Results for "Cesme+|+123+>+233"
7660 results found.
Un sourire ne coûte rien! English translation pending
Une petit pensée a appliquer ici ou en voyage......
Un sourire ne coute rien et produit beaucoup😊 Il enrichit ceux qui le recoivent😊 Sans appauvrir ceux qui le donnent😊 Il ne dure qu'un instant😊 Mais son souvenir est parfois eternel😊 Personne n'est assez riche pour s'en passer😊 Personne n'est assez pauvre pour ne pas le mériter😊 Il crée le bonheur au foyer, soutient les affaires😊 Il est le signe sensible de l'amitié😊 Un sourire donne du repos à l'être fatigué😊 Rend du courage aux plus decouragés😊 Il ne peut ni s'acheter, ni se preter, ni se voler😊 Car c'est une chose qui n'a de valeur Qu'a partir du moment où elle se donne😊 Et si quelquefois vous rencontrez une personne qui ne sait plus avoir le sourire😊 Soyez généreux, donnez lui le votre😊 Car nul n'a autant besoin d'un sourire que celui qui ne peut en donner aux autres....🙂
MOHANDAS KARAMCHAND GANDHI
🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂
Un sourire ne coute rien et produit beaucoup😊 Il enrichit ceux qui le recoivent😊 Sans appauvrir ceux qui le donnent😊 Il ne dure qu'un instant😊 Mais son souvenir est parfois eternel😊 Personne n'est assez riche pour s'en passer😊 Personne n'est assez pauvre pour ne pas le mériter😊 Il crée le bonheur au foyer, soutient les affaires😊 Il est le signe sensible de l'amitié😊 Un sourire donne du repos à l'être fatigué😊 Rend du courage aux plus decouragés😊 Il ne peut ni s'acheter, ni se preter, ni se voler😊 Car c'est une chose qui n'a de valeur Qu'a partir du moment où elle se donne😊 Et si quelquefois vous rencontrez une personne qui ne sait plus avoir le sourire😊 Soyez généreux, donnez lui le votre😊 Car nul n'a autant besoin d'un sourire que celui qui ne peut en donner aux autres....🙂
MOHANDAS KARAMCHAND GANDHI
🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂
Laos avec un enfant English translation pending
bonjour a toutes et a tous
Que pensez vous d'un voyage au Laos avec un enfant? Merci pour vos avis
Que pensez vous d'un voyage au Laos avec un enfant? Merci pour vos avis
Une fille en rouge et or... English translation pending
Au pied d’un genévrier, les doigts de pied en bouquet de violettes.
Une fille en rouge et or traverse un champ de luzerne. Un vieil homme irrigue ses champs, l’eau… la vie, pain et fourrage assurés. Au bord de la séguia une femme danse sur un pierre plate, une épaisse mousse grise sous ses pieds. Burnous et couvertures seront propres ce soir. Comme un frisbee lancé d’un coin du ciel, un grand rollier bleu plane au ras de l’eau. Panique chez les libellules. Des enfants pèchent dans la rivière. Immobiles ça et là, des mulets hument la brise déjà chaude et parfumée.
C’est jour de souk. Jaky se charge des achats. Je bulle et médite sur les hauteurs d’Anergui, loin du chahut, loin du chaos et de mes repères d’occidental qui sont ici bien superflus. Loin des rumeurs de la ville où l’on ne peut que partager son temps entre des rêves sublimes et la routine souvent monotone du quotidien. Loin du vacarme qui prétend nous faire honte de vouloir savoir plus du printemps, des ruisseaux, des couleurs, des nuages que des potins de l’art, de la mode ou de la littérature et des cours de la bourse.
La brillante lumière d’automne qui baignait le versant ouest et le fond de la vallée depuis le lever du jour, gagne peu à peu la barrière du Mourik face à la maison. Elle dévoile insidieusement dans la pente le relief et les détails masqués jusque-là dans le gris brumeux du contre jour. Ravins, corniches, pierriers, vires, thuyas centenaires et genévriers noueux suspendus dans le vide, accrochés désespérément à la moindre faille, apparaissent graduellement.
Je me laisse aller facilement à la contemplation, cette « écriture de l’esprit que nul ne lira jamais, même à l’aide d’un scanner ». Formule dont je ne revendique pas la paternité.
Le maïs est à hauteur d’homme. C’est la fin d’une tranche de vie commencée il y a cinq mois. Blé et orge sont engrangés. Les vallées sont au repos dans l’attente de la deuxième récolte.
Deux chiens se parlent dans le lointain. La caravane ne passe pas. Heureusement car ils aboient toute la nuit. Toutes les nuits. Mais on s’y fait ! C’est comme le beurre rance, pourtant triste souvenir, fondu, diversement épicé et bien relevé au piment, j’ai fini par apprécier. Même au petit déjeuner ! Et puis il y a les mouches… auxquelles on ne se fait pas. Génocide au torchon. Fuite. Elles reviennent. Insecticide. Chute, agonie bourdonnante. Je ne pleure pas la mort. Mortes. Et puis le soleil. Sieste ! Ne reste que le corps à l’ombre. La tête est partie, dans les rêves, loin dans les centigrades.
Un carnet sous la main, j’écris. J’écris je ne sais quoi. Des mots pour le temps qui passe, qui ne donne sa force qu’à ceux qui ont du temps à vivre. Pas à pleurer. Les os sont au repos et l’esprit en paix. Et pourtant, bientôt sera pour moi le temps du souvenir ; le son lourd des taadlount, un sourire, des yeux de braise un soir de fête, les couleurs des écheveaux de laine au soleil, les aboiements des chiens dans la nuit, les chants des lavandières, les feux des campements, la volupté de la fumée portée par les étoiles, une théière sur les braises, les parfum de timija, les rires d’enfants dans la rivière, le retour des troupeaux au coucher du soleil, l’appel à la prière. Mais aussi la mort qui emporte les enfants malades ou les mères mal accouchées car c’était écrit … dans les nuages, dans le cours des rivières, dans les saisons et les étoiles. Mektoub.
Il est dix heures du matin et du haut de mon observatoire je sens déjà tafouït annoncer clairement ses intentions : briller haut et fort jusqu’à la prière du soir ; la dernière des cinq incantations quotidiennes, et autant d’invitations à la prosternation face au soleil levant. Des scènes devant lesquelles je ne peux rester insensible même si je suis persuadé de l’inutilité concrète de cet acte dans le devenir de ces êtres reclus, et dans le même temps ne cesse de m’étonner de leur crédulité et de leur simplicité. Et si c’était la foi, cette foi si profonde qui leur faisait supporter leur indigence comme s’il s’agissait d’un don du « Tout puissant » ?
Questionnements, sensations diverses, profondes émotions. Cent cinquante jours d’une tranche de vie hors du commun, de notre commun. Redécouverte de la générosité, de l’humilité, de la simplicité. Humblement, faire ou voir, pétrir le pain, moissonner, labourer, laver la laine fraîchement tondue, filer, tisser, chanter, servir le thé…
Nous avons vécu ici des jours précieux, oubliant le temps futur et ses incertitudes. Que de visages marqués par le temps, la dureté de l’existence sur cette terre oubliée par le commandeur des croyants et ses serviteurs, soumis à ses lois, sans se poser de questions car la réponse existe avant la question : Mektoub.
Et malgré tout que de sourires chaleureux. Jamais vu tant de sourires, de rires, sur toutes les lèvres d’un soleil levant à l’autre ; fascination des regards pleins des lueurs de la vie.
Alors j’écris « Vie », toujours, dans tout ce qui m’entoure. dans les objets, les êtres et leurs gestes. Dans la couleur des tapis sur les métiers à tisser. Dans la mélodie d’une flûte aux lèvres d’un berger. Dans la brise chaude qui te prend parfois dès l’aube. Dans les épis dorés sur les aires de battage. Dans un ballet de flamants roses sur les eaux sombres d’un lac. Dans les chants quotidiens sortis de toutes les bouches, moissonneurs, muletier, tisseuse, lavandière, laboureur ou chercheuse d’eau.
Dans…
Mais le périple prend fin.
Trois jours, trois nuits encore avant de réapprendre à matérialiser le temps qui passe, retrouver les principes élémentaires de notre société et toutes les contraintes oubliées durant ce séjour dans les montagnes berbères. Dans trois jours nous quitterons cette vallée pour « l’ autre monde ». Notre « vagabondage » s’achève là où il commença, dans cette vallée d’Anergui où les hommes ont choisi la liberté intérieure dans la soumission à la nature, au ciel et parfois à Dieu. Mais seul ce dernièr saurait conduire leur destinée, pourvu qu’on y croie et qu’on lui fît confiance… « l’année prochaine la récolte sera meilleure. Inch Allah. »
De plaisir en générosité, de partage en offrandes, nous vivions ensemble, citoyens du monde, comme des frères. La paix, le calme n’ont cessé de nous accompagner durant cette aventure merveilleuse. Corps et esprit rassasiés, je regagnerai la ville avec force et sérénité. Fini l’insouciance, l’errance. Resteront les images, l’amitié, les émotions, comme mille et un témoins, si besoin était, de ces moments vécus pleinement. Vécus au présent.
Le rollier s’est posé sur le pin voisin, il s’est secoué, reposé quelques secondes, puis il est reparti, éclair bleu à travers les branches. Il n’a même pas pensé à chanter un petit peu. Dommage. Peut-être était-il pressé d’aller chanter ailleurs, sur une autre terre où l’homme aurait perdu l’espoir.
Va ! … les hommes et les femmes d’Anergui espèrent encore en la terre nourricière, et d’autres oiseaux d’autres couleurs entretiennent cet espoir. La hauteur des blés aussi.
Et dans cet espoir vibrent les rouges, les safrans, le gris-bleu des regards quand le khôl est présent, le noir, le vert ou le grenat des habits des femmes et des filles … autant de fleurs dans les champs …
Et les sourires … à vendre mulet et sac à dos pour constituer la dot.
Trois jours, trois nuits encore, "encore", pas "seulement", qui fileront comme l’eau de source entre les doigts. Tu ne te rends compte de rien et déjà la main est vide sans que la soif soit apaisée. Alors il faudra recommencer. Replonger dans cette eau claire et froide.
Mais les sources sont trop rares...
Que revienne le temps du souvenir. Que revienne vite le temps de l'errance.
La fille en rouge et or quitte son champ de luzerne.
Je jette ce crayon pour toujours…
Une fille en rouge et or traverse un champ de luzerne. Un vieil homme irrigue ses champs, l’eau… la vie, pain et fourrage assurés. Au bord de la séguia une femme danse sur un pierre plate, une épaisse mousse grise sous ses pieds. Burnous et couvertures seront propres ce soir. Comme un frisbee lancé d’un coin du ciel, un grand rollier bleu plane au ras de l’eau. Panique chez les libellules. Des enfants pèchent dans la rivière. Immobiles ça et là, des mulets hument la brise déjà chaude et parfumée.
C’est jour de souk. Jaky se charge des achats. Je bulle et médite sur les hauteurs d’Anergui, loin du chahut, loin du chaos et de mes repères d’occidental qui sont ici bien superflus. Loin des rumeurs de la ville où l’on ne peut que partager son temps entre des rêves sublimes et la routine souvent monotone du quotidien. Loin du vacarme qui prétend nous faire honte de vouloir savoir plus du printemps, des ruisseaux, des couleurs, des nuages que des potins de l’art, de la mode ou de la littérature et des cours de la bourse.
La brillante lumière d’automne qui baignait le versant ouest et le fond de la vallée depuis le lever du jour, gagne peu à peu la barrière du Mourik face à la maison. Elle dévoile insidieusement dans la pente le relief et les détails masqués jusque-là dans le gris brumeux du contre jour. Ravins, corniches, pierriers, vires, thuyas centenaires et genévriers noueux suspendus dans le vide, accrochés désespérément à la moindre faille, apparaissent graduellement.
Je me laisse aller facilement à la contemplation, cette « écriture de l’esprit que nul ne lira jamais, même à l’aide d’un scanner ». Formule dont je ne revendique pas la paternité.
Le maïs est à hauteur d’homme. C’est la fin d’une tranche de vie commencée il y a cinq mois. Blé et orge sont engrangés. Les vallées sont au repos dans l’attente de la deuxième récolte.
Deux chiens se parlent dans le lointain. La caravane ne passe pas. Heureusement car ils aboient toute la nuit. Toutes les nuits. Mais on s’y fait ! C’est comme le beurre rance, pourtant triste souvenir, fondu, diversement épicé et bien relevé au piment, j’ai fini par apprécier. Même au petit déjeuner ! Et puis il y a les mouches… auxquelles on ne se fait pas. Génocide au torchon. Fuite. Elles reviennent. Insecticide. Chute, agonie bourdonnante. Je ne pleure pas la mort. Mortes. Et puis le soleil. Sieste ! Ne reste que le corps à l’ombre. La tête est partie, dans les rêves, loin dans les centigrades.
Un carnet sous la main, j’écris. J’écris je ne sais quoi. Des mots pour le temps qui passe, qui ne donne sa force qu’à ceux qui ont du temps à vivre. Pas à pleurer. Les os sont au repos et l’esprit en paix. Et pourtant, bientôt sera pour moi le temps du souvenir ; le son lourd des taadlount, un sourire, des yeux de braise un soir de fête, les couleurs des écheveaux de laine au soleil, les aboiements des chiens dans la nuit, les chants des lavandières, les feux des campements, la volupté de la fumée portée par les étoiles, une théière sur les braises, les parfum de timija, les rires d’enfants dans la rivière, le retour des troupeaux au coucher du soleil, l’appel à la prière. Mais aussi la mort qui emporte les enfants malades ou les mères mal accouchées car c’était écrit … dans les nuages, dans le cours des rivières, dans les saisons et les étoiles. Mektoub.
Il est dix heures du matin et du haut de mon observatoire je sens déjà tafouït annoncer clairement ses intentions : briller haut et fort jusqu’à la prière du soir ; la dernière des cinq incantations quotidiennes, et autant d’invitations à la prosternation face au soleil levant. Des scènes devant lesquelles je ne peux rester insensible même si je suis persuadé de l’inutilité concrète de cet acte dans le devenir de ces êtres reclus, et dans le même temps ne cesse de m’étonner de leur crédulité et de leur simplicité. Et si c’était la foi, cette foi si profonde qui leur faisait supporter leur indigence comme s’il s’agissait d’un don du « Tout puissant » ?
Questionnements, sensations diverses, profondes émotions. Cent cinquante jours d’une tranche de vie hors du commun, de notre commun. Redécouverte de la générosité, de l’humilité, de la simplicité. Humblement, faire ou voir, pétrir le pain, moissonner, labourer, laver la laine fraîchement tondue, filer, tisser, chanter, servir le thé…
Nous avons vécu ici des jours précieux, oubliant le temps futur et ses incertitudes. Que de visages marqués par le temps, la dureté de l’existence sur cette terre oubliée par le commandeur des croyants et ses serviteurs, soumis à ses lois, sans se poser de questions car la réponse existe avant la question : Mektoub.
