A Bold Combo: Southern Peru, Bolivia, and Northern Chile
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Translated into English.

MA Marati Globetrotter ·
Day 10 - 07/21: Visit to Arequipa

The day exploring Arequipa is shaping up to be a relaxed one. After breakfast on the rooftop terrace of the Foyer, we head to the Santa Catalina Convent, the city’s main attraction.

This massive convent, the largest in the world, spans over 2 hectares and is known for its vibrantly colored buildings and cloisters—indigo blue, brick red, or ochre. You can almost get lost in its many alleys, each named after Andalusian cities.

It’s not just alleys; there are also several cloisters and inner courtyards in the different quarters, each unique.

You’ll lose count of the kitchens—there’s practically one in every house you pass!

Each quarter has its own dominant color and atmosphere...



After this must-see visit to the convent, we continue to the church and monastery of La Recoleta, much less famous and visited, even though it’s just a few blocks away.





From the monastery visit, what stands out most is its library and its many ancient books.

The two cloisters are relatively well-maintained, with some perennial plants in bloom, but the overall design lacks a bit of finesse.



A stroll through the city center leads us to the Church of La Compañía, where the interior is just as remarkable as the exterior façade!



MA Marati Globetrotter ·
After lunch at a no-frills Chinese restaurant, we took a little stroll through the San Camilo market—its stalls are a visual attraction all on their own! What a riot of colors 😅

This stand is a reminder that South America is the continent of potatoes.

La Canasta tea salon is well-known for its pastries, so we stopped by to try several as dessert.



Then, cocktail break during Happy Hour before grabbing a crêpe at La Crepisima. In short, we did nothing but eat and drink today… Perfect for recharging our batteries!

Once night fell, the cathedral opened its doors, letting us visit the interior—far less photogenic than the outside!

After that, we headed back to our hotel to pick up our laundry before rushing to the bus station for another overnight bus that’ll take us straight to Puno, on the shores of Lake Titicaca.
MA Marati Globetrotter ·
Day 11 - 07/22: Lake Titicaca

The vast Lake Titicaca, straddling the borders of Peru and Bolivia, is known for being the highest navigable lake in the world, perched at 3,800 meters above sea level. But it’s so much more than that—it’s a powerful symbol of Andean culture and a sacred place, considered the cradle of the Inca civilization.

The lake plays a significant role in local cultures, whether on its shores or islands, like the ultra-touristy floating Uros Islands.

Despite the lake’s strong symbolism, I wasn’t expecting much from this day, and to be honest, my doubts were quickly confirmed...

Why? The Uros Islands, as a "must-see" of any trip to Peru, have been suffering from over-tourism for years! Everything there has become a business. The so-called farmers, who are supposed to live on these islands, are just putting on a show for tourists. They dress in traditional costumes for the folklore and make gullible visitors believe they live permanently in reed huts... In short, we weren’t tempted by that kind of experience at all.

Given these negative reviews circulating on websites and social media, another form of tourism has developed in the area, with "homestays" on the islands of Taquile, Amantani, or the Llachón peninsula.

You can read plenty of enthusiastic comments about these "authentic" experiences. Tourists, welcomed into villages, rave about how Peruvian host families play music for them, teach them weaving, dress them in traditional costumes, involve them in feeding chickens and other farm animals, or even plowing. But knowing that some of these families host several groups of tourists every day, I struggle to see how the experience can be "authentic."

That’s just my opinion, though, so I wanted to get my family’s take. After discussing it, they agreed with me, and we decided to spend only one day there, even though our tight schedule could have allowed for two.

That said, after reading Carmen’s 3-4 day experience—where she carefully organized her stay on Lake Titicaca off the beaten path—I thought: why not!

During one of our planning evenings, I came across a website explaining that you could buy a ticket directly at the port in Puno to Taquile Island, with a mandatory one-hour stop at the Uros Islands just to "have seen them." According to this account, Taquile Island wasn’t yet ruined by mass tourism.

