was part of the middle class, but that was before!!! Because you and your predecessors really picked our pockets. I can be a bit objective, though, because this has been going on for over 40 years. Yet you said you wanted to unite and change that, but you’re worse. They sold us the first oil shocks—we’d have to make sacrifices. Then Europe and the euro, which were supposed to solve unemployment and boost growth!!! Then the crisis—more sacrifices. Then the banking system’s bankruptcy and its debt. Let’s talk about the banking system, which gorged itself for decades, didn’t anticipate the crisis at all, like any self-respecting business leader would. But it’s true, we live in the France of the lower class, idiots who don’t think, so we had to make sacrifices again because it was us who paid for their mistakes and schemes. Then our social system because we cost too much—you know, that crazy money!!! It’s funny when I go to the doctor—or should I say when I manage to get an appointment, because it’s become an obstacle course with medical deserts and the lack of hospitals due to the services you’re cutting in France’s provinces. Anyway, I finally get the golden ticket, a prescription for 4 medications. Off to the pharmacy—bad news, 3 medications aren’t reimbursed. By the way, can you remind me why I pay into social security and a supplementary health plan? But luckily, you’ll invent zero out-of-pocket costs—another gimmick that will cost us dearly. Anyway, we’ll have to make more sacrifices, and more, and more...... Then the crisis again, and now ecology because it’s still our fault, this damn climate change. Tell me, in 20 years, what will you blame us and our children for next? You talk about ecology, energy transition—bravo, you’ve certainly just discovered this recently. So we must rush everything and switch now to all-electric, a collective delusion of the France of the elite and its bobo intellectuals. Indeed, an electric car runs clean, but what’s its carbon footprint over its lifetime—manufacturing, extracting minerals we don’t have here? No problem, we’ll drive clean but destroy and pollute elsewhere—it won’t be visible, at least not right away. When we see the current ecological impact just for phone batteries, and car batteries are X times larger in volume, thus much more resource-hungry, we’re driving electric.... Imagine the evening when we get home and need to recharge our clean cars. Yes, in the countryside, no charging station—you have to wait until you get home. Imagine the consumption peak in the evening and winter with heating on top. Especially since we’ll also have to get rid of our oil tanks. By the way, how do you plan to generate all this electricity?? With wind turbines?? Maybe you’ll force us to install one in our garden!!! As JM Bigard says in one of his sketches, let’s say I have my clean car and drive clean. What happens in case of an accident—damaged batteries or vehicle fire... oh right, it’s a clean car, so the smoke is clean and non-toxic!!! Seriously, do you believe in this clean car!!! And what do I do with my old batteries?? Well, we’ll put them with our old radioactive nuclear waste, buried—no one will see anything. Bravo, eco-gentlemen, what a great idea. I forgot to mention the French people, murderous assassins who drive diesel, killing 130 people a day. Funny, 4-5 years ago, it was said that diesel with a particle filter was less polluting than gasoline. Today, this diesel is to be scrapped, except there’s maybe still 2 years of credit left, and buying a future electric killer—well, today it doesn’t pollute, like diesel a few years ago, but by then, we’ll have new lords dictating new rules. Anyway, we’ll have to take out another 4- or 5-year credit. Yes, the trade-in value of this now unsellable diesel barely covers the old loan balance, but that doesn’t count—it doesn’t affect the budget since it’s not taxes, it’s not me!!! ⚠️ Great, no more fuel to pay for, but electricity, which isn’t expensive today because few drive this way, will certainly be increased very quickly once everyone uses it. I’m not worried—they’ll think of us by then, the new lords!!! Oh, I forgot to add battery rental, about 150 to 250 € per month depending on the vehicle... funny!!! That’s roughly what diesel costs today.... spot the mistake!!! So, my lords B LE MAIRE and G DARMANIN, where’s the savings????? Oh right, there’s the grant.... a drop in the ocean, because to get this electric car, you’ll have to take out a 20,000 € loan. That way, we’ll go to work to pay even more, since we’ll have to cover this extra expense. Meanwhile, the France of the elite takes planes, uses big non-polluting boats—sorry, non-taxed on their fuel. Reduce the number of planes, travel less far, stay in the country—it’ll help you get closer to the French and understand them better. Relocate manufacturing instead of chartering polluting cargo ships sailing in deplorable conditions on our oceans, losing their fuel, polluting our seas, beaches, and air—these floating cemeteries flying Philippine flags coming from China, Korea... true, labor is cheaper there, allowing even more dividends for your friends!!! I almost forgot the main thing—our leaders, so concerned about ecology, why don’t you set an example when you travel.... Example: our prime minister and other politicians—for you, planes, helicopters, motorcades of vehiclesssss to shake a few hands for an hour. Remind me of the carbon footprint of these trips?? Our president, his world tours, commemorations, and his walk in eastern France—a motorcade of how many vehiclesssss—10-15???? How much carbon footprint again???? The arrival of foreign heads of state last week, Mr. Trump and his wife’s lightning visit to the Élysée—two cars, a limousine and a big SUV for Madame, how much CO2 plus Air Force One to cross the Atlantic??? And meanwhile, we’re supposed to carpool to work!!! Seriously, stop mocking us. You harass us with your energy transition. Why didn’t you develop biofuels? You preferred we breathe fine particles?? Why the green diesel made from rapeseed, marketed over 10 years ago—74 E.Leclerc stations sold it under the name Diester, and then nothing!!! Ethanol to replace gasoline—other countries use it, we very little. LPG—same as Diester, nothing left. Hydrogen—still too expensive and underdeveloped. Hybrid too...... So, gentlemen, why has this energy transition you care so much about been dragging on for over 20 years, and why is it still us who have to pay for your lack of reactivity??? So electric—why not in big cities and for certain applications, but everywhere and for everyone—it’s just a delusion. The end of combustion engines in 2040—a utopia??? End of diesel in big cities by 2024, and tonight I hear Ms. Caroline JANVIER say we can buy a used diesel to benefit from the grant—it’s impossible to understand anything??? Don’t make commitments you won’t keep, because you’ll lose even more credibility, and you don’t have much left. To all this, add your contempt, your arrogance—you who try to divide the country to rule better, who pit all French people against each other, who send your CRS against families or retirees demonstrating, while you let thugs burn, stone, your police, firefighters, gendarmes in neighborhoods they’ve taken hostage, all without doing anything, except saying on TV that it’s intolerable, unacceptable, that the culprits will face severe penalties. They’re never found, and no one talks about it anymore. But it’s true, you prefer taking selfies with thugs!!! You who live royally thanks to your indecent incomes, which represent your pocket money since we also pay for your trips, your expenses. You reform all corporations, cut many benefits everywhere, but you’re very careful not to touch your privileged status as senior civil servants. You continue to live in opulence, squander public money without counting, never set an example, and aren’t irreproachable—that’s why we’re angry, that’s why we don’t believe you anymore. Unfortunately, there isn’t a single political party, whatever it is, that doesn’t have one or more members who’ve had legal troubles. This justice, which for us is now just a word because its meaning is lost, only exists for thugs, aggressors, killers, whom you take the greatest care of—gyms, TV, recently PlayStations—while our elders live and die in your overpriced nursing homes, and even there, you pick their pockets, all in the greatest indifference. After that, you still say you don’t understand the French people’s anger. It’s also because of this that it’s much more serious than you imagine, because this apolitical citizen gathering is the result of your choices. There are workers, executives, shopkeepers, artisans, police officers, firefighters, paramedics, nurses, truckers, business leaders, retirees...... that’s what I wanted to tell you..... Listen, because tonight you say you understand, but you still don’t listen. So, Mr. Macron, you still have a choice—to leave, to stay, to decide what legacy you want to leave in our children’s and grandchildren’s history books... Will you finally understand and get closer to the people you were supposed to unite? Do you want to become the best president France has ever had, or do you want to become the worst dictator this country will ever have? Think about it—now it’s up to you, but are you even capable?? Signed: An average Frenchman, who has always worked, receives no aid, pays at all levels, and drives 50 km a day to work—too bad...... so he’ll still get nothing.... ⚠️

