Bonjour, nous avons passés 2 semaines géniales aux Philippines en octobre 2007, je voulais en faire profiter tout le monde notament parce que certaines choses n'auraient pas été faites sans les carnets des autres notamment Le Piaf (spéciale dédicace, merci beaucoup) 😉.
En préambule, rien à voir avec les Philippines si ce n'est qu'on passe souvent par Amsterdam, KLM oblige. Si vous avez comme nous, 5h d'escale, n'hésitez pas à faire un petit tour en ville, en "RER" on y est en 20min et ça coute 3 euros je crois et il y en a très souvent. Le centre d'Amsterdam est petit, on peut vite avoir un apperçu et faire le tour à pied et la gare est centrale. Voilà, fin de la parenthèse, départ pour l'Asie...
J1 : Manille, départ pour Banaue.
Arrivée à 8h45, l'idéal. On sort de l'aéroport à 10h après avoir enfin récupéré nos trois sacs, le dernier, on ne l'attendais plus... La sortie de l'aéroport de manille est un peu compliquée, un conseil, suivre le flot. Heureusement Matt est là. Matt est mon ami d'enfance, il est parti il y a 4 ans pour un stage de 6 mois et y est resté... classique. Ca m'a permis d'y aller en 2003, d'avoir envie d'y retourner avec mon chéri cette fois. Donc Matt est là, on prend un taxi. Il habite en plein centre de Makati, le quartier des affaires, que des buildings. Un contraste absolu avec le reste des Philippines. On retire de l'argent, Cécile, l'amie de Matt (Philippine) est au badmington. On va donc la chercher au badmington, il y a une compétition. On va manger au resto en face qui fait des spécialités Autrichiennes. Pour l'instant, pour nous, le dépaysement n'est pas garanti mais c'est important pour les expats qui adorent ce retrouver dans ce genre de resto, un petit coin d'Europe. On mange donc de la charcuterie, de la vraie choucroute et des saucisses! L'après midi, il pleut des trombes d'eau (on nous avait prévenu, octobre c'est pas une bonne période etc... mais on fait pas toujours ce qu'on veut...). Abandon de l'idée de visiter le "vrai" Manille. On va donc à Glorietta qui est LE centre commercial de Makati où on trouve toutes les marques de fringues occidentales à prix exorbitant (Mango par exemple) ou au contraire très intéressants (Lewis, Nike, Lacoste, Dockers, Caterpillar, MetF Girbaud).
Le soir, on est partit direct pour Banaue (on est des wariors!). Le meilleur moyen pour aller à Banaue est de prendre le car. Il y a des cars de nuit qui partent vers 21-22h de la gare routière. Il faut arriver un peu en avance pour avoir des places. Les cars sont très confortables et la plupart du temps climatisé, même parfois un peu trop, il faut garder sa veste avec soi. Mettre les bagages en soute, pas de problème de vols. Le bus permet de se faire la route de nuit (sinon les 10h le jour sont quand même assez éprouvant, mais il y a aussi des liaisons de jour). De plus, ça a l'avantage de ne pas trop voir la route escarpée et qui tourne sans arrêt, donc pas de problème de crise d'angoisse. Bon à la fin quand on commence à se réveiller, on a droit aux lignes droites à fond de cale et au freinage sec dans les virages. Surtout prendre de quoi si on a tendance à avoir le mal des transports (non, je ne suis pas chochotte)
J2 : Banaue- Batad
Le car arrive à Banaue vers 6h-7h. Aux Philippines, tout le monde est levé depuis longtemps à cette heure là. Là, c'est bien de réserver tout de suite pour le retour si vous savez quand vous repartez. Ceci dit, nous on ne l'a pas fait (trop endormis) et on n'a eu aucun problème mais ce n'était pas une saison touristique...
La gare routière surplombe Banaue. Donc pas besoin de guide, il faut sortir du car et aller marcher sur la route tout droit en descendant, on ne peut pas se tromper.
Banaue est un petit bourg, en bas de la descente il y a une rue où se trouve la majorité des hotels et resto (+ boutiques d'artisanat). Dont l'hotel de prédilection, le people's lodge. Cet endroit est génial. On entre dans une petite boutique qui vent des glaces, sodas etc... puis une très grande salle de resto très lumineuse, décorée de photos du coin et de canevas (ceux de la dernière fois et des nouveaux, ça travaille dur!). Enfin, le clou, la terrasse sui surplombe les rizières avec le petit lavabo pour se laver les mains quand on sort des WC (sur terrasse aussi). J'espère que ça rappelle de bons souvenirs aux gens qui connaissent. Donc là, sur cette terrasse, on a pris notre petit dej, pancake à la banane et café. Le soleil était encore faiblard et il y avait un peu de brume, super!
Après comme nous sommes prévoyants et que manger est important, nous avons demandé des sandwich pour le midi. Pour info : 2 petits dej + 2 sandwichs (petits mais costaux) = 260P. Je demande à tout hasard une carte du coin, on me donne la classique feulle A4 avec Banaue, Batad, la jonction et la route nationale (des points et des lignes, c'est joli mais peu absolument pas précis). On l'a prend quand même parce que vu notre niveau d'anglais, les autres moyens de communication sont toujours utiles 😛. ça s'est avéré être une bonne idée, et puis ça fait un petit souvenir... En sortant people's lodge, pas de problème pour trouver un tricycle, ils sont là, ils attendent. Le tricycle est le petit transport en commun qui consiste en une moto + un side car amélioré. On peut rentrer jusqu'à 6 dessus avec les bagages (si, si on l'a fait au retour).
Donc à Banaue, demander à un tricycle de t'emmener à la "jonction" pour Batad (t'inquiet, ils connaissent). Surtout demande leur de venir te chercher le surlendemain sur la route nationale à la jonction de Pula (il faut carrément leur expliquer ce que tu veux faire) vers 14h et prendre leur numéro de portable, tu verras pourquoi après. Ne payer que l'aller, tu paieras le retour le jour même.Nous avons payé 650P pour deux en tout (aller+ retour, c'est cher pour le coin mais le mec a été super fiable). Donc là il te laisse à la jonction (environ 45min de tricycle), éprouvant selon état de la route. Nous c'était boueux donc cahotique (on d'est oas mal tapé la tête sur les cotés). A l'arrivée, un chemin assez large et un seul, impossible de se tromper. Il faut monter (environ 1h30), pas de difficulté mais assez raide. Au fait, il fait un temps spendide. Tu arrives au view point de Batad, tu surplombe le village, magnifique. Là nous avons trouvé notre la femme de notre guide pour le lendemain, notre guide ce fut donc "le mari de Mariette" car je ne me souviens plus de son prénom, j'ai honte. Mais si il n'y a personne là, tu trouveras au village, pas de problème. Après donc petite descente 30 min vers le village de Batad (toujours qu'un seul chemin et tu vois l'objectif!). Attention aux glissades, j'ai encore la marque de la mienne... Arrivé à Batad, tu peux déjeuner et laisser tes bagages dans un des lodges. Nous sommes allés au Hillside Inn. 300P la chambre double, très rudimentaire mais comme tous les hôtels de Batad, mais vue imprenable sur les rizières. Je vous le déconseille, l'accueil n'était pas franchement sympa. En 2003, j'étais allée au Batad Pension, c'était beaucoup mieux. On a mangé 2 pitas avec 1 coca et on a fait une petite sieste (on est des wariors mais quand même). J'en profite pour dire que pour aller à Batad puis dans toute la vallée, la rando, c pas du snobisme, il n'y a pas de route donc tout se transporte à dos d'homme, il n'y a pas d'électricité en dehors des groupes électrogènes. Donc, non on ne peut pas forcément recharger son protable, manger des spaguetti bolognaises et boire du champagne frais... Prouts, prouts s'abstenir. Beaucoup de mal pour remotiver Alex pour repartir l'après midi. Je l'ai quand même forcé à aller se rafraichir aux chutes de Tapiyia, c'est très sympa. Je savais comment y aller mais tu peux demander à n'importe qui de t'y emmener (environ 100P). C'est à 45min de marche. C'est vraiment sympa. C'est une très grande chute d'eau avec un bassin naturel et de petites vagues dans lequel on peut vraiment faire trois brasses. Pour y aller on commence à marcher le long des rizières et on traverse le village (la plupart des lodges surplombent un peu le village, vue oblige). Attention cependant, le soleil se couche tôt, prévoir de repartir des chutes vers 16h pour ne pas risquer de se retrouver sur les rizières en pleine nuit, c'est pas toujours facile d'y marcher le jour, la nuit, je déconseille fortement. Au retour à l'hôtel, pas de coucher de soleil car pas de soleil, ça s'est couvert mais on a eu une belle journée.
On a mangé les sandwich du people's lodge qu'on avait pas mangé à midi, la marche ça creuse! A oui, après une bonne douche au baquet et découverte des petits habitants noirs et véloces de la chambre... On est allé mangé une pizza chez Simon's View Inn. Je pense qu'un Italien se suicide mais nous on l'a trouvé rigolotte notre pizza aux sardines, il y a une variante, c'est au thon. Il parait qu'il y a un mec qui a sorti un livre de cuisine sur "tout ce qu'on peut faire avec des boites de thon et de sardine à l'huile", il faut absolument que je l'ai! 260P le repas pour 2. Retour à l'hotel et il commence à flotter dru mais ON S'EN FOUT parce qu'on a passé une superbe journée ensoleillée et qu'on est certainement dans un des plus bel endroit du monde.
Voilà pour le début, c'est loin d'être fini, mais il faut que j'aille manger car comme je l'ai dit tout à l'heure, manger etc... A+
Quelques petites précisions (désolée, mes notes sont en vrac) : bus avec climatisation ce dit : bus air con (ça ne s'invente pas). Comme je le disais, c'est souvent trés con! le trajet aller Manille-Banaue nous a couté 450P/pers.
J3 : Batad-Cambulo-Pula
Lever 6h, de toute façon on est réveillé par la basse cour. On a dormi sous la moustiquaire donc nos collocataires ne nous ont pas embêtés. Petit dej : pancakes à la banane (j'aime bien ça). Total : 1 chambre double + 1 déjeuner, petit dèj et boissons : 900P pour 2. Mariette est fidèle au rendez vous mais elle ne peut pas nous accompagner parce que c'est dimanche (elle doit vouloir aller à la messe). Elle nous confie donc à son mari qui parle un anglais compréhensible par nous. On passe au dessus de Batad et des chutes de Tappiya. Les rizières sont magnifiques mais le chemin est difficile, c'est trés glissant, ça monte et ça descend sans arrêt. On arrive à Cambulo en 2h. Cambulo est un tout petit village, seulement quelques maisons. Ce qui est joli c'est la rivière qui passe juste à coté. On boit un sprite (chaud) et on repart. Heureusement que le guide m'a filé son baton sinon certainement encore une chute et là, à 2m de haut dans la rizière du dessous. La boue c'est bon pour la peau mais bon... Le paysage est vraiment somptueux, les rizières sont à perte de vue, beaucoup sont abandonnées, le travail est physiquement difficile, beaucoup de jeunes partent des campagnes pour aller en ville où ils ne trouvent pas forcément de travail d'ailleurs. Les enfants mettent une journée pour atteindre Banaue où se trouve le collège, où ils sont internes. Par contre il y a une écôle primaire à Batad, à Cambulo et à Pula. L'alphabétisation est excellente aux Philippines, l'une des meilleures de PVD, les parents attachent beaucoup d'importance à la scolarité des enfants, garçons et filles.
del
J3 (suite)
Nous sommes arrivés à Pula vers 12h soit 5h de marche (il nous a dit qu'on avait bien marché, on est trés fiers). Pula est en hameau en 2 parties : Pula du haut est sur un flanc de montagne. Pula du bas est dans la vallée à coté de la rivière (la même que celle de Cambulo, elle serpente dans toute la vallée). Nous on est arrivé à Pula du haut et tout le mo, de était à la messe, he oui, nous on est des mécréants, on a tout fait sauf se reposer le jour du seigneur! On attend donc dans la cour de notre futur guest house. On en profite pour mettre les serviettes à sêcher. J'en profite pour pousser un cri : HA!! Si quelqu'un sait où se procurer des serviettes (genre serviette de plage) qui ne mettent pas 3j à sêcher, qu'il me le dise et soit béni! Ca nous a gonflé tout le séjour. Finallement, le propriétaire des lieux arrive. Ce n'est pas un lodge, ni un Inn, il habite là avec sa petite famille et met à disposition une chambre pour les visiteurs de passage. C'est une maison sur pilotti comme beaucoup de maisons de ces villages. Les chambres sont en haut. La notre a deux petites fenetres, une donnant sur la cour de l'écôle (les enfants jouent au basket), l'autre sur la cour de la maison et sur ceux qui vont devenir nos meilleurs amis pendant les moments passés là : les deux gros cochons noirs. Il faut savoir qu'un cochon est capable de faire autant de bruit qu'un avion à réaction surtout quand il a faim. A coté le coq, c'est ridicule! Donc notre chambre à 2 fenetres et un lit sans matelas ce qui n'empêche pas Alex de s'y endormir dès qu'il est dessus me laissant à mes observations. Progressivement, ça se repeuple. On nous prépare à manger. Le paysage est trés beau, il y a moins de rizières qu'à Batad, on voit plutôt la foret en face. Je demande au guide si il connait Aurélia qui loue aussi une chambre à Pula et dont j'ai entendu parler sur un blog. Il me dit que la maison où on est est à l'oncle d'Aurélia (ce qui ne doit pas être dur, d'être l'oncle d'Aurélia vu que c'est tout petit et retiré, Pula).
J3 (suite)
Le propriétaire nous dit qu'en 2002 des Français sont venus et sont restés un mois, ça a du les reposer, le retour à du être dur!!! Le guide nous propose de nous montrer les chutes d'eau du coin après le déjeuner, il est déjà 14h, ça va être juste. En fait, le repas est prêt. Dans certains blogs ou articles, je lis souvent : "quand on est arrivé dans ce paradis perdu, les villageois sacrifièrent en notre honneur, le porc, le seul animal du village etc...". Je sais pas pourquoi mais, nous, même si on a bien marché on n'a pas sacrifié le porc ce qui aurait eu 2 intérêts : éviter qu'on ait eu envie de le faire nous dans la nuit nous nourrir.
Bref on a eu du riz (ça c'est sur, pour 10 personnes alors qu'on était 4) avec de la citrouille (une sorte en tout cas, allongée et moins sucrée qu'en France). C'est bourratif et le guide ne comprends pas pourquoi on ne mange pas tout le riz. Il n'y a rien à boire en bouteille, heureusement qu'on a du purificateur d’eau.
J3 suite
Le guide nous dit qu'il est content qu'on parle mal anglais car il nous comprends, il est mal à l'aise avec les touristes Anglais ou US. Il nous dit que lui parle mal car il n'a pas appris l'anglais à l'école contrairement à ses enfants. Effectivement nous aussi on le comprends mieux que les autres Philippins, c'est bien tout le monde est nul, tout le monde est content (spéciale dédicace à tous mes profs d'Anglais!).
Comme on a vite mangé, on va aux chutes qui sont à Pula du bas. L'eau est encore plus froide qu'hier mais une fois qu'on est dedans, ça va. On peut bien nager, il y a un endroit où il n'y a pas pied (pour moi, je fais 1m67). Après il a commencé à pleuvoir donc on s'est pris une bonne rince. L'intéret c'est qu'on a monté les marches beaucoup plus vite. Cette fois c'est la vrai douche.
Les enfants de la famille jouent en bas de notre famille. Encore raté pour le coucher de soleil, il y avait des nuages.
Pour le diner, riz+haricots. Le guide nous dit de revenir dans quelques années avec 10 enfants pour faire des touristes (parle peut être pas bien anglais mais a de la suite dans les idées).
Je donne su spasfon à une dame qui a mal au ventre, elle a l'air méfiante. j'espère qu'elle ne va pas nous faire un choc anaphylactique!
On se couche sur le lit dur, fin du troisième jour!
J4 Pula-Banaue-Manille
On a, comment dire ? Mal dormi ? On a eu froid et à 5h tous les animaux s’y sont mis (poules+coq+chiens+cochons+bébé). On s’est donc levé plus tôt que prévu. Petit déjeuner : riz+fèves (cette fois Alex râle). La note : 700P pour 2 (nuit+3 repas). On repart à 7h, comme il a plu, j’ai peur que ce soit glissant. En fait c’est cette fois un vrai chemin (il n’y en a qu’un d’ailleurs, on va à Pula du bas et on rejoint le versant d’en face). Les rizières de Pula sont en fait plutôt autour de Pula du bas. On les voie bien quand on est à mi-pente (d’ailleurs il y a une cabane pour se reposer). La montée est assez costaud, environ 1h. Le reste est quasiment à plat dans la forêt. Il pleut à nouveau par averses courtes. Ce n’est pas trop gênant car on est dans la forêt. Le paysage est radicalement différent, il y a plein de fougères arborescentes et quelques petites orchidées. Le contraste est qu’on est lundi et que tous les villageois de la vallée vont à Banaue pour vendre : sculptures en bois, légumes…, ils portent des charges très lourdes parfois mais dans la bonne humeur. On arrive à la jonction de la route nationale à 11h45. On a donc fait cette partie en 4h30 mais on n’est pas à Banaue. Le guide dit que c’est pas mal. Voilà enfin l’intérêt du téléphone portable : comme on a 2h d’avance sur l’horaire prévu, le guide appelle le tricycle. On a de la chance, il peut venir tout de suite. C’est là qu’on est monté à dessus : nous 2, le guide, le chauffeur et une minette qui s’est légèrement incrusté (mais tant que ça rentre…). Comme on lui a donné une belle somme, il accepte de faire un petit arrêt sur la route au View Point de Banaue. C’est l’endroit où on voit le mieux les rizières qui sont autour de Banaue. Il y a également des magasins de souvenirs et des villageois en costume Ifugao. Ça fait un peu piège à touriste mais la belle vue, c’est gratuit ! On a encore de la chance, il ne pleut plus et la vue s’est dégagée. A Banaue, je paye le guide : 1400P pour nous 2 pour les 2 jours, sachant qu’en plus il faut qu’il retourne à Batad maintenant ! Difficile de faire moins cher.
On se dit au revoir et on va déjeuner au people’s lodge. Du poulet, enfin !!!! Comme on est des clients fidèles, on se permet de laisser nos sacs pendant qu’on va faire un peu de shopping. En 2003, j’avais souvenir, malgré ce que me dit Matt, qu’on pouvait marchander. Là on ne pouvait plus du tout, évidemment c’était pour le fun car les prix restent très abordables. J’ai fais mon gros stock de cadeaux pour la famille notamment une crèche qui a voyagé dans les chaussures vides d’Alex et qui a passé son Noël ensuite à Marseille. Ils ont aussi de très jolis timbres, pour les amateurs, au post-office (dans la montée pour reprendre le bus). On a fini les courses vers 17h et on est retourné au people’s boire un verre sur la terrasse avec un dernier regard sur les rizières. Cette fois, la rue pour aller à la gare routière, forcément elle monte et on en a plein le dos et plein de souvenirs, mais il aurait été peu courageux de prendre un tricycle. On a changé de compagnie de bus, on a pris la compagnie Autobus qui partait à 18h30, la compagnie Floridas (qu’on a pris à l’aller, partait à 20h). La gare de Autobus est un peu plus haut que l’autre dans la montée. Les prix et les conforts sont comparables, il n’y a que les horaires qui changent. On est arrivé en avance, heureusement car finalement il est parti à 18h10 ! En plus, il n’était pas plein… se méfier, donc. Je n’ai pas réussi à dormir, on était vraiment esquiché et il y avait encore un film débile (genre Swarzy) hyper fort.
On est arrivé à Manille à 3h15. On trouve facilement un taxi (on l’a négocié à 200P pour aller à Makati).
Attention, contrairement à ce que vous pourriez penser, la journée a commencé tôt (en fait c’est J4 qui ne s’est pas terminé…).