That’s the option I chose for the day we’d dedicate to the lake. The day started early, as we arrived by overnight bus at 4:30 AM at Puno’s bus terminal!

Shortly after 5 AM, the city began to wake up, and we dropped off our bags at our hotel (reserved for the evening) while grabbing breakfast there.

We then headed to the port. On the long pier, a guy who spoke French ( !!) approached us and offered tickets to Taquile Island, with a stop at the Uros Islands. The prices matched what I had in mind (30 soles for a slow boat, 40 soles for the speedboat).

Since he guaranteed us 3.5 hours on Taquile instead of the standard 1.5 hours, we went for that option, of course 😉!

Once the boat was full, we left the port at 8 AM. Barely underway, a guy introduced himself as the day’s guide... Oops, we hadn’t realized that was part of the deal. Instead of just being dropped off on a Uros Island and then Taquile, it looked like we’d end up in a group.

Our boat passed the first rows of reeds and floating houses,



then arrived at the first floating island. But since another boat was already docked there and tourists were about to disembark, our guide asked the driver to move on.

Too bad—it all looked so perfect for our arrival !



The second island we came to was the right one.

As on the previous island, a whole Peruvian family was waiting for us with a typical boat moored at the edge.

Quickly, half the group boarded the "longship" for a ride, while the other half (including us) listened to the guide’s explanations about how the islands are built and the way of life of the inhabitants. We were then shown the huts, made of reeds, where an entire family supposedly lives (). Inside, there was a mattress, a blanket, and normal clothes—probably the Peruvians’ real clothes before they dressed up for us!

Next, we got a moralizing lecture from the guide, who told us we were on vacation, "relaxing," with financial means, and that all we had to do was pay 20 soles (5 €) per person for a "longship" ride to change their lives.

Then, we witnessed the display of all the souvenirs sold at exorbitant prices. There was major discomfort as the guide insisted people buy something or take the boat ride... Fortunately, a few people handed over some bills so the Peruvians could make their money.

View of the neighboring houses, much less picturesque—probably where these people actually live.



The island we were on was much more appealing!

At least one woman couldn’t care less about us and went about her business.

In the end, between souvenirs and boat rides, our group still spent around $300 in one hour—half the average monthly salary in Peru...

As for us, feeling uncomfortable, we quickly got back on the boat to head to Taquile.

We finally set off for another hour’s boat ride to Taquile.
MA Marati Globetrotter ·
After disembarking, we walk barely 100 meters and arrive at a square where dozens of other tourists are already watching a traditional folkloric performance.

Just behind them, stalls filled with textiles, supposedly made on the island, but which look strangely like everything we’ve seen so far, with one or two exceptions...

Then it’s our turn to watch the dance performance and weaving workshop. Everything is perfectly timed to move as many tourists through as possible.



On the plus side, we then get a nice walk through some really beautiful landscapes before heading to lunch.

The trail takes us under a stone gate, and then we have lunch at a restaurant pre-booked for the group.



After barely an hour and a half on the island—not counting lunch—the guide asks us to head back to the boat docked at another pier, as close as possible to the restaurant. Everything is timed to the minute, and we end up spending half as much time as planned on Taquile. But I’m pretty sure I won’t be seeing that little liar again when we get back to Puno...



So, a bit of a letdown with this tourist trap, even if our walk in the southern part of the island gave us a good taste of its landscapes.

Back in Puno by 4 PM, we chill at the hotel before heading to dinner at a pizzeria, Bianca Pizza, which serves authentic Italian pizzas with thin Neapolitan crusts—just like the ones we had in Sicily. Absolute heaven! 😇 The silver lining of a disappointing day that didn’t really match our travel style, though we don’t regret giving it a try.
MO Montagnard74 Globetrotter ·
I get that it doesn’t sound appealing when pitched like that! 😄
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
Hi Guillaume,

I’d been following your adventures on Facebook, and it’s great to find your account of such an action-packed trip here! 😉
MA Marati Globetrotter ·
Definitely doesn’t sound appealing when put like that!

