Results for "Baugé+|+127+>+351"

Bonjour, Je compte partir à ténérife du 5 au 10 mars et voulais savoir si quelqu'un était déjà parti à cette période et si le climat était pas froid. Par ailleurs il paait que le sud de l'ile est plus chaud, est-ce vrai? Enfin à cette période est-ce que quelqu'un sait laquelle île des canaries est la plus chaude au niveau du climat. Merci beaucoup à tous pour votre réponse et votre aide.

Je suis déjà allez en Tunisie et j'aimerais y aller de nouveau et m'installer à Sousse pour 1 mois, le climat politique est-il bon et sécuritaire et la température en février/mars quelle est-elle?

Merci

Bonjour, On part fin mai pour l'australie. On a comme objectif de louer un van et de parcourir l'australie pendant un an. Etant donné qu'on arrive en hivers on se pose la question de la ville d'arrivée. A votre avis quelle ville Darwin (pour le soleil et les loyers pas cher ) ou sydney / melbourne (pour la facilité de trouver un bon van et du travail). On est 4 et on hesite pas mal. Des conseils ? Des avis ?

Bonjour j'ai réservé un billet prime aller en affaire retour le 20 avril en alizé pour punta cana (pas de disponibilité en affaire pendant 15 jours... en regardant mon billet je viens de m'apercevoir que l'alizé vient de se tranformer en premium éco (voyageur premium)... l'avion est un 777-300er... pourtant la cabine correspond bien a un 777-300 ER CEO... Je me demande en quoi consiste ce changement... changement de siège avec les nouveau siège premium? peu probable... le nombre de siège n'a pas bougé... quelqu'un a t'il une info sur si le catering est modifié ou reste alizé? est ce que c'est une une astuce pour mettre le catering (plateau repas) de l'éco sur l'alizé? à voir... quelqu'un chez af ou un membre de VF serai t'il m'expliquer? ou tout simplement le produit alizé va être renommé premium voyageur lui aussi.

merci pour votre attention

bonjour à tous j'aimerais avoir des informations sur cette hôtel je lis plusieurs commentaires contradictoires sur la plage(surtout les sections de plage) est-ce vrai que l'on ne peut bouger les chaises de plage???? est-ce que les chaises sont tous collées les unes contre les autres ou si c'est un peu distensé? ce qui concerne les roches dans la mer:doit-on absolument mettre des souliers ou si il y a des roches de temps en temps? j'ai également lue que l'on doit $ pour avoir une chaise à raison de 10 $ par jour? savez vous si la suite swim-out est calme et paisible? merci de me donner les plus d'infos possible car les commentaires différents me mélangent énormement chris

Salut la gang 2 amis et moi prevoyons d'aller à Cuba...On cherche un 4 étoiles et un endroit où il y'a des CLUBS et des FILLES! Où aller, Cayo coco ou Holguin?

Bonjour avec mon meilleur ami (tous les deux 20 ans ) nous voulons partir cette été dans un pays étranger nous ne sommes pas limité pas la distance donc proposé moi tous ce qui vous viens en tete . Nous cherchons un endroit ou on peut faire la fete le soir comme nulle par ailleurs (ou presque) et ou les jeunes viennent des 4 coins du monde mais aussi ou de nombreuses activités sympa sont aux rdv la journée car nous partons un peu plus de 2 semaines et donc ils seraient préférable de ne pas s'ennuyer la journée . En éspérant que vous pourrez m'aider ... merci

Bonjour à tous,

J'avais trouvé ce texte qui m'avait bien fait sourire il y a quelque temps et j'a pris la peine de le traduire. A prendre au deuxième degré même s'il reflète bien "l'art de rouler à la thaïe".

La plénitude (Zen) et l'art de la folie routière.

Il y a deux choses en Thaïlande qui sont totalement incompréhensibles pour les Occidentaux: les règles du bouddhisme et de la circulation routière.

Les deux sont inextricablement liés, et par la compréhension de l'un, vous pouvez vous comprendre l'autre. Les religions occidentales s'embarrassent avec le concept des contraires tels que le bien et le mal, le ciel et l'enfer, la lumière et l'obscurité. Le bouddhisme reconnaît l'unicité inhérente de toutes les choses et voit ces opposés supposés comme les facettes de l'unité et la totalité de l'existence. Pour comprendre le conducteur thaïlandais, vous aussi, vous devez oublier ces illusions de la dualité, comme la dualité des deux voies de circulation dans des directions opposées. Le conducteur thaïlandais voit les deux voies comme une partie de la même route, et les deux directions comme une expression de la circulation éternelle de toutes choses. Lorsque vous avez saisi ce concept, vous comprendrez alors pourquoi les Thaïlandais zigzaguent si naturellement dans la circulation pour dépasser, et pourquoi ils sont complètement sereins quand ils circulent le long d'une route très fréquentée dans le mauvais sens. C'est parce qu'il n'y a pas de voie gauche ou droite, seulement "une voie".

C'est la même chose avec les feux de signalisation. Pour le conducteur illuminé bouddhiste, rouge et vert ne sont pas des couleurs différentes, mais tout simplement des façons différentes d'appréhender les feux de signalisation. Oubliez ces notions occidentales trompeuses comme le "droit de passage" et votre œil intérieur s'ouvre, c'est la seule façon de s'engager dans une intersection en Thaïlande. En Thaïlande, l'existence n'est pas considérée comme une progression linéaire de la naissance à la mort, mais plutôt comme un cycle sans fin de la vie, mort et renaissance. Comme une âme gagne son expérience et l'illumination de chaque vie, que l'âme se réincarne en une autre vie jusqu'à ce que le Nirvana soit atteint et qu'il, ou elle, s'échappe finalement de ce cycle éternel vers un état de béatitude éternelle. Vous ne mourez jamais, parce que la vie ne vaut guère plus qu'une Honda Dream. Au lieu de cela, il vous suffit de passer dans une autre vie pour une autre chance d'atteindre la sagesse nécessaire pour l'illumination.

Vous devriez aussi ne jamais craindre la mort, même quand vous dévalez une route sinueuse de Phuket à 200 km/h en longeant un précipice sans fond. Cette vie se termine quand il est temps, et peu importe combien de fois vous vérifiez vos rétroviseurs, un camion pick-up peut bien arriver de derrière en hurlant et faire que ce soit maintenant. Acceptez cela comme inévitable, et vous serez libre de suivre la "voie" du conducteur thaïlandais, les dépassements dans les virages à l'aveugle et la conduite sous la pluie à des vitesses folles sans casque.

Ceux qui souhaitent passer un peu plus longtemps dans cette vie doivent être particulièrement prudent lorsque ils passent devant les temples bouddhistes, parce que les conducteurs qui en sortent ont probablement juste payé leur mérite et sont peut être à la recherche de la réincarnation alors que les conditions sont réunies. Soyez comme l'eau, qui est l'essence de toute vie et, comme tel, a beaucoup de leçons à nous enseigner. L'eau peut s'adapter à n'importe quel conteneur et s'infiltrer à travers même la plus petite fissure, comme le conducteur thaïlandais. Il peut s'infiltrer dans n'importe quel espace entre deux véhicules lancés à vive allure, peu importe l'espace ou la difficulté, ou à quelle vitesse il roule. Quand l'eau rencontre un obstacle elle ne s'arrête pas, mais elle le contourne, sans jamais perdre son élan. Donc, vous aussi. Quand quelqu'un sur le long chemin de la vie s'est arrêté au milieu de la route pour sentir les roses, ou acheter un peu de poulet frit, vous devez le contourner, sans jamais interrompre votre déplacement harmonieux. La patience est également nécessaire lorsque vous quittez le parking ou en tournant dans une rue en sens inverse des véhicules. Vous devez vous engager lentement sur la route, en gardant un œil sur le moindre espace dans le trafic dense. Quel est le son d'un klaxon? Lorsque vous vous voyagerez sur le chemin de la plénitude, vous méditerez cela à plusieurs reprises, parce que c'est un son que vous entendrez assez souvent. La réponse est d'une simplicité enfantine. Cela dépend de combien de fois il klaxonne.