Nous avions convenu avec Matt, qu’il laisserait une clé au gardien de l’immeuble (dans tous les immeubles il y a un garde –armé- au RDC, il fait un peu concierge aussi et arrête quand il ne connait pas. Le fait est qu’il avait la clé mais qu’il n’a jamais compris ce qu’on lui voulait. Il a fini par nous laisser au moins monter ce qui n’était pas gagné… On a du donc réveiller Matt qui m’a tout de suite demandé si j’avais eu son message, la réponse fut non, bien sûr, pas de réseau, plus de batterie, pas d’électricité etc… pourquoi qu’est ce qui ce passe ? En fait j’avais prévu un vol Manille-Coron à 11h30 mais la compagnie a appelé Matt pour dire qu’il était annulé. On avait donc le choix entre prendre le vol de 7h (sachant qu’il était 4h) ou partir le lendemain ce qui nous foutais tous les plans de Coron en l’air. On a donc refais les bagages en vitesse (panoplie Banaue différente de panoplie Coron), pris une douche, rechargé le téléphone, pris les billets d’avion et c’est reparti. Vive les vacances ! Contente d’avoir vu Matt 30minutes. Les vols pour Coron partent du domestic airport (pas très loin de l’international mais ne pas se tromper quand même en le disant au taxi). L’enregistrement des bagages est un peu galère, la fille pèse les bagages plus nous. Elle nous explique qqch en anglais par rapport aux bagages qu’on ne comprend absolument pas. On a peur d’avoir un surpoids mais elle ne nous demande pas d’argent… On verra bien. On passe le portique, j’avais oublié de sortir le couteau suisse du sac, obligé de retourner à la case bagage. Heureusement, les sacs sont encore là. On attend 2h dans la salle d’attente en scrutant comme des malades le tableau d’affichage des vols tout ça pour qu’au final on nous appelle à l’interphone. On a donc embarqué sous l’œil condescendant de l’hôtesse de l’air. L’avion (à hélice) est minuscule (seulement 17 places). On voit les 2 pilotes qui sont assis avec leur hublot ouvert, c’est marrant. Il faisait très beau donc pas de turbulences et on vole très bas donc de magnifiques photos des îles en dessous. L’atterrissage se fait sans problème. Ouf, les bagages sont là ! On prend un jeepney pour rejoindre Coron Town. C’est assez loin, 45min. On a commencé par aller poser les bagages à l’hôtel. Nous avons choisi le Village Lodge. Il y avait l’air con mais pas d’eau chaude. La chambre est bien décorée avec de petits tableaux dans des styles très différents. La chambre donne sur le jardin, en retrait de la route donc calme. 850P la nuit ce qui est assez cher aux Philippines. J’avais vu sur tous les blogs et guides qu’il fallait aller « chez Bruno », le Français. On l’a cherché assez longtemps. En fait, l’entrée est assez étroite. C’est dans la rue du Seadive (trottoir en face), juste à coté des halles. les tricycles qui étaient juste à coté ne nous ont pas aidé, Bruno nous a dit plus tard que c’est parce qu’il ne leur donnait pas de bakchich. Alex, très éprouvé par les 3j de trek surtout Pula a pris du bœuf à la sauce au poivre (très local) et moi des calamars. Les prix ont bien augmentés depuis Banaue (environ 150P le plat). Après avoir montré bruyamment nos origines Françaises, Bruno a fini par venir à notre table pour taper la discut. Ca fait 35 ans qu’il est aux Philippines. A l’entendre, les Philippines seraient mieux sans les Philippins mais on n’y croit pas trop…il a l’air d’adorer ce pays et ses habitants. Après avoir bien tapé sur les guides touristiques, il nous dit qu’il faut faire les lacs en kayaks (et nous indique où en louer) et pour Calauit, un jour c’est court, il faudrait louer des motos… sauf qu’on en a jamais fait. Après le repas, on va faire la sieste à l’hôtel, la nuit a été…inexistante… En plus, il n’y a pas de plage à Coron Town. Pendant qu’on faisait la sieste, il a plu une bonne averse et puis après ça s’est complètement dégagé (on est vraiment veinard au niveau du temps pour l’instant pour un mois d’octobre !). Pour bien finir la journée, on est monté sur le Mont Tappya (environ 300m). La montée est indiquée, pas de problème. C’est le mont où il y a la grande croix.
Magnifique coucher de soleil sur les îles d’en face, lumière éblouissante, de très belles photos à l’arrivée, à faire absolument !
Pour changer, on est allé diner au Seadive, un resto avec terrasse sur pilotti sur la mer. Très bon, de l’ambiance et vraiment bel endroit.Comme on est un peu crevé, on n’a pas fait long feu, dodo à 20h !
On s’est levé tôt et on est allé chercher le petit dej à la « Central Bakery » qui vend des petits pains, brioches et du lait aromatisé. On avait repéré le magasin de location (en fait il faut demander Al ou May dans le magasin de photo de la rue principale, ils tiennent aussi ce magasin de location de kayak. Le kayak est très sommaire, pas de bidon et pas de gilet de sauvetage. On a payé 450P le kayak biplace pour la journée. On l’a chargé sur un tricycle car l’embarcadère n’est pas à coté. Pensez à demander au tricycle quand vous êtes sur l’embarcadère de vous montrer où accoster sur l’île en face. Coron Town est dans une baie donc aucune vague et presque pas de courant. On a commencé par longer la cote pour se retrouver en face du point qu’il nous avait indiqué puis on a traversé la baie. Ça parait pas loin mais il nous a quand même fallu 50min pour arriver, même si on est pas des kayakistes pro, loin de là et que j’ai des petits bras… et qu’en plus, la coordination c’est pas notre fort. On a eu de la chance d’arriver pile où il fallait c'est-à-dire dans l’anse de départ pour voir le lac Kayagan. L’eau est tellement claire qu’on a fait des jolies photos de poissons en restant dans le kayak ! Sur la plage, une cabane et une carte de l’île. L’entrée coute 200P pour le lac Kayagan, le Twin Lagon et la White beach. Pour le Baracuda, il y a un supplément de 75P. On commence donc par le Kayagan Lake. Il y a une courte montée avec un escalier en bambou bien aménagée. L’eau est turquoise et doit être à 30°. Les falaises de calcaire noir plongent dedans. C’est un site fabuleux. Il n’y a pas d’hirondelle, pourtant d’après les photos, ça ressemble à El Nido. C’est très calme et il n’y a que nous. On peut nager dans le lac, c’est très agréable, par contre ce n’est pas la mer, pas de poisson, pas de corail évidemment. On a ensuite repris le kayak pour aller manger sur la White Beach, à quelques coups de pagaie. Petite déception, c’est assez sale, la plage est petite et il y a des tas de fourmis piqueuses. On a donc vite englouti notre pique-nique et on est reparti dans l’autre sens pour le Twin Lagon. Il s’agit de 2 lagons séparés par une falaise avec juste un petit trou en bas pour passer. Il y a une petite maison de pêcheur où on attache le kayak. On est resté une bonne heure pour nager dans le lagon, là il y a de quoi voir en snorkelling. On n’a pas eu le temps malheureusement d’aller au lac Baracuda car le soleil se couche tôt et je ne voulais pas risquer d’être encore sur le kayak en pleine nuit. La traversée en sens inverse est beaucoup plus difficile, pourtant il n’y a toujours pas de vagues et dès qu’on s’arrête pour souffler, on perd 10m donc on a mis 1h30 pour revenir. En fait, sur l’embarcadère on s’est rendu compte que le kayak était rempli d’eau ! On a certainement du pousser 50kg de trop. Pensez à vider votre kayak avant de repartir… Ramené le kayak, pris une douche et on est allé essayer le resto « Gourmet » dans la rue principale. Il n’est noté dans aucun guide et pour cause, c beaucoup moins sympa que chez Bruno ou le Seadive, et ce n’est pas moins cher. Par contre, mon poisson sauce aigre-doux était excellent. On est allé réserver notre moto au magasin conseillé par Bruno (sur la RN, pas loin du kokosnuss, trottoir d’en face). On s’était quand même renseigné au Kokosnuss pour une journée à Kalauit mais comme on n’était que 2 ça revenait à 60 euros par personne sans l’entrée du parc. Ce n’est pas hors de prix en soi mais comme il est difficile de retirer de l’argent en dehors de Manille, notre budget devait être respecté au poil et puis la moto, ça doit être amusant…
On est arrivé comme convenu à 6h devant le magasin de moto qui n’était évidemment pas ouvert. On a attendu 15min avant de demander au petit magasin d’à coté. Ça a été efficace, la dame a crié devant une des maisons et ils sont sortis. Alex a donc fait son initiation moto « semi-automatique » sur la route nationale. Ça avait l’air d’aller donc le loueur nous a donné une carte sommaire (genre celle qu’on avait pour Banaue…). « Pour aller à Calauit, il faut 2h, vous n’en avez jamais fait, donc peut être 3h » qu’il disait… En fait on a mis 5h. Voilà. La route était difficile, beaucoup de montées et de descentes 🤪. A la première grosse montée, la moto s’est cabrée et je suis tombée sur les fesses ! Plus de peur que de mal. Par contre on est tombés tous les 2 sur une autre montée, heureusement qu’on avait nos treillis, de gros hématomes en perspectives 🏴☠️. Résultat : j’ai fais toutes les autres grosses pentes à pied ! Arrivés à New Busuanga, ça s’est vraiment corsé, la route était de plus en plus mauvaise et il faisait très chaud. Aucun panneau, il a fallu demander plusieurs fois notre chemin et traverser un ruisseau à gué en portant la moto car un pont était détruit. On a fini par arriver éreinté à 12h au dernier petit village de la cote où le loueur de la moto nous avait dit de prendre un bateau car Calauit est une île en face. On demande donc à la première personne que l’on voit. Le bateau est à Calauit donc le jeune va le chercher en pirogue. On y arrive enfin à 13h. On explique aux rangers qu’on a pas beaucoup de temps car vu le temps qu’on avait mis à l’aller, il fallait qu’on reprenne la route vers 15h. Comme on était crevé et qu’on avait peu de temps, on a fait la visite en camion. Les animaux semblent beaux et en bonne santé mais il n’y a pas un taux de reproduction très élevé ce qui n’est pas bon signe. Il n’y a aucun carnivore donc pas de sélection naturelle… C’est quand même bien sympa de donner à manger aux girafes. Le chat-ours, endémique, était aussi très mignon mais on avait rien à lui donner à bouffer (déjà rien pour nous… c’est la dech). Le guide a l’air intéressé par son travail, il fait beaucoup de commentaires. En tout cas, l’horaire a été respecté, on est revenu à 15h pile ! On a repris notre bateau (300P AR pour 2) puis notre moto. J’ai essayé de savoir si à New Busuanga on pouvait trouver un bateau assez gros pour y mettre la moto et rentrer à Coron Town mais ça avait l’air difficile. Le jeune part juste après nous sur sa propre moto et va beaucoup plus vite ! Il est sympa, il nous attend pour nous montrer où trouver du « gazolin » car on est à sec. Il n’y a pas de station essence, elle est dans des bidons dans des magasins de bouffe ou autre. Là, nous avons fait une grosse erreur, ne pas demander la direction du retour pour revenir. On a « cru reconnaitre etc… ». La galère a donc commencé, on s’est aperçu TRES tard qu’on ne devait pas être sur la bonne route, on ne voyait plus les bornes kilométriques et les gens avaient l’air de trouver bizarre qu’on leur demande Coron Town mais l’indiquaient tous encore dans la même direction. La nuit tombait, l’essence forcément diminuait, Alex avait mal aux bras et moi j’en avait marre de marcher derrière la moto ! A 19h, j’ai commencé à paniquer légèrement car il faisait nuit noire et j’avais peur que les gens se couchent (quand il n’y a pas d’électricité, il n’u a pas grand-chose à faire le soir) 😠. A 20h30, on a traversé un bled et j’ai demandé à Alex de s’arrêter. Les gens nous on indiqué un sens contraire pour la première fois. J’ai donc demandé le plus calmement possible où on était exactement et là, horreur, on était au nord de Busuanga, sur la route de l’aéroport mais beaucoup plus haut. Par une chance miraculeuse, un mec s’avance vers nous et nous dit « je parle Français, j’ai passé 2 ans en France pour mes études ». Trop de bol, je n’en revient toujours pas, il devait y avoir 10 maisons à tout casser dans ce village. On lui explique la situation et il nous dit avec un naturel désarmant : « vous n’avez qu’à dormir ici ». Je lui explique que c’est gentil (et j’y serai allé sans problème, je fais une confiance absolue à leur sens de l’hospitalité) mais que nous avons un avion à prendre le lendemain matin à 7h et que c’est le seul avant 3j ! Il a commencé à vouloir nous indiqué le chemin puis nous a dit : « je vais prendre ma moto et vous guider jusqu’à Coron, sinon vous allez vous perdre et vous êtes capable de retourner à Busuanga ! ». Et il l’a fait ! Il nous a trouvé de l’essence (on étaient plus que dans le rouge ), il s’est mis un pote à lui derrière et on est parti. Au bout d’une heure, Alex a fait une grosse crise de fatigue et on a failli ne pas repartir. Il avait de grosses crampes au niveau des bras. On a quand même repris la route pour arriver à Coron à 22h30 !!! J’avais appelé Matt dans le village pour lui dire d’essayer de prévenir l’hôtel qu’on arriverait après le couvre feu. Notre sauveur a refusé l’argent qu’on voulait lui donner, il a quand même accepté quelques billets. Il est reparti de suite, on n’a jamais compris si il était retourné dans son village où si il était resté la nuit à Coron Town. Ce gars s’est quand même tapé 4h de moto pour nous aider, c’est extraordinaire. On était tellement morts qu’on ne sais même pas son nom, ni son adresse, je suis terriblement déçue, j’aurai adoré lui envoyé un mot.
Si jamais quelqu’un (maintenant je crois au miracle) entend parler de cette histoire et rencontre ce mec, pitié, indiquez moi au moins son nom et celui du village, je trouverai peut être un moyen de lui écrire…
Pour nous remettre, on est allé manger chez Bruno à qui nous avons raconté notre aventure. J’ai pris un kilawi, du poisson cru mariné dans une sauce au kalamensi (citron vert) TRES épicé, ça a failli m’achever. Bruno nous a encore raconté pleins de trucs, on s’est couché à 01h du mat.
En tout cas, tout le monde était mort de rire de notre histoire, Bruno, le loueur de moto, l’hôtel…
Cette journée a été la plus éprouvante mais nous avons retenu quelques points : les Philippins sont des gens sur qui on peut compter, qui se mettrait en 4 pour aider. Par contre ne pas leur faire confiance sur les notions d’horaires la route aller et retour puisque nous nous sommes payés le luxe de ne pas passer par le même chemin était magnifique Calauit est à voir (sauf si on a déjà fait des safaris en Afrique, c’est forcément mieux) mais il faut :
o Soit être un pro de la moto et avoir un GPS
o Soit prendre la formule « tout compris » au kokosnuss
o Soit faire comme nous mais on a eu un bol pas possible sur la fin
o Soit le faire en 2j ce qui peut être super car on peut dormir sur place et voir les animaux au crépuscule et à l’aube, ça doit vraiment valoir le coup
Voilà pour cette journée difficile mais qui nous laisse à posteriori un super souvenir. Alex a tout de même gardé des crampes pendant 3 jours et n’a retrouvé sa force complète dans les bras qu’en 15j !
J8 : Coron-El Nido : enfin une journée tranquille (tortue, singes, dauphins)
On s’est levé hyper tôt pour prendre le jeepney de 5h50. Au revoir Coron ! A l’aéroport, on retrouve Matt et Cécille qui arrivent de Manille, ils ne sont pas frais. Pas de scanner mais une fouille à la main de bagages, rapidement expédiée quand le mec est tombé sur le compartiment linge sale de mon sac ! Le vol se passe bien, encore de jolies photos en perspectives. L’aéroport de El Nido est minuscule. On attend 30min pour avoir un tricycle qui ne peuvent pas venir sur le tarmac tant que tous les avions n’ont pas atterri et il y en a un qui vient de Manille directement qui doit se poser. Bourré de touristes Coréens et Américains. On prend donc nos 2 tricycles pour El Nido, environ 15min. On a eu un peu de mal pour trouver un hôtel, beaucoup sont en travaux car c’est la basse saison. On a donc jeté notre dévolu sur la « Casa Buonavista » qui donne directement sur la plage. C’est dommage, on aurait préféré des bungalow mais on a une chambre de 4 avec une vue magnifique (1200P la chambre/nuit). Cécille a déjà commencé à négocié avec un boatman pour les excursions. On est allé prendre notre petit déj à l’incontournable « Art Café ». On s’est tous pris –sauf Cécille qui a besoin de riz – l’american breakfast. Evidemment, les prix sont plus élevés (200P avec boisson) mais on a besoin de se remettre d’une semaine de presque carême. Le cadre est sympa et c’est surtout très bon. On s’achète des crackers et des bananes pour le midi et on part avec notre boatman pour notre première après midi bateau. Il nous amène faire du snorkeling dans l’archipel des « snack Island ». Il y a de beaux poissons et coraux, pas les plus beaux que j’ai vu mais quand même. On visite également le big lagon où l’eau est turquoise et où on a vu des calaos mais pas d’hirondelles. On change à nouveau d’endroit et là nous avons vu une jolie petite tortue que nous avons suivie sur une vingtaine de mètres. En rentrant avec le bateau on a vu des singes sur une petite plage et des dauphins ! Tout près du bateau, c’était génial. Cet après midi bateau nous a couté 1000P pour 4, nettement moins que ce que propose l’art café. Le soir on est allé diner au resto à coté de l’hôtel, sur la gauche, c’est joli car il est décoré avec des lanternes de toutes les couleurs. Matt s’est pris des bananes flambées en dessert, super bonnes. On va se coucher à 21h, on est crevé, tout le monde s’est levé tôt.
J9 : El Nido, le grand tour des îles, mais sous la pluie
Toujours petit déj à l’art café. J’ai les yeux plus gros que le ventre : pancake à la banane avec du miel et milkshake choco-banane (une splendeur). Ensuite, on va faire les courses car le boatman a proposé de nous faire la cuisine à midi : porc, thon, kalamensi, aubergines. On embarque vers 9h. Au programme : Miniloc et Matinloc Island entre autres. Le temps n’est pas terrible. C’est la journée la plus pourrie que nous avons eu de notre séjour, il y a eu beaucoup d’averses. Heureusement on a déjà la tête sous l’eau ! Et ça vaut le coup, fond beaucoup plus beaux qu’hier. A midi, on s’est arrêté sur une plage où on était abrité par la falaise. Le boatman et son assistant font du feu. Cécille avait déjà mis le porc à mariner dans une sauce soja+oignon+kalamensi. C’était délicieux au barbecue, le thon aussi. Et j’ai appris que les aubergines entières sur la grille, c’était super aussi, après elles fondent… Et puis du riz (pour 15). On a visité une petite cave dans une falaise, c’était sympa mais les parois sont très coupantes. L’après midi, encore snorkeling, on a vu de superbes coraux, des poissons perroquets et une famille de Némo dans son anémone. Cette fois pas de dauphins. Cette journée à couté 1600P pour nous 4. Le soir, on est allé manger au resto de droite, le service était vraiment très long et Matt n’a pas eu ses bananes flambées.
