Results for "Breda+|+9+>+223"
536 results found.
Obtention du visa pour l'Inde par correspondance: chèque de banque exigé English translation pending
Bonjour les voyageurs
Je profite de quelques jours de repos pour réapparaître sur le forum, ce que j'ai hélas trop rarement le temps de faire en temps ordinaire.
D'abord, je tiens à vous remercier tous pour le bon esprit et l'entraide solidaire qui règne sur ce forum ainsi que pour la qualité des informations données. J'en ai d'ailleurs profité moi-même avec bonheur courant mars pour préparer ma première "itinerrance" en Inde. Je trouve çe forum super, je vous trouve super... Grand, grand merci à Phil 64, Deedou, Jaisalmer, Chinois, Parvat et beaucoup d'autres aussi pour leurs précieuses indications.
À mon tour, je vais vous glisser des infos en répondant par ailleurs à divers messages.
Ayant du coup totalement succombé aux charmes envoûtants de l'Inde lors de ce premier périple (Rajasthan, Gujerat en particulier), j'ai décidé, pour fêter ma 40ème année de voyage (eh oui!) de m'offrir un second voyage en octobre, cette fois avec Varanasi et le Sikkim pour priorité.
C'est à partir de cette perspective que je m'en viens vous donner une information concernant les visas. Pour alerter ceux qui sont en partance.
En début d'année, les visas demandés par correspondance pouvaient être réglés par chèque bancaire ordinaire. En allant sur le site de l'ambassade le 21 août, je constatai alors que l'Ambassade réclamait désormais des chèques certifiés (admettons, ça peut se comprendre). M'apprêtant à faire partir ma demande, je suis repassé avant-hier sur le dit site et là, stupeur, je notai qu'il était désormais exigé des chèques de banque. Là, je trouve que pousse un peu... En conséquence, si le chèque certifié est gratuit, le chèque de banque ne l'est pas et c'est, dans ma banque par exemple, un surcoût de frais bancaires de 15 euros qui vient du coup s'ajouter aux 56 euros du coût du visa.
M'enfin ! On n'a pas le choix... En tout cas, si vous avez un visa à demander et des informations de plus d'une semaine à ce sujet, rectifiez vite le tir et filez négocier avec votre banquier.
SemL2vent
Je profite de quelques jours de repos pour réapparaître sur le forum, ce que j'ai hélas trop rarement le temps de faire en temps ordinaire.
D'abord, je tiens à vous remercier tous pour le bon esprit et l'entraide solidaire qui règne sur ce forum ainsi que pour la qualité des informations données. J'en ai d'ailleurs profité moi-même avec bonheur courant mars pour préparer ma première "itinerrance" en Inde. Je trouve çe forum super, je vous trouve super... Grand, grand merci à Phil 64, Deedou, Jaisalmer, Chinois, Parvat et beaucoup d'autres aussi pour leurs précieuses indications.
À mon tour, je vais vous glisser des infos en répondant par ailleurs à divers messages.
Ayant du coup totalement succombé aux charmes envoûtants de l'Inde lors de ce premier périple (Rajasthan, Gujerat en particulier), j'ai décidé, pour fêter ma 40ème année de voyage (eh oui!) de m'offrir un second voyage en octobre, cette fois avec Varanasi et le Sikkim pour priorité.
C'est à partir de cette perspective que je m'en viens vous donner une information concernant les visas. Pour alerter ceux qui sont en partance.
En début d'année, les visas demandés par correspondance pouvaient être réglés par chèque bancaire ordinaire. En allant sur le site de l'ambassade le 21 août, je constatai alors que l'Ambassade réclamait désormais des chèques certifiés (admettons, ça peut se comprendre). M'apprêtant à faire partir ma demande, je suis repassé avant-hier sur le dit site et là, stupeur, je notai qu'il était désormais exigé des chèques de banque. Là, je trouve que pousse un peu... En conséquence, si le chèque certifié est gratuit, le chèque de banque ne l'est pas et c'est, dans ma banque par exemple, un surcoût de frais bancaires de 15 euros qui vient du coup s'ajouter aux 56 euros du coût du visa.
M'enfin ! On n'a pas le choix... En tout cas, si vous avez un visa à demander et des informations de plus d'une semaine à ce sujet, rectifiez vite le tir et filez négocier avec votre banquier.
SemL2vent
Pas de frais pour les paiements et retraits par carte bleue en Islande English translation pending
ce message juste pour vous informer que contrairement à ce que j'ai vu sur pas mal de forum, il n'y a pas de frais pour des paiements et retraits d'argent en Islande par CB eurocard ou visa. en effet l'islande fait parti de la zone euro sans être pour autant à l'euro. c'est le même cas qu'avec la norvège et la suède. deplus il m'a été possible de commander les couronnes islandaises en 12 jours par ma banque alors qu'il était dit que cela était très difficile. les temps changent quoi.
Recherche un boulanger-pâtissier désireux de s'installer en Inde English translation pending
....et pas n'importe où! A Bangalore dans le Sud de l'Inde.
C'est un appel de détresse...😮
Depuis plusieurs semaines je rêve de croissants au beurre, de pains au chocolat, de chaussons au pomme, d'éclairs au chocolat, de profiteroles, de pain au levain, de frangipane, de millefeuilles ou de flan.
Il n'existe aucun boulanger-pâtissier digne de ce nom dans cette ville de plus de 6 millions d'habitants. La population de cette ville est très cosmopolite et la demande est considérable! Le succès d'une nouvelle installation serait garanti. Je paierai de ma personne pour que cette installation réussisse... Boulangers, boulangères, pâtissiers, pâtissières de France et de Navarre, chocolatiers, chocolatières de Belgique ou de Suisse.....répondez-moi!🤪
C'est un appel de détresse...😮
Depuis plusieurs semaines je rêve de croissants au beurre, de pains au chocolat, de chaussons au pomme, d'éclairs au chocolat, de profiteroles, de pain au levain, de frangipane, de millefeuilles ou de flan.
Il n'existe aucun boulanger-pâtissier digne de ce nom dans cette ville de plus de 6 millions d'habitants. La population de cette ville est très cosmopolite et la demande est considérable! Le succès d'une nouvelle installation serait garanti. Je paierai de ma personne pour que cette installation réussisse... Boulangers, boulangères, pâtissiers, pâtissières de France et de Navarre, chocolatiers, chocolatières de Belgique ou de Suisse.....répondez-moi!🤪
L'Aquitaine au mois de mars (France) English translation pending
Bonjour,
Je prévois aller faire un tour en Aquitaine et peut-être en Espagne également durant le mois de mars.
Je me demandais si la région était intéressante durant cette période de l'année. Si les auberges de jeunesse sont ouvertes s'il y a beaucoup de touristes qui prisent la région durant ce mois et peut-être qu'elles sont les villes les plus intéressantes à faire mise à part Bordeaux...
Tout commentaires sont les bienvenus
Merci à l'avance
Prêt â déménager dans le sud: République Dominicaine? English translation pending
Salut a tous, je suis a un stade de changement dans ma vie et j'ai décidé de partir dans le sud ( Travail, logi, transport ) j'ai une petite idée de la place ( Rep Dom ) mais il me faut plus d'info. Alors si vous avez des Hits ou des contacts j'apprecierais en espérant vous rendre le service sur d'autre sujet ! :)
Vivre à Pondichéry (Inde) English translation pending
J'aimerai vivre un an à Pondichéry avec mes deux enfants de 14 et 18 ans.Je ne connais pas l'Inde et toutes vos remarques ou expèriences sont les bienvenues.
Hôtel pas cher à Milan English translation pending
Bonjour,
nous sommes un couple de Québécois qui désirons aller à Milan à la 1ere semaine de mai 2006. Comme notre budget est limité, est-ce que quelqu'un aurait de bonnes adresses d'hotel/auberge de jeunesse à nous refiler? Et qu'y a t'il d'intéressant à visiter?
Également, si nous partons de Paris, quel cie aérienne conseillez-vous pas cher?
Merci!
Sanquebec 🙂
nous sommes un couple de Québécois qui désirons aller à Milan à la 1ere semaine de mai 2006. Comme notre budget est limité, est-ce que quelqu'un aurait de bonnes adresses d'hotel/auberge de jeunesse à nous refiler? Et qu'y a t'il d'intéressant à visiter?
Également, si nous partons de Paris, quel cie aérienne conseillez-vous pas cher?
Merci!
Sanquebec 🙂
Coût de la vie aux Etats-Unis, colocation à Los Angeles English translation pending
Bonjour à toutes et à Tous !
C'est ma toute première fois sur ce forum, j'espère y revenir trés souvent. Et si je me suis inscrit, c'est parce que je projete de partir à l'étranger d'ici peu. Pour m'y installler, y vivre. Voilà, alors j'aimerais trouver une colocation aux USA, à Los Angeles même, avoir les avis des personnes qui y vivent, la mentalité des gens aux USA, le travail sur place, le logement (j'ai vu qu'il était trés cher), tout ça. En clair, des renseignement sur la vie de tout les jours aux USA.. et aussi, savoir comment ça se passe pour les papiers administratif. J'ai déja fait des recherches, mais j'ai l'impression que c'est trés compliqué l'immigration là bas.
merci d'avance ++
C'est ma toute première fois sur ce forum, j'espère y revenir trés souvent. Et si je me suis inscrit, c'est parce que je projete de partir à l'étranger d'ici peu. Pour m'y installler, y vivre. Voilà, alors j'aimerais trouver une colocation aux USA, à Los Angeles même, avoir les avis des personnes qui y vivent, la mentalité des gens aux USA, le travail sur place, le logement (j'ai vu qu'il était trés cher), tout ça. En clair, des renseignement sur la vie de tout les jours aux USA.. et aussi, savoir comment ça se passe pour les papiers administratif. J'ai déja fait des recherches, mais j'ai l'impression que c'est trés compliqué l'immigration là bas.
merci d'avance ++
Devises pour la Thaïlande English translation pending
Salut à tous les furieux internautes nomades du moment(ou pas d'ailleurs)! Je bouge en Thailande aujourd'hui et aimerai savoir si actuellement(j'ai eu des infos contradictoires!) c'est mieux d'emmener dans sa besace des dollars ou euros pour la Thailande. Bon vent à tous
Vaut-il mieux changer des euros en France ou aux Etats-Unis? English translation pending
vaut-il mieux changer des euros en france ou aux Etats-Unis?
je pars mercredi, ça serait sympa de me conseiller...Idem pour louer une voiture, est-ce mieux sur place ou par internet? bonne journée à tous de toute façon🙂
AIR AUSTRAL: Chronique d'une mort annoncée? English translation pending
Depuis quelque temps il y a beaucoup de remous autour de la recomposition du capital d'Air Austral.
En effet, Air France se désengage de la compagnie réunionnaise (30, 36%)parce qu'ils sont en désaccord avec la stratégie de d��veloppement de UU de la concurrence sur la ligne Paris-Réunion.
En 2 mots AIR FRANCE s'est bai.... par Air Austral. Et AF n'aime pas se faire bai... Alors qu'en cela arrive par UU, qu'Air France soutenait, je ne vous fait pas dire.
Si Air France se désengage c pour mieux contrer les strateges fait par UU (notamment la mise en service d'un 3eme 777-200 en juin). Beaucoup s'y sont essayer (AOM, Air Liberté, Air Lib, Air Bourbon....).
Air France veux etre le Maître du monde (il est déjà bien partie), et pour cela aucun n'obstacle ne doit se trouver sur chemin, sinon......🙁
A mon avis Air France va lui faire sa faite a Air Austral. Elle va vite regretter. Ils auraient du rester a leur place (marché régional).
Et pour ceux qui n'ont pas arreté de critiquer le 747-400 de Corsair, préparer vous. Parce qu'a mon avis vous en aurez besoin après.🙂
En effet, Air France se désengage de la compagnie réunionnaise (30, 36%)parce qu'ils sont en désaccord avec la stratégie de d��veloppement de UU de la concurrence sur la ligne Paris-Réunion.
En 2 mots AIR FRANCE s'est bai.... par Air Austral. Et AF n'aime pas se faire bai... Alors qu'en cela arrive par UU, qu'Air France soutenait, je ne vous fait pas dire.
Si Air France se désengage c pour mieux contrer les strateges fait par UU (notamment la mise en service d'un 3eme 777-200 en juin). Beaucoup s'y sont essayer (AOM, Air Liberté, Air Lib, Air Bourbon....).
Air France veux etre le Maître du monde (il est déjà bien partie), et pour cela aucun n'obstacle ne doit se trouver sur chemin, sinon......🙁
A mon avis Air France va lui faire sa faite a Air Austral. Elle va vite regretter. Ils auraient du rester a leur place (marché régional).
Et pour ceux qui n'ont pas arreté de critiquer le 747-400 de Corsair, préparer vous. Parce qu'a mon avis vous en aurez besoin après.🙂
une étudiante voulant étudier et vivre au Maroc English translation pending
Bonjour,
Je suis une canadadienne et j’aimerais aller faire mes études au Maroc. Je vais finir dans 2 mois mon secondaire et j'aimerais partir cet été au Maroc et si possible y rester. Mais je ne sais pas trop comment je pourrais y arriver, alors j'ai pensé à vous. J'ai cherché sur internet des écoles, mais les résultats que j'ai obtenus ne sont pas très concluants. Comme je l'ai dis plus haut, je vais finir mon secondaire dans 2 mois et après commencer mon enseignement post-secondaire au Collège Champlais en Baccalauréa International en Commerce et Menagement. Mais à la place, j'aimerais aller étudier au Maroc. Je ne sais pas si vous pouvez m'aider, sinon, pouviez vous me référer à un autre endroit ou un autre personne.
Merci d'avance
Je suis une canadadienne et j’aimerais aller faire mes études au Maroc. Je vais finir dans 2 mois mon secondaire et j'aimerais partir cet été au Maroc et si possible y rester. Mais je ne sais pas trop comment je pourrais y arriver, alors j'ai pensé à vous. J'ai cherché sur internet des écoles, mais les résultats que j'ai obtenus ne sont pas très concluants. Comme je l'ai dis plus haut, je vais finir mon secondaire dans 2 mois et après commencer mon enseignement post-secondaire au Collège Champlais en Baccalauréa International en Commerce et Menagement. Mais à la place, j'aimerais aller étudier au Maroc. Je ne sais pas si vous pouvez m'aider, sinon, pouviez vous me référer à un autre endroit ou un autre personne.
Merci d'avance
Raw et Jpeg English translation pending
Bonjour,
C'est mon premier message sur ce forum. Comme je ne suis ni un pro de la photo, ni un pro de l'nformatique, j'aimerais que l'on m'explique quelle différence il y a entre un fichier raw et un fichier jpeg. J'utilise un canon G2, et toutes mes photos sont en jpeg. Quel est l'intérêt du raw?
C'est mon premier message sur ce forum. Comme je ne suis ni un pro de la photo, ni un pro de l'nformatique, j'aimerais que l'on m'explique quelle différence il y a entre un fichier raw et un fichier jpeg. J'utilise un canon G2, et toutes mes photos sont en jpeg. Quel est l'intérêt du raw?
Le Pain! English translation pending
Le pain. L’aliment le plus ancien de l’homme sédentarisé entré dans l’ère de l’agriculture. Une denrée vitale qui a nourri des générations d’hommes depuis des millénaires. Une diversité innombrable de ce met élémentaire, souvent anodin parfois délicieux, se décline à partir d’une recette simple, unique à base de farine, d’eau, de levure. Sa multitude infinie se décline de par sa variété de textures, de formes, de farines, d’eau, de mode de cuisson et de petits secrets jalousement transmis au fil des générations de boulangers ou de traditions familiales, tribales et culturelles.
De nos jours, en occident il s’apparente de plus en plus à du carton pâte ou à du béton ou parfois s’effrite comme du vulgaire plâtre, souvent fade, sans saveur. La société de consommation de masse est passée par là.