Un coup de klaxon indique que quelqu'un est en train de dépasser ou qu'il arrive en face, tandis qu'une série de coups de klaxon signifie un avertissement à quiconque est assez stupide pour s'engager sur la route à ce moment.

Il y a aussi l'énigme des clignotants. Un indicateur clignotant à gauche peut signifier le conducteur s'apprête à faire un virage à gauche, il peut aussi dire qu'il est sur le point de faire un virage à droite ou même de ne pas tourner. Comprendre des questions insolubles de ce genre est le secret de la maîtrise de l'usage des routes thaïlandaises.

Voilà, roulez prudemment en Thaïlande, plus de 13.000 victimes de la route chaque année c'est trop. N'alimentez pas les statistiques. :)

Salut à tous,

L'an dernier je suis allé à Cuba à la fin février début mars et j'ai séjourné à l'Hotel Blau Colonial et j'ai adoré! Ce fut reposant et pas stressant.

J'aimerais retourner probablement à Cuba cet hiver à la mi-février et j'hésite entre retourner à la même place que j'ai aimé ou risquer d'essayer un autre Resort qui pourrait apporter une autre belle expérience.

Je cherche tranquilité et repos. Et je ne souhaite pas un resort où il faut penser réserver sa place sur la plage à l'avance et autres contraintes. Vous voyez le genre?

Je sais que Varadero est reconnue pour une destination pour fêtard et qui bouge quand même beaucoup. Alors j'ai écarté un peu cette destination.

J'ai lu du bien sur Cayo Guillermo, Melia Las Dunas entre autres...

Qu'en pensez-vous? Avez vous des suggestions?

Merci beaucoup :)

bonjour nous avons reservé la croisiére sur le msc melody départ le 21/08/2012 escales : italie egypte israel chypre et gréce ns partons avec deux enfants de 2 et 5 ans pourriez vous me donner des infos sur le bateau et l'itinéraire et des conseils pour les excursions de plus pourriez vous m'aiguiller concernant mes forfaits boissons ce sera notre 2éme croisiére, la 1ére étant celle sur le bleu de france il y a 3 ans

merci d'avance pour vos réponses

Bonsoir,

Nous désirons partir pour Puerto Plata 2 semaines aux environs du 10 ou 11 avril. Nous hésitons entre le VH Ventana ou le Riu Merengue, tous deux sensiblement au même prix. Est-ce que pour cette période un prix de $ 1435 pour 2 semaines est bon. Nous ne sommes pas habitues de voyager en avril.

Merci de m'éclairer.

Nous partons fin février avec cette compagnie pour aller de Bali à Lombok, cete compagnie est sur liste noire....😕 Est ce qu'il y a des témoignages de quelques uns d'entre-vous qui la connaissent.?? On a un peu la trouille au ventre et ne savons plus quoi faire. merci

Bonjour Je vais faire un arret d'une journee a Casablanca et j'aimerais savoirs se qu'il y a d'interessant a voir dans cette ville.😉 Je suis particulierement interrese par les different souk .😛 En effet lors de cette journee je serait accompagne de mon mari et de mes deux enfant 17et 19 ans.😎 Et je jai lue sur certaine discussion qu'un souk etait tres interresant pourtous se qui est electronique et un autre pour les habit mais je ne sait pas sitout ses souk se trouve 🤪a Casablanca et si oui sont t'il tous les jours "ouvert".🙂 Cordialement carmen

Bonjour à tous,

J'arrive le samedi 31 en république dominicaine. Je séjournerai avec mon meilleur ami à l'hôtel Barcelo Dominican Beach situé à 20 km au nord de l'aéroport de Punta Cana, sur l'île de Bavaro. On arrive à 17h heure locale, donc le temps d'arriver et de s'installer à l'hôtel, il nous resterait 4h maximum pour trouver un endroit qui "bouge bien" pour passer le nouvel an.

Est-ce que la discothèque de l'hôtel est "suffisante" ou bien il y a mieux sur la plage, ou un hôtel proche ? Quels sont les endroits bien "tendances" pour les jeunes touristes ? (25 ans).

Merci d'avance pour les réponses ;)

Bonjour Je pars à Krabi le 2 janvier. J'ai réservé un hotel 3 jours. Je veux aller sur kho phi phi pour y passer 2 ou 3 nuits. Avez vous une bonne adresse d'hotel ou bungalow proche mer, au calme? Hotel confortable et bon standing. Quel prix faut il compter? Merci d'avance pour vos réponses. J'attends vos conseils avisés

bonjour, je suis actuellement a Canoa et je viens de passer trois jours dans la ferme ecologique Rio muchacho avec plusieurs autres voyageurs.Cette ferme soi disant ecologique beneficie d'une publicite bien maitrisee et largement diffusee qui la place en tant qu'exemple de l'agro-ecologie et de l'ecotourisme. Apres ce sejour, je pense pouvoir dire que cette reputation est largement usurpee. Je pense qu'ils confondent economie et ecologie.La permaculture est mise en avant sauf qu'il n'y a meme pas une parcelle de demo et pour ce qui est de l'agri bio une personne peu initiee peut se rendre rapidement compte qu'il n'y a pas grand chose de maitrise dans ce jardin.La partie animale fait peine a voir (trop de betail pour peu de nourriture). D'un point de vue touristique, la ferme impose enormement de regles mais en oublie la generosite : les repas sont bien sur vegetariens et souvent a la limite du vegetarien -du tout! Quant aux activites prevues dans ce tour, ils se sont resumes a la fabrication d'une bague et la preparation d'un chocolat!!! Le tout pour 120 dollars pour deux nuits et trois jours!! l'ecologie a vraiment bon dos!! En resume cette ferme bio reste une simple vitrine poussiereuse avec un peu de theorie et tres peu de pratique. Le national geographic , le lonely planet et autres guide de voyage devraient revisiter cette ferme avant d'en faire une si grande pub. il existe de tres bons manuels de permaculture et d'agri bio qui vous donneront une info bien plus complete et interessante

Bonjour, J'aimerais avoir des adresses pour des appartements à louer (Montmartre) pour la dernière semaine de mai et la première de juin 2012. Tout compris (2 lits, chauffage, électricité, drap et ustensiles) peut-être aussi la connection internet. Aussi est-il vrai qu'il y a beaucoup de pickpockets à Paris? Est-il dangeureux de sortir le soir? ET que nous conseillerez-vous pour 2 femmes seules?

Merci Mandzi

Je pars avec ma femme et mon petit garçon de 3 ans en corse les 10 derniers jours de mai 2012 et nous allons dormir en résidence à poto vecchio. Mais ou je ne sais pas encore, je cherche, je fouille...

Par contre indiquer moi les lieux et les choses à faire ou à voir absolument dans la corse du sud (allant de ajaccio à porto vecchio)

Je suis preneur également des bonnes adresses pour la restauration et pour acheter de la charcuterie corses mais de la véritable corse, même profonde.

Merci

Déjà venu en 2003 pour une traversée Sud - Nord,

notre groupe choisit cette fois le trajet inverse, de Calenzana à Conca...

