Allez je me lance même s'il y a beaucoup beaucoup à raconter... Voyage forum m'a beaucoup aidé à préparer ce voyage, alors je vous renvoie l'appareil et j'espère que cela servira à d'autres voyageurs!
Je recopie mon journal de bord, fruit de notre périple à ma chérie et à moi au Pérou en juillet 2007.
Il y a pas mal d'infos pratiques, je suis une maniaque de l'organisation!
C'est parti.... au programme le canyon de la Colca, le lac Titicaca, le Machu Picchu, Cuzco et Puerto Maldonado...
3 juillet 2007
Voilà ça y est! Cette fois on a pas raté l'avion. Cela fait même 15 minutes que l'on est dedans, reste 11h! oups! Ceci dit on est content, on pensait que le vol était de 14h.
2 films, un plateau repas et un sandwich plus tard, on en est à 7h de vol! Reste 4 h s’il est à l’heure c'est-à-dire un film et un plateau repas sans compter les quelques promenades pipi. C’est quand même long.
La mamie espagnol d’à côté parle trop vite… l’espagnol… je suis déçue je ne comprends rien ! pfff et dire que j’ai passé du temps avec M. Assimil !
Il est 20h et on se couche ! Et oui, décalage horaire, nous ne sommes que de faibles femmes ! Un petit mot quand même avant. L’arrivée à Lima : dans le brouillard comme prévu. On le savait mais c’est étonnant. Accueil de Arturo à l’aéroport (on avait réservé sur internet), bien. Il nous emmène dehors, on sort de l’aéroport et on prend un taxi qu’il négocie lui-même. Pratique et rassurant. On ne sait pas le prix. Arrivées chez lui, vivantes, (ouf avec la conduite des gens en ville c’était pas gagné !) petite déception. Je ne sais pas à quoi on s’attendait exactement mais on a l’impression d’être chez une arrière grand-mère polonaise (euh j’ai rien contre les polonais hein !) et surtout on est gelées !! il fait 16° mais la maison est ouverte et sans chauffage comme dans les pays chaud… brrrr ça doit être la fatigue
A part le confort sommaire, le choix d’Arturo est un bon choix. Il s’est occupé de réserver par téléphone et de faire livrer les billets de bus pour Aréquipa (55$ au total), nous fait visiter Lima demain matin, nous emmène manger le midi et nous dépose au terminal de bus ensuite. Précisons que son papa a son propre taxi. Pratique
Dépense : 0 on paie tout demain
Dépense : 55 $ bus, 25$ nuit à Arturo (retrait 400NS)
Visite de Lima avec Arturo. Place d’armes, magasin et hôtel Bolivar. Hôtel réputé du Pérou. Nous y avons mangé pour 16 NS avec le fameux Pisco. Moi j’aime, ma chérie nan… trop fort ! Il est de coutume d’inviter le guide alors 48 NS au total. Nous sommes allées en bus en ville (1 NS !) effectivement c’est du sport, il faut quasiment sauter en marche, sans Arturo on ne l’aurait pas fait. Au retour un taxi (7 NS), un porte monnaie (4 NS), 2 pins (2 NS).
Vers 10 h on a pris un café avec un tamal, une sorte de galette de maïs avec des oignons marinés, c’est le déjeuner typique pour un total de 11 NS dans un café sympa où les présidents en visite vont. Oulala…
Il est 16h30 nous voilà au terminal Cruz del Sur, ma chérie goûte un Inka Cola à 2 NS pour la première fois. Verdict : « j’aime pas mais tu vas aimer ça a le goût de bonbon ». Je goûte, eh oui j’adore ça !
Taxi pour chez Arturo jusqu’au terminal : 15 NS, billet pour Puno acheté là 80 NS payé en $.
Jeudi 5 juillet
Arrivée à La Casa de Tintin… ouaaa ! Accueil au terminal, chambre disponible du matin et en plus petit déjeuner très copieux. Et non attendu parce nous sommes arrivées à 8h30. Ensuite présentation avec François de Pérou Insolite et longue réunion avec Jean Yves, mon contact privilégié sur internet à l’agence directement. Il nous explique tout ce que l’on veut savoir et nous accompagne même en taxi jusqu’au monastère.
Le monastère (30NS par personne et 20 NS pour la guide) : visite très agréable, guide très très sympa nous prenons rendez vous avec elle pour lundi midi. Nous visiterons le reste de la ville et irons manger avec elle le soir. Cool ! Une étudiante en français d’Aréquipa pour guide ça fait typique, c’est le genre de rencontre que l’on aime.
Il est 18h30 je suis crevée, y compris les jambes. Ca promets pour demain ! départ 6h donc réveil à 5h .
Journée chargée aussi bien en visite qu’en dépense. Repas midi : 22 NS pour deux petites pizzas, un inka cola et un maté coca. On s’est faite avoir, assez cher car en face du monastère. Ensuite début des achats souvenirs (il est tôt hein…) un tapis, une statue le tout pour 48 Ns. Entrée du musée des momies « museo sanctuarios andinos » 60 NS et 2$ pour la guide. Musée intéressant, film de 30 minutes sous titrés en français (ouf). La guide était un peu moins bien que Patricia du monastère. Les objets ont été trouvés petits à petits sur les tombes des inkas momifiés ou plutôt congelés dans les années 90. C’est même un peu flippant de voir Juanita, la jeune femme de 12-13 ans sacrifiée. Quand on pense qu’il y a beaucoup d’enfants, même des bébés… brrr ça fait bizarre. L’état de conservation de tout ça est impressionnant.
Ensuite ballade et courses diverses, taxi pour revenir à l’hôtel (3 NS). Il faut négocier avant de monter dedans.
Vendredi 5 juillet
19h Canyon de la Colca, je suis crevée et je meurs de faim ! Nous sommes dans un refuge, avec d’autres jeunes touristes néerlandais, anglais, canadiens. C’est marrant. Notre guide fait à manger et nous laisse papotter. Ce matin nous avions rendez vous à 6h du matin, un taxi nous attendait pour nous amener vers le terminal de bus direction Cabanaconde. Le bus est tombé en panne, nous avons donc attendu un autre bus, le premier qui passait et qui était déjà plein ! Mémorable voyage de 5h au total parmi les touristes, les guides, les péruviennes chargées de gros sacs. Il y avait même des gens sur le toit du bus. Nous avons mangé dans un restaurant local, avant de partir pour la randonnée. Nous avons descendu tout le canyon. Le guide avait fait les courses pour le soir, nous avons goûté de la viande d’alpaga c’était un peu trop dur pour moi. La viande à mastiquer j’aime pas trop. Plein de chiens, chats, poules qui traînaient là ont apprécié. C’est pas étonnant qu’ils aiment les touristes les chiens ! Le canyon est magnifique, pas encore envahi par les touristes. Par contre il fait noir à 18h et il fait froid… on a apprécié nos duvets -5°.
Je fais partie de celles et ceux qui attendent avec impatience la suite... pour repartir dans tes souvenirs et sur les traces de nos propres souvenirs péruviens...
😉
Alors, la suite de cañon, c'était comment ?
ah c'est cool, je me demandais si des gens me lisait....lol😛
Je reprends dés que je peux!!😄
Allez hop un jour de plus
Samedi 7 juillet
Il est 11h47, la traversée des petits villages de la Colca est vraiment très sympa. On discute avec les gens, notre guide y a ses habitudes et nous fait découvrir des gens, on y laisse quelques soles mais les rencontres sont sincères et marquantes. Les photos seront belles. Il y a des chiens, chats, poules… Sans oublier la jeune fille et son grand bébé dans le dos (c’est qu’il a l’air lourd et assez grand ce petit). Cette famille vit là tout le temps, ils nous accueillent et fony la cuisine avec notre guide dans leur piéce commune.
Hier nous avons donc descendu tout le canyon et là on se promène en remontant un tout petit peu. Nous sommes à Malata. Il y a un mini musée rustique, chez l’habitant. Nous avons goûté plusieurs fruits, et la fameuse chicha (accka en queschua). Moi j’aime bien. Le paysage est époustouflant, on a envie de tout filmer ! nous allons vers l’oasis où il y a des sources d’eaux chaudes. Et oui on a pris notre maillot de bain, on nous avez prévenu…. Hum hum
Le soir. Alors d’ans l’ordre : ouaaa l’oasis et OUAA mes jambes !!! Que d’émotions dans cette rude journée. Arriver à l’oasis un jeu d’enfant, mais alors la remontée ! Oulala J’ai jamais rien fait d’aussi dur en si peu de temps. Et avec nos sacs en plus malgré l’insistance de notre guide à vouloir nous les faire porter par un porteur (non mais dit donc !). En plus cette drôle de sensation de souffrir et de ne pas avoir d’autre choix que de continuer quand même… il y a rien d’autre à faire ! En plus évidemment on voulait rien montrer à notre guide… ben oui on est peu fière quand même…hihihi Nous étions donc restés de 13 à 15h à l’oasis, on s’est baigné même si c’est pas les sources d’eaux chaudes les plus chaudes du monde. Brrr. Ceci dit ça fait du bien, nous avions rigolé 10 minutes avec de jeunes enfants et l’appareil photo (ils se voyaient dedans, cool le numérique !). Très bon moment. Ensuite la remontée. 3h vraiment et 30 minutes ensuite jusque Cabanaconde, dans le noir complet il était plus de 18h. Ca a du charme marcher dans le noir à la lampe torche. La dernière heure de remontée par contre, ouaaa les jambes en feu !! Pourtant je suis sportive, j’ai vécu des entraînements durs durs dans ma vie. Mais là ! 1h de séance lactique !! Très dur pour moi aussi bien au niveau du souffle que des jambes. Les sacs à dos par contre choisi chez décath, à notre taille, impeccable (10 kilos remplis) et même pas mal au dos. Heureusement ma chérie n’était pas aussi fatiguée que moi et m’a encouragée tout le long. 1000 mètres de dénivelé en 3 heures, en montant constamment, je ne sais pas s’il y a beaucoup de randonnées de ce type…
Après le refuge d’hier, adorable mais sans eau et sans chauffage, on apprécie notre douche…presque tiéde !! brrr C’est qu’il fait vraiment froid ici, on sort avec nos bonnets et écharpes. Le guide arrive en retard et pas de très bonne humeur, il voulait que l’on sorte boire (et lui offrir) un verre, mais nous n’avions pas très envie…Heureusement les prestations de l’agence sont très bien, rien à redire.
Grande question : est ce que nous aurions pu le faire seule ? Maintenant que l’on connaît oui ! Mais la première fois, en plus première rando au Pérou…hum hum ce serait possible mais avec une bonne carte, un jour de plus aussi… car rien n’est indiqué. Vous me direz il y a pas non plus 50 chemins ! Par contre pour dormir et manger, oui sans aucun souci, c’est possible.
A l’oasis on se sentait vraiment bien, hamac, soleil, bruit de l’eau, un peu de vent, rire des enfants… une ambiance vraiment particulière. A tel point que nous serions restées toute l’après midi, palmiers, cocotiers pour nous préparer à la grande remontée. Et puis les paysages et les terrasses de ce canyon sont vraiment très beaux, différents de tout ce que nous verrons par la siuite au Pérou.
Dépenses diverses : 40 NS
ah c'est cool alors ça me donne du courage pour tout retranscrire...🙂ben c'est qu'il y a du boulot quand même!! Et encore je ne mets pas de photos... sais pas faire encore😛
Voici la suite...
Dimanche 8 juillet
De retour à la Casa de Tintin… notre chambre est... géniale ! Je crois qu’après un trek ça doit toujours faire cet effet là. Nous mangeons à l’hôtel ce soir, spaghettis bolo, c’est parfait, nous avions la flemme de ressortir (prendre un taxi et tout et tout… mouai avec le recul on se dit qu’on aurait pu se bouger un peu !).
Ce dimanche réveil 6h30 petit déj à l(hôtel de Cabanaconde pour repartir à 7h30 vers Cruz del Condor en mini bus. Quelques condors effectivement sont passés, dans ces montagnes là c’est vrai que cela donne une ambiance particulière. Et vu les paysages même si il n’y avait pas eu de condors, cela vaut le coup d’y passer un moment. On est assis sur des balustrades ou dans les rochers, plein de touristes de nationalités différentes… c’est très sympa. Il y avait beaucoup de touristes donc beaucoup de petits vendeurs. Nous avons acheté quelques petits souvenirs (et avec le recul c’était des prix corrects). J’y ai mangé un sandwich à l’avocat (ben tous les guides en prenaient alors je me suis dit que c’était bon !) pour 1 NS. Hum hum vraiment bon. A tel point qu ece midi à Chivay nous espérions manger dans un petit truc de ce genre mais non notre guide nous a mené dans une cantine à touristes ! grrr on a bien essayé d’esquiver mais il n’y avait pas grand-chose autour alors on y est allé… pfff là c’était pas tot. Mais on a bien mangé, c’était juste ambiance flunch à 12h30 dans une grande ville ! Par contre avant cela nous sommes alllés dans une piscine de sources d’eau chandes, à Chivay aussi, et là ouaa grandiose ! Après l’oasis je ne m’attendais pas à quelque chose d’aussi chaud, c’était extra. L’eau sort de la source à 75° ! Refroidi elle arrive quand même très très chaude par endroit. Là aussi un endroit à touriste, payant (10 NS je crois) car la piscine des péruviens est à côté, gratuite mais pas vraiment « claire » si vous voyez ce que je veux dire. Et quand on a demandé au guide pourquoi on était pas avec les autres il a dit « pas assez propre pour les touristes »… hum hum à méditer.
En résumé très bonne journée, paysages impressionnants mais… où sont les lamas !!
Dépenses : 10 NS bonnets
20NS une nappe
4 NS un pot
1 NS sandwich
20 NS 2 entrées piscine
32 NS repas midi
26 NS repas hôtel
Lundi 9 juillet
Oulala trop de dépenses ! Demain est une journée de bus, il faudra limiter les dégats !