Il reste pourtant des artisans soucieux d’élaborer un produit de qualité. Qu’il soit au coin de votre rue ou à l’autre bout du monde, un boulanger sait encore vous combler et vous apporter la joie immense de goûter un produit simple, unique et vrai. L’harmonie conjuguée de l’odeur chaude et suave, de la croûte blonde et dorée, d’un cœur moelleux et délicat vous apporte un bonheur immense, parce que simple, naturel, essentiel, primordial. Cette palette infinie de couleurs blondes, dorées, ocres ou blanc cassé sont un plaisir pour les yeux. Cet éventail d’effluves de blé chaud, ou d’orge brûlant est une joie pour l’odorat. Cette multitude de textures craquantes et croquantes, tendre et fondante, élastique et flexible, onctueuse et souple sont un florilège pour notre palais.
Parlez nous de vos jardins secrets, de vos plaisirs inoubliables de pains d’exception dont vous vous êtes délectés afin de nous faire rêver, afin de ne pas rater ce boulanger rare qui confectionne encore un aliment simplement bon, nourrissant qui enrichira nos voyages de sensations élémentaires mais ô combien bénéfiques. 😉
Beub
De nos jours, en occident il s’apparente de plus en plus à du carton pâte ou à du béton ou parfois s’effrite comme du vulgaire plâtre, souvent fade, sans saveur. La société de consommation de masse est passée par là.
Il reste pourtant des artisans soucieux d’élaborer un produit de qualité. Qu’il soit au coin de votre rue ou à l’autre bout du monde, un boulanger sait encore vous combler et vous apporter la joie immense de goûter un produit simple, unique et vrai. L’harmonie conjuguée de l’odeur chaude et suave, de la croûte blonde et dorée, d’un cœur moelleux et délicat vous apporte un bonheur immense, parce que simple, naturel, essentiel, primordial. Cette palette infinie de couleurs blondes, dorées, ocres ou blanc cassé sont un plaisir pour les yeux. Cet éventail d’effluves de blé chaud, ou d’orge brûlant est une joie pour l’odorat. Cette multitude de textures craquantes et croquantes, tendre et fondante, élastique et flexible, onctueuse et souple sont un florilège pour notre palais.
Parlez nous de vos jardins secrets, de vos plaisirs inoubliables de pains d’exception dont vous vous êtes délectés afin de nous faire rêver, afin de ne pas rater ce boulanger rare qui confectionne encore un aliment simplement bon, nourrissant qui enrichira nos voyages de sensations élémentaires mais ô combien bénéfiques. 😉
Beub
Restaurant à Nantes English translation pending
Bonsoir,
Avec une amie, nous projetons de feter nos anniversaires respectifs dans un restaurant de spécialités étrangères à Nantes. Mais nous ne savons trop où aller. Qui parmis vous, pourrait nous donner de bonnes adresses? J'en connais certains, mais j'aimerais que ce soit l'occasion d'en découvrir de nouveaux.
Merci pour tous les bons lieux que vous pourrez me communiquer. Toutes les destinations sont les bienvenues!
Aidez nous à nous régaler 🙂..
Kénavo
Odonate
Avec une amie, nous projetons de feter nos anniversaires respectifs dans un restaurant de spécialités étrangères à Nantes. Mais nous ne savons trop où aller. Qui parmis vous, pourrait nous donner de bonnes adresses? J'en connais certains, mais j'aimerais que ce soit l'occasion d'en découvrir de nouveaux.
Merci pour tous les bons lieux que vous pourrez me communiquer. Toutes les destinations sont les bienvenues!
Aidez nous à nous régaler 🙂..
Kénavo
Odonate
Les soupes repas du monde entier English translation pending
Les soupes repas du monde entier sont une merveille en soi pour les voyageurs
Et toute l'Amérique latine en offre .
Un restos international soupe repas ferait fureur
Hôtel à Lima? English translation pending
Coucou,
Je suis en Equateur en ce moment et je pars au Perou dans 2 semaines. Si quelqu'un peut m'indiquer les coordonnees d'un hotel pas cher a Lima, ce serait sympa...
PS: l'Equateur est un pays magnifique!
Je suis en Equateur en ce moment et je pars au Perou dans 2 semaines. Si quelqu'un peut m'indiquer les coordonnees d'un hotel pas cher a Lima, ce serait sympa...
PS: l'Equateur est un pays magnifique!
Recherche infos Nagaland (Inde) English translation pending
Bien le bonjour... 🙂
Je suis en train d'effectuer un travail sur Nagaland et leur culture. Mais je viens de tomber sur ce forum magnifique et je remarque qu'apparement bon nombres de voyageurs s'y retrouvent. N'ayant put avoir la chance d'aller au Nagaland, ni même en Inde et encore moins au Myanmar (en fait, je ne suis jamais sortit de l'Europe, honte à moi 😊 !). J'épluches bouquins, films et autres documents, mais je crois qu'il serait bien plus intérréssant d'avoir des avis, des commentaires, des anecdotes etc... de personne ayant eu un contact, ou des infos, de près ou de loin avec le Nagaland.
Je vous remerçie d'avance braves gens et au plaisir...
PS: au passage, voici mon mail --> Naev_@hotmail.com
Je suis en train d'effectuer un travail sur Nagaland et leur culture. Mais je viens de tomber sur ce forum magnifique et je remarque qu'apparement bon nombres de voyageurs s'y retrouvent. N'ayant put avoir la chance d'aller au Nagaland, ni même en Inde et encore moins au Myanmar (en fait, je ne suis jamais sortit de l'Europe, honte à moi 😊 !). J'épluches bouquins, films et autres documents, mais je crois qu'il serait bien plus intérréssant d'avoir des avis, des commentaires, des anecdotes etc... de personne ayant eu un contact, ou des infos, de près ou de loin avec le Nagaland.
Je vous remerçie d'avance braves gens et au plaisir...
PS: au passage, voici mon mail --> Naev_@hotmail.com
Off on a winter adventure in the American West!
Day 1 – February 14
We all have two lives. And the second one kicks off the day you realize you only have one, with the determination to spend the time you have left on what truly adds sparkle to your life, Kevin! I like to elegantly introduce a trip with a philosophical quote. First, it gives you the illusion that I’m some kind of deep thinker, and second, it lets me fill up the first few lines of my blank page when I don’t know how to tell you I’m diving back into what really lights up my life: another adventure beyond the horizon! And nearly every other year, like a toxic relationship, my horizon tends to take shape in Uncle Sam’s backyard. And this, despite his cousin Donald calling the shots. Speaking of which, it was partly that impulsive guy who pushed us to be just as impulsive and snag our four flight tickets at a ridiculously low price—a direct result of foreign tourism taking a hit from BetaMax’s repeated antics... Four tickets? Who are the other lucky ones? In this case, our lucky ones are actually lucky ladies: My Flo, always up for exploring the world with me on foot, camelback, or scooter, is obviously in on the fun. The other two seats went to our daughters, Sasha and Luna, both thrilled to be part of this new American adventure...
But what’s the American West like in February?... A gamble. Let’s call it Russian roulette since we’re not landing during peak weather season. That’s why we encouraged our transportation and accommodation to get cozy and produce a little camper van, so we can stay ultra-flexible in the face of any weather tantrums. We’ll be roaming in Kara the van with the motto "Follow the sun!" Bad weather? We bolt. Snow? We speed up. Sunny? We act like it was the plan all along and soak it up.
"Okay, but why keep coming back to the same corner of the globe? After ten American adventures, you must be tired of seeing the same things, right?" But I’m not crazy, you know!... The American West is like making love to your gorgeous wife over and over, always enjoying it just as much. And contrary to what you might think, the American West isn’t just the Grand Canyon, Monument Valley, Las Vegas, and Bryce Canyon. Proof is, after ten trips to the U.S., my retinas are still untouched by three-quarters of the places I scribbled on a napkin for this adventure... Oh, and add to that my wife, who I’ve easily converted to my religion, and boom... relapse is even easier! Because yes, we’ve landed in Los Angeles after a sunny flight over Greenland, still under Danish flag for now. And we’re already heading east through the XXL traffic of L.A.’s eight-lane highways, eager to dive into our first discoveries. But first, night is taking over the sky, and second, we’ve been officially awake for 24 hours, so I suggest wrapping up this intro. I’ll tell you more tomorrow morning. Sound good?


We all have two lives. And the second one kicks off the day you realize you only have one, with the determination to spend the time you have left on what truly adds sparkle to your life, Kevin! I like to elegantly introduce a trip with a philosophical quote. First, it gives you the illusion that I’m some kind of deep thinker, and second, it lets me fill up the first few lines of my blank page when I don’t know how to tell you I’m diving back into what really lights up my life: another adventure beyond the horizon! And nearly every other year, like a toxic relationship, my horizon tends to take shape in Uncle Sam’s backyard. And this, despite his cousin Donald calling the shots. Speaking of which, it was partly that impulsive guy who pushed us to be just as impulsive and snag our four flight tickets at a ridiculously low price—a direct result of foreign tourism taking a hit from BetaMax’s repeated antics... Four tickets? Who are the other lucky ones? In this case, our lucky ones are actually lucky ladies: My Flo, always up for exploring the world with me on foot, camelback, or scooter, is obviously in on the fun. The other two seats went to our daughters, Sasha and Luna, both thrilled to be part of this new American adventure...
But what’s the American West like in February?... A gamble. Let’s call it Russian roulette since we’re not landing during peak weather season. That’s why we encouraged our transportation and accommodation to get cozy and produce a little camper van, so we can stay ultra-flexible in the face of any weather tantrums. We’ll be roaming in Kara the van with the motto "Follow the sun!" Bad weather? We bolt. Snow? We speed up. Sunny? We act like it was the plan all along and soak it up.
"Okay, but why keep coming back to the same corner of the globe? After ten American adventures, you must be tired of seeing the same things, right?" But I’m not crazy, you know!... The American West is like making love to your gorgeous wife over and over, always enjoying it just as much. And contrary to what you might think, the American West isn’t just the Grand Canyon, Monument Valley, Las Vegas, and Bryce Canyon. Proof is, after ten trips to the U.S., my retinas are still untouched by three-quarters of the places I scribbled on a napkin for this adventure... Oh, and add to that my wife, who I’ve easily converted to my religion, and boom... relapse is even easier! Because yes, we’ve landed in Los Angeles after a sunny flight over Greenland, still under Danish flag for now. And we’re already heading east through the XXL traffic of L.A.’s eight-lane highways, eager to dive into our first discoveries. But first, night is taking over the sky, and second, we’ve been officially awake for 24 hours, so I suggest wrapping up this intro. I’ll tell you more tomorrow morning. Sound good?


Off on an adventure in Sri Lanka
Day 1 – December 6
Our decision is our decision. And it’s firm and final. Next winter, our plane will spread its great wings toward the island of Ceylon! "Wait a minute... Ceylon... Ceylon... that name rings a bell, but I can’t quite place it on the globe Grandma gave me for Christmas! Ceylon... Oh right, I’ve got it: Ceylon is the name of my tea!" Exactly. But the name on your pretty tea box is also the one used until 1972 for this island nation, a speck on the Indian Ocean at the southern tip of the Indian subcontinent: Sri Lanka!
For this new adventure, I’m exceptionally leaving my Flo behind, cowardly replaced by a double dose of testosterone. To write the book of this journey with me, I’m bringing along my brother, who’s used to this kind of thing, and... a guest star: My model of resilience. My dad! All aboard! Or rather, all aboard our tuk-tuk! Yes, you read that right: A real tuk-tuk, a little colorful rolling box that putters along at two miles an hour. The idea? Well, Sri Lanka and its winding roads overlooking the vastness of lush nature are tailor-made for this kind of vehicle. And since it’s one of only two countries in the world that allow foreigners to rent and drive these mini speedsters, we’ll be crisscrossing the island in our two-square-meter rolling box. Plus, adopting this mode of transport is a surefire way to connect directly with the locals, who’ll surely be curious to see a foreigner driving their iconic vehicle. Not to mention the... let’s say... spicy anecdotes it might generate. I mean, heading into a subtropical zone with my jet-black dad and his unpredictable digestive flora while deliberately choosing the tuk-tuk as our *only* means of transport? That’s the winning combo for an unforgettable adventure! "More seriously, Dad, Sullivan, I’m already loving the idea of living this adventure together, the three of us—brothers and father..."
So, does the intro to this new adventure get your salivary glands going? Yes? Too bad. Because unfortunately, the program handed out by the lady at the entrance has been slightly... let’s say *crumpled*. Some might even say "scrunched up and nearly tossed in the trash." First, six days ago, as the countdown echoed in us like a call to adventure, Cyclone Ditwah grabbed Sri Lanka, played with it like a rag doll, and left it battered on the ground. The toll is devastating: over a thousand dead, thousands of homes wiped out by relentless rains, roads and railways swallowed by massive mudslides. A country wounded once again, after the civil war, the 2004 tsunami, and the post-Covid economic crisis.
But as if this weather disaster wasn’t enough to shake our unbreakable adventurer spirit, fate decided to mess with us further by cutting our trio down to two. The victim? My brother, violently turned away because of a simple date on his passport that didn’t match the border officials’ expectations. Return to sender!
So now it’s just the two of us allowed to board the Qatar Airways Airbus A380 for this trip. If he were here, Denis Brognart would say, "And in the end, only one remains!" Except I know you’ll be with us, following our adventures! Right?
Our decision is our decision. And it’s firm and final. Next winter, our plane will spread its great wings toward the island of Ceylon! "Wait a minute... Ceylon... Ceylon... that name rings a bell, but I can’t quite place it on the globe Grandma gave me for Christmas! Ceylon... Oh right, I’ve got it: Ceylon is the name of my tea!" Exactly. But the name on your pretty tea box is also the one used until 1972 for this island nation, a speck on the Indian Ocean at the southern tip of the Indian subcontinent: Sri Lanka!
For this new adventure, I’m exceptionally leaving my Flo behind, cowardly replaced by a double dose of testosterone. To write the book of this journey with me, I’m bringing along my brother, who’s used to this kind of thing, and... a guest star: My model of resilience. My dad! All aboard! Or rather, all aboard our tuk-tuk! Yes, you read that right: A real tuk-tuk, a little colorful rolling box that putters along at two miles an hour. The idea? Well, Sri Lanka and its winding roads overlooking the vastness of lush nature are tailor-made for this kind of vehicle. And since it’s one of only two countries in the world that allow foreigners to rent and drive these mini speedsters, we’ll be crisscrossing the island in our two-square-meter rolling box. Plus, adopting this mode of transport is a surefire way to connect directly with the locals, who’ll surely be curious to see a foreigner driving their iconic vehicle. Not to mention the... let’s say... spicy anecdotes it might generate. I mean, heading into a subtropical zone with my jet-black dad and his unpredictable digestive flora while deliberately choosing the tuk-tuk as our *only* means of transport? That’s the winning combo for an unforgettable adventure! "More seriously, Dad, Sullivan, I’m already loving the idea of living this adventure together, the three of us—brothers and father..."
So, does the intro to this new adventure get your salivary glands going? Yes? Too bad. Because unfortunately, the program handed out by the lady at the entrance has been slightly... let’s say *crumpled*. Some might even say "scrunched up and nearly tossed in the trash." First, six days ago, as the countdown echoed in us like a call to adventure, Cyclone Ditwah grabbed Sri Lanka, played with it like a rag doll, and left it battered on the ground. The toll is devastating: over a thousand dead, thousands of homes wiped out by relentless rains, roads and railways swallowed by massive mudslides. A country wounded once again, after the civil war, the 2004 tsunami, and the post-Covid economic crisis.
But as if this weather disaster wasn’t enough to shake our unbreakable adventurer spirit, fate decided to mess with us further by cutting our trio down to two. The victim? My brother, violently turned away because of a simple date on his passport that didn’t match the border officials’ expectations. Return to sender!
So now it’s just the two of us allowed to board the Qatar Airways Airbus A380 for this trip. If he were here, Denis Brognart would say, "And in the end, only one remains!" Except I know you’ll be with us, following our adventures! Right?
Road Trip USA 2023 - Part 2
HIGHWAY 1
Highway 1 runs along the Pacific coast of California from Leggett in the north to Dana Point in the south. It's the longest state route in California, stretching 1,050 km.