In my travel journal, I kept a lot of my first impressions, jotted down on paper. The reality wasn’t that bad—with a good dose of sarcasm, we ended up enjoying this touristy folklore day with regular smiles!
MA Marati Globetrotter ·
Hey Guillaume,

I’d been following your adventures on Facebook, and it’s great to find your account of such an exhilarating trip here! 😉

Hey Agnès, It’s a real pleasure to run into you here, on one of the winding roads of El Hierro!!
MA Marati Globetrotter ·
Day 12 - 07/23: Arrival in Bolivia and Visit to La Paz

It’s not that we don’t like Puno, but we’ve got a long journey ahead to reach Bolivia and its capital, La Paz—the highest in the world. And since I hate spending a full day in transit, the best thing is to start the day as early as possible!

So, up at 4:50 AM, a quick taxi ride to catch a collectivo that leaves Puno at 5:30 AM to reach Desaguadero in about two hours.

Desaguadero’s only real interest is that it’s on the Bolivian border.

We exchange our leftover soles for cash in bolivianos. And since the exchange rate there is great for € and $, we load up on thousands of bolivianos. You don’t need to be rolling in money to amass such sums, considering you get 13 or 15 bs for $1 or 1 €...

Yet, the official rate is only around 7 bs for $1! So, if you pay by card or withdraw cash from an ATM, it’s basically a rip-off. We anticipated this by bringing a good stash of dollars and euros, which we split up in our money belts.

The huge gap is due to the economic and political crisis hitting the country hard, causing runaway inflation. Back in January, when I was discussing the price of the Salar de Uyuni tour, the euro was at 10 bs instead of the current 15 bs!!

While leaving Peru is a breeze, on the Bolivian side, we have to wait an hour just to get our passports stamped with a messy ink pad!

Once we buy a new SIM card with data right across from the border post, we catch another collectivo that takes us to La Paz in another two hours.

Since we also lose an hour due to the time difference, we arrive at our hotel at 1 PM, after nearly 8 hours of traveling!

But it’s only 1 PM, so we’ve got the whole afternoon to explore the city. The perk of waking up super early...!

And what better way to start than by discovering new Bolivian flavors? Off we go to a favorite spot I’d carefully saved during my prep: Popular Cocina Bolivia.

When we arrive, we see 17 names written on a sign—the waiting list. Sure, most are already crossed off, but there are still plenty left...

With so many people, it only makes us more determined to stay and try the food. We finally get a table after 2 PM and feast on a thousand flavors... The photos of the dishes speak for themselves. Our best meal of the trip 😇!



The afternoon is already well underway when we leave. What better way to unwind than by taking to the skies—heading to a cable car station! For that, we walk about half an hour to leave the city center.





The cable car takes us up to the heights of the city. There are all sorts of colors, with nearly ten lines already in service. These lines were built to make it easier to connect the poorer neighborhoods on the hills with the more upscale ones in the center.

We then head down to the Killi Killi viewpoint for a panoramic view of La Paz. Legend has it that an Alsatian gave this viewpoint its name.



Too lazy to walk 2 km, and with taxi rides being dirt cheap, we let ourselves be driven to the Witches’ Market.

It’s a pretty unique market where you can find all sorts of potions, lotions, and herbs to satisfy Aymara superstitions and rituals. The creepiest part is the display of llama fetuses, which are used as offerings to Pachamama, the Mother Earth.

In the evening, we have a light dinner at a café. Only four of us, since Maxime bowed out—he thinks we do nothing but eat all day long...!
MA Marati Globetrotter ·
Day 13 - 07/24: Moon Valley and Las Animas Valley

Cool, this is the first time on the trip we don’t have to pack our bags in the morning. It took 12 days to finally spend at least two nights in the same place!! And this time, it’s even three nights in La Paz!

This is the last somewhat active day, with Moon Valley and then Las Animas Valley on the agenda.