12 NS Bonnet
13 NS pantalons
32 NS bijoux
85 NS restaurant
3 NS taxi
30 NS courses
Aujourd’hui grasse matinée, puis promenade tranquille à pied jusqu’au centre ville d’Aréquipa. Retour en taxi parce qu’on avait des courses. On a fait les boutiques de souvenirs jusqu’à midi puis nous sommes allées retrouver notre guide Patricia, avec laquelle nous avions rendez vous. Elle est sortie à 13h…hum mais bon j’ai même pas râlé, c’est l’heure péruvienne ! Avec elle nous avons visité les cloîtres d’un couvent jésuite puis nous sommes allées dans un « bon » restaurant (la suite me contredira vous verrez !!) pour goûter le fameux cuy (euh comprenez cochin d’inde… si si vous avez bien lu !) 22 NS le plat quand même, c’est pas rien ! Moi j’ai pros aussi un mojito à 7 NS ça fait plaisir quand on sait que chez nous c’est 9 euros !! ma chérie a pris une sangria. Bon le cochon d’inde mais sans plus, il y a pas grand-chose à manger, je ne me suis pas forcée. On dirait du lapin mais on a du mal à s’enlever de la tête que c’est chez nous une gentille petite bête…
Le reste de la journée était tranquille, en ville et à l’hôtel, on a envoyé des nouvelles à tout le monde. On va quand même pas courir tous les jours on est quand même en vacances !lol (Et vu la suite on a bien fait…….)
Mardi 10 juillet
Et ben quelle horrible journée !! Je suppose qu’il y en a toujours lors de voyage aussi long. Cette nuit (à Aréquipa donc) ma chérie a été très malade : vomissements, diarrhées, mal au dos, saignement de nez… et tout ça en même temps ! Désagréable sensation pour moi de ne rien pouvoir faire à côté de sa moitié qui souffre comme tout, et là je me suis sentie très très loin de chez nous…il y a eu beaucoup de saignement de nez (pourtant nous étions à 2500m) qui reprenaient dés qu’elle avait une nausée. A tel point que l’on se demandait si le sang provenait des vomissements ou du nez !! L’angoisse !! Vomir du sang au Pérou c’est pas le top. Mais ouf à bien y regarder c’était le nez (ben voui j’ai regardé, je restais avec elle).
Bref vraiment inquiétant et pas d’amélioration malgré les cachets habituels (immodium, ercéfuril…). Il a quand même bien fallu partir vers 14h et passer 5h30 dans un bus pourri (comparé à celui pour faire Lima Aréquipa) direction Puno. Heureusement l’hôtesse de bord (eh oui il y en avait une) était très gentille et rassurante : coton avec de l’alcool sur le ventre, médicaments, prise de température, plein de petites attentions…Parce qu’en fait là où je m’inquétais vraiment (encore plus je devrai dire) c’est que malgré tous les médocs y compris du paracétamol, elle faisait de la fièvre !! Et là c’est autre chose que la tourista ! Moi je voulais descendre du bus avec elle, en me disant que à Aréquipa les médecins seraient mieux qu’à Puno, parce que Aréquipa est une ville plus grande et pas à 3900 m d’altitude. Finalement on a bien fini par arriver, et la première chose que j’ai faite en voyant la dame de l’hôtel c’est « euh necessitamos un medico » !! Ah oui parce qu’il faut préciser que dans notre petit binome de voyage, moi je parle anglais et ma cherie parle espagnol !! Oui mais là elle pouvait plus du tout parler, elle tenait même pas debout !! Du coup, au terminal il une sorte de dame derrière une vitre qui vend des médicaments comme ça. C’est une sorte de consultation express. J’ai expliqué tant bien que mal ce qui se passé, en insistant bien sur la fièvre. Pour 3 NS on a eu 6 cachets à prendre de suite et 6h après. C’était très bien (en fait non… mais attendez attendez…lol) je m’imaginais devoir attendre un médecin puis chercher ue pharmacie. On nous amène à l’hôtel (très très bien d’ailleurs, peut être le mieux de tous, et ouf parce que… c’était loin d’être fini), sitôt arrivées ma chérie se couche et oh miracle elle dort. Je dois juste la réveiller à minuit pour prendre les 3 autres cachets.
Nous devions dés le lendemain aller au lac Titicaca pour deux jours, je téléphone et j’annule. Ou plutôt on adapte, ce sera un jour mais après demain…enfin normalement ! L’agence est très cool, l’hôtel aussi parce que sans suppléments nous y restons une nuit de plus (enfin… normalement…hihihi).
Donc demain : nada ! Repos
Et ben dites donc, on ne guéri pas si facilement d’une intoxication alimentaire (ou un truc du genre…). Ma chérie n’est pas allée mieux aujourd’hui, même si ce matin elle avait l’air pas trop mal. La fièvre est remontée, la douleur la reprise à en pleurer malgré les cachets. Là nous nous sommes décidées à appeler le médecin ce que nous aurions du faire hier soir en arrivant !! Une consultation derrière une vitre, nan mais, comment on a pu s’en contenter vu son état ! Pfff. Un médecin à touristes est venu très rapidement (commande de l’hôtel) et ma chérie a eu le droit à une énorme piqûre dans les fesses ! Un truc de fou, elle a eu mal pendant plusieurs heures. Il s’agissait d’antibiotiques assez forts et qui devait agir vite vu la fièvre. Je suis allée, moi chercher dans une pharmacie (en courant... à 4000m on le sent passer mais bon j'étais motivée) tout un assortiment de médicaments qu’elle devait prendre ensuite.
Pour préparer la visite du médecin, j’avais écrit en espagnol (en fait il parlait anglais mais je comprenez mieux en espagnol !! mdr) tous les symptômes, tous les cachets qu’elle avait déjà eu, les repas qu’on avait pris, enfin bref je lui ai tout tout dis. Moi aussi je devais décompresser, il devait tout savoir !
Après ça… c’était pas encore mieux ! Si si je vous jure. Alors que le médecin avait dit qu’en 20 minutes la fièvre tomberait !eh ben nan ! Elle avait toujours 38.5 malgré tout quelques heures aprés. 38.5…vous me direz c’est pas beaucoup, c’est pas grave ! Mais quand on est au Pérou, qui plus est à 3900m d’altidude et qu’on sait pas ce que c’est ben on psychote, je vous le dis moi… Je culpabilisais à mort sur cette pseudo consultation de la veille. Le médecin a dit 3 jours pour se sentir mieux. C’est long quand même surtout quand les douleurs reprennent, que la diarrhée continue. Ceci dit il a passé beaucoup de temps avec nous, avait l’air compétent. Alors…attendons.
Nous avons donc tout naturellement annulé l’excursion sur le lac. Je ne les sentais pas ces îles de toute façon, tout comme le séjour à Puno d’ailleurs. A croire que j’ai un 6ème sens. Il me semblait que ce serait le coin le plus touristique, ce que l’on aimerait le moins dans ce voyage (ah ben là c’est sur !)
Nous avons donc hésité à repartir dés le lendemain pour Cuzco. Moins froid, moins haut, plus touristique donc plus clean au niveau médical (pas sur en fait…). Et là le gérant de l’hôtel nous dit qu’il y a une grève illimitée au Pérou ! Tout le pays est coincé. On les avait vu défiler à Aréquipa mais on se doutait pas de l’ampleur que ça allait prendre. Nous voilà bloquées… à Puno ! Grrrr. Horreur ! (en fait non…hihihi). L’hôtel envoie quand même quelqu’un au terminal de bus et ho ! surprise fermé pour…48h ! Là c’était la panique, je me sentais vraiment impuissante, il me semblait que si on partait ma chérie guérirai plus vite. J’étais trop mal. Je pleure un coup sur le palier, seule, pour pas la paniquer (elle souffrait encore pas mal) et je prépare mes arguments : « t'inquiéte pas, c’est mieux comme ça ma chérie, tu pourras mieux te reposer, l’hôtel est bien, l’eau ici est chaude et surtout les toilettes sont propres et la chasse d’eau efficace… » Ben ouai imaginez le carnage, je vous fais pas un dessin. Tout ça au milieu de crise de vomissements et de diarrhées… J’ai du rappeler le médecin car les médicaments très importants elle les a tous vomit !! Il a failli revenir… ben oui il m’avait dit « elle doit prendre ça et ça surtout c’est important et aussi elle doit boire, elle est déjà déshydratée, sinon on l’hospitalise pour la perfuser » heiiiiiiiiin !!! je surveille tout, je note l’heure et les prises de médicaments, je la réveille toute les demi heures pour qu'elle boive l’eau spéciale de la pharmacie et là hop elle revomit tout !! Je téléphone au bord de l’hystérie au toubib qui me dit de me calmer (ah bon ben euh d’accord excusez moi… disculpa me euh…por favor…). Puis il me dicte ce que je dois lui redonner, et là si elle supporte pas il revient (non mon dieu… faites qu’elle les garde…). Ouf elle les garde. Milieu de la nuit : je ne dors pas, je la surveille. Elle ne supporte pas l’eau salée à la fraise. J'insiste un peu mais pas beaucoup (je ne veux pas qu'elle vomisse) mais elle boira beaucoup d’eau normale, tiédie dans nos draps contre nous tellement il fait froid la nuit (sinon l’eau est glacée)… Elle dort, elle vomit pas, elle a l’air moins fiévreuse… si seulement elle allait mieux… je dors enfin moi aussi…
Du mieux ce matin mais attention hier aussi le matin c’était mieux. La fièvre est tombée, les cachets du matin ont l’air pour l’instant de bien passer. Par contre l’eau spéciale à la fraise salée ne passe définitivement pas ! Nous l’avons dons abandonnée au profit de l’eau normale (tiédie contre nos corps…hum hum) et d’un peu de coca (caliente y sin gaz). Nous avons bien dormi même s’il y a eu du bruit. Ceci dit on s’est couché à 19h30… réveil à 6h pour les cachets. Prochain cachet, vers 13h, l’équivalent d’un bon smecta péruvien !! Un régal !
Du fait de la grève les bus sont plus rares. On a du prendre l’Inka Express, bus touristique avec guides et arrêts visite …que l’on voulait éviter. Le départ est à 7h30 AM et on arrive à 7PM. Pfff ça va être long ! Tanpis on veut partir de toute façon et aller à Cuzco !
Et bien je pense qu’on va s’en souvenir de ce séjour à Puno !! En fait pas de bus demain pour Cuzco à cause de la grève nationale qui paralyse tout. Du coup on reprogramme… (et c’est grâce à ce genre de chose que je vous dis que notre agence de « référence » était vraiment très professionnelle). Demain excursion dans les îles d’une journée (c’est mieux que rien) et après demain direction Cuzco en espérant qu’il y ait des bus. On téléphone à la Casa Elena de Cuzco pour dire que l’on arrive un jour plus tard… ils était pas trop contents ! A croire que cette ville si typique se fait attendre.
On a téléphoné à Jean Yves de Pérou Insolite et ils nous a raconté que des voyageurs étaient bloqués à Miami (à l’aéroport) pendant 3 jours, d’autres à Lima, d’autres à Nasca… finalement on est pas les plus mal loties. Ma chérie aura pu se reposer et récupérer totalement.
En fait c’est surtout la suite qui me préoccupe. Si on décale encore d’un jour, on devra enchaîner directement avec le trek du Machu Picchu. Et si 1 jour de plus encore…on loupe le trek ! donc le Machu Pichu ! et puis l’avion pour la jungle, le retour à Lima… oulala ce serait beaucoup d’argent perdu et beaucoup de souvenirs en moins. Allez stop calmons nous, ma femme est guérie, c’est le principal. Perdre de l’argent on s’en tape, ce serait pas la première fois ni la dernière !
Aujourd’hui on a quand même fait une toute petite ballade dans Puno, jusqu’au port et retour en tri cycle pour 5 NS. On aurait même pu lui donner plus tellement ça avait l’air dur. Ben 3900m quand même… Nous déjà que dés qu’on fait un petit truc on est essoufflé ou où on a mal au ventre… Effectivement il faut se reposer souvent.
La ville est vraiment très pauvre, en plus avec les manifestations, il y avait du verre cassé, des ordures et des pierres un peu partout. Les gens étaient calmes et n’ont jamais étaient désagréables avec nous mais ça donnait quand même une ambiance particulière (un peu genre « 28 jours plus tard» le film, au départ vous voyez… il est tout seul dans la ville…). On y a quand même acheté deux minis statues et trois saladiers qui s’imbriquent l’un dans l’autres (le grand sera cassé d’ailleurs ! snif).
Pour se souvenir : 50 cl de coca 1NS, 65 cl d’eau 1NS, des crackers 1 NS mais des M et M’s 3 NS.
C’est fou comme c’est pas cher. Quelques fois on est gênées de ne pas acheter de souvenirs tellement ils ont l’air pauvres (ici surtout, c’est la première fois que cela nous marque autant. Mais oui c’est vrai, on est que des débutantes du voyage !! c’était le premier ! hihihi). Et puis d’autres fois on se surprend à faire la moue et à vouloir négocier pour un ou deux NS alors que c’est 25 centimes d’euros pour nous… Il va nous manquer de la place je crois pour tout ramener !
Et ben drôle de journée…mitigée je dirai ! Début horrible. On a eu peur. Grosse douleur et diarrhées (encore et encore) de ma chérie. Ca va jamais finir !! On a même hésité à annuler encore la journée sur le Lac Titicaca. Finalement ma chérie a pris son courage à deux mains et a supporté la douleur pour que l’on puisse voir le Lac et les îles Uros et Taquile. Résultat : douleur toute la matinée, et crise de diarrhée en cachette sur Taquile (ah on s’en souviendra de celle là parce que des cachettes sur Taquile, sur l'unique chemin que tout le monde prend, à trouver dans les 15 secondes qui suivent eh ben il y en a pas tant que ça... Je vous laisse imaginer ! Mdr !!). L’après midi, au retour, tout était rentré dans l’ordre. Mais… à peine rentré à l’hôtel… à nouveau 3 grosses crises ! Sincèrement je crois qu’elle a perdu un litre d’eau en 5 minutes ! Un truc de fou ! Heureusement que le toubib avait dit que la diarrhée était une évacuation normale du « mauvais » (c’est une façon de voir les choses)… hum on était moins inquiètes.