It's famous for its breathtaking ocean views. That’s actually why it’s become such a popular route for road trips, with tons of attractions and points of interest all along the way.
After crossing the U.S. interior on our way out (see Road Trip USA 2023 - Part 1), we’re starting our return trip along this route from Leggett.
Videos are embedded throughout the summary. Please click on the image to start the video. To jump to a specific post, here are the appropriate links:
CALIFORNIA:
Scenic Overlooks on Route 1 Between Leggett and Fort Bragg The Pudding Creek Trestle Bridge in Fort Bragg Glass Beach - Fort Bragg Jenner Lookout Point - Highway 1 Goat Rock Beach - Sonoma Coast State Park - Jenner Point Reyes National Seashore - White House Pool Trail Point Reyes National Seashore - Limantour Beach Point Reyes National Seashore - Point Reyes Shipwreck Point Reyes National Seashore - Kehoe Beach Trail Point Reyes National Seashore - McClures Beach Trail Point Reyes National Seashore - Cypress Tree Tunnel Point Reyes National Seashore - Point Reyes Beach North Point Reyes National Seashore - Elephant Seals on Drakes Beach Point Reyes National Seashore - Point Reyes Beach South Point Reyes National Seashore – Elephant Seals Overlooks Point Reyes National Seashore - Chimney Rock Trail Point Reyes National Seashore - Point Reyes Lighthouse Trail Point Reyes National Seashore – Tule Elk Observation Point Bonita Lighthouse Trail - Sausalito Hawk Hill - Sausalito Battery Spencer Trail - Sausalito Rodeo Beach - Sausalito Point Cavallo - Golden Gate View - Sausalito Exploring Downtown Sausalito Visiting Sausalito’s Houseboats Crossing the Golden Gate Bridge - San Francisco Golden Gate Bridge Viewpoints - San Francisco Cruise to Alcatraz Island - San Francisco Visiting Alcatraz Island - San Francisco Civic Center - Downtown San Francisco Market Street & Yerba Buena Gardens - Downtown San Francisco Union Square & Financial District - Downtown San Francisco Fisherman's Wharf, Pier 39 & Embarcadero - San Francisco Sea Lion Observation - Pier 39 - San Francisco Lombard Street & Cable Car - Russian Hill - San Francisco Macondray Lane Historic District - Russian Hill - San Francisco Grace Cathedral & Huntington Park - Nob Hill - San Francisco Telegraph Hill - San Francisco Chinatown - San Francisco Alamo Square & Painted Ladies - Western Addition - San Francisco Palace of Fine Arts - Marina District - San Francisco Presidio of San Francisco California Coastal Trail - Lincoln Park - San Francisco California Palace of the Legion of Honor - Lincoln Park - San Francisco Sutro Baths - Lincoln Park - San Francisco Queen Wilhelmina Garden - Golden Gate Park - San Francisco Bison Paddock - Golden Gate Park - San Francisco Portals of the Past - Golden Gate Park - San Francisco Strawberry Hill - Golden Gate Park – San Francisco Prayerbook Cross & Robin Williams Meadow - Golden Gate Park - San Francisco Hidden Garden Steps & 16th Avenue Tiled Steps - San Francisco Grandview Park - San Francisco Hike - Twin Peaks Three Summits - San Francisco Longboarding Down Twin Peaks Blvd in San Francisco Haight-Ashbury - San Francisco Corona Heights Park - San Francisco Mission Dolores - San Francisco Mural Frescoes (Part 1) - Mission District - San Francisco Mural Frescoes (Part 2) - Mission District - San Francisco Devil's Slide Bunker - Pacifica Mavericks Beach - Half Moon Bay Martins Beach - Half Moon Bay Pigeon Point Lighthouse State Historic Park - Pescadero What to See in Santa Cruz Visiting Capitola What to See in Monterey Carmel-by-the-Sea Lovers Point Park - Pacific Grove Castle Rock, Hurricane Point & Little Sur River Viewpoints Pfeiffer Falls Trail Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park Vista Point & McWay Falls Highway 1 - Big Sur Viewpoints Salmon Creek Falls San Carpoforo Creek Trail Elephant Seal Vista Point - San Simeon San Simeon Pier Moonstone Beach Boardwalk Shipwreck - Estero Bluffs State Park Surfing Competition in Morro Bay Port San Luis Pier - San Luis Obispo Pismo Beach Monarch Butterfly Grove - Pismo State Beach Nojoqui Falls Park - Solvang Arroyo Hondo Vista Point Solvang, a Charming Danish Town in California Chumash Painted Cave - Santa Barbara Goleta San Marcos Rd & Cachuma Lake Vista Points - Santa Barbara Old Santa Barbara Mission Walking Tour of Santa Barbara’s Historic Downtown West Beach - Santa Barbara What to See in Ventura Paradise Falls - Wildwood Regional Park - Thousand Oaks Sandy Dune & El Matador State Beach - Malibu Point Dume Nature Reserve - Malibu Malibu Pier Road Trip in the Malibu Mountains Los Liones Trail - Santa Monica Santa Monica Pier Rodeo Drive - Beverly Hills Greystone Mansion - Beverly Hills Hollywood Walk of Fame - Los Angeles Griffith Observatory - Los Angeles Hollywood Forever Cemetery - Los Angeles What to See in Venice Beach Venice Beach Skatepark ShoreLine Aquatic Park - Long Beach Alamitos Beach - Long Beach Naples Island - Long Beach Crescent Bay Point Park & Helser Park Kiosk - Laguna Beach Shell Beach at Twin Points - Laguna Beach Prairie Dogs at Agra Vista Point Top Gun House & Oceanside Pier Annie's Canyon Trail - Solana Beach (Via North Rios Trailhead Loop) Old Town San Diego La Jolla Coastal Trail - San Diego Balboa Park - San Diego Pacific Beach - San Diego Mission Beach - San Diego Ocean Beach Tide Pools - San Diego Sunset Cliffs Natural Park - San Diego Tuna Harbor Park - San Diego Seaport Village & Embarcadero Marina Park - San Diego Gaslamp Quarter - Downtown San Diego Coronado Island - San Diego Dead Dolly Lane - Alpine Galleta Meadows Metal Sculptures - Borrego Springs What to See in Palm Springs Robolights - Palm Springs Andreas Canyon Trail - Indian Canyons - Palm Springs Palm Canyon Trail - Indian Canyons - Palm Springs West Fork Falls Trail - Indian Canyons - Palm Springs Tahquitz Canyon Loop Trail - Indian Canyons - Palm Springs Desert Christ Park - Yucca Valley Pioneertown Salvation Mountain - Niland Slab City - Niland
Highway 1 runs along the Pacific coast of California from Leggett in the north to Dana Point in the south. It's the longest state route in California, stretching 1,050 km.
It's famous for its breathtaking ocean views. That’s actually why it’s become such a popular route for road trips, with tons of attractions and points of interest all along the way.
After crossing the U.S. interior on our way out (see Road Trip USA 2023 - Part 1), we’re starting our return trip along this route from Leggett.
Videos are embedded throughout the summary. Please click on the image to start the video. To jump to a specific post, here are the appropriate links:
CALIFORNIA:
Scenic Overlooks on Route 1 Between Leggett and Fort Bragg The Pudding Creek Trestle Bridge in Fort Bragg Glass Beach - Fort Bragg Jenner Lookout Point - Highway 1 Goat Rock Beach - Sonoma Coast State Park - Jenner Point Reyes National Seashore - White House Pool Trail Point Reyes National Seashore - Limantour Beach Point Reyes National Seashore - Point Reyes Shipwreck Point Reyes National Seashore - Kehoe Beach Trail Point Reyes National Seashore - McClures Beach Trail Point Reyes National Seashore - Cypress Tree Tunnel Point Reyes National Seashore - Point Reyes Beach North Point Reyes National Seashore - Elephant Seals on Drakes Beach Point Reyes National Seashore - Point Reyes Beach South Point Reyes National Seashore – Elephant Seals Overlooks Point Reyes National Seashore - Chimney Rock Trail Point Reyes National Seashore - Point Reyes Lighthouse Trail Point Reyes National Seashore – Tule Elk Observation Point Bonita Lighthouse Trail - Sausalito Hawk Hill - Sausalito Battery Spencer Trail - Sausalito Rodeo Beach - Sausalito Point Cavallo - Golden Gate View - Sausalito Exploring Downtown Sausalito Visiting Sausalito’s Houseboats Crossing the Golden Gate Bridge - San Francisco Golden Gate Bridge Viewpoints - San Francisco Cruise to Alcatraz Island - San Francisco Visiting Alcatraz Island - San Francisco Civic Center - Downtown San Francisco Market Street & Yerba Buena Gardens - Downtown San Francisco Union Square & Financial District - Downtown San Francisco Fisherman's Wharf, Pier 39 & Embarcadero - San Francisco Sea Lion Observation - Pier 39 - San Francisco Lombard Street & Cable Car - Russian Hill - San Francisco Macondray Lane Historic District - Russian Hill - San Francisco Grace Cathedral & Huntington Park - Nob Hill - San Francisco Telegraph Hill - San Francisco Chinatown - San Francisco Alamo Square & Painted Ladies - Western Addition - San Francisco Palace of Fine Arts - Marina District - San Francisco Presidio of San Francisco California Coastal Trail - Lincoln Park - San Francisco California Palace of the Legion of Honor - Lincoln Park - San Francisco Sutro Baths - Lincoln Park - San Francisco Queen Wilhelmina Garden - Golden Gate Park - San Francisco Bison Paddock - Golden Gate Park - San Francisco Portals of the Past - Golden Gate Park - San Francisco Strawberry Hill - Golden Gate Park – San Francisco Prayerbook Cross & Robin Williams Meadow - Golden Gate Park - San Francisco Hidden Garden Steps & 16th Avenue Tiled Steps - San Francisco Grandview Park - San Francisco Hike - Twin Peaks Three Summits - San Francisco Longboarding Down Twin Peaks Blvd in San Francisco Haight-Ashbury - San Francisco Corona Heights Park - San Francisco Mission Dolores - San Francisco Mural Frescoes (Part 1) - Mission District - San Francisco Mural Frescoes (Part 2) - Mission District - San Francisco Devil's Slide Bunker - Pacifica Mavericks Beach - Half Moon Bay Martins Beach - Half Moon Bay Pigeon Point Lighthouse State Historic Park - Pescadero What to See in Santa Cruz Visiting Capitola What to See in Monterey Carmel-by-the-Sea Lovers Point Park - Pacific Grove Castle Rock, Hurricane Point & Little Sur River Viewpoints Pfeiffer Falls Trail Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park Vista Point & McWay Falls Highway 1 - Big Sur Viewpoints Salmon Creek Falls San Carpoforo Creek Trail Elephant Seal Vista Point - San Simeon San Simeon Pier Moonstone Beach Boardwalk Shipwreck - Estero Bluffs State Park Surfing Competition in Morro Bay Port San Luis Pier - San Luis Obispo Pismo Beach Monarch Butterfly Grove - Pismo State Beach Nojoqui Falls Park - Solvang Arroyo Hondo Vista Point Solvang, a Charming Danish Town in California Chumash Painted Cave - Santa Barbara Goleta San Marcos Rd & Cachuma Lake Vista Points - Santa Barbara Old Santa Barbara Mission Walking Tour of Santa Barbara’s Historic Downtown West Beach - Santa Barbara What to See in Ventura Paradise Falls - Wildwood Regional Park - Thousand Oaks Sandy Dune & El Matador State Beach - Malibu Point Dume Nature Reserve - Malibu Malibu Pier Road Trip in the Malibu Mountains Los Liones Trail - Santa Monica Santa Monica Pier Rodeo Drive - Beverly Hills Greystone Mansion - Beverly Hills Hollywood Walk of Fame - Los Angeles Griffith Observatory - Los Angeles Hollywood Forever Cemetery - Los Angeles What to See in Venice Beach Venice Beach Skatepark ShoreLine Aquatic Park - Long Beach Alamitos Beach - Long Beach Naples Island - Long Beach Crescent Bay Point Park & Helser Park Kiosk - Laguna Beach Shell Beach at Twin Points - Laguna Beach Prairie Dogs at Agra Vista Point Top Gun House & Oceanside Pier Annie's Canyon Trail - Solana Beach (Via North Rios Trailhead Loop) Old Town San Diego La Jolla Coastal Trail - San Diego Balboa Park - San Diego Pacific Beach - San Diego Mission Beach - San Diego Ocean Beach Tide Pools - San Diego Sunset Cliffs Natural Park - San Diego Tuna Harbor Park - San Diego Seaport Village & Embarcadero Marina Park - San Diego Gaslamp Quarter - Downtown San Diego Coronado Island - San Diego Dead Dolly Lane - Alpine Galleta Meadows Metal Sculptures - Borrego Springs What to See in Palm Springs Robolights - Palm Springs Andreas Canyon Trail - Indian Canyons - Palm Springs Palm Canyon Trail - Indian Canyons - Palm Springs West Fork Falls Trail - Indian Canyons - Palm Springs Tahquitz Canyon Loop Trail - Indian Canyons - Palm Springs Desert Christ Park - Yucca Valley Pioneertown Salvation Mountain - Niland Slab City - Niland
Langtang – Trekking in the Rain
We did the Langtang trek (hike) from September 10th to 17th, with the first and last days being the trip from Kathmandu and back—so 6 days of actual walking. It’s a fairly well-known trek but certainly not as famous or crowded as those in the Annapurna or Everest regions, which is why we chose it.
In theory, it’s mandatory to have a guide for this trek. In reality, it seems there are ways to bypass the regulations: we met at least two people hiking without a guide—a South Korean, a New Zealander, and possibly also a couple of English women and an American couple, though we’re not sure if they had a guide.
The agency we booked with had told us it was an affordable trek for relatively older people in good shape—which is our case (I’m 72 myself). I have to say upfront that we found it quite challenging, maybe because we didn’t have good weather—it was the end of the monsoon season. To be clear, no matter your fitness level, I’d say doing this trek in the middle of the monsoon season would be suicidal.
Day 1 – Journey from Kathmandu to Syapru Besi
On Monday, September 8th, there had been violent protests in Kathmandu against the government, which had, among other things, blocked access to social media and been accused of nepotism and corruption. There were 19 deaths. The situation was very tense on the day of our departure, Wednesday the 10th. The agency warned us that public transport was very unreliable. So, we decided to take a jeep, at an additional cost of $100 ($160 minus what was already budgeted for the bus).
We left a little before 7 a.m. and it took us a good hour just to reach the outskirts of Kathmandu. Along the way, we saw several houses and vehicles set on fire by protesters.
The road to Syapru Besi is only 120 km, but it’s frankly awful. It’s always narrow, winds through endless mountains, and the shoulders range from bad to confusing to nonexistent. Several sections are just dirt tracks. We didn’t regret opting for the jeep, as we could stop several times at our convenience—if only to let Y (my Thai partner) throw up everything she had. She’d taken her usual motion sickness medication, but the constant turns, accelerations, and braking eventually made her terribly carsick.
In Nuwakot, we stopped for breakfast at a nice little restaurant, Jimbu. It was around 8:30 a.m., and we’d barely covered 60 km. The restaurant has a lovely garden overlooking the Trishuli Ganga, the river flowing down from Syapru Besi. First photo: the river in the bottom right corner, mist and clouds over the mountain on the other side.
An hour later, my second photo: the hills along the Trishuli Ganga. You can see the different crops—lush green rice paddies in the lower right and corn, already yellowed and likely harvested, in the foreground on the left. And of course, the mist and clouds through which you can glimpse the mountain on the other side of the river.
In theory, it’s mandatory to have a guide for this trek. In reality, it seems there are ways to bypass the regulations: we met at least two people hiking without a guide—a South Korean, a New Zealander, and possibly also a couple of English women and an American couple, though we’re not sure if they had a guide.
The agency we booked with had told us it was an affordable trek for relatively older people in good shape—which is our case (I’m 72 myself). I have to say upfront that we found it quite challenging, maybe because we didn’t have good weather—it was the end of the monsoon season. To be clear, no matter your fitness level, I’d say doing this trek in the middle of the monsoon season would be suicidal.