Et malgré tout que de sourires chaleureux. Jamais vu tant de sourires, de rires, sur toutes les lèvres d’un soleil levant à l’autre ; fascination des regards pleins des lueurs de la vie.
Alors j’écris « Vie », toujours, dans tout ce qui m’entoure. dans les objets, les êtres et leurs gestes. Dans la couleur des tapis sur les métiers à tisser. Dans la mélodie d’une flûte aux lèvres d’un berger. Dans la brise chaude qui te prend parfois dès l’aube. Dans les épis dorés sur les aires de battage. Dans un ballet de flamants roses sur les eaux sombres d’un lac. Dans les chants quotidiens sortis de toutes les bouches, moissonneurs, muletier, tisseuse, lavandière, laboureur ou chercheuse d’eau.
Dans…
Mais le périple prend fin.
Trois jours, trois nuits encore avant de réapprendre à matérialiser le temps qui passe, retrouver les principes élémentaires de notre société et toutes les contraintes oubliées durant ce séjour dans les montagnes berbères. Dans trois jours nous quitterons cette vallée pour « l’ autre monde ». Notre « vagabondage » s’achève là où il commença, dans cette vallée d’Anergui où les hommes ont choisi la liberté intérieure dans la soumission à la nature, au ciel et parfois à Dieu. Mais seul ce dernièr saurait conduire leur destinée, pourvu qu’on y croie et qu’on lui fît confiance… « l’année prochaine la récolte sera meilleure. Inch Allah. »
De plaisir en générosité, de partage en offrandes, nous vivions ensemble, citoyens du monde, comme des frères. La paix, le calme n’ont cessé de nous accompagner durant cette aventure merveilleuse. Corps et esprit rassasiés, je regagnerai la ville avec force et sérénité. Fini l’insouciance, l’errance. Resteront les images, l’amitié, les émotions, comme mille et un témoins, si besoin était, de ces moments vécus pleinement. Vécus au présent.
Le rollier s’est posé sur le pin voisin, il s’est secoué, reposé quelques secondes, puis il est reparti, éclair bleu à travers les branches. Il n’a même pas pensé à chanter un petit peu. Dommage. Peut-être était-il pressé d’aller chanter ailleurs, sur une autre terre où l’homme aurait perdu l’espoir.
Va ! … les hommes et les femmes d’Anergui espèrent encore en la terre nourricière, et d’autres oiseaux d’autres couleurs entretiennent cet espoir. La hauteur des blés aussi.
Et dans cet espoir vibrent les rouges, les safrans, le gris-bleu des regards quand le khôl est présent, le noir, le vert ou le grenat des habits des femmes et des filles … autant de fleurs dans les champs …
Et les sourires … à vendre mulet et sac à dos pour constituer la dot.
Trois jours, trois nuits encore, "encore", pas "seulement", qui fileront comme l’eau de source entre les doigts. Tu ne te rends compte de rien et déjà la main est vide sans que la soif soit apaisée. Alors il faudra recommencer. Replonger dans cette eau claire et froide.
Mais les sources sont trop rares...
Que revienne le temps du souvenir. Que revienne vite le temps de l'errance.
La fille en rouge et or quitte son champ de luzerne.
Je jette ce crayon pour toujours…
Livre: "Aux voyageurs du monde" English translation pending
Bonjour à tous les voyageurs du monde! :-)
J'ai une suggestion de livre très intéressant à vous faire: "Aux voyageurs du monde" écrit par Geneviève Clastres
Vous pouvez trouvez ce livre à Paris, Lyon, Rennes, Toulouse, Fougères et Saint-Malo aux adresses suivantes: La cité des voyageurs
55, rue Sainte Anne 75002 Paris tél: 01.42.86.16.00.
5, quai Jules Courmont 69002 Lyon tél: 04.72.56.94.56.
2, rue Jules Simon BP 10206 35102 Rennes Cedex tél: 02.99.79.16.16.
26, rue des Marchands 31000 Toulouse tél: 05.34.31.72.72.
19, rue Châteaubriand 35300 Fougères tél: 02.99.94.21.91.
17, avenue Jean Jaurès BP 206 35409 Saint Malo Cedex tél: 02.99.40.27.27.
P.S.: Ce livre m'a coûté a l'époque 60F
Bonne lecture à tous!
J'ai une suggestion de livre très intéressant à vous faire: "Aux voyageurs du monde" écrit par Geneviève Clastres
Vous pouvez trouvez ce livre à Paris, Lyon, Rennes, Toulouse, Fougères et Saint-Malo aux adresses suivantes: La cité des voyageurs
55, rue Sainte Anne 75002 Paris tél: 01.42.86.16.00.
5, quai Jules Courmont 69002 Lyon tél: 04.72.56.94.56.
2, rue Jules Simon BP 10206 35102 Rennes Cedex tél: 02.99.79.16.16.
26, rue des Marchands 31000 Toulouse tél: 05.34.31.72.72.
19, rue Châteaubriand 35300 Fougères tél: 02.99.94.21.91.
17, avenue Jean Jaurès BP 206 35409 Saint Malo Cedex tél: 02.99.40.27.27.
P.S.: Ce livre m'a coûté a l'époque 60F
Bonne lecture à tous!
Votre avis mon itinéaire en Afrique du Sud English translation pending
😉 Bonjour à tous,
Ca y est ... On est décidé (entre ce choix cornélien : Kenya ou Afrique du Sud) ... Ce sera South Africa.
Nous avons vu un circuit qui nous paraît attrayant ... votre avis ... Sera le bienvenu.
Circuit 16 jours.
Entre janvier et mars 04 (votre avis sur la période nous interesse beaucoup) Johannesburg : (possibilité d'aller à Gold Reef City ?) Pretoria Parc Kruger (Parc + Parc de Blyde River - Pilgrim's rest) Swaziland Damazulu Parc Hluhluwe Bergville Drakensberg (le parc Royal du Natal) Port Elisabeth (Mossel Bay - Oudthoorn - Nature's Valley - Outeniqua choo-Tjoe train - Featherberd Island) Cape Town (Swellendam - La route des vins - Montagne de la table et le cap de bonne espérance)Ensuite retour ... (Ben! Oui!)
Le circuit peut être précédé par un passage au Zimbabwe (mais alors c'est 20 jours) : Harare Parc National de Matobo Victoria FallsVos expériences sont les bienvenues ...
PS : est-ce qu'au cap ... Il ya moyen d'aller voir les requins ?
Merci et à bientôt, j'espère.
Ca y est ... On est décidé (entre ce choix cornélien : Kenya ou Afrique du Sud) ... Ce sera South Africa.
Nous avons vu un circuit qui nous paraît attrayant ... votre avis ... Sera le bienvenu.
Circuit 16 jours.
Entre janvier et mars 04 (votre avis sur la période nous interesse beaucoup) Johannesburg : (possibilité d'aller à Gold Reef City ?) Pretoria Parc Kruger (Parc + Parc de Blyde River - Pilgrim's rest) Swaziland Damazulu Parc Hluhluwe Bergville Drakensberg (le parc Royal du Natal) Port Elisabeth (Mossel Bay - Oudthoorn - Nature's Valley - Outeniqua choo-Tjoe train - Featherberd Island) Cape Town (Swellendam - La route des vins - Montagne de la table et le cap de bonne espérance)Ensuite retour ... (Ben! Oui!)
Le circuit peut être précédé par un passage au Zimbabwe (mais alors c'est 20 jours) : Harare Parc National de Matobo Victoria FallsVos expériences sont les bienvenues ...
PS : est-ce qu'au cap ... Il ya moyen d'aller voir les requins ?
Merci et à bientôt, j'espère.
Playa Pesquero - nager avec les dauphins English translation pending
Bonjour,
Je pars pour Playa Pesquero le 5 avril prochain.
J'aimerais savoir commbien coûte l'excursion pour nager avec les dauphins.
Aussi quelles autres excusions puis-je faire?
Celles à faire et celles à éviter.
Merci
Merci
Partir seule mais jeune!! English translation pending
bonjour à toutes, j éspère que vos experiences pourront m'aider .
j ai 19 ans et j ai déjà beaucoup voyagé de plusieurs manières :, campings, auberge de jeunesse, hôtels, sac à dos, valise, amis, famille, à 2 ou à 6, à pied, en van, en autocar, en voiture, en avion, en bateau, avec très peu d'argent ou un peu plus etc.
Mais aujourd'hui ça se corse : je souhaite partir seule en avril d'abord puis cet été (etc.) et j'aimerai entendre des temoignages de filles d'environ 20 ans et encore plus si cela concerne les pays suivants : Pologne, Rép Tchèque, Slovaquie, Hongrie, Autriche, Slovénie, Croatie ( seulement le nord-est ), Bulgarie, Ukraine, Georgie et Islande .
merci bien sûr et vive vos conseils ou idées ! ( encore mieux si vous avez des contacts fiables à me communiquer .;)
j ai 19 ans et j ai déjà beaucoup voyagé de plusieurs manières :, campings, auberge de jeunesse, hôtels, sac à dos, valise, amis, famille, à 2 ou à 6, à pied, en van, en autocar, en voiture, en avion, en bateau, avec très peu d'argent ou un peu plus etc.
Mais aujourd'hui ça se corse : je souhaite partir seule en avril d'abord puis cet été (etc.) et j'aimerai entendre des temoignages de filles d'environ 20 ans et encore plus si cela concerne les pays suivants : Pologne, Rép Tchèque, Slovaquie, Hongrie, Autriche, Slovénie, Croatie ( seulement le nord-est ), Bulgarie, Ukraine, Georgie et Islande .
merci bien sûr et vive vos conseils ou idées ! ( encore mieux si vous avez des contacts fiables à me communiquer .;)
What to see and do in Banja Luka?
Hi there,
After booking an Airbnb last January for this summer’s vacation in Sarajevo... My "host" canceled our reservation without any reason—this has never happened to me before.
Of course, now it’s impossible to find a place to stay at a "normal" price in Sarajevo with parking... So we’re falling back on the capital of the Republika Srpska, Banja Luka, which had already crossed my mind before I booked Sarajevo.
I already have quite a few ideas in mind, without having dug too deep into the region yet. But if anyone has already been there and has suggestions? Even for restaurants—I’m all ears!
And even if it’s not right next door, I’m planning to spend a day in Sarajevo!
Of course, now it’s impossible to find a place to stay at a "normal" price in Sarajevo with parking... So we’re falling back on the capital of the Republika Srpska, Banja Luka, which had already crossed my mind before I booked Sarajevo.
I already have quite a few ideas in mind, without having dug too deep into the region yet. But if anyone has already been there and has suggestions? Even for restaurants—I’m all ears!
And even if it’s not right next door, I’m planning to spend a day in Sarajevo!
Northern Vietnam Trip Report
Hi there,
I’ve found so many tips and reviews on this forum, so it’s my turn to contribute a little.
We spent just over two weeks with our family, with the following itinerary:
- Hanoi: 5 days
- Halong Bay: 3 days and 2 nights
- Tam Coc: 3 days
- Mai Chau: 2 days
- Sapa: 3 days
We got around by bike, scooter, Grab, and bus.
Our main accommodations were homestays and hotels in Hanoi.
We visited lots of museums, temples, and neighborhoods in Hanoi.
We did a 2-day, 1-night trek in Sapa with May, a Hmong local, without going through an agency.
A few small regrets: the weather was overcast, and we couldn’t make it to Fansipan, but nothing major 😅. We also couldn’t find transport to get from Sapa to Mu Cang Chai.
Other than that, this trip will stay in our memories for the kindness of the Vietnamese people, the connections we made, the food (street food, homestays...), the coffee 😋, the landscapes, and how easy it was to get around...
Our goal was to take our time and focus only on a small part of northern Vietnam.
If you need any tips or recommendations, don’t hesitate to ask.
Looking forward to hearing from you.
Cédric.
3 weeks in Laos, stress-free
Come along, I'm taking you to this country where it's so nice to wander and slow down...This trip was in 2023, but when I wanted to write my travel journal, VF was still closed to contributions... So, now that I've just finished my Japan travel journal here, I figured it was high time to honor this destination we came back from so enchanted. Disclaimer 1: This is a written travel journal. There’ll be text! Too much, for some! Disclaimer 2: This is an illustrated travel journal. There’ll be photos! Too many, for some!
I have to say, every time I try to discipline myself, to keep it shorter, to include fewer photos... I end up adding more. It feels like my dear Aunt Nicole, who exhausted us with her slide-show evenings in the 70s/80s, decided to take her revenge. The upside for you, readers, is that you can slip away anytime without offending Aunt Nicole. I won’t even notice!
Anyway, since I love maps, here’s one to give you an idea of where I’m taking you. As you can see, we only saw a tiny part of Laos (the areas circled in red); we only had 3 weeks for ourselves (my husband’s newly retired, I still work), and we prefer taking our time over rushing around like crazy.
In broad strokes, it was very classic:
First, we “settled in” at Luang Prabang (8 days), because we wanted and needed to. From there, we took three days to venture a little further north—not far in kilometers, but as we know, distances aren’t just about km! Then we flew south to Paksé, letting ourselves drift down to the 4,000 Islands while stopping by the pre-Angkorian archaeological sites. We wrapped up with the Bolaven Plateau.
A few practical notes: We arrived via Bangkok, then took a Bangkok-Luang Prabang flight, having picked up our luggage in Bangkok to check it in for Luang Prabang. No issues—the Bangkok airport, which many of you know, is very well organized. We got our visas on arrival in Luang Prabang. Quick, but to be fair, we were on a “small” plane, and the big flights had arrived earlier, so we weren’t too crowded in line! At the end of our trip, we didn’t fly out of Paksé but from the nearby airport in Thailand, Ubon Ratchathani (a 2.5-hour drive from Paksé), then Bangkok and Paris. You’ll notice we skipped Vientiane to stay longer in Luang Prabang. That said, there’s now a high-speed train between Vientiane and Luang Prabang—good to know—and soon the (Chinese) train will go all the way to Bangkok and even Kuala Lumpur!
With that intro out of the way, let’s dive into the heart of the matter. To be continued: Slowing down the pace... in Luang Prabang
Back to Swedish Lapland: Trekking the Kungsleden and Crossing Sarek
Summer 2022 left me with a sense of unfinished business, so here I am back in Swedish Lapland for summer 2024, ready to attempt the Sarek crossing again—and this time, tackle part of the Kungsleden too.
After much hesitation, my partner Jean Marie and I decided to start with the Kungsleden, which is, from what we’ve read, stunning but very busy (and it really is!!), and finish with the wilder option: SAREK! This park is known as Europe’s last true wilderness—sounds like a dream, right?! The downside of this plan is that there’s no way to resupply in Sarek, and the Kungsleden isn’t exactly set up for long-distance trekking either, so we’ll have to carry a lot of food for the first part of the trip with Sarek in mind. Oh well, we’re motivated!
