Avant toute chose, le contexte : j'ai effectué avec un ami entre avril et Août 2010 un stage de développement d'industries textiles dans le désert du Kutch dans le Gujarat. J'étais tout proche de la frontière pakistanaise en Inde. Le Gujarat est une région très traditionnelle si on la compare à son voisin le Rajasthan.
Tout au long de mon séjour (qui a aussi inclus quelques jours au beau milieu des bidonvilles de Mumbai logé dans l'immeuble de mon entreprise, et une escale au Népal), j'ai tenu un carnet de route dans lequel j'analysais et exposais les extraordinaires expériences en immersion (http://valdotkom.com).
Après quelques mois, j'ai pris une semaine pour aller visiter le Rajasthan.
Les zones touristiques sont immorales (20 mai 2010)
Nous sommes partis le samedi 8 mai de Bhuj pour notre voyage dans le Rajasthan. Peu avant notre départ, en attendant notre bus, on passe rendre une visite à la famille de Bhuj qui vit sous une bâche sur le bord de la route. Nous discutons avec des signes, et on prend autant de plaisir qu’eux. Les fous rires avec eux, notamment avec leur fille d’environ 3 ans côtoient des instants de découverte étonnants. Ils ne connaissent pas leur âge et tentent de l’estimer gênés, lorsque nous leur posons la question. On l’est encore d’avantage. Peu après, la mère de la petite tente de nous faire comprendre quelque chose par les gestes.
Elle désigne la gamine, puis nous désigne et fait un grand geste vers l’extérieur. Nous nous questionnons « As-tu compris ce qu’elle tente de dire ? – J’ai un doute, mais j’en ai bien peur… ». Après réflexion, l’objet est sans équivoque : ils tentent de nous donner leur fille afin que nous la ramenions en France. Au premier coup, nous ignorons la proposition, troublés.
A notre retour de la semaine de voyage, on retourne les voir et constatons que la proposition est toujours d’actualité –sans pour autant qu’ils insistent–. Nous leur faisons comprendre que nous ne pouvons pas et que nous ne voulons pas le faire. Ce genre de scène nous a retourné, comme beaucoup de scènes que nous avons vues durant cette dernière semaine.
Il y a par exemple cette femme touriste à Pushkar, avec un appareil photo doté d’un lourd objectif. Elle s’approche d’un vieillard qui attend de se faire prendre en photo, et le mitraille (littéralement) sous tous les angles pendant que l’intéressé reste debout, avec de grands yeux inexpressifs. La photo sera sans aucun doute sublime, peut être mieux même que celles que l’on voit dans les beaux livres. Elle le remercie avec un billet de 10 roupies avant de reprendre son chemin, pas gênée le moins du monde.
A présent je m’adresse à ce genre de personnes : mais quelle pourriture êtes-vous pour oser débarquer dans ce genre de pays déjà si immoral avec ses habitants comme si vous alliez au zoo ? Une fois rentrés, nous discutons avec Kirit de ce fait qu’il juge révoltant. C’est pourquoi il cherche à promouvoir un tourisme différent dans le Gujarat, à côté d’un Rajasthan qu’il constate pourri par un tourisme de soi disant routards. Ceux-ci osent affirmer que l’argent ne fait pas le bonheur tout en venant y profiter de leur pouvoir d’achat. Pendant ce temps là, certains meurent de faim pendant que ces premiers cherchent à se dédouaner de la misère du monde. Routards, venez dans le Gujarat : vous constaterez aisément que ici, l’argent ne sert vraiment à rien. Passé un cap (que nous estimons à un peu plus d’une centaine d’euros par mois, logement, nourriture et maigres loisirs compris) il est impossible d’en profiter d’avantage. C’est pourquoi nous, logés et nourris n’avons dépensé que 40 euros en un mois et demie ici, sans se priver. Le « plaisir » tel que nous le concevons semble toutefois être très limité chez les gens que nous avons côtoyés. Inconcevable dans un pays comme la France où tout nous est accessible, hein ?
On parle à l’instant de pouvoir d’achat en zone touristique. Cela me fait aussi penser à notre visite à Jaipur qui nous a profondément troublés (bien entendu nous fûmes contents des retrouvailles avec Ksénia).
La ville est en soi assez étouffante et un peu moins accueillante que celles que nous avons vues jusqu’à présent. Le rabattage, inconnu au bataillon dans le Gujarat, y est incessant comme partout dans l’Etat. On y a séjourné dans une trainee house, qui est comparable à une auberge espagnole, entre français, polonais et russes.
Le soir, après un apéritif assez rapidement enivrant, prohibition et régime du Gujarat oblige, nous partons dans une soirée organisée dans un palace. Ce type de soirées semble être courant et rassemble les expatriés du coin. Pour le dire autrement, si nous sommes blancs et mal habillés (et même plus ou moins crades si l’on s’arrête à Flavien et moi) : nous rentrons. Si nous ne sommes pas blancs, il faut espérer jouer des relations, mais en gros il n’y a aucune chance à l’horizon.
C’est donc dans une soirée réservée aux blancs dans un palace avec piscine (dans laquelle j’aurai d’ailleurs passé la majeure partie de la soirée) que nous nous trouvons. La plupart sont en groupe, il n’y a pas d’ambiance particulière. Ils viennent profiter de leur pouvoir d’achat (comparable au nôtre) dans un palace où cet idiot d’organisateur a calqué ses prix en fonction de grosses soirées françaises. Pas même 5% des personnes ici présentes, moi y compris, n’y seraient rentrés en métropole. Un indien relooké en aborigène vend au bar de l’alcool hors de prix, ou une barquette de frites à 8 euros pièce. Pour le côté « hype », on repassera. Une telle différence et de tels privilèges nous étonne et nous choque. Se sont-ils fait la même réflexion, ou sont-ils aveugles ?
Du zoo humain aux quartiers riches où l’on passe du bon temps entre blancs, nous rentrons les jours suivants à Bhuj où le rabattage n’existe pas, où les regards sont toujours curieux, où certains sont tellement pauvres qu’ils nous demandent d’emmener leur propre enfant en France. C’est peut être ça la vraie Inde. Qu’on l’apprécie, ou qu’on en souffre : ça dépend des jours.
namaste
c'est tellement (helas) vrai ce que tu dis. tu es jeune et donc choqué par ce que tu découvres mais ceci n'est pas nouveau et se pratique tout autour de la planete. le riche ou pseudo riche (un smicard français est riche en inde) snobe le pauvre. ce ne sont pas des voyageurs ces gens qui ne sont satisfait que quand ils ne payent pas cher et surtout quand ils découvrent le pouvoir de l'argent. ils jouissent de pouvoir dominer un homme avec un billet de 10 roupies.dans tous les hauts lieux touristiques c'est comme tu le dis le "zoo"
j'ai choisi de voyager avec le budget local? cad que je n'utilise que les transports locaux, les restaurants locaux et le plus souvent possible l'hébergement local. j'ai une meilleure relation avec les habitants et personne ne me parle d'argent. je ne voyage pas ainsi par soucis d'économie, je suis souvent tres généreux avec les gens que je rencontre. je ne leur donne pas d'argent mais je découvre tres vite ce dont ils ont besoin. surtout qu'ils me le rendent bien, grace à eux j'apprend au moins une chose par jour et ce n'est pas négligeable.
j' ai séjourné quelques temps dans le gujurat pres de probandar dans un village musulman et pres de dwarka également, j'en ai un exellent souvenir.
si se goinffrer à moindre cout satisfait certains touristes et que ça peut ameliorer le niveau de vie de la population locale, pour quoi pas! mais j'en doute. plus il ya de touristes, plus il y a d'argent, plus il ya d'arnaques et plus il y a de pauvres.
bon voyage
Oui, ce mode de voyage m'a vraiment convaincu. Sorte de rite de passage à l'âge adulte!