Certains d’entre nous rentrent à peine d’un trek au Mali et au Burkina,

ils comptent sur le dépaysement... Ils seront bien déçus... Jugez plutôt...

En Afrique, quand une douche est en panne, on la laisse couler,

sur le GR20 aussi...

En Afrique, quand un WC est bouché, on le laisse déborder,

sur le GR20 aussi...

En Afrique, quand une fosse septique déborde, on la laisse s’évacuer,

sur le GR20 aussi...malgré la proximité de la source...

En Afrique, quand un bac à bouche est bouché, on lui casse un bord au marteau, sur le GR20 aussi...

Et les draps... verdâtres pour la circonstance, une couleur masquante...

La norme qui, sur le GR20 serait d’un change toutes les trois semaines... est largement dépassée, si l’on en croit plusieurs gardiens... L’un d’entre eux ne nous dit-il pas que ses draps sont les mêmes que la saison dernière avec ses 9000 passages ?

L’expérience faite de sortir un drap au jour, car il fait sombre dans le dortoir, et de l’examiner par transparence au soleil appuie ses dires...

Et personne ne râle ? Si, sur Internet où l’information circule à la rubrique « GR20 punaises »...

Et personne ne bouge ?

Les « gens du parc » sont dans les bureaux à Ajaccio et les gardiens démotivés par le changement de système de leur rémunération ne se préoccupent plus de l’hygiène, mais seulement de l’épicerie...

Pas tous il est vrai, une mention spéciale aux gardiens du refuge I MORI, qui tiennent la baraque aussi bien qu’en 2003...

Comment expliquer cette dégradation ?

Les refuges sont dimensionnés pour recevoir en général une trentaine de randonneurs, leur infrastructure est alors constituée de 1, parfois 2 WC et de 1, parfois 2 douches...

L’élargissement de cette capacité d’accueil par des tentes louées qui viennent s’ajouter à celles des randonneurs autonomes, peut porter le nombre d’usagers de ces mêmes toilettes à 80 voire une centaine...

On voit bien les problèmes sanitaires qui en découlent et dont tout le monde souffre, mais en particulier le « client » qui a acheté un trentième de service et n’en reçoit qu’un centième pour le même prix...

Nous avons posé la question à plusieurs offices de tourisme corses de savoir pourquoi les professionnels du voyage qui encouragent la promotion du GR20, et qui savent dans quel état sanitaire les voyageurs vont le vivre, ne disent rien : nous n’avons pas obtenu de réponse...

A ce jour dans son édito sur le topo guide, le président du parc devrait veiller à retirer ses références à la santé et au plaisir, le GR20 n’est pas une promenade de santé et le randonneur voit son plaisir amoindri par la hantise de la nuit à passer parmi les punaises et dans la saleté...

Certes pourtant, le GR20 reste le GR20, à savoir le plus rude des GR d’Europe, l’un des plus beaux aussi, et c’est tant mieux, mais il est en passe de devenir le plus insalubre et le plus malsain, n’ayant plus rien à envier de ce point de vue, aux sentiers africains

salut à tous, j ai lu différents post sur Ko lippe, apparemment c est peu encourageant .... beaucoup de touristes russes, hotels a prix exorbitants, plongée pas top ... et j en passe ! qu en est il vraiment ? y a t il encore des bons plans sur cette petite ile, connaissez vous des logements, guest houses, hotels, restos qui en vaillent la peine, je dois y séjourner vers le 24 decembre pour quelques jours ... vos infos me seront précieuses, merci beaucoup !

Bonjour,

Je suis depuis u moment à 'surveiller' les prix des billets d'avion Paris -> Phoénix (vers le 29 juillet 2012) et Los Angeles -> Paris (vers le 23 août 2011) et je m'aerçois que ça yoyotte énormément ... En ce moment, c'est en train de prendre quelques 5 à 10€ par jour ... Chaud les marrons ! En espérant que, comme, les forumeurs le signalent les prix devraient peut-être diminuer en janvier ???!!! J'ai peur de louper le coche ...

Qu'en pensez-vous ??? Là, je suis à 1142€ par personne ... sachant que nous sommes 4 et habitons Nantes, il nous faut encore regagner la capitale ... Le prix des billets d'avion vont plomber sensiblement notre voyage ....

Merci de vos réflexions.

Bonsoir,

Petite question toute bête : à quelle heure fait il jour et nuit en Inde du Sud au mois de Mars ?. Merci pour vos réponses.

Hola!

Nous attérissons à Cancun le 16 Janvier autour de 13h =) Je ne vous fait pas dire comment j'ai hâte d'y être. En fait, c'est le début d'un périple de 6 mois en Amérique Centrale. Nous partons donc de Mtl vers Cancun pour commencer ce magnifique voyage! 🙂

Je suis donc à la recherche d'un auberge de jeunesse pour y passer 2 nuits environs question de profiter de la mer et du soleil. Nous aimerions avoir un auberge non loin de la plage et qui est accessible à pied ou petit trajet de bus.

Voilà, n'Hésitez pas à partager vos meilleures moments/endroits avec moi! Si vous êtes à Cancun dans ces dates, laissez-moi savoir! On ira prendre la cerveza|

Merci beaucoup!🙂

Bonjour tout le monde,

Je recherche un tout-inclus du 22 au 29 décembre 2011 (Dates flexibles) Je suis un homme de 32 ans seul et j'aimerais avoir un hôtel propre, excursions possibles, rencontre de gens facile, une place où qu'il est possible de sortir et faire la fête, une belle plage et de la nourriture potable.

Avez-vous des idées?

une personne y sera en mm temps que moi?

J'attends vos conseils!!!

Merci beaucoup. 🙂

Cycling Through Provence's Big Climbs

In the autumn of 2011, Provence was hit by apocalyptic weather—torrential rain and a particularly violent east wind, reaching 130 kilometers per hour, whipping up waves as high as seven meters. It wasn’t the best time to venture outside. Yet, I told myself that after the storm, calm would return. I kept an eye on the weather forecast and noticed that starting November 10th, a favorable window should open for a little 600-kilometer cycling trip across Provence. The weather reports promised a high-pressure system that would keep the bad weather at bay over these highlands. That was all I needed to decide to set off. The planned route would take me through Provence’s biggest climbs: Mont Ventoux, Montagne de Lure, the Verdon Gorge, the Massif des Maures, and Sainte-Baume.

And so, despite my doubts, the call of adventure was stronger. The train pulled away, and once again, a journey began at Part-Dieu station. This time, I headed toward Haute-Provence for a cycling adventure. It would be my first solo bike trip. I was a little nervous—cycling with panniers makes you feel vulnerable to theft. I’d already been robbed while traveling in a group in Peru, and that experience left me deeply shaken. Alone, I hesitated. But no need to panic—I’d read accounts from long-distance cyclists who hadn’t been robbed, even if it does happen sometimes. I was particularly thinking of a young schoolteacher who had taken a sabbatical to cycle around the world. Her students had remarked, "Teacher, you’re not sporty—how will you manage to cycle around the world?" This young woman was full of resourcefulness. In South America, before flying to China, she locked her bike to a post to take care of a natural need. When she returned, the post had been torn out, and her bike—along with all her gear—was gone. It was a shock for many, but not for her. She boarded her flight to the Middle Kingdom, bought the essentials (including a new bike) once there, and continued her journey! Remembering this story, I almost felt ashamed of my cowardice. These were the thoughts running through my mind as the Rhône Valley rolled by toward Orange, the starting point of my Provençal adventure through the big climbs.