NOT SO SIMPLE, ALL THIS! I head back toward the Robine canal, but night has fallen. Fortunately, I’ve already ridden along its banks several times. The lighting gives it a different charm.

The fairground setup and the Christmas market chalets are underway. Good for GDP—unless the revolt grows. I enter the historic center.



Before going back, I notice that on the eve of the 24th Climate Conference, streets are still being heated, as I observed in Copenhagen when I was biking with 50 cyclists to Paris for COP21: voyageforum.com/...st=7138190;a=7138190 It’s not just the French who have no sense of smell—the Poles don’t either. In Katowice, a city of 3.5 million where it’s taking place, they don’t smell the pollution from burning coal for heating, living in permanent smog. Yet 50,000 Poles die each year from air pollution.

At the apart-hotel, no selective sorting for my soup carton (bad! I should’ve cooked vegetables before leaving and brought them in a reusable container). I ask the reception when returning my badge. They tell me a request for a yellow bin was made but not fulfilled. Since I’m going to the Urban Community (see next story), I ask if Greater Narbonne wants to bury or incinerate waste. They answer indifferently, and I learn that this bin would be paid for. Finally, they advise me to contact a recycling ambassador: services.legrandnarbonne.com/...ambassadors...

As a participant in *Plus Belle La Voie 2017* (a cycling event open to all, organized by the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur regional delegation of AF3V, aiming to promote *La Méditerranée à vélo* to local stakeholders and the general public): voyageforum.com/...st=8171679;a=8171679 and 2018, for which I haven’t yet written a travel journal but have uploaded my photos: share.orange.fr/#D70OJJmPKi3cbfedf238 (To view them in order, open this link. Click on "date d’ajout" and select "nom" then "ordre croissant" (up arrow) to see them chronologically). Since the number of files is limited to 1000, the rest are here: share.orange.fr/#GZR5uKrOkh3cbfedf2f7 My video: share.orange.fr/...kOJZYggemF1c27478385 I was invited to the roundtable with socio-professional stakeholders of *La Méditerranée à vélo* in Narbonne on November 28th. Organized by the coordination of *La Méditerranée à vélo* in partnership with the Aude Department, the Aude Tourisme development agency, the Grand Narbonne agglomeration, and Grand Narbonne Tourisme. To share my experience as a cycle-tourist.