Day 1 – Journey from Kathmandu to Syapru Besi
On Monday, September 8th, there had been violent protests in Kathmandu against the government, which had, among other things, blocked access to social media and been accused of nepotism and corruption. There were 19 deaths. The situation was very tense on the day of our departure, Wednesday the 10th. The agency warned us that public transport was very unreliable. So, we decided to take a jeep, at an additional cost of $100 ($160 minus what was already budgeted for the bus).
We left a little before 7 a.m. and it took us a good hour just to reach the outskirts of Kathmandu. Along the way, we saw several houses and vehicles set on fire by protesters.
The road to Syapru Besi is only 120 km, but it’s frankly awful. It’s always narrow, winds through endless mountains, and the shoulders range from bad to confusing to nonexistent. Several sections are just dirt tracks. We didn’t regret opting for the jeep, as we could stop several times at our convenience—if only to let Y (my Thai partner) throw up everything she had. She’d taken her usual motion sickness medication, but the constant turns, accelerations, and braking eventually made her terribly carsick.
In Nuwakot, we stopped for breakfast at a nice little restaurant, Jimbu. It was around 8:30 a.m., and we’d barely covered 60 km. The restaurant has a lovely garden overlooking the Trishuli Ganga, the river flowing down from Syapru Besi. First photo: the river in the bottom right corner, mist and clouds over the mountain on the other side.
An hour later, my second photo: the hills along the Trishuli Ganga. You can see the different crops—lush green rice paddies in the lower right and corn, already yellowed and likely harvested, in the foreground on the left. And of course, the mist and clouds through which you can glimpse the mountain on the other side of the river.
USA Road Trip 2023 - Part 1
In January 2023, we started our second road trip across the United States. We stayed from January to mid-March, which gave us plenty of time to visit several cities, attractions, and parks in multiple states.
This travel journal will be split into two parts due to the considerable number of places we visited.
This first journal covers the following states: Ohio, Indiana, Missouri, Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, Nevada, and California, and takes you through the outbound leg of our road trip.
The second journal will showcase the attractions we visited on the return trip, which mainly follows the famous Highway 1 along the Pacific coast.
So, I invite you to keep reading this first journal, which serves as a long recap to help you discover the various attractions we explored throughout this road trip.
Videos are included throughout the recap. Please click on the image to start the video.
Here are the links to jump to a specific post:
OHIO:
WinterLand - Christmas Lights at Cleveland Public Square Lake View Cemetery - Cleveland - Part 1 Lake View Cemetery - Cleveland - Part 2 Stroll through Columbus Upper Falls to Lower Falls via Buckeye Trail - Hocking Hills State Park – Logan Cedar Falls & Whispering Falls Hiking Trail - Hocking Hills State Park – Logan Ash Cave Hiking Trail - Hocking Hills State Park – Logan Exploring Cincinnati
INDIANA:
Visiting Indianapolis
MISSOURI:
Exploring St. Louis
OKLAHOMA:
Catoosa Blue Whale Discovering Tulsa Exploring Oklahoma City
TEXAS:
Exploring Shamrock Discovering McLean Exploring Amarillo
NEW MEXICO:
Ancestral Sites Trail - Pecos National Historical Park Discovering Santa Fe The Santuario de Chimayó Stroll through Los Cerrillos Walk through the village of Madrid San Francisco de Asis Catholic Church & The Bottle House - Golden Albuquerque Murals 66 Diner - Albuquerque Stroll through Old Town (Albuquerque) Rinconada Canyon Trail - Petroglyph National Monument Mesa Point Trail - Boca Negra Canyon - Petroglyph National Monument Macaw Trail - Boca Negra Canyon - Petroglyph National Monument Cliff Base Trail - Boca Negra Canyon - Petroglyph National Monument Piedras Marcadas Canyon - Petroglyph National Monument Sandstone Bluffs & Ventana Natural Arch - El Malpais National Monument
ARIZONA:
Stewart's Petrified Wood Shop – Holbrook Stroll through Holbrook Discovering Joseph City Exploring Winslow Grand Falls (The "Chocolate Falls") – Leupp Island Trail - Walnut Canyon National Monument Rim Trail - Walnut Canyon National Monument Wukoki Pueblo Trail – Wupatki National Monument Wupatki Pueblo Trail – Wupatki National Monument Doney Mountain Trail – Wupatki National Monument Citadel & Nalakihu Pueblos Trail – Wupatki National Monument Lomaki & Box Canyon Pueblos Trail – Wupatki National Monument Discovering Flagstaff On the way to Sedona Slide Rock State Park – Sedona Midgley Bridge Trail – Wilson Canyon – Sedona Tlaquepaque Arts & Shopping Village Walking Tour - Sedona Chapel of the Holy Cross - Sedona Hiking at Cathedral Rock - Sedona Hiking the Bell Rock Trail - Sedona Hiking the Airport Loop Trail - Sedona Amitabha Stupa and Peace Park - Sedona Hiking the Boynton Canyon Vortex Trail - Sedona Hiking the Devil's Bridge Trail - Sedona Hiking the Birthing Cave Trail - Sedona Bell Rock Inn - Sedona On the roads of Sedona - Part 1 On the roads of Sedona - Part 2 Keyhole Sink Hiking Trail - Kaibab National Forest Discovering Williams Exploring Ash Fork Discovering Kingman Ramada by Wyndham Kingman Davis Camp Park - Bullhead City Discovering Yucca Lake Havasu Boardwalk Tour A duck catches a lobster – Lake Havasu Boardwalk
CALIFORNIA:
Exploring Needles Discovering Goffs Discovering Amboy Visiting the famous Bagdad Cafe - Newberry Springs Exploring Barstow Vehicles from Hell (Mad Max Cars) - Barstow Peggy Sue's 50's Diner - Yermo Liberty Sculpture Park - Yermo Lake Dolores Water Park - Newberry Springs ZZYZX Road - Mojave National Preserve Alien Fresh Jerky - Baker Kelso Dunes Trail - Mojave National Preserve Hole-in-the-Wall Rings Trail - Mojave National Preserve Visiting Mitchell Caverns - Mojave National Preserve Dante's View - Death Valley National Park Zabriskie Point - Death Valley National Park Golden Canyon - Death Valley National Park Artists Drive & Artists Palette - Death Valley National Park Devil's Golf Course - Death Valley National Park Natural Bridge Trail - Death Valley National Park Badwater Basin - Death Valley National Park Harmony Borax Works - Death Valley National Park Devil's Cornfield - Death Valley National Park Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes - Death Valley National Park Mosaic Canyon Trail - Death Valley National Park On the road - Death Valley National Park
NEVADA:
Cleveland Clinic Lou Ruvo Center for Brain Health - Las Vegas Exploring Downtown Las Vegas SlotZilla Zipline - Fremont Street Experience – Downtown Las Vegas Viva Vision Light Show 1 - Fremont Street Experience - Downtown Las Vegas Viva Vision Light Show 2 - Fremont Street Experience - Downtown Las Vegas Viva Vision Light Show 3 - Fremont Street Experience - Downtown Las Vegas Viva Vision Light Show 4 - Fremont Street Experience - Downtown Las Vegas Free Live Music – Fremont Street Experience - Downtown Las Vegas Chucky – Fremont Street Experience - Downtown Las Vegas Las Vegas Strip - Part 1 Las Vegas Strip - Part 2 Las Vegas Strip - Part 3 Las Vegas Strip - Part 4 Las Vegas Strip - Part 5 Tom Devlin's Monster Museum - Boulder City Hoover Dam Lake Mead - Lakeview Overlook - Boulder City Nelson Ghost Town - Searchlight
CALIFORNIA:
Scenic Route through Joshua Tree National Park via the North Entrance Hidden Valley Trail - Joshua Tree National Park Barker Dam Trail - Joshua Tree National Park Cap Rock Trail - Joshua Tree National Park Keys View Trail - Joshua Tree National Park Hall of Horrors Trail - Joshua Tree National Park Skull Rock Trail - Joshua Tree National Park Arch Rock Trail - Joshua Tree National Park Cholla Cactus Garden Trail - Joshua Tree National Park Lone Pine - Owens Valley Miss Alabama & Shark Fin - Alabama Hills - Owens Valley Lone Ranger Canyon - Alabama Hills - Owens Valley Mobius Arch Loop Trail (Heart Arch & Lathe Arch) - Alabama Hills - Owens Valley Eye of the Alabama Hills Arch - Alabama Hills - Owens Valley Boot & Cyclops Arches - Alabama Hills - Owens Valley One Mile Arch, Bowling Ball and Pins & Gunga Din Area - Alabama Hills - Owens Valley Whitney Portal Arch Trailhead - Alabama Hills - Owens Valley Fish Rocks & Trona Pinnacles - Mojave Desert Red Cliffs Trail - Red Rock Canyon State Park Hagen Canyon Nature Trail - Red Rock Canyon State Park Tour of Historic Downtown Tehachapi View of the Tehachapi Loop – Monolith César E. Chávez National Monument – Keene Discovering Bakersfield Kern County Museum – Bakersfield Bravo Farms, Tree House & Petting Zoo - Traver Walking Tour of Kingsburg Exploring Fresno Simonian Farms & Soul Consoling Japanese Internment Tower - Fresno Duncan Ceramic Products (iLoveToCreate) - Fresno Walking Tour of Modesto Wat Dhammararam Buddhist Temple - Stockton Walking Tour of Stockton Discovering Stockton University of the Pacific - Stockton Visiting Lodi Sutter's Fort State Historic Park - Sacramento California State Capitol - Sacramento Walking Tour - Sacramento Walking Tour - Winters Walking Tour - Napa The Chandelier Tree In Drive-Thru Tree Park - Leggett One Log House - Garberville Grandfather Tree - Piercy The Living Chimney Tree - Avenue of the Giants Stephens Grove Loop Trail - Avenue of the Giants Gould Grove Nature Loop Trail - Avenue of the Giants Fleishmann Grove Trail - Avenue of the Giants Mahan Plaque Trail - Avenue of the Giants Founders Grove Nature Loop Trail - Avenue of the Giants Eternal Tree House & Immortal Tree - Avenue of the Giants Drury-Chaney Loop Trail - Avenue of the Giants Walking Tour - Redcrest
COMING UP NEXT:
USA Road Trip 2023 - Part 2
This travel journal will be split into two parts due to the considerable number of places we visited.
This first journal covers the following states: Ohio, Indiana, Missouri, Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, Nevada, and California, and takes you through the outbound leg of our road trip.
The second journal will showcase the attractions we visited on the return trip, which mainly follows the famous Highway 1 along the Pacific coast.
So, I invite you to keep reading this first journal, which serves as a long recap to help you discover the various attractions we explored throughout this road trip.
Videos are included throughout the recap. Please click on the image to start the video.
Here are the links to jump to a specific post:
OHIO:
WinterLand - Christmas Lights at Cleveland Public Square Lake View Cemetery - Cleveland - Part 1 Lake View Cemetery - Cleveland - Part 2 Stroll through Columbus Upper Falls to Lower Falls via Buckeye Trail - Hocking Hills State Park – Logan Cedar Falls & Whispering Falls Hiking Trail - Hocking Hills State Park – Logan Ash Cave Hiking Trail - Hocking Hills State Park – Logan Exploring Cincinnati
INDIANA:
Visiting Indianapolis
MISSOURI:
Exploring St. Louis
OKLAHOMA:
Catoosa Blue Whale Discovering Tulsa Exploring Oklahoma City
TEXAS:
Exploring Shamrock Discovering McLean Exploring Amarillo
NEW MEXICO:
Ancestral Sites Trail - Pecos National Historical Park Discovering Santa Fe The Santuario de Chimayó Stroll through Los Cerrillos Walk through the village of Madrid San Francisco de Asis Catholic Church & The Bottle House - Golden Albuquerque Murals 66 Diner - Albuquerque Stroll through Old Town (Albuquerque) Rinconada Canyon Trail - Petroglyph National Monument Mesa Point Trail - Boca Negra Canyon - Petroglyph National Monument Macaw Trail - Boca Negra Canyon - Petroglyph National Monument Cliff Base Trail - Boca Negra Canyon - Petroglyph National Monument Piedras Marcadas Canyon - Petroglyph National Monument Sandstone Bluffs & Ventana Natural Arch - El Malpais National Monument
ARIZONA:
Stewart's Petrified Wood Shop – Holbrook Stroll through Holbrook Discovering Joseph City Exploring Winslow Grand Falls (The "Chocolate Falls") – Leupp Island Trail - Walnut Canyon National Monument Rim Trail - Walnut Canyon National Monument Wukoki Pueblo Trail – Wupatki National Monument Wupatki Pueblo Trail – Wupatki National Monument Doney Mountain Trail – Wupatki National Monument Citadel & Nalakihu Pueblos Trail – Wupatki National Monument Lomaki & Box Canyon Pueblos Trail – Wupatki National Monument Discovering Flagstaff On the way to Sedona Slide Rock State Park – Sedona Midgley Bridge Trail – Wilson Canyon – Sedona Tlaquepaque Arts & Shopping Village Walking Tour - Sedona Chapel of the Holy Cross - Sedona Hiking at Cathedral Rock - Sedona Hiking the Bell Rock Trail - Sedona Hiking the Airport Loop Trail - Sedona Amitabha Stupa and Peace Park - Sedona Hiking the Boynton Canyon Vortex Trail - Sedona Hiking the Devil's Bridge Trail - Sedona Hiking the Birthing Cave Trail - Sedona Bell Rock Inn - Sedona On the roads of Sedona - Part 1 On the roads of Sedona - Part 2 Keyhole Sink Hiking Trail - Kaibab National Forest Discovering Williams Exploring Ash Fork Discovering Kingman Ramada by Wyndham Kingman Davis Camp Park - Bullhead City Discovering Yucca Lake Havasu Boardwalk Tour A duck catches a lobster – Lake Havasu Boardwalk
CALIFORNIA:
Exploring Needles Discovering Goffs Discovering Amboy Visiting the famous Bagdad Cafe - Newberry Springs Exploring Barstow Vehicles from Hell (Mad Max Cars) - Barstow Peggy Sue's 50's Diner - Yermo Liberty Sculpture Park - Yermo Lake Dolores Water Park - Newberry Springs ZZYZX Road - Mojave National Preserve Alien Fresh Jerky - Baker Kelso Dunes Trail - Mojave National Preserve Hole-in-the-Wall Rings Trail - Mojave National Preserve Visiting Mitchell Caverns - Mojave National Preserve Dante's View - Death Valley National Park Zabriskie Point - Death Valley National Park Golden Canyon - Death Valley National Park Artists Drive & Artists Palette - Death Valley National Park Devil's Golf Course - Death Valley National Park Natural Bridge Trail - Death Valley National Park Badwater Basin - Death Valley National Park Harmony Borax Works - Death Valley National Park Devil's Cornfield - Death Valley National Park Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes - Death Valley National Park Mosaic Canyon Trail - Death Valley National Park On the road - Death Valley National Park
NEVADA:
Cleveland Clinic Lou Ruvo Center for Brain Health - Las Vegas Exploring Downtown Las Vegas SlotZilla Zipline - Fremont Street Experience – Downtown Las Vegas Viva Vision Light Show 1 - Fremont Street Experience - Downtown Las Vegas Viva Vision Light Show 2 - Fremont Street Experience - Downtown Las Vegas Viva Vision Light Show 3 - Fremont Street Experience - Downtown Las Vegas Viva Vision Light Show 4 - Fremont Street Experience - Downtown Las Vegas Free Live Music – Fremont Street Experience - Downtown Las Vegas Chucky – Fremont Street Experience - Downtown Las Vegas Las Vegas Strip - Part 1 Las Vegas Strip - Part 2 Las Vegas Strip - Part 3 Las Vegas Strip - Part 4 Las Vegas Strip - Part 5 Tom Devlin's Monster Museum - Boulder City Hoover Dam Lake Mead - Lakeview Overlook - Boulder City Nelson Ghost Town - Searchlight
CALIFORNIA:
Scenic Route through Joshua Tree National Park via the North Entrance Hidden Valley Trail - Joshua Tree National Park Barker Dam Trail - Joshua Tree National Park Cap Rock Trail - Joshua Tree National Park Keys View Trail - Joshua Tree National Park Hall of Horrors Trail - Joshua Tree National Park Skull Rock Trail - Joshua Tree National Park Arch Rock Trail - Joshua Tree National Park Cholla Cactus Garden Trail - Joshua Tree National Park Lone Pine - Owens Valley Miss Alabama & Shark Fin - Alabama Hills - Owens Valley Lone Ranger Canyon - Alabama Hills - Owens Valley Mobius Arch Loop Trail (Heart Arch & Lathe Arch) - Alabama Hills - Owens Valley Eye of the Alabama Hills Arch - Alabama Hills - Owens Valley Boot & Cyclops Arches - Alabama Hills - Owens Valley One Mile Arch, Bowling Ball and Pins & Gunga Din Area - Alabama Hills - Owens Valley Whitney Portal Arch Trailhead - Alabama Hills - Owens Valley Fish Rocks & Trona Pinnacles - Mojave Desert Red Cliffs Trail - Red Rock Canyon State Park Hagen Canyon Nature Trail - Red Rock Canyon State Park Tour of Historic Downtown Tehachapi View of the Tehachapi Loop – Monolith César E. Chávez National Monument – Keene Discovering Bakersfield Kern County Museum – Bakersfield Bravo Farms, Tree House & Petting Zoo - Traver Walking Tour of Kingsburg Exploring Fresno Simonian Farms & Soul Consoling Japanese Internment Tower - Fresno Duncan Ceramic Products (iLoveToCreate) - Fresno Walking Tour of Modesto Wat Dhammararam Buddhist Temple - Stockton Walking Tour of Stockton Discovering Stockton University of the Pacific - Stockton Visiting Lodi Sutter's Fort State Historic Park - Sacramento California State Capitol - Sacramento Walking Tour - Sacramento Walking Tour - Winters Walking Tour - Napa The Chandelier Tree In Drive-Thru Tree Park - Leggett One Log House - Garberville Grandfather Tree - Piercy The Living Chimney Tree - Avenue of the Giants Stephens Grove Loop Trail - Avenue of the Giants Gould Grove Nature Loop Trail - Avenue of the Giants Fleishmann Grove Trail - Avenue of the Giants Mahan Plaque Trail - Avenue of the Giants Founders Grove Nature Loop Trail - Avenue of the Giants Eternal Tree House & Immortal Tree - Avenue of the Giants Drury-Chaney Loop Trail - Avenue of the Giants Walking Tour - Redcrest
COMING UP NEXT:
USA Road Trip 2023 - Part 2
Luang Prabang, Nong Khiaw, and Muang Ngoi (Laos) – Trip Report
Arrival at Luang Prabang Airport: Got my visa on the spot in under 5 minutes, but it cost me $40 + $1 for some "processing fee" and a photo.