Day One: Orange to Sault via Mont Ventoux – 90 km

9:30 AM, I stepped off the train. With all my gear, I had to navigate the underground passage—no easy feat, given that my bike and luggage weighed 35 kilos. At this time of year, I expected some areas to be deserted, so I’d packed enough to bivouac comfortably. Once outside the station, the southern light flooded over me. I understood why people dream of retiring in these sun-drenched regions. As always, after disembarking from public transport, I had to get my bearings and decide which way to go. The sun, still low on the horizon, pointed east. The roar of fighter jet engines helped me locate the Air Base 115. That was all I needed to "reset the gyros."

As soon as I started pedaling, all my apprehensions vanished. The joy of discovery and physical effort took over, and euphoria washed over me. It’s amazing how emotions can shift from one moment to the next based on seemingly minor circumstances.

The weather was splendid—the forecast had predicted continuous showers, but it was completely wrong. I quickly left the city behind. Mont Ventoux loomed mysteriously, its dimensions hard to gauge. It was even more enigmatic with its summit hidden beneath swirling, mottled clouds clinging to the ridges. It reminded me of a great South American volcano. I struggled to imagine that in a few hours, I’d be up there under that blanket of mist.

The countryside was shaking off its autumnal nighttime dampness. The vineyards, interspersed with tall cypress hedges, confirmed I was in the magnificent Côtes du Rhône wine region. The distinctive Dentelles de Montmirail were very much in evidence. The air force base wasn’t far. I passed the runway’s end markers. A Mirage 2000 flew overhead in a tight turn, followed by another roaring into takeoff. It came straight at me before climbing sharply with a thunderous roar. Thirty years spent in that captivating world came rushing back. I recalled countless extraordinary human and technical experiences from my time in the service. But the purpose of this post isn’t to promote the air force—though I might post some articles one day about travels among men at war.

I continued on my way, leaving my past loves behind. As I pedaled, delightful names rolled by: Violès, Vacqueyras, Gigondas, Beaumes-de-Venise—the crème de la crème of the Côtes du Rhône Villages appellation. I let myself be enchanted by the vineyards and the little paths crisscrossing them. I started to doubt my route, though the imposing mass of Mont Ventoux in the distance acted like a giant beacon. At a crossroads, a car appeared. I approached to ask the driver for directions, but she didn’t even look at me and sped off, clearly frightened. I’d almost forgotten what a fearful world we live in, no doubt traumatized by all the horrors we see in the news and on TV.

The kilometers started adding up, but was my day’s goal too ambitious? It had been two months since I’d last ridden my bike. True, my last trip had been good training—the Route des Grandes Alpes—but that was two months ago. I can’t just take my bike out for a day trip; I need that sense of adventure to find the courage to exercise.

Two cyclists overtook me. Intrigued by my load, they struck up a conversation. They were skeptical when I told them I planned to cross Mont Ventoux that day. One of them pointed out a small chapel near the summit where I could bivouac sheltered. That motivated me even more to reach the top on this first stage. The chapel also had a mythical name for me—Sainte-Anne, the name of my parents’ villa. It was already noon, and I’d covered 50 kilometers. Malaucène appeared—the sacred village of Ventoux’s mad cyclists. Surprisingly, I didn’t see any other cyclists today. I remembered this place in June, teeming with aspirants for the king of summits. Before tackling the climb ahead, I needed to refuel. I enjoyed a pleasant gastronomic break at Max’s. At 1 PM, I started the most famous climb in cycling—21 kilometers, which would actually be 23. I knew it would be tough, especially with two handicaps: 50 kilometers already in my legs and 20 kilos of luggage. But I was counting on my tiny chainring, which let me climb trees to tackle the steep ramps.

I set off at a brisk pace along a deserted road. My speed held up for the first few kilometers. I quickly rose above the valley, the horizon widening. I was surprised to see no one on this world-renowned route among cycling enthusiasts. During the climb and descent, I’d only see five cyclists—but I’ll come back to that. I passed a sign explaining that the effort would be roughly equivalent to climbing the Col de la Bonnette. Having done the latter in September, I figured I’d be fine. I crossed paths with my first cyclist—a woman speeding downhill. After 12 kilometers, I hit slopes averaging 12%. I don’t know if the number 12 is cursed, but I got such a "bamboo" hit that I’d never experienced before. I thought I wouldn’t make it to the summit today. I stopped. My thighs burned so much I could barely walk—lactic acid overload. I looked for a relatively flat spot to pitch my tent. It was 3:30 PM, with two hours of daylight left. But I found nothing.

I got back on my bike, intending to stop as soon as I found a good bivouac spot. But nothing came up. However, my strength slowly returned, perhaps because the slope eased, though it remained around 10%. I entered the summit mists. A cyclist overtook me. I was in the zone where I had to pass the summit. Dusk caught me in the final difficulties. The atmosphere was downright austere. In the twilight, a kilometer from the summit, a cyclist was fixing his bike. I asked if he needed help. He made it clear he didn’t understand. So I asked, "Do you need some help?" His answer was clear: "No, thank you." He showed me his new inner tube. Inside, I thought, "Phew!" If I’d had to stop, sweating in the falling night with the cold intensifying, I’d have struggled to get going again. But he managed, and I continued into the twilight fog. I could barely make out the summit’s large antennas in the clouds, like immense ghosts trying to evade sight. The bike delivered sensations worthy of mountain racing. My goal was to quickly find the famous chapel in the descent to take shelter. As I glided down the southern slope, two cyclists without lights crossed my path in the night—probably heading to the station above, its lights visible in the fog.

I scanned the roadside in the dark for the chapel but saw nothing. After a kilometer or two, I lost all hope. I stopped to put on more clothes as the cold became intense. I had no idea where I could stop on these steep slopes to set up camp. Between the swirls of mist, I could intermittently see the Rhône Valley below, dotted with illuminated towns and villages. The sight was striking. What was I doing on this mountain at night? Then the miracle happened—the clouds parted, and from the ridge above me to the east, a beautiful full moon emerged, casting enough light to consider a nighttime descent to Sault, 26 kilometers away.

In this eerie atmosphere between the moon’s pale rays and patches of fog, I began my descent through a hazy, almost unreal world. The Ventoux’s characteristic white scree reflected the moonlight faintly, dimmed by the mist. In places, entire mountainsides were plunged into complete darkness, and I lost all sense of the road’s path. Then, around a tight bend caused by a land shift, the light returned. It seemed extreme compared to the darkness I’d left behind. I could once again clearly see the road’s contours, though not its potholes or gravel patches. Still, I let the slope carry me, and the speed felt significant, though the low light prevented me from reading my speedometer. In these moments, concentration was at its peak—all senses alert, reflexes ready to react to the slightest incident that could lead to a fall.

I was relieved to see Sault’s lights growing closer. In less than an hour, I reached it, considering the final little climb that required one last push. This village, bustling in summer, was deserted at this time of year—almost dead. The first hotel I came across was closed. A quick shadow passed in a small sloping street. Before it disappeared into the darkness at a house corner, I chased after it and asked about accommodation options. Very kindly, I was directed to what was probably the only hotel open in November. I quickly found it, and the reception was open. I entered wearing my black balaclava, bought in the Ayacucho region—the birthplace of Peru’s Shining Path. At this late hour, I saw questioning glances directed at me. I prefaced, "This isn’t a hold-up." Clearly, the owners had a sense of humor—they started smiling. I took off my balaclava and asked for a room. No problem, and from that moment, the pressure eased. I really didn’t feel like going back out to find a spot to pitch my tent in the biting cold.