The first is well-known, the second much less so.

After a ride on the blue, then green cable car, and a 10-minute taxi ride, we arrive just as Moon Valley opens.

It feels a bit like the American West—think Cathedral Gorge State Park or Sidestep Canyon—White Rocks—but you’ve got to say that quickly. Because in terms of size, colors, and vibe, the comparison stops there!



We still enjoy wandering through the heart of the clay hoodoos that look like stalagmites.

This site is a unique curiosity to explore in a country like Bolivia! In 45 minutes, even while taking our time, we see it all. A group of Germans with a guide—probably on a tour—even managed to visit it in 20 minutes flat!! Always the same way of rushing people through...

Before leaving, we can’t help but linger at the entrance, near the botanical garden where cacti and succulents mix.



We then hop back in a taxi to cover the 12 km to Las Animas Valley, a site that was still unknown two years ago but is gaining popularity thanks to Facebook groups.

A quick picnic purchase at the Ovejuyo center, and we hike up steeply to the start of the trail that follows a stream.

Looking more closely at maps.me, I realize there’s still an 800m elevation gain to reach the viewpoint I’d spotted during prep. I didn’t remember such a climb 🤪, convinced that a path following a stream couldn’t be that steep.

At the trailhead, an old man waits and charges us 5 bs per person to access this private area.

When we start the hike, the river we’re following is actually more of a mountain torrent, with a constant steep slope 😮 😏!

We take it slow to avoid burning out, and on either side of the torrent, dark gray rock spires of different sizes and shapes point toward the sky. It’s stunning!!



We don’t push ourselves to finish the hike since we’ve already seen some amazing landscapes!



After more than two hours of hiking from the village and 600m of elevation gain, we stop for a snack at the foot of a cabin.

We then split into two groups: those who turn back and those who add another 200m of elevation to get a higher vantage point and loop around.

Only Max and I feel like doing it, so we enjoy some more viewpoints on this incredible valley, which clearly deserves a detour when passing through La Paz. Way more than Moon Valley!



Maxime and I end up blocked at the top of the mountain by a "Private Property" sign, so we turn back, picking up the pace so we don’t keep the others waiting too long.
MA Marati Globetrotter ·
Back at the trailhead about fifteen minutes late compared to the rest of the family, we start descending toward the village. No sooner do we reach a paved road than a taxi appears out of nowhere, and we take the opportunity to head back to the cable car, which we ride in the opposite direction to the city center.



We’ll spend the late afternoon having a drink at the Manq’a restaurant while waiting for dinner time. We’ll also eat there—Manq’a was one of the places I’d picked out.

Presentation-wise, it’s top-notch. But taste-wise, we were all a bit underwhelmed, even though all the dishes were good. We all felt the plates were a little *too* sophisticated, with too many flavor combinations that didn’t necessarily work well together...

Day 14 - 07/25: Visit to La Paz

This morning, for our rest day, we start by blending into the crowd at a market in La Paz, just a few blocks from our hotel, the Sagarnaga.



Still so many colors in the fabrics



We take the cable car one last time—the red line, which climbs the highest up the city’s hills. We fly over the general cemetery of La Paz and a completely renovated neighborhood.

The terminus gives us a panoramic view of the city. But it’s backlit...

The red cable car’s terminus is near the El Alto district, which houses the city’s largest market. Unfortunately, our visit days don’t line up with market days, so we head straight back down to the general cemetery—a massive, open-air vertical cemetery!





The relaxed afternoon is dedicated to shopping and souvenir hunting!

In the evening, after cocktail hour, we dine at the city’s best pizzeria, La Bella Ciao.

What to remember about La Paz? It has a unique vibe.

It’s bustling with people, but everyone’s respectful of each other. We didn’t feel unsafe—at least not during the day and in the central neighborhoods.

The cable car lines add real tourist value. Not only do they let you get around the outskirts of the city quickly, but they also let you see it differently!