Our plan is to start in Abisko (the classic route), head to Vakkotavare (also classic, but with some variations to avoid the official trail and the crowds), then continue the Kungsleden from Saltoluokta. Before reaching Aktse, we’ll set off on an east-to-west crossing of Sarek (weather-dependent, since aside from the Skarja hut in the center of the park, there’s no shelter if conditions turn bad). At least we’ll be on the right side of the park to climb Skierfe and enjoy the jaw-dropping view of Rappaladen if we have to bail on Sarek.
All in all, that’s 17 days of trekking, including 1 rest day and 1 buffer day for weather delays.
So if you’re interested, I invite you to follow our fully packed backpacks!
08/03 - Abisko – 5km before Abiskojaure Some info (guides we used for prep, SFT map, sending food to Saltoluokta) 08/04 – 5km before Abiskojaure - on the east shore of Lake Alisjavri 08/05 – East shore of Lake Alisjavri – just before Tjaktja 08/06 – Just before Tjaktja – above the Salka hut via Nallo 08/07 - Salka – just past Singi + side trip to Djalson Lake 08/08 - Singi – Teusajaure 08/09 - Teusajaure - Vakkotavare (end of the first section of the Kungsleden) 08/10 – rest day in Saltoluokta + round trip to the Sámi village of Pietjaure 08/11 – Saltoluokta – Sitojaure 08/12 - Sitojaure - Skierfe - Sarek or no Sarek? 08/13 – Skierfe – somewhere above Rapadalen 08/14 – Somewhere above Rapadalen – above the Skarki hut 08/15 – Above the Skarki hut - Skarja 08/16 – Camping at Skarja 08/17 – Ruohtesvagge 08/18 – Ruohtesvagge - Padjelantaleden 08/19 – Padjelantaleden - Ritsem – End of the trek 08/20–24 - End of the trip (Lullea - Stockholm) And of course, the recap
After much hesitation, my partner Jean Marie and I decided to start with the Kungsleden, which is, from what we’ve read, stunning but very busy (and it really is!!), and finish with the wilder option: SAREK! This park is known as Europe’s last true wilderness—sounds like a dream, right?! The downside of this plan is that there’s no way to resupply in Sarek, and the Kungsleden isn’t exactly set up for long-distance trekking either, so we’ll have to carry a lot of food for the first part of the trip with Sarek in mind. Oh well, we’re motivated!
Our plan is to start in Abisko (the classic route), head to Vakkotavare (also classic, but with some variations to avoid the official trail and the crowds), then continue the Kungsleden from Saltoluokta. Before reaching Aktse, we’ll set off on an east-to-west crossing of Sarek (weather-dependent, since aside from the Skarja hut in the center of the park, there’s no shelter if conditions turn bad). At least we’ll be on the right side of the park to climb Skierfe and enjoy the jaw-dropping view of Rappaladen if we have to bail on Sarek.
All in all, that’s 17 days of trekking, including 1 rest day and 1 buffer day for weather delays.
So if you’re interested, I invite you to follow our fully packed backpacks!
08/03 - Abisko – 5km before Abiskojaure Some info (guides we used for prep, SFT map, sending food to Saltoluokta) 08/04 – 5km before Abiskojaure - on the east shore of Lake Alisjavri 08/05 – East shore of Lake Alisjavri – just before Tjaktja 08/06 – Just before Tjaktja – above the Salka hut via Nallo 08/07 - Salka – just past Singi + side trip to Djalson Lake 08/08 - Singi – Teusajaure 08/09 - Teusajaure - Vakkotavare (end of the first section of the Kungsleden) 08/10 – rest day in Saltoluokta + round trip to the Sámi village of Pietjaure 08/11 – Saltoluokta – Sitojaure 08/12 - Sitojaure - Skierfe - Sarek or no Sarek? 08/13 – Skierfe – somewhere above Rapadalen 08/14 – Somewhere above Rapadalen – above the Skarki hut 08/15 – Above the Skarki hut - Skarja 08/16 – Camping at Skarja 08/17 – Ruohtesvagge 08/18 – Ruohtesvagge - Padjelantaleden 08/19 – Padjelantaleden - Ritsem – End of the trek 08/20–24 - End of the trip (Lullea - Stockholm) And of course, the recap
"Glory": an Animal Farm for Zimbabwe—and the world
"400 pages of verbal pyrotechnics and animal magic" — The Times
"Bulawayo leans into exaggeration and irony to tell hard truths. *Glory* is jam-packed with comedy and farce, poking fun at an autocratic regime while illustrating the absurdity and surreal nature of a police state." — The Guardian
The cruelty and savagery of Zimbabwe’s (and Africa’s in general) "powerful animals"
Zimbabwean author NoViolet Bulawayo has written a novel that illustrates better than any documentary the complexity of colonial legacy. In doing so, she revisits George Orwell’s Animal Farm. Her novel *Glory* is a political satire about Zimbabwe—and it’s brimming with humor.
For thirty years, Zimbabwe has been stagnating under Robert Mugabe’s presidency. Human rights violations, corruption, and international sanctions have kept the population mired in poverty and oppression, while the regime exploits the meager earnings of the economy. As the 2017 elections approach, a power struggle erupts over the succession of the very elderly Father of the Nation (Mugabe). On the streets, people hope for long-awaited reforms; the people feel their moment has come.
And indeed, the army ousts Mugabe and his wife—"with her Gucci heels" (p.32)—who was positioning herself for the presidency. Hopes are dashed, however. The generals install former vice-president Emmerson Mnangagwa in power; the regime merely changes faces, but the problems remain the same.
In the novel, the country is called "Jidada, with a -da and another -da" (p.1); there’s no mistaking that this fictional state is Zimbabwe.
For *Glory*, her second novel, NoViolet Bulawayo invents a whole series of codes whose strength lies precisely in how easy they are to decipher. Like George Orwell’s Animal Farm, the characters populating Bulawayo’s universe aren’t humans but horses, goats, or crocodiles with all-too-human traits. Mugabe and Mnangagwa are horses, the spiritual leader is a pig, the soldiers are all bloodthirsty dogs, while the populace consists of goats, chickens, donkeys, and cats. The shift to the animal world serves only to better grasp the laws of despotism—and to ridicule real-life models. On one hand, the animals are humanized: they tweet, torture, travel in private jets. On the other, their greed, stupidity, and brutality stem from their animal nature.
It’s the old trick of fable: dressing men in animal disguises to make them easier to recognize. That’s how Orwell, in Animal Farm, traced how the promise of liberation from the Russian Revolution turned into Stalinist terror. In his 1945 fable, George Orwell describes how the animals of a farm drive out their farmer to organize the exploitation themselves, collectively. For a time, they truly taste freedom, but a clique of pigs ends up taking control. The central figures of the Soviet story—Stalin, Trotsky, Molotov—were easily recognizable.
Yet Bulawayo departs sharply from Orwell. She’s less concerned with precision and the force of argument than with satirical exaggeration. The deposed president is a senile old man who believes he can control even the sun’s course. The new stallion in power is a greedy debaucher. His soldiers sniff respectfully at his tail and backside.
In Bulawayo’s *Glory*, things are more complicated, but her novel also tells of a failed, incomplete liberation. In the author’s Animal Farm, Jidada, the colonial exploiters are followed by new forms of oppression. Because the former liberators become tyrants themselves. And because global power dynamics persist in neocolonial structures.
Wouldn’t that be enough to fuel a deeply depressing narrative? No—Bulawayo turns it into a blazing satire, full of wit and uncompromising criticism of power, a thread running through contemporary (not just) Zimbabwean history. The old warhorses in NoViolet Bulawayo’s Jidada, who continue to act as pack leaders, are easily recognizable as caricatures of the longtime dictator Robert Mugabe and his successor, current president Emmerson Mnangagwa.
The plot kicks off in high gear with independence day festivities. From the crack of dawn, everyone waits on Jidada Square for the Old Horse, the Father of the Nation and former liberator, whose reign "was nearing all of—not one, not two, not three, but four solid decades" (p.1). Everywhere, the colors of the Jidada Party shine; everywhere, true supporters cheer. Even the scorching sun plays its part: "At this point the sun, upon seeing arrive the leader who was decreed by God himself to rule and rule and keep ruling, a leader who'd in turn decreed the very sun to head his cheerleading squad, took a deep, deep breath and thoroughly blazed to impress" (p.2).
Finally, the Old Horse’s luxury carriage approaches "with the slowness of a hearse" (p.2), and "hoping to catch a glimpse of the legendary Father of the Nation," which causes "the animals fell over themselves like intoxicated frogs" (p.2). The sovereign’s speech is delayed a moment longer: "what I really want is a nap," groans the Old Horse as he takes his seat with such care "like his backside was made of expensive porcelain" (p.6).
Meanwhile, Bulawayo parades his entourage: the president’s wife (who earns her doctorate at Jidada University faster than "you could say diss, for dissertation. Tholukuthi it was as easy as ordering from a KFC drive-through, or perhaps even easier being that it was cheaper than KFC; it in fact cost her nothing and the degree actually came with a zero-calorie Diet Coke and a purple straw" (p.41), and she’s now known as Dr Sweet Mother. The cabinet includes "the Minister of the Revolution, the Minister of Corruption, the Minister of Order, the Minister of Things, the Minister of Nothing, the Minister of Propaganda, the Minister of Homophobic Affairs, the Minister of Disinformation and the Minister of Looting" (p.9). And of course the vice-president, who will soon become interim president when the Old Horse finally kicks the bucket—and then settle in as the new long-term president, who in the novel is called Tuvius Delight Shasha, or "Tuvy" for short (p.253), none other than Emmerson Mnangagwa. It’s him Bulawayo reserves her most merciless character description for.
"New Dispensation" (p.109) is Tuvy’s slogan for Jidada, and he loves repeating it so much he even named his parrot after it ("So inspired was Tuvy by the realisation that he rechristened his new pet parrot with the name New Dispensation—tholukuthi the bird having been acquired explicitly for the purposes of tweeting eulogies and accordingly glorifying the Saviour throughout the airs and skies of the nation. Tuvy then went on to hire a lecturer in English from the University of Jidada to teach New Dispensation to say the phrase 'New Dispensation'" p.110). But Tuvy’s Zimbabwe remains a nation without free, fair, and credible elections ("#freefairncredibleelection" p.161), and the promised equal treatment applies only insofar as Zimbabweans now queue up without discrimination in endless lines—and everyone is as poor as the next in the "queuenation" (p.283). Except for the powerful. They can "yes, tholukuthi, her immeasurable riches theirs to take. And take they did—
just take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take" (p.249-250).
In short: Bulawayo brilliantly depicts how former independence fighters become exploiters themselves. And how the country threatens to suffocate under the weight of corruption and repression. But she also literally stages the polyphony with which the people oppose imposed obedience to the official line.
Controversial online discussions keep interrupting the narrative—dialogues and social threads (see photo below) that Bulawayo masterfully integrates. From a literary standpoint, it’s a brilliant idea. And it shows, above all, that the author’s sympathy—so likeable—goes to all those who refuse to let their dream of true freedom be stolen, not even by the corrupt elites of their own country.
In the book’s acknowledgments, the first tribute goes to "The Jidadas of the world, clamouring for freedom on many fronts—A luta continua." (p.401) This reflects the realization that, not only in Jidada-Zimbabwe but in many other corners of the world, the end of colonial domination is still far from meaning the freedom hoped for by the vast majority of people. But it also means, more broadly, that this freedom must be won "on many fronts" (see above), both domestically and geopolitically.
That’s precisely what *Glory* so vividly highlights: how complex the project behind the term "postcolonialism" really is. With *Glory*, Bulawayo also delivers a scathing critique of the persistence of colonial mindsets in the West.
In the novel, the murder of George Floyd, racist police violence, and white-supremacist ideology in Trump’s United States perfectly illustrate the persistence of racism. It’s especially in the final chapters that Bulawayo lets Jidada’s inhabitants explicitly and unflinchingly criticize a neocolonial world order:
"It was not lost on us how the West, which loved to 'save' Africa and announce every action to the whole world, did so with one limb while manipulating, looting and fleecing us with the rest of its limbs so that more money in fact poured out of the continent than trickled in." (p.376)
"It was no mistake that multinational corporations yearly reaped and shipped colossal profits from Africa back to their countries as had been the case during colonial times. Even the sticks and stones would tell you that the African earth at any given time howled and shook and heaved from the extraction of its precious minerals that rarely benefited its own miserable children." (p.376)
"(...) we vowed to wage yet another war for Africa's second Liberation from neocolonial oppression. From exploitation. From plunder. From Western dominion. From indignity. From Abuse. We wanted real freedom. We wanted greedy, thieving paws off our wealth. We wanted Justice. We wanted a new world; we wanted a brand-new world so much we didn't sleep a wink that night." (p.377)
The Jidadas of this world must fight two enemies: Western neocolonialism and the autocratic instrumentalization of that argument; the persistence of Western racism and the populist appropriation of that humiliation by tyrants from their own ranks. Neither of these obstacles to freedom diminishes the historical and current guilt of the other. But the path to postcolonial liberation must overcome all these forms of oppression. After all, the colonizers didn’t bequeath democracies to formerly dominated nations, but instability and the principles of oppression and exploitation—which the so-called liberators have also internalized. Yet the fact that a satirical novel can capture the complexity of historical relationships while remaining, despite all the darkness of the subject, hilarious—well, that’s truly astonishing.
Finally, *Glory* ties into a major trauma in Zimbabwe’s post-independence history: the so-called Gukurahundi massacres. Between 1983 and 1987, tens of thousands of civilians were murdered by Mugabe’s bloody henchmen, most of them Ndebele. The State Security Minister and head of secret services at the time? You guessed it—Emmerson Mnangagwa.
When *Glory* turns to the massacres, the novel’s tone shifts completely. The story is now told through the narrative of the goat called Destiny, who, like NoViolet Bulawayo herself, left her home country at 18 for the United States and only returned after 13 years. In the book, the city of Bulawayo becomes a village where Destiny retraces her family’s history—and learns that part of it was also brutally murdered during the massacres.
The abuse of power and life under a dictatorship, dispossession, and a fiercely proud awareness of the psychological wounds and emotional vulnerability of a uprooted and disenfranchised people who had to forge a new language—a new set of names—to express their lived experiences are at the heart of this wonderful Zimbabwean author’s literary work, NoViolet Bulawayo. Shortly after her studies, she was already writing short stories about postcolonial power dynamics in Africa. But her playful, masterful, and often unconventional approach to language also plays a key role in her work. With virtuosity, she shifts from cynical images of power-obsessed elites to compassionate descriptions of the people’s suffering, ending with a hopeful sermon on courage—the courage to break free from fear and thus gain the strength for change ("And every one of them understood that whatever they heard within those hearts was the new national anthem, tholukuthi an anthem that spoke of the kind of glory that burns eternal and glows with living light." p.400). This novel is a genuine pleasure to read. And it’s exceptional. Good, African...
Book info (original English and German translation):
NoViolet Bulawayo. Glory. Chatto & Windus, 2022. NoViolet Bulawayo. Glory. Suhrkamp, 2023.