The stage had been nearly 100 kilometers, and it was the first. It had been two months since I’d touched my bike, and I probably lacked even minimal training, even though my last bike trip had been crossing the French Alps. I really had to dig deep to overcome my weakness on Ventoux’s steep section. I don’t remember ever having to search so deeply for the energy to keep going. I knew the stage I’d set for tomorrow was significant, with the climb up Montagne de Lure’s northern slope—Ventoux’s little sister, whose ascent is reputed to be endless, over 25 kilometers. I hoped this first day wouldn’t leave me too sore to avoid suffering excessively tomorrow.

For now, relaxation—a hot shower did me a world of good, followed by a good meal. I ate a delicious andouillette from Troyes, very fine, with a particularly successful herb seasoning. I loved it, and yet I’m from Lyon and pride myself on knowing a thing or two about andouillette—not just a sausage but a whole category! A bit chauvinistic, I had to admit, though reluctantly, that I found it better than the ones I usually eat in the Lyon region!

Day Two: Sault to Forcalquier via Montagne de Lure – 116 km

This morning, the weather was magnificent—the air clear, still, very fresh, and invigorating, as only the late season can offer on these Provençal highlands. In summer, they’re known for their scorching heat and drought, but often overlooked is how harsh they can be with cold and storms. Authors like Giono or Bosco described them and their inhabitants wonderfully in books like "Les Âmes Fortes."

The miracle of the night had worked. I wasn’t sore anywhere and felt in great shape. I set off well-equipped, but the effort and sun soon made me sweat. It was time to shed some layers—hat and gloves. A gentle warmth replaced the cold, making for excellent cycling conditions. On the road to Trinit, there was no traffic—only the occasional hunters’ cars parked in the distance. These vehicles were recognizable by their large cages, used to transport hunting dogs. Sometimes, the silence was broken by a distant gunshot. The deciduous forests were losing their foliage, taking on that dull brown hue of late autumn, though here and there, a tree or shrub still resisted, displaying vivid yellow or red. The meadows, their grass already scorched by the cold, were damp from the night’s heavy humidity. The low sun highlighted thousands of spider webs that had trapped insects during the warm season.

Behind me, Mont Ventoux dominated these vast spaces. As often, its imposing, stony summit was crowned with a blanket of clouds. What an impressive mountain—it’s always so hard to gauge its dimensions. I struggled to realize that last night I’d been at the summit and descended its immense southern ridge in the dark. I hoped to return one day in favorable conditions—daylight and no clouds—to enjoy the vast panorama from this unique summit.

Leaving the very Provençal village of Trinit, I tackled my first climb of the day—the Col de l’Homme Mort. The road rose moderately for five kilometers in gentle warmth. The view over the region widened, and I felt the sheer joy of pedaling. At a good pace, I overcame this first little challenge. Once at the pass, I couldn’t resist the ritual of photographing my bike in front of the sign, giving the name and altitude—1,213 meters.

The northern slope was austere and still in shadow. The cold bit again. The road was wet and covered with leaves in places. It wasn’t impossible that some treacherous patches of black ice lurked around a bend. I descended toward the Jabron Valley with caution. Suddenly, around a bend in a forest clearing, the freshly snow-covered Alps, gleaming in the sun, leapt into view, blocking the horizon. I thought I recognized the distinctive silhouette of the Écrins’ south face above a multitude of jagged peaks.

This snow and these mountains awakened a flood of memories of great joys, but I also thought of the guide and his client who had just lost their lives on the Grandes Jorasses’ north face, at the top of a route called the Linceul. The name comes from the face’s appearance—a great ice slope bordering the Grandes Jorasses’ north wall. It was first climbed by René Desmaison in 1968. He passed away a few years ago and, in his final wishes, asked that his ashes be scattered in the Dévoluy Massif at the foot of Pic de Bure, not far from here in these immense pre-Alpine folds.

At my feet, the Jabron Valley stretched almost endlessly east toward Sisteron. In the distance, the dark mass of Montagne de Lure’s north face loomed. This mountain shares similarities with Mont Ventoux. It has the same summit scree of bright limestone, the same forests climbing up to the final rocky stretch, and that blanket of clouds adding a secretive, austere touch to the scene.

I turned left past the town of Séderon and headed toward the little Col de la Pigière, which in a few kilometers allowed me to truly plunge into the beautiful Jabron Valley. I passed through several villages with charming local names—Saint-Vincent, Noyer-sur-Jabron. The river offered lovely views of its narrow gorges with clear, cold water. Autumn seemed less advanced here than on the plateau I’d just left. Many trees still wore brilliant colors, some revealing extraordinary hues—mixes of crimson, pink, and bright red.

Arriving in Noyer-sur-Jabron, I took a tiny road on the river’s right bank, leading in a few kilometers to the foot of Montagne de Lure. In the village of Valbelle, I picnicked on leftovers I’d brought from home—an old cheese and a somewhat stale loaf of bread. It was 1:30 PM. I began the long climb of about 25 kilometers. According to a friend who’s a cycling expert in the region, this section is tough. No wonder it’s called Ventoux’s little sister—the Mont Blanc of cyclists. The elevation gain on this side is still 1,200 meters, while Ventoux via Malaucène is nearly 1,600 meters.

I hoped to reach the summit before nightfall and avoid reliving a nighttime descent. The route wound through a vast forest, following the terrain’s folds. There was activity—mushroom hunters were busy searching for the coveted chanterelle. The climb, though never very steep (only one kilometer at 9%), was interminable. Though traffic was practically nonexistent, I was overtaken by a group of Harley bikers—I counted about forty. Perched high on their machines, hands in the air on wildly shaped handlebars, some with their feet nearly in the sky due to the high footpegs, they didn’t even glance my way. What’s this idiot doing, unable to ride a motorcycle and forced to climb these mountains on a bike with big bags! I wasn’t offended—real Harley purists often see other motorcyclists as renegades, so bikes are even lower on the totem pole! But I didn’t want to start a debate about motorcycles. In my youth, when I was a wild motorcyclist (22 accidents on two wheels), clans were divided into Japanese, German, Italian, and British bike owners. The latter, on their vibrating, oil-leaking machines, considered themselves the purest. But let’s not fight—there’s a statute of limitations, and it’s been nearly forty years.

As yesterday, a few kilometers below the summit, I entered the fog, and the light dropped suddenly. What a hostile mountain in these conditions! It heightened the sense of living an incredible experience. The conditions we encounter play a major role in how the adventure imprints on our memory. I realized once again that in France, you can feel like you’re very far away. Finally, after this very long climb, the Pas de Graille sign suddenly appeared out of the grayness. Strange! Below the sign, a kilometer marker indicated this same pass was over three kilometers away. Clearly, the climb continued. In these final kilometers through the scree, I gained another 130 meters of elevation. Finally, the road’s high point was reached—1,720 meters. It was cold and damp. I quickly covered up, added my balaclava under my helmet, and put on warm gloves. As I was about to start the descent, a car stopped at the summit, and one of the passengers was surprised to find a bike there in these chilly, twilight conditions.