J10 : El-Nido, dernière journée de bateau, les crabes, le lapu-lapu
Ce matin, j’ai pris plus frugal, des œufs à la coque. Le pain de l’art café est très bon. Plus de difficulté aujourd’hui pour faire les courses car c’est dimanche, beaucoup de magasins sont fermés (dire que la semaine dernière on était à Pula). On se résigne donc, aujourd’hui, on va mourir de faim. Cette fois, on va sur une île plus éloignée, les coraux sont moins beaux qu’hier mais le paysage est chouette. On s’arrête sur une île où il y a une sorte de sanctuaire chrétien très bizarre où visiblement ont lieu des séminaires. Pour ceux qui aiment le kitch… On a débarqué sur une plage pour déjeuner. Finalement, Cécille avait quand même réussi une quantité importante de bouffe : du porc pour 12 personnes et des bananes. En plus les boatmen avaient pêché 2 énormes crabes et du lapu lapu qu’ils ont fait cuire au barbecue. Heureusement, je faisais autre chose quand ils ont fait cuire les crabes vivants à petit feu. Le lapu lapu est effectivement un poisson très fin et les crabes étaient excellents. L’après midi, on explore une autre plage et on fait un dernier snorkeling. Le boatman arrête le bateau au retour pour qu’on puisse photographier le coucher de soleil, il sait ce qui plait aux touristes. On rentre, on le paye (2200P pour 4, c’était plus loin). Je vous indique les prix qu’il demandait. On lui a toujours laissé 200 ou 300P en plus parce qu’il était vraiment sympa. Avant d’aller diner, on est allé réserver le car pour Puerto-Princessa. Pour Alex et moi, pas de problème, car de bon confort 250P/pers. Par contre, Matt qui devait rentrer à Manille (il faut bien qu’y en ait qui bossent !!!!) avait pris un vol Taytay-Manille en pensant qu’il serait facile de rejoindre Taytay d’El Nido car ce n’est pas vraiment loin et que Taytay a des vols quotidiens pour Manille alors qu’El Nido n’en a que 3/semaine. Et ben en fait ça ne se fait pas, le jeepney pour Taytay ! Notre car s’y arrêtait bien mais à un horaire qui risquait d’être très juste (effectivement ils auraient raté leur vol). On leur a proposé la location d’un minivan 4500p !!! Autant dire quasiment ce qu’ils ont dépensé en 3j. Au final, ils ont du y aller en tricycle mais à 2500P pour 2h de route et ils se souviennent du voyage (genre nous sur notre moto mais en plus court). On a diné au même resto que le premier soir, décidément plus sympa.
Voilà, on va bientôt quitter nos copains et El Nido. J’ai été moins prolixe sur ces quelques jours mais raconter les poissons, c’est difficile, il faut le vivre. En tout cas, contrairement aux avis de certains, savoir plonger en bouteille ça doit être bien mais nous on s’est quand même bien régalé avec notre tuba. Les falaises de calcaires sont impressionnantes, c’est à voir. Nous avons également vu des gens faire du kayak dans le big lagon notamment mais là, pour les débutants, il est impossible de faire le trajet depuis El-Nido, c’est là vrai mer, il y a des vagues et c’est loin. Les personnes que nous avons vu devaient être au Miniloc Hôtel, l’hôtel de luxe sur toutes les cartes postales avec ses bungalow sur pillotis. Ils prennent un bateau et vont à l’endroit où sont amarrés les kayaks pour ensuite en faire tranquillement dans les lagons où là s’est calme. Sinon, il y a des possibilités pour faire de la moto (mais là c’était pas la peine de nous proposer…) et l’art café propose de l’escalade de paroi (ça doit faire mal quand même !).
On a donc pris, Alex et moi, le car de 6h (il y en avait au moins 3 dans la matinée pour Puerto Princessa PP). La route est pas mal (niveau bitume) entre El-Nido et Taytay (2h) puis pourrie entre Taytay et Roxas (4h) et belle jusqu'à PP (3h30 jusqu'à la jonction de Salvation puis 1h après). Par contre niveau paysage, magnifique partout. Entre Taytay et Roxas, il a fallu descendre du bus car il avait plu et il y avait un risque d'embourbement du car plein. Le car qui était parti juste avant nous était d'ailleurs en train de se faire tirer par un tractopelle. Finallement, notre bus a pu traverser sur des planches de bois et on a pu repartir. vers 10h30, on a fait une halte, tout le monde est sorti du bus. Comme ça se prolongeait, je suis sortie aussi, c'était une pause bouffe. une sorte de cantine. On a fait comme tout le monde, on a pris un porc adobo qui était trés bon. A 13h30, idem, là on avait le choix de la bouffe mais on ne saura jamais ce qu'on a mangé : une sorte de daube de tripes avec du riz (qu'on a appelé : le "truc noir" quand il a fallu payer, ils ont compris). On a demandé à être arrêtés à la jonction de Salvation, environ 35km avant PP. On était un peu angoissés quant à la fréquence de passage des jeepneys pour Sabang. Finallement, on a attendu que 45min. Les jeepneys qui font la jonction PP-Sabang (et vice-versa) s'appelent "Eduardo" (on a vu le 1, le 2 et le 3). Il était plein donc il a fallu monter sur le toit, une première pour Alex. On a pas trop profité de la vue imprenable que conseille tous les guides vu qu'il a plu et qu'on s'est retrouvé sous la bache. Ce trajet de 2h a été plutôt éprouvant...on s'arrêtait devant chaque maison, ou presque (ça fait facteur aussi). Quand on est enfin arrivé, j'ai demandé le Mary's Beach Cottages trés recomandé par les guides et les forums et à juste titre : plage super, jolis bungalows trés simples. Le responsable attendait à l'entrée de Sabang et nous y a emmené en van car c'est le dernier cottage de la plage. Bungalow à 500P la nuit. Le soir, on était crevés, on s'est payé le luxe de manger à l'hôtel : poulet-riz pour changer un peu du poisson.
On s'est couché avec le bruit des vagues. C'était une journée "transport" mais avec des paysages splendides et une arrivée qui valait le coup.
A partir de maintenant, ça va être un peu hard parce que j'ai eu la flemme de prendre des notes (ça m'arrive souvent sur les derniers jours, surtout quand j'ai aussi les cartes postales à faire....). J'ai encore des souvenirs, heureusement.
C'était la journée consacrée à la visite de la rivière souterraine. Il y a deux façons d'y arriver : en bateau (avec les coréens), arrivée peu fatigante en 15min ou à pied, arrivée plus fatigués en 2h. Si vous optez pour la marche, il faut retirer un laisser-passer au bureau au centre de Sabang en face de l'arrêt des jeepneys. On vous donne un dépliant avec les 2 chemins pédestres. Je ne me rappelle plus du pris, je crois 200P/pers. Le chemin est le même au début. Après 30min de marche il y a un centre de rangers où il faut donner son laisser-passer et s'inscrire. Après, le chemin se divise. Il y a le Monkey Trail (où on est censé voir des singes, donc) et le Jungle Trail. On a opté pour le Monkey Trail à l'aller. ça ne représente pas de difficulté technique si on regarde où on met les pied, c'est la jungle. La dernière partie est aménagée avec des passerelles ce qui est pratique en cas de boue. nous n'avons vu aucun singe pendant la marche, par contre on en a entendu. Après environ 2h de marche on arrive à l'entrée même du site avec son aire de pique-nique où on retrouve les Coréens frais et dispo qui sortent de leur bateau (je n'ai rien contre les Coréens). Là on a fait la queue car toutes les barques pour voir la rivière étaient prises. Au moins on a vu des singes qui sont habitués à ce qu'on leur donne à manger donc ils collent! Pour visiter la rivière, on est une dizaine par barque avec un guide qui a un projecteur. Il fait la visite en anglais donc on n'a pas tout compris. C'est sympa, il y a des beaux stalagmites et tites mais c'est tout de même assez sombres. Ceux qui ont peur des chauves souris, s'abstenir, il y en a un nombre impressionant! Aprés la visite, on est allé pique niquer sur l'aire dédiée. Les Philippins nous ont dit de faire attention aux singes mais on ne s'est pas assez méfié. ils vont à une vitesse incroyable et il y en a un qui a réussi à nous prendre une banane. Alex était trés mécontent qu'on lui prenne sa bouffe. Les Coréens ont repris leur bateau et nous on a pris le jungle trail cette fois. C'est encore plus enfoncé dans la forêt, on ne voit quasiment pas le ciel. Par contre, aucun risque de se perdre, il y a des marques rouges sur les arbres tous les mètres! Encore pas vus de singes mais la végétation est trés belle. On a mis 2h aussi pour revenir. prévoir de bonnes chaussures car c'est trés glissant (beaucoup de racines). Arrivés à Sabang on a un peu fait les boutiques (T-Shirt, bijoux, artisanat en bois...) et on est allé manger dans un des hôtels. Les resto ont une carte impressionante mais presque rien à l'arrivée. Le plus rapide est de demander ce qu'ils ont. Surtout qu'après le service est TRES long (j'aurai du en profiter pour prendre des notes!...)😎
J13 : relax à Sabang
C'était notre "journée de réserve" que j'avais prévue au cas où on ait un problème de transport ou n'importe quoi d'autre de non prévu. En fait, tout c'est bien passé donc on avait une journée de rab. Comme je n'avais pas l'impression que Puerto Princessa était particulièrement à voir, on a fait relache à Sabang. Le matin, on est resté à l'hôtel pour se baigner. Beaucoup de vagues, avis aux amateurs de surf. Et bronzette sur la plage. On a déjeuné dans un des resto de la plage et on a réservé pour le soir un plat qui nous paraissait sympa. L'après midi on a marché (environ 45min) vers l'ouest pour aller aux chutes qui descendent du mont Bloomfield. Elles tombent à 10m de la mer ce qui en fait un site exceptionnel. On peut se tremper dedans mais l'eau est fraiche. En rentrant on est allé acheter les souvenirs qu'on avait repérés la veille : stock de T-Shirt et bonhomme en bois pour Alex et pour moi, une jolie pagaie en bois, des trucs supers pratiques à transporter (mais du plus bel effet dans notre appart maintenant!). Le soir on a donc mangé dans ce resto. Le plat s'appelle le Kare-Kare : c'était différents morceaux de poissons enrobés dans du beurre de cacahuète et fris. Le tout avec du riz bien sur. Très léger! On ne l'a pas fini. D'après mon guide, ça doit aussi se faire avec du boeuf, avis aux amateurs affamés!
Retour à l'hôtel, dernière nuit sur Palawan.
Je pense que tu as raison, les récits de voyages sont fait pour préparer ceux des autres. Les expériences sont souvent d'ailleurs celles de baroudeurs comme moi ou toi je suppose qui ont peut être tendance à trop surcharger leurs programmes. Pour ceux qui sont moins tentés par ce genre de trips, il y a aussi possibilité aux Philippines de voyager trés confortablement car les lignes aériennes sont bien développées et permettent de ralier beaucoup de points intéressants. les routes étant dans l'ensemble plutôt de bonne qualité ce qui permet des trajets en bus assez tranquilles. Je pense qu'il y a donc sans problème moyen de visiter ce pays magnifique avec des enfants ou des personnes plus âgées. Les Coréens se débrouillent trés bien dans ce domaine. Après le temps qu'il fait, c'est la loterie et il y a peu de musées à voir donc c'est toujours dommage. j'espère vraiment que tu auras plus de chance la prochaine fois!
Et oui, c'est le départ. Pour avoir les horaires exacts des jeepneys pour PP, ça a été un peu le cirque... Tout le monde nous donnait des heures différentes. On est donc parti sur le plus tôt pour être sûrs de ne pas rater notre avion... Cette fois, on s'est mis à l'intérieur, c'est la fin du voyage, on a bien droit à un peu de repos.
La route s'est bien passée, après Salvation le bitume est vraiment nickel et le trajet se fait vite. Le jeepney nous a laissé à un gare routière à l'entrée de PP. Comme il était beaucoup plus tôt que prévu nous sommes allés à l'aéroport en premier en tricycle. On a pu changer les billets d'avion pour prendre un vol plus tôt et on a même pu enregistrer les bagages à l'avance pour s'en débarasser. On avait un peu peur au niveau du poids mais c'est passé. On avait encore 3 bonnes heures à patienter. On a donc repris un tricycle pour aller manger dans un super resto (chui désolée, resto sur la route de l'aéroport à 20min de marche, j'ai oublié le nom, intérieur en bambou style zen avec jolie petite cour, quelqu'un peut m'aider???) où on a mangé un super kalamenci. On est retourné à l'aéroport à pied parce qu'on avait repéré des boutiques d'artisanat. Un conseil pour éviter de vous charger : plutôt que d'acheter à Sabang, si vous avez le temps, ces boutiques de PP sont pleines de jolies choses pas plus chère voire moins qu'à Sabang et beaucoup plus de choix. On n'a finallement rien acheté parce qu'on avait trop peur de l'excédent de bagage... Retour à l'aéroport, il commence à pleuvoir, et donc moi je commence à baliser. Les trajets en avion, j'aime pas... c'est bête mais c'est comme ça.
Et ça a été horrible, des turbulences tout le long, l'avion qui tremblait, je suis sortie de là les nerfs en pelote. On a pris un taxi pour rentrer à Makati, poas faché tout de même de poser ces bagages. Matt est arrivé peut après. On a attendu Cécille qui était encore au boulot. Dîner tous les 4 dans un resto Coréens, c'était sympa de se retrouver. Alex sait que demain une rude matinée l'attend : shopping fringues à Landmark!!!! 😄
Si le nom du resto de PP me revient...
je ne sais pas😊, va voir les discussions de la rubrique "photographie en voyage" je crois qu'il y a une discussion sur le sujet.
Il me tarde de voir tes photos😉
Bonjour,
Super récit....
Nous pensons aller aux Phlippines fin octobre, mais nous avons quelques doutes quand à la fin de la saisn des pluies... Qu'en est-il réellement en octobre vous qui avez fait votre voyage en octobre?
Merci.
salut,
moi aussi je me faisais beaucoup de soucis pour cette période mais nous n'avions vraiment pas le choix.
Sur 17j nous avons eu réellement 2j de pluie mais une pluie assez fine qui ne nous a pas empécher de bouger (une fois en foret vers Banaue, une fois à El Nido mais pas génant pour le snorkellinf). Sinon quelques averses le soir mais rien de méchant.
Les Philippines ne sont pas un pays où tu peux te rabattre sur les musées, évidemment je pense que la pluie peut pourir un séjour mais il faut compter sur sa bonne étoile. Nous n'avons pas eu plus de pluie en octobre que quand j'y étais allée en mars en 2003.
Conclusion : prévoyez des capes de pluie au cas où et faites un beau voyage en octobre dans ce beau pays.
Bon, je ne vais pas vous saouler avec mon shopping à Manille. A noter seulement qu'Alex a plus dévalisé que moi. A midi nous avons déjeuner au sous-sol de Landmark où se trouvent une dizaine de fast-food tous différents. Nous on a mangé dans le chinois un super porc sauce barbecue. Matt m'a dit le soir qu'on avait été fous de manger là, risque de maladies etc... on n'a pas été malades, en tout cas pour l'instant à 3 mois de recul. L'après midi, découverte de Manille pour Alex, circuit classique : le fort Santiago : joli parc, Rizal, le héros national y a fini ses jours. Pour les amateurs, plusieurs boutiques avec des timbres et des aquarelles + diverses cochoneries (mais qui se vendent bien).
le quartier d'Intramuros avec ses belles maisons coloniales Espagnoles, le magasin Thésoro's qui vent de l'artisanat (bois, nacre...) de trés belle qualité donc forcément plus cher qu'ailleurs. L'église St Augustin et cathédrale trés belles (attention : filles en débardeurs non admises, se couvrir les épaules).
le Rizal Park avec ses jardins à thèmes
Roxas avenue sur la baie de Manille (à faire au coucher du soleil +++). Avec ses trés beaux lampadaires, on se croirait à Noël. Pour les nostalgiques qui connaissaient cette avenue AVANT, en 2003 il y avait plein de gargottes sur le trottoir le soir où on pouvait manger des brochettes et boire une bière en regardant le coucher du soleil. Elles ont été interdites (vente d'alcool interdite sur la voie publique). Je lance une pétition! C'est vraiment dommage qu'elles aient disparues!!!!!!!!😠
En se faisant ammener en taxi au fort Santiago, on a fait le reste à pied pour reprendre le taxi à Roxas (sauf si vous êtes à Malate Pension -où j'étais en 2003, très bien, mérite sa réputation- dans ce cas, c'est tout à faire à pied sauf pour les paresseux). Il y a également un métro à Manille, Matt me l'a déconseillé (trop compliqué) et Alex n'avait pas envie gna gna gna. Mais résultats bouchons +++ avec le taxi à l'aller et au retour alors qu'il y a une station à coté de Roxas.
On a fait ça un peu au pas de course, le mieux c'est de prévoir une journée, une capitale est toujours intéressante à voir et quel contraste avec le reste du pays!!!
Le soir, diner avec Matt et Cécille au resto Japonais.
Vous pensez que demain on va reprendre l'avion, mais non! Demain on fait encore quelque chose...😄
Je ne sais pas, en tout cas on a trés bien mangé, on regrette qu'il n'y en ai pas en France😊. C'est toujours pareil du moment que c'est bien cuit etc... c rare qu'il n'y ai un problème, juste faire un peu attention... à ce qu'on commande
Merci de me remémorer les bons souvenirs de Palawan.... La prochaine fois tentez un stop à Port Barton et Cacnipa Island, on peut y alle ren bateau depuis El Nido, puis continuer en bateau vers Sabang.
Comment va ce vieux brigand de Bruno ??? Antropologue de formation le monsieur...et "surpenant" patron de restau 😉
Voilà, c'est notre dernier jour. Matt avait envie d'aller dans un endroit qu'il ne connaissait pas et avait entendu parler du Mont Makiling. On avait réserver un taxi car les liaisons en bus avaient l'air douteuses depuis Manille. Je ne me souviens plus combien nous avons payé mais vu que ça nous a pris la journée, c'était vraiment raisonable et ça permettait d'être libres au niveau des horaires. Pour aller au Mont Makiling, c'est environ 2h30 de route. On arrive dans une ville universitaire (trés impressionant campus à l'Américaine). On a un peu galéré pour trouver le départ du sentier, les Philippins n'étant pas des randonneurs par excellence. Le départ est dans le campus, au milieu de pas grand chose sans aucune indication. Comme on était samedi, campus vide et les rares personnes a qui on a demandé ne voyaient pas du tout de quoi on leur parlait. Donc, on a fini par trouver un peu par hasard. Il y a une cahute de gardes à l'entrée avec des gardes dedans par miracle. Ils nous ont expliqués qu'on ne pouvait pas aller au sommet car il y avait eu des coulées de boue et un glissement de terrain. On pouvait quand même marcher pas mal, il y avait un panneau pour indiquer la limite à ne pas franchir. On a donc payé un petit droit d'entrée et on a commencé notre ballade. Large sentier trés bien entretenu, aucun problème technique. Petite montée d'une heure dans la forêt, jolies fleurs bref sympa.On arrive à un rassemblement de petits magasins qui vendent des noix de coco, des boissons, des crackers etc... Les gens sont là et attendent, on ne peut pas dire qu'il y ait foule. Sûrement plus de monde en semaine avec les étudiants. Pendant qu'on mange notre pique-nique arrive un jeepney bondé, les paresseux... Alex rale, il n'aime pas marcher quand on peut y aller autrement. Je les pousse quand même (sauf Cécille qui préfêre rester papoter avec les commerçants) à continuer après le repas. On est donc allé jusqu'à des sources chaudes sulfureuses à souhait (au fait, le Mont Makiling est un volcan) où finallement Cécille nous a rejoint (on va quand même en faire une marcheuse 😄). Puis un peu plus loin où ça devenait plus sauvage, belle végétation, on est enfin arrivés à notre barrière. Matt a refusé de faire un pas de plus après le panneau. Il faut dire que ça ne faisait pas envie, arbres en travers, boue etc... dommage, on était certainement pas loin du sommet et il y aurai eu une belle vue, il faisait beau.
On est donc redescendu, le taxi nous attendait. On est revenu à Manille en fin d'après midi, juste à temps avant que le pressing ferme. Matt n'avait en effet pas de balance chez lui et il fallait absolument qu'on pèse nos bagages. Je vous raconte pas la tête des bagages entre ma pagaie de Sabang, le gardien de riz de banaue, le bonhomme d'Alex de 60 cm de haut, le tout enveloppé dans les treillis pourris, des sacs plastiques etc... le salon de Matt était complètement envahi, ça a dû lui faire vide quand on est parti. Finallement on a pu tout emporter, mais pas 1kg de plus! Un conseil : prévoyez un bagage à main pile poil autorisé (le sac ikéa bleu va parfaitement dans le parallélépipède type de KLM -doivent avoir une convention- et c'est solide) pour pouvoir prendre les choses fragiles ou répartir les kilos pour ne pas avoir de surpoids en soute.