Hery
The books (in English, in German)
Author NoViolet Bulawayo, Zimbabwe
Threads (p.164-165)
"Bulawayo leans into exaggeration and irony to tell hard truths. *Glory* is jam-packed with comedy and farce, poking fun at an autocratic regime while illustrating the absurdity and surreal nature of a police state." — The Guardian
The cruelty and savagery of Zimbabwe’s (and Africa’s in general) "powerful animals"
Zimbabwean author NoViolet Bulawayo has written a novel that illustrates better than any documentary the complexity of colonial legacy. In doing so, she revisits George Orwell’s Animal Farm. Her novel *Glory* is a political satire about Zimbabwe—and it’s brimming with humor.
For thirty years, Zimbabwe has been stagnating under Robert Mugabe’s presidency. Human rights violations, corruption, and international sanctions have kept the population mired in poverty and oppression, while the regime exploits the meager earnings of the economy. As the 2017 elections approach, a power struggle erupts over the succession of the very elderly Father of the Nation (Mugabe). On the streets, people hope for long-awaited reforms; the people feel their moment has come.
And indeed, the army ousts Mugabe and his wife—"with her Gucci heels" (p.32)—who was positioning herself for the presidency. Hopes are dashed, however. The generals install former vice-president Emmerson Mnangagwa in power; the regime merely changes faces, but the problems remain the same.
In the novel, the country is called "Jidada, with a -da and another -da" (p.1); there’s no mistaking that this fictional state is Zimbabwe.
For *Glory*, her second novel, NoViolet Bulawayo invents a whole series of codes whose strength lies precisely in how easy they are to decipher. Like George Orwell’s Animal Farm, the characters populating Bulawayo’s universe aren’t humans but horses, goats, or crocodiles with all-too-human traits. Mugabe and Mnangagwa are horses, the spiritual leader is a pig, the soldiers are all bloodthirsty dogs, while the populace consists of goats, chickens, donkeys, and cats. The shift to the animal world serves only to better grasp the laws of despotism—and to ridicule real-life models. On one hand, the animals are humanized: they tweet, torture, travel in private jets. On the other, their greed, stupidity, and brutality stem from their animal nature.
It’s the old trick of fable: dressing men in animal disguises to make them easier to recognize. That’s how Orwell, in Animal Farm, traced how the promise of liberation from the Russian Revolution turned into Stalinist terror. In his 1945 fable, George Orwell describes how the animals of a farm drive out their farmer to organize the exploitation themselves, collectively. For a time, they truly taste freedom, but a clique of pigs ends up taking control. The central figures of the Soviet story—Stalin, Trotsky, Molotov—were easily recognizable.
Yet Bulawayo departs sharply from Orwell. She’s less concerned with precision and the force of argument than with satirical exaggeration. The deposed president is a senile old man who believes he can control even the sun’s course. The new stallion in power is a greedy debaucher. His soldiers sniff respectfully at his tail and backside.
In Bulawayo’s *Glory*, things are more complicated, but her novel also tells of a failed, incomplete liberation. In the author’s Animal Farm, Jidada, the colonial exploiters are followed by new forms of oppression. Because the former liberators become tyrants themselves. And because global power dynamics persist in neocolonial structures.
Wouldn’t that be enough to fuel a deeply depressing narrative? No—Bulawayo turns it into a blazing satire, full of wit and uncompromising criticism of power, a thread running through contemporary (not just) Zimbabwean history. The old warhorses in NoViolet Bulawayo’s Jidada, who continue to act as pack leaders, are easily recognizable as caricatures of the longtime dictator Robert Mugabe and his successor, current president Emmerson Mnangagwa.
The plot kicks off in high gear with independence day festivities. From the crack of dawn, everyone waits on Jidada Square for the Old Horse, the Father of the Nation and former liberator, whose reign "was nearing all of—not one, not two, not three, but four solid decades" (p.1). Everywhere, the colors of the Jidada Party shine; everywhere, true supporters cheer. Even the scorching sun plays its part: "At this point the sun, upon seeing arrive the leader who was decreed by God himself to rule and rule and keep ruling, a leader who'd in turn decreed the very sun to head his cheerleading squad, took a deep, deep breath and thoroughly blazed to impress" (p.2).
Finally, the Old Horse’s luxury carriage approaches "with the slowness of a hearse" (p.2), and "hoping to catch a glimpse of the legendary Father of the Nation," which causes "the animals fell over themselves like intoxicated frogs" (p.2). The sovereign’s speech is delayed a moment longer: "what I really want is a nap," groans the Old Horse as he takes his seat with such care "like his backside was made of expensive porcelain" (p.6).
Meanwhile, Bulawayo parades his entourage: the president’s wife (who earns her doctorate at Jidada University faster than "you could say diss, for dissertation. Tholukuthi it was as easy as ordering from a KFC drive-through, or perhaps even easier being that it was cheaper than KFC; it in fact cost her nothing and the degree actually came with a zero-calorie Diet Coke and a purple straw" (p.41), and she’s now known as Dr Sweet Mother. The cabinet includes "the Minister of the Revolution, the Minister of Corruption, the Minister of Order, the Minister of Things, the Minister of Nothing, the Minister of Propaganda, the Minister of Homophobic Affairs, the Minister of Disinformation and the Minister of Looting" (p.9). And of course the vice-president, who will soon become interim president when the Old Horse finally kicks the bucket—and then settle in as the new long-term president, who in the novel is called Tuvius Delight Shasha, or "Tuvy" for short (p.253), none other than Emmerson Mnangagwa. It’s him Bulawayo reserves her most merciless character description for.
"New Dispensation" (p.109) is Tuvy’s slogan for Jidada, and he loves repeating it so much he even named his parrot after it ("So inspired was Tuvy by the realisation that he rechristened his new pet parrot with the name New Dispensation—tholukuthi the bird having been acquired explicitly for the purposes of tweeting eulogies and accordingly glorifying the Saviour throughout the airs and skies of the nation. Tuvy then went on to hire a lecturer in English from the University of Jidada to teach New Dispensation to say the phrase 'New Dispensation'" p.110). But Tuvy’s Zimbabwe remains a nation without free, fair, and credible elections ("#freefairncredibleelection" p.161), and the promised equal treatment applies only insofar as Zimbabweans now queue up without discrimination in endless lines—and everyone is as poor as the next in the "queuenation" (p.283). Except for the powerful. They can "yes, tholukuthi, her immeasurable riches theirs to take. And take they did—
just take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take—take" (p.249-250).
In short: Bulawayo brilliantly depicts how former independence fighters become exploiters themselves. And how the country threatens to suffocate under the weight of corruption and repression. But she also literally stages the polyphony with which the people oppose imposed obedience to the official line.
Controversial online discussions keep interrupting the narrative—dialogues and social threads (see photo below) that Bulawayo masterfully integrates. From a literary standpoint, it’s a brilliant idea. And it shows, above all, that the author’s sympathy—so likeable—goes to all those who refuse to let their dream of true freedom be stolen, not even by the corrupt elites of their own country.
In the book’s acknowledgments, the first tribute goes to "The Jidadas of the world, clamouring for freedom on many fronts—A luta continua." (p.401) This reflects the realization that, not only in Jidada-Zimbabwe but in many other corners of the world, the end of colonial domination is still far from meaning the freedom hoped for by the vast majority of people. But it also means, more broadly, that this freedom must be won "on many fronts" (see above), both domestically and geopolitically.
That’s precisely what *Glory* so vividly highlights: how complex the project behind the term "postcolonialism" really is. With *Glory*, Bulawayo also delivers a scathing critique of the persistence of colonial mindsets in the West.
In the novel, the murder of George Floyd, racist police violence, and white-supremacist ideology in Trump’s United States perfectly illustrate the persistence of racism. It’s especially in the final chapters that Bulawayo lets Jidada’s inhabitants explicitly and unflinchingly criticize a neocolonial world order:
"It was not lost on us how the West, which loved to 'save' Africa and announce every action to the whole world, did so with one limb while manipulating, looting and fleecing us with the rest of its limbs so that more money in fact poured out of the continent than trickled in." (p.376)
"It was no mistake that multinational corporations yearly reaped and shipped colossal profits from Africa back to their countries as had been the case during colonial times. Even the sticks and stones would tell you that the African earth at any given time howled and shook and heaved from the extraction of its precious minerals that rarely benefited its own miserable children." (p.376)
"(...) we vowed to wage yet another war for Africa's second Liberation from neocolonial oppression. From exploitation. From plunder. From Western dominion. From indignity. From Abuse. We wanted real freedom. We wanted greedy, thieving paws off our wealth. We wanted Justice. We wanted a new world; we wanted a brand-new world so much we didn't sleep a wink that night." (p.377)
The Jidadas of this world must fight two enemies: Western neocolonialism and the autocratic instrumentalization of that argument; the persistence of Western racism and the populist appropriation of that humiliation by tyrants from their own ranks. Neither of these obstacles to freedom diminishes the historical and current guilt of the other. But the path to postcolonial liberation must overcome all these forms of oppression. After all, the colonizers didn’t bequeath democracies to formerly dominated nations, but instability and the principles of oppression and exploitation—which the so-called liberators have also internalized. Yet the fact that a satirical novel can capture the complexity of historical relationships while remaining, despite all the darkness of the subject, hilarious—well, that’s truly astonishing.
Finally, *Glory* ties into a major trauma in Zimbabwe’s post-independence history: the so-called Gukurahundi massacres. Between 1983 and 1987, tens of thousands of civilians were murdered by Mugabe’s bloody henchmen, most of them Ndebele. The State Security Minister and head of secret services at the time? You guessed it—Emmerson Mnangagwa.
When *Glory* turns to the massacres, the novel’s tone shifts completely. The story is now told through the narrative of the goat called Destiny, who, like NoViolet Bulawayo herself, left her home country at 18 for the United States and only returned after 13 years. In the book, the city of Bulawayo becomes a village where Destiny retraces her family’s history—and learns that part of it was also brutally murdered during the massacres.
The abuse of power and life under a dictatorship, dispossession, and a fiercely proud awareness of the psychological wounds and emotional vulnerability of a uprooted and disenfranchised people who had to forge a new language—a new set of names—to express their lived experiences are at the heart of this wonderful Zimbabwean author’s literary work, NoViolet Bulawayo. Shortly after her studies, she was already writing short stories about postcolonial power dynamics in Africa. But her playful, masterful, and often unconventional approach to language also plays a key role in her work. With virtuosity, she shifts from cynical images of power-obsessed elites to compassionate descriptions of the people’s suffering, ending with a hopeful sermon on courage—the courage to break free from fear and thus gain the strength for change ("And every one of them understood that whatever they heard within those hearts was the new national anthem, tholukuthi an anthem that spoke of the kind of glory that burns eternal and glows with living light." p.400). This novel is a genuine pleasure to read. And it’s exceptional. Good, African...
Book info (original English and German translation):
NoViolet Bulawayo. Glory. Chatto & Windus, 2022. NoViolet Bulawayo. Glory. Suhrkamp, 2023.
Hery
The books (in English, in German)
Author NoViolet Bulawayo, Zimbabwe
Threads (p.164-165)Travel companions for South India, Sri Lanka, or Mexico – fall 2026
Hello,
Don’t stay in the cold and damp! I’m looking for one or more people (men or women, travel companions) to spend a few weeks in South India, Sri Lanka, or Mexico
from late October 2026 to early December.
I’m Jean Pierre, 74 years old, and I manage just fine when traveling. Phone: 0389812641 Cheers, Jean Pierre
I’m Jean Pierre, 74 years old, and I manage just fine when traveling. Phone: 0389812641 Cheers, Jean Pierre
Discussion thread on the May 2026 theme: Staircases
If you’ve already posted your three photos in the contest thread Staircases: May 2026 Photo Contest Theme and a fourth one comes to mind, you can ease your staircase obsession here.
A few examples of staircases:
Some of the 6,600 steps on the staircase leading to the summit of Jade Emperor Peak at 1,545 meters.
Emergency staircase at the Orléans library (France).
Brussels street artist Créons incorporates the staircase into the dress design of his character.
The staircase is part of the roof of Villa Malaparte (Adalberto Libera) on the island of Capri (Italy).
A few examples of staircases:
Some of the 6,600 steps on the staircase leading to the summit of Jade Emperor Peak at 1,545 meters.
Emergency staircase at the Orléans library (France).
Brussels street artist Créons incorporates the staircase into the dress design of his character.
The staircase is part of the roof of Villa Malaparte (Adalberto Libera) on the island of Capri (Italy).
A whimsical taste of coming back!
I left my heart’s country eight days ago and returned to my adopted one—or was it the other way around? Scotland-Morvan, Morvan-Scotland, I’m not quite sure anymore.
After a quarter without dragging my slippers around here, even though I’d loudly declared I had no interest left in this site, here I am again!
My imagination never stays fallow for long. Just enough time for my inner land to rest. It gets overgrown with fresh nettles, the kind you can pick without getting stung. Then, it’s time to till the fragrant earth and let the story grow.
I hesitated over where to set this story. Maybe the Highlands, maybe the Hebrides, maybe the Orkney Islands, maybe the Shetland Islands. All of Scotland is myth—easy to embroider. But in the end, no. I’d almost be too afraid to bare my soul.
The story will take place at home. Simple, practical.
1)
This morning, I was up well before dawn, feeling a bit grumpy, but nothing a bowl of coffee won’t fix. I love my bowl, and no one dares take it. It’s porcelain, edged with intertwined blue flowers. On the bottom, it says "Revol." The factory has existed long before the Revolution. It was my great-grandmother’s bowl. She drank roasted barley from it during the war, then her Leroux chicory.
Last year, a little guy dropped it. My bowl broke into three pieces. A black anger vibrated deep inside me. The little boy was so upset, on the verge of tears. How could I scold him!
I picked up the three pieces and took Little Boy in my arms. His hair smelled of the light, sweet sweat of toddlers. A gentle hug that healed—his budding sorrow and my anger—everything vanished, and time carried on.
Today, my bowl is even prettier. Man fixed it using the traditional kintsugi technique, except he didn’t use gold powder or lacquer but superglue, and he delicately painted the cracks with woad blue. And my bowl is even more beautiful now.
I’m lingering, I can tell—it’s just that a story wraps itself in life, and life can’t be told in the snap of a finger. Life is long. Like in architecture, you start with a rough sketch, called a "sous-cul" (the initial pencil drawing), then you make a tracing, which is the work itself, the one you later carefully roll up in a wooden tube. Life is like that: you erase, you start over, you use the nub of the pencil until it’s tiny, but you keep going—dreaming, loving.
"Living is a full-time occupation, a unique adventure. Always a surprise and a wonder, which sometimes turns into astonishment. And, from time to time, happiness."*
Alright, enough digressing—this introduction is definitely too long. Tomorrow, I’ll get to the heart of the matter. (I hate that expression; it feels like I’m cutting into someone’s skin.)
*Jean d’Ormesson
2)
After a quarter without dragging my slippers around here, even though I’d loudly declared I had no interest left in this site, here I am again!