First ATM withdrawal of the maximum allowed—about 82 €! Luckily, I had euros on me because each withdrawal comes with a fixed fee of 30,000 kips (like in Thailand, where it’s 200 baht per withdrawal, but here you can take out up to 800 €!).
Then I took the airport taxi service for 100,000 kips per person. It’s a minivan that drops passengers (8–10) at their hotels. The ticket booth is right at the exit—easy to spot with a sign that says "Taxi Service."
I left Luang Prabang for Nong Khiaw by minivan, paying 180,000 kips. A big tuk-tuk taxi picked us up at the hotel at 8:40 AM, and we picked up more people along the way until we reached a small minivan station. Our "minivan" was *very* mini—we still managed to squeeze in 12 people, with 2 up front + the driver, even though there wasn’t really space for 2 full seats—more like 1.5! Luggage was strapped to the roof under a tarp for the trip. Scheduled to leave at 9 AM, we finally took off at 9:30. The ride took 4 hours and 15 minutes from station to station—roads were rough, sometimes unpaved, and always full of potholes. This route is mostly used by trucks registered in China. We passed the dam that now blocks boat traffic between Luang Prabang and Nong Khiaw. About 40 km from Nong Khiaw, we turned off the main road onto a smaller one, less crowded with trucks but still rough. At the Nong Khiaw bus station, a shared taxi was waiting to drop everyone off at their hotels. I walked to mine—the Nam Ou View Villa, about 600 meters from the station. Nice room with a great view of the river.
Nong Khiaw is easy to explore on foot. One unpaved road runs along the river, lined with hotels and restaurants with terraces, while a parallel paved road has little traffic and all the shops. I loved the vibe and tranquility of the town. There are plenty of guesthouses, especially on the other side of the bridge. Restaurants everywhere, all in a calm atmosphere. I hiked up to the highest viewpoint—there are several. The climb is supposed to take 1.5 hours, but it took me 2. Time to enjoy the nature and catch my breath! No real difficulty, just a *lot* of uphill. There’s a small toll at the start of the climb—I don’t remember the exact amount, but it wasn’t expensive. The view at the top is stunning—360°! Mornings are cloudy, midday is usually clear, and evenings are all about the sunset ☀️. The descent was tougher for me—guaranteed sore muscles!
I also walked along the Nam Ou toward Muang Ngoi. The road is quiet and unpaved but often narrow with no views. Small villages along the way. In town, you can rent canoes, and agencies offer day trips or multi-day excursions. There are shops, a bank, and 2 ATMs.
Departure for Muang Ngoi—a village only accessible by private or public boat. I took the 11:30 AM public boat (sold as 11 AM) for 70,000 kips. There were so many of us that two boats were needed, and we were still packed in! We left 40 minutes late because the ticket collector didn’t check anything, and one ticket was missing. Of course, everyone insisted they’d paid—which was probably true, given the general disorganization. The trip took 1 hour and 5 minutes, going upstream against the current. Gorgeous.
Arriving at Muang Ngoi’s tiny dock, hotel owners were waiting for their guests or offering rooms to those without reservations. I’d booked the Riverview Bungalows & GH. The room was a bit worn but comfortable, and the view was amazing!
Muang Ngoi has ONE recently paved main street—all other paths are red dirt and dusty, perfect for unguided day hikes. I *loved* this village. People live their lives without worrying much about tourists, who aren’t too numerous yet. There’s no bank or ATM, and dollars are accepted (even preferred) for transport and hotels. Watch the condition of your bills—the hotelier refused one with a tiny stain I hadn’t even noticed! There are travel agencies for excursions, small shops... I often ate at Gecko (Western food, I admit) and across the street at Vita, which serves a delicious local dish called *Suzy*—a curry-like specialty. From Muang Ngoi, there are plenty of easy hikes. The trails are simple to find and follow, except for those crossing rice fields. Maps.Me helped me stay on track.
If you don’t want to walk, there are very local transport options: modified tractors with platforms for passengers and luggage. I took an excursion to Sopchem, a small village 40 minutes away by boat. I paid $20 round-trip for two people on a private boat. The ride was stunning—the river cuts through mountains in this section. Sopchem is tiny but charming, especially for buying textiles. Every house has a loom out front and a display selling their work. I bought two scarves for 60,000 kips each without bargaining—it seemed like a steal. Back in Luang Prabang, I saw the same scarves in a fancy boutique for 55,000 kips each—9 or 10 times the price!!!!
I also tried the village laundry service—everywhere lists the price as 25,000 kips per kilo. I picked the closest one to my hotel and watched from my balcony as the woman washed my clothes in the river, then hung them on her fence all day in the dust! Turns out only hotels have washing machines. Better to postpone laundry or do it yourself—my clothes didn’t smell great afterward!
For the return to Luang Prabang, I splurged on a private transfer. An agency at the dock arranged it for $100. I took the public boat to Nong Khiaw, where a driver was waiting. His vehicle was a pickup truck, and the trip took 4 hours total to my hotel in the city center. I recommend this agency (Lattanavongsa Tour Adventure)—very professional. They also run a hotel (same name) that looked nice from the outside, though not riverfront.
In Luang Prabang, I did the Mekong sunset cruise. Departed at 4:30 PM with Sasa Sunset Cruise for 245,000 kips, including one drink and spring rolls. I was lucky to see a beautiful sunset—I don’t regret it. I also visited the tiny Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre—very interesting for learning about Laos’ ethnic groups and textile traditions, but *very* small. Of course, I visited the temples and wandered the alleys to admire the stunning houses. The sunset at Mount Phousi was nice, but *so* crowded! The night market is fun but not super interesting—vendors sell pretty much the same things you’ll find in daytime shops at the same prices. There are two food courts, one huge at the end of the market. I love the concept, but the quality of the stalls is debatable.
Luang Prabang The morning alms-giving ceremony for monks is called *Tak Bat*. This ritual has turned into a circus for Chinese tourists. I’d visited Luang Prabang 15 years ago and didn’t find the same serenity in the ceremony. In Luang Prabang, I exchanged euros at BFL BRED Bank (recommended in the *Routard* guide). Good rates and a smooth transaction. The employee spoke excellent French and offered me deals on the Sasa sunset cruise (with dinner) and a taxi to the airport. I took her up on the taxi—it was much cheaper. She explained that she works evenings at Sasa Sunset Cruise and the taxi driver is her husband.
Hope this gives you some practical tips for your next trip!
I left Luang Prabang for Nong Khiaw by minivan, paying 180,000 kips. A big tuk-tuk taxi picked us up at the hotel at 8:40 AM, and we picked up more people along the way until we reached a small minivan station. Our "minivan" was *very* mini—we still managed to squeeze in 12 people, with 2 up front + the driver, even though there wasn’t really space for 2 full seats—more like 1.5! Luggage was strapped to the roof under a tarp for the trip. Scheduled to leave at 9 AM, we finally took off at 9:30. The ride took 4 hours and 15 minutes from station to station—roads were rough, sometimes unpaved, and always full of potholes. This route is mostly used by trucks registered in China. We passed the dam that now blocks boat traffic between Luang Prabang and Nong Khiaw. About 40 km from Nong Khiaw, we turned off the main road onto a smaller one, less crowded with trucks but still rough. At the Nong Khiaw bus station, a shared taxi was waiting to drop everyone off at their hotels. I walked to mine—the Nam Ou View Villa, about 600 meters from the station. Nice room with a great view of the river.
Nong Khiaw is easy to explore on foot. One unpaved road runs along the river, lined with hotels and restaurants with terraces, while a parallel paved road has little traffic and all the shops. I loved the vibe and tranquility of the town. There are plenty of guesthouses, especially on the other side of the bridge. Restaurants everywhere, all in a calm atmosphere. I hiked up to the highest viewpoint—there are several. The climb is supposed to take 1.5 hours, but it took me 2. Time to enjoy the nature and catch my breath! No real difficulty, just a *lot* of uphill. There’s a small toll at the start of the climb—I don’t remember the exact amount, but it wasn’t expensive. The view at the top is stunning—360°! Mornings are cloudy, midday is usually clear, and evenings are all about the sunset ☀️. The descent was tougher for me—guaranteed sore muscles!
I also walked along the Nam Ou toward Muang Ngoi. The road is quiet and unpaved but often narrow with no views. Small villages along the way. In town, you can rent canoes, and agencies offer day trips or multi-day excursions. There are shops, a bank, and 2 ATMs.
Departure for Muang Ngoi—a village only accessible by private or public boat. I took the 11:30 AM public boat (sold as 11 AM) for 70,000 kips. There were so many of us that two boats were needed, and we were still packed in! We left 40 minutes late because the ticket collector didn’t check anything, and one ticket was missing. Of course, everyone insisted they’d paid—which was probably true, given the general disorganization. The trip took 1 hour and 5 minutes, going upstream against the current. Gorgeous.
Arriving at Muang Ngoi’s tiny dock, hotel owners were waiting for their guests or offering rooms to those without reservations. I’d booked the Riverview Bungalows & GH. The room was a bit worn but comfortable, and the view was amazing!
Muang Ngoi has ONE recently paved main street—all other paths are red dirt and dusty, perfect for unguided day hikes. I *loved* this village. People live their lives without worrying much about tourists, who aren’t too numerous yet. There’s no bank or ATM, and dollars are accepted (even preferred) for transport and hotels. Watch the condition of your bills—the hotelier refused one with a tiny stain I hadn’t even noticed! There are travel agencies for excursions, small shops... I often ate at Gecko (Western food, I admit) and across the street at Vita, which serves a delicious local dish called *Suzy*—a curry-like specialty. From Muang Ngoi, there are plenty of easy hikes. The trails are simple to find and follow, except for those crossing rice fields. Maps.Me helped me stay on track.
If you don’t want to walk, there are very local transport options: modified tractors with platforms for passengers and luggage. I took an excursion to Sopchem, a small village 40 minutes away by boat. I paid $20 round-trip for two people on a private boat. The ride was stunning—the river cuts through mountains in this section. Sopchem is tiny but charming, especially for buying textiles. Every house has a loom out front and a display selling their work. I bought two scarves for 60,000 kips each without bargaining—it seemed like a steal. Back in Luang Prabang, I saw the same scarves in a fancy boutique for 55,000 kips each—9 or 10 times the price!!!!
I also tried the village laundry service—everywhere lists the price as 25,000 kips per kilo. I picked the closest one to my hotel and watched from my balcony as the woman washed my clothes in the river, then hung them on her fence all day in the dust! Turns out only hotels have washing machines. Better to postpone laundry or do it yourself—my clothes didn’t smell great afterward!
For the return to Luang Prabang, I splurged on a private transfer. An agency at the dock arranged it for $100. I took the public boat to Nong Khiaw, where a driver was waiting. His vehicle was a pickup truck, and the trip took 4 hours total to my hotel in the city center. I recommend this agency (Lattanavongsa Tour Adventure)—very professional. They also run a hotel (same name) that looked nice from the outside, though not riverfront.
In Luang Prabang, I did the Mekong sunset cruise. Departed at 4:30 PM with Sasa Sunset Cruise for 245,000 kips, including one drink and spring rolls. I was lucky to see a beautiful sunset—I don’t regret it. I also visited the tiny Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre—very interesting for learning about Laos’ ethnic groups and textile traditions, but *very* small. Of course, I visited the temples and wandered the alleys to admire the stunning houses. The sunset at Mount Phousi was nice, but *so* crowded! The night market is fun but not super interesting—vendors sell pretty much the same things you’ll find in daytime shops at the same prices. There are two food courts, one huge at the end of the market. I love the concept, but the quality of the stalls is debatable.
Luang Prabang The morning alms-giving ceremony for monks is called *Tak Bat*. This ritual has turned into a circus for Chinese tourists. I’d visited Luang Prabang 15 years ago and didn’t find the same serenity in the ceremony. In Luang Prabang, I exchanged euros at BFL BRED Bank (recommended in the *Routard* guide). Good rates and a smooth transaction. The employee spoke excellent French and offered me deals on the Sasa sunset cruise (with dinner) and a taxi to the airport. I took her up on the taxi—it was much cheaper. She explained that she works evenings at Sasa Sunset Cruise and the taxi driver is her husband.
Hope this gives you some practical tips for your next trip!
21-Day Trip to La Gomera and La Palma
Travel Journal: 21 Days in La Gomera and La Palma
From February 6 to February 26, 2024
Tuesday, February 6 We left around 9 AM with our car, along with Pierre-Paul and Patricia, heading to the Bluepark parking lot in Bartenheim. As expected, we were awaited and left promptly for EuroAirport Basel. Took off at 12:25 PM for a 4-hour-15-minute flight under excellent conditions. Beautiful arrival in Tenerife with Teide in sight under a clear blue sky. Fifteen minutes later, we waited for bus No. 40 to Los Cristianos with quite a few other tourists, but we managed to find four seats. From the bus station, it was a 20-minute walk to our hotel. We checked into a lovely apartment for the four of us, complete with all the comforts. Outside, it was quite warm—at least 25°C! After dropping off our luggage, we went for a stroll. The immediate surroundings of the hotel held no interest for us: a modern, concrete area filled with hotels, bars, tourist agencies, and unappealing restaurants all offering the same bland international cuisine. Pat went to cool off at the pool, unfortunately overrun by loud, drunk English tourists. I took a walk to the paseo maritimo that leads to the port, skirting the seafront. The promenade was pleasant, but it could have been any seaside resort in the world—same old scene: a succession of bars with blaring music where many elderly people sipped cold beers waiting for the sunset, the backdrop a wall of resort-style hotels resembling rabbit hutches! Upon reaching the port, I scouted the route we’d take the next day to the Fred Olsen ferry. Back at the apartment, in the early evening, we looked for a non-touristy restaurant for dinner. Monique stopped a woman to ask her opinion! In this area, she told us, there’s no restaurant that serves Canarian or Spanish cuisine! The only place with decent restaurants is at the port. Off we went to the port, where we sat down at Al Bordo restaurant and ordered a seafood paella for four. Excellent, and at a very reasonable price (36 € for two). We returned to the hotel along the seafront.
