Back from 15 days in the Exumas (Bahamas)

Good evening,

We spent 15 days in the Exumas from March 10th to 26th.

I should mention that we’ve been traveling to islands for 20 years, so we have points of comparison when it comes to prices, hospitality, and landscapes.

First, the flights: we now live in the Luberon, so we flew out of Marseille. We took British Airways, which we’ve used several times before for trips to the English-speaking Caribbean and which offers flights via Heathrow. We had an overnight layover in London on the way out, then a flight to Nassau. After that, we took a connecting flight (we had a 2h20 layover in Nassau, which was more than enough) to George Town with Sky Bahamas. We had initially ruled out Bahamasair based on very negative reviews. Immigration and customs were very quick.

When we arrived, we took a taxi to our hotel, Augusta Bay. Cost: $30.

We rented a car through Sure and Shore. It was delivered to our hotel the day after we arrived, and we kept it until we left for Stocking Island. For 9 days, we paid $470 (which is a great price) for a small Honda that wasn’t very new, but we didn’t have any issues with it. One thing we’d never experienced before: they’d put newspaper sheets on the floor, and we were told not to get any sand in the car if we went to the beach!

We stayed 5 nights at Augusta Bay. A 5-minute walk away is the beautiful, uncrowded Jolly Beach, perfect for swimming. We visited the southern part of the island to see the beaches of Little Exuma, especially Tropic of Cancer Beach and the one next to Santana’s restaurant. We also went to Hopper Bay Beach, where you can see a group of about ten turtles near a small boat dock. We went kayaking from the hotel.

Then we stayed at Paradise Bay in the north. While we hadn’t encountered the sandfly problem before, here it’s important to know that the beach is infested with them. The hotel’s restaurant, which is very good otherwise, even provides repellent for guests— that’s how bad it is! From there, we visited Coco Plum Beach, Three Sisters Beach (where you can snorkel), and others. We also went kayaking again.

We ended our trip with 3 nights on Stocking Island at Saint Francis Resort. If we were to do it again, we’d spend 4 nights there. The island has many trails, snorkeling spots, and you can get around by kayak. We saw rays, turtles, and even a harmless shark, as well as some beautiful beaches. Plus, the welcome at Saint Francis was the warmest we experienced.

Be aware that everything is very expensive on the island—much more so than in the English-speaking Caribbean. Clearly, the purchasing power of Americans plays a role. They say everything is imported, but that’s the case on all islands! Some places only accept cash or charge a 5% fee if you pay by card.

We didn’t find the locals particularly friendly. If you’ve been to Dominica or Grenada, for example, you’ll know what I mean.

We explored the whole island. The beaches are stunning, but the roads tell a different story. There are a lot of car wrecks—some houses have two or three in front of them, which really spoils the landscape. There are also many abandoned, ruined houses.

The vegetation is lush but not tropical, and you’ll be served apples and oranges for breakfast because there are very few exotic fruits.

As for the climate in March, there was no humid atmosphere, and the heat was very manageable (26°C). It was very pleasant. The seawater, however, is definitely cooler than in the Indian Ocean, for example.

There’s not much snorkeling, but we knew that before coming.

In conclusion: beautiful beaches, sand as fine as flour, and a very pleasant climate. But honestly, for the same cost, I’d prefer the Seychelles, for example.

Best regards.