My imagination never stays fallow for long. Just enough time for my inner land to rest. It gets overgrown with fresh nettles, the kind you can pick without getting stung. Then, it’s time to till the fragrant earth and let the story grow.
I hesitated over where to set this story. Maybe the Highlands, maybe the Hebrides, maybe the Orkney Islands, maybe the Shetland Islands. All of Scotland is myth—easy to embroider. But in the end, no. I’d almost be too afraid to bare my soul.
The story will take place at home. Simple, practical.
1)
This morning, I was up well before dawn, feeling a bit grumpy, but nothing a bowl of coffee won’t fix. I love my bowl, and no one dares take it. It’s porcelain, edged with intertwined blue flowers. On the bottom, it says "Revol." The factory has existed long before the Revolution. It was my great-grandmother’s bowl. She drank roasted barley from it during the war, then her Leroux chicory.
Last year, a little guy dropped it. My bowl broke into three pieces. A black anger vibrated deep inside me. The little boy was so upset, on the verge of tears. How could I scold him!
I picked up the three pieces and took Little Boy in my arms. His hair smelled of the light, sweet sweat of toddlers. A gentle hug that healed—his budding sorrow and my anger—everything vanished, and time carried on.
Today, my bowl is even prettier. Man fixed it using the traditional kintsugi technique, except he didn’t use gold powder or lacquer but superglue, and he delicately painted the cracks with woad blue. And my bowl is even more beautiful now.
I’m lingering, I can tell—it’s just that a story wraps itself in life, and life can’t be told in the snap of a finger. Life is long. Like in architecture, you start with a rough sketch, called a "sous-cul" (the initial pencil drawing), then you make a tracing, which is the work itself, the one you later carefully roll up in a wooden tube. Life is like that: you erase, you start over, you use the nub of the pencil until it’s tiny, but you keep going—dreaming, loving.
"Living is a full-time occupation, a unique adventure. Always a surprise and a wonder, which sometimes turns into astonishment. And, from time to time, happiness."*
Alright, enough digressing—this introduction is definitely too long. Tomorrow, I’ll get to the heart of the matter. (I hate that expression; it feels like I’m cutting into someone’s skin.)
*Jean d’Ormesson
2)
Tanzania: Discovering Ruaha and Nyerere (formerly Selous)
Hello,
We got back from Tanzania a month ago, on March 5th. I’ve started this trip report at the link the moderator asked me to use:
https://voyageforum.com/forum/decouverte-ruaha-nyerere-ex-selous-en-fevrier-mars-2026-d11466010/
You’ll find a video of our trip on my YouTube channel there.
Now I’ll tell you about our 10-night trip in Tanzania, with 8 nights spent in two parks we didn’t know. Tanzania isn’t new to us—it was even our first African safari destination back in 2012. https://www.youtube.com/@lolodetoul54 Since then, we’ve visited several East and Southern African countries: Kenya, South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, some of them multiple times. We usually travel in September during the dry season. We tried March 2024 for nine nights in the Okavango and loved it, except everything was dry, which wasn’t normal for the rainy season.
So for this second March trip during the wet season, we really got what we asked for… rain. But before that, we had to fight just to get to Tanzania.
Saturday, February 21, 2026:
It’s D-Day—the departure. What a hassle to organize flights to and within Tanzania! I’ll tell you all about it in another post: https://voyageforum.com/forum/toutes-compagnies-aeriennes-tanzaniennes-interdites-d10758360/ On top of that, Rwandair canceled our outbound flight a month before departure. They offered to reschedule us 3-4 days later—ridiculous for a 10-night trip we’d already booked. We had to cancel our tickets and buy new ones with Kenya Airways. We’re still waiting for our refund from Rwandair!!!!!!! So on Saturday, February 1st, our bags were packed. We headed to the Lorraine TGV station, about 30 km from home.
Direct train to Roissy—just 1h15. Quick and efficient.
All that was left was to wait for our overnight flight. We took off on time, just before 11 PM. Smooth flight, nothing unusual. Arrived in Nairobi around 9 AM. A few hours’ wait, then a flight to Dar es Salaam, landing at our first destination around 12:45 PM.
Our local contact, Anne from Asanterra agency, picked us up at the airport. It was hot and humid—it was raining.
Our first night was at the Alexander Hotel. That evening, we treated ourselves to fish and shellfish at the hotel restaurant:
Sunday, February 22, 2026:
A driver picked us up at dawn to take us to the domestic airport so we could finally head to our first destination: Ruaha National Park. We flew with Auric.air for a 2-hour flight with two stops (Nyerere and Zkima airstrips).
I’m always amazed at how easily these Cessnas take off and land on dirt runways—especially when they’re wet:
Aerial view of Zkima airstrip, where we’d landed just minutes earlier:
Flyover of Iringa, a "big" city in the country near Ruaha National Park:
We’re getting close. The plane descends and flies over the Ruaha River, which gave the park its name:
We land for the third and final time that day, reaching our destination: Msembe airstrip, the gateway to Ruaha.
We got back from Tanzania a month ago, on March 5th. I’ve started this trip report at the link the moderator asked me to use:
https://voyageforum.com/forum/decouverte-ruaha-nyerere-ex-selous-en-fevrier-mars-2026-d11466010/
You’ll find a video of our trip on my YouTube channel there.
Now I’ll tell you about our 10-night trip in Tanzania, with 8 nights spent in two parks we didn’t know. Tanzania isn’t new to us—it was even our first African safari destination back in 2012. https://www.youtube.com/@lolodetoul54 Since then, we’ve visited several East and Southern African countries: Kenya, South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, some of them multiple times. We usually travel in September during the dry season. We tried March 2024 for nine nights in the Okavango and loved it, except everything was dry, which wasn’t normal for the rainy season.
So for this second March trip during the wet season, we really got what we asked for… rain. But before that, we had to fight just to get to Tanzania.
Saturday, February 21, 2026:
It’s D-Day—the departure. What a hassle to organize flights to and within Tanzania! I’ll tell you all about it in another post: https://voyageforum.com/forum/toutes-compagnies-aeriennes-tanzaniennes-interdites-d10758360/ On top of that, Rwandair canceled our outbound flight a month before departure. They offered to reschedule us 3-4 days later—ridiculous for a 10-night trip we’d already booked. We had to cancel our tickets and buy new ones with Kenya Airways. We’re still waiting for our refund from Rwandair!!!!!!! So on Saturday, February 1st, our bags were packed. We headed to the Lorraine TGV station, about 30 km from home.
Direct train to Roissy—just 1h15. Quick and efficient.
All that was left was to wait for our overnight flight. We took off on time, just before 11 PM. Smooth flight, nothing unusual. Arrived in Nairobi around 9 AM. A few hours’ wait, then a flight to Dar es Salaam, landing at our first destination around 12:45 PM.
Our local contact, Anne from Asanterra agency, picked us up at the airport. It was hot and humid—it was raining.Our first night was at the Alexander Hotel. That evening, we treated ourselves to fish and shellfish at the hotel restaurant:
Sunday, February 22, 2026:
A driver picked us up at dawn to take us to the domestic airport so we could finally head to our first destination: Ruaha National Park. We flew with Auric.air for a 2-hour flight with two stops (Nyerere and Zkima airstrips).
I’m always amazed at how easily these Cessnas take off and land on dirt runways—especially when they’re wet:
Aerial view of Zkima airstrip, where we’d landed just minutes earlier:
Flyover of Iringa, a "big" city in the country near Ruaha National Park:
We’re getting close. The plane descends and flies over the Ruaha River, which gave the park its name:
We land for the third and final time that day, reaching our destination: Msembe airstrip, the gateway to Ruaha.
Costa Rica: The dry season isn't what it used to be!
Introduction:
For years, I’ve heard about Costa Rica, which seems like a country "made for me"—nature, not cities.
I almost went in 2019, but a family issue made me cancel.
Initially, I wanted to spend at least three weeks there, planning to go in our summer despite it being the rainy season. Then I realized what I wanted to do could fit into two weeks, so I ended up going in February.
Plus, January’s weather was so awful that some sunshine should do me good.
I found a flight at a decent price, but with two downsides.
The first is that it leaves from Paris CDG, and the second is that it’s with Air France—a airline I’d sworn off after my misadventures with them back in 2008. We’ll see how it goes!
Airports in the Persian Gulf Emirates
Hi,
Right now, with the war raging in Iran and affecting all the neighboring countries of the Persian Gulf, many airports are completely closed to all traffic.
Several airlines like Qatar Airways, Emirates, and others have almost completely halted their operations.
Whether in the Middle East or Africa, many travelers are stranded—maybe for a long time... A heartfelt thought for them and the struggles this will cause.
Four months ago, I was in Kenya with a flight booked through Qatar Airways... I can’t even imagine how I’d react if I were stuck there now. ??
Wishing all these travelers courage, patience, and success in making it back home.
...
Doha Airport on October 21, 2025:
...
Right now, with the war raging in Iran and affecting all the neighboring countries of the Persian Gulf, many airports are completely closed to all traffic.
Several airlines like Qatar Airways, Emirates, and others have almost completely halted their operations.
Whether in the Middle East or Africa, many travelers are stranded—maybe for a long time... A heartfelt thought for them and the struggles this will cause.
Four months ago, I was in Kenya with a flight booked through Qatar Airways... I can’t even imagine how I’d react if I were stuck there now. ??
Wishing all these travelers courage, patience, and success in making it back home.
...
Doha Airport on October 21, 2025:
...
What's the best way to get around Northern India?
Hi,
I’m leaving this Saturday for Northern India from 15/02 to 27/02. I’m planning to visit New Delhi, Agra, Chand Baori, Jaipur, Ranthambore, Bundi, Udaipur, and Jodhpur.
What’s the best way to get around? I was thinking of doing everything by train. Maybe taking the bus for some stretches?
As for renting a car with a driver, it seems expensive, so I’ve pretty much ruled that out. Unless someone’s got space for the same dates?
Thanks for your insights!
What’s the best way to get around? I was thinking of doing everything by train. Maybe taking the bus for some stretches?
As for renting a car with a driver, it seems expensive, so I’ve pretty much ruled that out. Unless someone’s got space for the same dates?
Thanks for your insights!
Trip to Thailand and Laos
Hello! 🙂
January 2026 Here we go again for new adventures and the pleasure of sharing them with you here! First of all, I’d like to thank everyone who helped me with the preparations, even with some last-minute improvisations just days before departure. Thanks to Montagnard74, Jojoone1, Songsam, Attila, Dennis2, NadegerFERM, and the authors whose travel journals about Laos inspired me (Montagnard74, Muriel18, Mavietongs...).
In this story, written by Richard and illustrated by me, we’ll tell you about the journey of four friends: Catherine, Richard, Nathalie, and Bruno. A reinvented but overall successful trip, filled with discoveries and surprises, the scents of spices and frangipani flowers, (too) spicy food, sunsets, and... one big mess.
January 2026 Here we go again for new adventures and the pleasure of sharing them with you here! First of all, I’d like to thank everyone who helped me with the preparations, even with some last-minute improvisations just days before departure. Thanks to Montagnard74, Jojoone1, Songsam, Attila, Dennis2, NadegerFERM, and the authors whose travel journals about Laos inspired me (Montagnard74, Muriel18, Mavietongs...).
In this story, written by Richard and illustrated by me, we’ll tell you about the journey of four friends: Catherine, Richard, Nathalie, and Bruno. A reinvented but overall successful trip, filled with discoveries and surprises, the scents of spices and frangipani flowers, (too) spicy food, sunsets, and... one big mess.
Three beautiful weeks during the Japanese autumn
I’m sharing our three-week trip to Japan from late October to mid-November 2025. There were four of us—my partner and a couple of friends.
I’ve traveled often with my friend Christian (Bolivia, Argentina, Costa Rica, Namibia, Laos), but this time our partners joined us.
The rough itinerary:
Arrival in Tokyo. Visiting Shinjuku/Shibuya districts + day trip to Kamakura
5 days in the Japanese Alps, from Matsumoto to Kanazawa (via Kamikochi, Hirayu Onsen, and Takayama)
5 days in Kyoto
Nara, Osaka, Koyasan
Return to Tokyo (Asakusa district), with a day trip to Nikko
We booked our flights well in advance (9 months ahead): the flight cost 1086 € per person. Compared to over 2000 € if we’d booked for the same dates just 3 months prior.
For accommodations, we mostly used Booking.com. The onsen was booked via Japanican, and in Kyoto, we stayed in an Airbnb.
We also made 5 train reservations a month in advance on Klook or directly on the train’s website.
Day 1: Departure from Brussels (October 24, 2025) Early morning takeoff at 6 AM to Munich (1.5-hour layover) with Lufthansa, then a 12-hour flight with ANA, arriving the next morning at 7 AM at Tokyo Haneda.
Day 2: Arrival in Tokyo Airport formalities were quick. The eSIM we bought before leaving activated as soon as we landed (10 GB plan with Saily—more than enough for our mobile internet needs, mainly Google Maps and Google Translate). We’d received 4 ICOCA cards from our neighbors, which we loaded with 15000 ¥ each. We took the Keihin train, then the Yamanote Line. It’s easy to navigate since everything is in English, and each station is announced on scrolling displays in English too.
We got off the Yamanote Line at the station just after Shinjuku because it’s easier to exit that massive station with our luggage. So we ended up in Shin-Okubo, right in the Korean district. A 10-minute walk took us to Villa Fontaine Hotel. A great hotel, well-located north of the Kabukichō district. The room even seemed bigger than we’d expected.
It was 15°C, but it rained—and kept raining on and off all day. Belgian weather, basically.
We went for a walk in Shinjuku Gyoen Park. Not as pretty in the rain, but the big greenhouse was interesting.
Then our first ramen (hearty and for 1000 ¥—pretty much the price of all our ramen during the trip). We headed back to the hotel since check-in was after 3 PM. Shower and relax before going out for dinner. Dinner was barbecue at Shichirin Yakiniku Anan (1700 ¥ each—good and cheap). Ordering via tablet wasn’t easy, but luckily it was in English.
We ended the evening with a stroll through Kabukichō before a well-deserved sleep.
Day 1: Departure from Brussels (October 24, 2025) Early morning takeoff at 6 AM to Munich (1.5-hour layover) with Lufthansa, then a 12-hour flight with ANA, arriving the next morning at 7 AM at Tokyo Haneda.
Day 2: Arrival in Tokyo Airport formalities were quick. The eSIM we bought before leaving activated as soon as we landed (10 GB plan with Saily—more than enough for our mobile internet needs, mainly Google Maps and Google Translate). We’d received 4 ICOCA cards from our neighbors, which we loaded with 15000 ¥ each. We took the Keihin train, then the Yamanote Line. It’s easy to navigate since everything is in English, and each station is announced on scrolling displays in English too.
We got off the Yamanote Line at the station just after Shinjuku because it’s easier to exit that massive station with our luggage. So we ended up in Shin-Okubo, right in the Korean district. A 10-minute walk took us to Villa Fontaine Hotel. A great hotel, well-located north of the Kabukichō district. The room even seemed bigger than we’d expected.