After the opening by Édouard Rocher, Vice-President in charge of Transport and Intermodality for the Grand Narbonne Agglomeration Community, Didier Aldebert, Aude Departmental Councilor, explained that for once, the departments are working together on the route, which is the French section of EuroVelo 8: www.lamediterraneeavelo.org/, with a strong commitment to developing tourism.

Pascal Roca presented the Aude Departmental Cycling Plan, adopted in 2017.



Development of the cycling network backbone (261 km of identified routes): V81 Pyrenees Foothills: 60 km in Aude – cycle route completed and signposted. www.af3v.org/...e-VVV-.html?voie=372

EuroVelo 8: 60 km on towpaths, bridle paths, and dedicated lanes will be developed by Grand Narbonne in the short to long term, including the Canal de la Robine. www.af3v.org/...he-VVV-.html?voie=38 A route committee has been set up to implement the French section of the route, led by the Sud region.

V84 Rigole de la Plaine: 20 km of this cycle route (under study). Extension of the Haute-Garonne greenway: www.af3v.org/...e-VVV-.html?voie=184 will be built on the service path of the Rigole in the long term, from the Seuil de Naurouze. The development hasn’t been approved by the DREAL site inspection www.occitanie.developpement-durable.gouv.fr/...... They want it to remain natural and open to hikers.

V80 Canal du Midi: www.canaldes2mersavelo.com/ 121 km, mostly on towpaths, will be developed in the short or medium term by the department. Feasibility study completed. A provisional signposting ensuring continuity has been defined (with the risk of it becoming permanent). The development faces challenges due to the felling and replanting of plane trees along the canal and the UNESCO World Heritage status of Pierre-Paul Riquet’s work. The ministry has approved the development of a first 25 km section between Argeliers (border with Hérault) and Homps, subject to respecting certain architectural constraints for engineering structures. While asphalt has been widely used on the Canal Latéral à la Garonne and the 50 km of the Canal du Midi in Haute-Garonne, it will be banned here (it should have been done 20 years ago). A hydraulic binder mix will be used. When I asked about durability, Pascal Roca replied that it depends on the amount of stabilized material and binder used, as well as the quality of the installation. Feedback from a section near Carcassonne has been positive so far. When I asked about the impact of the October 15th floods on the progress or delay of the cycle path, he said there was none since there’s no project yet for that section. I asked if the refurbishment choices of Voies Navigables de France (owner of the canal) would take into account the future use of the towpath. It seems difficult (it’s not a priority), but there are ongoing discussions. What’s certain is that the consequences of these torrential rains were significant due to the lack of bank maintenance. Finally, during the buffet, I asked him if, despite all these constraints but also with the government’s favorable policies for cycling, we could hope to "ride" on the Canal du Midi by 2025. He replied, "maybe." I think he’s working toward that.

Development of complementary routes (195 km of pre-identified routes):

The greenway along the Canal du Midi to Montségur on the old railway line, starting from Bram, will be completed in the short term for the 47 km in Aude: www.ladepeche.fr/...-voie-est-verte.html

The Rigole de la Montagne Noire: 20 km. Will be developed in the long term; the feasibility study was interrupted. The path will remain as is, open to pedestrians, hikers, and mountain bikers. The site’s geographical isolation won’t allow heavy traffic even with major infrastructure.

Carcassonne-Quillan link: 50 km on secondary roads, route to be defined.

Carcassonne-Quillan link: 40 km on low-traffic secondary roads, route to be defined.

Via Domitia Narbonne-Béziers: 15 km on low-traffic secondary roads, route to be defined.

The coastal axis: 25 km on shared roads and dedicated lanes. Would extend the EV8 coastal route north of Port-la-Nouvelle. It’s advisable to coordinate with the Hérault Department for the connection to Béziers (departmental plan revised in 2014).

Secondary axes (routes to be defined): Serving tourist hubs from the backbone.

Local loops (routes to be defined): 500 km of cycling links on departmental roads. Network between tourist hubs and sports routes.

ROUNDTABLE: SERVICES + BIKE OR HOW TO BETTER WELCOME CYCLISTS TO YOUR AREA?

Camille Perretta from Vélo Loisir Provence moderated.



Ségolène Chignard, cycling project manager for the Sud Region, presented updates on *La Méditerranée à vélo* and the 2017 attendance study summary: www.lamediterraneeavelo.org/...io-economiques-2... 80% of the route was signposted by June 2018. The collective momentum launched since 2017 has paid off: over 800 km are now open to the public, covered by nearly continuous signposting. This major advancement offers real possibilities for multi-day cycling trips on *La Méditerranée à vélo*. The route’s opening was accompanied by the distribution of a travel journal, thanks to contributions from 21 partners.

The deployment strategy for the *Accueil Vélo* brand in Aude – Dorian Mateos, Aude Tourisme Development Agency. Structuring, qualifying, and developing the cycling sector. Presentation of the *Accueil Vélo* label. www.francevelotourisme.com/accueil-velo Initiatives and good examples: Castelnaudary Lauragais Audois Tourist Office – Adeline Pech. www.legrandbassin.net/la-maison

Following a call for projects by VNF, an 18-year concession was signed for a guesthouse in a lock-keeper’s house in Castelnaudary. The candidates were selected based on their commitment (e.g., organizing lotteries for the foundation www.replantonslecanaldumidi.fr/fr).