Je compte reproduire ce système pour 5 mois à planifier dans les 2 ans qui arrivent an Amérique du Sud (de Mexico à Ushaïa). ça risque d'être (trop) ambitieux car c'est immense, mais j'en parlerai sur le forum dès que j'en aurai l'occasion.
Pour en revenir à l'Inde, le fait de vivre dans une zone non-touristique telle que le Gujarat tout en ayant l'occasion de visiter les incontournables. Ce sont les clés de mon analyse dans le carnet de voyage.
C'est fou car on a découvert pour la première fois de notre (courte) vie qu'au delà d'un certain seuil de revenus (j'étais dans le Kutch) on ne pouvait plus s'acheter d'avantage de choses pour élever notre mode de vie. Par exemple, mes deux premiers mois sur place m'ont coûté grossièrement 120 euros, en incluant 5 jours au milieu des bidonvilles à Mumbai : logé nourri, seul le taxi/autorickshaw taxe. Alors que dans une région comme le Rajasthan, quelque soit ton niveau de richesse, tu auras toujours un truc adapté à ton porte monnaie. Du plus simple lodge au plus beau palace. Pas dans le coin du Gujarat où j'étais (j'avoue ne pas connaître le coin dans lequel tu as séjourné). Lorsqu'on le constate, c'est assez déstabilisant.
Nos seuls achats étaient des bananes à 20 roupies, des mangues à 30 (au kilo, j'en rêve encore la nuit), une bouteille de sprite par jour (car plus du tout de sucre = 17kgs en moins en 4 mois malgré le 1/2L de sprite/j, c'est pas rien!)... C'est à la fois difficile au début, mais ça procure vraiment un sentiment de plénitude. On se sent vivre dans ces moments. Surtout à cette période où le thermomètre approchait les 50 degrés.
Le virus du périgrinateur (très contagieux!) m'a piqué. Je ne pense plus qu'à repartir dès que j'ai les moyens logistiques pour ça.
Comme d'habitude les leçons de morale ça me gave !....tu découvres la vente des enfants, des "petites filles", elle est monnaie courante dans les pays pauvres et malheureusement pas seulement pour les adoptions "sauvages"...crois tu que les gens ne sont pas conscients du sort des enfants des rues. Qui est le plus répréhensible le touriste de passage, qui routard ou pas est finalement de passage, ou la corruption infecte, les système de castes qui perdurent maintiennent des êtres humains au delà de la pauvreté. Tu oublies également que la plupart des voyageurs sont en vacances et pas en mission humanitaire. Cela n'empêche ni le respect, ni la délicatesse envers autrui.
Ne juge pas trop vite, certaines personnes fortunées sont de généreux donateurs d'autres bien plus modestes ne font pas un geste pour celui qui crèvent à côté de lui ! Quant à la photographie, c'est une question de respect et de bon sens, ....en Inde comme ailleurs; mais en Inde on est très souvent sollicité pour prendre des familles, des enfants en photos drôle de culture autour de l'image, on est également sollicité pour être pris en photo les deux ne me dérange pas.... Le reste, je n'irai jamais photographié un mendiant ou un lépreux sauf pour témoigner de l'indifférence dans laquelle les gens meurent.
En résumé, c'est bien gentil tout cela, tu accuses les touristes mais je ne vois pas un mot sur les indiens eux mêmes qui n'hésitent pas à frapper, pousser, villipander les mendiants et les pauvres, à maltraiter femmes et petites filles (et parfois à les assassiner ou les défigurer...). Sur la corruption galopante, les riches tjrs plus riches, les pauvres virés des grandes villes.....
Oui, ce mode de voyage m'a vraiment convaincu. Sorte de rite de passage à l'âge adulte!
Tout à fait !
Rien de nouveau sous le soleil.
Tu as 19 ans et tu découvres le monde.
Un monde écartelé entre des contrastes parfois terriblement redoutables. Alors bien sûr, tu t’indignes (à juste titre) de la misère étalée, de la valeur que l’on donne à la vie ici et là (enfants à vendre ou à donner en Inde ou en Thaïlande, sinon à dépecer pour récupérer des pièces détachées comme les yeux, les reins, le foie, etc… (Brésil, Chine, …)), de l’écart riches-pauvres, des violences physiques et/ou morales, du comportement des touristes, etc…
Mais peut-être que ton regard n’est pas le bon ; je m’explique :
Un petit tuyau pour mieux appréhender une destination : changer son regard. Quand tu voyages, laisse ton regard d’occidental derrière toi. En Inde, regarde avec un regard d’indien ou de vache sacrée, quand tu seras en Afrique, regarde avec un regard d’africain de chameau ou de gnou, au Pérou, regarde avec les yeux d’un inca ou du condor, etc… Je pratique cette distanciation dans mes voyages, et les animaux nous apprennent autant que les hommes sur la société humaine et l’espace dans lesquels ils évoluent. Les choses sont mises alors dans une perspective nouvelle et parfois sidérante.
Tes indignations légitimes s’émousseront forcément au fil de tes voyages en même temps que ton regard mûrira sur les choses de la vie telles qu’elles vont sur notre pauvre planète.
Abstiens-toi de juger (si je peux me permettre ce conseil, moi qui pourrait être ton grand-père). Tu ne sais pas encore comment tu évolueras et te comporteras plus tard. J’ai d’ailleurs noté que ton projet à moyen-long terme est de t’installer aux USA n’est-ce-pas ? Donc, quelque part et malgré tes témoignages remplis de trouble, tu as déjà choisi ton camp …non ?
Si tu persistes à tenir des carnets de voyage, tu souriras lorsque tu les reliras dans 5, 10, 15 ans ou plus, sur la fraîcheur et la naïveté de tes notes (c’est en tout cas ce qu’il m’est arrivé en relisant les miens à plus de 30 ans de distance !).
Tout ceci dit très amicalement et en te souhaitant plein de voyages et de découvertes enrichissantes !
" Le voyage est un retour vers l'essentiel"
(Proverbe tibétain)
"La beauté réside dans l'oeil de celui qui regarde."
(Shoshitsu Sen)
Premièrement je tiens à préciser que le sujet que j'ai entamé, c'est sur les comportements de touristes en zones touristiques. Il ne faut pas oublier ça avant de prendre des raccourcis. Je n'ai pas à me focaliser sur la culture indienne ici. Il est très probable que j'en parlerai dans un autre contexte (j'ai déjà une tripotée d'articles écris à ce sujet).
Je sais parfaitement que le quotidien est injuste sur place. Plus d'une fois j'ai croisé des règlements de comptes en pleine rue -notamment dans les bidonvilles de Mumbai-. Je ne sais pas non plus combien de cadavres j'ai croisé sur le trottoir. Ces faits conjugués au comportements de certains touristes dans certains endroits procure chez certains le besoin d'en parler et de débiter ce que l'on a sur la pomme.
Je n'entends JAMAIS faire de généralités, mais il y a toujours quelqu'un pour répondre sèchement derrière, donc mea culpa, j'aurais dû préciser que j'avais aussi de la considération pour certains aussi. Quant à la corruption endémique, on la vit au quotidien, c'est presque devenu une norme sur place -j'en ai d'ailleurs fait les frais à mon échelle- mais ce n'est encore pas le sujet ici. Selon les yeux d'un occidental je te rejoins sur ce point, certains aspects de la culture / religion sont injustes et détestables.