A 20-kilometer descent led me to the village of Saint-Étienne-les-Orgues. I hoped to find a place to stay for the night. No such luck! Everything was clearly closed—no chance of finding shelter. Tonight was getting complicated. I already had exactly 100 kilometers in my legs and didn’t feel like pedaling anymore, especially at night. But I had even less desire to sleep outside. What to do to avoid it? The town of Forcalquier was 16 kilometers away—I hoped the road would descend. I set off in that direction. The first third was along a beautiful, lightly trafficked departmental road with a slight downhill—I pedaled hard. But it got tougher. I joined a busier road, and night had fallen. A several-kilometer climb finished the journey. I knew my magnetic lights weren’t very powerful—hence the danger. They were even less so on the climb because the slower I went, the less they illuminated. Cars coming the opposite way often saw me late and blinded me with their high beams. After passing, I was plunged into total darkness for a few seconds while my pupils readjusted to the night. I imagined those coming up behind me saw me with little warning, despite my slightly fluorescent jacket. When the roadside was clear, I always positioned myself to quickly jump off the road. But unfortunately, in this long final climb, a guardrail prevented any escape to the right in case of sudden braking behind me. That was even more anxiety-inducing since I was stuck at a snail’s pace. Time seemed long. I pedaled as hard as I could, on the verge of asphyxiation, trying to escape this dangerous situation as quickly as possible. My only reference point was the vehicles in front of me, letting me know the climb wasn’t over. Then suddenly, the ordeal ended—the road’s high point was reached. The town and its lights emerged from the void, and clarity returned. Phew! I glided down toward this little town bathed in light. On November 11th, I hoped to find an open hotel since I’d clearly exceeded 100 kilometers, and the idea of having to leave town to find a bivouac spot somewhat frightened me.

I arrived in the town center. Activity was low. The first hotel was closed, but I spotted a lit sign for another establishment further on. I headed there, got off my bike, and entered. The welcome was immediately friendly—a big cat came to rub against me. For me, that was a very good sign, and the first impression was confirmed. I still had to go out to eat. I covered the minimum distance. A restaurant advertised "Mom’s Cooking." I expected Provençal specialties, but they were Moroccan. I chose a delicious tagine with lime and olives, followed by almond and honey ice cream. Exhausted after this 116-kilometer stage, I returned to my room. As often after intense efforts, it was hard to fall asleep.

Day Three: Forcalquier to Moustiers-Sainte-Marie – 58 km

On this third day, due to the progress made yesterday, the stage would be short. I’d call it a transition between two mountain ranges. Indeed, the next big climb is the Verdon Gorge. I planned to position myself at its foot this evening in preparation for a tough stage tomorrow. I made a few purchases—bread, bananas, and medicine for stomach burns (the midday sausage wasn’t always kind to me). The weather was still perfect. The route began with a long descent toward the Durance. It’s always nice to start a cycling day with a downhill—it boosts morale and allows for a gentle warm-up.

I quickly reached the town of Oraison. Just at its entrance, I crossed the Durance, which still bore traces of last week’s heavy rains along its sandbanks. Indeed, numerous stumps and trunks were scattered along its vast gravel bed, along with less ecological debris like old tires.

A little south of Oraison, I took the D907, a small road heading due east between scrubland and meadows. There it was—the Provence we imagine. This stable autumn weather, with still air, neither hot nor cold, just a fresh feeling when emerging from a shaded valley or a slight warmth under the sun, was ideal for a cyclist. After about ten kilometers at the bottom of a small valley I quickly passed through, the village of Le Brunet appeared on the right. It clung to the slopes leading to the Valensole Plateau. A few steep kilometers along a tiny winding road, and suddenly a vast panorama unfolded as the climb ended.

What a magnificent plateau! Though known for its wind, luckily today was completely calm. Far to the east, the Verdon’s great cliffs blocked the horizon. This allowed me to contemplate part of tomorrow’s stage. This place is full of mysteries—many UFO and extraterrestrial encounter stories are associated with it. Moreover, for about thirty years, France hid its ground-to-ground nuclear ballistic missiles here, grouped in the 1st GMS (Ballistic Missile Group), under the air force. Naturally, these rockets fueled fantasies, and pacifist groups settled in the region to protest this type of armament. This gives many reasons to shroud this austere, deserted land in mystery.

I took a dirt path leading to the heart of this zone and stopped at the forest’s edge for lunch. The silence was total, the view stretched very far. But nothing strange or bizarre manifested. No Martian came to share my frankly moldy cheese, very peppery sausage, or bruised banana—sniff! I resumed my route, and as often when crossing places with strong character, I tended to slow down to enjoy them longer. The immense lavender fields stretched endlessly, not very fragrant at this season. I arrived at a group of truffle oaks protected by a fence, with large red signs warning "Firearm." Clearly, the war for the black diamond was raging in this region. I remembered a novel where an old farmer made buyers believe nothing grew on his land. Every year, he secretly stole the mushrooms from the unsuspecting owners. Then one day, they discovered the truth, catching this "polite" neighbor trying to hide a basket full of beautiful, large truffles!

In these vast spaces, I felt good—a sense of plenitude. It’s strange that I only conceive of cycling through wandering. I struggle to plan a day trip. And if I do, it’s highly likely I won’t get up. I need that sense of adventure to fully appreciate my physical effort. Maybe one day I should get psychoanalyzed, but at my age, it’s probably too late! Today, I had all the time in the world—the stage was half as long as yesterday’s, with very little elevation gain. Not a sound, an impressive calm, a beautiful landscape—I pedaled in a wonderful place. That’s probably happiness!

I reached the village of Puimoisson on the plateau’s eastern edge—only 12 kilometers left to Moustiers. I took my time, sat at a café terrace in the sun, and leisurely enjoyed a coffee while listening to the village come to life. I was delighted by these melodious southern voices, bursting into great laughter. There are places where, despite the anxieties caused by our debt-ridden, dysfunctional societies, some have decided to take life on the bright side and show a saving insouciance.

The rest of the journey was a simple formality—I let the slope carry me toward the pretty little town of Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, clinging to the cliff and famous for its faïence. Arriving early for once, I went to the tourist office to choose a comfortable hotel. Indeed, the Hôtel des Restanques was very comfortable and admirably well-located. But at this time of year, I’d have to return to the village center for dinner. The very kind receptionist reserved a table for me at La Treille Muscate, a restaurant with a magnificently arranged room on the church square. It was only 3:30 PM—I continued to take my time, showering and relaxing in front of the TV. Then I set off to explore—or rather, re-explore—this village I’d visited several times before. But I’d never climbed to its chapel perched in the middle of the great cliff towering over the houses. A stony, aerial path led there. The first mentions of the Notre-Dame de Beauvoir chapel, known in ancient times as Notre-Dame d’Entre-Roches, date back to the 9th century. It’s one of the rare "respite" chapels found in Provence. These are chapels where stillborn children were brought to be revived for a few moments, just long enough to baptize them. They could then be buried religiously, ensuring the salvation of their souls. I was also very moved by reading some ex-votos, like the one from "A mother for her three children returned from the war."

The place was impressive, especially as night fell. I was alone and watched the shadows fill the great cliffs above me. With an old climber’s reflex, I looked for possible climbing routes among these slabs and cracks. But climbing is probably forbidden here, too close to the houses. Then I descended to stroll through the village, admiring the magnificent, finely crafted faïence patterns found in many shops. Finally, dinnertime arrived, and I joined my restaurant, which had been highly recommended. I was delighted by the foie gras ravioli and the pieds et paquets—the chef’s specialty. I’ll come back with family.

Day Four: Moustiers to Fréjus via the Verdon – 122 km

A hearty breakfast prepared me for the day’s tough efforts. Next to me, four Chinese people chatted animatedly. Of course, I didn’t understand a word—it was a language with strange intonations and sounds. I left the dining room and prepared my bike on the terrace. Seeing the volume of my luggage, my Chinese friends rushed over and asked to take turns having their photo taken in front of this funny setup. All laughing, they took photos in front of what they probably considered a French coolie off on some trading business! When they show these photos to their relatives, they’ll likely be perplexed about what motivates some to travel by bike rather than car. For them, the car is a symbol of success—according to an article I read last year, 14,000 cars are registered in China every day!