La journée donc… (parce qu’il y a autre chose dans ce voyage que les cacas !! hihihi)
Nous sommes parties à 6h45 de l’hôtel en bus combi vers le port, après avoir récupéré d’autres voyageurs. 7h30 départ tranquille dans un mini bateau vers les îles Uros. Très touristiques et très commerciales, mais sympas quand même. Marcher sur des roseuax et voir ce qu’ils construisent avec est impressionnants. On a le temps de discuter un peu avec les occupant et les enfants aussi qui sont très proches de nous. Nous avons d’ailleurs de belles photos, les couleurs à cette altitude sont magnifiques. Par contre tout est payant et pour faire un tour en barque nous aurions du ajouter 10 NS par personne… Evidemment nous on ne l’a pas fait (ben oui je suis un peu radin en fait…) mais on a bien fait parce qu’en fait notre bateau allait au même endroit à 3 minutes de là sur une autre petite île. C’était un peu l’arnaque quand même ! Je disais que nous avions discuté ou essayé, et ri avec quelques enfants mais… qu’est ce qu’ils sont sales ! C’est presque écoeurant. Je ne vous ferai pas de dessin parce que c’est pas très gentils pour eux mais je tenais à le dire parce que cela m’a marqué.
Ensuite nous avons fait 2h30 de bateau vers l’île de Taquile. De beaux paysages, de belles terrasses (un peu coimme à la Colca), le plus de l’eau si particulier à cette altitude mais pour tant nous n’avons pas été conquises. Peut être à cause de l’ambiance : les enfants mendient, les papys réclament de l’argent si on les prend en photos… Si on mange et qu’on donne un biscuit aux enfants, ils crient « dos dos » sans même dire merci, sans même sourire. Bref contrairement à la gentillesse des gens de la Colca, ils ne servent pas le tourisme bien au contraire. Mais bon on ne pouvait pas ne pas aller sur le plus haut lac navigable du monde !!
Demain en route, enfin pour Cuzco. Il nous tarde de partir. Drôles de souvenirs dans cette ville de Puno (de retour à la maison ces souvenirs là sont parmi les plus forts en émotions) : maladie, grève, froid, altitudes, lac…
La grève est finie justement, nous avons vu le centre ville hier et aujourd’hui. Aujourd’hui c’était beaucoup plus vivant, il y a beaucoup de magasins et de stands.
Dépenses : 30 NS de souvenirs
2 NS biscuits crackers
27 NS repas du soir
10 $ complément pour l’hôtel.
Au sujet de l’hôtel et aussi avec le recul, nous étions dans le mieux de notre voyage sur le plan confort et service. Nous pouvions commander à manger et être livré à l’hôtel. Internet était gratuit, ils ont téléphoné souvent pour nous (même si on a payé ils nous ont dépanné)… Et c’était aussi cette partie de notre voyage que l’on pouvait modifier facilement. Bref ma chérie a été malade au bon endroit !
Quel dommage que vous n'ayez pu apprécier à sa juste valeur le Titicaca et ses îles...
J'espère que Cuzco et la Vallée Sacrée vous ont offert de meilleures journées et de belles découvertes.
Oui c'est vrai d'autant que nous devons dormir sur Amantani... la suite rattrapera tout ça!😉
Samedi 14 Juillet : arrivée à Cuzco !
Bon premier restau du soir dans Cuzco plus que bof bof…On a attendu 1 heure pour être servies, aucune explication possible sur le menu (la serveuse savait pas ce que c’était !), il n’y avait pas de coca (ben oui c’est devenu la boisson officielle de ma chérie) donc elle est allée en chercher en bas à 1 NS facturé 5 NS pour nous (oui, je sais c’est le service, et tout et tout, mais flagrant, comme ça, ça fait bizarre) et puis cerise sur le gâteau si on peut dire : 1 cheveu long noir et épais dans ma pizza !! Beurk ! On a pas fini !! lol
Nous sommes donc à Cuzco, l’hôtel est un peu décevant (mais on a remarqué que ça nous fait souvent cet effet là en arrivant) par contre l’accueil de Yves était parfait: explication, maté coca, plan de Cuzco... La chambre est vieillotte, il y a trois petits lits donc ça fait un peu petit et très encombré. La douche était très chaude (ça c’est cool). Ma chérie n’est pas emballée non plus, on se sent pas très bien en fait, c’est sombre et l’ambiance est pesante… Cela gâche un peu notre arrivée à Cuzco. Mais le peu que l’on ait vu de la ville nous paraît très beau, inca, touristique… vivement !
Aujourd’hui nous avons donc pris l’Inka express (le bus) à 25$ par personne (oups) pour faire Puno Cuzco de 7h30 à 17h. On a bien failli le louper d’ailleurs (et rester encore à Puno…hihihi) parce que le taxi ne savait pas vraiment où le terminal se situait (étonnant d’ailleurs pour un taxi… peut être un stagiaire ! lol). Il nous a donc déposé au centre ville, devant un petit bureau qui vendait des billets de l’Inka express !! Ca doit être notre excellent espagnol en fait c'est pas du tout de sa faute… Ah la barrière de la langue ! Le temps que notre cerveau se réveille, on lui hurle dessus pour pas qu’il reparte et qu’il nous emmène au terminal. Pour finir on l’a eu. Et là aussi par rapport au prospectus on était un peu décues (vous allez dire qu'on est jamais contentes…hihihi). Ben disons que pour le prix ils nous avaient dit que c’était un bus très luxueux, mouai…sans plus !Y avait pas de toilettes et moi sans toilettes je souffre beaucoup! 🤪 Les visites prévues tout le long de la route étaient payantes (of course !) donc nous avons trié, tout ne nous intéressait pas. D’autant que le guide, super speed, mettait mes bases d’espagnol à rude épreuve. Par contre, les paysages…ouaa à couper le souffle ! Fabuleux sans exagérer. C’est l’Altiplano et c’est magnifique. Du cou le voyage est passé trés vite, les arrêts ont été trés appréciés (photos à chaque fois, discussion avec les péruviens à chaque fois).
Le midi nous avons mangé dans un repaire à touristes mais mais beaucoup plus sympa et agréable que celui de Chicay. Il y avait plein de minous partout. Ma chérie a pris ses derniers cachets ce midi, elle a mangé normalement. Tout ça n’est enfin qu’un mauvais mais enrichissant souvenir.
50$ taxi guide
36 NS repas midi
140NS bolleto touristique
11 NS Terrasses de Moray
10 NS salines de Maras
3 NS coca et chocolat
2 NS maïs et chocolat
3 NS coca et eau
15 NS 1 pantalon
4 NS un collier
3 NS poupée
24 NS courses pour le trek
30 NS repas du soir
Et bien dites donc, sacrée bonne journée ! Qui en plus se termine par un bon restaurant, chose rare en ce qui nous concerne…parce qu’on est pas doué pour choisir les restau !!
Nous avons pris un taxi guide sur les conseils de l’hôtel, pour la journée et pour faire une partie de la vallée sacrée. Et malgré le prix assez élevé (tout de même 50$), nous sommes ravies. Départ à 8 h de l’hôtel, il nous a emmené à Chinchero (ruines et marché), à Moray (terrasses incas circulaires) et à Maras pour les salines. Nous avons descendu, à Maras, un petit chemin le long des salines, nous étions seules (génial, soit disant qu’il y a toujours plein de touristes…) pendant 45 minutes et il nous a récupéré au bout du chemin (c’était quasiment plus long pour la voiture de faire une boucle !). Les salines c’est aussi magnifique et impressionnant. L’eau est tiéde et très salée (euh forcément), les couleurs changent en fonction du niveau d’assèchement de la parcelle. D’où de très belles photos. Un seul bémol : des gamins étaient en train de travailler et nous ont réclamé « una propina » (une pièce, de la monnaie) et on a gentiment dis non, et on s’est copieusement faites insulter ! Comme chez nous hein, les insultes on comprends vite ! Ah les gosses hein… hihihi
Enfin nous sommes allés à Pisac où nous comptions monter aux ruines en nous promenant. Mais, par manque de temps et aussi parce que nous sommes tombés sur un fête religieuse, nous avons décidé de faire que le marché. On a quand même passé du temps à regarder la parade. C’était très marrant surtout les « bonhommes » déguisés en diable ou autre, les masques et les costumes. Et puis être pris dans une fête typique en plein milieu de la ville c’est extra et très typique.
Je pense que notre première ballade dans la vallée sacrée aura tout de même était assez complète. Les paysages sont les mêmes que dans le bus pour venir et, vraiment, c’est magnifique. Y a pas à dire, des tas de choses sont magnifiques au Pérou, mais ce coin là, c’est vrai qu’il mérite d’y passer du temps. C’est particulier, c’est assez haut en altitude, notamment en roulant on a fait une pause en haut d’un col où il y avait un lama…ben oui parce qu’en fait il n’y a pas tant que ça au Pérou. Ils sont en altitude alors jusqu’à présent on n’en a pas vu beaucoup. Du coup je trouve que l’air et l’ambiance sont particuliers. Moi j’adore !
En rentrant à l’hôtel, nous avons un petit briefing sur le trek du chemin de l’Inca. En route pour le Macchu Pichu ! Ca donne trop envie ! Nous partons avec 4 argentins. Ma chérie est toute contente, elle qui veut aller en argentine. On a eu des infos sur la façon de s’habiller, les difficultés que nous rencontrerons, sur le climat, le fonctionnement et tout et tout… Ensuite nous sommes allées dans un « cybercafé » pour la première fois. Avant c’était dans les hôtels. C’est 1.5 NS de l’heure ! Ca ne vaut pas le coup de s’en priver.
J’ai vraiment plein de bons souvenirs sur cette bonne journée. Mais je suis crevée ! Il est déjà 22h, (ouaa… laisse tomber comment on va être fatiguée demain…hihihi) c’est la première fois depuis longtemps que l’on se couche aussi tard (là vous êtes mort de rire hein ouai !?). Demain réveil 5h, et hop à nous le Macchu Pichu !
Mdr 🙂 non non ce n'est pas mon genre!! C'est juste que je ne suis pas chez moi pour une quinzaine de jours encore...🤪 alors du coup ben... je peux pas continuer😕 j'ai oublier mon carnet!!🤪 En plus j'aurai eu le temps ici...pff suis désolée!!
Un peu de patience...😛
Han ! Mais c'est sadique de nous faire poireauter là !!!! LA SUITE !! Ben alors tu vois qu'il y a des gens qui te lisent, et je t'assure que je me régale.N.
Oui oui ça fait plaisir... encore un peu de patience, je prends le train dimanche aprés midi... Lundi matin je me lèverai un peu plus tôt et je vous mettrai un petit bout!! 😉
Là ça y est, nous y sommes! Nous avons fini notre première journée vers 16h, aprés 4h de marche seulement. Il y avait quelques montées mais c'était tranquille. Demain c'est une autre histoire apparemment!
Nous sommes parties à 6h de l'hôtel pour 1h30 de bus. Arrêt de 30 minutes à Ollamtaytampo, c'est le coin des trekkeurs, rendez vous de tous les porteurs aussi pour beaucoup de groupes. Nous (euh...enfin moi...)avons pris un encas (pankaque et maté coca; un chocolat pour ma chérie qu'elle n'a bu en fait et un twix, le tout pour 12NS (🤪 trés typique!). Nous sommes reparties en bus sur une route plus que cabossée, vers le km 82 point de départ du Camino de l'Inka. Aprés 5 minutes de marche, contrôle des billets et des passeports (étonnant comme dans un parc, on fait la queue, on attend un peu, il y a plein de gens...que bizarrement on ne reverra pas vraiment alors qu'on fait le même chemin)...et zou en avant.
Nous passons devant pas mal de ruines incas et à chaque fois on a le droit à notre explication du guide. Dommage que je n'ai pas fait plus d'espagnol dans ma vie 🤪
Aprés 3 heures environ nous sommes arrivés à notre campement pour l'"almuerzo" et hum... qu'est ce qu'on a bien mangé!! Les porteurs et cuisiniers font du trés trés bon boulot (peut être payés à leur juste valeur d'ailleurs): soupe d'asperges, pain à l'ail, pâtes, avocats et macédoine de légumes, concombres, tomates, yaourts, salades de fruit et maté coca! Oui oui vous avez bien lu tout ça!! Et sous la tente en plus, tout ça avec du matos de camping! Impressionnant! Difficile de se remettre en route aprés ça, heureusement il ne restait qu'une heure de marche.
Arrivés au campement du soir... aprés un brin de toilette et un tee shirt sec, nous sommes allées nous promener dans le mini village d'à côté. Trés trés sympa, plein de trekkeurs et des animaux qui cohabitent: dindons, cochons, burros, chats, chiens. Nous sommes tous sur des minis zones mais en fait on est tranquille et on se sent toujours seuls... pas du tout ambiance touristique. Là on va avoir le droit à une petite collation, il est 17h. Puis à 19h on mange et ce soir nous aurons soit disant une petite surprise... on croit que les porteurs vont chanter ou danser... lol je suis pas une danseuse moi, je m'inquiète un peu...
Dépenses pour tout le trek:
12NS et 3NS
9 NS chocolat et un twix (encore!!)
16 NS boissons et friandises
20 NS pourboires
34 NS sandwicg et café
28 NS restaurant
5 NS photo souvenir
4 NS eau et fanta
1 NS toilette
Il est 13h30 et nous venons de terminer la journée de la mort qui tue! 🤪 Et on s'en est pas trop mal sorties, je crois que l'on peut le dire! Nous avons mis 3h15 pour monter à 4215 mètres (on partait pas de 0 hein ça va de soi...lol) et 1h15 ensuite pour rejoindre le campement. Et nous avec nos sacs à dos, et on en est fière!! Oui on peut se faire porter les sacs si on veut, on doit payer un porteur en plus. Je crois que c'est 50 euros à peu prés pour tout le trek.
La montée était bien rude quand même, surtout la dernière entre 4000m et 4200m. Nous n'avons pas souffert de l'altitude (maux de tête) et en ce qui me concerne c'est encore mes jambes qui me trahissent. Je récupère vite de l'essoufflement provoqué par l'effort et le manque d'oxygène mais je manque un peu de cuisse je crois... Les gens qui nous accompagnaient on eu un peu plus de mal. Une famille argentine rappelons le: un homme de 45 ans graphiste pas sportif, une maman de 38 ans prof de bio (qui a beaucoup souffert) pas sportive du tout et deux enfants une fillette de 12 ans qui aime pas le sport (?!)et un petit gars de 14 ans qui joue au tennis. Le garçon est resté avec nous pendant la montée, le Papa est resté avec sa fille et le guide est resté avec la maman. Elle est arrivé en pleurant de fatigue mais applaudi par sa famille et nous qui criaient "vale mama! bravo mama!". Sacré tempérament cette mama! Un grand moment, un col à 4215m, la montagne, l'ambiance, l'effort, les émotions partagées par tous et le paysage! ouaaa! Il y avait pas mal de touristes forcément, là la pause est plus longue. Mais franchement bonne ambiance, un peu comme ci on était tous conscient d'avoir fait et vécu quelque chose d'exeptionnel, on a tous cette expérience en commun! J'ai adoré ce moment.