Languedoc VTT Évasion – Jean-Michel Soulias. Headquartered in Narbonne. Guided activities on the La Clape massif. Seasonal container on the Canal de la Robine. Bike rentals with suggested routes (map and repair kit provided). Information and advice, e.g., taking the train back from Port-la-Nouvelle in case of Tramontane winds. Assistance if needed.

After the Q&A with representatives from various Tourist Offices involved in the route,



we went down to the vault room. (Grand Narbonne set up offices in the former Banque de France counters that occupied the building). For a lovely buffet offered by the Department.

Afterward, Sylvie Palpant from the *La Méditerranée à Vélo* coordination asked Alain Michel, from the French Association for the Development of Cycle Routes and Greenways (AF3V), organizer of *Plus Belle La Voie*,

He organized his first advocacy cycling trip in 2011, with only 4 participants, advised by the AF3V President, who had organized one in Lorraine. In 2012, for Aix-Arles, there were 8 participants. In October 2013, 16 participants stayed in hard accommodations on the ViaRhôna. In 2014, as AF3V’s national secretary, he took part in the Vienna-Nantes ride on EuroVelo 6 (me too): www.nantesmetropole.fr/...70991.kjsp?RH=WEB_FR In 2015, Tarascon-Le Caylar. In 2017 and 2018, reserving campgrounds allowed 40 participants (some rented mobile homes or bungalows). Partnering with Vélo Loisir Provence made organization easier, enriched visits with help from Tourist Offices, and facilitated meetings with elected officials. This year, 20 men and 19 women signed up, and with the team, there were even more female cyclists. Gender parity was also respected with one journalist in the first week and another in the second. We got to see their photos and videos. As members of the collective lespouletsbicyclettes.org/, they were destined to cover our expedition.

For the 7th edition, Alain plans to ride from Nice to Sainte-Marie-de-la-Mer via the V65 in September 2019.

Then Richard and I, as bike campers, were invited to answer a series of questions:

How did you hear about this cycling trip? Was this your first advocacy cycling trip? What motivated you to join Alain on this adventure? Was it the group aspect? Or were you curious to discover the route?

Can you describe a typical day? How many km did you cover on average per day? Were you satisfied with the accommodations? How did you get to the starting points for each edition? Did you encounter any difficulties with train transport? Are the routes scouted in advance? What’s the general atmosphere like? How do the local authorities welcome you? Who’s involved? Did you enjoy these two editions? Did one stand out more than the other?

Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to answer all of them. To answer the first two, I tried to introduce myself quickly, explaining that 25 years ago, when I arrived in Tarn-et-Garonne, it was the towpath of the Canal Latéral à la Garonne that got me into cycling. Because it’s flat, car-free, through the countryside, and even through the heart of towns (without it, I might never have started). After joining www.af3v.org/index.php, I discovered advocacy rides. I used my bike for daily commutes and professional trips thanks to the towpath’s transformation into a greenway. I wanted to talk about major train issues, especially in Narbonne (see the end of this post: voyageforum.com/...st=8188298;a=8188298).

Finally, Pierre-Luc Lauze from the Béziers Méditerranée Agglomeration Community (who hosted and guided us during both editions) had to answer the question:

What do local authorities gain from hosting these events?

To wrap up,

Ms. Manogil Rose-Marie, Director of the MJC, took us to visit the *ACCUEIL VÉLO* site (Narbonne International Stay Center). Visit of the *ACCUEIL VÉLO* site (Narbonne International Stay Center).

On that occasion, I asked if I could have stayed there the night before. Unfortunately, no, because it’s only possible when the center is already open for a group.

We were treated to refreshments

before the final group photo.

Thanks to everyone for this amazing adventure: www.lamediterraneeavelo.org/...u-22-septembre-2...

I took part in the bike tour organized by Cyclotranseurope between Le Havre and Basel: eurovelo3.fr/rando2019/ It's hard to sum up the 1,240 km I covered in 3 weeks with just a 3-minute video to download here: share.orange.fr/#4P4DiuUHc812d1310ee9 Thanks to the organizers. To view the photos in order from Le Havre to Basel: replace "date added" with name and click the up arrow (ascending order) on this link: share.orange.fr/#LxGR7N7xAp460a3632e6

It was great, but you can tell it was hot! Thanks Gilles.

Sunday, December 15th. Since my wife, as a volunteer, is stuck under the big top for the last three performances of www.noelencirque.fr/ and the forecasted weather is very mild, I decide to head out on the www.canal-et-voie-verte.com/Le-Canal-de-la-Garonne. From my home in Valence d’Agen, I quickly reach the old towpath (I remind you that it’s what gave me my love for bike travel). A bit of mist greets me:



But the sun, already strong at 9 AM, is so bright that it lights up the moon in broad daylight.

Since there was a lot of wind on Friday (the windy day), there’s plenty of debris on the path.

With the sun in my eyes, it’s hard to see the road in the shade, which is made even darker by my sunglasses. After just 8 km, I lose my balance when my front wheel hits a piece of branch, nearly ending this new adventure—luckily, I recover in a split second.