Wednesday, February 7
Woke up at 6 AM. Had breakfast in the apartment with what we’d bought the day before at a supermarket. It was still dark when we left on foot toward the port, walking along the calm seafront at this early hour. Forty minutes later, we arrived and waited 10 minutes before the ferry docked. At 9:30 AM, we left the port of Los Cristianos for a 50-minute crossing on a calm sea under a beautiful blue sky. There were quite a few people on this large ferry, but many had no luggage, meaning they were visiting La Gomera for the day and would take the ferry back in the evening. Upon disembarking, we went straight to our rental car agency to pick up the car we’d booked online a few months earlier. It was a nice Peugeot 2008, spacious enough for the four of us and our luggage. We immediately took the beautiful road from San Sebastián that climbs directly into the mountains toward our rental in Vallehermoso. The road was in perfect condition—it seemed brand new, like all the others we’d take on this island later. This side of the island is very arid with little vegetation, and the terrain is particularly rugged, as it is throughout the island. We stopped at our first miradors, which would be followed by many more throughout our Canarian trip. Our first visit was to the small village of Agulo, perched on a promontory above the sea and at the foot of a high cliff. The village features typical Canarian houses with windows flush with the façade and black volcanic stone masonry on white or reddish-brown walls. The first recommended restaurant was already booked for a group, so we settled for the shaded terrace of the excellent El Alameda bar-restaurant. From Agulo, you can access the Abrante viewpoint via a winding road, where the view of Agulo, 600 meters below, is exceptional. A glass ledge over the void lets you test your fear of heights!
We drove to Vallehermoso to do our grocery shopping at the supermarket—a habit that would continue until the end of the trip. Our little house, "Casa rural El Encatadora," is located in a beautiful flower-filled valley a few kilometers west of Vallehermoso. Each of us had a bedroom with an en-suite bathroom, plus a living room, kitchen, and a small terrace overlooking the quiet street at the valley’s end, which didn’t bother us at all.
Thursday, February 8 The good weather seemed to follow us since our arrival in the Canary Islands. This morning, we took the road—still as beautiful and new—toward Arure, high up to the west. The landscape was magnificent, with breathtaking glimpses of the sea far below. In Arure, we parked in front of Conchita’s bar, where a hike (Rother No. 30) starts toward two viewpoints: Alojera, which we reached after 45 minutes on a lovely path. Monique, tired from the first steep climb, stopped at the first viewpoint and hitchhiked back to Arure. Meanwhile, we continued toward the second viewpoint, Los Barranquillos, where the view of the surroundings was partially hidden by misty clouds rising from the sea. The entire mountain is sculpted by ancient, endless terraces climbing until the slope becomes too steep for construction—visible traces of the hard work of past inhabitants trying to survive in a harsh environment. We had a decent lunch at La Conchita bar, then drove to the small seaside town of Puerto la Caleta, sheltered by an immense cliff plunging into the sea. Black sand beach, rough sea—despite our encouragement, Pat didn’t dare to swim! As for the old village of Caleta, it’s perched on the mountainside, and visiting it requires climbing steep, stair-filled alleys to discover a few traditional houses. Back at the casa, dinner in, and card games...
Vallehermoso
Friday, February 9 This morning, the sky was overcast, and the peaks around us were shrouded in clouds. We took the same road as yesterday to hike Las Creces. Quickly gaining altitude, we entered a thick fog—visibility was very limited. We stopped at the Las Creces parking lot; visibility improved, and the sun wasn’t far off. The hike is entirely within a beautiful laurel forest, with the sun playing hide-and-seek, but it wasn’t cold despite the altitude. After finishing the loop trail, we decided to picnic—not there, as it was too chilly—but on Vallehermoso’s beach, where we found a nice picnic area sheltered by large black rocks. A short digestive walk on the surrounding hill to admire the little beach from above. Back in Vallehermoso, we did some grocery shopping, then tried to return to the casa—only to find ourselves locked out because we’d left the key in the lock inside! After several attempts and with the help of Yéli, a relative of the owner we called for help, we were finally able to get back in!
Saturday, February 10
It rained last night, and the sky remained overcast. Monique decided to rest this morning. PP, Pat, and I set off on the hike that starts from the house toward the Marichal reservoir. The sun wasn’t far off, and by 11 AM, it was fully out. The pleasant hike passed by many flower-filled gardens and orchards—orange, lemon, and mandarin trees in fruit. The path climbed gently toward the reservoir, where the view of the Cano rock dominating the landscape was magnificent. The last part of the climb was a bit tough, overgrown with lush vegetation, and the trail was slippery from last night’s rain. We descended via a different, much more pleasant path and returned to the casa just in time for lunch, prepared by Monique. This valley is rich with its many farmers and market gardeners who’ve cultivated the entire valley, taking advantage of the water flowing down from the mountain, captured upstream and redistributed through countless pipes snaking along the paths. Numerous tanks also store water during dry periods. The houses are scattered across both sides of the valley, and these colorful little homes add a beautiful touch to the landscape. The many palm trees give this valley a distinctly tropical feel—you could almost imagine yourself in the Caribbean. Add to that some salsa music drifting from a hut where farmers were working, and the picture is complete. A well-chilled beer apéro capped off a lovely morning. The afternoon was dedicated to rest, relaxation, reading, and games.
Sunday, February 11 The blue sky returned, though a few clouds still capped the highest peaks. Today, we visited Garajonay National Park, which covers the highest central mountains. Up there, we were above the clouds, and the panoramas from the various viewpoints were stunning: first, Cherelepin, accessible from the Laguna Grande parking lot, then Alto de Garajonay, offering an exceptional view of Teide—over 3,000 meters high—emerging from the clouds on Tenerife, far in the distance. We continued to the Los Roques viewpoints, then stopped for lunch at the Degollada de Peraza restaurant, where the view of the barranco was impressive. We descended toward San Sebastián and checked into our new lodging, La Cabezada, located in the countryside about 3 km above San Sebastián. It’s a small apartment adjacent to the owner’s, with a lovely terrace overlooking the surrounding mountains and surrounded by a beautiful garden. Apéro, then dinner on our beautiful terrace.
Monday, February 12 This morning, we went down to visit San Sebastián de La Gomera: its old tower, main street with some beautiful traditional houses, and the Church of the Assumption. Back at the casa for lunch. In the afternoon, Pat, PP, and I set off on the short hike from San Sebastián beach to La Guancha beach. We drove down and parked on the beach. The path climbs along the hill overlooking San Sebastián, passes by the tall Christ statue dominating the landscape, and roughly follows the coast down to the isolated Guancha beach. A beautiful hike under a hot sun, and a swim was welcome, even if the beach and sea access weren’t very comfortable due to large pebbles and quickly deepening water. Apart from two nudist bathers, there was no one on this beach. We returned the same way.
Tuesday, February 13 Rest day. We went down to town to stroll and do some shopping. I took the opportunity to visit the parador, beautifully situated above the city in a lovely garden overlooking the port and town. Together, we went for a cuba libre at the "Cuba Libre" bar, then had lunch at Breñusca (mediocre paella!). Back at the casa, then we went back down to town to see a carnival parade, a "passacalles," which actually passed an hour earlier than scheduled. Oh well.
Wednesday, February 14 Each to their own program this morning. Pat went swimming at San Sebastián beach, Monique rested at the casa, and PP and I set off on the hike from Playa de Avalos to the Ermita de Guadalupe on Playa del Cangrejo. It wasn’t easy to find the right road or the parking spot, but we managed. The path seemed to have suffered landslides, according to a sign at the trailhead! We decided to check it out, ready to turn back if it seemed too dangerous. In the end, apart from one or two slightly tricky spots where we had to climb a pile of rocks, the trail remained passable, though a bit vertigo-inducing in places. The narrow path clings to very vertical cliffs nearly 300 meters above sea level! But what a magnificent view. At one point, the trail runs alongside a wall of basaltic pipes. We returned via the drivable track that parallels the trail a bit lower. Back at the house for lunch. In the late afternoon, we returned to town to attend the "Entierro de las Sardinas" (Burial of the Sardine), which closes the Canarian carnival festivities. While waiting, we strolled through the parador’s gardens and had mojitos in town. Around 9 PM, we heard the noise and cries of the mourners. The procession advanced, led by a large papier-mâché sardine on a float, surrounded by wailing mourners. The procession headed toward the sea, where the sardine was burned, and a mini fireworks display ended the procession. It was all very good-natured, and everyone had fun. We ended the evening with dinner at a good fish restaurant, El Pajar.
Entierro de la Sardina in San Sebastián de La Gomera
Thursday, February 15
Woke up at 5:15 AM. The only suitable ferry was at 7 AM, which would get us to La Palma by late morning rather than evening. We packed our bags, had breakfast, then headed to the port, left our rental car, and boarded the ferry to Tenerife, from where we’d continue to La Palma. Calm sea, beautiful sun—by 10:30 AM, we disembarked in La Palma. We picked up our car and immediately headed to our new apartment in Breña Alta. It’s a large apartment with a superb terrace facing the sea, fully equipped and very comfortable. The hosts recommended Casa Goyo restaurant, near the airport and close to us. It’s a restaurant with many small rooms, some of which can be reserved for families. The fish-based cuisine (chipirones, pulpo) was excellent, hearty, and reasonably priced. Since it’s in the airport’s flight path, we occasionally heard planes landing. Quick and efficient service. Afterward, we visited Santa Cruz de La Palma, which reminded us of the historic quarters of La Orotava in Tenerife or the capital of Gran Canaria.
Friday, February 16
Beautiful weather, blue sky. We headed to the San Bartolo viewpoint toward the northeast coast, then to the lovely village of San Andrés, which we explored. From there, we walked along the shore to the natural pools of Charco Azul, where we swam in the cool but "swimmable" sea. Back in San Andrés for lunch at the "San Andrés" restaurant on the beautiful church square. Very good fish-based meal. We got back in the car and continued along the north coast to the port of Espindola and the natural pools of Fajana near the Cumplida lighthouse. A fairly strong wind whipped up beautiful waves crashing onto the rocky coast in bursts of foam. Back in Santa Cruz, we stopped at the Mercadona supermarket to buy fresh shrimp for dinner.
San Andrés
Saturday, February 17
Uniform blue sky, even on the heights. We took the beautiful road that winds up to the summit of the Caldera de Taburiente. Several viewpoints offer 360° views of the entire island and beyond: you can make out La Gomera, El Hierro, and, of course, Tenerife with the perfect triangle of Teide. We parked at the Los Andes viewpoint parking lot and started our hike to Pico de la Cruz along a trail following the ridge, offering superb views into the caldera. We got back in the car and passed by the Roque de los Muchachos astronomical complex, composed of numerous observatories, some with very aesthetic mirror telescopes. We hiked from the Roque de los Muchachos parking lot to the various viewpoints, always as impressive. Picnic on site, then back to Santa Cruz. We stopped by our car dealer because the oil warning light came on—better safe than sorry. The representative reassured us but preferred to give us a Fiat Cross SUV instead.
The Caldera de Taburiente
Sunday, February 18 The weather was a bit mixed, with cloudy patches. We set off to hike the Barranco de la Cuba de Galga. Unfortunately, the Los Tilos trail had been closed for several months due to a major landslide. The parking lot by the road was already quite full, and indeed, we crossed paths with many hikers along the way—it’s an easy hike with little elevation gain, which is rare here in La Palma! The beautiful path winds through a very narrow, deep gorge covered in lush tropical vegetation—you’d think you were in a Southeast Asian forest, especially with the humidity in the gorge bringing out earthy and floral scents. Halfway through, Monique turned back while the rest of us continued to the Cuba de Galga. A light drizzle accompanied us on the return. For lunch, we went to Chipi Chipi restaurant in the heights of Santa Cruz. The cool air forced us to leave the lovely terrace for the slightly noisy dining room. The meal was very good and hearty. Afternoon spent resting at our house.
La Cuba de la Galga
Monday, February 19 A few clouds still clung to the nearby mountain peaks. We headed south to Los Canarios. We stopped in front of the small San Antonio Abad church, where a path leads to the viewpoint in 15 minutes. Then we visited the San Antonio Volcano Interpretation Center and climbed to the viewpoint via the trail along the crater’s edge, offering a plunging view into the crater. Then PP, Pat, and I headed toward the Teneguía volcano but turned back given the remaining distance and the intense heat bearing down on us! Plus, the landscape was rather arid and not very interesting. We got back in the car and drove down to the salt flats at the island’s southern tip. The ocean crashes here in large waves, exploding against the volcanic rocks and feeding a "blowhole" carved into the rock. We stopped for drinks at the salt flats restaurant, then headed home.
The salt flats in Fuencaliente
Tuesday, February 20 Beautiful weather with a few clouds clinging to the mountains, as usual. A relaxed morning since my parking reservation at La Cumbrecita didn’t start until 1 PM. It takes about 30 minutes from Santa Cruz to reach the valley floor via a beautiful but narrow road toward the end, though there’s very little traffic. Meanwhile, the clouds had disappeared, and the view from the La Cumbrecita viewpoint was superb. We recognized Pico de la Cruz in the distance, where we’d been a few days earlier. We then took the path leading to the Las Chozas viewpoint through a magnificent Canarian pine forest. We picnicked on site, then took the path to the Los Roques viewpoint. We returned the same way since the direct route was closed for construction. Back in Santa Cruz, we visited the Sanctuary of Las Nieves, with its beautiful golden Baroque altar.
Hike from La Cumbrecita
Wednesday, February 21 After packing our things and loading the car, we left Santa Cruz under a very blue sky for Los Llanos de Aridane, where we stopped to visit this lovely town. The Church of Nuestra Señora de los Remedios has a beautiful coffered ceiling and an original papier-mâché Christ statue from the 16th century. Around it, colorful old Canarian houses brighten the streets of the town center. We took the opportunity to stroll, do some shopping, and finally sat down at La Pergola restaurant for a mediocre lunch. We got back in the car to check into our new house in Arecida. On the way, we stopped at the Mirador del Time, which once again offered an impressive panorama, allowing us—for the first time—to see the damage caused by the Tajogaite volcano eruption in 2021. You can clearly see the still-smoking crater and the large black lava flow covering the landscape down to the sea. We really liked our new accommodation: a local house that’s been renovated on the heights of Arecida, not far from the Canarian pine forest. From several terraces, we have a 360° view of the sea and mountains. We even have a private pool! There are two beautiful, brand-new bedrooms, each with its own bathroom—the best. Plus, we’re on the GR 131 trail that runs along the Barranco de las Angustias toward the northeast.
Los Llanos de Aridane
Thursday, February 22 Once again, beautiful weather greeted us when we woke up. We started the GR 131 with the goal of reaching the Torre del Time viewpoint—about 400 meters of elevation gain. The path, quite steep at first, winds through a superb Canarian pine forest. A few viewpoints let you appreciate the sheer drop of the Barranco de las Angustias—watch out for vertigo! At the Torre del Time viewpoint, there’s a nearly 1,000-meter vertical drop. We returned via another path, the PLP1, which meanders first through this beautiful forest, then along lovely flower-filled gardens adjacent to beautiful properties that cascade from the forest down to the road serving these neighborhoods. This afternoon, we tried to get closer to the area devastated by the 2021 lava flows. Several roads are still closed or reserved for residents, while others—brand new—have been rebuilt to open up this densely populated and cultivated region. In some places, the lava flow slightly diverted, sparing some properties that logically should have disappeared. Now, they’re encircled by a massive cooled lava field. In other spots, twisted and charred metal scraps or greenhouse remains protrude from the lava—all that’s left of the former banana plantations. A little higher up, you can see the slightly smoking crater of Tajogaite, responsible for this disaster. Back to Casa Barreros.