We also loved getting lost in the different streets where all the shops share the same theme. There’s the barbers’ street, souvenir streets, the high-tech street, the hardware street, and the carnival street...

Everything’s simple and affordable. Need a laundry? There’s one right across from the hotel. Need meds? Just around the corner. Need a taxi? You’ll wait about 10 to 20 seconds on average! The longest we waited was 2 minutes, outside the city, because the first taxi tried to overcharge us for being Americans.

Here, unlike in Peru, haggling is minimal—the price quickly becomes firm, and they don’t seem to like it much. In Peru, it was a real game with more room for negotiation.

Tomorrow, we’re off to Uyuni on a domestic flight—and its famous Salar... 😎
HO Holigirl Veteran ·
Love your travel journal, Guillaume! I was really looking forward to the Bolivia and Chile sections for an upcoming trip, but I have to say, the Peruvian colors totally blew me away! What a great discovery—the Las Animas Valley—I’d never seen it before.

Thanks! 🙂
PO Posabjumax ·
hi guillaume, Thanks for this new travel journal I’ve been eagerly waiting for!
MA Marati Globetrotter ·
Thanks Pascale and Pop for your encouraging messages 🙂! Valle de Las Animas won’t stay a hidden gem for long—the scenery is truly unique. You can even get dropped off much higher up by taking a winding road for a 360° panorama.
MA Marati Globetrotter ·
Day 15 - 07/26: Salar de Uyuni

We definitely needed that rest day yesterday to keep up with today’s pace.

Woke up at 4:45 AM (though as I write this in my travel journal, I realize we actually got up several times before 5 AM...).

Took a taxi to La Paz airport at 5:30 AM, followed by a very long wait. Our flight to Uyuni, originally scheduled for 7:40 AM, was delayed by half an hour.

Our plane flew over the Salar de Uyuni—here we go, the show begins!!



Upon arrival, Janeth, our French-speaking guide, picked us up around 9:30 AM.

For booking the tour, I went through an agency (whose name I don’t even know!!), run by a woman named Magali, recommended in the Bolivia FB group. I also asked Janeth for a quote, but hers was too expensive. And for good reason—she’s the best French-speaking guide working on the Salar, and she’s in high demand. She was even featured recently in a French documentary about Bolivia.

So why did we end up with Janeth? I assume it’s because, in a context of significant devaluation of the Boliviano, I agreed last June to pay Magali directly in euros via a European Revolut account, at an exchange rate I knew was very much in her favor. In return, without asking for anything, we got our money’s worth... Had to take a leap of faith by paying the full amount the day before the tour... but Magali’s professionalism throughout our exchanges convinced me to go for it!

Janeth picked us up at the airport to grab breakfast in Uyuni’s center while Carlos loaded the Land Cruiser with all the food for the next two and a half days. There are hardly any other vehicles in Uyuni besides these 4x4s. Makes sense—with 250 known agencies, some of them shady operators scamming clients...

First stop of the tour, which started about half an hour behind schedule: the Uyuni train cemetery.

Huge general disappointment due to the overwhelming crowds. It’s a real circus—there’s not a single abandoned locomotive without ten people climbing all over it!

We had to walk as far as possible to find a little peace. Janeth explained that, in addition to the many tourists, there were lots of Bolivians because they were still on winter break for the weekend.

We claimed one of the few locomotives where we were alone, all the way at the end of the train.



I’m seriously worried about the rest of the day—if this feeling of being overwhelmed continues, it’ll definitely affect the overall experience.

Janeth explained the meaning of the five flags, but I’ll admit I’ve already forgotten most of it!

Next stop: the Colchani artisan market, where we learned all about the salt production process. There are quite a few salt constructions as souvenirs—we treated ourselves to whatever could fit in our backpacks.

Lunch was at the salt museum, which also has a monument dedicated to the Dakar rally and a plaza with flags from countries all over the world.



Still lots of people, but much less than in the morning, so it’s bearable...