Je n'ai en aucun cas la prétention de passer pour arrogant, mais pas non plus le souhait de passer pour un voyageur objectif. Peut-être connais-tu l'Inde, tu sembles au courant de ce qu'il s'y passe. Cependant, ce n'est pas le cas de tout le monde. Qui pourra remonter ces faits au public si ce n'est pas des personnes qui l'ont constaté par eux-même sur place? Je ne compte pas tomber dans le cliché du gars donneur de leçons dans une éternelle contestation de l'ordre établi comme on en croise de temps en temps.
Pour finir, bien évidemment que les touristes ne sont pas là pour faire de l'humanitaire. Je ne l'affirme pas. Tu dis aussi que "la photographie, c'est une question de respect et de bon sens". C'est exactement le problème que je soulève et que certains oublient, d'où l'exemple.
Après tout, j'attendais ton genre de réponse, du moment que ça permet de débattre, je suis toujours présent.
Entièrement d'accord. Je ne veux pas juger, tout du moins pas gratuitement.
Le fait est que j'ai tenté d'adopter le regard de l'indien, mais je n'ai pas réussi complètement. Je m'explique : j'étais en stage dans 4 industries textiles différentes dans tout le Gujarat. Le mode de vie y est plutôt rudimentaire dans le désert du Kutch (ce que j'ai supporté à ma grande surprise sans aucun problème finalement) et la région n'est pas touristique en raison d'un tremblement de terre en 2001 qui à décimé à peu près tout de construit, et des troubles communautaires en 2002 (les hindoux ont tué 2000 musulmans). On sent de temps en temps, bien que rarement, que les plaies ne sont pas pansées, ni pour la catastrophe, ni pour les troubles. La proximité du Pakistan (seulement quelques kilomètres lorsqu'on intervenait dans les villages) influe beaucoup sur le mode de vie.
C'était mon premier "long" voyage (5 mois), ma première confrontation avec une culture dont je n'imaginais pas encore l'ampleur des différences. Un autre monde. J'ai adoré l'expérience, car on grandit énormément, et on gagne un mental et le mieux : on minimise les petits tracas quotidiens. Cependant je n'ai pas vraiment aimé le pays, même si parfois ce mode de vie "où justement on se sent vivre" manque. Ces données ajoutées au fait que nous devions prendre dans le cadre de notre stage un point de vue occidental pour analyser (l'objectif était l'internationalisation pour ces petites ONG) ont fait que l'adaptation était impossible, malgré nos tentatives.
Par ailleurs, le déséquilibre vie "stage" (professionnel) et personnel (inexistant vu que je n'avais aucun moyen d'extérioriser mis à part en écrivant des textes comme ci-dessus) a entamé le moral, surtout quand j'ai vu que l'accueil était plutôt distant de temps en temps. Nous étions les seuls blancs de peau (on a du en croiser 4 ou 5 en 4 mois seulement) alors les réactions étaient assez inédites.
Pourtant, nous nous sommes peu à peu habitués à cette vie dans le Kutch, la vraie Inde comme je l'ai découverte est là. Les relations sont saines, pas intéressées et quand nous sommes correctement introduits la méfiance fait place à une amitié tellement fraternelle qu'on en était parfois gênés qu'ils cherchent à nous payer tout pour bien vivre alors qu'on ne leur offre que de notre présence! Nous avons quand même décidé de partir une dizaine de jours dans le Rajasthan (magnifique d'ailleurs) où alors que les conditions de vie sont peut être meilleures pour nous (un peu d'alcool, c'est interdit dans le Gujarat + un peu de poulet, car nous avons 90% de végétariens là bas!), mais les relations sont trèèèès différentes (on rajoute pour pas mal de monde -mais pas tous- l'intérêt pour notre porte monnaie). C'est là qu'on a vu les scènes décrites ci-dessus et qu'on est rentrés assez remontés. Après il faut replacer l'article dans son contexte.
Oui, j'ai réellement hâte de relire tout ça dans 10 ans, et sans doute me payer des bonnes tranches de rire, attendri par le gamin qui est parti prendre sa claque à l'autre bout du monde sans s'attendre aux conséquences humaines.
Pour les USA, non je ne compte pas m'y installer à long terme, c'est plus un moyen d'accéder à comment je veux vivre plus tard. Je suis plutôt un jeune à challenges. C'est mon moteur : il y a eu l'Inde, et il y aura les USA, puis un trip que j'organise pour 6 mois en Amérique du Sud, de Mexico à Ushuaïa -mais j'ai encore quelques années avant que je puisse le concrétiser-.
Ceci dit, je tiens à préciser que je comprends parfaitement la réaction de gildadesiles, mais rédigé dans l'état physique et mental où j'étais, je peux dire que c'était un vrai sas de décompression que de l'écrire. Ne j'ai pas cherché à exagérer les faits, mais tournés comme ils sont tournés, ils cherchaient aussi à procurer cet électrochoc chez le lecteur, pour avoir un aperçu de notre vision à ce moment précis.
Merci pour l'intervention, elle laisse penseur et incite à réfléchir sous un autre angle!
Le mauvais comportement de certains touristes est inévitable que l'on soit en Inde ou ailleurs....j'ai bien entendu qu'il s'agissait des zones touristiques ! le souci, mais je me trompe peut être, c'est que lorsqu'on parle tourisme on entend touriste étranger .... Or les touristes sont dans les zones touristiques indiennes tant étrangers qu'Indien; je me suis beaucoup intéressée à l'Inde depuis que j'y suis allée pour des séjours trop courts pour connaître ce produit, une vie n'y suffirait d'ailleurs pas, mais la méconnaissance sur site peut être pallier par la lecture d'ouvrages qui permet d'approfondir ce que l'on ne connait pas. je ne défends pas le mauvais comportement des touristes (routard ou autres d'ailleurs) il semble évident que lorsqu'on voyage il faut faire preuve de "pudeur" et de "respect", ...
j'ai par ailleurs trouver des comportement de certains touristes particulièrement détestables...à Pushkar où certains pseudos routards jouaient les bons samaritains, distribuaient leur fric et leur gateau sec à des gamins des rues et se pavanaient dans le Haveli du coin. Quelque chose sonnait faux dans le comportement de ces touristes...Mais était ce ma vision personnelle, le fait que j'ai trouvé Pushkar assez factice finalement, c'est un véritable ressenti mais le contexte, l'environnement ont peut être déformé ma perception du lieu ? Difficile à savoir
Il ne faut pas non plus oublier qu'en France beaucoup de personnes vivent très mal, notamment les sdf surtout l'hivers, les retraités qui ont une petite retraite, les familles monoparentales, ect.... et on est bien souvent indifférent au sort de ces personnes là. Quand je rentre tard le soir il m'arrive de plus en plus de voir des personnes faire les poubelles, surtout des personnes âgées. Bien sûr j'imagine bien que la pauvreté en Inde est sans doute bien plus présente qu'en France, mais être indifférent au sort de nos pauvres et pas aux pauvres d'Inde (ou d'autres pays pauvre) c'est faire deux poids deux mesures.
Azuras, je pense que ça n'est pas le sujet. Enfin, si j'ai bien compris le message initial. Il s'agit plus de la façon dont nous nous comportons. Après, la misère est plus photogénique quand elle est exotique...