View of Los Llanos and, in the background, the 2021 lava flow
Friday, February 23
Though the sky was still blue, the temperature had dropped due to a chilly wind. By midday, it still rose to 22°C. Today, we headed north, specifically to the town of Tijarafe, where a very narrow road descends to the small port, Porís de Candelaria. The 3.7-kilometer road drops 700 meters in elevation, with gradients up to 30%—it was going to be intense! Indeed, the descent was scary, with the void right next to the very narrow road where passing was impossible except at a few rare spots. Everything went well—there was little traffic at this early hour. From the parking lot at the bottom, a path leads to Porís de Candelaria. It’s surprising to see this small fishing hamlet nestled in the shelter of an immense cave opening onto the sea, which was quite rough today. The sun, at this time of year, would appear late in the cave, which remained in shadow for much of the day. We returned via the same road, strolled through the small town of Puntagorda, and had lunch at El Jardín de los Naranjos restaurant—excellent meal.
Fishing hamlet of Candelaria
Saturday, February 24 The air was still cool, but the sun was beautiful. While Monique stayed home to rest, the three of us headed to the village of Las Tricias to hike the Buracas Caves trail. We left the car parked on the LP1 road and took the small paved road down to the sign marking the trail’s start. The signage for all the trails we took here, as in La Gomera, was very well done. The path descended steadily, then more steeply toward the caves where the island’s first inhabitants lived—some petroglyphs are still visible in certain caves. The path then climbed back up, passing magnificent dragon trees and more or less elaborate huts occupied by Germans who’ve lived here for many years. Back at Casa Barreros for some rest.
Sunday, February 25 The weather once again blessed us with a beautiful day. This morning, we visited the local produce market held on weekends in Puntagorda. You’ll find agricultural products, crafts, and food to keep you going. A little further on, there’s a glass viewpoint overlooking the barranco plunging toward the sea, with a view of the thrill-seekers trying the zip line right next to it. Lunch at Naranjos—definitely a good spot—with their shrimp and spice tagliatelle. Back home for an afternoon of relaxation.
Monday, February 26 We left Arecida under a cloudy sky. Driving up from Los Llanos de Aridane toward the east, an enormous cascade of clouds poured from the mountain peaks into the Los Llanos plain—very impressive. Arriving in Santa Cruz, we went for a stroll, did some last-minute shopping, then had a final good-quality paella at La Chalana on the paseo maritimo. We left the car in the parking lot and took the 5 PM Olsen ferry to Tenerife on a slightly choppy sea, but the ferry didn’t rock too much. Arriving at 7:15 PM, we dropped off our things near the port in our reserved apartment and went for dinner at Abordo—rubbery chipirones. A digestive stroll among the ever-increasing number of tourists in Los Cristianos—restaurants were packed to the brim, the season is in full swing here. Gone is the calm of La Gomera and La Palma, and the laid-back tourism of German hikers among whom a few French were hiding!
Tuesday, February 27 To make our homemade breakfast more enjoyable, we went to buy pastries at the local bakery, then took one last walk on the paseo along the beaches, mingling with the many mobility scooters driven by elderly or disabled people, joggers, and tourists. Last apéro near the bus station, then off to the airport. After a smooth 4-hour-30-minute flight, we arrived in Basel-Mulhouse at 10:20 PM.
THE END
Conclusion A fantastic trip to two islands with magnificent and diverse nature, where landscapes range from desert-like to tropical depending on exposure to winds and clouds. Thanks to the many beautiful viewpoints, you can truly appreciate these exceptionally dynamic reliefs. A hiker’s paradise, the trails are all very well marked, though the choice of easy or moderate paths for "casual walkers" is quite limited. Another notable advantage, in our opinion, is that these islands are very lightly developed—you’ll hardly see any of those ugly hotel blocks that spoil the landscapes of some other Canary Islands. It’s true that the beaches on these two islands don’t meet traditional international tourism criteria: they’re small, with black sand, and often difficult to access. Special mention for the quality of the road network (except for a few small local roads), which seems brand new, well-paved, and well-signposted. We also enjoyed exceptional weather for February, with fewer than three days of gray or rainy weather out of 21.
Almost all the accommodations we chose met or exceeded our expectations, often at reasonable prices: an average of 98 € per night for an apartment or house with two bedrooms for four people.
All photos can be viewed by clicking this link: https://photos.app.goo.gl/G44pPk4g9PW1rNzg8
Tuesday, February 6 We left around 9 AM with our car, along with Pierre-Paul and Patricia, heading to the Bluepark parking lot in Bartenheim. As expected, we were awaited and left promptly for EuroAirport Basel. Took off at 12:25 PM for a 4-hour-15-minute flight under excellent conditions. Beautiful arrival in Tenerife with Teide in sight under a clear blue sky. Fifteen minutes later, we waited for bus No. 40 to Los Cristianos with quite a few other tourists, but we managed to find four seats. From the bus station, it was a 20-minute walk to our hotel. We checked into a lovely apartment for the four of us, complete with all the comforts. Outside, it was quite warm—at least 25°C! After dropping off our luggage, we went for a stroll. The immediate surroundings of the hotel held no interest for us: a modern, concrete area filled with hotels, bars, tourist agencies, and unappealing restaurants all offering the same bland international cuisine. Pat went to cool off at the pool, unfortunately overrun by loud, drunk English tourists. I took a walk to the paseo maritimo that leads to the port, skirting the seafront. The promenade was pleasant, but it could have been any seaside resort in the world—same old scene: a succession of bars with blaring music where many elderly people sipped cold beers waiting for the sunset, the backdrop a wall of resort-style hotels resembling rabbit hutches! Upon reaching the port, I scouted the route we’d take the next day to the Fred Olsen ferry. Back at the apartment, in the early evening, we looked for a non-touristy restaurant for dinner. Monique stopped a woman to ask her opinion! In this area, she told us, there’s no restaurant that serves Canarian or Spanish cuisine! The only place with decent restaurants is at the port. Off we went to the port, where we sat down at Al Bordo restaurant and ordered a seafood paella for four. Excellent, and at a very reasonable price (36 € for two). We returned to the hotel along the seafront.
Wednesday, February 7
Woke up at 6 AM. Had breakfast in the apartment with what we’d bought the day before at a supermarket. It was still dark when we left on foot toward the port, walking along the calm seafront at this early hour. Forty minutes later, we arrived and waited 10 minutes before the ferry docked. At 9:30 AM, we left the port of Los Cristianos for a 50-minute crossing on a calm sea under a beautiful blue sky. There were quite a few people on this large ferry, but many had no luggage, meaning they were visiting La Gomera for the day and would take the ferry back in the evening. Upon disembarking, we went straight to our rental car agency to pick up the car we’d booked online a few months earlier. It was a nice Peugeot 2008, spacious enough for the four of us and our luggage. We immediately took the beautiful road from San Sebastián that climbs directly into the mountains toward our rental in Vallehermoso. The road was in perfect condition—it seemed brand new, like all the others we’d take on this island later. This side of the island is very arid with little vegetation, and the terrain is particularly rugged, as it is throughout the island. We stopped at our first miradors, which would be followed by many more throughout our Canarian trip. Our first visit was to the small village of Agulo, perched on a promontory above the sea and at the foot of a high cliff. The village features typical Canarian houses with windows flush with the façade and black volcanic stone masonry on white or reddish-brown walls. The first recommended restaurant was already booked for a group, so we settled for the shaded terrace of the excellent El Alameda bar-restaurant. From Agulo, you can access the Abrante viewpoint via a winding road, where the view of Agulo, 600 meters below, is exceptional. A glass ledge over the void lets you test your fear of heights!
We drove to Vallehermoso to do our grocery shopping at the supermarket—a habit that would continue until the end of the trip. Our little house, "Casa rural El Encatadora," is located in a beautiful flower-filled valley a few kilometers west of Vallehermoso. Each of us had a bedroom with an en-suite bathroom, plus a living room, kitchen, and a small terrace overlooking the quiet street at the valley’s end, which didn’t bother us at all.
Thursday, February 8 The good weather seemed to follow us since our arrival in the Canary Islands. This morning, we took the road—still as beautiful and new—toward Arure, high up to the west. The landscape was magnificent, with breathtaking glimpses of the sea far below. In Arure, we parked in front of Conchita’s bar, where a hike (Rother No. 30) starts toward two viewpoints: Alojera, which we reached after 45 minutes on a lovely path. Monique, tired from the first steep climb, stopped at the first viewpoint and hitchhiked back to Arure. Meanwhile, we continued toward the second viewpoint, Los Barranquillos, where the view of the surroundings was partially hidden by misty clouds rising from the sea. The entire mountain is sculpted by ancient, endless terraces climbing until the slope becomes too steep for construction—visible traces of the hard work of past inhabitants trying to survive in a harsh environment. We had a decent lunch at La Conchita bar, then drove to the small seaside town of Puerto la Caleta, sheltered by an immense cliff plunging into the sea. Black sand beach, rough sea—despite our encouragement, Pat didn’t dare to swim! As for the old village of Caleta, it’s perched on the mountainside, and visiting it requires climbing steep, stair-filled alleys to discover a few traditional houses. Back at the casa, dinner in, and card games...
VallehermosoFriday, February 9 This morning, the sky was overcast, and the peaks around us were shrouded in clouds. We took the same road as yesterday to hike Las Creces. Quickly gaining altitude, we entered a thick fog—visibility was very limited. We stopped at the Las Creces parking lot; visibility improved, and the sun wasn’t far off. The hike is entirely within a beautiful laurel forest, with the sun playing hide-and-seek, but it wasn’t cold despite the altitude. After finishing the loop trail, we decided to picnic—not there, as it was too chilly—but on Vallehermoso’s beach, where we found a nice picnic area sheltered by large black rocks. A short digestive walk on the surrounding hill to admire the little beach from above. Back in Vallehermoso, we did some grocery shopping, then tried to return to the casa—only to find ourselves locked out because we’d left the key in the lock inside! After several attempts and with the help of Yéli, a relative of the owner we called for help, we were finally able to get back in!
Saturday, February 10
It rained last night, and the sky remained overcast. Monique decided to rest this morning. PP, Pat, and I set off on the hike that starts from the house toward the Marichal reservoir. The sun wasn’t far off, and by 11 AM, it was fully out. The pleasant hike passed by many flower-filled gardens and orchards—orange, lemon, and mandarin trees in fruit. The path climbed gently toward the reservoir, where the view of the Cano rock dominating the landscape was magnificent. The last part of the climb was a bit tough, overgrown with lush vegetation, and the trail was slippery from last night’s rain. We descended via a different, much more pleasant path and returned to the casa just in time for lunch, prepared by Monique. This valley is rich with its many farmers and market gardeners who’ve cultivated the entire valley, taking advantage of the water flowing down from the mountain, captured upstream and redistributed through countless pipes snaking along the paths. Numerous tanks also store water during dry periods. The houses are scattered across both sides of the valley, and these colorful little homes add a beautiful touch to the landscape. The many palm trees give this valley a distinctly tropical feel—you could almost imagine yourself in the Caribbean. Add to that some salsa music drifting from a hut where farmers were working, and the picture is complete. A well-chilled beer apéro capped off a lovely morning. The afternoon was dedicated to rest, relaxation, reading, and games.
Sunday, February 11 The blue sky returned, though a few clouds still capped the highest peaks. Today, we visited Garajonay National Park, which covers the highest central mountains. Up there, we were above the clouds, and the panoramas from the various viewpoints were stunning: first, Cherelepin, accessible from the Laguna Grande parking lot, then Alto de Garajonay, offering an exceptional view of Teide—over 3,000 meters high—emerging from the clouds on Tenerife, far in the distance. We continued to the Los Roques viewpoints, then stopped for lunch at the Degollada de Peraza restaurant, where the view of the barranco was impressive. We descended toward San Sebastián and checked into our new lodging, La Cabezada, located in the countryside about 3 km above San Sebastián. It’s a small apartment adjacent to the owner’s, with a lovely terrace overlooking the surrounding mountains and surrounded by a beautiful garden. Apéro, then dinner on our beautiful terrace.
Monday, February 12 This morning, we went down to visit San Sebastián de La Gomera: its old tower, main street with some beautiful traditional houses, and the Church of the Assumption. Back at the casa for lunch. In the afternoon, Pat, PP, and I set off on the short hike from San Sebastián beach to La Guancha beach. We drove down and parked on the beach. The path climbs along the hill overlooking San Sebastián, passes by the tall Christ statue dominating the landscape, and roughly follows the coast down to the isolated Guancha beach. A beautiful hike under a hot sun, and a swim was welcome, even if the beach and sea access weren’t very comfortable due to large pebbles and quickly deepening water. Apart from two nudist bathers, there was no one on this beach. We returned the same way.
Tuesday, February 13 Rest day. We went down to town to stroll and do some shopping. I took the opportunity to visit the parador, beautifully situated above the city in a lovely garden overlooking the port and town. Together, we went for a cuba libre at the "Cuba Libre" bar, then had lunch at Breñusca (mediocre paella!). Back at the casa, then we went back down to town to see a carnival parade, a "passacalles," which actually passed an hour earlier than scheduled. Oh well.
Wednesday, February 14 Each to their own program this morning. Pat went swimming at San Sebastián beach, Monique rested at the casa, and PP and I set off on the hike from Playa de Avalos to the Ermita de Guadalupe on Playa del Cangrejo. It wasn’t easy to find the right road or the parking spot, but we managed. The path seemed to have suffered landslides, according to a sign at the trailhead! We decided to check it out, ready to turn back if it seemed too dangerous. In the end, apart from one or two slightly tricky spots where we had to climb a pile of rocks, the trail remained passable, though a bit vertigo-inducing in places. The narrow path clings to very vertical cliffs nearly 300 meters above sea level! But what a magnificent view. At one point, the trail runs alongside a wall of basaltic pipes. We returned via the drivable track that parallels the trail a bit lower. Back at the house for lunch. In the late afternoon, we returned to town to attend the "Entierro de las Sardinas" (Burial of the Sardine), which closes the Canarian carnival festivities. While waiting, we strolled through the parador’s gardens and had mojitos in town. Around 9 PM, we heard the noise and cries of the mourners. The procession advanced, led by a large papier-mâché sardine on a float, surrounded by wailing mourners. The procession headed toward the sea, where the sardine was burned, and a mini fireworks display ended the procession. It was all very good-natured, and everyone had fun. We ended the evening with dinner at a good fish restaurant, El Pajar.
Entierro de la Sardina in San Sebastián de La GomeraThursday, February 15
Woke up at 5:15 AM. The only suitable ferry was at 7 AM, which would get us to La Palma by late morning rather than evening. We packed our bags, had breakfast, then headed to the port, left our rental car, and boarded the ferry to Tenerife, from where we’d continue to La Palma. Calm sea, beautiful sun—by 10:30 AM, we disembarked in La Palma. We picked up our car and immediately headed to our new apartment in Breña Alta. It’s a large apartment with a superb terrace facing the sea, fully equipped and very comfortable. The hosts recommended Casa Goyo restaurant, near the airport and close to us. It’s a restaurant with many small rooms, some of which can be reserved for families. The fish-based cuisine (chipirones, pulpo) was excellent, hearty, and reasonably priced. Since it’s in the airport’s flight path, we occasionally heard planes landing. Quick and efficient service. Afterward, we visited Santa Cruz de La Palma, which reminded us of the historic quarters of La Orotava in Tenerife or the capital of Gran Canaria.