It was 15°C, but it rained—and kept raining on and off all day. Belgian weather, basically.
We went for a walk in Shinjuku Gyoen Park. Not as pretty in the rain, but the big greenhouse was interesting.
Then our first ramen (hearty and for 1000 ¥—pretty much the price of all our ramen during the trip). We headed back to the hotel since check-in was after 3 PM. Shower and relax before going out for dinner. Dinner was barbecue at Shichirin Yakiniku Anan (1700 ¥ each—good and cheap). Ordering via tablet wasn’t easy, but luckily it was in English.
We ended the evening with a stroll through Kabukichō before a well-deserved sleep.
Review of an Aegean Sea cruise on Ponant's Bougainville from November 1-8, 2025
Hello everyone,
If you'd like, I invite you to join me for a week-long cruise to northern Greece, visiting ports that are often less crowded with cruise ships.
Itinerary: Athens, Skiathos, Volos, Thessaloniki, Kavala, Limnos, Hydra, Athens
If you'd like, I invite you to join me for a week-long cruise to northern Greece, visiting ports that are often less crowded with cruise ships.
Itinerary: Athens, Skiathos, Volos, Thessaloniki, Kavala, Limnos, Hydra, Athens
Old Burmese Adventures (oh, so many!)
Hey everyone,
Yesterday, I checked the Thailand forum to see if there were any questions to answer, but not much was happening—it was pretty quiet. Then I scrolled through the Southeast Asia section and realized that, even though Burma (Myanmar) was included, there weren’t many posts about it... I’ve only been there once, back in 1987, so it’s hard to create a photo thread about multiple trips like I sometimes do for Thailand. Still, that one trip was packed with unusual adventures, so I thought I’d share a few stories from it.
Since I didn’t take any notes at the time, this is all from memory—it’s not an exhaustive travel journal and isn’t meant to help plan a future trip to Myanmar.
Don’t expect photos; there won’t be any. I have some, but they’re slides that would need scanning and editing one by one to fix the wear and tear of time—way too much work.
The Context.
Back then (reminder: 1987), I was volunteering in Paris at the counter of a travel agency on Rue des Écoles. The agency was part of a well-known organization based in Mulhouse that mostly offered scheduled flights to Asia, charter flights to the Mediterranean, and flights to Mali with their own plane. They also had a few rare "roots"-style trips to certain destinations—trips where you didn’t bring your tennis racket but were ready to soak in everything, even if it meant tough conditions.
I’d already been to Thailand, Indonesia, and the Philippines in Asia. The director knew this, so he asked me to accompany a group to Burma. At the time, tours to Burma were already being sold by competitors, but they all had to go through the state-run agency, Touristburma (buses and hotels for tourists, and they only showed you what they wanted you to see—kind of like traveling in North Korea today). The service was only payable in dollars at the official exchange rate (which was six times worse than the black market rate, mind you...), and since it went through the state agency, all the money ended up with the junta.
My job was to do everything *without* going through Touristburma, which was completely illegal there. Nothing would be booked in advance. Back then, the Burmese visa was only valid for 8 days/7 nights, and since clients were paying for the experience, the itinerary was planned ahead. I’d have to find transport and a guide on the black market as soon as I arrived.
The clients weren’t misled—they knew from the start that the trip would be off the books, that officially we’d be a small group of friends (not an agency), unlike the truth (Touristburma wasn’t mandatory for individual travelers), and that it would be challenging. They also knew their trip would cost 3-4 times less while giving them a much better experience of Burma. As for pretending to be a group of friends, there were only six of us, so it worked out.
To cover all expenses (accommodation, transport, excursions), the agency gave me a sufficient budget. They also gave me the *same* budget a second time, which was strictly for bribing officials who might cause trouble, for backshish (tips), and, if needed, to "help" me get out of prison.
Before I left, I was thoroughly briefed by another guy who’d led the previous trip (he’d dealt with all the initial challenges). He explained everything I needed to know, what to watch out for, and advised me on what to bring as "gifts" (samples of well-known perfumes, specific cigarette and whisky brands, etc.). For the perfume samples, I rallied my family, friends, and even stores. For the rest, I’d pick things up at the duty-free shops in Don Muang (Bangkok’s only airport at the time)—I had the budget for it.
I couldn’t wait to leave...
Yesterday, I checked the Thailand forum to see if there were any questions to answer, but not much was happening—it was pretty quiet. Then I scrolled through the Southeast Asia section and realized that, even though Burma (Myanmar) was included, there weren’t many posts about it... I’ve only been there once, back in 1987, so it’s hard to create a photo thread about multiple trips like I sometimes do for Thailand. Still, that one trip was packed with unusual adventures, so I thought I’d share a few stories from it.
Since I didn’t take any notes at the time, this is all from memory—it’s not an exhaustive travel journal and isn’t meant to help plan a future trip to Myanmar.
Don’t expect photos; there won’t be any. I have some, but they’re slides that would need scanning and editing one by one to fix the wear and tear of time—way too much work.
The Context.
Back then (reminder: 1987), I was volunteering in Paris at the counter of a travel agency on Rue des Écoles. The agency was part of a well-known organization based in Mulhouse that mostly offered scheduled flights to Asia, charter flights to the Mediterranean, and flights to Mali with their own plane. They also had a few rare "roots"-style trips to certain destinations—trips where you didn’t bring your tennis racket but were ready to soak in everything, even if it meant tough conditions.
I’d already been to Thailand, Indonesia, and the Philippines in Asia. The director knew this, so he asked me to accompany a group to Burma. At the time, tours to Burma were already being sold by competitors, but they all had to go through the state-run agency, Touristburma (buses and hotels for tourists, and they only showed you what they wanted you to see—kind of like traveling in North Korea today). The service was only payable in dollars at the official exchange rate (which was six times worse than the black market rate, mind you...), and since it went through the state agency, all the money ended up with the junta.
My job was to do everything *without* going through Touristburma, which was completely illegal there. Nothing would be booked in advance. Back then, the Burmese visa was only valid for 8 days/7 nights, and since clients were paying for the experience, the itinerary was planned ahead. I’d have to find transport and a guide on the black market as soon as I arrived.
The clients weren’t misled—they knew from the start that the trip would be off the books, that officially we’d be a small group of friends (not an agency), unlike the truth (Touristburma wasn’t mandatory for individual travelers), and that it would be challenging. They also knew their trip would cost 3-4 times less while giving them a much better experience of Burma. As for pretending to be a group of friends, there were only six of us, so it worked out.
To cover all expenses (accommodation, transport, excursions), the agency gave me a sufficient budget. They also gave me the *same* budget a second time, which was strictly for bribing officials who might cause trouble, for backshish (tips), and, if needed, to "help" me get out of prison.
Before I left, I was thoroughly briefed by another guy who’d led the previous trip (he’d dealt with all the initial challenges). He explained everything I needed to know, what to watch out for, and advised me on what to bring as "gifts" (samples of well-known perfumes, specific cigarette and whisky brands, etc.). For the perfume samples, I rallied my family, friends, and even stores. For the rest, I’d pick things up at the duty-free shops in Don Muang (Bangkok’s only airport at the time)—I had the budget for it.
I couldn’t wait to leave...
How do you feel about coming back to France?
Hi there, I’ve been traveling for 18 years now, at least 6 months a year, and as the years go by, I actually enjoy coming back to France more and more—a feeling I struggled with at first. I mean, we always think the grass is greener elsewhere.
But in the end, I find meaning in that saying about how there’s no place like home. I still love traveling just as much, but now my trips are shorter, and I enjoy spending more time in our beautiful country, even though I don’t hesitate to criticize it.
How about you? How do you handle coming back from your travels?
World gardens and parks, chatter goes here.
Good evening everyone,
This is where we chat and post non-competition photos. Happy wandering (jogging is also welcome).
See you soon.
Cat
A summer in the sun in... Iceland!!
Ah, Iceland and us—it’s quite the story, or rather, a long wait... The first time we considered going was already 7-8 years ago, after reading travel journals describing breathtaking landscapes, countless active and dormant volcanoes, glaciers, and waterfalls with extraordinary flows. In short, this island, made of fire and ice, right at Europe’s doorstep with its own unique culture, had nothing but advantages, and it was urgent to visit without delay 😇
My *Routard* guidebook is actually from 2016. So why did Iceland make us wait so long before we finally gave in to its charms? Yes, why indeed?
Simply because reading other travel journals revealed the cost of living there—and especially the harsh climate, even in the middle of July 🤪! Some journals described entire weeks of rain and foggy weather, making it tricky to explore the island. The budget wasn’t spared either, because in the most touristy areas, especially in the south and around Myvatn, accommodation prices are downright indecent—even outright robbery. 😕
Plus, in the Highlands, there’s literally no permanent lodging, and the only way to spend several nights there is to camp. And camping in winter conditions wasn’t exactly part of our plans... 😄
So, year after year, this trip kept getting postponed...
until August 2023, when prices for Southern Africa, North or South America, or even Asia were all way too high for summer 2024!
That’s when I turned my attention back to the Land of Fire and Ice and scoured all the comparison sites for the best accommodation deals across the country. Planning for 20 nights, I found 13 nights in "proper" lodging for 5 people at an average cost of under 200 €! A miracle, considering that in the southern glacier region, around Vik or Myvatn, prices range from 300 to 1000 € per night 😮 😮!
Still, that means we’ll have to camp for 7 nights, mostly in the Highlands, near Askja or Landmannalaugar. 😎
For once, I built the daily itinerary entirely around the decently priced lodgings I found 11 months in advance! The shortage of places to stay in some areas forced me to plan a few long transition days and make some tough choices. No big deal, though—there’s so much to do on this island 🙂!
Once the main itinerary was set, everyone agreed to the plan: 2/3 in proper lodging and 1/3 camping, even the most camping-averse among us! *Follow my gaze...*
By the time we bought the flight tickets, I had to tweak the itinerary a bit because one or two places were already booked! Plus, it was impossible to wait for a more refined plan to adjust reservations, since almost all bookings are non-refundable!! The harsh law of supply and demand...
For the car rental, we booked a Hyundai Tucson, approved for the Highlands, from Lava Car Rental—a company I’d read good reviews about in a Facebook group—for a cool 2500 € with full insurance. A real 4x4, like a Defender, would’ve been more than double...! Welcome to Iceland 😕...
Activities and excursions also required some tough choices. We had two must-dos: whale watching in Húsavík (60 € pp on Getyourguide) and a Glacier and Summer Treasure Glacier Walk with BlueIceland (165 € pp with discount codes on Getyourguide).
For the baths, we skipped the Blue Lagoon—too expensive—in favor of the Secret Lagoon and the Myvatn Baths, the Blue Lagoon’s equivalent but half the price.
Two baths for the price of one... and even more, since I spotted several free hot-water swimming spots.
Itinerary: Day 1: Arrival in Reykjavik - Hraunfossar Waterfall - Surtshellir Cave Day 2: Grábrók Crater - Snæfellsnes Peninsula Day 3: Stykkishólmur - Sturlungalaug Hot Springs Day 4: Northwest Coast - Akureyri - Goðafoss Day 5: Myvatn Day 6: Myvatn - Dettifoss - Selfoss - Rauðhólar Day 7: Húsavík Whale Watching - Dettifoss - Selfoss Day 8: Stuðlagil Canyon - Seyðisfjörður Day 9: Puffin colony - Störurð Hike Day 10: Hengifoss - East Fjords, Mjóifjörður Day 11: Viking Village - Jökulsárlón - Fjallsárlón Day 12: Glacier Excursion - Svartifoss Day 13: Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon - Vík Day 14: Þakgil - Lava Show Vík Day 15: Southern Waterfalls Day Day 16: Landmannalaugar - Skalli Hike Day 17: Landmannalaugar - Bláhnjúkur - Brennisteinsalda Day 18: Secret Lagoon, Kerlingarfjöll, and Gullfoss Day 19: Geysir - Reykjavik Day 20: Bruarfoss - Þingvellir - Kerid Crater - Krýsuvík Geothermal Area Day 21: Reykjanes Peninsula
Friday, July 5, 2024, is our last workday before driving up to Alsace overnight to leave the cockers at Grandpa’s for boarding. Then, at 1:30 AM, we’ll head to Frankfurt, where a direct flight to Iceland awaits.
We arrive at 4 AM. Since we leave at 7 AM, the "night" will only last the equivalent of a 30-minute nap 🤪... just enough to get us in the road-trip mood 😏!!
My *Routard* guidebook is actually from 2016. So why did Iceland make us wait so long before we finally gave in to its charms? Yes, why indeed?
Simply because reading other travel journals revealed the cost of living there—and especially the harsh climate, even in the middle of July 🤪! Some journals described entire weeks of rain and foggy weather, making it tricky to explore the island. The budget wasn’t spared either, because in the most touristy areas, especially in the south and around Myvatn, accommodation prices are downright indecent—even outright robbery. 😕
Plus, in the Highlands, there’s literally no permanent lodging, and the only way to spend several nights there is to camp. And camping in winter conditions wasn’t exactly part of our plans... 😄
So, year after year, this trip kept getting postponed...
until August 2023, when prices for Southern Africa, North or South America, or even Asia were all way too high for summer 2024!
That’s when I turned my attention back to the Land of Fire and Ice and scoured all the comparison sites for the best accommodation deals across the country. Planning for 20 nights, I found 13 nights in "proper" lodging for 5 people at an average cost of under 200 €! A miracle, considering that in the southern glacier region, around Vik or Myvatn, prices range from 300 to 1000 € per night 😮 😮!
Still, that means we’ll have to camp for 7 nights, mostly in the Highlands, near Askja or Landmannalaugar. 😎
For once, I built the daily itinerary entirely around the decently priced lodgings I found 11 months in advance! The shortage of places to stay in some areas forced me to plan a few long transition days and make some tough choices. No big deal, though—there’s so much to do on this island 🙂!
Once the main itinerary was set, everyone agreed to the plan: 2/3 in proper lodging and 1/3 camping, even the most camping-averse among us! *Follow my gaze...*
By the time we bought the flight tickets, I had to tweak the itinerary a bit because one or two places were already booked! Plus, it was impossible to wait for a more refined plan to adjust reservations, since almost all bookings are non-refundable!! The harsh law of supply and demand...
For the car rental, we booked a Hyundai Tucson, approved for the Highlands, from Lava Car Rental—a company I’d read good reviews about in a Facebook group—for a cool 2500 € with full insurance. A real 4x4, like a Defender, would’ve been more than double...! Welcome to Iceland 😕...
Activities and excursions also required some tough choices. We had two must-dos: whale watching in Húsavík (60 € pp on Getyourguide) and a Glacier and Summer Treasure Glacier Walk with BlueIceland (165 € pp with discount codes on Getyourguide).
For the baths, we skipped the Blue Lagoon—too expensive—in favor of the Secret Lagoon and the Myvatn Baths, the Blue Lagoon’s equivalent but half the price.
Two baths for the price of one... and even more, since I spotted several free hot-water swimming spots.