Voilà, fin de notre voyage, nous sommes reparti le lendemain matin dimanche à 11h, arrivée à Bordeaux à 22h30, reprise du boulot le lundi et ouais!
Mais des souvenirs plein la tête et plein l'appartement pour nous rappeler les bons moments et même les mauvais et la magie du voyage c'est qu'ils se transforment souvent en bons au retour. J'espère avoir donné des envies, des clients pour notre guide de Batad (parce que pour les 10 enfants, il ne doit pas trop y compter quand même...). A votre disposition pour d'autres infos ou des précisions. Prochain voyage pour nous, La Réunion en mai.
Un grand merci pour ce superbe récit avec plein d'astuce (exemple Kayak pour rejoindre l'île Coron, ...).
Je n'ai pas encore tout lu, mais çà ne va pas tarder... Quelques extraits macompagnerons certainements lors de mon prochain voyage.
Je serai au Philippines 14 jours fin décembre. Itinéraire : Manille-Busuanga-El Nido-Purto Princesa-Manille
Je cherche des hébergements sympas, des spots de snokeling magnifique, les randos.
Hi everyone, We (two adults, 74 and 70 years old) had already shared a travel journal about our first trip to the Philippines in February/March 2019 on this…
I’m sharing a little recap of this new 4-week trip to China—nothing fancy, just my experience.
We’re taking advantage of the extended visa exemption to return to China for the 4th time. I loved last summer’s trip so much that I’m a bit worried about being disappointed this year. Plus, I’ve had a few hiccups before this departure: my WeChat account got blocked, and I couldn’t recover it (luckily, Alipay still works fine); I couldn’t verify my 12306 account for weeks; Trip.com failed to book our second train; and I’ve got an injury that’ll slow me down during the trip... Ugh, I hate starting a trip with these kinds of issues. Then, oh surprise! Just before leaving, my 12306 account got verified! Super easy to use from that point on—I could book a few train tickets without fees.
We’re sticking with Free’s e-SIMs, which work great in China.
August 2–3
Anyway, on the morning of August 2nd, we took the RER to CDG. As usual, we couldn’t check in online. It’s always a bit frustrating, especially since we didn’t have any checked luggage. We flew with Air China. We arrived at the check-in counter at 9:50 AM, 2 hours and 40 minutes before the flight. The line for our check-in stretched 300 meters across the airport in both directions. What a joke!! We spent 1 hour and 45 minutes in that line just to reach the counter and get our boarding passes. By then, it was 11:35 AM, and boarding had already started at 11:20 AM. The screens showed a 25-minute walk to our gate—on the other side of the airport, of course—plus we had to go through passport control and security... Long story short, the plane didn’t leave without us 🙂 We boarded among the last passengers, and we took off at 12:30 PM. We’d flown Air China four times before, but this time, it felt *really* low-cost. The check-in chaos, the cramped seats (12 seats per row), no music by artists known outside China, mediocre food, and a boarding area at Beijing Airport with only 10 seats—worthy of Ryanair or EasyJet. And yet, the price was sky-high. Again, D.’s vacation requests were denied outside of July and August, so we’re traveling from August 2nd to 30th. We couldn’t have picked a worse time for inflated prices, and with the situation in Iran, we got hit with a 390 € fuel surcharge. I’ve never paid so much for flights—I felt like I’d bought business class, but nope, far from it!!
We landed in Beijing around 4:15 AM. It was 28°C with thick fog. We drove and drove and drove for 20 minutes, as usual in Beijing. Then we went through a first check, a second check, a third check, and waited for our connecting flight at 6:40 AM. A small Airbus A320, but way more space than in the Boeing 777 from the first flight. We landed in Kunming, Yunnan, around 10:15 AM in the rain.
We headed to the subway. You can’t pay at the machines with Alipay here either, so we set up the transport QR code directly in Alipay to scan at the subway gates. The process is a bit long the first time if you haven’t entered your info before, but once it’s done, it’s *so* much easier! We took Line 6 to the terminus for 6 yuan each.
We’d booked a hotel nearby, on the 16th floor. It’s actually studios on different floors of a huge residential building. The view’s pretty nice from here. We settled in quickly—back to those wooden beds, or rather, mattresses as hard as wood, which we *hadn’t* missed...
Then we went out for our first bowl of noodles of the trip and wandered through the shopping streets of the old town.
It was crowded, and the weather was cool—around 19–20°C. We tried a local specialty: milk skin, thick, dried, then grilled with rose jam. Yeah... we won’t be having that again. The taste and texture of the milk skin... no thanks.
We saw a lot of wild mushroom hotpot too. It’s on our list for later. We also passed through the Jinma and Biji gates, where I played with reflections in puddles. I *love* doing that 🙂
At the end of the day, we headed to a temple advertised as open 24/7 on Amap. Of course, when we got there, it was closed. We’ll go back tomorrow. That was the first of many disappointments with Amap this trip—I hadn’t had that issue on previous visits.
We were exhausted after that sleepless flight. Night was falling, and we decided to grab a quick bite without much appetite. We shared a delicious vegetable fried rice for 12 yuan—we even left half of it. The portions are *huge*.
After a couple of small purchases, we headed back at 9 PM, wiped out, after walking 17 km between the airports and these first steps in Kunming. I expected to see quite a few Western travelers here, but we didn’t spot a single one. Instead, we met lots of curious Chinese people, many of them super friendly and helpful—almost *too* eager, like when they’d run to serve us as fast as possible. It’s a bit much, but it’s great to be back!
This travel journal is therefore intended solely for my photos, to present a consistent style.
All the shots were taken with a simple Samsung Galaxy smartphone and with whatever was at hand.
All stays combined, I’ve spent the equivalent of three years at most in Thailand, and I’m not a big expert on the country.
However, after many trips, lots of reading on VoyageForum and other sites, and conversations with many locals as well as expats, my view of the country is becoming clearer, though it’s constantly evolving. You never stop discovering and learning.
I guess I wanted to piece together a puzzle, mainly for those who want to get an idea of the country here and for those who miss it.
I don’t know if this minimalist sharing will interest anyone, but it’ll do me good to put it together. After so many months without traveling and then these other long months with VF closed, there’s plenty of material available.
There’ll be a mix of places, periods, and subjects, but it might well be intentional.
I suspect many Thais have dogs because they make excellent guards for the home. Nothing better to deter burglars or to signal the presence of a snake. You’ll often see Thais tapping the top of their dog’s head, but don’t be fooled: it’s a sign of affection from them. Judging by the dogs’ reactions, they’re used to it.
Thailand is one of the countries on the planet where rabies is still present, so keep that in mind. It’s not just bites that can be dangerous, so don’t let just any dog lick you. Especially on a wound, of course.
Even though dogs often fear humans—this dangerous and unpredictable predator—we still need to stay cautious.
Be careful when walking into alleys because the dog will defend its master’s big property, be careful at night, and be careful when they’re in packs.
It sometimes crosses our minds that Thailand isn’t really made for walking around, and dogs are one of the reasons.
That said, it’s not uncommon to see them chasing bikes or scooters. Cars, though, are much rarer—they’re too big.
It seems Thais prefer to give their dogs freedom by not locking them behind gates. Though sometimes the gate is closed, the little side door is wide open. Oh, and sometimes there’s no gate in front of the property, or it’s been broken for years.
You’ll often see dogs sleeping on the side of the road, sometimes right on the road. When you arrive, they move aside nonchalantly—or not at all. It’s less funny when they suddenly appear from thick vegetation, which reminds visitors not to drive too fast. As a result, you’ll notice that dogs with injuries or missing legs aren’t that rare.
Since they believe in reincarnation and respect for all forms of life, they don’t chase dog packs away too much, and they don’t sterilize them enough. Seeing a small pack roaming freely in the countryside, you might think it’s best not to cross paths with them at the edge of a field.
A darker side of this is that euthanasia isn’t often practiced. Twice, we saw dogs at temples on the brink of death, enduring terrible suffering. No one did anything about it. The image (and the smell) of one of them, dying and emitting the stench of death, still comes back to me sometimes.
Some of you may have seen the YouTube vlog of a French woman living in Phuket who was given a little pig by her Thai friends. The well-fed animal quickly became a happy, enormous beast with its own garden. Yet, it didn’t take long for it to fall seriously ill and become incurable. In her video, the French woman described how difficult it was to find a vet willing to perform euthanasia.
You’ll often see bowls by the side of the road. Thais leave food and water in them for stray cats and dogs. Overall, they have a big heart for animals.
If you ever pop into a shopping mall, you might see people pushing their small dogs in strollers. It’s not a gimmick—it’s just that these strollers are provided for customers to put their pets in, otherwise you can’t bring them inside. It looks a bit odd when you expect to see a baby.
Here we go with this second travel journal dedicated to the American West! It’s a must when you love it! 😊
We had left off in the charming town of Bisbee, which once thrived thanks to its copper mines. Today, mining is a thing of the past, and the town seems a bit sleepy.
Unfortunately, I didn’t dig deep enough on-site to answer all the questions my observations raised. Guess I’ll have to *dig* into the subject a bit more... no pun intended! 😊
Let’s hop back in the car and head a little further south to check out the esplanade that offers a view—if you can call it that—of the impressive open-pit mine.
Then, it’s off to the Lowell neighborhood.
Preserved almost exactly as it was, this area must’ve been bustling in its heyday. The vintage cars are still around, storefronts and signs look like they’re straight out of another era, and the whole place has a pretty amazing vibe. You’d almost think you were on Route 66!
Here, we’re not just discovering an old neighborhood—it’s a little slice of American history. And, a detail that’s great for my physical health: the area isn’t too spread out.
Lucky me! 😊
I won’t post too many photos here since I think I can turn them into a future photo exhibit. Between these and some shots from Route 66, I should have more than enough material! So, let’s keep a few under wraps... to preserve the surprise. 😊
For those planning a trip to Kerala, here’s a quick, practical summary.
For the most part: the stunning landscapes, the natural kindness of the locals, their cuisine, and their culture—you’ll get to enjoy all of that once you’re there...
Flight (arrival and departure to/from Cochin)
Avoid Air India and opt for flights via the Middle East: Saudi Arabia, Qatar, United Arab Emirates, Oman, etc.
Price: between 500 € and 600 €
Accommodations
Average price: 20 € per night for a couple (max: 40 €, min: 10 €, often including breakfast), via the usual booking sites.
Homestays (staying in the owner’s house) are of a higher standard.
Only 2 nights were spent in questionable cleanliness. The rest were good, even very good, or even *very* very good.
Car with Driver
All-inclusive daily price: tolls, fuel, driver’s lodging and meals... and of course, we often shared our meals with our driver too.
Toyota sedan (e.g., Corolla) for 4 travelers (1 in front, 3 in the back): 50 € / day,
Toyota SUV (e.g., Innova) for up to 6 travelers: 60 € / day
DM me if you’d like more details.
Overall budget (excluding flights and shopping)
Around 1500 € for 1 couple for the 3 weeks... in "2-couple mode"!
(i.e., sharing the driver’s cost).
Itinerary
Night 1: Arrival in Cochin in the morning, departure for Attirappily
Beautiful waterfalls
Night 2: Thrissur
Via Vallachira, not much tourist interest, a stop to ease into the trip and shorten the journey to Wayanad
Nights 3, 4, 5: Wayanad, staying in Sultan Battery
Coffee and tea plantations, dam lake, URAVU (bamboo craft workshop), ...
Night 6: Ooty
Botanical garden, then a really fun tourist train the next afternoon to Metupalaiyam
Night 7: Toward Coimbatore
Nights 8, 9, 10: Munnar
City visit, stunning tea plantations
Nights 11, 12: Thekkady/Kumilly
Amazing tea plantations, sightseeing, Jeep ride, not-so-interesting boat tour on Periyar Lake, trekking options
Night 13: Marari Beach (near Alleppey)
4-hour backwaters tour, then beach (swimming, dinner)
Nights 14, 15, 16: Munroe Island
Super chill, walks around the island (small coir rope factory), sunrise by boat or canoe, sunset
Night 17: Varkala
Gorgeous beaches, shopping
Night 18: Trivandrum
City center visit, then train back to Cochin the next day in 3 hours.
Night 19: Cochin
Fort Kochi is a lovely way to wrap up the trip
Have a great trip in this incredible region, so unique in India!
"So, my little wanderers, back at the decks? What’s this mystery destination you’ve got in store for us at the start of the year?"
Yes, the schoolyard bell’s ringing again! We’re hitting the road... or rather, the skies! At first glance, our destination might surprise more than a few. First off, simply because I was here exactly twenty years ago, and I don’t usually like retracing my own footsteps. Secondly, because the name of this place screams mass tourism—basically the opposite of what Flo and I look for.
Despite that, in this land of backsheesh, I’d promised myself I’d come back one day to experience it my way. And since Flo told me, during our wanderer chats, that this destination straddling Africa and the Middle East was in her top 2 travel dreams, the stars aligned for this roots-style trip to quickly make it onto our pharaonic festivities program! Unless you’re totally clueless in general knowledge, you’ve probably guessed by now—we’re off to Egypt! Of course, a few classics will be on our itinerary, but above all, we want to soak up a culture that can’t be appreciated in four-star resorts or on a Nile cruise boat. And let’s be clear, these next two weeks won’t be a walk in the park—neither for our two daughters who are joining us, nor for our bodies!
And that’s clear from the get-go: after our first flight, eight hours of trying (and failing) to sleep on Milan airport’s metal seats, our second flight, landing, passport stamps, our Uber ride, and our first Cairo kilometers, we finally drop our exhaustion at the little guesthouse we booked in Giza. Doesn’t all that energy deserve a little reward?
Oh, absolutely! And here it is: a full-on slap in the face for everyone! But just look at this view from our hotel terrace? For 20 € a night for four, even with this incredible view, I figured the room must be pretty shabby, right? Nope... Is the staff rude, then? Nope... Okay, so what’s the catch? You’re gonna tell me breakfast is included too? Well, yes! Honestly, this Egypt trip is off to a great start.
And the rest of the afternoon, spent rubbing shoulders with locals, only confirmed this vibe. After digesting our pyramid view, we dove into the hustle and bustle of our neighborhood with the goal of exchanging money, eating at street stalls, and testing the hospitality of the locals. Ten out of ten!
Eight little sun breads with baba ganoush and falafel? 80 pounds, or 1.5 €. A dozen Middle Eastern pastries? Same! 80 pounds! Two hawawshis, those little pita breads stuffed with meat and spices? 10 pounds each, or about twenty cents! Not to mention all those smiles and free "welcomes" left and right!!!
What a welcome! We end this first day with a sunset over the three sisters of Giza—where we’ll obviously be gawking tomorrow...
I love islands. So it’s no surprise that the Azores have been catching my eye for a few years now. The first time I suggested them to my dear partner back in 2021, he preferred the Lofoten Islands—an excellent choice, as it turned out, since we got to visit them with hardly any crowds. But for various reasons, the opportunity didn’t come up again in the following years. Until last year, that is. But by then, we’d left it too late—too late for the Azores, I mean—and the choice of accommodations on Flores and São Jorge was extremely limited. We decided to skip it without even looking at car rentals. So this year, we booked our flights, lodgings, and cars well in advance (between December of last year and early this year).
The Azores consist of nine islands, so you have to make choices. I quickly ruled out São Miguel, which deserves a week all to itself: from reading various blogs, some travelers seemed disappointed after visiting the other islands, even feeling it lacked the charm unique to the Azores. True or not, that was reason enough to leave it out.
In the end, we wanted to go to Flores for its lush nature (and because it’s reputed to be the most breathtaking), to São Jorge for its rural/nature vibe, and to Terceira for its cultural side and its *impérios* (more on that later). With the time we had, we could add another island without rushing. We like to take our time and wander a bit. Generally, whether it’s a viewpoint or a hike, we always spend more time than everyone else. Pico won out over Faial thanks to its wine culture. And of course, there’s Corvo, which is usually visited as a day trip from Flores. I thought it’d be nice to spend the night there to experience the atmosphere once most tourists had left. I hesitated between one or two nights and ultimately went with two (so we wouldn’t be rushed by the boat schedule). It was an excellent decision.
Here’s how it all panned out:
August 25: departure for Terceira via Lisbon at 7:40 AM;
August 25–29: Terceira;
August 29: flight to Corvo. It was supposed to take half a day, and we were meant to arrive in the early afternoon, but between schedule changes and delays, it ended up taking almost the whole day;
August 29–31: Corvo;
August 31: boat to Flores around 8:30 AM;
August 31–September 5: Flores;
September 5: flight to Faial in the early afternoon (originally scheduled for the morning, but the times changed)—visit to Horta;
September 6: boat to São Jorge around 9:00 AM;
September 6–11: São Jorge;
September 11: boat to Pico at 11:15 AM;
September 11–16: Pico;
September 16: flight to Paris via Lisbon from Pico around 10:30 AM.
We had to juggle a bit to optimize the prices of our flight tickets from Paris and the inter-island travel.
And we still haven’t seen everything!
Before setting off for new horizons at the end of this year, it’s time for me to share my trip to Cape Verde this summer 2025.
I particularly love these spontaneous trips, and our stay in Cape Verde is one of those because it was only at the beginning of April that we decided on this getaway, which had been catching our eye for a while, given our love for the mountains.
As always—well, when it’s open—I turned to VF, and I want to immediately thank Marie, aka ptitortue, who helped me a lot in planning this trip through her travel journals and our exchanges!
Because Cape Verde is both small and vast! We decided not to rush from one airport to another, to enjoy the places and the people, but also to relax, since the work backlog from being stuck in May (see my previous travel journal 😅) had to be caught up on in June.
So, 4 islands will be our winners from 06/28 to 07/19:
Santiago first for logistical reasons, as round-trip flights from the capital Praia were the cheapest (650 €/person from Lyon via Lisbon with TAP, still!)
São Vicente, because it’s the gateway to the next one but ultimately more than that...
Santo Antão, pretty much the main goal of the trip since Marie (and the photos) had really sold it to me.
And finally, Sal Island, for some rest—a non-negotiable condition for my other half—and we’ll see that I should’ve listened to Marie...
That said, what a chatterbox I am—buckle up, flight attendants at the doors, off we go on new beautiful escapes! (Thanks to Sophie for the easy loan)
Last note for my eager fan club 😏: yes, there will be alcohol—how could there not be in the land of grogue!
Hi everyone, I’m Patrick, 67 years old, a seasoned traveler (already 22 trips outside Europe).
In autumn 2025, I took my first 3-week trip to Japan, with stops in Tokyo, Kamakura, Matsumoto, Kamikochi, Takayama, Kanazawa, Kyoto, Nara, Osaka, Koyasan, Tokyo again, and Nikko.
I wanted to go back in May 2026 and explore some lesser-known places to complement my first trip.
Last year, there were four of us traveling together to discover Japan (a fairly classic itinerary). This time, I’ll be traveling solo for part of the trip and with a couple of French friends for the rest.
The weather was gorgeous in May, averaging around 25°C, with two very hot days in Kyoto and only two rainy days.
As usual, I organized everything myself, gathering plenty of information from various sites, including this one.
Transportation:
An ICOCA card is essential.
I got a 5-day Kansai-Hiroshima pass because I took the shinkansen between Hiroshima and Osaka three times, and it paid for itself quickly.
Accommodations:
Mostly through Booking. No issues at all. Average cost was 46 € per night.
Meals:
For breakfast, I alternated between buying food at a konbini to eat in my room or on the train and grabbing something at local cafés.
For lunch and dinner, I tried to vary my meals as much as possible—lots of sashimi, sushi, and ramen.
Okonomiyaki in Osaka and Hiroshima.
Oysters in every form (raw, grilled, fried) in Onomichi and Hiroshima.
A variety of seafood (shrimp, shellfish) in Hiroshima and Matsumoto.
Fish whose names often escaped me, but notably mackerel and eel (unagi).
Tempura and gyoza.
Chicken skewers (yakitori) and one teppanyaki meal.
One omakase meal (9 different dishes).