After 10 km, I reach the Malause dam. I pass near the Saint-Nicolas-de-la-Grave water reservoir, created at the confluence of the Tarn and the Garonne (which gave its name to my department) to supply the Golfech hydroelectric plant. hmf.enseeiht.fr/...ei/nome36/n36b02.htm The Garonne is carrying lots of debris and even tree trunks.

After 20 km, I enter Moissac.



At the Napoléon Bridge, the Tarn has flooded the Greenway and the road.



There are even waves!

I later used this photo to testify about climate change: https://laffairedusiecle.net/temoin-du-climat/#Screen_4 I ask an elderly lady walking her dog. As a local from Moissac, she confirms she’s never seen anything like this. The road along the Tarn is closed.



I won’t need to ask the town hall to close access to the Greenway along the banks—the water’s taking care of that. See here: voyageforum.com/...st=6885471;a=6885471



There are fishermen on the road near the mill turned into a hotel and spa. This weekend, mud baths are free.

At the canal bridge in Moissac (where the canal crosses over the Tarn), the banks are flooded. This reminds me of a painful event. In 1930, floods devastated part of the city. The Tarn overflowed, sweeping away 1,400 houses, causing 120 deaths, and leaving 6,000 homeless. This exceptional flood destroyed the railway bridge, forcing the temporary relocation of the railway onto the canal bridge. www.youtube.com/watch?v=TLyHCeone14

After Castelsarrasin, the Greenway is blocked by a tree, but luckily, it can be bypassed.



After 40 km, I reach Montech.

I ask at the Bistrot Constant if I can have lunch.

Today, it’s brunch, but all the tables are taken. I have to wait 30 minutes.



I ask if I can eat on the terrace, and I’m told I can serve myself right away.

Previously, I’d found the Caesar salad “fit for the Ritz” bland and not very filling. This time, my taste buds are in for a treat: garnished oysters, prawns, foie gras pâté, mixed salads, cold cuts. I skip the cheese but try all the desserts, including two Yule logs. Only the coffee one (since I don’t like that flavor) and the bland floating island don’t get a 10/10.



At 1:15 PM, I pay the 45 € bill and ask if they’ll be throwing away any pastries. I leave with a milk bun and a raisin one. I cross the canal to join the junction with Montauban on the other bank.

See the history here: voyageforum.com/...post=1919131#1919131

I come across a few cyclists enjoying this recent Greenway. www.af3v.org/...e-VVV-.html?voie=421



After 55 km, I reach the port of Montauban, equipped with a lock to descend into the Tarn.



voyageforum.com/...st=7548157;a=7548157 The site limits to 20 photos per post (see the next one).

From the port, a bike route is now available to reach the city center.



The Tarn is quite muddy.



And the sun is shining brightly.



After 57 km, I reach the Ingres Museum, which reopens this weekend after 3 years of renovations.



For the occasion, both self-guided and guided tours are free. I choose to follow the guide, whose presentation focuses on the building’s renovation. She first takes us to a room dedicated to Émile-Antoine Bourdelle, born on October 30, 1861, in Montauban, to a father who was a cabinetmaker. From a young age, young Émile Antoine preferred drawing to studying. Bourdelle showed astonishing precocity in creating his first wooden sculptures. Trained in Toulouse, he later became a renowned sculptor in Paris.

Next, we step into the world of painter Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres (1780–1867).

His father, also a painter, reproduced some of his works (the reverse is more common).



I notice that this "pet peeve" of Ingres painted a lot of nudes. There are also many works by other artists where women are undressed (which has upset feminists). Eventually, you start wondering if it’s art or just inappropriate.

Next, I visit the basement, which has retained more character.

Kudos to Montauban, the Tarn-et-Garonne Department, and the Occitanie Region for this successful renovation that highlights the works.



I find my bike, which I had securely locked to avoid any nasty surprises. You’ve probably gathered that cycling is my "pet passion," and I don’t want anyone to stop me from enjoying it. (Added on 12/22/19: Following a phone call from a fellow cyclist I traveled with in a group, I should clarify that my bike is not electric. He was doubtful when he saw my gearbox integrated into the pedal crank. See how it works here: voyageforum.com/...st=8207147;a=8207147 ) At 3:45 PM, I start the journey back. My eye is drawn to a mural at a preschool.

And to the outdoor temperature display.

I can say without a doubt that climate change is real. Just days before the winter solstice and Christmas, I was able to have lunch on a terrace. Thanks to all the greenhouse gas producers—because of them, I can now bike in winter.

Here’s the passage that lets you go under the railway tracks. It’s easy to find now that the route is marked (though you still have to duck). All this proves that bicycles and art can coexist beautifully if you have a well-designed and safe route that lets one meet the other.

Sunday, December 15th, conclusion. I leave the port of Montauban, where many walkers are enjoying the mild weather, taking the Voie Verte along the Montech canal in the opposite direction.



This new bridge is beautiful in the sunlight!



This connecting canal is fed by water from the lateral canal of the Garonne. I’m following it in the opposite direction compared to this morning.

The machines of the Montech water slope are rusting slowly but surely.

It was used to avoid 5 locks. I hope this industrial heritage will be restored before it’s too late. www.ladepeche.fr/...-de-leau,8351803.php



The detour to avoid construction on an old bridge is well signposted in both directions.