Itinerary: Day 1: Arrival in Reykjavik - Hraunfossar Waterfall - Surtshellir Cave Day 2: Grábrók Crater - Snæfellsnes Peninsula Day 3: Stykkishólmur - Sturlungalaug Hot Springs Day 4: Northwest Coast - Akureyri - Goðafoss Day 5: Myvatn Day 6: Myvatn - Dettifoss - Selfoss - Rauðhólar Day 7: Húsavík Whale Watching - Dettifoss - Selfoss Day 8: Stuðlagil Canyon - Seyðisfjörður Day 9: Puffin colony - Störurð Hike Day 10: Hengifoss - East Fjords, Mjóifjörður Day 11: Viking Village - Jökulsárlón - Fjallsárlón Day 12: Glacier Excursion - Svartifoss Day 13: Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon - Vík Day 14: Þakgil - Lava Show Vík Day 15: Southern Waterfalls Day Day 16: Landmannalaugar - Skalli Hike Day 17: Landmannalaugar - Bláhnjúkur - Brennisteinsalda Day 18: Secret Lagoon, Kerlingarfjöll, and Gullfoss Day 19: Geysir - Reykjavik Day 20: Bruarfoss - Þingvellir - Kerid Crater - Krýsuvík Geothermal Area Day 21: Reykjanes Peninsula
Friday, July 5, 2024, is our last workday before driving up to Alsace overnight to leave the cockers at Grandpa’s for boarding. Then, at 1:30 AM, we’ll head to Frankfurt, where a direct flight to Iceland awaits.
We arrive at 4 AM. Since we leave at 7 AM, the "night" will only last the equivalent of a 30-minute nap 🤪... just enough to get us in the road-trip mood 😏!!
Road Trip USA 2023 - Part 2
HIGHWAY 1
Highway 1 runs along the Pacific coast of California from Leggett in the north to Dana Point in the south. It's the longest state route in California, stretching 1,050 km.
It's famous for its breathtaking ocean views. That’s actually why it’s become such a popular route for road trips, with tons of attractions and points of interest all along the way.
After crossing the U.S. interior on our way out (see Road Trip USA 2023 - Part 1), we’re starting our return trip along this route from Leggett.
Videos are embedded throughout the summary. Please click on the image to start the video. To jump to a specific post, here are the appropriate links:
CALIFORNIA:
Scenic Overlooks on Route 1 Between Leggett and Fort Bragg The Pudding Creek Trestle Bridge in Fort Bragg Glass Beach - Fort Bragg Jenner Lookout Point - Highway 1 Goat Rock Beach - Sonoma Coast State Park - Jenner Point Reyes National Seashore - White House Pool Trail Point Reyes National Seashore - Limantour Beach Point Reyes National Seashore - Point Reyes Shipwreck Point Reyes National Seashore - Kehoe Beach Trail Point Reyes National Seashore - McClures Beach Trail Point Reyes National Seashore - Cypress Tree Tunnel Point Reyes National Seashore - Point Reyes Beach North Point Reyes National Seashore - Elephant Seals on Drakes Beach Point Reyes National Seashore - Point Reyes Beach South Point Reyes National Seashore – Elephant Seals Overlooks Point Reyes National Seashore - Chimney Rock Trail Point Reyes National Seashore - Point Reyes Lighthouse Trail Point Reyes National Seashore – Tule Elk Observation Point Bonita Lighthouse Trail - Sausalito Hawk Hill - Sausalito Battery Spencer Trail - Sausalito Rodeo Beach - Sausalito Point Cavallo - Golden Gate View - Sausalito Exploring Downtown Sausalito Visiting Sausalito’s Houseboats Crossing the Golden Gate Bridge - San Francisco Golden Gate Bridge Viewpoints - San Francisco Cruise to Alcatraz Island - San Francisco Visiting Alcatraz Island - San Francisco Civic Center - Downtown San Francisco Market Street & Yerba Buena Gardens - Downtown San Francisco Union Square & Financial District - Downtown San Francisco Fisherman's Wharf, Pier 39 & Embarcadero - San Francisco Sea Lion Observation - Pier 39 - San Francisco Lombard Street & Cable Car - Russian Hill - San Francisco Macondray Lane Historic District - Russian Hill - San Francisco Grace Cathedral & Huntington Park - Nob Hill - San Francisco Telegraph Hill - San Francisco Chinatown - San Francisco Alamo Square & Painted Ladies - Western Addition - San Francisco Palace of Fine Arts - Marina District - San Francisco Presidio of San Francisco California Coastal Trail - Lincoln Park - San Francisco California Palace of the Legion of Honor - Lincoln Park - San Francisco Sutro Baths - Lincoln Park - San Francisco Queen Wilhelmina Garden - Golden Gate Park - San Francisco Bison Paddock - Golden Gate Park - San Francisco Portals of the Past - Golden Gate Park - San Francisco Strawberry Hill - Golden Gate Park – San Francisco Prayerbook Cross & Robin Williams Meadow - Golden Gate Park - San Francisco Hidden Garden Steps & 16th Avenue Tiled Steps - San Francisco Grandview Park - San Francisco Hike - Twin Peaks Three Summits - San Francisco Longboarding Down Twin Peaks Blvd in San Francisco Haight-Ashbury - San Francisco Corona Heights Park - San Francisco Mission Dolores - San Francisco Mural Frescoes (Part 1) - Mission District - San Francisco Mural Frescoes (Part 2) - Mission District - San Francisco Devil's Slide Bunker - Pacifica Mavericks Beach - Half Moon Bay Martins Beach - Half Moon Bay Pigeon Point Lighthouse State Historic Park - Pescadero What to See in Santa Cruz Visiting Capitola What to See in Monterey Carmel-by-the-Sea Lovers Point Park - Pacific Grove Castle Rock, Hurricane Point & Little Sur River Viewpoints Pfeiffer Falls Trail Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park Vista Point & McWay Falls Highway 1 - Big Sur Viewpoints Salmon Creek Falls San Carpoforo Creek Trail Elephant Seal Vista Point - San Simeon San Simeon Pier Moonstone Beach Boardwalk Shipwreck - Estero Bluffs State Park Surfing Competition in Morro Bay Port San Luis Pier - San Luis Obispo Pismo Beach Monarch Butterfly Grove - Pismo State Beach Nojoqui Falls Park - Solvang Arroyo Hondo Vista Point Solvang, a Charming Danish Town in California Chumash Painted Cave - Santa Barbara Goleta San Marcos Rd & Cachuma Lake Vista Points - Santa Barbara Old Santa Barbara Mission Walking Tour of Santa Barbara’s Historic Downtown West Beach - Santa Barbara What to See in Ventura Paradise Falls - Wildwood Regional Park - Thousand Oaks Sandy Dune & El Matador State Beach - Malibu Point Dume Nature Reserve - Malibu Malibu Pier Road Trip in the Malibu Mountains Los Liones Trail - Santa Monica Santa Monica Pier Rodeo Drive - Beverly Hills Greystone Mansion - Beverly Hills Hollywood Walk of Fame - Los Angeles Griffith Observatory - Los Angeles Hollywood Forever Cemetery - Los Angeles What to See in Venice Beach Venice Beach Skatepark ShoreLine Aquatic Park - Long Beach Alamitos Beach - Long Beach Naples Island - Long Beach Crescent Bay Point Park & Helser Park Kiosk - Laguna Beach Shell Beach at Twin Points - Laguna Beach Prairie Dogs at Agra Vista Point Top Gun House & Oceanside Pier Annie's Canyon Trail - Solana Beach (Via North Rios Trailhead Loop) Old Town San Diego La Jolla Coastal Trail - San Diego Balboa Park - San Diego Pacific Beach - San Diego Mission Beach - San Diego Ocean Beach Tide Pools - San Diego Sunset Cliffs Natural Park - San Diego Tuna Harbor Park - San Diego Seaport Village & Embarcadero Marina Park - San Diego Gaslamp Quarter - Downtown San Diego Coronado Island - San Diego Dead Dolly Lane - Alpine Galleta Meadows Metal Sculptures - Borrego Springs What to See in Palm Springs Robolights - Palm Springs Andreas Canyon Trail - Indian Canyons - Palm Springs Palm Canyon Trail - Indian Canyons - Palm Springs West Fork Falls Trail - Indian Canyons - Palm Springs Tahquitz Canyon Loop Trail - Indian Canyons - Palm Springs Desert Christ Park - Yucca Valley Pioneertown Salvation Mountain - Niland Slab City - Niland
Highway 1 runs along the Pacific coast of California from Leggett in the north to Dana Point in the south. It's the longest state route in California, stretching 1,050 km.
It's famous for its breathtaking ocean views. That’s actually why it’s become such a popular route for road trips, with tons of attractions and points of interest all along the way.
After crossing the U.S. interior on our way out (see Road Trip USA 2023 - Part 1), we’re starting our return trip along this route from Leggett.
Videos are embedded throughout the summary. Please click on the image to start the video. To jump to a specific post, here are the appropriate links:
CALIFORNIA:
Scenic Overlooks on Route 1 Between Leggett and Fort Bragg The Pudding Creek Trestle Bridge in Fort Bragg Glass Beach - Fort Bragg Jenner Lookout Point - Highway 1 Goat Rock Beach - Sonoma Coast State Park - Jenner Point Reyes National Seashore - White House Pool Trail Point Reyes National Seashore - Limantour Beach Point Reyes National Seashore - Point Reyes Shipwreck Point Reyes National Seashore - Kehoe Beach Trail Point Reyes National Seashore - McClures Beach Trail Point Reyes National Seashore - Cypress Tree Tunnel Point Reyes National Seashore - Point Reyes Beach North Point Reyes National Seashore - Elephant Seals on Drakes Beach Point Reyes National Seashore - Point Reyes Beach South Point Reyes National Seashore – Elephant Seals Overlooks Point Reyes National Seashore - Chimney Rock Trail Point Reyes National Seashore - Point Reyes Lighthouse Trail Point Reyes National Seashore – Tule Elk Observation Point Bonita Lighthouse Trail - Sausalito Hawk Hill - Sausalito Battery Spencer Trail - Sausalito Rodeo Beach - Sausalito Point Cavallo - Golden Gate View - Sausalito Exploring Downtown Sausalito Visiting Sausalito’s Houseboats Crossing the Golden Gate Bridge - San Francisco Golden Gate Bridge Viewpoints - San Francisco Cruise to Alcatraz Island - San Francisco Visiting Alcatraz Island - San Francisco Civic Center - Downtown San Francisco Market Street & Yerba Buena Gardens - Downtown San Francisco Union Square & Financial District - Downtown San Francisco Fisherman's Wharf, Pier 39 & Embarcadero - San Francisco Sea Lion Observation - Pier 39 - San Francisco Lombard Street & Cable Car - Russian Hill - San Francisco Macondray Lane Historic District - Russian Hill - San Francisco Grace Cathedral & Huntington Park - Nob Hill - San Francisco Telegraph Hill - San Francisco Chinatown - San Francisco Alamo Square & Painted Ladies - Western Addition - San Francisco Palace of Fine Arts - Marina District - San Francisco Presidio of San Francisco California Coastal Trail - Lincoln Park - San Francisco California Palace of the Legion of Honor - Lincoln Park - San Francisco Sutro Baths - Lincoln Park - San Francisco Queen Wilhelmina Garden - Golden Gate Park - San Francisco Bison Paddock - Golden Gate Park - San Francisco Portals of the Past - Golden Gate Park - San Francisco Strawberry Hill - Golden Gate Park – San Francisco Prayerbook Cross & Robin Williams Meadow - Golden Gate Park - San Francisco Hidden Garden Steps & 16th Avenue Tiled Steps - San Francisco Grandview Park - San Francisco Hike - Twin Peaks Three Summits - San Francisco Longboarding Down Twin Peaks Blvd in San Francisco Haight-Ashbury - San Francisco Corona Heights Park - San Francisco Mission Dolores - San Francisco Mural Frescoes (Part 1) - Mission District - San Francisco Mural Frescoes (Part 2) - Mission District - San Francisco Devil's Slide Bunker - Pacifica Mavericks Beach - Half Moon Bay Martins Beach - Half Moon Bay Pigeon Point Lighthouse State Historic Park - Pescadero What to See in Santa Cruz Visiting Capitola What to See in Monterey Carmel-by-the-Sea Lovers Point Park - Pacific Grove Castle Rock, Hurricane Point & Little Sur River Viewpoints Pfeiffer Falls Trail Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park Vista Point & McWay Falls Highway 1 - Big Sur Viewpoints Salmon Creek Falls San Carpoforo Creek Trail Elephant Seal Vista Point - San Simeon San Simeon Pier Moonstone Beach Boardwalk Shipwreck - Estero Bluffs State Park Surfing Competition in Morro Bay Port San Luis Pier - San Luis Obispo Pismo Beach Monarch Butterfly Grove - Pismo State Beach Nojoqui Falls Park - Solvang Arroyo Hondo Vista Point Solvang, a Charming Danish Town in California Chumash Painted Cave - Santa Barbara Goleta San Marcos Rd & Cachuma Lake Vista Points - Santa Barbara Old Santa Barbara Mission Walking Tour of Santa Barbara’s Historic Downtown West Beach - Santa Barbara What to See in Ventura Paradise Falls - Wildwood Regional Park - Thousand Oaks Sandy Dune & El Matador State Beach - Malibu Point Dume Nature Reserve - Malibu Malibu Pier Road Trip in the Malibu Mountains Los Liones Trail - Santa Monica Santa Monica Pier Rodeo Drive - Beverly Hills Greystone Mansion - Beverly Hills Hollywood Walk of Fame - Los Angeles Griffith Observatory - Los Angeles Hollywood Forever Cemetery - Los Angeles What to See in Venice Beach Venice Beach Skatepark ShoreLine Aquatic Park - Long Beach Alamitos Beach - Long Beach Naples Island - Long Beach Crescent Bay Point Park & Helser Park Kiosk - Laguna Beach Shell Beach at Twin Points - Laguna Beach Prairie Dogs at Agra Vista Point Top Gun House & Oceanside Pier Annie's Canyon Trail - Solana Beach (Via North Rios Trailhead Loop) Old Town San Diego La Jolla Coastal Trail - San Diego Balboa Park - San Diego Pacific Beach - San Diego Mission Beach - San Diego Ocean Beach Tide Pools - San Diego Sunset Cliffs Natural Park - San Diego Tuna Harbor Park - San Diego Seaport Village & Embarcadero Marina Park - San Diego Gaslamp Quarter - Downtown San Diego Coronado Island - San Diego Dead Dolly Lane - Alpine Galleta Meadows Metal Sculptures - Borrego Springs What to See in Palm Springs Robolights - Palm Springs Andreas Canyon Trail - Indian Canyons - Palm Springs Palm Canyon Trail - Indian Canyons - Palm Springs West Fork Falls Trail - Indian Canyons - Palm Springs Tahquitz Canyon Loop Trail - Indian Canyons - Palm Springs Desert Christ Park - Yucca Valley Pioneertown Salvation Mountain - Niland Slab City - Niland
My Cuba trip experience
Hi everyone.