In the end, not much meat aside from a few yakitori skewers. No splurges on super expensive wagyu or Kobe beef.
Average dinner cost: 4,800 yen, drinks included.
The Itinerary:
Day 1: Departure from Brussels
Day 2: Arrival in Osaka
Day 3: To Himeji, then Kurashiki
Day 4: To Fukuyama, then Tomo no Ura, then Onomichi
Day 5: Cycling the Shimanami Kaido
Day 6: To Takahara, then Hiroshima
Day 7: To Kyoto to attend the Aoi Matsuri parade
Day 8: To Miyajima
Day 9: Hiroshima, then Kyoto
Day 10: Southern Kyoto
Day 11: Northern Kyoto
Day 12: Final day in Kyoto, then to Nagatsugawa
Day 13: Start of the Nakasendo Trail (Magome to Tsumago)
Day 14: Second day of the trail (Kiso Fukushima)
Day 15: Third day of the trail (Narai), then Matsumoto
Day 16: To Mt. Fuji (Kawaguchiko)
Day 17: To Tokyo
Day 18: Excursion to Enoshima and Kamakura
Day 19: Flight home, with a 10-hour layover in Hong Kong
Day 20: Arrival in Brussels
Alright, this year, we're heading back to South America!
The initial plan was to retrace the route we imagined in the summer of 2020: a trip to northern Argentina starting from Córdoba.
Unfortunately, the flight to Córdoba no longer exists, and airfares to Javier Milei’s country are both outrageously priced and involve multiple layovers.
So, I tweaked Google Flights every which way and finally found a flight within my budget—departing from Clermont-Ferrand!
Not to Argentina, though...
Our transatlantic flight will cross the snow-capped Andes, landing in Santiago, Chile, with a return from Lima!
In between, two domestic flights and a big road trip loop starting from the coastal city of Arica to explore the treasures of northern Chile.
Our mode of transport: a pseudo 4x4 that won’t take us through sand dunes or devilish tracks but will let us tackle the entire secondary network, including unpaved main roads, while still being insured.
Is the suitcase packed with all-season clothes?
Are the driver’s license and passport ready?
Bank cards and a few euros too?
Off we go for just over 3 weeks of southern wanderings!
--/--
To keep all my esteemed readers on track, here are a few maps outlining the Arica-Arica loop!
1- From Arica to San Pedro de Atacama via Pica and the Salar de Huasco
2- Around San Pedro
3- From San Pedro to Cariquima
4- From Cariquima to Putre
5 - From Putre to Arica
Gas stations in this part of Chile are located in Arica, Iquique, Pozo Almonte, Pica, Calama, and San Pedro de Atacama.
It was winter, a winter with beautiful weather,
A season that only exists in the southwest of America,
I remember very well what I told you that morning
A month ago... A century ago, an eternity ago...
We’ll go... wherever you want, whenever you want...
Well, yeah, back from our adventure in our enchanting American West just a month ago, we’re already taking a bite out of one of its lesser-known competitors. "Flo, if you had to pick just one reason to justify your love for the U.S., what would it be?" The greasy, dripping burgers? No, I don’t think I’m going out on a limb by saying it’d be the wide-open spaces... And that’s exactly what our new quest is taking us to—a land on the other side of the globe where the horizon also seems endless, where silence tastes like salty wind and sand, where freedom is measured in kilometers of desert tracks, where the GPS is mostly there to confirm you’re lost in the middle of nowhere... Add to that magic formula the fact that you’ll see more zebras, giraffes, wildebeest, and elephants than people per square kilometer, and you can imagine us setting foot in Southern Africa for the first time, more precisely at the small airport in Windhoek, capital of... of...? Brush up on your geography, damn it! We’re landing in Namibia!!!
To be honest, Namibian landscapes have been flirting with me for ages. So how did I resist this island of temptation for so long? First, the budget. Let’s just say that for the same amount of effort (and kidneys), the bank lets you choose two other adventures almost anywhere else on the planet. Then there were my girls. Yeah, back then, they were too little to dose up on Malarone, the only malaria remedy at the time... Long story short, ten years later, all the planets have aligned. First, I won the Euromillions! Well, almost... Let’s just say my girls are now old enough... not to take Malarone, but to stop following me on all my adventures! Jackpot! "Flo, how about a little two-person caprice, just the two of us, tackling the Namibian tracks?"
As we landed on the runway, first wow effect: The horizon is immense. It’s flat as can be, incredibly flat... So much flat space! Did I mention it was flat?... Looking into the distance, it feels like your gaze could circle the Earth without hitting a single obstacle—until you end up staring at your own backside. "Oh, what a nice view!" Well, it’s the first time I’ve seen my butt from this angle! Touching moment... Sorry, I’m rambling—must be the exhaustion from the three-flight marathon we just powered through via Ethiopia and South Africa... And yet, no time to philosophize about my anatomy. As usual, we want to rack up our first kilometers to be front and center at dawn tomorrow. After wrapping up the tedious Namibian immigration formalities and meeting the 4x4 that’ll be our companion day and night for the next fifteen days, we’re off! We’re not exactly fresh, but we’re ready to tackle the next five hundred kilometers in night mode, cruise control set due south! Just outside Windhoek, the local wildlife—a jackal—welcomes us with a smile: "Welcome to Namibia!" That’s what it said! Honest... Okay, first endless straight road, first flaming sunset, first corrugated dirt track, first Milky Way with zero light pollution... You get it—it’s definitely the day of firsts... First night camping, too, in the big trunk of our Toyota Fortuner parked by the side of the track... The real adventure, the kind that smells under the arms, can finally begin...
I’m reposting here a travel journal originally published on the Routard forum in 2022 during VoyageForum’s hiatus. Without altering its content, I’ll try to streamline it. The few comments on the political situation reflect my feelings at the time and don’t account for events since then! I’d rather avoid debates on the topic. The photos are nothing fancy—just illustrative.
The context: we’re coming out of COVID. We’re looking for a not-too-distant destination, and Jordan has been catching our eye for a while. After some thought, we wonder if we shouldn’t take advantage of the geography to hop over to Israel. After all, Jerusalem is less than 100 km from Amman. Plus, Transavia lets you combine both destinations.
To plan our trip (February 19 to March 4, 2022), we contacted three French-speaking agencies in Amman. Their itinerary proposals were pretty similar, but the prices varied significantly. Given the many positive reviews we read on travel forums and a very attractive rate compared to competitors, we quickly settled on Ahmad Ababseh’s agency. Still, deep down, we had a slight worry—so many glowing reviews seemed a bit over the top, but we took the chance.
During the preparation, which happened in a very short timeframe (less than 10 days), Ahmad didn’t provide detailed roadbooks, and we made do with brief email or phone exchanges. Few details were shared either. We discussed hotels, with Ahmad preferring the ones he knew. We picked our hotel for our arrival in Amman, but before agreeing, Ahmad insisted on inspecting the rooms.
For payment, Ahmad only asked for a 500 € deposit and trusted our word for the balance, which we paid upon arrival. He also committed in writing to refund the full deposit if our trip was canceled due to COVID.
Finally, for the Israeli part, Ahmad contacted an agency in Jerusalem to handle the logistics. He didn’t take a commission.
Off to Southern Africa again! This time, the trip wasn’t just about wildlife—it was also about the local cultures and the breathtaking landscapes Mother Nature has to offer. It was an emotional rollercoaster in every way, as you’ll see.
We visited two countries: Zambia, known for its reserves, and Malawi, which is less well-known but absolutely worth a visit. Our flight landed in Lilongwe, Malawi’s capital, where our vehicle was waiting—though with a 3-hour delay. It was a 4x4 without the rooftop tent this time, since we stayed in lodges (prices are very reasonable in Malawi). Just a heads-up: don’t exchange money at the airport or banks—the official rate was 1,750 Malawian kwacha to $1. On the black market, the rate was between 3,000 and 3,500 kwacha, making the cost of living much cheaper.
With that out of the way, our first stop was South Luangwa National Park in Zambia. The first hiccup came at the Malawi-Zambia border: we were missing a document the rental company had forgotten. After some back-and-forth, they sent it via WhatsApp ($20 to get it validated by the police). But things got worse—the car’s chassis number was off by one digit from the registered one. I thought our trip was over before it even started! After what felt like forever, we got through with a "tip" of $200. Total border crossing time: 3 hours, costing nearly $400. We arrived in South Luangwa after dark.
Thankfully, the next day made up for it with an incredible day in the park (check out the photos).
We spent two full days in South Luangwa before heading to Katete for the Kulamba ceremony.
Kulamba is an annual event held at the end of August, celebrating the Chewa people, who live across Zambia, Malawi, and Mozambique. The Chewa king attends, and representatives from neighboring nations bring offerings. Thousands gather for dances, speeches, and a massive market. There are few tourists, making it a truly authentic experience.
After a few days in Zambia, we returned to Malawi (the border crossing this time was smooth—just 45 minutes). Next stop: Lake Malawi.
Lake Malawi covers over 20% of the country and stretches 580 km. It’s home to a family of fish called cichlids, some of which are endemic to the lake. I recommend taking a day trip from Cape Maclear for snorkeling and to watch the fishing eagles swoop down to catch fish.
We hit the road again to visit Liwonde Reserve, where we had a few surprises. The lodge was on the other side of the river that borders the park, and the elephants didn’t seem to care. On the way from reception to our rooms, elephants blocked our path, and one even charged just before the stairs leading to our treehouse-style rooms.
To top it off, monkeys ransacked our rooms, tearing through plastic bags for food. A mixed experience, but no real harm done.
Next up: the mountains, specifically the Mulanje Massif. This is where Malawi’s tea is grown, and it’s also a great spot for day hikes or multi-day treks. The scenery is stunning, though sometimes the mist rolls in and hides it.
After the mountains, we visited another reserve: Majete. The park is growing and now has more wildlife. We saw lions and even caught a fleeting glimpse of a leopard. And of course, the elephants got involved again—this time giving us a real scare.
During the morning game drive with a guide, we stopped to watch a herd of elephants feeding. Everything was fine until, for some reason, a female got spooked—probably for her calf—and positioned herself in front of us on the track. After a few minutes, we thought the elephants would move on, but then a young one started provoking us. The problem? We had females and calves in front of us, but also two large adult males—one behind us and one to the side.
We were trapped, and even our guide looked nervous. After what felt like an eternity (though it was only a few minutes), the herd finally moved on, freeing the track. That afternoon, we did a self-drive safari and—you guessed it—we had zero interest in running into elephants again.
The next day, we headed back to Lilongwe for our flight home. It was a fantastic, varied trip with some intense moments (sometimes *too* intense). Malawi offers amazing opportunities for those who want more than just wildlife reserves.
Preamble:
Africa was calling to me, so a year ago, with our usual travel companions, we decided to return to the continent we love so much.
Where to go?
Uganda quickly caught our attention—wildlife we’re used to seeing, plus gorillas and the shoebill we missed in Zambia.
We got in touch with Paul, who’s been mentioned several times on the forum back in September, booked our flight tickets, secured the gorilla permits, and by early October, the most important things were done.
We still had plenty of time to hold our "prep meetings" for the final itinerary.
Three days before departure, I sprained my ankle (my weak spot, as you’ll recall from our Colombia trip).
I wasn’t in great spirits, but after a year of waiting, nothing was going to stop me.
We’d see how it goes!
Off we went for our new adventures
After as many weeks as I have fingers on my right hand, we're hitting the road again, fully recovered from our pharaonic adventure. Back in France to drop off our daughters (sorry, girls!), this time it's just the two of us, ready to be welcomed by a new destination. They say it offers one of the richest cultural heritages in the world for those willing to put in the effort. It's the land of the ancient Silk Road, where we'll follow a journey steeped in history and discoveries straight out of *One Thousand and One Nights*. A former Soviet bloc region independent only since 1991, we'll be walking in the footsteps of Genghis Khan, Tamerlane, Alexander the Great, Marco Polo...
Another fun fact about this country: it's strictly forbidden to import porn on your phone. True story. The same goes for painkillers! Unless it's about sodomy—though the two don’t seem connected, that’s just how it is. Don’t ask me why! Anyway, I’m getting off track. Here’s the big question: Where do you think we’ve just landed?... To give you a hint, the locals are known for being incredibly welcoming. No sooner said than done—our first taxi driver, proud to transport French travelers, refused to let us pay for the ride. Great vibes for these two weeks ahead. So, any guesses?
Uzbekistan!!!
So, a new year has begun. It’s time to reconnect with the VF buddies and wish you all my best for 2026—a year I hope is obviously full of travel, since, as I just made up:
"If travel’s good, everything’s good" 😄.
To celebrate, I’m inviting you into my new "travel journal," the one from our latest trip in November 2025, a little two-week adventure.
This time, we headed to The Gambia, a tiny country tucked right in the middle of Senegal, before making our way to Casamance.
The Gambia is English-speaking, Senegal is French-speaking, but the locals? They couldn’t care less—because in this part of the world, they mostly speak Wolof, Fula, Jola, or Mandinka.
Hence the title: Senegambia 😉.
As usual, I’m sharing the live updates I sent to friends and family—super casual, of course.
I know this isn’t the kind of destination that draws crowds, but if you love adventure, laughter, and emotion, it might just be your thing 😊.
I hope this travel journal might interest some people, but since we were completely self-sufficient (tent, sleeping bag, pot, cooking over a wood fire…) almost every day, I don’t have many hotel addresses or great restaurant tips to share! Sorry!
We used the Maio map at 1:50,000 scale. It’s part of the Boa Vista/Sal/Maio map. Bought on Amazon, but currently unavailable as of the latest news.
The people of Maio are extremely welcoming and warm, and we were always more than well received in the villages where we pitched our tent!
We’re usually big hikers, but since Maio is a beach island (gorgeous ones, at that!), we alternated a few hours of walking in the morning with some relaxation in the afternoon: beach, reading, fishing, resting…
1 euro = 110 escudos
Day 1 (Friday) Transfers by plane: Fogo-Praia-Maio
We opted for the plane to save some time on transfers, as the boat connections between Fogo and Praia take a while, and those between Praia and Maio are almost nonexistent.
You should budget around 40-50 euros per flight per person.
There are 2 flights per week between Praia and Maio—on Tuesdays and Fridays when we were there (January 2016), but currently on Mondays and Fridays.
A bit of a delay leaving Praia, but we arrived on Maio without any problems around 4 PM.
We took an *aluguer* (shared transport, 200 escudos per person) to the center of Vila do Maio, but it’s totally doable on foot with a backpack.
Since it was already a bit late, for this first night, we dropped our bags at Big Game Maio. A standard European-style hotel run by a very nice Italian family. It’s a bit pricey for us (5500 escudos for 2 people with breakfast), but after our 2 weeks in a tent on Fogo, we were happy to find a little comfort. And the breakfast is ultra-generous, with fresh products (cured ham, fruit, cheese, bread) and top quality. The hotel restaurant offers dishes that are a clever mix of Italian and Cape Verdean cuisine. Excellent!
Little tip: We didn’t try it, but Big Game Maio offers big-game fishing trips, diving, and quad rentals.
The hotel is 2 minutes from Vila’s beautiful beach, and we went for a dip at sunset and took a stroll around town. They’re redeveloping the waterfront with pretty sidewalks and light stone walls.
Vila beach
Sunset behind Santiago
Day 2 (Saturday): rest day + fishing
After 2 weeks of hiking and since Vila is such a peaceful place where it’s nice to take your time, we decided to spend an extra day there. We took the path heading south along the coast to reach Ponta Preta beach in 20 minutes. The path isn’t very pretty because there’s quite a bit of construction going on, which prevents you from really walking along the shore. Lots of real estate agencies, especially Italian ones, have taken over the land. But Ponta Preta beach is a stunning black-sand beach where we had the whole place to ourselves. We decided to go fishing from the rocks.
At 1 PM, the sun was blazing, so we headed back to Vila and dried the fish for the following days.
At 6 PM, we went fishing again, but this time at night from the rocks at the end of Vila beach.
8:30 PM: back to shower and eat at the restaurant.
The rocks and sea at Ponta Preta
Day 3 (Sunday): from Vila do Maio to Calheta de Baixo, via Monte Batalha (path 101) Hiking time: 5h
Since there aren’t many “summits” on Maio, we decided to head to Calheta de Baixo but via Monte Batalha. We left at 8:20 AM and somehow made it to Monte Batalha by 11 AM (2h40 of hiking). But the path is really hard to find in the middle of the dry grass and acacia trees. We kind of cut through randomly, aiming for the summit. Even though it’s not very high (around 300 m), the view is amazing—you can see all of Maio at 360°!
Short 30-minute break. The descent through the “forest” of acacias is even worse for finding your way. We oriented ourselves a bit by the sun to find the road connecting Vila to Calheta. We arrived around 1:30 PM at Calheta de Baixo. A very pretty little seaside village with colorful houses. An idyllic beach, a newly renovated square, and super-friendly people. We pitched our tent facing the sea on the terrace of an abandoned house (after asking the locals for permission).
We cooked some of the dried fish we’d caught the day before, along with fresh beans we’d brought from Fogo (and were still carrying!).
At the summit of Monte Batalha
Calheta
Calheta de Baixo
Day 4 (Monday): From Calheta de Baixo to Morrinho on foot. Hiking time: 3h. Then hitching a bus to Cascabulho, and a car to Pedro Vaz.
We left around 9:30 AM heading north (path 201), following the coastline where the beaches just keep coming—each one wilder and more beautiful than the last: Praia de Soca, Calheta Braca, Ponta de Pau Seco, Calhetina. We reached the dunes of Baia de Santana. There’s no real path, so you have to follow the coast, then go around the dunes, and when you spot the 3 coconut trees, head east toward them to find the track leading to Morrinho. Again, we discovered a village with a Wild West vibe, with colorful houses lined up on either side of a paved road. Just enough time to accept a drink offered by a local before jumping onto the passing school bus that took us to Cascabulho. There, we waited for a ride. A political delegation of 10 cars drove right past us without stopping. Luckily, one of the cars had a flat tire and came by 30 minutes later—and that one, thankfully, gave us a lift! They were heading to the inauguration of a water pump in Pedro Vaz. So that’s where we stopped too. After getting permission from the school principal, we pitched our tent in front of the village school… and became the attraction for all the kids who kept us company until nightfall! A woman gave us 2 jugs of water, but with all that company, it was tough to take a peaceful shower!!
Dinner: pasta with beans.
We were woken up by rain during the night and had to rush to bring all our stuff inside the tent!
The beaches just keep coming...
The dunes
The 3 coconut trees, a landmark to find the track
Day 5 (Tuesday): Rest day and fishing at Boca da Ribeira beach
We packed up at 8 AM because the kids had school. We filled the 2 water jugs that the woman lent us and headed down to camp at Boca da Ribeira beach, which is a bit further east of Pedro Vaz. It took less than an hour to get there. This time, we really were alone in the world! We pitched the tent and spent the day fishing, reading, playing, and swimming regularly because the sun was beating down hard!!! We caught a nice fish that we grilled over the fire in the evening. With the crabs and shellfish we gathered, we made a seafood rice! Yum! What a feast!
That night, once the tent was zipped up, we felt something like rain on the tent fabric. I decided to go out and gather our things, and then—shock!!! It wasn’t raindrops we were feeling and hearing, but bugs attracted by the light!! Not just a few bugs—a huge swarm of them!!! Thousands of bugs covering the whole tent, the ropes, slipping into the seams and hems! Everywhere! The blue tent had turned green!!! After that, it was a real struggle to get back inside without letting any in! A real challenge, and there were always 3 or 4 that managed to sneak in anyway. Total war!!!
Boca da Ribeira beach
Day 6 (Wednesday): From Boca da Ribeira to Ribeira Dom João. Hiking time: 3h30
We woke up leisurely and waited for the sun to dry our things, damp from the dew. A man passed by, and we gave him the water jugs we’d borrowed, which saved us a trip back to Pedro Vaz to return them to the woman.
We left around 10 AM. We followed the sea to Alcatraz, then headed toward Pilão Cão. The path runs alongside the small hills on our right, and we passed above Lagoa Cimidor. The terrain is arid, and the path is hard to find among the many goat tracks.