Before nightfall, I reach Castelsarrasin. I plan to recharge my energy on a bench at the Jacques Yves Cousteau port. But I’d rather accept a friend’s offer of tea (to go with my pastries)—she lives on the road in front of the port. She suggests I put my bike in her garage. When I tell her I came from Montauban, she asks where my car is. I reply that it’s in Valence d'Agen. She worries about me riding at night and points out there’s no lighting on the canal. She even offers to drive me back, but I show her my bike is equipped with both low and high beams, and I put on my yellow vest (very trendy).

I pass by the footbridge in

Moissac.

I can see the road better than this morning when it was backlit.

Still, I’m relieved to take the same route, knowing the tricky spots already.



In Moissac, there’s no more water on the road and the Voie Verte. They’re almost dry.

The recent Malause bridge is beautifully highlighted.



I return to my town

and its lights.



This adventure comes to an end.

I left at 9 AM and got home at 8 PM (my wife won’t be back from the circus until 11 PM). I covered 113 km in 11 hours, averaging 10 km/h. My odometer says I was riding for 7 hours, which makes sense with 1 hour for lunch, 1.5 hours at the museum, 30 minutes for tea, and 2 hours of various stops—especially to take 159 photos. It also shows I rode at an average speed of 16 km/h.

I could’ve gone by electric car, but my wife needed the Zoé. One thing’s for sure—I wouldn’t have gone in our gas car. There are few trains on Sundays, and even fewer during these strike days.

Sometimes common sense wins: www.20minutes.fr/...rungis-nouveau-rails

And other times, it doesn’t: www.europe1.fr/...tomber-a-leau-3933759 It would’ve been too good. We wouldn’t have found plastic bottles in the streets, ditches, rivers, or the sea as much.

A few more thoughts for a less sunny day: www.arsindustrialis.org/

A day like this is my Christmas. But it’s not the most beautiful one. The most beautiful is this: www.youtube.com/watch?v=K4xmqA_g5BI

Tuesday, December 24. Since the weather is mild, I decide to return to Castelsarrasin via the www.canaldes2mersavelo.com/. Hoping to find the black glove I lost on my way back from Montauban (see my 3 previous posts). I already went as far as Malause on Thursday without finding it. As luck would have it, it was brand new and touchscreen-compatible, so I could take photos without taking it off. Unlike the worn-out ones I use today.



At the port of Valence d’Agen, the machines used to install

sheet piles (see here: voyageforum.com/...st=5034626;a=5034626) are enjoying their Christmas break. Some cyclists braver than me have pitched their tents.

I spot a brand-new sign.

Two walkers and I agree it’s obvious, but sometimes it’s good to repeat things. Repetition is a teaching tool: www.youtube.com/watch?v=fZkDhgaL-Io (Stay with EDF as long as there’s still a bit of public service left). You should know that the state forces EDF to sell 25% of its nuclear reactor output to competitors at low prices, while at the same time, public authorities raise regulated tariffs so that electricity resellers (who aren’t even producers) can make a good profit just by trading kWh bought and sold (and yet people say civil servants are parasites and lazy). The worst part is that some Enedis agencies (formerly ERDF, EDF Distribution) have chosen Direct Energie as their supplier. My God, how ugly our society is when profit is its only driving force! On that note, an Enedis contractor came to install a Linky meter. Afterward, I was asked to rate the service. I replied that I couldn’t give an overall rating. If it’s about whether I’m happy to see my old meter (which will be scrapped) replaced with a new one that won’t benefit me at great cost to the community, I’d give it a 0. As for the intervention itself, I was satisfied. I even got to test my 30 mA differential circuit breakers before the necessary power cut—something we’re supposed to do every month. I’ve never done it in 20 years because it cuts the power and risks damaging appliances in use.

I took my recumbent tricycle: voyageforum.com/...st=6951448;a=6951448 This time, I don’t risk losing my balance. I asked my optician about the problem with sunglasses that make it hard to see obstacles on the road in the shade. Just to remind you, I’ve always been nearsighted—with 0/10 vision, I can’t see the biggest letters on the distance test. I’m a bit astigmatic and, of course, with age, presbyopic and even a pain. The only advantage is that myopia compensates for presbyopia, and up close, without glasses, I can see very small letters.

So I can’t go without corrective lenses for distance vision, and I’ve always had the problem, for example, when going from full sun into a tunnel on my motorcycle—there was no way to see without correction (above or below the lenses) even though I’ve had photochromic lenses since 1980. They don’t change tint fast enough.

He didn’t suggest a solution except for clip-on sunglasses over my corrective lenses, which you lift before going into the shade. That gives you Mickey Mouse ears. Well, he does offer sports-style glasses that make this function a little less ridiculous.

He was swamped with the rollout of www.lesechos.fr/...mbourse-a-100-143280 the 100% coverage plan (split between Social Security and supplemental insurance, for a limited amount).

Starting January 1, 2020, all opticians must offer frames for a maximum of 30 €. Each store must have 17 models for adults and 10 for children, each in two colors. Lenses must all be thinned, scratch-resistant, and anti-reflective. Their maximum price will depend on the type of correction. For example, for “moderate” myopia (between -2 and -4), the price will be limited to 75 € for both eyes. The maximum price for glasses in this case, for example, will be 105 €, fully covered by Social Security and supplemental insurance.