Je n'ai passé que trois semaines au Rajasthan, mais c'est vrai que je me suis plusieurs fois dit "mais qu'est ce qu'il fait ?!?". Pour rester sur Pushkar, j'ai vu un couple balancer (il n'y a pas d'autres mots) des pièces à des gamins qui jouaient dans la rue. Le truc, c'est que les gamins en question étaient les enfants des familles qui tiennent les guesthouses du coin, et qu'ils ont paru bien choqués, eux aussi (ils faisaient du vélo...). Dans la même idée, j'ai eu honte pour un autre couple qui rigolaient de voir des enfants se bagarrer parce qu'ils n'avaient pas assez de bonbons...
Mais de manière générale, être en voyage désinhibe certaines personnes qui en viennent à avoir des comportements qu'ils n'oseraient pas avoir chez eux. Et ça n'est pas simplement par rapport à la pauvreté, c'est de manière générale, comme si le "local" n'était pas notre égal dès qu'on sort de nos frontières..
Madame Oreille se balade, Carnets de voyages à feuilleter
Blog voyage : photos, voyages, et conseils aux photographes voyageurs
Oui je reconnais Oreille être hors sujet, mais pas tant que ça, le couple dont tu parles qui envoie des pièces à des gamins les croyant pauvres ne donneront sans doute pas une pièces aux miséreux de leur propre pays. Finalement, pourquoi voit-on uniquement la misère en dehors de son pays?
Hello everyone on this forum!
I know in advance that what I'm about to say here won't please everyone, but honesty is a virtue, isn't it?
Here's the thing: for many years now, I've noticed a habit in French-speaking posts of using abbreviations left and right, as if to show that we're "in the know." Let me explain with a few examples:
- - In discussions about Peru, I see "Aguas" for "Aguas Calientes." And if it's Mexico, well, it'll be "Aguas" for "Aguascalientes"!
- - For Guatemala, "travelers" will say "Guaté." Come on, saying "Guatemalas" would maybe be the undeniable sign that you know nothing about the country???
- - Back from Indonesia, many will talk about how familiar they've become with the country's language: "bahasa." Of course, everyone will know what you're talking about, but it still gets on my nerves because the language (one of the many languages) of Indonesia is "bahasa Indonesia." "Bahasa" actually means "language," and you'll find this word of Indian origin ‘Bhāṣā’ (it's Sanskrit originally) outside Indonesia too: in Thailand, for example, any language will be "phasa" as in "phasa thai" (official Thai), "phasa isan" (what's spoken in northeastern Thailand), "phasa angkrit" = English, etc.
Am I an incorrigible nitpicker? Maybe. But I'd also find it ridiculous if a foreigner came and told me they visited "Monte" during their trip to France, when it was actually Monte Carlo.
I read a lot in English and don't think I've encountered such a habit among English speakers.
Who’d like to share their best and worst travel memories in a few lines?
For me, it’s watching the TAJ MAHAL at sunrise and getting chased by dogs at the top of a mountain pass in GREECE on the way back from ISTANBUL.
THANKS GUYS
This is my 15,000th post, and it's a message I would have preferred never to write.
Patrick—Yangguizi—won’t be returning from his trek in Uganda. His health betrayed him in the mountains.
Like many of you, I laughed until I couldn’t anymore at his travel stories. I met him in Shanghai, then in Istanbul... We scoured restaurants—he was an incredible expert on world cuisines. We relived Korea, China. Always brilliant, so sharp, so funny, so down-to-earth. Being even a little bit his friend was something to be proud of. I think I envied him.
Patrick is still out there, of course...
He found his happiness running across the world. He’s on his path. He never doubted that "the traveler doesn’t even know if he’ll return one day."
Not sure this would’ve suited him, but his departure devastates me.
Alright,
Farewell, you foreign devil. Safe travels.
hello to all travelers with their eyes wide open to the desert...
I’ve always wondered what I was "doing" on this earth. And why my father, who died a few months after I was born—a former youngest French resistance fighter—joined the First Saharan Motorized Company in Atar and spent the rest of his life repairing army engines in Algeria, Mauritania, Senegal, Mali (which didn’t exist under that name back then), Morocco, and finally Algeria, where my mother was born and raised. (Believe me, it’s not "cool" being the child of a soldier in a country occupied by France, and even less so the child of a "pied-noir.")
Of course, I never got an answer: the dead don’t talk, and the army doesn’t either.
But here’s the thing—I had photos...
So naturally, one day I hit the road. I wanted to see, to understand.
It’s thanks to VF that I was able to do a little research on crossing the Morocco-Mauritania border, and I’m grateful to its members, just as I’m grateful to all those who welcomed me on the road for 14 years.
For the past few weeks, I’ve been wondering if I should talk about this or not...
It turns out the Mauritanians changed my life by asking for my help... And that started as early as February 2012... (Did I owe them something? No answer to that question.)
Ah, the irony—they saw me coming. But when you’re handed sick children and begged to do something, what would you have done? I’d worked in a hospital, so I knew a bit about the rules to follow. I didn’t hesitate.
And well, over all these years, I met doctors, surgeons, and together we organized care, evacuations of children, training for surgeons—even trying to stop children from having to travel outside their country. It was never easy. I’d like to thank those who supported us, as well as *La Chaîne de l’Espoir*, *La Fondation Face au Monde*, and everyone who built bridges between our two countries.
Unfortunately, despite the constant efforts of Mauritanian doctors and surgeons, some children couldn’t be helped in time. Today, I want to talk about four siblings—orphans of their mother—suffering from congenital glaucoma causing irreversible blindness. Their case was entrusted to me in 2020, just weeks before the big lockdown. We couldn’t do anything for them then, but when their father asked me for a gift, I rushed to my computer and wrote a story.
Through a tale, the children take a great journey, explore their country, and fulfill a dream. I never thought this book would be published—it was, in 2023.
This book pays tribute to Mauritania. It’s a message for those who know nothing about the hardships of life there, carrying both the harshness and beauty of an immense desert where you can travel by 4x4, bike, on foot, or by camel in complete safety. It bears witness to the kindness of Mauritanians toward travelers.
As a woman traveling alone in my vehicle—a now-rusted old Mercedes that no longer runs—I had the most beautiful encounters of my life there (I’ve seen other parts of the world...). The blind children of Choum, Atar, Nouadhibou, and Nouakchott will forever be in my heart.
Volunteer readers transcribed the book into a free audio version for the visually impaired. It’s available in sound libraries in France, the *Fondation Valentin Haüy*, and the Swiss Romande library.
I made my last trip to Mauritania in my old 4x4 to distribute the book everywhere, especially to its heroes and the school for the visually impaired in Nouakchott.
After that, I thought it was time to close the chapter because I no longer have the means or the strength to travel.
My publishers chose this title for it: *The Blue Eyes of the Desert*.
This publication helped a mission of Swiss volunteer ophthalmologists come to operate on glaucomas in Mauritania. I’m thrilled because they come back every year!
This adventure is ending, yes—everything must come to an end—but ultimately, it was born here, on the VF site!! So yes, I had to say it: THANK YOU!!!!!
Hi everyone,
I’m Loulou, a French expat who’s been living in Southeast Asia for about fifteen years, currently in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. A passionate walker at heart, I’ve trekked in Nepal (Thorung La, Mardi Himal), India, Vietnam, and I’m still planning new hikes (Char Dham, Langtang, Annapurna).
I’ve just published my first travel journal, recounting three months of walking and encounters across India. A portion of the sales goes to an educational center I support in Kep, for children whose parents work in the salt marshes.
I’m also working on a second book about Nepal with a musician friend, focusing on the Mardi Himal trek—two independent perspectives on the same journey.
Happy to swap stories with you about the Himalayas, India, Southeast Asia, or just the urge to hit the road and walk far from home.