The huge dining room, with its well-spaced tables, allowed us to enjoy the excellent lunch prepared by Janeth’s team.

In the early afternoon, we tackled the 80 km to Isla Incahuasi. The driver was cautious but still relatively fast for a dirt road!

We arrived at Isla Incahuasi, home to centuries-old cacti.

When you think that these cacti grow just one centimeter per year, you can imagine how old they are. It’s stunning—this little island lost in a sea of salt !!

The trail around the island is well-marked. Impossible to get lost... and it’s forbidden to leave the marked path to avoid damaging this heavily visited site. As soon as we gained some elevation, the views became incredible!!



The cactus forest is quite dense in places.



A glance at the parking lot showed we weren’t alone, but it didn’t feel too crowded on the hiking trail.

There’s even an arch—I unfortunately didn’t think to photograph it from the other side, which would’ve given a great backdrop of the Salar!

Some cacti have really unique shapes.

MA Marati Globetrotter ·
Back at the parking lot, we hit the road again—well, sort of, since you can barely make out the tracks. But Carlos, Janeth’s driver, knows the route like the back of his hand.

We head to the southern part of the Salar, where we snap some fun photos with Janeth, who’s a pro at striking the right poses!



The photo ideas crack us up as much as the final results!!

Alright, one last round! We could keep going—got a few more ideas stolen from the web—but we can tell Janeth’s starting to get fed up, so we pretend we’ve had our fill!!



To cap off the day, Carlos takes us to the lowest part of the Salar, where there’s still water—a rare sight for this time of year. Normally, by April or May, all the water’s evaporated, but this year, the rainy season was unusually long and intense.

We wander through the water in our boots, snapping one last round of photos. One word: magical!!

The sun slowly slips behind the horizon after these suspended moments.



The cherry on top? Janeth and Carlos share a homemade aperitif with a bottle of red wine from Tarija, Janeth’s hometown!

All these little touches really get to us and perfectly wrap up a day that was already unforgettable...

Only the icy wind that picks up as soon as the sun sets brings us back to reality!!

We have dinner and spend the night in a salt hotel—pretty upscale for the area! No tiles on the floor here, just salt!

No need for much wall decor to give it style.





Of course, there’s no heating, even though temperatures are already well below freezing and a fierce wind is howling!

The night promises to be... interesting. 🤪 !
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
With so many people, it only made us more determined to stay and try the food at this restaurant. We finally got a table after 2 PM, and we feasted on a thousand flavors... The photos of the dishes speak for themselves. Our best restaurant of the trip 😇 !

I’d found a nice restaurant in La Paz and forgot the name of a really good dish... But looking at your photo, yours is a whole other level! It’s true that overall, Bolivian cuisine isn’t bad at all. 😇

It’s the last somewhat active day, with the Moon Valley on the agenda, followed by the Las Animas Valley.

I know the first one, very close to La Paz, which we visited rather quickly. From what I remember, it felt a bit like an overdone amusement park—meh. The second one, though, looks really great. I didn’t know about it—what a shame...

Day 15 - 07/26: Salar de Uyuni

We were there in July/August too (my daughter’s school holidays), and it was a bit cold! We were underdressed for the low temperatures and had to buy local clothes!

The icing on the cake: Janeth and Carlos share a homemade aperitif with us, along with a bottle of red wine produced in the Tarija region, Janeth’s hometown!

We went to Tarija and the surrounding mountains (Condor Valley) to hike and see condors. It’s another side of Bolivia that’s really nice, with vast vineyards and landscapes like Andalusia. I thought their red wine was really good! 😇 Just like in Argentina (so close by).
MA Marati Globetrotter ·
In my memory, it feels a bit like an overdone theme park... meh.

Same vibe as you for Valle de la Luna. The tour is over really quickly...

We were there in July/August (my daughter’s school holidays) and it was a bit chilly! We were underprepared for the low temps and had to buy local clothes!