This will help many people who were giving up on getting the glasses they need for their vision. The government is pulling off a cheap PR stunt because these will be low-end models with anti-reflective lenses they’d never dare offer their customers. They’ll just be middlemen: the glasses will be made in China, where even the lenses will be assembled. While the choice of frames will be limited, the ecological impact won’t be, due to transportation. And the social impact will be catastrophic. This is how the government solves solidarity fund problems by exploiting low-cost workers with insufficient social protection. They could’ve thought of setting up a factory in France to carry out this mission responsibly, with better-quality products while creating public service jobs (another dirty word). It’s true that opticians take advantage by maximizing clients’ reimbursement rights: Social Security (almost nothing) + supplemental insurance + top-up insurance. What’s certain is that my frame with progressive lenses combining 3 corrections, thinned, anti-reflective, blue-light-blocking, and scratch-resistant for 1000 € will never be 100% reimbursed. Watch the 2-minute video at the bottom of the page: https://www.labanquepostale.fr/particulier/produits/assurances_prevoyance/sante.html Regarding dental care and hearing, the zero out-of-pocket policy will lead to an increase in mutual insurance contributions already planned for the coming years.

But the downside of three wheels is that the probability of hitting a pothole, rut, or branch is much higher. The road between Valence d’Agen and Malause is in poor condition. Luckily, my Scorpion is full suspension (fs). Hence the expression “mind your own business.” I took care of mine by maxing out the options on my tricycle. Philippe Lasnier, who went all the way to the North Cape to mark his retirement with a recumbent tricycle and trailer: www.ladepeche.fr/...asnier-medaille.html (I was there when he gave his presentation upon returning) told me I’d bought the Rolls-Royce of recumbent tricycles. The advantage is it’s cheaper than a car. He organizes group rides. I happily took part in this one: voyageforum.com/...st=7072067;a=7072067 His wife Martine thought my orange flag (sold by the manufacturer) wasn’t visible enough, so she sewed pieces of a yellow vest (I’m always in style) and orange onto it.

I thank them both. lerenard51100.over-blog.com/...martine-lasnier....

www.as3r.fr/index.html



Luckily, each of my wheels is suspended because the Greenway is cracked.

Sometimes potholes have been patched.

The lockkeeper isn’t on strike. It would be pointless to protest this way since navigation is closed from October 31 to April 1—it wouldn’t have much impact.

They say the canal is “en chômage” (shut down): www.arcao.fr/...du-canal-de-montech/ www.simonszand.net/Chomages.html It’s not the only one. My 30-year-old son was left high and dry when the apple harvest season ended. www.ladepeche.fr/...er-du-sud-ouest.html This year again, he’s forced to play Santa in a shopping mall to earn some money and pay into his social security and retirement.

Here he is with his sister and brother.



It’s tough for young people today. You really have to believe in it! He should consider himself lucky because, with pension cuts, in the future, young people will compete for odd jobs with retirees forced to work, and seniors will have a more suitable profile for this kind of job. “Everything comes to those who wait.” I was being mean when I said everyone would lose with the reform promised by President Macron. Actually, there will be winners: www.youtube.com/watch?v=iq0V79GC0lI

As usual, I pull over to let the Voies Navigables de France vehicle pass. But with the tricycle, I have to park completely. I always give priority to the service, whether at a restaurant or supermarket. It’s worth remembering that the towpath belongs to VNF and has only been open to pedestrians and cyclists for a few years. Since this is a Greenway, it should allow use by people with reduced mobility and rollerbladers. But given the road’s condition, it’s off-putting! Nothing like the perfectly smooth asphalt of highways. Of course! You’ll tell me they’re toll roads. Maybe roads and bike paths should be too to be maintained. It’s already the case with fuel taxed at 75%—there’s enough to fund them. But France can no longer afford to maintain its road network: www.francetvinfo.fr/...degrade_3694905.html So don’t even ask the president of my Departmental Council to maintain bike paths. And yet, that’s exactly what I just did again:

Gilles ROULAND 4 rue Pierre Perret 82400 VALENCE d’AGEN December 22, 2019

Subject: Congratulations

Madame la Présidente of the Occitanie Region, Monsieur le Président of the Tarn-et-Garonne Departmental Council, Madame la Maire of Montauban,

I congratulate you on the renovation of the Ingres Bourdelle Museum. I promoted it online here: voyageforum.com/v.f?post=9855414;a=9855414

I congratulate you on the creation of the Greenway along the lateral canal to the Garonne, the Montech canal, and the signposting of the cycling route between the port of Montauban and the historic center. I hope to soon promote the new developments, including the two sculptures and the bandstand, if I can still ride on a signposted, safe, and maintained route. From my home in Valence d’Agen, I wouldn’t have thought of going to Montauban by bike without these Greenways.

While France is finally talking about prioritizing soft mobility, I hope that in 2020, you’ll focus on creating facilities that make cycling easier in cities, throughout the department, and the region. And especially on allowing access to trains and buses for non-dismantled bicycles, so people can, for example, go to Montauban or Toulouse and return by public transport.