Safe travels,
Loulou
Hi! It was totally by chance that I stumbled upon VoyageForum (an ad online and a story lol), and I’ve been reading some really old posts from 2011 about Thai massage schools—discussions on how to get by, accommodation, prices, etc. It reminded me of my own experience: I kept things simple by staying with a local family during my entire trip. I only shared all the expenses with them, which, I’ll admit, was super cheap… and I often traveled with them, which naturally opened a lot of doors for me. To start, at the school in Salaya, my Thai friend immediately connected me with Teacher Phong (the school’s mentor and teacher of teachers, a former monk). I was supposed to join a group session with other foreigners, but for some reason I don’t know, I got two days of private lessons for free with this expert… incredible! And on top of that, he loved France! It was an amazing experience. I "discovered" massage by chance—the Thai family just told me: "Try it, you’ll see!" (I’d had a pretty intense massage in the capital before 😅… but the next day, I felt unbelievably great!))
Every morning, I’d take a taxi (chosen by the Thai family at prices that beat all the competition) to this school—I’ve forgotten the name of the little village now… right in the heart of the countryside. Then, in the evenings, I’d keep practicing massage on all the family members… and they’d teach me Thai at the same time!))
Since then, I’ve practiced a bit, with lots of positive feedback. Following Teacher Phong’s advice—he thought my pressure was deep, firm, and precise—he strongly encouraged me to take this seriously.
I love Thailand so much. It’s a whole different way of living… and it’s a real blessing, even if I couldn’t live there full-time. Anyway, that was an unforgettable memory, and sometimes the Thai family and I still say hi—from 2011, 2013… right up to today!
"It seems to me that poverty would be less painful in the sun" wrote Aznavour...
Not sure...😕 Who can prove that people in hot countries are happier than others?
What do you think?
Is it better to live in Montpellier than in Lille?
Are the Pygmies happier than the Inuit?
Are Canadians less happy than the people of Louisiana?
Are there more French expats in hot countries?
And your travels? Do you choose your destinations based on the climate?
Do you rejoice when a bit of sunshine appears?
Hi everyone, just this once I’m not posting for a travel story, but to share a thought for Venezuela.
If you didn’t know—since it’s not making headlines—the country was hit by two 7.5-magnitude earthquakes last week. Over 2,200 people have died, more than 50,000 are missing, and some coastal towns have been completely destroyed.
Maybe when the scale of the humanitarian crisis becomes clear, our media will cover it a bit more... especially since earthquakes with this many casualties usually make the front page, but there’s been nothing in France.
So here’s a thought for this country, which, whatever you think of its politics, is a true jewel of South America, both for its landscapes and its people.
hi there
I’d like to invite you to discover my coastal province in central Vietnam: Quang Ngai.
This year, my province has really improved its infrastructure—mountains, countryside, and sea are all authentic here.
No harassers or thieves, and no Russians either.
A local lunch costs around 1 €.
A *** hotel room is about 25 €, and you can find hotels right on My Khe Beach.
We have a specialty: *banh xeo*—10 crepes for just 1.5 €.
You can rent motorbikes to explore the province and maybe visit the many ethnic minorities.
I live here—I’m not selling anything, but I can help if needed (my father-in-law is a traditional Vietnamese doctor and he’s very skilled).
Hi everyone! 😉
I’m Typhaine, 35 years old. Five years ago, I left France for a solo round-the-world trip—no planes, just a van, hitchhiking, cycling, and even a canoe in the Amazon! Today, I work as a naturalist guide in Argentine Patagonia.
Wherever I go, my compass stays the same: observing and photographing wildlife, which I deeply admire and respect.
My project: I’d love to share this experience through a sustainable, authentic, and immersive nature tourism initiative. But to build something meaningful, I need to understand how other nature enthusiasts experience their own adventures.
If you:
Are over 20 years old
Have a true passion for Nature
Have already taken at least one trip lasting more than 3 nights (in your country or abroad) in your life
Promise: I’m not selling anything, this isn’t marketing. Your answers are 100% anonymous and will only help me shape this wild project.
A huge thank you to everyone for your help and kindness! Looking forward to chatting in this thread 😛
(Dear admins, this is purely a collaborative effort for my project study, with no commercial purpose. Thank you so much for your support!)
Photo: Grizzly Bear (Ursus arctos horribilis), female on the left and her cub on the right. Photo taken by me in Alaska, Denali National Park.
It’s something we often notice in this forum—and many others—this behavioral shift.
A long-time member, or even a new one, asks a question.
They get one or more answers, some brief, some detailed, and then... nothing???
Not even a simple thank you!!!
From what I’ve gathered, if the answers don’t align with what they wanted to hear, it seems natural for the asker to just disappear!! 😕
Unless—(and I fear this is the case)—basic politeness is no longer part of our society????
I spent 3 weeks in Bali last summer (+ 3 nights on Gili Meno and a day trip to Kawah Ijen in Java). So I wanted to see what ChatGPT could suggest for comparison...
Here’s the prompt I gave:
"You’re a local expert guide for Bali.
- Plan a 20-day itinerary for Bali with a side trip to Gili Meno and a day trip to Kawah Ijen in Java without staying overnight.
- I’m traveling with my wife, and I love visiting historical sites, hiking, relaxing at the beach, snorkeling, and exploring rice terraces...
- For the duration of the stay, I don’t want more than 8 places to sleep, and I’d like to stay at least 2 days at each stop to avoid unpacking too often. Except for the last night, where I’m okay with just one night near the airport.
- I prefer neighborhoods that are walkable and try to avoid typical tourist traps, though I don’t want to miss the must-see spots. So suggest a mix of iconic sites and hidden gems.
- Recommend hotels or guesthouses with a budget of 50 to 100 € per night, including breakfast. Make suggestions in areas popular with travelers, specifying the vibe (I prefer quiet), and consider safety and proximity to attractions.
- For lunch and dinner, suggest two to three restaurants that are well-rated by customers.
- Give me a day-by-day program with details on travel times, visiting times for each point of interest, and recommendations for transportation (taxi, train, bike, etc.).
Estimate the total cost of the trip, including accommodations, food, transportation, and activities, and suggest two tips for saving money in each category.
- Don’t make anything up—be realistic about travel times, take into account the opening dates and hours of sites, and give me the entry fees for places to visit.
- Ask me all the questions until you’re 95% sure you understand what’s being asked. Don’t generate your response until you’ve understood."
The AI asked for a few clarifications:
"Great request—I can build you a really optimized and enjoyable itinerary, but to be 95% sure I hit the mark, I need a few key clarifications (this will really influence the pace, areas, and accommodations)."
In the end, it proposed a program very close to what we actually did.
I’ll skip its accommodation and restaurant suggestions...