La descente a du leur paraître difficile. En fait c'est le piége de croire que c'est fini et que l'on a fait le plus dur. Du coup, la fin c'est toujours plus long que ce que l'on croit. Mes cuisses m'ont rappelée à l'ordre pendant la descente...mais bon "c'est du bon mal" comme je dis souvent à mes élèves 🤪 (qu'est ce que je peux dire comme conneries!! grrr)
Là nous attendons les argentins pour manger et l'aprés midi est "libre". les porteurs nous ont bien entendu archi dépassé, les tentes sont montées, la cuisine aussi et le repas est en train de chauffer. Toujours trés impressionnant! Cette aprés midi, sieste donc puis goûter à 17h puis re sieste et repas à 19h30.
Alors hier soir effectivement ils nous ont chanté un petit truc et nous ont a gigoté un peu. Mais aprés les argentins ont du chanter un petit truc aussi et bien entendu... ben... nous aussi on a du chanter...en français (ouf c'est déjà ça). Devinez ce qu'on a chanté, là tout de suite fallait faire vite et connaître les paroles (euh on se sentait pas de leur faire la marseillaise!)... alors une idée?... Bon vous promettez de le dire à personne!! On a chanté "une souris verte"!! mdr c'est la seule chanson qu'on connaîssait par coeur! Heureusement ils comprennaient pas! La honte!
Ce soir il peut faire jusque -5°! La nuit dernière nous n'avions pas eu froid. On a nos supers duvets de chez Décath résistants à moins dix et qui coûte 130 euros!! Alors hein..si on a froid... remboursez!
Maintenant il est 18h20, on vient de goûter!! lol C'était extra! Des pop corns frais, un chocolat chaud...hum qu'est ce qu'on mange bien. C'est incroyablement plaisant, je ne pensai pas que l'on serai aussi soigné. Ils vieillent même nous réveiller avec un maté coca dans la tente le matin! Sisi j'avais oublié de le dire. S'il devait manquer un truc c'est lors de la montée, ce matin. En fait, il y a eu deux grosses pauses. Et lors de la deuxième, un groupe avait une collation chaude. Et vu qu'on était déjà bien haut, même si on faisait des efforts on a trés trés vite froid. Brrr je m'en souviens je suis allée faire pipi! L'herbe était gelée à côté de moi. Donc j'aurai apprécié une pause avec une boisson "chaude". Mais bon... là je chipotte.
C'est marrant les campements aussi. L'ambiance trekkeurs. On rencontre des gens de tous les pays. Les belges parlent toutes les langues c'est fou, on se sent ridicule! mdr Mais bon j'ai pas peur du ridicule et à chaque fois je les fais rire alors...
Demain est une journée plus longue mais moins difficile.
Ah oui je me souviens que le soir, le garçon a été malade. Il a vomi, il avait mal à la tête, il a pas mangé et il s'est couché trés tôt. Le guide lui a fait sentir une plante, lui a donné une tisane (sa maman lui a donné un paracétamol quand même 😛). Verdict: sans doute l'effort physique, la fatigue donc et l'altitude. Le lendemain matin il pêtait le feu!! Ah les gosses, quelle santé!
Et ben voilà, encore une journée de passée. Aujourd'hui 2 cols aux alentours de 3600 m. Nous sommes arrivés au campement un peu avant 16h. Les paysages sont toujours aussi beaux et nous marchons de mieux en mieux je trouve. On a même fait la descente à fond la caisse... genre à la vitesse des porteurs 🤪sauf que pour nous c'est à fond la caisse!! 1h au lieu de 2h prévues. On a bien essayé de suivre un porteur...pfff moi il m'a laché au bout de 5 minutes, 10 minutes pour ma chérie... Ils sont trop forts.
Le campement pour ce dernier jour est le plus "moderne". Il y a une sorte de restaurant / brasserie/refuge pour les trekkeurs, avec des toilettes grands et propres, une salle à manger type cantine, et des autocollants souvenirs de tous les trekkeurs passés par là. J'aime beaucoup, c'est en toutes les langues.
Là je suis bien crevée. J'ai le dos en compote et les jambes lourdes. Nous renonçons à la douche chaude, c'est 5NS par personne. Et puis c'est pas top au niveau propreté et organisation (du campement). Nous persistons dans la technique de la lingette!
Il est 16h45, la maman a du encore souffrir aujourd'hui, elle était bien fatiguée et avait mal à la tête. Elle était bien lonhue cette descente quand même, dans un chemin de terre, un peu glissant...
Ce soir, comme c'est le dernier soir, il est prévu que le mange avec les porteurs et aprés il a une fête (hum hum on va chanté...🤪) mais vu l'état du pseudo restaurant je me demande ce que cela va être...
En tout cas demain matin réveil prévu tôt pour partir à 5h30 et pour arriver avant tout le monde au Macchu Pichu!!!! On s'en l'envie qui monte, on est tous pressés!
Et ben quelle nuit!!! Il est 4h30 du matin, nous sommes déjà prêtes et on est pas les seules! Nous avons même déjà déjeuné. Quelle histoire!! Mémorable! Depuis minuit il pleut à fond de chez à fond!Une vraie pluie tropicale. Croyant que la tente serait inondée en trés peu de temps, on est sorti pour se mettre à l'abri. Mais le restaurant étaitfermé, personne à l'horizon sauf... sous le préau tous les porteurs qui dorment sans tente, à même le sol, recouvert de baches en plastique... entre les marmittes, les sacs et les poubelles!!! Ouaa. Tout ça dans le noir et sous des seaux d'eau. Le plus impressionnant c'est que habitués à tout ça, au bruit ils dormaient et ronflaient presque tous! Bref nous on tournait un peu en rond, on étaient les seules sorties de notre tente (euh oui j'avoue c'était mon idée...🤪) et il pleuvait pleuvait... On s'est retrouvé sur deux tabourets, côte à côte comme des malheureuses, à moitié endormies et à moitié sous la pluie, sous le préau à côté des "porteurs dormeurs ronfleurs"! (quand j'y repense je suis morte de rire! je ne comprends pas pourquoi on est pas retourné dans notre tente!!)
1h30 aprés (c'est long quand même 1h30 sur un tabouret dans la nuit!!) une alcamie... il était 2h30 à peu prés. Sur une brillante idée de ma chérie "euh on retournerait pas dans la tente?" nous sommes retournées dans la tente... et oh surprise... qui n'était pas du tout inondée!! mdr. Comme a dit ma chérie, "on aurait mieux fait d"y rester!! " oups qui a eu cette brillante idée!? Les argentins qui eux ne sont pas sortis, ont eu moins de chance. Leurs tentes étaient trempées, leurs affaires aussi. Heureusement c'était le dernier jour.
Les porteurs se sont réveillés plus tôt parce que quand même au bout d'un certain temps la pluie a fini par réveiller d'autres personnes que nous! Ben oui sur les 500 touristes... pourquoi il y avait que nous dehors! C'est bizarre non!! Bref petit déj royal encore, dans le restaurant/refuge (c'est un abri en fait) et tous les groupes ensemple. Ca c'était trés trés cool. Tous frigorifiés, tous trempés, tous impatients de voir le Macchu Pichu...
Il est donc 04h45 là, il pleut toujours à fond... On se demande si on verra le Macchu Pichu au sec... le camescope? l'appareil photo? On serait deg de devoir limiter les souvenirs "numériques"!!
Alors pour se rendre au Macchu Pichu il y a encore 1h à pied et une sorte de "porte" où on montre nos billets avant d'y aller... Il faut donc attendre l'ouverture à 06h! Donc comme il est 4h45 et qu'on est prés, j'ai encore le temps!
Hier soir il y avait une petite fête donc. Nous avons mangé tous ensemble avec lesporteurs. Nous leur avons fait un petit "pot" supplémentaire de poureboire parce que leur salaire est vraiment maigre. Et aussi parce que le guide a dit que c'était la tradition. Ceci dit on a tellement bien mangé, bien été soigné qu'on peut bien faire ça. Et puis là au moins on est certain que ça va dans leur poche! Il y a eu un petit discours, on les a tous félicité et remercié (ils étaient tous morts de rire quand j'ai parlé...en espagnol!! m'en foue suis pas susceptible... sur ça!). Ouf on a pas dansé!! lol on est allé dormir et heureusement parce que comme vous savez, à minuit on était réveillé!! à minuit 30 sur notre tabouret!! mdr
Wouaaa grand saut dans le temps: il est 14h47!!! Nous sommes dans le train tous ensemble, les argentins bien sûr mais tous ceux qui ont fait le trek avec nous. C'est trés spécial comme ambiance alors que les autres touristes visitent le Macchu Pichu comme à Eurodisney en 1 jour même pas... alors nous on trouve qu'on a fait quelque chose d'extra! Na! Le train passe vraiment trés trés prés des magasins, des gens et des restaurants. Il nous amène d'Aguas Calientes à Ollamtaytampo en 1h40 puis en mini bus, on mettra 1h30 jusque Cuzco. C'est marrant ce train, il est trés typique... mais c'est pas évident d'écrire!
La journée donc... (c'est ça que vous attendez hein?...hihihi) nous sommes partis à 5h10 sous une pluie battante. Tous à la queuelele, c'était galère, dans le noir à la lampe torche! Enfin nous parce que les argentins avaient qu'une toute petite loupiotte pour eux 4! Le jour se lève tout doucement et horreur c'était tellement tout gris que je ne voyais pas comment la pluie pourrait s'arrêter. (Ben dans ch'nord quand il pleut et que c'éto tou gris, hein, euh y'n'a pour un bou'temps)Le Macchu Pichu sous la pluie, c'est trop bête!
Et puis non! Miracle!! Vers 7h, quand on est arrivé à la porte du soleil... euh nan... el puerta del sol ça s'est arrêté! Tout le monde était trempé trempé. On avait pas chaud du coup, j'étais deg et frigorifié même crevée en fait. Et du coup ben...je râle. Et je n'étais pas la seule, un peu de mauvaise humeur on a même été déçues du Macchu Pichu... et oui, il est tout petit vu de là. La première impression était bof bof (un truc du genre "tout ça pour ça"... rassurez vous ça va changer!!). Il nous paraissait tout petit, perdu dans le brouillard, on voyait pas grand chose. Snif. Bref la vue de la puerta del sol : bof!
Mais... mais... la magie a faitt son effet petit à petit... plus on se rapprochait, plus on était comme envouté, euphorique, c'était magique!
La puerta del sol c'était trop loin, et plus on avaçait plus c'était impressionnant. 45 minutes aprés on y était. ouaa. En chemin, on croise des lamas, pas vraiment décidés à nous laisser passer (crise d'hystérie du guide qui a eu sa frayeur de la journée: ma chérie a voulu pousser un peu le lama...au bord du ravin! "heyyyy no no! Cuidado!! Cuidado!!! " j'adore ce mot!), puis d'autres sur les terrasses incas comme à la télé et dans Tintin.
Avant de visiter à proprement dit, nous avons simplement traversé pour aller tamponner les passeports (hum la class!) et déposer les sacs à dos qui sont interdits (un vestiaire payant). On était les seuls, je veux dire ceux qui ont fait le trek sont les premiers, le Macchu Pichu à nous (parce que ça va pas durer!). 500 trekkeurs dans tous le macchu pichu ça fait pas beaucoup, comme sur le chemin, tout on long du trek...on était seul! C'était trés sympa. On a fait une pause, il devait être 8h on s'est réchauffé tout le groupe autour d'un café et sandwich... au poulet!! Trés cher mais trés bon avec le sentiment trés agréable d'avoir fini, de l'avoir fait ensemble. Et en fait être arrivé sous la pluie ajoute à ce sentiment de fierté, on était bien et heureux... c'est ça le Macchu Pichu!
Ensuite... on y retourné bien sûr....
Ensuite donc... nous sommes montés tous ensemble avec le guide pour la visite proprement dite. On a eu le droit à 2h d'explications/visite. C'était bien mais il parlait vraiment trop vite et puis on était fatigué alors mon niveau d'espagnol a un peu chuté... Et puis mine de rien (euh je veux pas jouer la rabat joie hein!)c'est toujours un peu les mêmes explications à savoir: lieu religieux, tombe, culte de l'eau, hôtel de sacrifice, construction agricole... Ma chérie retient mieux que moi tous ces trucs là (en fait, faudrait recopier son carnet de ce même voyage et comparer!! ils sont trés différents!), moi je voulais tout filmer (Ben oui j'avais pas encore mon super appareil photo génial réflex bien sûr offert par toute ma famille pour mes 32 ans!!! alors je pouvais pas faire des photos...snif), je trouvais que c'était mieux de regarder (oui je suis un sale gosse je sais!!!). Il y a vraiment un petit côté mystérieux propre au Macchu Pichu et entretenus par les guides: pourquoi sont ils partis sans laisser de traces et sans finir les constructions? Il n'y a pas de cadavres (donc ni une guerre ni une épidémie), les espagnols n'ont pas trouvé cette cité (pas de traces de pillage). Du coup il y a mille théories... mais euh là toute de suite je ne m'en souviens plus!!
Notre guide était trés bien. Il a su mettre une bonne ambiance et cela rapidement. Il nous expliquait ce que nous allions faire au fur et à mesure et en combien de temps nous le ferions. Il a commenté beaucoup de choses, les ruines, les champs, les chemins... Il a raconté les histoires "qui font peur" du soir autour du feu sur les esprits de la montagne. 😛Encore une fois si j'ai un regret c'est de ne pas comprendre l'espagnol mieux que ça. Si nous allons en Argentine ou au Mexique, j'aurai une motivation supplémentaire!
(Tout le monde dort dans le train... Sauf ma chérie qui parle et rigole en espagnol avec la petite fille du groupe).
Pour conclure sur ce trek...
J'ai aimé le chemin, les cols, l'épreuve physique, les différents paysages, odeurs changeantes et les différents climats (venteux, puis froid et sec puis humide, puis chaud...tout ça sur seulement 42 km).
J'ai aimé le Macchu Pichu, beaucoup plus avant 10h d'ailleurs qu'après, dans le brouillard c'était mieux en fait!! (Les photos sont "mystiques". Les nuages passent, le brouillard se "soulève").