Feeling a little less alone
MA Marati Globetrotter ·
Day 16 - 07/27: Crossing the Lipez and the lagoons

A long day on the dirt road awaits us to reach our destination, right next to Laguna Colorado, not far from the Chilean border.

We continue to encounter herds of alpacas.

The journey is punctuated by various stops. First, San Juan, where we buy cactus beer. The village’s main attraction is this alignment of remarkable cacti with enormous arms, as thick as tree trunks!

A little further south, we cross the Salar de Chiguana, the little brother of the Salar de Uyuni, which also borders the Chilean frontier.

It’s surrounded by volcanic formations and mountain ranges, adding depth to the shots. The colors of this raw salt flat are much more diverse than those of the Salar de Uyuni.



When we follow a railway track, a photo stop is a must.



The road then leads us to a viewpoint overlooking the Ollague volcano, which peaks at an altitude of 5,870 meters.

It’s one of the most active volcanoes in the entire Western Cordillera, and from the belvedere, we can see a plume of smoke rising from it.



The belvedere’s appeal isn’t limited to the view of the volcano. Janeth takes us to see an Azorella compacta, a plant adapted to the extreme cold and dry conditions of the Andes. It looks like moss, yet it’s a great fuel source.

Janeth explains that in the past, Bolivians used it a lot for heating in winter. Since it grows very slowly—about 1 mm per year (!!)—authorities decided to protect it. The specimen we’re looking at is over a thousand years old! It really puts things into perspective...



I was expecting a tourist highway on the route, but in the end, there are at most five to ten 4x4s at each stop.

The landscapes are stunning. As the day goes on, we gain altitude and enter the lagoon area.

The first one we encounter is Laguna Canapa. The contrast is striking between the blue of the lagoon, the white borax edges, and the ochre mountains. The pink dots visible from afar are the famous pink flamingos of the Altiplano.

The surrounding mountains, almost devoid of vegetation, frame this glacial oasis in the middle of the desert .



Even though it’s not the ideal season, we’re lucky to see many pink flamingos. The juveniles are easy to spot thanks to their gray plumage speckled with white.



A few flamingos have the great idea to treat us to a low flyby.



When we arrive at Laguna Hedionda, we’re pretty happy to see a building overlooking the water. Not that we enjoy seeing concrete in the heart of natural sites, but it’s almost noon, and we’re getting hungry! As expected, Janeth tells us the building has all the amenities—lunchroom and restrooms. It’s clear that everything, from the infrastructure to the organization, is designed to give tourists a hassle-free experience with all the tour operators!

Before sitting down to eat, Janeth lets us wander along Laguna Hedionda while Carlos prepares the meal and sets the table.

Unlike the bright blue of Laguna Canapa, the water here is a grayish blue.



But when it comes to flamingos, there’s no comparison! We’re treated to a feast for the eyes, with specimens in every corner of the lagoon and highly concentrated colonies in some spots—visually stunning!



Hats are still a must—you’d think it’s cold and windy in southern Lipez !
MA Marati Globetrotter ·
The picnic break, sheltered from the wind, feels great. Our plates are full, and Janeth, as usual, shares her vast knowledge about the Lipez region, Bolivian society, social movements, and the country's economic challenges.



Several lagoons follow one after another: Laguna Chiarcota (or Laguna Negra) and Laguna Honda, with a few lovely encounters along the way







The lagoon waters create some beautiful reflections.

Every time we step out of the car, we’re reminded of the altitude, the wind exposure, and the wild, harsh nature of the Southern Lipez for vegetation

The breathtaking landscapes keep coming, and the kilometers fly by without a hint of boredom!

We then head into the Canyon de las Vizcachas, where we spot several viscachas—rabbit-like creatures. The canyon lives up to its name...

The two specimens we’re lucky enough to see aren’t shy at all! Though, to be fair, we’re not alone in the canyon, and these poor rabbits must see a parade of tourist 4x4s!



On the way to the Siloli Desert, when we see the outside of other 4x4s, we finally understand why our roof luggage is wrapped in tarps !!

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