Looking forward to your response, I wish you and your families happy holidays. I’m tempted to speed up over this speed bump like I used to in my carefree days (I even once rode 2000 km from Rouen to Canet Plage on the highway with my 1100 YAMAHA shaft drive for the 3-day Bastille Day weekend—the only days off I had that summer in 1981), when I rode a SUZUKI DR 350 whose suspensions were designed to handle bumps.

After this shared section of the path, allowing residents to access their homes, I reach the Malause treatment plant, which supplies my town with drinking water from the Garonne:

www.malause.fr/...nt-deau-potable.html



Born in Rouen, Normandy, where the water is very hard (chalky plateau), I was surprised to measure a hardness of 50 °TH at the tap when I moved to Castelsarrasin, whereas this hardness, which combines calcium and magnesium ions, was only 40 °TH in my hometown. This water was pumped from the water table. It was gradually diluted with Garonne water to comply with the regulatory limit of 50 mg/l for nitrates in drinking water. These come from chemical fertilizers abundantly spread in our agricultural region. Nitrates turn into nitrites, which are carcinogenic. Regulations therefore require a concentration of NO3- below 50 mg/l. It must be much lower for babies and pregnant women. In Valence d’Agen, the water has a hardness of 12 °TH like the Garonne, and I don’t need to regenerate my dishwasher’s water softener with salt (NaCl). Should we still be happy to drink “drinking” water from the Garonne? For example, environmental protectors accused the Golfech power plant of releasing radioactive iodine. It turned out this radioactive element came from Toulouse hospitals, where it’s used as a tracer:

www.lvd82.fr/...s-de-la-garonne.html

Personally, I run this (lifeblood) water through several filters and invite it to pass through an osmosis membrane (which only water molecules can cross) to eliminate all pollutants (pesticides and the like). Reverse osmosis was developed so astronauts could produce drinking water from their urine.

This isn’t something to take lightly. We forget that we’re aqueous beings despite our “solid” appearance, since water makes up 99% of all substances inside and outside the roughly 10 trillion cells that make us up. However, water only accounts for 65% of our body mass: extranet.editis.com/...3234363834333239.pdf

You shouldn’t swallow just anything, especially not ads telling you that the Ca and Mg in high concentrations in some mineral waters will be good for you. Others think it won’t do more for your bones than sucking on pebbles.

We can only assimilate minerals if they’ve already been processed by another living organism, for example, by plants that absorb the nutrients they need from the soil. This is part of the exchanges between all species on the planet.

Tomatoes have delegated their nutrition to bacteria and fungi. This association is called fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mycorhize.



I notice that the signposts for the Véloroute 80 are misaligned. It’s certainly the strong winds that turned them. But I find this 90° shift suspicious. I don’t have a tool big enough to tighten the clamps on these signs installed in 2007. I just put them back in the right direction. This confirms the need for monitoring and maintenance. I’ve already encountered teams of young people on bikes assigned to this task in the Doubs during a trip on the EuroVelo 6: voyageforum.com/...st=6637644;a=6637644. But it was a summer job. There should be permanent follow-up. Even in winter, the Greenway is used—proof being these winter campers and all the people I meet on foot or by bike. I was about to talk about permanent jobs, but that’s a dirty word. You’d have to pay contributions! They should also pick up branches and debris and why not make them available to those with fireplaces. I’ve always thought that if I had one, I’d come with a bike trailer to stock up on kindling. That would be at the expense of trees, which benefit from the decomposition of debris into humus. This makes me want to relieve myself on a tree to give it nitrogen and phosphorus. Which I do in my garden. My slightly hard braking causes one of my front wheels (the only ones with brakes) to lock due to moss and moisture on the asphalt. This morning, I heard Mathieu Vidard on France Inter: www.franceinter.fr/...rre-24-decembre-2019 Who was discovering the properties of urine. I dare think it was a sketch. Can someone who hosts “Environment news, life and earth science, nature curiosities: 2 minutes 30 every morning to wake up to the planet’s issues” be so ignorant? While the ABCs of ecology are dry toilets (it’s stupid to pump water, filter it, purify it, and disinfect it just to relieve yourself in it and clog up our treatment plants). Only the Swiss think you absolutely must pee in toilets. In Basel (where I saw the famous hole), I was scolded by three people for urinating on a tree. A woman even called me a pig (I expected “French”). Of course, it’s disgusting to pee in an enclosed space under a bridge or on a wall—anywhere it doesn’t rain—and this should be severely punished. The Chinese collect urine from schools where you do your business in separate receptacles (like me with trees/compost) to use in apple cultivation. In Japan, it’s customary to thank your hosts by urinating on a tree in the garden (offering the precious liquid). Victor Hugo in Paris said, “You have gold in your sewers.”

I can’t just criticize, and I’d like to congratulate Rebecca Manzoni for her wonderful analysis of Jacques Brel’s song *Vesoul* on the same station:

www.franceinter.fr/...n-co-02-janvier-2020

But when I did a parody of this song: voyageforum.com/...st=7138190;a=7138190 (3rd video), I didn’t think I was tackling such a monument.

Easy, since at 20, the great Jacques was my favorite singer; at 40, it was Nougaro (that’s called maturity), and today at 60, it’s Maëlle (the beginning of senility):

www.youtube.com/watch?v=kehliTMUdNQ to be continued...