J'ai aimé notre groupe, les porteurs inclus évidemment, les campements, les repas et cette ambiance de randonneurs.
Mais plus que tout j'ai aimé, adoré partager ces moments là avec ma chérie: nos pauses loin de tous, nos essoufflements, les nuits froides et humides passées côte à côte dans nos super duvets, les discussions avec les argentins et les traductions rien que pour nous deux... nous n'oublierons jamais cette petite aventure de 4 jours! Et je souhaite à tous les amoureux (et futurs amoureux 😉 ) de vivre ça avec votre moitié!!
Et bien moi qui aime tout prévoir à l'avance... je suis servie!! Les Pléïades à Cuzco n'ont pas pris notre réservation en compte donc hier soir vers 19h, complètement épuisées nous étions dans la rue sans hôtel. Cette femme de l'hôtel nous a bien aidé mais c'était complet partout. Elle a téléphoné à différents hôtels et pensions mais celle qu'elle nous proposait (ou plutôt là où elle nous a larguait) était à 45 $ et toute vieillotte! Nous sommes donc reparties. On a ien eu 5 ou 6 refus (full!) pour enfin trouver un petit truc presque en face de la Casa Elena, grâce au portier d'ailleurs. Parce que Yves (le proprio de la casa Elena) avait autre chose à faire, il mangeait avec des amis et ne s'est même pas déplacé pour nous parler ou nous aider... Il était complet donc c'est tout, allez voir ailleurs! On était dég!
Bref aprés la grosse déception (oui oui tout est relatif...lol) psychologiquement parce que les Pléïades c'était notre petit luxe parce que c'était cher, un peu plu schic, là ça va mieux. On a déjeuné à notre hôtel malgré l'invitation des Pléïades pour le petit déj (pour s'excuser) et c'était bien. On a eu du vrai café et le petit gars tout seul qui court partout est trés gentil. On aura le droit à une autre chambre matrimoniale en revenant de notre promenade. Et puis mine de rien ça fait 60 $ en moins... donc on va rester là! Et puis comme on est fatiguée et courbaturée, on ne sait pas si demain on fera la Vallée sacrée une deuxième fois... Ca coûte encore 50 $ et puis on a pas eu le temps de visiter Cuzco encore.
Là ma chérie est sur internet... un peu fatiguée, encore fragile des intestins mais ça va.
Nous voilà requinquée. Il est 13h, nous avons notre chambre double donc avec un grand lit (lol) et des fenêtres (oui dans l'autre chambre il n'y avait aucune fenêtre... ça fait drôle). Il y a une mini terrasse où les duvets sont en train de sécher. C'est important une fenêtre, on dirait pas. Cette nuit j'ai fait un "mini cauchemard" d'enfermement... Etonnant. Là c'est bien mieux, bien plus grand, éclairé, bref un régal et tout ça pour le même prix!
Ce matin nous sommes tombées sur un défilé d'écoliers Plaza des Armas. J'ai beaucoup filmé, il y avait plein de monde. La fanfare a même joué la Marseillaise (mais pas pour nous hein...). Un petit bonus qui nous a fait sourire.
Ce midi on a pas vraimet mangé: chips, coca et inka cola et snickers!!! Ben bien! C'est nl c'est vrai mais quand on est fatigué, et que nos intestins sont un peu tourmentés, on préfère du chimique!! lol
Bon fin de promenade et... plus de place pour aller à Huaraz! La seule semaine qui n'était pas réservée en avance...pfff. Du coup on se demande si le programme de notre dernière semaine ne va pas changer. La rando a l'air assez rude, on dort à 4200 mètres, on passe un col à 4700 mètres! En même temps ça nous attire vachement et ça nous fait peur. C'est un gros budget aussi... hum hum on verra bien.
Hello everyone, For our latest 3-week family trip (yes, the kids are growing up, and two of them are about to enter the working world), we re heading to South…
Here we go with this second travel journal dedicated to the American West! It’s a must when you love it! 😊
We had left off in the charming town of Bisbee, which once thrived thanks to its copper mines. Today, mining is a thing of the past, and the town seems a bit sleepy.
Unfortunately, I didn’t dig deep enough on-site to answer all the questions my observations raised. Guess I’ll have to *dig* into the subject a bit more... no pun intended! 😊
Let’s hop back in the car and head a little further south to check out the esplanade that offers a view—if you can call it that—of the impressive open-pit mine.
Then, it’s off to the Lowell neighborhood.
Preserved almost exactly as it was, this area must’ve been bustling in its heyday. The vintage cars are still around, storefronts and signs look like they’re straight out of another era, and the whole place has a pretty amazing vibe. You’d almost think you were on Route 66!
Here, we’re not just discovering an old neighborhood—it’s a little slice of American history. And, a detail that’s great for my physical health: the area isn’t too spread out.
Lucky me! 😊
I won’t post too many photos here since I think I can turn them into a future photo exhibit. Between these and some shots from Route 66, I should have more than enough material! So, let’s keep a few under wraps... to preserve the surprise. 😊
Alright, this year, we're heading back to South America!
The initial plan was to retrace the route we imagined in the summer of 2020: a trip to northern Argentina starting from Córdoba.
Unfortunately, the flight to Córdoba no longer exists, and airfares to Javier Milei’s country are both outrageously priced and involve multiple layovers.
So, I tweaked Google Flights every which way and finally found a flight within my budget—departing from Clermont-Ferrand!
Not to Argentina, though...
Our transatlantic flight will cross the snow-capped Andes, landing in Santiago, Chile, with a return from Lima!
In between, two domestic flights and a big road trip loop starting from the coastal city of Arica to explore the treasures of northern Chile.
Our mode of transport: a pseudo 4x4 that won’t take us through sand dunes or devilish tracks but will let us tackle the entire secondary network, including unpaved main roads, while still being insured.
Is the suitcase packed with all-season clothes?
Are the driver’s license and passport ready?
Bank cards and a few euros too?
Off we go for just over 3 weeks of southern wanderings!
--/--
To keep all my esteemed readers on track, here are a few maps outlining the Arica-Arica loop!
1- From Arica to San Pedro de Atacama via Pica and the Salar de Huasco
2- Around San Pedro
3- From San Pedro to Cariquima
4- From Cariquima to Putre
5 - From Putre to Arica
Gas stations in this part of Chile are located in Arica, Iquique, Pozo Almonte, Pica, Calama, and San Pedro de Atacama.
I’m reposting here a travel journal originally published on the Routard forum in 2022 during VoyageForum’s hiatus. Without altering its content, I’ll try to streamline it. The few comments on the political situation reflect my feelings at the time and don’t account for events since then! I’d rather avoid debates on the topic. The photos are nothing fancy—just illustrative.
The context: we’re coming out of COVID. We’re looking for a not-too-distant destination, and Jordan has been catching our eye for a while. After some thought, we wonder if we shouldn’t take advantage of the geography to hop over to Israel. After all, Jerusalem is less than 100 km from Amman. Plus, Transavia lets you combine both destinations.
To plan our trip (February 19 to March 4, 2022), we contacted three French-speaking agencies in Amman. Their itinerary proposals were pretty similar, but the prices varied significantly. Given the many positive reviews we read on travel forums and a very attractive rate compared to competitors, we quickly settled on Ahmad Ababseh’s agency. Still, deep down, we had a slight worry—so many glowing reviews seemed a bit over the top, but we took the chance.
During the preparation, which happened in a very short timeframe (less than 10 days), Ahmad didn’t provide detailed roadbooks, and we made do with brief email or phone exchanges. Few details were shared either. We discussed hotels, with Ahmad preferring the ones he knew. We picked our hotel for our arrival in Amman, but before agreeing, Ahmad insisted on inspecting the rooms.
For payment, Ahmad only asked for a 500 € deposit and trusted our word for the balance, which we paid upon arrival. He also committed in writing to refund the full deposit if our trip was canceled due to COVID.
Finally, for the Israeli part, Ahmad contacted an agency in Jerusalem to handle the logistics. He didn’t take a commission.
Hi everyone, I’m Patrick, 67 years old, a seasoned traveler (already 22 trips outside Europe).
In autumn 2025, I took my first 3-week trip to Japan, with stops in Tokyo, Kamakura, Matsumoto, Kamikochi, Takayama, Kanazawa, Kyoto, Nara, Osaka, Koyasan, Tokyo again, and Nikko.
I wanted to go back in May 2026 and explore some lesser-known places to complement my first trip.
Last year, there were four of us traveling together to discover Japan (a fairly classic itinerary). This time, I’ll be traveling solo for part of the trip and with a couple of French friends for the rest.
The weather was gorgeous in May, averaging around 25°C, with two very hot days in Kyoto and only two rainy days.
As usual, I organized everything myself, gathering plenty of information from various sites, including this one.
Transportation:
An ICOCA card is essential.
I got a 5-day Kansai-Hiroshima pass because I took the shinkansen between Hiroshima and Osaka three times, and it paid for itself quickly.
Accommodations:
Mostly through Booking. No issues at all. Average cost was 46 € per night.
Meals:
For breakfast, I alternated between buying food at a konbini to eat in my room or on the train and grabbing something at local cafés.
For lunch and dinner, I tried to vary my meals as much as possible—lots of sashimi, sushi, and ramen.
Okonomiyaki in Osaka and Hiroshima.
Oysters in every form (raw, grilled, fried) in Onomichi and Hiroshima.
A variety of seafood (shrimp, shellfish) in Hiroshima and Matsumoto.
Fish whose names often escaped me, but notably mackerel and eel (unagi).
Tempura and gyoza.
Chicken skewers (yakitori) and one teppanyaki meal.
One omakase meal (9 different dishes).
In the end, not much meat aside from a few yakitori skewers. No splurges on super expensive wagyu or Kobe beef.
Average dinner cost: 4,800 yen, drinks included.
The Itinerary:
Day 1: Departure from Brussels
Day 2: Arrival in Osaka
Day 3: To Himeji, then Kurashiki
Day 4: To Fukuyama, then Tomo no Ura, then Onomichi
Day 5: Cycling the Shimanami Kaido
Day 6: To Takahara, then Hiroshima
Day 7: To Kyoto to attend the Aoi Matsuri parade
Day 8: To Miyajima
Day 9: Hiroshima, then Kyoto
Day 10: Southern Kyoto
Day 11: Northern Kyoto
Day 12: Final day in Kyoto, then to Nagatsugawa
Day 13: Start of the Nakasendo Trail (Magome to Tsumago)
Day 14: Second day of the trail (Kiso Fukushima)
Day 15: Third day of the trail (Narai), then Matsumoto
Day 16: To Mt. Fuji (Kawaguchiko)
Day 17: To Tokyo
Day 18: Excursion to Enoshima and Kamakura
Day 19: Flight home, with a 10-hour layover in Hong Kong
Day 20: Arrival in Brussels
Off to Southern Africa again! This time, the trip wasn’t just about wildlife—it was also about the local cultures and the breathtaking landscapes Mother Nature has to offer. It was an emotional rollercoaster in every way, as you’ll see.
We visited two countries: Zambia, known for its reserves, and Malawi, which is less well-known but absolutely worth a visit. Our flight landed in Lilongwe, Malawi’s capital, where our vehicle was waiting—though with a 3-hour delay. It was a 4x4 without the rooftop tent this time, since we stayed in lodges (prices are very reasonable in Malawi). Just a heads-up: don’t exchange money at the airport or banks—the official rate was 1,750 Malawian kwacha to $1. On the black market, the rate was between 3,000 and 3,500 kwacha, making the cost of living much cheaper.
With that out of the way, our first stop was South Luangwa National Park in Zambia. The first hiccup came at the Malawi-Zambia border: we were missing a document the rental company had forgotten. After some back-and-forth, they sent it via WhatsApp ($20 to get it validated by the police). But things got worse—the car’s chassis number was off by one digit from the registered one. I thought our trip was over before it even started! After what felt like forever, we got through with a "tip" of $200. Total border crossing time: 3 hours, costing nearly $400. We arrived in South Luangwa after dark.
Thankfully, the next day made up for it with an incredible day in the park (check out the photos).
We spent two full days in South Luangwa before heading to Katete for the Kulamba ceremony.
Kulamba is an annual event held at the end of August, celebrating the Chewa people, who live across Zambia, Malawi, and Mozambique. The Chewa king attends, and representatives from neighboring nations bring offerings. Thousands gather for dances, speeches, and a massive market. There are few tourists, making it a truly authentic experience.
After a few days in Zambia, we returned to Malawi (the border crossing this time was smooth—just 45 minutes). Next stop: Lake Malawi.
Lake Malawi covers over 20% of the country and stretches 580 km. It’s home to a family of fish called cichlids, some of which are endemic to the lake. I recommend taking a day trip from Cape Maclear for snorkeling and to watch the fishing eagles swoop down to catch fish.
We hit the road again to visit Liwonde Reserve, where we had a few surprises. The lodge was on the other side of the river that borders the park, and the elephants didn’t seem to care. On the way from reception to our rooms, elephants blocked our path, and one even charged just before the stairs leading to our treehouse-style rooms.
To top it off, monkeys ransacked our rooms, tearing through plastic bags for food. A mixed experience, but no real harm done.
Next up: the mountains, specifically the Mulanje Massif. This is where Malawi’s tea is grown, and it’s also a great spot for day hikes or multi-day treks. The scenery is stunning, though sometimes the mist rolls in and hides it.
After the mountains, we visited another reserve: Majete. The park is growing and now has more wildlife. We saw lions and even caught a fleeting glimpse of a leopard. And of course, the elephants got involved again—this time giving us a real scare.
During the morning game drive with a guide, we stopped to watch a herd of elephants feeding. Everything was fine until, for some reason, a female got spooked—probably for her calf—and positioned herself in front of us on the track. After a few minutes, we thought the elephants would move on, but then a young one started provoking us. The problem? We had females and calves in front of us, but also two large adult males—one behind us and one to the side.
We were trapped, and even our guide looked nervous. After what felt like an eternity (though it was only a few minutes), the herd finally moved on, freeing the track. That afternoon, we did a self-drive safari and—you guessed it—we had zero interest in running into elephants again.
The next day, we headed back to Lilongwe for our flight home. It was a fantastic, varied trip with some intense moments (sometimes *too* intense). Malawi offers amazing opportunities for those who want more than just wildlife reserves.
I’m sharing a little recap of this new 4-week trip to China—nothing fancy, just my experience.