Here’s my personal account (just my own opinion, of course):
My trip lasted 2 months (January to March 2025). Backpacking, solo, and on a very tight budget (15 € per day on average). I traveled from Havana to: Viñales, Santa Marta/Varadero, Cienfuegos, Trinidad, Sancti Spíritus, Camagüey, Bayamo, Santiago de Cuba, Guantánamo, Baracoa, Moa, Holguín, Santa Clara, Cienfuegos, and back to Havana.
In Cuba, if you stay in *casas particulares*, you’ll have plenty of options. They’re everywhere. When I did door-to-door, I negotiated prices based on my small budget. Not always accepted, but I still managed to find families willing to host me. The island has fewer and fewer tourists each year, so many now prefer to rent a room at a low price rather than leave it empty. Inflation is insane, and Cubans struggle to get by day to day.
Door-to-door works really well (look for the blue logo of a roof on the house, which means it’s licensed to rent to foreigners)—you’ll see them everywhere. If it makes you feel more secure, you can also book through Airb’n’b, but you won’t be able to negotiate there. Important: make sure to get a VPN subscription on your phone, otherwise you won’t be able to book anything (since Airbnb is a U.S. site).
Now, for the West:
- Viñales: very pretty but *super* touristy! So, food prices are a bit high… but it’s the cheapest place to stay I found in the whole country (3 €-4 per night!!!), because there’s so much competition with *casas* (you’ll find them on every street!).
- Cienfuegos: a human-scale city, I really liked it because it’s so peaceful. Waterfront, pretty square, good prices, wide and well-lit streets—very pleasant…
- Trinidad: very expensive and very touristy. Pretty (cobblestone streets, historic center, natural surroundings), but packed with people…
- Havana: easy to find cheap accommodation if you look in Chinatown. However, you shouldn’t mind the noise and street prostitution (getting approached every 10 meters)… Central Havana is the only well-maintained and upscale part of the city (so very expensive, for tourists with money). Outside of that, everything is run-down, in ruins, or very poor (and cheap as a result).
- Varadero: no interest at all. Very expensive, superficial, and ultra-touristy. Absolutely nothing Cuban about the place. If you still want to go, stay 3 km before in Santa Marta—it’s cheaper, and you can easily walk there.
- Santa Clara: a very pretty small city with its central square. Hard to find a good place to eat with electricity—if you can afford it, go to *El Sol* restaurant, no hesitation! Great welcome and a charming spot to enjoy a meal. For accommodation, I recommend a wonderful person, Juan Carlos. *Casa San Lorenzo* on Calle Martí! Always attentive, a great spirit, and good advice…
For the Center:
- Sancti Spíritus: nothing special… just a stopover city.
- Camagüey: a nice city with welcoming people (like everywhere else), but nothing particularly noteworthy.
For the Southeast:
- Bayamo: very small, nothing special.
- Santiago de Cuba: I loved it! It felt like San Francisco with its hilly layout! Lots of street life, musicians, affordable *casas*, easy to make friendly connections, quiet spots by the water, and lively areas downtown (despite the downside of being approached every 2 minutes). And always, a warm welcome from locals (shoutout to the adorable Erika, Souleydis, and her partner—I’m giving a shoutout to *Casa San Pedro* on Calle Princesa!).
- Guantánamo: no interest. Hard to find accommodation or even food. Nothing special and not very pretty either…
- Baracoa: very pretty, though! Kept in its own juice, very typical, authentic, a peaceful waterfront, and stunning natural surroundings… Easy to find cheap accommodation.
- Moa: the only small town where I stayed 3 days and couldn’t find bottled water… Not much interest, except to rest before hitting the road again.
- Holguín: one of the cities I loved! I stayed over 10 days. Human-scale, lots of places to stay and sleep. No one bothers you in the street (except money changers). It’s a great place to live, and the people are very friendly.
Overall positives: no need to worry—Cuba is ultra-safe, no aggression, no risks. Cubans are very welcoming, smiling, and always ready to help. Public transport everywhere—buses, trucks, *collectivos*, *taxi wha-wha*… The ice cream is to die for (just watch out for power outages and freezers). Great breakfasts in *casas*—hearty and delicious… Movie theaters are practically free (in Cuban pesos), so cheap it’d be a shame to skip them (they’re often empty, by the way). Chess clubs in every city, open to everyone and free (they’re really good!). The general vibe is warm and joyful despite the hardships…
Overall negatives: lots of scams, theft, and prostitution. Except in Havana, the rest of the island has no electricity for most of the day. Hard to find good cheap food (without going to big restaurants or hotels). Often mediocre: pasta or pizza usually have no taste. Paranoia among many people who fear crime, even though the country is very safe… Inflation is so bad that many Cubans struggle to eat or get healthcare (medicine is rare and expensive).
That’s a lot to say, but that’s the gist of it… 😊
Here’s my personal account (just my own opinion, of course):
My trip lasted 2 months (January to March 2025). Backpacking, solo, and on a very tight budget (15 € per day on average). I traveled from Havana to: Viñales, Santa Marta/Varadero, Cienfuegos, Trinidad, Sancti Spíritus, Camagüey, Bayamo, Santiago de Cuba, Guantánamo, Baracoa, Moa, Holguín, Santa Clara, Cienfuegos, and back to Havana.
In Cuba, if you stay in *casas particulares*, you’ll have plenty of options. They’re everywhere. When I did door-to-door, I negotiated prices based on my small budget. Not always accepted, but I still managed to find families willing to host me. The island has fewer and fewer tourists each year, so many now prefer to rent a room at a low price rather than leave it empty. Inflation is insane, and Cubans struggle to get by day to day.
Door-to-door works really well (look for the blue logo of a roof on the house, which means it’s licensed to rent to foreigners)—you’ll see them everywhere. If it makes you feel more secure, you can also book through Airb’n’b, but you won’t be able to negotiate there. Important: make sure to get a VPN subscription on your phone, otherwise you won’t be able to book anything (since Airbnb is a U.S. site).
Now, for the West:
- Viñales: very pretty but *super* touristy! So, food prices are a bit high… but it’s the cheapest place to stay I found in the whole country (3 €-4 per night!!!), because there’s so much competition with *casas* (you’ll find them on every street!).
- Cienfuegos: a human-scale city, I really liked it because it’s so peaceful. Waterfront, pretty square, good prices, wide and well-lit streets—very pleasant…
- Trinidad: very expensive and very touristy. Pretty (cobblestone streets, historic center, natural surroundings), but packed with people…
- Havana: easy to find cheap accommodation if you look in Chinatown. However, you shouldn’t mind the noise and street prostitution (getting approached every 10 meters)… Central Havana is the only well-maintained and upscale part of the city (so very expensive, for tourists with money). Outside of that, everything is run-down, in ruins, or very poor (and cheap as a result).
- Varadero: no interest at all. Very expensive, superficial, and ultra-touristy. Absolutely nothing Cuban about the place. If you still want to go, stay 3 km before in Santa Marta—it’s cheaper, and you can easily walk there.
- Santa Clara: a very pretty small city with its central square. Hard to find a good place to eat with electricity—if you can afford it, go to *El Sol* restaurant, no hesitation! Great welcome and a charming spot to enjoy a meal. For accommodation, I recommend a wonderful person, Juan Carlos. *Casa San Lorenzo* on Calle Martí! Always attentive, a great spirit, and good advice…
For the Center:
- Sancti Spíritus: nothing special… just a stopover city.
- Camagüey: a nice city with welcoming people (like everywhere else), but nothing particularly noteworthy.
For the Southeast:
- Bayamo: very small, nothing special.
- Santiago de Cuba: I loved it! It felt like San Francisco with its hilly layout! Lots of street life, musicians, affordable *casas*, easy to make friendly connections, quiet spots by the water, and lively areas downtown (despite the downside of being approached every 2 minutes). And always, a warm welcome from locals (shoutout to the adorable Erika, Souleydis, and her partner—I’m giving a shoutout to *Casa San Pedro* on Calle Princesa!).
- Guantánamo: no interest. Hard to find accommodation or even food. Nothing special and not very pretty either…
- Baracoa: very pretty, though! Kept in its own juice, very typical, authentic, a peaceful waterfront, and stunning natural surroundings… Easy to find cheap accommodation.
- Moa: the only small town where I stayed 3 days and couldn’t find bottled water… Not much interest, except to rest before hitting the road again.
- Holguín: one of the cities I loved! I stayed over 10 days. Human-scale, lots of places to stay and sleep. No one bothers you in the street (except money changers). It’s a great place to live, and the people are very friendly.
Overall positives: no need to worry—Cuba is ultra-safe, no aggression, no risks. Cubans are very welcoming, smiling, and always ready to help. Public transport everywhere—buses, trucks, *collectivos*, *taxi wha-wha*… The ice cream is to die for (just watch out for power outages and freezers). Great breakfasts in *casas*—hearty and delicious… Movie theaters are practically free (in Cuban pesos), so cheap it’d be a shame to skip them (they’re often empty, by the way). Chess clubs in every city, open to everyone and free (they’re really good!). The general vibe is warm and joyful despite the hardships…
Overall negatives: lots of scams, theft, and prostitution. Except in Havana, the rest of the island has no electricity for most of the day. Hard to find good cheap food (without going to big restaurants or hotels). Often mediocre: pasta or pizza usually have no taste. Paranoia among many people who fear crime, even though the country is very safe… Inflation is so bad that many Cubans struggle to eat or get healthcare (medicine is rare and expensive).
That’s a lot to say, but that’s the gist of it… 😊
Backpacking itinerary in Tunisia
Hi there,
I'm urgently planning a trip to Tunisia in November, backpacker-style (no agency, no guide or taxi, public transport, youth hostels or small hotels, local restaurants). I'm not interested in the beach, and I like to take my time at archaeological sites and museums (twice as long as the average visitor). I'm aiming for about two weeks, give or take.
First, I'm trying to roughly outline a route/schedule so I can book my flight as soon as possible (no desert in the south this time—I went there years ago and want to stay independent). I’ve sketched out the following itinerary, knowing that apparently, there are quite a few towns without budget-friendly hotels (even on Airbnb), which means I’ll be staying longer where they’re available. Three questions: 1. Does this seem reasonable overall (time spent in each city)? 2. Should I add other cities, maybe in the northwest? 3. For hotels, in November, is it better to scout options on booking sites first, then book on the spot for cheaper rates (no site commission + possible negotiation)? Also, are hotels not listed online and found randomly on-site much cheaper?
ROUGH ITINERARY (order to be confirmed)
TUNIS 5 days (cheap accommodations: 13 or 19 €) 2 days: Medina, souks, Bardo Museum, Royal Mausoleum of Tourbet El Bey, Zitouna Mosque (exterior) 1 day: Sidi Bou Said 1 day: Carthage 1 day: A-R Dougga (bus to Tebersouk 2h + taxi) – pack a picnic + option: hike to Zaghouan (750m+, 10km round trip) – worth it? Doable alone?
KAIROUAN 2 days (very expensive room: 40-50 €!) Great Mosque, Medina, Three Doors Mosque, medieval cemetery, Sidi Sahbi Mosque...
SOUSSE 3 days (room 15 €) 2 days: Medina, archaeological museum, Port El Kantaoui, the Ribat (fortress), Contemporary Art Museum Dar Am Taïeb, Dar Essid (17th-century traditional house) 1 day: A-R El Jem (60km away) + option: 1 day A-R Monastir? Worth it? + option: 1 day A-R Mahdia (or 2 days sleeping there)?
OPTIONS -> Gabes to mix things up? But is it easy to find cheap lodging and get around/visit alone? -> Other sights or stops to sleep: Sfax, El Kef, others? -> Kerkenna Islands (easy accommodation?)
Thanks for your thoughts and opinions on these options. Once I’ve adjusted the duration, I’ll book my tickets for early November! (By the way, do you think I should arrive and depart from two different airports?)
I'm urgently planning a trip to Tunisia in November, backpacker-style (no agency, no guide or taxi, public transport, youth hostels or small hotels, local restaurants). I'm not interested in the beach, and I like to take my time at archaeological sites and museums (twice as long as the average visitor). I'm aiming for about two weeks, give or take.
First, I'm trying to roughly outline a route/schedule so I can book my flight as soon as possible (no desert in the south this time—I went there years ago and want to stay independent). I’ve sketched out the following itinerary, knowing that apparently, there are quite a few towns without budget-friendly hotels (even on Airbnb), which means I’ll be staying longer where they’re available. Three questions: 1. Does this seem reasonable overall (time spent in each city)? 2. Should I add other cities, maybe in the northwest? 3. For hotels, in November, is it better to scout options on booking sites first, then book on the spot for cheaper rates (no site commission + possible negotiation)? Also, are hotels not listed online and found randomly on-site much cheaper?
ROUGH ITINERARY (order to be confirmed)
TUNIS 5 days (cheap accommodations: 13 or 19 €) 2 days: Medina, souks, Bardo Museum, Royal Mausoleum of Tourbet El Bey, Zitouna Mosque (exterior) 1 day: Sidi Bou Said 1 day: Carthage 1 day: A-R Dougga (bus to Tebersouk 2h + taxi) – pack a picnic + option: hike to Zaghouan (750m+, 10km round trip) – worth it? Doable alone?
KAIROUAN 2 days (very expensive room: 40-50 €!) Great Mosque, Medina, Three Doors Mosque, medieval cemetery, Sidi Sahbi Mosque...
SOUSSE 3 days (room 15 €) 2 days: Medina, archaeological museum, Port El Kantaoui, the Ribat (fortress), Contemporary Art Museum Dar Am Taïeb, Dar Essid (17th-century traditional house) 1 day: A-R El Jem (60km away) + option: 1 day A-R Monastir? Worth it? + option: 1 day A-R Mahdia (or 2 days sleeping there)?
OPTIONS -> Gabes to mix things up? But is it easy to find cheap lodging and get around/visit alone? -> Other sights or stops to sleep: Sfax, El Kef, others? -> Kerkenna Islands (easy accommodation?)
Thanks for your thoughts and opinions on these options. Once I’ve adjusted the duration, I’ll book my tickets for early November! (By the way, do you think I should arrive and depart from two different airports?)
Flight canceled due to strike with Ryanair: wait or rebook?
Hi everyone,
I have a Ryanair flight scheduled for 10/14 (outbound, returning on the 16th) from Charleroi in Belgium. A strike is confirmed, and the airport will be closed on the 14th. But Ryanair is still saying the flight is confirmed. I get that they’re trying to make us change and pay extra fees rather than wait for the free compensation.
If I make a new booking, can I still claim a refund for the first one?
Thanks in advance for your help—this is the first time I’ve faced this situation.
I have a Ryanair flight scheduled for 10/14 (outbound, returning on the 16th) from Charleroi in Belgium. A strike is confirmed, and the airport will be closed on the 14th. But Ryanair is still saying the flight is confirmed. I get that they’re trying to make us change and pay extra fees rather than wait for the free compensation.
If I make a new booking, can I still claim a refund for the first one?
Thanks in advance for your help—this is the first time I’ve faced this situation.