Friday, February 16
Beautiful weather, blue sky. We headed to the San Bartolo viewpoint toward the northeast coast, then to the lovely village of San Andrés, which we explored. From there, we walked along the shore to the natural pools of Charco Azul, where we swam in the cool but "swimmable" sea. Back in San Andrés for lunch at the "San Andrés" restaurant on the beautiful church square. Very good fish-based meal. We got back in the car and continued along the north coast to the port of Espindola and the natural pools of Fajana near the Cumplida lighthouse. A fairly strong wind whipped up beautiful waves crashing onto the rocky coast in bursts of foam. Back in Santa Cruz, we stopped at the Mercadona supermarket to buy fresh shrimp for dinner.
San AndrésSaturday, February 17
Uniform blue sky, even on the heights. We took the beautiful road that winds up to the summit of the Caldera de Taburiente. Several viewpoints offer 360° views of the entire island and beyond: you can make out La Gomera, El Hierro, and, of course, Tenerife with the perfect triangle of Teide. We parked at the Los Andes viewpoint parking lot and started our hike to Pico de la Cruz along a trail following the ridge, offering superb views into the caldera. We got back in the car and passed by the Roque de los Muchachos astronomical complex, composed of numerous observatories, some with very aesthetic mirror telescopes. We hiked from the Roque de los Muchachos parking lot to the various viewpoints, always as impressive. Picnic on site, then back to Santa Cruz. We stopped by our car dealer because the oil warning light came on—better safe than sorry. The representative reassured us but preferred to give us a Fiat Cross SUV instead.
The Caldera de TaburienteSunday, February 18 The weather was a bit mixed, with cloudy patches. We set off to hike the Barranco de la Cuba de Galga. Unfortunately, the Los Tilos trail had been closed for several months due to a major landslide. The parking lot by the road was already quite full, and indeed, we crossed paths with many hikers along the way—it’s an easy hike with little elevation gain, which is rare here in La Palma! The beautiful path winds through a very narrow, deep gorge covered in lush tropical vegetation—you’d think you were in a Southeast Asian forest, especially with the humidity in the gorge bringing out earthy and floral scents. Halfway through, Monique turned back while the rest of us continued to the Cuba de Galga. A light drizzle accompanied us on the return. For lunch, we went to Chipi Chipi restaurant in the heights of Santa Cruz. The cool air forced us to leave the lovely terrace for the slightly noisy dining room. The meal was very good and hearty. Afternoon spent resting at our house.
La Cuba de la GalgaMonday, February 19 A few clouds still clung to the nearby mountain peaks. We headed south to Los Canarios. We stopped in front of the small San Antonio Abad church, where a path leads to the viewpoint in 15 minutes. Then we visited the San Antonio Volcano Interpretation Center and climbed to the viewpoint via the trail along the crater’s edge, offering a plunging view into the crater. Then PP, Pat, and I headed toward the Teneguía volcano but turned back given the remaining distance and the intense heat bearing down on us! Plus, the landscape was rather arid and not very interesting. We got back in the car and drove down to the salt flats at the island’s southern tip. The ocean crashes here in large waves, exploding against the volcanic rocks and feeding a "blowhole" carved into the rock. We stopped for drinks at the salt flats restaurant, then headed home.
The salt flats in FuencalienteTuesday, February 20 Beautiful weather with a few clouds clinging to the mountains, as usual. A relaxed morning since my parking reservation at La Cumbrecita didn’t start until 1 PM. It takes about 30 minutes from Santa Cruz to reach the valley floor via a beautiful but narrow road toward the end, though there’s very little traffic. Meanwhile, the clouds had disappeared, and the view from the La Cumbrecita viewpoint was superb. We recognized Pico de la Cruz in the distance, where we’d been a few days earlier. We then took the path leading to the Las Chozas viewpoint through a magnificent Canarian pine forest. We picnicked on site, then took the path to the Los Roques viewpoint. We returned the same way since the direct route was closed for construction. Back in Santa Cruz, we visited the Sanctuary of Las Nieves, with its beautiful golden Baroque altar.
Hike from La CumbrecitaWednesday, February 21 After packing our things and loading the car, we left Santa Cruz under a very blue sky for Los Llanos de Aridane, where we stopped to visit this lovely town. The Church of Nuestra Señora de los Remedios has a beautiful coffered ceiling and an original papier-mâché Christ statue from the 16th century. Around it, colorful old Canarian houses brighten the streets of the town center. We took the opportunity to stroll, do some shopping, and finally sat down at La Pergola restaurant for a mediocre lunch. We got back in the car to check into our new house in Arecida. On the way, we stopped at the Mirador del Time, which once again offered an impressive panorama, allowing us—for the first time—to see the damage caused by the Tajogaite volcano eruption in 2021. You can clearly see the still-smoking crater and the large black lava flow covering the landscape down to the sea. We really liked our new accommodation: a local house that’s been renovated on the heights of Arecida, not far from the Canarian pine forest. From several terraces, we have a 360° view of the sea and mountains. We even have a private pool! There are two beautiful, brand-new bedrooms, each with its own bathroom—the best. Plus, we’re on the GR 131 trail that runs along the Barranco de las Angustias toward the northeast.
Los Llanos de AridaneThursday, February 22 Once again, beautiful weather greeted us when we woke up. We started the GR 131 with the goal of reaching the Torre del Time viewpoint—about 400 meters of elevation gain. The path, quite steep at first, winds through a superb Canarian pine forest. A few viewpoints let you appreciate the sheer drop of the Barranco de las Angustias—watch out for vertigo! At the Torre del Time viewpoint, there’s a nearly 1,000-meter vertical drop. We returned via another path, the PLP1, which meanders first through this beautiful forest, then along lovely flower-filled gardens adjacent to beautiful properties that cascade from the forest down to the road serving these neighborhoods. This afternoon, we tried to get closer to the area devastated by the 2021 lava flows. Several roads are still closed or reserved for residents, while others—brand new—have been rebuilt to open up this densely populated and cultivated region. In some places, the lava flow slightly diverted, sparing some properties that logically should have disappeared. Now, they’re encircled by a massive cooled lava field. In other spots, twisted and charred metal scraps or greenhouse remains protrude from the lava—all that’s left of the former banana plantations. A little higher up, you can see the slightly smoking crater of Tajogaite, responsible for this disaster. Back to Casa Barreros.
View of Los Llanos and, in the background, the 2021 lava flowFriday, February 23
Though the sky was still blue, the temperature had dropped due to a chilly wind. By midday, it still rose to 22°C. Today, we headed north, specifically to the town of Tijarafe, where a very narrow road descends to the small port, Porís de Candelaria. The 3.7-kilometer road drops 700 meters in elevation, with gradients up to 30%—it was going to be intense! Indeed, the descent was scary, with the void right next to the very narrow road where passing was impossible except at a few rare spots. Everything went well—there was little traffic at this early hour. From the parking lot at the bottom, a path leads to Porís de Candelaria. It’s surprising to see this small fishing hamlet nestled in the shelter of an immense cave opening onto the sea, which was quite rough today. The sun, at this time of year, would appear late in the cave, which remained in shadow for much of the day. We returned via the same road, strolled through the small town of Puntagorda, and had lunch at El Jardín de los Naranjos restaurant—excellent meal.
Fishing hamlet of CandelariaSaturday, February 24 The air was still cool, but the sun was beautiful. While Monique stayed home to rest, the three of us headed to the village of Las Tricias to hike the Buracas Caves trail. We left the car parked on the LP1 road and took the small paved road down to the sign marking the trail’s start. The signage for all the trails we took here, as in La Gomera, was very well done. The path descended steadily, then more steeply toward the caves where the island’s first inhabitants lived—some petroglyphs are still visible in certain caves. The path then climbed back up, passing magnificent dragon trees and more or less elaborate huts occupied by Germans who’ve lived here for many years. Back at Casa Barreros for some rest.
Sunday, February 25 The weather once again blessed us with a beautiful day. This morning, we visited the local produce market held on weekends in Puntagorda. You’ll find agricultural products, crafts, and food to keep you going. A little further on, there’s a glass viewpoint overlooking the barranco plunging toward the sea, with a view of the thrill-seekers trying the zip line right next to it. Lunch at Naranjos—definitely a good spot—with their shrimp and spice tagliatelle. Back home for an afternoon of relaxation.
Monday, February 26 We left Arecida under a cloudy sky. Driving up from Los Llanos de Aridane toward the east, an enormous cascade of clouds poured from the mountain peaks into the Los Llanos plain—very impressive. Arriving in Santa Cruz, we went for a stroll, did some last-minute shopping, then had a final good-quality paella at La Chalana on the paseo maritimo. We left the car in the parking lot and took the 5 PM Olsen ferry to Tenerife on a slightly choppy sea, but the ferry didn’t rock too much. Arriving at 7:15 PM, we dropped off our things near the port in our reserved apartment and went for dinner at Abordo—rubbery chipirones. A digestive stroll among the ever-increasing number of tourists in Los Cristianos—restaurants were packed to the brim, the season is in full swing here. Gone is the calm of La Gomera and La Palma, and the laid-back tourism of German hikers among whom a few French were hiding!
Tuesday, February 27 To make our homemade breakfast more enjoyable, we went to buy pastries at the local bakery, then took one last walk on the paseo along the beaches, mingling with the many mobility scooters driven by elderly or disabled people, joggers, and tourists. Last apéro near the bus station, then off to the airport. After a smooth 4-hour-30-minute flight, we arrived in Basel-Mulhouse at 10:20 PM.
THE END
Conclusion A fantastic trip to two islands with magnificent and diverse nature, where landscapes range from desert-like to tropical depending on exposure to winds and clouds. Thanks to the many beautiful viewpoints, you can truly appreciate these exceptionally dynamic reliefs. A hiker’s paradise, the trails are all very well marked, though the choice of easy or moderate paths for "casual walkers" is quite limited. Another notable advantage, in our opinion, is that these islands are very lightly developed—you’ll hardly see any of those ugly hotel blocks that spoil the landscapes of some other Canary Islands. It’s true that the beaches on these two islands don’t meet traditional international tourism criteria: they’re small, with black sand, and often difficult to access. Special mention for the quality of the road network (except for a few small local roads), which seems brand new, well-paved, and well-signposted. We also enjoyed exceptional weather for February, with fewer than three days of gray or rainy weather out of 21.
Almost all the accommodations we chose met or exceeded our expectations, often at reasonable prices: an average of 98 € per night for an apartment or house with two bedrooms for four people.
All photos can be viewed by clicking this link: https://photos.app.goo.gl/G44pPk4g9PW1rNzg8
Conseil pour taille cadre Surly LHT grande taille English translation pending
Bonjour à tous,
J’aimerai m’équiper d’un vélo me permettant un usage quotidien et des randonnées bivouac sur quelques jours comme j’aime le faire. J’ai également l’envie de faire le tour de la Méditerranée avec ce vélo. Je pense donc acheter un vélo robuste et fiable.
Mon choix s’oriente vers le Surly LHT, surtout que j’ai trouvé une belle occasion sur LBC. Je vais l’essayer mais vu la distance, j’aimerai bien avoir un avis avant. Le vélo est un cadre 62 roue 26’. J’ai peur que le cadre soit trop grand pour moi. Avez-vous des conseils à ce sujet ?
Je mesure 1m91 avec un entrejambe de …( je le mesure ce soir 😊) Le dernier vélo sur lequel je me suis senti à l’aise était un Trek FX3 XL
Dans l’attente de votre retour, belle journée à tous.
J’aimerai m’équiper d’un vélo me permettant un usage quotidien et des randonnées bivouac sur quelques jours comme j’aime le faire. J’ai également l’envie de faire le tour de la Méditerranée avec ce vélo. Je pense donc acheter un vélo robuste et fiable.
Mon choix s’oriente vers le Surly LHT, surtout que j’ai trouvé une belle occasion sur LBC. Je vais l’essayer mais vu la distance, j’aimerai bien avoir un avis avant. Le vélo est un cadre 62 roue 26’. J’ai peur que le cadre soit trop grand pour moi. Avez-vous des conseils à ce sujet ?
Je mesure 1m91 avec un entrejambe de …( je le mesure ce soir 😊) Le dernier vélo sur lequel je me suis senti à l’aise était un Trek FX3 XL
Dans l’attente de votre retour, belle journée à tous.
Choix de cadre acier cause douleur aux cervicales (à vélo) English translation pending
Bonjour,
Lors de mes recherches sur le net je suis tombé plusieurs fois sur ce forum donc je me suis dit que ce serait intéressant d'y demander de bons conseils.
Après 3 années à partir en vacances avec nos Peugeot ns pliant et la volonté d'utiliser le moins possible la voiture nous avons décidé d'investir dans des vélos un peux plus sérieux, histoire d'aller encore plus loin avec plus d'efficacité !
Je trouve en occaz un ktm pour ma femme, cadre alu roues de 700 et fourche télescopique avec tous les œillets qui vont bien pour recevoir de l'équipement plus tard. Pour moi je trouve un bmc alpen challenge à 40mn de chez moi à un bon prix et sur place je succombe à cette beauté. Frein à disque hydraulique, cadre alu, roue 700, Shimano 105.... Bref une belle bête !
Sauf que finalement c'est un bout de bois et qu'après chaque sortie je ressent des douleurs aux cervicales. J'ai joué sur tout ce que j'ai pu pour m'y faire, raccourcie la potence avec un angle plus grand, ajouté des cornes, joué sur différents réglages de selle mais rien n'y fait. J'en conclue donc que le soucis ne vient peut être pas de la position plutôt sportive sur ce vélo mais bien le retour des chocs dans directement dans mes cervicales !
Nous envisageons de faire une partie de la Loire à vélo l'année prochaine et je ne me voit pas partir avec le bmc.
Maintenant ce que j'en pense : à 43 ans j'ai été un peu prétentieux de prendre ce type de vélo hyper urbain pour finalement faire un peu de chemin.
Maintenant les solutions et c'est là que j'ai besoin de vos conseils : soit je revend le bmc et je me retrouve un vélo moins typé sportif, soit je trouve un kit cadre et je dépouille le bmc qui est bien équipé.
Cahier des charges : pour une utilisation mixte chemin + ou- roulant/ petite route à 20km/h maxi. En priorité je veux du confort, de bons freins car j'ai ma petite derrière moi, de quoi poser des sacoches avant par la suite, et un budget plutôt serré (disons 300/400e pour un kit cadre que je retrouverai en partie en revendant le bmc) ou 600/700e pour un vélo complet.
Voilà vous savez tout, j'attends vos avis et vos expériences pour m'aider dans mes choix.... Merci !
On part en vadrouille dans les Balkans! English translation pending
Et bien le confinement a de beaux jours devant lui ! Chose promise, chose due (publier une journée de vadrouille par jour de confinement) ! Après le carnet sur un voyage aux Etats-Unis (voyageforum.com/...-americain-d9943984/), après le carnet sur une vadrouille en Jordanie (https://voyageforum.com/discussion/on-part-en-vadrouille-en-jordanie-d9991360/), voici maintenant un carnet dans les balkans, voyage réalisé il y a maintenant quelques années :
Et on garde les bonnes habitudes, publication d'une journée par jour, à chaque fois à 17h30 ! Bonne lecture et n'hésite pas à laisser un commentaire, une question, une remarque, ...
Franck
Et on garde les bonnes habitudes, publication d'une journée par jour, à chaque fois à 17h30 ! Bonne lecture et n'hésite pas à laisser un commentaire, une question, une remarque, ...
Franck
Le premier jour English translation pending
Nous sommes le xx xx xxxx, jour de votre déconfinement, vous êtes guéri ou n'avez jamais été en contact avec le virus couronné.
Qu'imaginez-vous faire en premier ? 😛
(Par simplicité, nous allons partir du principe que votre région est redevenue comme avant à défaut du monde.)
(Par simplicité, nous allons partir du principe que votre région est redevenue comme avant à défaut du monde.)
Off to explore Jordan!
Well, since the lockdown is dragging on, I’m starting a new travel journal following the one I finished publishing yesterday:
https://voyageforum.com/discussion/voyage-pays-perles-voyage-dans-ouest-americain-d9943984/
This time, after the U.S., we’re heading to the Middle East—Jordan!
And we’re keeping up the good habits: one day’s entry published every day at 5:30 PM! Happy reading, and feel free to leave a comment, question, or remark...
Franck
Franck