We’re taking advantage of the extended visa exemption to return to China for the 4th time. I loved last summer’s trip so much that I’m a bit worried about being disappointed this year. Plus, I’ve had a few hiccups before this departure: my WeChat account got blocked, and I couldn’t recover it (luckily, Alipay still works fine); I couldn’t verify my 12306 account for weeks; Trip.com failed to book our second train; and I’ve got an injury that’ll slow me down during the trip... Ugh, I hate starting a trip with these kinds of issues. Then, oh surprise! Just before leaving, my 12306 account got verified! Super easy to use from that point on—I could book a few train tickets without fees.
We’re sticking with Free’s e-SIMs, which work great in China.
August 2–3
Anyway, on the morning of August 2nd, we took the RER to CDG. As usual, we couldn’t check in online. It’s always a bit frustrating, especially since we didn’t have any checked luggage. We flew with Air China. We arrived at the check-in counter at 9:50 AM, 2 hours and 40 minutes before the flight. The line for our check-in stretched 300 meters across the airport in both directions. What a joke!! We spent 1 hour and 45 minutes in that line just to reach the counter and get our boarding passes. By then, it was 11:35 AM, and boarding had already started at 11:20 AM. The screens showed a 25-minute walk to our gate—on the other side of the airport, of course—plus we had to go through passport control and security... Long story short, the plane didn’t leave without us 🙂 We boarded among the last passengers, and we took off at 12:30 PM. We’d flown Air China four times before, but this time, it felt *really* low-cost. The check-in chaos, the cramped seats (12 seats per row), no music by artists known outside China, mediocre food, and a boarding area at Beijing Airport with only 10 seats—worthy of Ryanair or EasyJet. And yet, the price was sky-high. Again, D.’s vacation requests were denied outside of July and August, so we’re traveling from August 2nd to 30th. We couldn’t have picked a worse time for inflated prices, and with the situation in Iran, we got hit with a 390 € fuel surcharge. I’ve never paid so much for flights—I felt like I’d bought business class, but nope, far from it!!
We landed in Beijing around 4:15 AM. It was 28°C with thick fog. We drove and drove and drove for 20 minutes, as usual in Beijing. Then we went through a first check, a second check, a third check, and waited for our connecting flight at 6:40 AM. A small Airbus A320, but way more space than in the Boeing 777 from the first flight. We landed in Kunming, Yunnan, around 10:15 AM in the rain.
We headed to the subway. You can’t pay at the machines with Alipay here either, so we set up the transport QR code directly in Alipay to scan at the subway gates. The process is a bit long the first time if you haven’t entered your info before, but once it’s done, it’s *so* much easier! We took Line 6 to the terminus for 6 yuan each.
We’d booked a hotel nearby, on the 16th floor. It’s actually studios on different floors of a huge residential building. The view’s pretty nice from here. We settled in quickly—back to those wooden beds, or rather, mattresses as hard as wood, which we *hadn’t* missed...
Then we went out for our first bowl of noodles of the trip and wandered through the shopping streets of the old town.
It was crowded, and the weather was cool—around 19–20°C. We tried a local specialty: milk skin, thick, dried, then grilled with rose jam. Yeah... we won’t be having that again. The taste and texture of the milk skin... no thanks.
We saw a lot of wild mushroom hotpot too. It’s on our list for later. We also passed through the Jinma and Biji gates, where I played with reflections in puddles. I *love* doing that 🙂
At the end of the day, we headed to a temple advertised as open 24/7 on Amap. Of course, when we got there, it was closed. We’ll go back tomorrow. That was the first of many disappointments with Amap this trip—I hadn’t had that issue on previous visits.
We were exhausted after that sleepless flight. Night was falling, and we decided to grab a quick bite without much appetite. We shared a delicious vegetable fried rice for 12 yuan—we even left half of it. The portions are *huge*.
After a couple of small purchases, we headed back at 9 PM, wiped out, after walking 17 km between the airports and these first steps in Kunming. I expected to see quite a few Western travelers here, but we didn’t spot a single one. Instead, we met lots of curious Chinese people, many of them super friendly and helpful—almost *too* eager, like when they’d run to serve us as fast as possible. It’s a bit much, but it’s great to be back!
"So, my little wanderers, back at the decks? What’s this mystery destination you’ve got in store for us at the start of the year?"
Yes, the schoolyard bell’s ringing again! We’re hitting the road... or rather, the skies! At first glance, our destination might surprise more than a few. First off, simply because I was here exactly twenty years ago, and I don’t usually like retracing my own footsteps. Secondly, because the name of this place screams mass tourism—basically the opposite of what Flo and I look for.
Despite that, in this land of backsheesh, I’d promised myself I’d come back one day to experience it my way. And since Flo told me, during our wanderer chats, that this destination straddling Africa and the Middle East was in her top 2 travel dreams, the stars aligned for this roots-style trip to quickly make it onto our pharaonic festivities program! Unless you’re totally clueless in general knowledge, you’ve probably guessed by now—we’re off to Egypt! Of course, a few classics will be on our itinerary, but above all, we want to soak up a culture that can’t be appreciated in four-star resorts or on a Nile cruise boat. And let’s be clear, these next two weeks won’t be a walk in the park—neither for our two daughters who are joining us, nor for our bodies!
And that’s clear from the get-go: after our first flight, eight hours of trying (and failing) to sleep on Milan airport’s metal seats, our second flight, landing, passport stamps, our Uber ride, and our first Cairo kilometers, we finally drop our exhaustion at the little guesthouse we booked in Giza. Doesn’t all that energy deserve a little reward?
Oh, absolutely! And here it is: a full-on slap in the face for everyone! But just look at this view from our hotel terrace? For 20 € a night for four, even with this incredible view, I figured the room must be pretty shabby, right? Nope... Is the staff rude, then? Nope... Okay, so what’s the catch? You’re gonna tell me breakfast is included too? Well, yes! Honestly, this Egypt trip is off to a great start.
And the rest of the afternoon, spent rubbing shoulders with locals, only confirmed this vibe. After digesting our pyramid view, we dove into the hustle and bustle of our neighborhood with the goal of exchanging money, eating at street stalls, and testing the hospitality of the locals. Ten out of ten!
Eight little sun breads with baba ganoush and falafel? 80 pounds, or 1.5 €. A dozen Middle Eastern pastries? Same! 80 pounds! Two hawawshis, those little pita breads stuffed with meat and spices? 10 pounds each, or about twenty cents! Not to mention all those smiles and free "welcomes" left and right!!!
What a welcome! We end this first day with a sunset over the three sisters of Giza—where we’ll obviously be gawking tomorrow...
Preamble:
Africa was calling to me, so a year ago, with our usual travel companions, we decided to return to the continent we love so much.
Where to go?
Uganda quickly caught our attention—wildlife we’re used to seeing, plus gorillas and the shoebill we missed in Zambia.
We got in touch with Paul, who’s been mentioned several times on the forum back in September, booked our flight tickets, secured the gorilla permits, and by early October, the most important things were done.
We still had plenty of time to hold our "prep meetings" for the final itinerary.
Three days before departure, I sprained my ankle (my weak spot, as you’ll recall from our Colombia trip).
I wasn’t in great spirits, but after a year of waiting, nothing was going to stop me.
We’d see how it goes!
Off we went for our new adventures
After as many weeks as I have fingers on my right hand, we're hitting the road again, fully recovered from our pharaonic adventure. Back in France to drop off our daughters (sorry, girls!), this time it's just the two of us, ready to be welcomed by a new destination. They say it offers one of the richest cultural heritages in the world for those willing to put in the effort. It's the land of the ancient Silk Road, where we'll follow a journey steeped in history and discoveries straight out of *One Thousand and One Nights*. A former Soviet bloc region independent only since 1991, we'll be walking in the footsteps of Genghis Khan, Tamerlane, Alexander the Great, Marco Polo...
Another fun fact about this country: it's strictly forbidden to import porn on your phone. True story. The same goes for painkillers! Unless it's about sodomy—though the two don’t seem connected, that’s just how it is. Don’t ask me why! Anyway, I’m getting off track. Here’s the big question: Where do you think we’ve just landed?... To give you a hint, the locals are known for being incredibly welcoming. No sooner said than done—our first taxi driver, proud to transport French travelers, refused to let us pay for the ride. Great vibes for these two weeks ahead. So, any guesses?
Uzbekistan!!!
So, a new year has begun. It’s time to reconnect with the VF buddies and wish you all my best for 2026—a year I hope is obviously full of travel, since, as I just made up:
"If travel’s good, everything’s good" 😄.
To celebrate, I’m inviting you into my new "travel journal," the one from our latest trip in November 2025, a little two-week adventure.
This time, we headed to The Gambia, a tiny country tucked right in the middle of Senegal, before making our way to Casamance.
The Gambia is English-speaking, Senegal is French-speaking, but the locals? They couldn’t care less—because in this part of the world, they mostly speak Wolof, Fula, Jola, or Mandinka.
Hence the title: Senegambia 😉.
As usual, I’m sharing the live updates I sent to friends and family—super casual, of course.
I know this isn’t the kind of destination that draws crowds, but if you love adventure, laughter, and emotion, it might just be your thing 😊.
I hope this travel journal might interest some people, but since we were completely self-sufficient (tent, sleeping bag, pot, cooking over a wood fire…) almost every day, I don’t have many hotel addresses or great restaurant tips to share! Sorry!
We used the Maio map at 1:50,000 scale. It’s part of the Boa Vista/Sal/Maio map. Bought on Amazon, but currently unavailable as of the latest news.
The people of Maio are extremely welcoming and warm, and we were always more than well received in the villages where we pitched our tent!
We’re usually big hikers, but since Maio is a beach island (gorgeous ones, at that!), we alternated a few hours of walking in the morning with some relaxation in the afternoon: beach, reading, fishing, resting…
1 euro = 110 escudos
Day 1 (Friday) Transfers by plane: Fogo-Praia-Maio
We opted for the plane to save some time on transfers, as the boat connections between Fogo and Praia take a while, and those between Praia and Maio are almost nonexistent.
You should budget around 40-50 euros per flight per person.
There are 2 flights per week between Praia and Maio—on Tuesdays and Fridays when we were there (January 2016), but currently on Mondays and Fridays.
A bit of a delay leaving Praia, but we arrived on Maio without any problems around 4 PM.
We took an *aluguer* (shared transport, 200 escudos per person) to the center of Vila do Maio, but it’s totally doable on foot with a backpack.
Since it was already a bit late, for this first night, we dropped our bags at Big Game Maio. A standard European-style hotel run by a very nice Italian family. It’s a bit pricey for us (5500 escudos for 2 people with breakfast), but after our 2 weeks in a tent on Fogo, we were happy to find a little comfort. And the breakfast is ultra-generous, with fresh products (cured ham, fruit, cheese, bread) and top quality. The hotel restaurant offers dishes that are a clever mix of Italian and Cape Verdean cuisine. Excellent!
Little tip: We didn’t try it, but Big Game Maio offers big-game fishing trips, diving, and quad rentals.
The hotel is 2 minutes from Vila’s beautiful beach, and we went for a dip at sunset and took a stroll around town. They’re redeveloping the waterfront with pretty sidewalks and light stone walls.
Vila beach
Sunset behind Santiago
Day 2 (Saturday): rest day + fishing
After 2 weeks of hiking and since Vila is such a peaceful place where it’s nice to take your time, we decided to spend an extra day there. We took the path heading south along the coast to reach Ponta Preta beach in 20 minutes. The path isn’t very pretty because there’s quite a bit of construction going on, which prevents you from really walking along the shore. Lots of real estate agencies, especially Italian ones, have taken over the land. But Ponta Preta beach is a stunning black-sand beach where we had the whole place to ourselves. We decided to go fishing from the rocks.
At 1 PM, the sun was blazing, so we headed back to Vila and dried the fish for the following days.
At 6 PM, we went fishing again, but this time at night from the rocks at the end of Vila beach.
8:30 PM: back to shower and eat at the restaurant.
The rocks and sea at Ponta Preta
Day 3 (Sunday): from Vila do Maio to Calheta de Baixo, via Monte Batalha (path 101) Hiking time: 5h
Since there aren’t many “summits” on Maio, we decided to head to Calheta de Baixo but via Monte Batalha. We left at 8:20 AM and somehow made it to Monte Batalha by 11 AM (2h40 of hiking). But the path is really hard to find in the middle of the dry grass and acacia trees. We kind of cut through randomly, aiming for the summit. Even though it’s not very high (around 300 m), the view is amazing—you can see all of Maio at 360°!
Short 30-minute break. The descent through the “forest” of acacias is even worse for finding your way. We oriented ourselves a bit by the sun to find the road connecting Vila to Calheta. We arrived around 1:30 PM at Calheta de Baixo. A very pretty little seaside village with colorful houses. An idyllic beach, a newly renovated square, and super-friendly people. We pitched our tent facing the sea on the terrace of an abandoned house (after asking the locals for permission).
We cooked some of the dried fish we’d caught the day before, along with fresh beans we’d brought from Fogo (and were still carrying!).
At the summit of Monte Batalha
Calheta
Calheta de Baixo
Day 4 (Monday): From Calheta de Baixo to Morrinho on foot. Hiking time: 3h. Then hitching a bus to Cascabulho, and a car to Pedro Vaz.
We left around 9:30 AM heading north (path 201), following the coastline where the beaches just keep coming—each one wilder and more beautiful than the last: Praia de Soca, Calheta Braca, Ponta de Pau Seco, Calhetina. We reached the dunes of Baia de Santana. There’s no real path, so you have to follow the coast, then go around the dunes, and when you spot the 3 coconut trees, head east toward them to find the track leading to Morrinho. Again, we discovered a village with a Wild West vibe, with colorful houses lined up on either side of a paved road. Just enough time to accept a drink offered by a local before jumping onto the passing school bus that took us to Cascabulho. There, we waited for a ride. A political delegation of 10 cars drove right past us without stopping. Luckily, one of the cars had a flat tire and came by 30 minutes later—and that one, thankfully, gave us a lift! They were heading to the inauguration of a water pump in Pedro Vaz. So that’s where we stopped too. After getting permission from the school principal, we pitched our tent in front of the village school… and became the attraction for all the kids who kept us company until nightfall! A woman gave us 2 jugs of water, but with all that company, it was tough to take a peaceful shower!!
Dinner: pasta with beans.
We were woken up by rain during the night and had to rush to bring all our stuff inside the tent!
The beaches just keep coming...