Its proposal:
"Ubud (4 nights) => we did 5 nights
Sidemen (2 nights)
Amed (3 nights) => we’d planned 2 nights
Gili Meno (3 nights) => we did Gili between Sidemen and Amed
Munduk (3 nights) => we did 2 nights before Pemuteran
Pemuteran (3 nights) with Ijen => we did 4 nights
Sanur (2 nights + 1 last night) => we chose Jatiluwih instead of Sanur
It suggested "activities" (and accommodations too):
IN UBUD:
- Walk around central Ubud (1–2h)
- Campuhan Ridge Walk
- Tegalalang Rice Terrace
- Tirta Empul
- Gunung Kawi
- Massage / market / slow café
IN SIDEMEN:
- Rice terrace hike (2–3h)
- Cooking class
IN AMED:
- Snorkeling
- Japanese Shipwreck
- Beach + relaxation
- Volcano sunset
ON GILI:
- Snorkeling at Gili Meno Turtle Point, Nest Underwater Statues
IN MUNDUK:
- Jungle & waterfall hike - Munduk Waterfall + Melanting Waterfall
- Loop: 3–4h (perfect for your level)
- Ulun Danu Bratan Temple
- Twin Lakes
IN PEMUTERAN
- Snorkeling: Menjangan Island
For Kawah Ijen, it detailed the day well:
👍 from Pemuteran = best possible option
12 PM: leave hotel (we left at 10 PM)
1 PM: ferry
3 PM: arrival in Java + transfer
11 PM: start ascent
2 AM–6 AM: volcano
Return to Bali around 11 AM–12 PM (we got back at 4 PM)
👍 still very intense, but doable with an agency
💰 ~80–120 €/person all-inclusive
IN SANUR:
- Relaxation
- Quiet beach
- Proximity to airport (30 min)"
I’ve kept the habit of blowing my nose in the sink and then washing my hands—a custom I picked up in India. Sometimes, non-travelers are shocked when they catch me in the act... 🤪
Also, when I run out of toilet paper, it doesn’t bother me—unless I’ve got company over... 🤪
Just got back from walking a friend’s dog (while they’re on vacation), wearing a djellaba and Tibetan boots... 😏😏😏 Oh, for sure, if I’d run into locals, I probably would’ve shocked them? 😏
Anyway, as long as I’m not spitting on the floor at a restaurant or squatting on the side of a highway with a water bottle in hand...
After taking a little trip around the world, I came back a few months ago with an idea in mind.
I mostly do diving, and I love observing animals in their natural habitat without disturbing them.
During the trip, I realized it was quite complicated to know where and when to see certain species.
For example:
where to dive with sharks or manta rays
where you might get a chance to swim with whales
I even discovered thresher sharks during my trip… I didn’t even know this species existed before, even though they’re incredible to see.
We spent a ton of time searching for info all over the place, especially on social media, without ever getting a clear picture.
So I started putting all this together on my own, in the form of a map, to make it easier to visualize where to go depending on the seasons.
I recently put a first version online (it’s called Fauneya).
There are probably mistakes, inconsistencies, or things to improve, and that’s partly why I’m posting here.
I’d really love to know how you all go about planning this kind of trip.
As part of my Master’s thesis, I’m currently conducting a public survey on a topic that concerns all of us when planning a trip: artificial intelligence and the role of human contact in travel planning.
These days, we’re using more and more digital tools to find ideas, compare options, and book trips... but is the role of human advisors still essential? At what moments? And for what types of trips?
The survey is anonymous and takes about 7 minutes.
It’s aimed at anyone who travels (or has traveled) for leisure, whether you plan everything yourself or go through an agency.
While browsing the forum to gather info for my upcoming trip to Thailand, I often see the terms "traveler," "great traveler," and also "tourist"—so what’s the nuance for you?
I've traveled quite a bit in Vietnam over the past few years—from the southern delta to bustling cities and even some small islands—but what really sticks with me is the north, the high mountains.
Up there, there's something different—maybe slower, more raw. The morning markets with ethnic groups, women in traditional clothes, the colors...
The stilt houses, kids following you and laughing for no reason, the terraced rice fields—it almost feels unreal at times, so vast and quiet, yet so human and simple.
You often hear that Sapa has become too touristy, and that's partly true, especially in the center. But as soon as you move a little farther away, everything changes quickly. The landscapes open up, encounters feel more natural, and you rediscover something truly authentic.
I think it's that contrast that struck me—the difference between what you imagine before going and what you actually discover when you take the time.
And you—what memory do you hold onto from Vietnam? A particular place that touched you more than others?
Hello,
We’re finalizing the plans for our upcoming trip to China in May 2025. The second-to-last stop will be in Zhangjiajie, where we’ve planned to stay for 2 full days before heading to Shanghai.
We’re traveling solo using local transport and have arranged to stay in the city of Zhangjiajie.
We’ve seen that there’s a lot to see:
Tianmen Mountain, the Grand Canyon and the glass bridge, Zhangjiajie National Park, and that the sites are quite far apart with fairly expensive entry fees.
We’re thinking of dedicating one day to the national park and the Grand Canyon (glass bridge) and one day to Tianmen Mountain.
But we’re not sure if this plan is realistic—any thoughts would be much appreciated!
I should be serving a warming drink to the participants in the discussion about gardens and parks that provide us with beautiful photos, I could mention the delicious buttery scent wafting from bakeries in the thread about returning to France, but my heart, its powerful pulse that nourishes my entire being, is elsewhere.
Dasht-e Lut, Yazd, Esfahan, Bam, Kerman, Qeshm, Hormuz—a melody, a prayer at the heart of desire.
A dream, an unattainable fantasy? No. Not anymore.
A very serious Italian travel agency is organizing this trip for 6 people this winter. I’m signed up, I’m going, I’m living. Maybe.
"But you’re completely crazy!!!!"
I know... I know that every civilization, every society has a vital need to create scapegoats to define and justify itself, pathetically. And Iran is one of them, top of the list. I laugh or sigh, and it doesn’t bother me.
But that unchanging red, deep red and garnet, so beautiful in itself, in all the Western chancelleries repeats, whispers, shouts: don’t go, don’t go, don’t go, you’re putting yourself in danger and we can’t do anything for you. You’ll be turned into mere bargaining chips, into arguments for endless negotiations. Fear must be instilled, its power absolutely preserved, no concessions made to the enemy. The information (how many French hostages, real or fake, compared to the number of travelers?) is always lacking.
Traveling becomes a merciless confrontation between desire, the vital pulse, and anxiety, its ghosts.
Hi everyone, here’s our itinerary. Arriving on the evening of December 13th. Departing on January 7th.
Thanks in advance for your tips and valuable feedback.
Manila – 1 night
Coron – 4 nights
Coron to El Nido cruise – 2 nights
El Nido – 4 nights
Port Barton – 5 nights
Flight from Puerto Princesa to Vigan
Vigan – 2 nights
Sagada – 2 nights
Banaue – 2 nights
Bagabag – 1 night
Manila – 1 night
I’ve only booked the flight to Manila and the Manila/Coron flight so far. Is it possible to book boat trips, accommodations, and the Puerto Princesa flight last-minute?
Really disappointed with Costa Rica! Pura vida? The scam of the century!
(Costa Rica pure emptiness).
The country where animals are free and people are in cages.
3 weeks in December in this country and never again. Imagine the trailer of a movie that seems interesting, and when you go see it, you realize it’s a flop and the best moments were in the trailer.
Well, that’s exactly how we felt with Costa Rica pure emptiness.
My wife and I have traveled quite a bit and didn’t expect to be so wrong about a place.
On the main routes, we visited:
San José
Alajuela
Limón, Cahuita, Puerto Viejo, Manzanillo (Caribbean side)
Jaco, Quepos, Manuel Antonio (Pacific side)
And a few short stops in intermediate towns.
Our dissatisfaction grew gradually like this:
When we arrived at the hotel, the taxi dropped us off on a small street in front of a white metal gate with ground-floor windows barred. We looked at it skeptically, but the sign matched.
He approached the gate, rang the bell, the buzzer sounded, and the door opened slightly. The hotel wasn’t bad for the price, a 10-minute walk from downtown, but with a "Fleury-Mérogis" vibe guaranteed.
So far, so good.
After showering and regaining our bearings, we headed downtown.
What started to unsettle us on the way was seeing houses with bars on the ground-floor windows and even on the second floor.