After 3h30 of hiking, we reached Ribeira Dom João with 2 young people we’d met along the way.
Since it was a public holiday in Cape Verde, the kids didn’t have school, and with the principal’s permission, we pitched our tent in the kindergarten. She even kindly opened the school toilets for us. The neighbor gave us the water we needed to wash up and cook. We cooked beef steaks on charcoal. A nice change from fish!! Charcoal is a widespread artisanal product on the island. People almost never cook directly over wood but always with these big chunks of charcoal.
The hills on our right
Ribeira Dom João
Day 7 (Thursday): From Ribeira Dom João to Vila do Maio. Hiking time: 3h30
We woke up at 6:30 AM to clear out of the school by 8 AM. The neighbor made us coffee to save time. It took us 2 hours to reach Barreiro, another Wild West-style town! Since we didn’t want to walk on the road, we took the old track and reached Vila do Maio in 1h30.
Last night before taking the plane back to Praia the next day.
Barreiro
The old track
The church in Vila do Maio
That’s where this trip ends!
Maio is truly a magical island! A remote, isolated place with incredible, wild beaches and villages with a Wild West feel—colorful houses on either side of well-paved, well-maintained, and decorated streets. And the locals are so warm and welcoming.
Even for hikers like us, it was a great discovery, and we were able to alternate hiking and relaxation with great pleasure! Too bad the area around Vila do Maio is being overrun by real estate construction—ongoing, unfinished, abandoned…
Hi everyone, we're back from a DIY USA road trip we organized from July 31, 2026, to August 26, 2026.
The destination: The Southwest USA, including Texas, Arizona, and New Mexico. Roughly 7,000 kilometers covered.
The car: A Chevrolet Equinox for two, rented through BSP Auto and Avis. Inside, we had 2 suitcases, a travel bag, two carry-on bags, a Walmart cooler, photo gear, and water bottles (a 40-pack).
The route: Dallas DFW, Fort Worth, Houston, Austin, San Antonio, Alpine, El Paso, Tucson, Sedona, Albuquerque, Amarillo, and back to Dallas to finish with a departure from DFW.
The travelers: Two seniors well advanced in years (73 and 75) but still active (nothing too physically demanding—to stay alive and fund our trips), fully independent physically, though a bit less so mentally. Big USA fans, a country where anything is possible. More walkers than hikers, preferring 3-star hotels over roadside motels, Italian restaurants over US food, frequent stops for photos, museums over nothing, naps over forced marches. Not too whiny, just enough to stay French in the land of the "great Satan," as they say.
Not great with languages—street English (but handy), and my Spanish is non-existent except for: "Hola! Una cerveza por favor!" That’s about it. My wife understands everything but refuses to speak.
The cost of the road trip: Around 12,000 €, including AF flights, the car, gas, gifts, visits, and everything else. Well managed, since we’d budgeted 13,500 € initially.
The positive side: A delight, with those endless open roads. Museums to discover. The realization of the Hispanic presence and its important history in this part of America. Lovely locals. Tourists who were more or less friendly. A terrible Texan accent that was hard to understand. Gas stations that were like real stores, with prepared food, alcohol sold in Arizona and New Mexico, and employees who were always up for a laugh!
The negative side: The heat throughout the trip... 43°C in Dallas at the end. Impossible to walk the streets. Lots of homeless people in downtown Dallas. Hotel breakfasts that were always the same. You get used to it.
So, it was positive overall, but the concept is starting to wear us out. We might rethink the DIY road trip model for next time. If the man upstairs grants us more time.
Next up, we’ll wait for the first batch of sorted photos to go through the wringer.
Traveling with just one spare pair of underwear, considering a hot shower a miracle, never staying in the same place too long by sleeping wherever night catches us, taking whatever local, improbable, and rickety transport we can find—this is the DNA of us wanderers. Except this time, the script for our movie is going to be a whole different genre. On paper, the destination doesn’t exactly scream epic adventure: Réunion! And what’s more... we won’t be two, or four, or even ten. We’ll be a solid thirty. All from the same family. Yes, thirty. At this point, it’s not just a trip—it’s a summer camp on the move! Why inflict this on such a peaceful island? Because my brother decided to get married there with his lovely bride. A great idea, you might say... especially when it involves relocating the equivalent of a small Ardennes village 10,000 kilometers from home for three weeks! So who’s stepping up to be the guide and wave the little flag?
So, for an exceptional trip, exceptional stories! Don’t worry, the debates at the supermarket over whether to choose plain chips or roast chicken chips, the beach picnics washed down with ti’ punch, and other rougail sausages to digest by the pool will only make it into the family archives. Here, I’ll stick to the tales of our beautiful escapes, the ones where we explore the wild corners of this little volcanic rock planted in the middle of the Indian Ocean. So where exactly are we headed?
For the first week—the subject of this first installment—we’re taking it easy. We’ll start by rediscovering the coastline, from the Souffleur in Saint-Leu to the Hermitage lagoon, before a little trip to the Cirque de Cilaos and its legendary road with 400 turns, just to get our legs warmed up.
"How about a Christmas market this year, huh? A little romantic weekend getaway...
- Yes! That’d be cool! Strasbourg? Colmar?
- Feels a bit déjà vu, doesn’t it? Plus, slim chance of snow there... And I’d love something a bit more exotic with a touch of originality..."
"Okay, Google, give me the list of the five most beautiful Christmas markets in Europe.
- In fifth place, the Christmas market in Vilnius, the capital of Lithuania.
- Save your breath! Lithuania, here we come!"
We wanted cold, and cold is exactly what we got the moment we set foot in this new, unknown land. As for landscapes, forests and lakes stretch as far as the eye can see across this vast plain, its vegetation scorched by the frost of a winter that’s clearly already well underway here.
Lakes, in fact, set the scene for our first visit to Trakai Castle, whose brick-red towers and walls rise proudly against the azure sky of our first day. Lakes, because this castle was built on an island and is only accessible on foot via a series of walkways spanning half-frozen lake offshoots. I couldn’t have picked a better spot to build my castle! Translation: We’re totally sold! Proof is we spend two hours hiking around the area, alternating between forests, reeds, and cozy houses tastefully decorated for Christmas.
With my girlfriend Christelle, we’ve chosen South Africa for our first trip to Southern Africa, focusing on safaris—after a long debate with a Cape Town/Kruger combo.
But that would’ve meant cutting out St Lucia, which would’ve been harder to fit into another trip.
And St Lucia—thanks to Michel and all those travel journals—we really wanted to go there.
So our 11-night itinerary ended up like this, mostly shaped by school holidays:
- 3 nights in St Lucia
- 1 night in Hluhluwe
- 1 night at Mkhaya Game Reserve (Eswatini)
- 1 night at Hlane Royal National Park (Eswatini)
- 3 nights in Kruger (Berg en Dal / Satara / Tamboti)
- 1 night at Shindzela Tented Camp in the Timbavati private reserve
- 1 final night in Kruger at Lower Sabie
All of this in the off-season and rainy season, just a month after catastrophic floods that killed over 150 people and seriously damaged Kruger’s infrastructure.
I’ll jump straight to St Lucia and skip the loooong journey to get there (with a layover in Frankfurt, landing in Johannesburg, a domestic flight to Durban, and the rest by rental SUV—First Car Rental, perfect, no complaints).
To motivate readers—especially some familiar faces here—I’ll drop in a first photo.
When we started looking for a summer destination a few months ago, our first criterion was to avoid extreme heat and heatwaves. We had already been to Norway two years ago and are considering going back in the future for other occasions. So, we had some fun asking ChatGPT which destinations enjoyed a mild climate during the summer without going too far. Among the list provided by the AI were the Canary Islands... The idea of a place we wouldn’t have thought of first, both not too far away and exotic enough, appealed to us: “Hmm, why not?”
This destination had never really attracted me, though Magali was a bit more interested. Five years earlier, COVID had caused a short break in my professional activity, and I had planned a trip because the flight price was attractive, and I was looking for a destination different from what usually appeals to me, more than out of deep interest. From a distance and with a social judgment I acknowledge (it’s not great, but it’s not completely wrong), I had the image of a destination for party-goers enjoying the sun without the slightest interest in local culture, with concrete coastlines and denatured landscapes—everything I detest the most. Still, I had done some quick research on the different islands and spotted Lanzarote for its beautiful volcanic landscapes, hiking trails, beaches, and the impression of a good balance between activity and fewer crowds than Tenerife or Gran Canaria. Then I dropped the idea of going, without ever reconsidering traveling to the Canaries...
Until now! Because we started researching the different islands of the archipelago to see which ones might appeal to us the most. It was La Gomera, the third smallest island of the archipelago, more praised for its hiking trails and preserved nature than for its beaches, away from mass tourism (fifty times fewer tourists than Tenerife) but still a bit more developed than its wild neighbor El Hierro, that caught our attention. Contrary to what might be suggested later, I’m not at all addicted to AI, but I use it from time to time to synthesize quick research or simply for experimentation. Since ChatGPT had started anticipating my tastes lately as if it had become my buddy (often successfully, sometimes off the mark), I asked which Canary Island would suit me best for a trip with my family. The tool answered first with... La Gomera. So, I tested it and teased it a bit to see if this suggestion was well-founded, as the method sometimes makes it contradict itself. But no luck: “You’d appreciate the wild nature of El Hierro, but with family, you’ll find little activity for the kids. You won’t like the touristy vibe of the big islands like Tenerife, Gran Canaria, Lanzarote, and Fuerteventura. You could consider La Palma, but it’s really La Gomera that will suit you best, based on your interests and the criteria given.” So, we dug deeper into our research and were convinced without a shadow of a doubt that this island was the one waiting for us.
Without knowing it, we had Canarians in our circle who revealed their origins when they heard about our travel plans. One from Tenerife insisted we’d be better off choosing Tenerife (obviously...) because it also has preserved spots and that La Gomera, “you can explore it in two or three days, you’ll get bored quickly...” The other, a colleague from Gran Canaria who had never visited La Gomera, still recommended it without hesitation because it turned out her parents had just gone there on vacation: they loved it and had encountered few tourists. She also tended to think this destination was usually the subject of short stays, but according to what her parents told her, taking your time there was also a great idea. However, in our research, the idea that La Gomera is an island you can explore in three or four days max kept coming up. So, we considered combining its visit with La Palma or El Hierro, the other two that caught our eye. But hopping between islands by ferry represents a significant budget for non-Canarians, even more so for a family of four. Then, scrutinizing Google Maps, it seemed obvious that two weeks were too short to discover two islands as they deserve, and that there seemed to be plenty to see in La Gomera, given its very unique culture. After all, we read that some people spend several months a year there, others never even leave... Finally, these landscapes and this atmosphere, which seemed to us a mix of Europe, North Africa, and Latin America, tempted us. So, it would be two weeks in La Gomera, deal!
La Gomera is therefore the second... well, the third smallest island of the Canaries since La Graciosa was recently recognized as a fully inhabited island. It has the shape of a rough circle about 20 to 25 kilometers in diameter and has just over 20,000 inhabitants, half of them in its capital, San Sebastián de la Gomera, the only real town. Like its Canarian sisters, La Gomera is a volcanic formation that rose about 10 million years ago. The island is very mountainous and rugged, covered with red and black rocky landscapes. Geological activity has shaped, between the sprawling massifs that end in steep cliffs in the ocean, six coastal valleys with tropical vegetation that have favored human settlement. They divide the island like slices of a cake; from the north clockwise: the agricultural Vallehermoso, the rustic Agulo, the green, humid, and fertile Hermigua, the sunny capital San Sebastián de la Gomera, the southern and isolated Alajeró-Santiago, and the seaside Valle Gran Rey. They constitute the six municipalities (more like cantons to our French understanding) of the territory.
The large solidified magma massifs that shape the heart of the island have created a large depression more protected from the sun at its center, allowing the growth of a vast laurel forest, today grouped within the Garajonay National Park, La Gomera’s green lung, which has earned it the status of a World Biosphere Reserve. Its completely European appearance contrasts sharply with the rocky and tropical landscapes of the rest of the island. Thus, the climate varies greatly from one point to another on the island: in summer, you can quickly go from a dry and sunny valley at 35°C to a humid forest area at altitude at 18°C.
La Gomera was populated late. As with the rest of the Canaries, human presence is thought to have begun about 2,000 years ago. Groups of animist Berbers, probably fleeing persecution, gradually populated the archipelago, especially the western islands and La Gomera, becoming its small aboriginal population: the Guanches (or later Gomeros). The animist and pastoral civilization of the Guanches thrived until the Spanish takeover in the 15th century, which, after a short period of harmony and mixing with the indigenous people, suddenly ended in bloodshed... La Gomera later became the “Columbus Island” after Christopher Columbus’s stopover, increasing the blending of populations. In the 20th century, many Gomeros emigrated to Cuba and other Latin American countries in search of a better life, bringing back a mix of cultures and traits quite palpable in today’s Gomeran culture. It is, however, in La Gomera that the vestiges of Guanche culture seem to have left the most traces, in the language, gastronomy, social practices... Moreover, most Gomeros, especially in remote villages, have a particular identifiable type and proudly claim their ancestral roots, even making La Gomera a bit exotic in the eyes of other Canarians.
Perhaps that’s why it has never really wanted to develop its tourist infrastructure too much. If we set aside the tourists who visit for the day by bus or boat from Tenerife on a marked itinerary (and whom we ultimately rarely encounter), La Gomera has remained a hidden gem, a destination focused on nature discovery that attracts hikers, nature-loving divers, and scientists for its fauna and flora, and to a lesser extent, beachgoers who don’t seek overly developed coastlines. Tourist activity is therefore limited. Roughly speaking, you’ll find a majority of Spaniards, including a substantial number of residents from other Canary Islands, many Germans who have a particular fondness for La Gomera and spend long stays there or own second homes, to the point that the German cultural footprint is clearly noticeable in some places (it’s said to be Angela Merkel’s favorite holiday spot), and still quite a few French. The presence of other nationalities seemed negligible to us. Most travelers come mainly for hiking, but it’s also a prime spot for whale watching. Additionally, the seaside resorts of La Gomera—San Sebastián, Santiago, and especially Valle Gran Rey—are well-known destinations for hippies, especially German ones, ranging from chic boho hippies to old-school hippies who’ve been there for decades, quite similar to those you’d meet in India in Goa, Rishikesh, or Paharganj. Thus, practices like naturism, vegetarianism, and local organic production are quite well established in some areas.
Some practical info:
- The round-trip flight from Paris to Tenerife cost us 365 € per person (outbound with Transavia, return with EasyJet), including checked luggage and three seats reserved side by side.
- We chose two bases to explore the island: one week in Valle Gran Rey, reputed to be the most pleasant of the three seaside resorts, and one week in Hermigua, more mountainous and close to the natural park. We booked two houses with balconies and views: the first at 120 € per night, the second at 99 €.
- The round-trip ferry between Tenerife and La Gomera cost us 270 € with the company Baleària Canarias, including discounts for children aged 4 and 12, but I don’t have the exact details. It was a bit cheaper than with the other company, Fred Olsen.
- Finally, we rented a car through the agency Cicar for 360 € for 16 days, which comes to 22.50 € per day.
- Apart from that, we didn’t plan anything and decided the day before or even the morning of what we wanted to do. We didn’t invest in any paper guide on the Canaries, as information on La Gomera was scarce, but we used the very comprehensive site La Gomera Travel, a travel guide published by the Canary Islands Tourism Council, a real goldmine of almost exhaustive information on the island.
Alright, off we go for 16 days of adventure discovering La Gomera!
If I close my eyes and think of the Sultanate of Oman, I first smell a light scent of incense, feel the warmth of a sunbeam on my skin, before sand slips through my fingers. I taste the sweetness of a date, a real candy, then the flavor of coffee with a hint of cardamom and rosewater... I hear the desert wind whistling in my ears, the distant call of a muezzin, then the murmur of water. I open my eyes to see smiles, welcoming gestures, a turquoise sea, rocks ranging from ochre to purple, deep wadis where torrents burst forth, orange dunes, white sandy beaches where tiny crabs scurry at full speed. I see incredible oases emerging between arid mountains. I see abandoned villages that I’d dream were full of life, imposing fortresses overlooking valleys, and lively souks where offers are delicate and negotiation is a mutual courtesy.
All that, and so much more.
This is what I tried to capture in my illustrated travel journal, which I’ll fill in here and there with photos.
I drew this journal “cold,” after my return (actually, I made it this summer, while our trip was last winter). It’s a pretty special format—I bought it in Japan without really knowing what I’d do with it. Well, it found its purpose! Below is a photo of this accordion-style journal: here, it’s only partially open, because when fully unfolded, it’s 5 meters long!
For drawing enthusiasts: The accordion format is both a constraint (each sheet is 9 cm x 27 cm) and a freedom (you can create a fresco). The paper is also a bit special: it doesn’t allow for fine lines, but it takes ink well (liner pen). However, everything has to be done almost in one go (with a very light pencil sketch) because it erases poorly. It absorbs too much water for coloring with markers or watercolors (unless you avoid soaking it), but it works well with oil pastels and their use with a brush and solvent. Since it’s yellowish, it allowed me to create contrasts even with white pastel.
On the right, the "welcome marker"—those dates offered everywhere as a sign of hospitality. On the left, a tribute to those stunning doors worn by time, admired all over the old quarters, including the abandoned ones.
Oman is one of the world’s largest producers of frankincense resin. Incense burners are everywhere, from the simplest clay ones to the most precious handcrafted silver ones...
Hospitality will often lead you to accept a small coffee, an "Omani coffee," very light, subtly flavored with cardamom, maybe a touch of saffron, and occasionally rosewater.
Here, I’ve depicted a man in the common everyday attire of Omanis: the dishdasha, mostly white (during the week and daytime; colors are more common in the evening or on Fridays and Saturdays). While you’ll see some men dressed in Western clothes, they’re very few. The white dishdasha is truly the shared attire of all men. The dishdasha, which has no hood, is distinguished by a small pom-pom attached to the collar, the furakha, which is soaked in perfume. And believe me, Omanis go overboard with it! "It smells like the pom-pom" is an expression that’s now part of our shared language, my husband and I.
Another must of men’s attire is the kuma, a small round head covering, usually white with brightly colored patterns. The keffiyeh is also worn (but without the cord called an agal in Arab countries), and it’s mostly worn by those with roots in the desert, from what I understood.
And what about the women, you might ask? Some are veiled, some in full black (but not a burka—more like a chador + abaya), due to the influence of Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates, whereas the traditional outfit used to be a layering of very colorful dresses. Most of the women we saw wore neutral clothing, a plain veil over their hair, but with their faces uncovered. We also saw many saris and colorful veils—don’t forget that 40% of the population consists of Indian, Nepalese, and Bangladeshi immigrants, who work a lot in tourism, hospitality, restaurants, services, and construction.
Just to clarify, as a tourist, there’s no pressure to wear a veil, and never any disapproving looks. Of course, you’ll save the mini shorts, plunging necklines, bare shoulders, and midriffs for the hotel terrace—but I’d say that’s the same for men and women, and with the sun being strong, it’s better for your skin too.
Here’s the introduction! In the next post, I’ll tell you about my itinerary, and we can dive in!
My buddy Christian and I (Patrick) are off for 28 days in Argentina in March.
We’ve already shared several trips as a duo (Bolivia Peru, Namibia, Laos, Costa Rica).
Since we’re starting from the idea that at our age (65) we won’t be coming back here—there are just too many other corners of the world to discover—we did the "grand tour" of Argentina, with 6 domestic flights to make the most of our 28 days.
Here are our stops:
1) Departure from Brussels to Buenos Aires via Madrid
2) Arrival and first contact with Buenos Aires
3) Early morning flight to Ushuaia. Boat trip on the Beagle Channel
4) Ushuaia: hikes in Tierra del Fuego National Park
5) Ushuaia: last hike and flight to El Calafate
6) El Calafate to El Chaltén by bus. First hike
7) El Chaltén: hike
8) El Chaltén: hike
9) El Chaltén: hike and bus back to El Calafate
10) El Calafate: Perito Moreno Glacier
11) Flight to Bariloche. Car rental and surrounding areas
12) Seven Lakes Region
13) Nahuel Huapi National Park region
14) Flight to Salta. Car rental
15) To Tilcara
16) To Humahuaca
17) To Purmamarca
18) To Jujuy via the salt flats
19) To Cafayate
20) Around Cafayate
21) To Cachi
22) Back to Salta
23) Flight to Iguazu
24) Waterfalls on the Argentine side
25) Waterfalls on the Brazilian side and flight to Buenos Aires
26) Buenos Aires
27) Return flight
28) Morning arrival
Happy reading!..