The dunes
The 3 coconut trees, a landmark to find the track
Day 5 (Tuesday): Rest day and fishing at Boca da Ribeira beach
We packed up at 8 AM because the kids had school. We filled the 2 water jugs that the woman lent us and headed down to camp at Boca da Ribeira beach, which is a bit further east of Pedro Vaz. It took less than an hour to get there. This time, we really were alone in the world! We pitched the tent and spent the day fishing, reading, playing, and swimming regularly because the sun was beating down hard!!! We caught a nice fish that we grilled over the fire in the evening. With the crabs and shellfish we gathered, we made a seafood rice! Yum! What a feast!
That night, once the tent was zipped up, we felt something like rain on the tent fabric. I decided to go out and gather our things, and then—shock!!! It wasn’t raindrops we were feeling and hearing, but bugs attracted by the light!! Not just a few bugs—a huge swarm of them!!! Thousands of bugs covering the whole tent, the ropes, slipping into the seams and hems! Everywhere! The blue tent had turned green!!! After that, it was a real struggle to get back inside without letting any in! A real challenge, and there were always 3 or 4 that managed to sneak in anyway. Total war!!!
Boca da Ribeira beach
Day 6 (Wednesday): From Boca da Ribeira to Ribeira Dom João. Hiking time: 3h30
We woke up leisurely and waited for the sun to dry our things, damp from the dew. A man passed by, and we gave him the water jugs we’d borrowed, which saved us a trip back to Pedro Vaz to return them to the woman.
We left around 10 AM. We followed the sea to Alcatraz, then headed toward Pilão Cão. The path runs alongside the small hills on our right, and we passed above Lagoa Cimidor. The terrain is arid, and the path is hard to find among the many goat tracks.
After 3h30 of hiking, we reached Ribeira Dom João with 2 young people we’d met along the way.
Since it was a public holiday in Cape Verde, the kids didn’t have school, and with the principal’s permission, we pitched our tent in the kindergarten. She even kindly opened the school toilets for us. The neighbor gave us the water we needed to wash up and cook. We cooked beef steaks on charcoal. A nice change from fish!! Charcoal is a widespread artisanal product on the island. People almost never cook directly over wood but always with these big chunks of charcoal.
The hills on our right
Ribeira Dom João
Day 7 (Thursday): From Ribeira Dom João to Vila do Maio. Hiking time: 3h30
We woke up at 6:30 AM to clear out of the school by 8 AM. The neighbor made us coffee to save time. It took us 2 hours to reach Barreiro, another Wild West-style town! Since we didn’t want to walk on the road, we took the old track and reached Vila do Maio in 1h30.
Last night before taking the plane back to Praia the next day.
Barreiro
The old track
The church in Vila do Maio
That’s where this trip ends!
Maio is truly a magical island! A remote, isolated place with incredible, wild beaches and villages with a Wild West feel—colorful houses on either side of well-paved, well-maintained, and decorated streets. And the locals are so warm and welcoming.
Even for hikers like us, it was a great discovery, and we were able to alternate hiking and relaxation with great pleasure! Too bad the area around Vila do Maio is being overrun by real estate construction—ongoing, unfinished, abandoned…
And we still haven’t seen everything!
Before setting off for new horizons at the end of this year, it’s time for me to share my trip to Cape Verde this summer 2025.
I particularly love these spontaneous trips, and our stay in Cape Verde is one of those because it was only at the beginning of April that we decided on this getaway, which had been catching our eye for a while, given our love for the mountains.
As always—well, when it’s open—I turned to VF, and I want to immediately thank Marie, aka ptitortue, who helped me a lot in planning this trip through her travel journals and our exchanges!
Because Cape Verde is both small and vast! We decided not to rush from one airport to another, to enjoy the places and the people, but also to relax, since the work backlog from being stuck in May (see my previous travel journal 😅) had to be caught up on in June.
So, 4 islands will be our winners from 06/28 to 07/19:
Santiago first for logistical reasons, as round-trip flights from the capital Praia were the cheapest (650 €/person from Lyon via Lisbon with TAP, still!)
São Vicente, because it’s the gateway to the next one but ultimately more than that...
Santo Antão, pretty much the main goal of the trip since Marie (and the photos) had really sold it to me.
And finally, Sal Island, for some rest—a non-negotiable condition for my other half—and we’ll see that I should’ve listened to Marie...
That said, what a chatterbox I am—buckle up, flight attendants at the doors, off we go on new beautiful escapes! (Thanks to Sophie for the easy loan)
Last note for my eager fan club 😏: yes, there will be alcohol—how could there not be in the land of grogue!
Hi everyone, we're back from a DIY USA road trip we organized from July 31, 2026, to August 26, 2026.
The destination: The Southwest USA, including Texas, Arizona, and New Mexico. Roughly 7,000 kilometers covered.
The car: A Chevrolet Equinox for two, rented through BSP Auto and Avis. Inside, we had 2 suitcases, a travel bag, two carry-on bags, a Walmart cooler, photo gear, and water bottles (a 40-pack).
The route: Dallas DFW, Fort Worth, Houston, Austin, San Antonio, Alpine, El Paso, Tucson, Sedona, Albuquerque, Amarillo, and back to Dallas to finish with a departure from DFW.
The travelers: Two seniors well advanced in years (73 and 75) but still active (nothing too physically demanding—to stay alive and fund our trips), fully independent physically, though a bit less so mentally. Big USA fans, a country where anything is possible. More walkers than hikers, preferring 3-star hotels over roadside motels, Italian restaurants over US food, frequent stops for photos, museums over nothing, naps over forced marches. Not too whiny, just enough to stay French in the land of the "great Satan," as they say.
Not great with languages—street English (but handy), and my Spanish is non-existent except for: "Hola! Una cerveza por favor!" That’s about it. My wife understands everything but refuses to speak.
The cost of the road trip: Around 12,000 €, including AF flights, the car, gas, gifts, visits, and everything else. Well managed, since we’d budgeted 13,500 € initially.
The positive side: A delight, with those endless open roads. Museums to discover. The realization of the Hispanic presence and its important history in this part of America. Lovely locals. Tourists who were more or less friendly. A terrible Texan accent that was hard to understand. Gas stations that were like real stores, with prepared food, alcohol sold in Arizona and New Mexico, and employees who were always up for a laugh!
The negative side: The heat throughout the trip... 43°C in Dallas at the end. Impossible to walk the streets. Lots of homeless people in downtown Dallas. Hotel breakfasts that were always the same. You get used to it.
So, it was positive overall, but the concept is starting to wear us out. We might rethink the DIY road trip model for next time. If the man upstairs grants us more time.
Next up, we’ll wait for the first batch of sorted photos to go through the wringer.
It was winter, a winter with beautiful weather,
A season that only exists in the southwest of America,
I remember very well what I told you that morning
A month ago... A century ago, an eternity ago...
We’ll go... wherever you want, whenever you want...
Well, yeah, back from our adventure in our enchanting American West just a month ago, we’re already taking a bite out of one of its lesser-known competitors. "Flo, if you had to pick just one reason to justify your love for the U.S., what would it be?" The greasy, dripping burgers? No, I don’t think I’m going out on a limb by saying it’d be the wide-open spaces... And that’s exactly what our new quest is taking us to—a land on the other side of the globe where the horizon also seems endless, where silence tastes like salty wind and sand, where freedom is measured in kilometers of desert tracks, where the GPS is mostly there to confirm you’re lost in the middle of nowhere... Add to that magic formula the fact that you’ll see more zebras, giraffes, wildebeest, and elephants than people per square kilometer, and you can imagine us setting foot in Southern Africa for the first time, more precisely at the small airport in Windhoek, capital of... of...? Brush up on your geography, damn it! We’re landing in Namibia!!!
To be honest, Namibian landscapes have been flirting with me for ages. So how did I resist this island of temptation for so long? First, the budget. Let’s just say that for the same amount of effort (and kidneys), the bank lets you choose two other adventures almost anywhere else on the planet. Then there were my girls. Yeah, back then, they were too little to dose up on Malarone, the only malaria remedy at the time... Long story short, ten years later, all the planets have aligned. First, I won the Euromillions! Well, almost... Let’s just say my girls are now old enough... not to take Malarone, but to stop following me on all my adventures! Jackpot! "Flo, how about a little two-person caprice, just the two of us, tackling the Namibian tracks?"
As we landed on the runway, first wow effect: The horizon is immense. It’s flat as can be, incredibly flat... So much flat space! Did I mention it was flat?... Looking into the distance, it feels like your gaze could circle the Earth without hitting a single obstacle—until you end up staring at your own backside. "Oh, what a nice view!" Well, it’s the first time I’ve seen my butt from this angle! Touching moment... Sorry, I’m rambling—must be the exhaustion from the three-flight marathon we just powered through via Ethiopia and South Africa... And yet, no time to philosophize about my anatomy. As usual, we want to rack up our first kilometers to be front and center at dawn tomorrow. After wrapping up the tedious Namibian immigration formalities and meeting the 4x4 that’ll be our companion day and night for the next fifteen days, we’re off! We’re not exactly fresh, but we’re ready to tackle the next five hundred kilometers in night mode, cruise control set due south! Just outside Windhoek, the local wildlife—a jackal—welcomes us with a smile: "Welcome to Namibia!" That’s what it said! Honest... Okay, first endless straight road, first flaming sunset, first corrugated dirt track, first Milky Way with zero light pollution... You get it—it’s definitely the day of firsts... First night camping, too, in the big trunk of our Toyota Fortuner parked by the side of the track... The real adventure, the kind that smells under the arms, can finally begin...
Traveling with just one spare pair of underwear, considering a hot shower a miracle, never staying in the same place too long by sleeping wherever night catches us, taking whatever local, improbable, and rickety transport we can find—this is the DNA of us wanderers. Except this time, the script for our movie is going to be a whole different genre. On paper, the destination doesn’t exactly scream epic adventure: Réunion! And what’s more... we won’t be two, or four, or even ten. We’ll be a solid thirty. All from the same family. Yes, thirty. At this point, it’s not just a trip—it’s a summer camp on the move! Why inflict this on such a peaceful island? Because my brother decided to get married there with his lovely bride. A great idea, you might say... especially when it involves relocating the equivalent of a small Ardennes village 10,000 kilometers from home for three weeks! So who’s stepping up to be the guide and wave the little flag?
So, for an exceptional trip, exceptional stories! Don’t worry, the debates at the supermarket over whether to choose plain chips or roast chicken chips, the beach picnics washed down with ti’ punch, and other rougail sausages to digest by the pool will only make it into the family archives. Here, I’ll stick to the tales of our beautiful escapes, the ones where we explore the wild corners of this little volcanic rock planted in the middle of the Indian Ocean. So where exactly are we headed?
For the first week—the subject of this first installment—we’re taking it easy. We’ll start by rediscovering the coastline, from the Souffleur in Saint-Leu to the Hermitage lagoon, before a little trip to the Cirque de Cilaos and its legendary road with 400 turns, just to get our legs warmed up.
"How about a Christmas market this year, huh? A little romantic weekend getaway...
- Yes! That’d be cool! Strasbourg? Colmar?
- Feels a bit déjà vu, doesn’t it? Plus, slim chance of snow there... And I’d love something a bit more exotic with a touch of originality..."
"Okay, Google, give me the list of the five most beautiful Christmas markets in Europe.
- In fifth place, the Christmas market in Vilnius, the capital of Lithuania.
- Save your breath! Lithuania, here we come!"
We wanted cold, and cold is exactly what we got the moment we set foot in this new, unknown land. As for landscapes, forests and lakes stretch as far as the eye can see across this vast plain, its vegetation scorched by the frost of a winter that’s clearly already well underway here.
Lakes, in fact, set the scene for our first visit to Trakai Castle, whose brick-red towers and walls rise proudly against the azure sky of our first day. Lakes, because this castle was built on an island and is only accessible on foot via a series of walkways spanning half-frozen lake offshoots. I couldn’t have picked a better spot to build my castle! Translation: We’re totally sold! Proof is we spend two hours hiking around the area, alternating between forests, reeds, and cozy houses tastefully decorated for Christmas.
With my girlfriend Christelle, we’ve chosen South Africa for our first trip to Southern Africa, focusing on safaris—after a long debate with a Cape Town/Kruger combo.
But that would’ve meant cutting out St Lucia, which would’ve been harder to fit into another trip.
And St Lucia—thanks to Michel and all those travel journals—we really wanted to go there.
So our 11-night itinerary ended up like this, mostly shaped by school holidays:
- 3 nights in St Lucia
- 1 night in Hluhluwe
- 1 night at Mkhaya Game Reserve (Eswatini)
- 1 night at Hlane Royal National Park (Eswatini)
- 3 nights in Kruger (Berg en Dal / Satara / Tamboti)
- 1 night at Shindzela Tented Camp in the Timbavati private reserve
- 1 final night in Kruger at Lower Sabie
All of this in the off-season and rainy season, just a month after catastrophic floods that killed over 150 people and seriously damaged Kruger’s infrastructure.
I’ll jump straight to St Lucia and skip the loooong journey to get there (with a layover in Frankfurt, landing in Johannesburg, a domestic flight to Durban, and the rest by rental SUV—First Car Rental, perfect, no complaints).
To motivate readers—especially some familiar faces here—I’ll drop in a first photo.
This travel journal is therefore intended solely for my photos, to present a consistent style.
All the shots were taken with a simple Samsung Galaxy smartphone and with whatever was at hand.
All stays combined, I’ve spent the equivalent of three years at most in Thailand, and I’m not a big expert on the country.
However, after many trips, lots of reading on VoyageForum and other sites, and conversations with many locals as well as expats, my view of the country is becoming clearer, though it’s constantly evolving. You never stop discovering and learning.
I guess I wanted to piece together a puzzle, mainly for those who want to get an idea of the country here and for those who miss it.
I don’t know if this minimalist sharing will interest anyone, but it’ll do me good to put it together. After so many months without traveling and then these other long months with VF closed, there’s plenty of material available.
There’ll be a mix of places, periods, and subjects, but it might well be intentional.
I suspect many Thais have dogs because they make excellent guards for the home. Nothing better to deter burglars or to signal the presence of a snake. You’ll often see Thais tapping the top of their dog’s head, but don’t be fooled: it’s a sign of affection from them. Judging by the dogs’ reactions, they’re used to it.
Thailand is one of the countries on the planet where rabies is still present, so keep that in mind. It’s not just bites that can be dangerous, so don’t let just any dog lick you. Especially on a wound, of course.