At first, we thought the hotel’s neighborhood wasn’t great.
Downtown San José:
It’s a generic city, not very exotic, with a pedestrian street and a small mercado where you can eat local food without frills. Very few tourists—if any—which let you blend in with the locals. We had lunch and struggled to make ourselves understood because, aside from one or two shops, English wasn’t spoken.
On the way back to the hotel, we took a different route, and while chatting and strolling, my wife pointed out a beautiful two-story white house completely barricaded like Fort Knox.
From that moment, we started noticing the facades of houses and buildings, and wow, it was creepy—most looked like prisons, some even with barbed wire.
Though put off, we told ourselves it was probably a big-city thing and the rest of the country couldn’t be like this.
So far, so good.
We relaxed at the hotel and had a drink at the bar. Night falls early, around 5:30 PM. By 7:30 PM, we headed back downtown for dinner. A bit unsettling for a capital—downtown was almost deserted, and aside from fast-food chains, very few restaurants were open, with hardly anyone on the streets.
Bars with security guards out front.
I won’t say we felt unsafe that night, but once it got dark, we realized the bars on the windows weren’t for nothing. First day in, and our impression was already mixed.
The next day, we explored the city and surroundings, and our feelings didn’t change.
So far, so good.
Off to Cahuita by bus—4 hours of travel.
The landscapes are very green but quickly become monotonous. The road runs alongside the forest and passes through a few towns and villages, and even in the countryside, there were just as many prison-like houses.
The bus dropped us off at Cahuita’s terminal station—only four of us got off. It’s a village, or rather, a small town. Cahuita is basically one straight road and a perpendicular one, and honestly, doubt started to creep in.
A few restaurants that add 13% tax and 10% service charge—so 23% extra. We dropped our stuff at the hotel and went to explore. In 20 minutes, we’d seen it all. We had lunch and planned to check out the famous park.
Entry is by donation—well, the "entry" is a joke. There’s a path along the forest by the sea, and that’s it.
Nothing’s going right anymore.
We thought it was a total scam, but since we hadn’t gone far, we decided to come back the next day to explore further.
We returned to the hotel, relaxed, and around 8:00 PM, we went out for dinner. Only two restaurants were open, and the streets were deserted.
Creepy!
The next day, we explored the so-called park more thoroughly and really got it.
A path along the forest by the sea—2 hours there and 2 hours back, where you see animals that feel like showing their faces.
A total joke—"all that for this?"
The beach was full of wood debris and coconut husks. We wondered if the photos online were edited because the sea, very rough, wasn’t the azure blue we’d seen in pictures.
But calling this a park is a joke—it’s like a new concept.
When we thought about the reviews online, we started to suspect that professionals with interests in the country were monitoring and countering any negative feedback that could harm their business.
Too bad we didn’t check the negative reviews beforehand—we did while we were there, and it helped. We wondered if we’d become too demanding after all our travels, but no—when something’s bad, it’s bad.
Manuel Antonio’s park is even more ridiculous—there’s a short path along the sea for about 500 meters, and then nothing. You have to climb through mud and hack your way through the forest. We ended up barefoot because the mud was up to our calves. All that to see a raccoon and a few parrots flying overhead.
We didn’t expect Noah’s Ark, but we’ve seen more animals in Bali, Mexico, and Thailand while visiting temples or just walking around than in these so-called parks!
Puerto Viejo, not far from Cahuita and supposedly livelier—well, it couldn’t be worse!
According to Lonely Planet, it had a Caribbean vibe and wild nights, but maybe that was a long time ago. The good reggae music playing everywhere isn’t enough.
In the evening, Puerto Viejo was a bit livelier than Cahuita, but that’s not saying much. Very few tourists—if any—no night market, just two or three shops open selling $20 T-shirts. Same vibe as San José.
No big deal—we enjoyed the beach and the sun, which was reliable.
Our itinerary was supposed to include Tortuguero Park, but after talking to other travelers who’d just been, we changed our minds, knowing we’d be visiting Manuel Antonio Park on the Pacific side.
To get back to the Pacific side, you have to take the bus and go through San José again—5 hours this time—then switch bus terminals and another 4.5 hours to Quepos.
A stopover town to get to Manuel Antonio’s beach and park!
A town just like the others we’d seen—deserted as soon as the sun sets, and not exactly bustling during the day either. (Where are all the tourists?)
Still as many bars on the windows and that feeling of being in the wrong place.
7 km later: Manuel Antonio beach and park.
The beach is very beautiful and quite large, but don’t expect turquoise blue water—the waves stir up the sand, giving the water a brownish color.
Along the beach, shops and restaurants for about 300 meters, and then nothing. At night, after sunset, the town shuts down too.
Manuel Antonio Park is highly praised for its wildlife, so we were eager to see it. When you express dissatisfaction with Cahuita or Manzanillo parks, the response is always, "But you should’ve gone to Monteverde or Manuel Antonio!" No matter what you do or say, they’ll tell you, "You should’ve gone there or here."
Back to our famous park—entry was about $16, and contrary to what we’d heard, it wasn’t crowded!
Guides at the entrance with spotting scopes offered their services for about $30.
The park: a mix of boardwalk and dirt paths through the forest, sometimes running alongside beautiful coves and beaches.
As soon as we entered, a crowd was taking photos of a deer eating leaves.
A little further on, a guide with a group of five stopped. The guide raised his arm and set up his spotting scope! He showed them, about 100 meters away, a hummingbird perched on a branch. Some, looking through the scope, exclaimed, "Oh my God! Amazing! Incredible!"
For a moment, we thought they’d discovered a unicorn or were in Jurassic Park and had just crossed paths with a T-Rex!
The concept is comical—looking at a bird or another animal through a spotting scope because it’s too far away. Isn’t that what TV is for?
For our part, we saw monkeys, ants, an armadillo, an iguana, and the backside of a sloth climbing a tree. Amazing, incredible!
We stayed a few days in Manuel Antonio to enjoy the beach, changing hotels often because prices varied wildly from one day to the next for shameful services. On top of that, they’d quote a price in dollars and convert it at their discretion—thieves!
Alajuela, a city near the airport, has a two-story mall and a local market downtown! No interest except its proximity to the airport.
What we liked:
The climate and, in hindsight, San José—the most authentic city we visited.
What we didn’t like, in addition to what we’ve already mentioned:
Costa Ricans aren’t very friendly or communicative. English is barely spoken, not even by doctors at Quepos Hospital, where my wife ended up with food poisoning (thanks, Google Translate). The widespread obesity among Costa Ricans, who eat like Americans. The insecurity. The eco-hipsters who leave their $150 lodges in minivans with guides to visit parks and other sites, then return to barricade themselves in their fortresses at nightfall (oh my God, amazing, incredible). The blue signs at the entrance of towns that accept this payment method: "We accept American Express." Parking lots that become paid just because a guy is watching your car. Prices displayed in dollars. The cost of living (hotels, restaurants, taxes). Landscapes that are too green and not flowery enough. Beaches—nothing exceptional. Pollution in cities where big American trucks rule. Sewage dumped directly into the sea. Aside from the jungle, there’s nothing to visit—no ruins, monuments, or anything worth seeing.
In short, my wife and I think the hype about this supposedly eco-friendly country is overrated. It’s just the trendy destination of the moment. There are much better, cheaper, and more authentic places.
In hindsight, we keep the good memories and our beautiful photos, but if we had to do it over...
Before signing off, a little message to those who don’t like hearing opinions different from theirs:
Well, some things aren’t up for debate. And to those who’d have us believe that in 3 weeks, we don’t have the right to criticize a country or express our feelings—how can you praise it in so little time? What a scam. Costa Rica is a money pit. Pura vida? Pure cosmic emptiness.