This morning, the air was fresh. As yesterday, I started with a long descent, this time leading to the edge of Lac de Sainte-Croix. A strong, biting headwind slowed me down. It wouldn’t last, as it was generated by the gorge’s outlet, which I’d reach in a few kilometers. On this cold morning, the lake’s shores exuded great tranquility. The sun was still hidden behind the Verdon’s mountainous mass. Trees with yellow leaves stood out against the water’s pale blue. The bridge marking the gorge’s beginning at the lake’s edge was an ideal spot to admire this natural splendor. At this early hour, the play of light and shadow on the water and the immense cliffs delivered a grandiose spectacle in beautiful harmony. This first contact with the gorges, which I knew well, amazed me.

Once past the bridge, the wind calmed. A little further on, I began the long climb that would take me to the top of this immense natural gash, which water had taken millions of years to carve. I was in good shape and highly motivated by the splendors to come. First, I reached the village of Aiguines, which offered a magnificent viewpoint over the lake. Then I continued toward the Corniche Sublime, where countless breathtaking panoramas unfolded as I progressed. But the climb was sustained and long, requiring effort—though my small chainring worked miracles. I first passed the Col d’Illoire, already 500 meters above the lake. Seeing all these great cliffs, countless climbing memories came flooding back. The classic routes of the Escalès cliff, over 300 meters high, flashed by. Routes with legendary names—La Demande, Les Écureuils, Luna-Bong, and many others. The one that left me with the best memory was ULA—a crack, vertical or even overhanging, of sheer beauty rising above a 40-meter slab in one go for 280 meters of sustained, beautiful climbing on extraordinary rock. It made me want to return to climb there, to immerse myself in the atmosphere of those past times. But climbing habits have changed—now routes are accessed from above by rappel, and people don’t always bother to do these great climbs in their entirety, focusing instead on shorter but technically much more difficult enterprises.

At almost every bend, I stopped and scanned these great cliffs, searching for memories of past experiences and emotions in these secret rock folds. The road climbed well above the pass, exceeding 1,200 meters. It was cool, especially since I was sweating. Finally reaching the high point of the Corniche Sublime, I couldn’t gain speed on the descent—my gaze was always drawn to this astonishing canyon. Around a bend, two cyclists with funny small-wheeled bikes. Wow! It was a couple of Australians doing a year-long tour of France. We chatted passionately about our two-wheeled experiences for a moment. But time was passing, and if I wanted to reach Fréjus before nightfall, I’d have to pedal seriously.

I stopped at the Pont de l’Artuby, where bungee jumping was in full swing. But I quickly set off again toward Comps. The wind was against me, and it was climbing. I started to doubt whether I’d make it to the coast that evening. At 2 PM, I was in Comps-sur-Artuby. I didn’t stop, knowing that before reaching the coast, I’d have no alternative to bivouacking, and I had 70 kilometers left to cover. Sure, it should be downhill, but a few climbs were on the program. After a descent out of the village, I crossed the Artuby River again on the Canjuers military camp. A several-kilometer climb followed, fortunately not too steep. I took the D19 toward Barjols. From there, despite the late hour, I opted for a tiny road passing through Claviers, a small perched village. Time passed quickly, but the kilometers added up. I regained hope. Fifteen kilometers after this last village, I reached Saint-Paul-en-Forêt via a magnificent forested route. I had plenty of time to observe mushroom hunters. I asked one who clearly had some in a plastic bag. He gave me this hilarious answer with a magnificent southern accent: "I only picked the bad ones." No reply was possible. I moved on with a smile. A little further on, another hunter carried a basket. As soon as he saw me, he quickly hid it—just in case I saw what it contained. Arriving at the village involved a steep climb, and I was close to 100 kilometers. I still had a little over 20 kilometers to go before reaching Fréjus. The race against nightfall had begun. Over there to my right, I saw the sun setting behind Roquebrune-sur-Argens’ distinctive rock. The sea appeared. There it was—I was in Fréjus’ industrial zone. On this Sunday evening, traffic was heavy. Indeed, many had taken advantage of the return of good weather after very heavy storms to go for a walk. After quite a few detours, I arrived at the seaside just as night fell. My odometer showed 122 km for the day. I quickly found a simple hotel, ate just as quickly, and went to bed.

Day Five: Fréjus to Solliès-Pont – 92 km

Once again, the night had done its restorative work, and I prepared to cross the Massif des Maures feeling quite fresh. The weather forecast was still favorable for today, but a deterioration was expected tomorrow. I tended to trust it because the east wind was blowing, and in the region, that’s a sign of rain. For now, in the short term, this wind would be very useful—it would push me generously throughout the day.

I started calmly along the harbor quays, looking at the boats. Then I joined the road to Saint-Aygulf and followed the coast for forty kilometers to Port-Grimaud. All these seaside resorts—Saint-Aygulf, Les Issambres, Sainte-Maxime—reminded me of my youth when we spent all our vacations fishing, whether from shore, underwater, or by boat. Looking at the sea roll by, I knew what the seabeds looked like under that surface hiding them. The marine areas we knew best were now under the parking lots and commercial zones of Saint-Raphaël’s new port. In our youth, these infrastructures didn’t exist, and their construction came at the expense of coastal marine areas. Our wonderful fishing spots were permanently buried. I remember seeing the first big trucks that came to dump their loads of earth and rubble, destroying all those wonderful places—sandbanks, seaweed beds, groups of rocky holes teeming with fish that enchanted our youth. Over forty years later, I can still visualize them in my imagination under those parking lots and stores, with the names we gave them—my brothers and I: le casse-croûte, le casse-pipe, les montagnes, la digue, la grille, la mare à mulets, la petite-plage, le trou, etc.

Let’s not be overwhelmed by nostalgia. I left the coast and took the little road through the Maures to Collobrières. The route led from ridge to ridge following the terrain’s movements. At this time of year, the region was admirable. Due to the heavy storms of recent weeks, water was streaming everywhere. Waterfalls and streams murmured all along the way. I didn’t recognize the Maures, which I knew for their dryness causing apocalyptic fires. Indeed, around a bend, I came across a small rest area where a memorial had been erected for three firefighters who lost their lives here while fighting one of those gigantic fires fanned by the mistral.

This forest holds treasures—first, the cork oak, then the arbutus, chestnut trees, and of course, mushrooms that love this granitic soil:

The cork oak can be found all along the road. It’s the forest’s essential element. You can recognize it by its light bark (before exploitation), which forms large bulges along the trunk. But after exploitation, the trunks are much smoother, less voluminous, and dark in color. The arbutus is a large berry with red skin covered in small protuberances, growing on the arbutus tree. This fruit, common in Mediterranean areas, ripens in November. That means today, there were plenty around me. Its flesh is orange, with the consistency of firm purée, and it crushes softly in the mouth. The taste of this berry is sweet and excellent. I didn’t hold back—I gorged myself on them, which served as my midday meal. Sometimes I had to climb embankments to get them.

The chestnut tree, a true industry of the region, brings wealth to the surrounding villages. They make candied chestnuts, ice cream, and other products derived from chestnut flour. Be careful not to stop just anywhere to pick this fruit, as the tree owners might not agree. They even make this clear with signs and surround their chestnut trees with fences. Mushrooms—saffron milk caps and porcini—are highly prized in the area. I saw a few hunters, but it clearly wasn’t miraculous. Supposedly, there had been too much rain?