We landed in Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, and headed straight to Kasane in Botswana to pick up our car.
Our vehicle is a 4x4 because in Zambia, it's practically impossible to use anything else, especially in the national parks. I’ve already had the pleasure of visiting South Luangwa National Park—it’s one of the reasons for this trip, the main one being to travel in Africa with one of my sons.
First stop: Livingstone on the banks of the Zambezi River. Along the way, we discovered a lovely restaurant at Socrates with a super-friendly owner (we’ll actually stop there again on our way back). We spent our first night in the rooftop tent after a stunning sunset, accompanied by the grunting of hippos in the river.
The next day, we set off early, heading to Kafue NP. In fact, we’ll always leave early—waking up between 5:00 and 5:30 AM and hitting the road an hour later. Kafue is a lesser-known park, mostly forested, and the animals are skittish because they’re not used to human presence. We crossed the park from south to north and came across various antelopes. Near Lake Itezhi-Tezhi, there are plains where wildlife is easier to spot.
After Kafue, we headed to South Luangwa. This journey requires stops in Mumbwa and Petauke. Two pleasant stops where we found lodges (a nice change from the rooftop tent) at affordable prices and met welcoming people.
For me, South Luangwa is Zambia’s most beautiful park—the river is stunning, the landscapes are gorgeous, and there’s a wide variety of wildlife, including, of course, big cats. A tip for those, like us, who aren’t with a guide: if you’re staying near the park for several days, don’t hesitate to do a "game drive" to scout out where the animals are so you can return the next day with your own vehicle. Of course, in the dry season, you’ll want to focus on waterholes to see the animals—and you’ll need a bit of luck too. The elephant population is growing, and we were lucky enough to see around sixty elephants crossing the Luangwa at dawn, spread across several groups. South Luangwa is the westernmost point of our trip, and we’re now heading east to Lower Zambezi.
Lower Zambezi is Zambia’s side of Mana Pools on the Zimbabwe side. We took a boat ride on the Zambezi to see elephants, hippos, crocodiles, and a multitude of birds living along the water and on the river’s islands. The sunset there is also magnificent.
To explore the park, we followed the waterways parallel to the Zambezi, mostly on the western side (see our route). Lower Zambezi is the last park we visit, and the final leg of our trip will be Victoria Falls.
Victoria Falls—or Mosi-Oa-Tunya ("The Smoke That Thunders")—are truly impressive, even during the dry season. We saw the falls from both countries: in Zambia for the overall view and the bridge that serves as the border, and in Zimbabwe to get as close as possible to the most spectacular parts of the falls.
This marks the end of our trip, which, despite a blown tire on the road, went off without any major issues. Zambia is a beautiful country that immerses you in wild, still-preserved nature.
The latest travel journal about Turkmenistan dates back to 2019. Here’s a quick update on this vast desert country, which is now a bit easier to visit than before.
This is my first travel journal. If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask. The country is slowly opening up, but it’s still possible to visit sites where you’ll be completely alone. In five days, I saw two Hongkongers, a few Germans, and a Chilean at the crater, ten Chinese people in a capital bazaar, and that’s it!
It’s possible to visit Turkmenistan from Uzbekistan. The easiest and most economical way is to take a taxi to the border from Bukhara. The trip takes a little over an hour.
Crossing the border takes quite a while because many Turkmen bring back items bought in Uzbekistan to resell in Turkmenistan. For example, diapers, baby products, or beauty products.
It took me over 2.5 hours to cross the border. To visit Turkmenistan, it’s mandatory to have a guide and go through a travel agency. British agencies often offer three-, five-, or seven-day trips for over 1,500 or 2,000 €.
But if your budget is more limited, you can contact a few Turkmen agencies directly by email, and they’ll make you an offer between 700 and 1,300 € for three to seven days. I took a five-day trip from Turkmenabat in the northeast of the country to Dashoguz in the north. The goal was to visit the main UNESCO-listed sites, including Merv, and archaeological sites like Nisa or Gonur Tepe.
Your guide will also be your driver. They’ll pick you up at the border. The formalities are very long because customs officers have to stamp multiple documents, and obtaining the visa you previously requested from your travel agency requires several checks. But the process goes relatively smoothly, even if each step takes a while.
Once on the other side, the first surprise is the brand-new highway all the way to Turkmenabat. A very long line of trucks stretches for several kilometers on the Turkmen side to cross the border into Uzbekistan. According to my guide, Turkmen trucks transport gas and cotton (though not this season, since the harvest is in September), but they mainly fill up their tanks because fuel is much cheaper in Turkmenistan. A full tank for a car costs about 3 €, which is unbeatable.
From the Farap border post, the goal is to reach the city of Mary, which is home to the UNESCO-listed site of Merv in its suburbs, about thirty kilometers away. This city is known as a foundation by Alexander the Great in the 4th century BC under the name Alexandria of Margiana. Several fortresses are visible.
After more than three hours on the road, we have lunch at a Turkish restaurant called Aladdin. Several quotes from the president are visible along the highway, but the road is in good condition, and we move along easily. This will be by far the best road in the country—things will get much worse later.
Roundabouts are particularly interesting because they feature emblems of Turkmen culture, like the dog, a carpet, the Ahal Teke horse, or Muslim symbols, even though the presence of Islamic artifacts is quite limited.
This time, I landed in Monastir on a direct flight from Nice, again with Tunisair. We left about ten minutes late, and the flight lasted around 1 hour 30 minutes. A meal was served on board (cucumber salad with Edam-like cheese, carrots, and two small portions of dishes I couldn’t identify—semolina with peppers, olives, and parsley, two small rolls, a square of processed cheese, and a chocolate cake). It’s worth noting because it’s not common on flights this short.
In February, France and Tunisia were in the same time zone, but now Tunisia is one hour behind. This time difference and the flight duration work perfectly for a short 15-day trip since it takes me a few days to adjust to jet lag.
Luckily, I’d asked my hotel about the taxi fare from the airport because the drivers (there were several around me) didn’t hesitate to quote outrageous prices. The actual fare is 20 dinars, but one asked for 120 dinars. I refused, and another offered 60 dinars. I replied, "That’s too expensive—I’ll take the metro!" (Having tried the Tunis metro, I had no desire to repeat the experience in Monastir with a suitcase!). I started walking toward the metro, and one of the drivers caught up with me, saying, "20 dinars is fine!" I’ll skip the details, but the negotiation took a little while.
When I arrived at the hotel, I told the receptionist someone had asked for 120 dinars. He put his hands to his head and said, "They’re awful!" He remembered our phone call two days earlier when I’d booked (he’s the one who told me I could take the metro).
The Mezri Hotel isn’t expensive. I got a sea-view room for 75 dinars (22 €). (I’d booked a balcony room for 90 dinars but wouldn’t have had time to enjoy it.) It’s well-located but noisy because there’s no double glazing.
The receptionist is a very kind older gentleman. He called a friend whose wife is from Tozeur to find out if I should take a bus or a *louage* tomorrow and what time.
I arrived at the hotel around 7:00 PM and had time to stroll along the corniche to the ribat. Despite some run-down buildings, the seaside seemed livelier and cheerier than Sousse’s.
Monastir is the hometown of former president Bourguiba. I passed his mausoleum by taxi. There are Tunisian flags along the avenue by the sea because every year on April 6—the anniversary of Habib Bourguiba’s death—the president of the Republic visits the Bourguiba Mausoleum in Monastir to pay respects.
The taxi driver mentioned other Tunisian presidents. He complained about rising prices and insecurity, blaming President Kaïs Saïed (I’d already heard that security was better under Ben Ali).
At the end of my stay, I’ll take time to explore Monastir, but tomorrow morning, I’m off to Tozeur—a long bus ride awaits me.
Here we go!!!
I left home at 4 AM on October 31st and headed to Barcelona. Driving through Barcelona on the ring road stresses me out a bit, but at 6 AM the traffic is smooth, and I arrive at the airport without any issues. I call the valet, who quickly comes to pick up my car. He takes photos of it from all angles before letting me go.
Baggage check-in hasn’t started yet, and there are already several of us waiting.
Once free, everything happens very quickly. The flight to Abu Dhabi is on time and goes smoothly. I’ve never had any problems with this airline, which I’ve been using for several years.
The flight to Bangkok arrives at 7 AM as scheduled. This is my first time in Thailand and Bangkok. I’m used to traveling in India, and I notice that everything here is well organized—the customs process is quick, and the luggage is already on the carousel.
I booked a taxi on Booking. All I have to do is find the right exit and door based on the agency’s instructions. A large sign with the names of people who booked is posted on a wall. A hostess greets me and calls the taxi, which arrives 5 minutes later. I booked one night at the Lost Inn BKK hotel in the Phra Nakhon district, and we arrive at 9 AM. The welcome isn’t warm, and I have to wait until noon, sitting on a chair, before I can check into my room. I’m exhausted, and sleeping sitting up isn’t ideal. Noon finally arrives—the room is small but clean, which is fine for one night. I quickly take a shower to wake up because I plan to spend the afternoon visiting the Grand Palace. First, I need to exchange some money, and the banks are all close together on the same street, which is very convenient. When I enter one, a hostess gives me a ticket and invites me to sit down. There are about twenty counters, and I wait quietly until my number is called. The exchange is quick, so I can head out to find the Royal Palace. It’s actually very easy, and the walk is pleasant.
Entry to the Royal Palace (500 baht).
It’s magnificent and grand, and there are quite a few of us visiting. The sky is gray, it’s very humid, and a shower interrupts the visit. It’s a vast complex of temples and palaces. The buildings are colorful and sparkling, with a great sense of serenity (without the tourists, of course). I quietly enjoy the place and try to take photos without tourists, which isn’t easy.
Very close to the Grand Palace is Wat Pho, one of the oldest Buddhist temples in the capital.
It’s very famous for its 46-meter-long reclining Buddha statue.
Walking around the temple, you can see different representations of Buddha, all covered in gold leaf.
Inside the temple, on one side, monks recite their prayers, while the other side is reserved for tourists who come to meditate in silence.
Before returning to the hotel, I have dinner at an Indian restaurant. I go to bed early because tomorrow’s wake-up call will be very early again.
Saturday, November 2nd
Wake-up at 4 AM, departure from the hotel at 4:30 AM. The taxi I booked via Booking is waiting for me and takes me to the airport. The trip is fairly quick—he takes small roads, and at this hour, there’s no traffic.
The flight to Phnom Penh is on time. Before boarding, I realize I left my fleece jacket on the carousel, but it’s too late to go back for it.
The flight goes well, and customs is quick.
At the exit, I take a tuk-tuk to Julieka’s GH near the museum. The welcome is friendly. I won’t be able to check into my room until noon, so I take the opportunity to exchange some euros on the market street. The street is lined with restaurants, and I’ll have my first meal there.
The museum is right across the street, so I don’t waste any time visiting it.
The representations of Hindu deities are very different from those in India, and I don’t recognize them. Many beautiful Buddhas are on display.
The museum is very pleasant, and there aren’t too many people, which is a plus.
At the exit, I return to the GH, settle into my room—which is decent and clean.
The Royal Palace is 1 km away. I walk along a garden, and at the end of the street is the Tonlé Sap, but I turn right. I arrive at a large esplanade and see the buildings with tiered roofs and glazed tiles. The entrance to the palace is a little further away.
At the entrance, I notice there isn’t the same crowd as at the one in BKK.
Khmer architecture is magnificent. The complex consists of gardens, palaces, pagodas with golden roofs, and slender spires.
The Silver Pagoda houses the small Emerald Buddha, which is actually made of jade. The silver flooring is covered with carpets. Photos are not allowed.
The walls surrounding the pagoda are covered with frescoes depicting scenes from the Ramayana.
My partner and I traveled from Sunday, July 5, 2026, to Wednesday, July 22, 2026.
We spent a long time debating whether to rent a car or use public transportation. In the end, after reading so many posts about travelers getting scammed by police or rental companies—even those recommended by blogs and reviews—we decided to stick with public transport. It worked out really well. Sure, we had a little less freedom to go where we wanted, but it was way less stressful for us.
Sunday, July 5:
Arrived at Cancun Airport. Withdrew cash from the ATM in the terminal just before exiting. The ADO bus counter (they pronounce it "A-Jee-O") is right behind you when you're facing the ATM. Bus to downtown Cancun cost 145 pesos per person.
Stayed at "Rose 5," booked on Booking. The studio was super clean and perfect for one night. The owner’s instructions for accessing the place were very precise, with photos included. Check-in was self-service with a code. The ADO bus terminal isn’t far, and there are shops and restaurants nearby. We really appreciated that the AC was already on when we arrived. By the way, I’d recommend always booking places with AC—it’s *really* hot in Mexico.
Monday, July 6:
Bought a SIM card with data from a TELCEL store. My partner, who’s on Free Mobile, was able to use her regular plan. Just so you know, I found the network pretty unstable. As soon as we left the cities, neither of us—me with TELCEL or her with Free—had any signal.
Another thing to watch out for: roaming charges. I had to turn my SIM back on for less than 30 seconds to get a bank SMS code, and my phone apparently connected to the internet—resulting in an 8-euro roaming fee.
Left on an ADO bus to Chiquila for 278 pesos per person. During our trip, ADO buses were always on time, comfortable, and clean. The AC is *cranked* though, so bring something to cover up with—it gets cold. Some routes were fully booked even in the low season, so try to reserve 1 or 2 days in advance either via the app (when it works) or at the counter.
When we arrived at the ADO terminal in Chiquila, the ferry company counters were right next to it. Ferries leave every 30 minutes, alternating between companies, so no need to book ahead. Just take whichever one is leaving next (330 pesos per person).
When we got to Holbox (pronounced "Hol-bosh"), we’d booked a place via Booking called "Casa de Nana." It was a huge studio with a fridge, cooking plate, and utensils. The best part? The *location*. It was 100 meters from the beach and 200 meters from a Chedraui supermarket. They provided bath towels and beach towels, and the AC worked perfectly. There’s a key box so you can leave your keys inside when you go out. The only downside was that no one was there to let us in when we arrived, so we had to wait a while. The Wi-Fi was good, which was lucky because during our 4-day stay in Holbox, the phone network *never* worked. According to locals, that’s pretty common in Holbox, along with water outages.
Luckily, I’d had the good idea to download an offline map, which helped us find our way back to the place more easily. You can walk there from the dock.
The restaurant next to our place (La Barracuda) was great if you like seafood—I’d recommend their octopus dishes.
Tuesday, July 7:
We did a kayak tour in Holbox’s mangroves at 6 AM. We were looking for a sunrise kayak tour with a French-speaking guide. That’s exactly what we got with "Kayaking Holbox," where Diego, the owner, speaks English and French. He was joined by Gustavo, another guide.
We’d booked for a group tour, but we were the only ones. Diego still went ahead with it instead of canceling due to lack of participants, so we got a private tour at the group rate—really professional of him. They showed us this amazing ecosystem for over 3 hours. We saw all kinds of birds: pink flamingos, pelicans, egrets, frigatebirds... rays, a horseshoe crab, and a little crocodile that was *so* well hidden. Diego and Gustavo have a real eye for spotting animals—I could’ve passed by the crocodile 100 times and never seen it, it blended in so well. Their explanations about the flora and fauna were super interesting. We also got a little break where we tasted mangoes and bananas that taste *nothing* like the ones in France. A real treat—those little Mexican yellow mangoes! I’d definitely recommend Diego and his agency for a French-language kayak tour (1000 pesos per person).
In the evening, we walked to Punta Coco to see the bioluminescence. No need for a guided tour—if you really don’t want to walk, you can take a taxi. At Punta Coco, you have to pass the beach bar/restaurant and then go left into a kind of inlet that forms a lagoon. You have to wiggle your feet or move your hands in the water to create movement, which makes the light appear. Just don’t expect the kind of photos you’ve seen online—they’re all edited! It’s fun to see, but you won’t be dazzled by the light...
Wednesday, July 8:
Whale shark tour with "My Holbox Tours." Why recommend this agency over others for swimming with whale sharks? Simply because Valérie surrounds herself with top professionals to make your experience unforgettable. We were with Captain Fernando, who does everything to position the boat perfectly and make your swim easier. In the water, we were with Humberto, who also goes above and beyond to make sure you have an incredible time. He doesn’t just "supervise" like some guides from other companies who leave you on your own. No, Humberto reads the whale shark’s trajectory and guides you—all you have to do is follow him. He really puts in the effort, even holding your hand to guide you through this quick but intense encounter. Humberto also films the moment and will offer to show you the videos and sell them to you. His footage is really high quality.
Fernando and Humberto also prepared food for us. Special mention for their guacamole! Valérie is there to make sure everything goes smoothly on the boat and to answer your questions in French, English, or Spanish about these animals. If you choose My Holbox Tours, you can be sure you’ll get a top-notch experience.
About the tour itself: before you go, you should know that the sharks can be *really* far away. The day we went, it took 3.5 hours by boat to reach them. The boats are small, and let me tell you—on the way there, when we weren’t going with the waves, it was *rough*. Out of 9 passengers, 4 got seasick. But once you’re face-to-face with the shark, you forget all about that. Even if swimming with a whale shark isn’t exactly a walk in the park—they swim pretty fast, so you need some endurance to keep up. You’ll usually get 2 turns. Our first swim lasted a little over 4 minutes, and the second about 2 minutes because the shark was moving fast and we were still tired from the first swim. It might seem short, but when you’re swimming, it feels *long*. Either way, it’s an experience you *have* to do—but choose your company wisely. On the way back, there’s a stop at Cabo Catoche. Honestly, the snorkeling is pretty disappointing if you’ve done it elsewhere in the world. But the lunch stop at Cabo Catoche is really nice for relaxing (white sand and hammocks).
Thursday, July 9:
Short morning walk to Punta Mosquito at 6 AM. Really nice.
Ferry to Chiquila (330 pesos per person) + ADO bus to Valladolid (300 pesos per person).
In Valladolid, we booked "Casa Lucia" via Booking. The hotel is gorgeous, with a colonial style, and very close to the ADO bus terminal and downtown. It’s super quiet and clean. There’s a shared kitchen you can use with a fridge, microwave, and water dispenser, plus a big table by the pool and a nice indoor terrace. Breakfast was simple but included. The only small downsides were the tiny room and bathroom, no mirror in the room, and a noisy fan.
Friday, July 10:
Not far from the ADO bus terminal is the colectivo station for Chichen Itza. They offer a round-trip to Chichen Itza with an option to stop at Ik Kil cenote on the way back and then drop you off in Valladolid for 370 pesos per person (Ik Kil entrance included).
For the Chichen Itza visit, we’d booked a tour with a guide often mentioned in groups—his name is Juan Pat. He’s a Maya who lives near the site and speaks excellent French. He reserves spots in advance for you and queues up to be the first on-site. It cost 500 pesos per person + entrance fees. His tour lasts 2 hours and focuses mainly on the main pyramid and the ball court. He’s passionate and fascinating, even if some of his claims, as a Maya, might be a little biased. I think it’s *really* important to have a guide—otherwise, you’ll miss so much. You can contact Juan Pat on WhatsApp at +52 985 121 2381.
Afterward, we went to Ik Kil cenote (showers and life jackets mandatory, lockers available). It’s *very* crowded, but still really beautiful with its lush vegetation.
Saturday, July 11:
Since we didn’t have a car but still wanted to visit other cenotes that seemed hard to reach by public transport, we decided to book a taxi for the day. We agreed on 1200 pesos to take us to 3 different cenotes and wait for us at each one. (To find taxis, just look where they park near the ADO bus station.)