If you like spending your evenings barricaded in your cozy hotel after dark, this country is for you.
For everyone else: run!
Hello,
Since the war between Russia and Ukraine, nothing is simple anymore for traveling to Belarus due to sanctions.
No more direct flights from the EU to Minsk.
Driving is a huge hassle, especially crossing through Poland at the only open border in Brest—you can wait 2, 3, or even 4 days just to get through by car.
The least painful driving option is to come via Lithuania and cross at the only open border, with a minimum wait time of 8 hours, sometimes up to 20 hours or more!!
Controls are very strict and annoying on both the Lithuanian and Belarusian sides. Avoid bringing alcohol, food, or cigarettes—everything will end up in the trash, especially when leaving Belarus for Vilnius, where the Lithuanians are tough, even with EU citizens.
The joy I once knew when visiting my wife in Minsk is sadly over—it’s now a real ordeal.
The fastest solution is to fly. My wife travels to France by taking a bus to Kaunas in Lithuania, where you can catch a flight (though not daily) to Paris Beauvais or Charleroi in Belgium with Ryanair, for example.
For the return trip, it’s the same: a flight to Kaunas and then a direct bus from the airport to Minsk.
The bus crossing is quicker than driving—the 250 km journey, including border checks, takes about 6 to 8 hours for buses leaving Lithuania around midnight, but controls are still strict at the border.
The biggest challenge is finding flight schedules that align with the bus routes between the two countries, given the unpredictable border crossing times.
Now, my wife travels via Charleroi in Belgium (near Brussels), and you can take a train to Paris. Alternatively, you can fly into Beauvais and take a bus to Paris (Porte Maillot).
For those driving, note that EU insurance and assistance policies no longer work in Belarus or Russia. You’ll need to get local insurance, usually limited to third-party liability (I don’t think full coverage exists?), as well as mandatory medical insurance. This is available at the border.
You now have to pay highway tolls—no more BELTOLL boxes. Instead, you pay a flat fee for the duration of your stay. Stop at the first gas station after crossing from Lithuania to fill up on fuel and cigarettes.
From what I know, Lithuania bans carrying more than 60 € in cash, but there’s no limit for USD (though it’s capped at $10,000??).
With a Visa card, you can now withdraw 1,000 rubles per week (about 270 €)—two months ago, it was only 500 rubles!!
For now, you can still pay by card in shops and gas stations.
However, major retailers like KORONA (which may be Russian-owned??) no longer accept foreign Visa cards.
Unfortunately, the additional sanctions announced by the U.S. on August 5, 2025, against Russia—and possibly Belarus—aren’t promising for the future.
After 20 years of visiting Belarus, I’m truly saddened to see the joy of living in this country with my wonderful wife turn into such a bleak situation, all because of human folly.
Hi everyone!
I’m putting together our travel itinerary for Veneto at the end of April. And the more I look and research potential sites to visit, the more I find!
We’ll only be there for a week—my family and I—including 3 days in Venice. So we have to make some choices...
I plan to rent a car when we arrive in Venice and head straight to Bergamo, which would be our first stop. We’d leave the car at the airport when we return to Venice so we can explore the city at our leisure.
What do you think:
1 night in Bergamo (a 2h15 drive from Venice airport),
1 night in Garda,
1 night in Verona,
1 in Padua, and
3 in Venice—would that be doable?
Thanks in advance for your tips and experiences! :)
Now that the curtain has fallen on the past year, it’s time to see what’s happening around here.
It seems pretty quiet, but I’ll read more in detail later.
First, I need to tell you all an anecdote.
My eldest little girl, in her third year of law school, was really scared she wouldn’t pass the year.
I told her:
“Trust yourself, you’ve worked so hard, and worst case, if you fail, you’ll just redo the year.”
“But I don’t think I’ll make it—they changed the rules, and if I mess up even one unit, I have to start all over.”
I knew her grades weren’t exactly stellar, and with what I was about to say, I wasn’t taking much of a risk.
“Here’s the deal, sweetheart: if you pass, I promise I’ll take you to India, just the two of us.”
I have to admit, India is a country I’ve talked about so much to all my grandchildren that in their minds, it’s become a magical, mythical place (hmm).
July had barely begun when my phone rang, her name flashing on the screen.
“Mamido, I did it!”
My promise came rushing back—oh no, oh no, oh no!
“Congratulations, sweetheart!”
A little shyly, she said:
“Is the India trip still on?”
And me, replying:
“Of course it is!”
And that’s that—a promise is a promise, or you risk losing that precious trust that keeps hearts warm and at peace.
We’re leaving in February. Only 8 days—yikes, the carbon footprint!
But we can’t miss her tutorials, or she’ll be kicked out.
Personally, that works just fine for me.
Going to India has become a challenge for me. It’s far, it’s exhausting, I sweat, I hate mosquitoes, the spices bother my mouth when I used to love them. There’s noise all the time—at night, the dogs bark nonstop, and we almost get run over. I’ll get lost in the streets because my sense of direction has vanished. I don’t like rice anymore. All that chaos and those cultural differences that once enchanted me now just overwhelm me.
But I promised.
The upside—and it’s a big one—Raman, the same driver I’ve had forever, will be at the airport with a sign with our names. We’ll stop at the same little shop for chai (or tea, plain and simple) with that aroma that intoxicates me, halfway through the trip.
It’ll be a tiny trip—staying with friends, I’ll show her a few places I love: Chidambaram, Mamallapuram, and the clinic where I worked. Then we’ll head back.
My little girl will go home to her parents.
As for me, I’ll leave right away for our Scottish island with Homme for our chilly winter.
How can you love a country so much you want to live there, then suddenly reject it, no longer able to appreciate what once made it special?
That’s the mystery of love, I guess.
I’ve visited the U.S. four times myself, including two long road trips. The last one was just this past August...
I won’t be going back. I already felt guilty last August, but recent policies have finally convinced me: the humiliation of Zelensky, authoritarian excesses, Gestapo-like methods for detaining people of foreign origin, the murder of innocent people (a mother shot dead), corruption, insane "tariffs," skyrocketing healthcare costs for Americans, the abduction of foreign figures to secure oil, the requirement to disclose social media accounts, and now... threats and blackmail to forcibly take Greenland—a region that belongs to Denmark and thus the European Union!
The reality is that simply posting this could get me denied entry to the U.S.!
In this context, I just can’t keep spending money there. I loved my trips, but there are so many other countries with stunning landscapes to explore.
So I get why you’d want to travel there. I did, and I loved it. But once a country no longer respects any of the values that made us love it, why go?
How can we even consider traveling to a country that threatens to take one of our territories by force?
Hello everyone,
Controversial topic? Not necessarily—maybe just a reflection on a world to come.
I spent the last 15 days of August on a cruise in Greenland, from Kangerlussuaq to Tasiilaq.
I was utterly amazed by this unique world of rock and ice, the little houses in every color, a simple life that’s also complicated by isolation and climate, among other things...
I carry in my heart the kindness of the people I met, the raw and gentle majesty of the icebergs, the colors of the sky...
So, I can’t even imagine a massive presence of raw material prospectors, heavy machinery requiring roads to be built—if that’s even possible—changing their way of life... putting sled dogs out to pasture!
Do fast food and Greenland’s northern lights really mix?
I wouldn’t trade my memories for an ESTA!
All opinions are respectable, which is why this isn’t a controversy—but I’m sorry, I have a soft spot for *my* Greenland.
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