There’s no time to get bored along this little road, from which you can sometimes see the sea. I passed the Col de Taillude at over 400 meters. I began the descent to Collobrières, the chestnut capital, whose festival attracts many people. Before entering, about a hundred meters from the first houses, a cyclist—probably an agricultural worker—came toward me. As he passed, he cheerfully called out, "Go on, little guy! It’s almost there!" We both smiled. At the end of November, the village was cold and almost deserted. Dead leaves swept the wet streets of the town. You could feel winter on the way. I continued my route to Pierrefeu-du-Var, on the western edge of the Massif des Maures. So I gave my last pedal strokes in this pretty little massif so characteristic of Provence.

I looked for a hotel in Cuers but without success. I descended toward Toulon and finally found one on the outskirts of Solliès-Pont. It catered to people coming to work in the region, so nothing very bucolic. But if the weather were to deteriorate tomorrow and turn to rain, I could quickly reach Hyères or Toulon station, which was a significant advantage. Indeed, November rains aren’t usually very pleasant on a bike.

Day Six: Solliès-Pont to Cassis via Sainte-Baume – 85 km

This morning, contrary to the weather forecast, the weather was beautiful, and the latest bulletin seemed to contradict yesterday’s. So no escape to Toulon—I resumed my route toward Sainte-Baume. I left the hotel via a tiny road that, through ups and downs, led me via shortcuts to the road to Belgentier. My body had gotten used to intense daily efforts, and I felt in Olympic form. At a good pace, I launched into a long climb with a moderate slope. The road was busy, but fortunately, the side lane for cyclists often made the exercise more pleasant. The villages rolled by—Méounes, La Roquebrussanne. Near the latter, I observed a Tiger combat helicopter in training. It hovered motionless for long periods—perhaps the pilots were training to master their increasingly sophisticated weapon systems, requiring even more learning?

I left the busy road and headed via an almost deserted route toward the village of Mazaugues. The climbs became steeper. A long descent, and there I was in this pretty village. A grocery store, which besides selling a few ingredients also served as a café. I sat near the electric heater—it was cold, and I was sweaty. I watched customers come and go and listened to the shopkeeper tell me about village life. The name Mazaugues comes from "water mass," which is why drought doesn’t usually affect this area. Apparently, you can even find mushrooms here in summer! I had a good time, and as I was leaving, a local cyclist started a conversation and told me about her dreams of long bike trips, currently limited by her situation as a mother of terrible children. She settled for day trips with her club, which was already good in this very hilly region. I told her the story of a man who, at 73, cycled solo around Morocco. So no panic—she still had thirty or forty years to realize her wildest dreams!

I was warned that it would be a tough climb to reach Sainte-Baume’s northern slope. Indeed, over eight kilometers, the average slope was sustained, but the landscape was wonderful. Here too, water was streaming everywhere. I passed one of those famous icehouses that used to supply Marseille with ice throughout the year. This northern slope of Sainte-Baume is very cold, and this characteristic was exploited in previous centuries to produce ice. Large cylindrical structures, well-protected to the north and semi-buried, received large quantities of water in late autumn, which froze during winter and was kept cool for months until the following winter. Ice blocks were cut and delivered by cart to the city. That’s how, in ancient times, ice was available in summer to keep fish fresh in Marseille. Did pastis exist at that time? If not, the ice cubes must have been bored!

Once the climb was over, the long ridge of Sainte-Baume appeared, and I could see its characteristic antennas. Nestled at the foot of the cliffs, the magnificent millennial forest revealed itself with its autumn colors. I stopped at the monastery. I’d been there several times before and had even slept there during a long walking trip. The welcome had been first-rate by the Dominicans, especially the sisters in their long immaculate robes. They radiated a serenity that was very contagious. Don’t hesitate to stop there for the night. I struggled to get back on my way—some places have a special spirit.

I was soon at the end of my journey. I continued along this magnificent mountain to the Col de l’Espigoulier. To the north, another immense wave of white limestone rose—Montagne Sainte-Victoire, a high place in Provence that painter Cézanne made world-famous. Once at the pass, the entire city of Marseille spread out at my feet, the Mediterranean coast revealed itself from the Calanques to La Ciotat, passing by the famous Cap Canaille, Europe’s highest sea cliff. Above me, bathed in sunlight, Bartagne’s northwest face, very popular among climbers, showed all its reliefs. With an old climber’s reflex, I spotted the many climbs I’d done there. I let myself be carried into a steep, winding descent toward the village of Gémenos in a beautiful setting full of cliffs.

A few more kilometers of climbing toward the Col de l’Ange, then toward Roquefort-la-Bédoule. In this last climb, I raced with two cyclists, admittedly not very young. Then, in a six-kilometer descent, I reached Cassis station, the endpoint of my six-day journey through this wild Provençal land between sea and mountain. I experienced great pleasure during these 570 kilometers through these renowned yet wild French massifs. As always, when a beautiful project comes to an end, you feel a bit orphaned by a beautiful dream come true. You have to quickly envision the next one to avoid a vague sense of emptiness taking over. My next adventure is already taking shape in my mind, but that’s another story.

Hola!

Je vais passer tout le mois de janvier à vagabonder en argentine avec 2 autres personnes et serai sur Buenos Aires notamment pour le nouvel an. En surfant sur la toile je me suis aperçu que les argentins ne le fête pas vraiment sur BA (en partie à cause de la chaleur) et restent plutôt en famille... mais je me dis qu’il doit quand même surement s’y passer quelque chose (tout du moins pour les touristes ;) ).

Donc quelqu’un sait-il déjà où il va passer le nouvel an 2012?

Quelques bons plans secrets ou pas à dévoiler?

Pourquoi pas s’y retrouver?

Merciiiiii

Lio

Bonjour,

Etant nouvel utilisateur de forum, je suis un peu perdu 😕 alors veuillez pardonner mon utilisation (peut être!!!) peu cohérente de "voyage forum." Je suis actuellement à Shanghai, je pense de plus en plus à rentré en France en train. Je trouve diverses informations sur la toile, malheureusement je ne suis guère bien plus renseigné. Je souhaite partir d'ici fin janvier/Fevrier, j'ai déjà mon matériel d'hiver (pratique quand on vit à Chamonix). C'est ici que je suis perdu, ai je assez de temps pour faire mes Visas? Quels sont les arrêts incontournables du périple? Argent à prévoir? Durée du périple conseillée? Bref si vous avez des renseignements je suis preneur, de plus je n'ai pas énormément d'accès à Internet comme je bouge beaucoup. Donc votre aide serait parfaite. Pour finir, si je fais ce voyage, je serais seul (23 ans) si des personnes sont motivées je suis partant pour voyager avec vous 😄 . Merci

Bonjour tout le monde. J'espère que l'une ou l'un d'entre vous pourra m'aider.

Chaque année, je suis parti au Burkina pour faire du bénévolat. Je suis éducateur de métier et à chaque fois, je vais à Ouaga pour travailler au sein d'une association, en faisant des activités d'animation et du soutien scolaire aux enfants de là-bas.

En début 2012, je compte repartir quelques semaines mais cette fois j'aimerais faire 3 pays : Togo, Burkina (même endroit) et le Bénin. Pour le Togo et le Burkina, tout est ok. Par contre, pour ce qui concerne le Bénin, je n'ai pas encore réussi à trouver une association ou ONG qui pourrait m'accueillir en tant que bénévole pour faire le même job dans le domaine éducatif. Quelqu'un aurait-il svp des tuyaux, conseils, sites internet d'organismes fiables qui pourraient m'accueillir en tant que bénévole au Bénin ?

Merci 1000x d'avance pour ces précieux conseils. Je me réjouis de vous lire. :-) Alain

Bonjour a tous , Je serais seul a Bangkok du 04 au 09 Janvier 2012: je suis preneur de toutes vos idees et conseils pour mon "court" sejour la bas. Merci d avance!