He picked us up at Zaci cenote, which we’d walked to. We got there at opening time and were the first ones there—had the place to ourselves for a while! 150 pesos per person. A pretty cenote in the city center with lush vegetation. It’s a bit like Ik Kil but without the deep cylindrical effect.
Cenote Xcanahaltun: the most beautiful cenote we visited. Entry 250 pesos per person. It’s a closed cenote with a hole that lets light in—a cave-like setting. You can kayak inside. There are little fish at the edge that nibble dead skin off your feet. Since it’s closed, the water is *freezing*!
Cenote Palomitas: entry 250 pesos per person. Another stunning closed cenote, even more enclosed than Xcanahaltun. The hole in the ceiling is smaller, so it was pretty dark when we arrived—kind of an eerie vibe. But when the staff turned on the lights, it looked like a "Gothic cathedral" full of bright stalactites.
Cenote Sac Aua: entry 290 pesos per person. The ticket includes a guided cave tour (tip-based). This cenote is really unique with its central island and way less crowded than Suytun. Just so you know, the water is *really* cold in cenotes. In these three, in July, we had the place to ourselves for a while and never saw more than 2 families at once—so peaceful!
Sunday, July 12:
ADO bus to Bacalar (536 pesos per person).
In Bacalar, we stayed via Airbnb with a host named Luli, who offers several rooms with shared bathroom and kitchen.
The room is nicely decorated in a pleasant setting. It’s ideally located near the lagoon and downtown. The shared kitchen is handy. The mosquito net over the bed is useful because there are *a lot* of mosquitoes in Bacalar. Luli provides a water jug, which is really nice. The only big downside is the lack of water pressure in the shower—we had to rinse off by filling a bucket. Also, there’s no real door separating the room from the bathroom. We never met Luli in person, but she was very responsive via messages. The terrace in the middle of the vegetation is lovely.
From the ADO terminal to the place, we took a taxi for 40 pesos. Since this driver was honest about the price (we’d checked beforehand), we decided to use him every time we needed a taxi in Bacalar. Here’s his WhatsApp: +52 983 184 3585.
Monday, July 13:
We did a boat tour on the lagoon with "Bacalar Francophone Activities." Since we were just the two of us, it cost 3500 pesos. If we’d managed to be 4 people, it would’ve been 1000 pesos per person.
We had a private 4-hour tour on the lagoon with Steeve and his very comfortable boat. He’s from Quebec, so his French is perfect. During those 4 hours, Steeve showed us the lagoon’s iconic spots *and* places other boats don’t go. He told us about the lagoon’s history and gave great tips on where to go and where to eat. As a little bonus, he gave us a video taken with his drone during our swimming break.
Tuesday, July 14:
We went to Los Rapidos by taxi (400 pesos round trip) and entry was 225 pesos per person. It’s *very* touristy but really beautiful. You can eat there (expensive), relax, and go down the "rapids" as many times as you want. It’s worth it if you spend a few hours there. You can’t bring in food or drinks—you leave them at the entrance and pick them up on the way out.
Wednesday, July 15:
On Wednesdays, navigation is banned on Bacalar Lagoon, so we’d planned another excursion.
Visit to Calakmul from Bacalar with ABCtours (WhatsApp +52 983 319 8359).
This agency organized a trip from Bacalar to Calakmul with a French-speaking guide. Communication beforehand via WhatsApp was smooth. Mr. Checo, the driver, and Fernando, the guide (who spoke great French), picked us up on the day. Mr. Checo drove very carefully on the long road and always made sure we were comfortable. Fernando is passionate about flora and fauna—he’s a biologist with a degree in ornithology, so he knows *everything* about animals. The slightest sound or song, and he knows what it is. He’s got an eye for spotting them, from the biggest to the smallest.
During the trip, we stopped at km 27 for a short forest walk, then went to see the two main pyramids on the site. On the way back, we stopped at the bat cave for the magical spectacle of millions of bats flying out at dusk. In the end, we saw or glimpsed (some briefly) spider monkeys, howler monkeys, a toucan, 2 tapirs, turkeys, 2 deer, and lots of birds. If, like us, you’re more into flora and fauna than archaeology, I’d *highly* recommend this agency and tour with Fernando.
It’s not cheap, but the road between Bacalar and the site is *long* (3.5 hours). Price: 3900 pesos per person for 2 (3500 for 3, 3200 for 4).
Thursday, July 16:
ADO bus to Playa del Carmen (614 pesos per person).
In Playa del Carmen, we stayed in an Airbnb. The building is on the town hall square, next to the casino.
The best thing about this place is the *location*—super close to Fifth Avenue (La Quinta). The kitchen is pretty basic, but the fridge works well. There are supermarkets nearby. The rooftop pool is really nice. The two big downsides, though, are the soundproofing (you can *hear* the neighbor’s alarm and all the events on the square) and the *total* lack of water pressure in the shower. We had to fill a trash can with water to pour over ourselves. When we told the owner, he said it wasn’t normal and someone would come fix it, but we never heard back. Based on previous reviews, this seems to be a known issue that never gets resolved.
Playa del Carmen is *very* touristy on Fifth Avenue, but in a fun, musical vibe—we never felt unsafe. There are *tons* of little souvenir shops for tourists on this street. There’s a beautiful monumental sculpture on the beach (the two figures meeting in the air), next to which you can see the Voladores show (men climbing a pole, tying themselves with ropes, and descending headfirst while "flying" around the pole). The show is tip-based and happens several times a day. In our opinion, Calle 38 is prettier than Fifth Avenue—it’s lush, green, and quieter, with the sea at the end. Great for an early evening stroll. We had really good meals at great prices at "El Tio Noy" tacos, just a few meters from Fifth Avenue in a side street.
For souvenirs, we’d recommend going to Walmart instead of Fifth Avenue—you’ll find skulls, tequila, mezcal, keychains, mugs, glasses... at good, fixed prices.
Friday, July 17:
We did the excursion to Isla Contoy. Isla Contoy is an uninhabited, highly protected island. Only 200 people are allowed to land per day on a rotating basis, so only a few companies have permission to dock there. Most agencies subcontract the day to a third-party company.
We booked through VRM (Viviendo Riviera Maya), but it was Ocean Tours Mexico that handled the tour. Contoy is a little paradise. We were accompanied by multilingual guides, including French speakers, throughout the day. Steffy gave us info about the island during a short walk on the marked trails, and Leño Tlatemoa kept the mood up on the boat rides with music and dancing. Isla Contoy is *truly* stunning, and the lunch was delicious: grilled fish and chicken, guacamole and tortilla chips, rice, fruit, drinks (everything is brought and taken back by the guides). The snorkeling part was pretty disappointing if you’ve done it in Cozumel, though. The stop at Isla Mujeres isn’t very interesting either—it’s too short to explore, and the island is *extremely* touristy. Still, the excursion was very well organized, and we had a great day (2970 pesos per person).
Saturday, July 18:
We wanted to go snorkeling in Cozumel but thought the prices from French-speaking agencies were too high. Plus, for snorkeling, we figured we didn’t *need* a French-speaking guide.
So we found a much cheaper solution by taking the ferry from Playa del Carmen ourselves and choosing an agency in Playa. The round-trip ferry cost 663.50 pesos per person. Then we took a taxi to the snorkeling boat (100 pesos). The agency we chose is called Mystic Snorkel—they don’t have a physical office. The tour cost 1400 pesos per person. It was a small boat, but that day we were the only ones, so we got a private tour at the group rate. We stopped at 4 different sites, all very different and beautiful. We saw all kinds of fish, corals, a nurse shark, and turtles. El Cielo, with its huge starfish, is *exceptional*. If you’re going snorkeling in the Yucatan Peninsula, this is *the* tour to do—the other sites are pretty "poor" in comparison.
Sunday, July 19:
Morning dive with Triton Diving. I chose the Cozumel dive option. Great experience.
Booking via WhatsApp was easy. On the day of the dive, Selene, who speaks French, was our guide. She’s *very* attentive to the group’s safety. The briefings are clear and precise. In Cozumel, we did 2 very different sites: the first was a drift dive with lots of life—beautiful corals and fish. The second was a wreck, the C53, a 56-meter boat you can enter. Not much marine life, but a beautiful wreck intentionally sunk for divers—still in great condition. An unforgettable moment. Selene even took videos during the dive, which the club sends you for free afterward. I’d *highly* recommend this club.
Just so you know, in Playa del Carmen, the beaches were full of sargassum during our stay, despite barriers and daily cleanup. Locals told us the problem is getting worse and the sargassum is arriving earlier in the season. Tourism has taken a *big* hit this summer, and they’re wondering if tourism can even survive the sargassum season anymore. A lot of tourists are heading to the islands—Isla Mujeres and Cozumel—to enjoy the beaches, as the west side of those islands is sargassum-free.
Monday, July 20:
Colectivo to Puerto Morelos. First, a colectivo toward Cancun that drops you off between Puerto Morelos town and Puerto Morelos beach (40 pesos per person), then another from that junction to the beach (10 pesos per person).
In Puerto Morelos, we’d booked a room via Airbnb at "Piedra del Caribe." *Best* place we stayed in Mexico. It’s an aparthotel. Our room was ready before check-in, so they let us in early. The place matched the description—spacious, with a comfortable king-size bed. The shower had *great* pressure, which isn’t a given in Mexico. The staff was super friendly and welcoming. They let us use the pool, restrooms, and rooftop shower after check-out while we waited for our ride to Cancun Airport. They even kept our luggage. I *highly* recommend this place.
In Puerto Morelos, there was *way* less sargassum than in Playa del Carmen—it was actually swimmable.
We did the snorkeling tour with the fishermen’s cooperative for 450 pesos per person for 2 hours. The reef is close to the beach (you’re not allowed to swim there), so the boat ride is short. It’s not as pretty as Cozumel, but it’s nice and affordable. On Puerto Morelos’s page, you can also access a small, not-very-well-preserved reef. There’s also a cenote in the sea where fresh water mixes with saltwater—the water is murky there. We had a great dinner and excellent cocktails at "La Choza del Puerto."
Tuesday, July 21:
Wandered around Puerto Morelos (check out the church and read everything—it’s entertaining!), relaxed by the hotel pool, and left for Cancun Airport by taxi (400 pesos) booked via InDrive to head back to France.
Our highlights:
- Holbox
- The whale shark tour
- The cenotes
- The local flora and fauna (so present!)
- Isla Contoy
- Cabo Catoche (except for the snorkeling)
What we liked least:
- The bioluminescence (barely visible despite good conditions)
- The food—we found it not very diverse in taquerias
- The constant tipping
- The lack of water pressure in showers (fixed, wall-mounted, no hose or showerhead)
Don’t hesitate to ask if you have any questions while it’s still fresh in our minds.
Here we go—finally, the big day has arrived! A trip the whole family (my two kids, my husband, and me) had been looking forward to for so long.
To keep it short, we left from Nice, arrived in Namibia on June 25, 2025, and left again on the 21st—four weeks later.
We used an agency for all the camping reservations, activities, and the car rental. At least that side of things was taken care of. Michaël was our contact throughout the planning and the trip itself.
We spent our first night at Londiningi BB. A bit out of the city center but very quiet. The rooms were spacious and clean, and we could eat on-site that evening. Perfect for recovering from the flight.
This travel journal is our second on VoyageForum, following last year’s where we recounted our four weeks in Vietnam.
The goal remains the same: since some members on this site share tips, experiences, and great deals that help us prepare for our trips, we do the same after returning—both to give back a little and in the hope that our experiences might be useful to others in some way.
Our route was as follows: Bangkok, Siem Reap, Krabi, Suratthani, Koh Phangan, Koh Tao, Chumphon, Bang Saphan, Prachuab Khiri Khan, Sam Roi Yod, Hua Hin, Phetchaburi, Bangkok.
Beyond rediscovering Bangkok, our objectives were the long-held dream of seeing Angkor and exploring southern Thailand, much of which isn’t overly touristy.
A quick big thank-you to Barbot, who took the time to answer several of our questions.
12/07/2013
The cheapest flight we found earlier this year was a Paris-Bangkok route with a layover in Moscow for 1440 €, total for two people.
So, this time we tried Aeroflot. Airbus A318 for the first leg, A330 for the second. Nothing particularly annoying to report—the passengers were very calm, the cabin temperature was comfortable, and we had enough legroom.
That said, the quality of the meal trays was pretty mediocre, and the flight attendants weren’t exactly comedians.
We’d like to remind everyone that it’s best to exchange as little money as possible at the airport upon arrival, since the rate is about 5% worse than at city banks.
Of course, we made sure to take the airport exit where you can catch official taxis to avoid getting scammed. So, we queued up, a little lady gave us the ticket, and off we went with the driver.
Generally, this system works well because these drivers are registered, know their duties, and the risks they face if they break the rules. Except that day, right off the bat, we got the scammer of the day. His first move was to snatch the ticket from my wife’s hands—the one you’re supposed to keep in case of a complaint. My husband saw it, but after a full day of travel, we were a bit out of it, and honestly, there was no reason to be suspicious. But once we started driving, the guy refused to turn on the meter. We insisted more and more firmly, but nothing. So, I used the famous method of opening the door and starting to step out of the car. At 40 km/h, that scares the driver more than the passenger. He finally turned on the meter, but that didn’t calm him down—quite the opposite. For the next half-hour, he ruined the ride by demanding extra fees here and there. Having dealt with several scam attempts last year in Vietnam, this wasn’t exactly new, and we were proud of ourselves for staying pretty zen. Still, this guy was a little scary—he was completely wired and aggressive. Honestly, it was hard not to think he was on something. He’d be perfect for a *Scarface* remake. When we finally arrived at the hotel, he followed us to the entrance. We paid the two tolls (25 and 45 baht), gave him the usual 100 baht extra for the ride, and stayed polite but firm. So, meter: 245 baht + 100 baht + 25 and 45 baht for tolls—we paid the exact amount, no way we were tipping this guy. He left furious, but he was already like that before picking us up... Anyway, avoid Mr. Chartree Chidchen, number 089 826 7308, car E2663!
We were so relieved to finally settle in at Feung Nakorn Balcony hotel in the temple district. 42 € per night, great reception, all the staff is friendly. The AC works fine, the bed seemed hard at first but turned out to be comfortable. The hotel is quiet, away from the nightlife, but at this time of year, many places are less crowded than in high season. Even with a nice fish pond and outdoor breakfast area, it’s a decent hotel, though we felt we could’ve found something better.
After a night on the plane, the first afternoon is always a bit of a slog. We napped for a few hours, and when we woke up—guess what—we were starving. We visited a temple across from the hotel (nothing special) and then decided to take the Chao Phraya Express, the river shuttle that serves many piers along the river. It was a really enjoyable experience. The steel gangway wobbles when you board and disembark, the boat sits low in the water, and sometimes you get splashed. During peak times, you’re packed in like sardines, but most of all, there’s that exotic urban landscape passing by, especially the temple rooftops.
At that exact moment, the boat was packed. We didn’t see a ticket booth at the pier, and we tried in vain to pay the few baht for the ride. The cashier on the boat was too busy, and another employee we called didn’t have time to help us. Oh well, we weren’t going to force the issue. Still, this mode of transport is super practical for avoiding traffic, and at the piers, the lines with station names are clearly marked, with colors matching the flags on the boats. Combined with a map like the *Routard* guide, it’s easy to navigate.
We easily made it to the restaurant *Harmonique*, located near one of these piers. It’s a unanimous favorite on this forum, and let us tell you—it’s well-deserved. What a wonderful experience that evening! We only saw the outdoor gazebo because there was no way we were dining inside. It’s not flashy, so those looking for a luxurious setting should look elsewhere.
That night, the staff was a bit slow, and we had to track them down several times to move things along. But oh, my friends—what a feast on the plate! Start with the appetizer platter for two at 250 baht, featuring four specialties, each more tempting than the last, followed by their famous crab curry for 200 baht. There’s *so much* crab in there! The dish is so delicious and rich that when you finish, you feel—how to put it—like it was almost *too* good, to the point where you’re almost put off eating for days. And also, oh yes, we *will* be back. Their satay chicken is just as amazing, and it would be a crime not to mention their generous dessert with ice cream, warm banana, and chocolate, plus their *excellent* almond milkshake.
Later, we took a taxi to Kao San Road, mainly to book a Ko Tao-Chumphon trip for 600 baht per person at the Lomprayah counter. In hindsight, we should’ve booked all three of our trips there right away.
Kao San Road is *ultra*-touristy—better for younger crowds, but it’s still worth seeing. There’s rock ‘n’ roll, hippies, and crowds everywhere.
We walked back to the hotel, and when we got a little lost near a canal, a really nice older Thai man spontaneously appeared out of the night to kindly point us in the right direction.
Finally, a real long night of sleep ahead—we cranked up the AC. Sweet, the vacation has begun!
2- Around San Pedro
We were trapped, and even our guide looked nervous. After what felt like an eternity (though it was only a few minutes), the herd finally moved on, freeing the track. That afternoon, we did a self-drive safari and—you guessed it—we had zero interest in running into elephants again.
The next day, we headed back to Lilongwe for our flight home. It was a fantastic, varied trip with some intense moments (sometimes *too* intense). Malawi offers amazing opportunities for those who want more than just wildlife reserves.
Vila beach
Sunset behind Santiago
The rocks and sea at Ponta Preta
At the summit of Monte Batalha
Calheta
Calheta de Baixo
The beaches just keep coming...
The dunes
The 3 coconut trees, a landmark to find the track
Boca da Ribeira beach
The hills on our right
Ribeira Dom João
Barreiro
The old track
The church in Vila do Maio
The large solidified magma massifs that shape the heart of the island have created a large depression more protected from the sun at its center, allowing the growth of a vast laurel forest, today grouped within the Garajonay National Park, La Gomera’s green lung, which has earned it the status of a World Biosphere Reserve. Its completely European appearance contrasts sharply with the rocky and tropical landscapes of the rest of the island. Thus, the climate varies greatly from one point to another on the island: in summer, you can quickly go from a dry and sunny valley at 35°C to a humid forest area at altitude at 18°C.
On the right, the "welcome marker"—those dates offered everywhere as a sign of hospitality. On the left, a tribute to those stunning doors worn by time, admired all over the old quarters, including the abandoned ones.
Hospitality will often lead you to accept a small coffee, an "Omani coffee," very light, subtly flavored with cardamom, maybe a touch of saffron, and occasionally rosewater.
Here, I’ve depicted a man in the common everyday attire of Omanis: the dishdasha, mostly white (during the week and daytime; colors are more common in the evening or on Fridays and Saturdays). While you’ll see some men dressed in Western clothes, they’re very few. The white dishdasha is truly the shared attire of all men. The dishdasha, which has no hood, is distinguished by a small pom-pom attached to the collar, the furakha, which is soaked in perfume. And believe me, Omanis go overboard with it! "It smells like the pom-pom" is an expression that’s now part of our shared language, my husband and I.
Another must of men’s attire is the kuma, a small round head covering, usually white with brightly colored patterns. The keffiyeh is also worn (but without the cord called an agal in Arab countries), and it’s mostly worn by those with roots in the desert, from what I understood.
And what about the women, you might ask? Some are veiled, some in full black (but not a burka—more like a chador + abaya), due to the influence of Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates, whereas the traditional outfit used to be a layering of very colorful dresses. Most of the women we saw wore neutral clothing, a plain veil over their hair, but with their faces uncovered. We also saw many saris and colorful veils—don’t forget that 40% of the population consists of Indian, Nepalese, and Bangladeshi immigrants, who work a lot in tourism, hospitality, restaurants, services, and construction.
Just to clarify, as a tourist, there’s no pressure to wear a veil, and never any disapproving looks. Of course, you’ll save the mini shorts, plunging necklines, bare shoulders, and midriffs for the hotel terrace—but I’d say that’s the same for men and women, and with the sun being strong, it’s better for your skin too.
Here’s the introduction! In the next post, I’ll tell you about my itinerary, and we can dive in!
Roundabouts are particularly interesting because they feature emblems of Turkmen culture, like the dog, a carpet, the Ahal Teke horse, or Muslim symbols, even though the presence of Islamic artifacts is quite limited.