Even though dogs often fear humans—this dangerous and unpredictable predator—we still need to stay cautious.
Be careful when walking into alleys because the dog will defend its master’s big property, be careful at night, and be careful when they’re in packs.
It sometimes crosses our minds that Thailand isn’t really made for walking around, and dogs are one of the reasons.
That said, it’s not uncommon to see them chasing bikes or scooters. Cars, though, are much rarer—they’re too big.
It seems Thais prefer to give their dogs freedom by not locking them behind gates. Though sometimes the gate is closed, the little side door is wide open. Oh, and sometimes there’s no gate in front of the property, or it’s been broken for years.
You’ll often see dogs sleeping on the side of the road, sometimes right on the road. When you arrive, they move aside nonchalantly—or not at all. It’s less funny when they suddenly appear from thick vegetation, which reminds visitors not to drive too fast. As a result, you’ll notice that dogs with injuries or missing legs aren’t that rare.
Since they believe in reincarnation and respect for all forms of life, they don’t chase dog packs away too much, and they don’t sterilize them enough. Seeing a small pack roaming freely in the countryside, you might think it’s best not to cross paths with them at the edge of a field.
A darker side of this is that euthanasia isn’t often practiced. Twice, we saw dogs at temples on the brink of death, enduring terrible suffering. No one did anything about it. The image (and the smell) of one of them, dying and emitting the stench of death, still comes back to me sometimes.
Some of you may have seen the YouTube vlog of a French woman living in Phuket who was given a little pig by her Thai friends. The well-fed animal quickly became a happy, enormous beast with its own garden. Yet, it didn’t take long for it to fall seriously ill and become incurable. In her video, the French woman described how difficult it was to find a vet willing to perform euthanasia.
You’ll often see bowls by the side of the road. Thais leave food and water in them for stray cats and dogs. Overall, they have a big heart for animals.
If you ever pop into a shopping mall, you might see people pushing their small dogs in strollers. It’s not a gimmick—it’s just that these strollers are provided for customers to put their pets in, otherwise you can’t bring them inside. It looks a bit odd when you expect to see a baby.
When we started looking for a summer destination a few months ago, our first criterion was to avoid extreme heat and heatwaves. We had already been to Norway two years ago and are considering going back in the future for other occasions. So, we had some fun asking ChatGPT which destinations enjoyed a mild climate during the summer without going too far. Among the list provided by the AI were the Canary Islands... The idea of a place we wouldn’t have thought of first, both not too far away and exotic enough, appealed to us: “Hmm, why not?”
This destination had never really attracted me, though Magali was a bit more interested. Five years earlier, COVID had caused a short break in my professional activity, and I had planned a trip because the flight price was attractive, and I was looking for a destination different from what usually appeals to me, more than out of deep interest. From a distance and with a social judgment I acknowledge (it’s not great, but it’s not completely wrong), I had the image of a destination for party-goers enjoying the sun without the slightest interest in local culture, with concrete coastlines and denatured landscapes—everything I detest the most. Still, I had done some quick research on the different islands and spotted Lanzarote for its beautiful volcanic landscapes, hiking trails, beaches, and the impression of a good balance between activity and fewer crowds than Tenerife or Gran Canaria. Then I dropped the idea of going, without ever reconsidering traveling to the Canaries...
Until now! Because we started researching the different islands of the archipelago to see which ones might appeal to us the most. It was La Gomera, the third smallest island of the archipelago, more praised for its hiking trails and preserved nature than for its beaches, away from mass tourism (fifty times fewer tourists than Tenerife) but still a bit more developed than its wild neighbor El Hierro, that caught our attention. Contrary to what might be suggested later, I’m not at all addicted to AI, but I use it from time to time to synthesize quick research or simply for experimentation. Since ChatGPT had started anticipating my tastes lately as if it had become my buddy (often successfully, sometimes off the mark), I asked which Canary Island would suit me best for a trip with my family. The tool answered first with... La Gomera. So, I tested it and teased it a bit to see if this suggestion was well-founded, as the method sometimes makes it contradict itself. But no luck: “You’d appreciate the wild nature of El Hierro, but with family, you’ll find little activity for the kids. You won’t like the touristy vibe of the big islands like Tenerife, Gran Canaria, Lanzarote, and Fuerteventura. You could consider La Palma, but it’s really La Gomera that will suit you best, based on your interests and the criteria given.” So, we dug deeper into our research and were convinced without a shadow of a doubt that this island was the one waiting for us.
Without knowing it, we had Canarians in our circle who revealed their origins when they heard about our travel plans. One from Tenerife insisted we’d be better off choosing Tenerife (obviously...) because it also has preserved spots and that La Gomera, “you can explore it in two or three days, you’ll get bored quickly...” The other, a colleague from Gran Canaria who had never visited La Gomera, still recommended it without hesitation because it turned out her parents had just gone there on vacation: they loved it and had encountered few tourists. She also tended to think this destination was usually the subject of short stays, but according to what her parents told her, taking your time there was also a great idea. However, in our research, the idea that La Gomera is an island you can explore in three or four days max kept coming up. So, we considered combining its visit with La Palma or El Hierro, the other two that caught our eye. But hopping between islands by ferry represents a significant budget for non-Canarians, even more so for a family of four. Then, scrutinizing Google Maps, it seemed obvious that two weeks were too short to discover two islands as they deserve, and that there seemed to be plenty to see in La Gomera, given its very unique culture. After all, we read that some people spend several months a year there, others never even leave... Finally, these landscapes and this atmosphere, which seemed to us a mix of Europe, North Africa, and Latin America, tempted us. So, it would be two weeks in La Gomera, deal!
La Gomera is therefore the second... well, the third smallest island of the Canaries since La Graciosa was recently recognized as a fully inhabited island. It has the shape of a rough circle about 20 to 25 kilometers in diameter and has just over 20,000 inhabitants, half of them in its capital, San Sebastián de la Gomera, the only real town. Like its Canarian sisters, La Gomera is a volcanic formation that rose about 10 million years ago. The island is very mountainous and rugged, covered with red and black rocky landscapes. Geological activity has shaped, between the sprawling massifs that end in steep cliffs in the ocean, six coastal valleys with tropical vegetation that have favored human settlement. They divide the island like slices of a cake; from the north clockwise: the agricultural Vallehermoso, the rustic Agulo, the green, humid, and fertile Hermigua, the sunny capital San Sebastián de la Gomera, the southern and isolated Alajeró-Santiago, and the seaside Valle Gran Rey. They constitute the six municipalities (more like cantons to our French understanding) of the territory.
The large solidified magma massifs that shape the heart of the island have created a large depression more protected from the sun at its center, allowing the growth of a vast laurel forest, today grouped within the Garajonay National Park, La Gomera’s green lung, which has earned it the status of a World Biosphere Reserve. Its completely European appearance contrasts sharply with the rocky and tropical landscapes of the rest of the island. Thus, the climate varies greatly from one point to another on the island: in summer, you can quickly go from a dry and sunny valley at 35°C to a humid forest area at altitude at 18°C.
La Gomera was populated late. As with the rest of the Canaries, human presence is thought to have begun about 2,000 years ago. Groups of animist Berbers, probably fleeing persecution, gradually populated the archipelago, especially the western islands and La Gomera, becoming its small aboriginal population: the Guanches (or later Gomeros). The animist and pastoral civilization of the Guanches thrived until the Spanish takeover in the 15th century, which, after a short period of harmony and mixing with the indigenous people, suddenly ended in bloodshed... La Gomera later became the “Columbus Island” after Christopher Columbus’s stopover, increasing the blending of populations. In the 20th century, many Gomeros emigrated to Cuba and other Latin American countries in search of a better life, bringing back a mix of cultures and traits quite palpable in today’s Gomeran culture. It is, however, in La Gomera that the vestiges of Guanche culture seem to have left the most traces, in the language, gastronomy, social practices... Moreover, most Gomeros, especially in remote villages, have a particular identifiable type and proudly claim their ancestral roots, even making La Gomera a bit exotic in the eyes of other Canarians.
Perhaps that’s why it has never really wanted to develop its tourist infrastructure too much. If we set aside the tourists who visit for the day by bus or boat from Tenerife on a marked itinerary (and whom we ultimately rarely encounter), La Gomera has remained a hidden gem, a destination focused on nature discovery that attracts hikers, nature-loving divers, and scientists for its fauna and flora, and to a lesser extent, beachgoers who don’t seek overly developed coastlines. Tourist activity is therefore limited. Roughly speaking, you’ll find a majority of Spaniards, including a substantial number of residents from other Canary Islands, many Germans who have a particular fondness for La Gomera and spend long stays there or own second homes, to the point that the German cultural footprint is clearly noticeable in some places (it’s said to be Angela Merkel’s favorite holiday spot), and still quite a few French. The presence of other nationalities seemed negligible to us. Most travelers come mainly for hiking, but it’s also a prime spot for whale watching. Additionally, the seaside resorts of La Gomera—San Sebastián, Santiago, and especially Valle Gran Rey—are well-known destinations for hippies, especially German ones, ranging from chic boho hippies to old-school hippies who’ve been there for decades, quite similar to those you’d meet in India in Goa, Rishikesh, or Paharganj. Thus, practices like naturism, vegetarianism, and local organic production are quite well established in some areas.
Some practical info:
- The round-trip flight from Paris to Tenerife cost us 365 € per person (outbound with Transavia, return with EasyJet), including checked luggage and three seats reserved side by side.
- We chose two bases to explore the island: one week in Valle Gran Rey, reputed to be the most pleasant of the three seaside resorts, and one week in Hermigua, more mountainous and close to the natural park. We booked two houses with balconies and views: the first at 120 € per night, the second at 99 €.
- The round-trip ferry between Tenerife and La Gomera cost us 270 € with the company Baleària Canarias, including discounts for children aged 4 and 12, but I don’t have the exact details. It was a bit cheaper than with the other company, Fred Olsen.
- Finally, we rented a car through the agency Cicar for 360 € for 16 days, which comes to 22.50 € per day.
- Apart from that, we didn’t plan anything and decided the day before or even the morning of what we wanted to do. We didn’t invest in any paper guide on the Canaries, as information on La Gomera was scarce, but we used the very comprehensive site La Gomera Travel, a travel guide published by the Canary Islands Tourism Council, a real goldmine of almost exhaustive information on the island.
Alright, off we go for 16 days of adventure discovering La Gomera!
If I close my eyes and think of the Sultanate of Oman, I first smell a light scent of incense, feel the warmth of a sunbeam on my skin, before sand slips through my fingers. I taste the sweetness of a date, a real candy, then the flavor of coffee with a hint of cardamom and rosewater... I hear the desert wind whistling in my ears, the distant call of a muezzin, then the murmur of water. I open my eyes to see smiles, welcoming gestures, a turquoise sea, rocks ranging from ochre to purple, deep wadis where torrents burst forth, orange dunes, white sandy beaches where tiny crabs scurry at full speed. I see incredible oases emerging between arid mountains. I see abandoned villages that I’d dream were full of life, imposing fortresses overlooking valleys, and lively souks where offers are delicate and negotiation is a mutual courtesy.
All that, and so much more.
This is what I tried to capture in my illustrated travel journal, which I’ll fill in here and there with photos.
I drew this journal “cold,” after my return (actually, I made it this summer, while our trip was last winter). It’s a pretty special format—I bought it in Japan without really knowing what I’d do with it. Well, it found its purpose! Below is a photo of this accordion-style journal: here, it’s only partially open, because when fully unfolded, it’s 5 meters long!
For drawing enthusiasts: The accordion format is both a constraint (each sheet is 9 cm x 27 cm) and a freedom (you can create a fresco). The paper is also a bit special: it doesn’t allow for fine lines, but it takes ink well (liner pen). However, everything has to be done almost in one go (with a very light pencil sketch) because it erases poorly. It absorbs too much water for coloring with markers or watercolors (unless you avoid soaking it), but it works well with oil pastels and their use with a brush and solvent. Since it’s yellowish, it allowed me to create contrasts even with white pastel.
On the right, the "welcome marker"—those dates offered everywhere as a sign of hospitality. On the left, a tribute to those stunning doors worn by time, admired all over the old quarters, including the abandoned ones.
Oman is one of the world’s largest producers of frankincense resin. Incense burners are everywhere, from the simplest clay ones to the most precious handcrafted silver ones...
Hospitality will often lead you to accept a small coffee, an "Omani coffee," very light, subtly flavored with cardamom, maybe a touch of saffron, and occasionally rosewater.
Here, I’ve depicted a man in the common everyday attire of Omanis: the dishdasha, mostly white (during the week and daytime; colors are more common in the evening or on Fridays and Saturdays). While you’ll see some men dressed in Western clothes, they’re very few. The white dishdasha is truly the shared attire of all men. The dishdasha, which has no hood, is distinguished by a small pom-pom attached to the collar, the furakha, which is soaked in perfume. And believe me, Omanis go overboard with it! "It smells like the pom-pom" is an expression that’s now part of our shared language, my husband and I.
Another must of men’s attire is the kuma, a small round head covering, usually white with brightly colored patterns. The keffiyeh is also worn (but without the cord called an agal in Arab countries), and it’s mostly worn by those with roots in the desert, from what I understood.
And what about the women, you might ask? Some are veiled, some in full black (but not a burka—more like a chador + abaya), due to the influence of Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates, whereas the traditional outfit used to be a layering of very colorful dresses. Most of the women we saw wore neutral clothing, a plain veil over their hair, but with their faces uncovered. We also saw many saris and colorful veils—don’t forget that 40% of the population consists of Indian, Nepalese, and Bangladeshi immigrants, who work a lot in tourism, hospitality, restaurants, services, and construction.
Just to clarify, as a tourist, there’s no pressure to wear a veil, and never any disapproving looks. Of course, you’ll save the mini shorts, plunging necklines, bare shoulders, and midriffs for the hotel terrace—but I’d say that’s the same for men and women, and with the sun being strong, it’s better for your skin too.
Here’s the introduction! In the next post, I’ll tell you about my itinerary, and we can dive in!
My buddy Christian and I (Patrick) are off for 28 days in Argentina in March.
We’ve already shared several trips as a duo (Bolivia Peru, Namibia, Laos, Costa Rica).
Since we’re starting from the idea that at our age (65) we won’t be coming back here—there are just too many other corners of the world to discover—we did the "grand tour" of Argentina, with 6 domestic flights to make the most of our 28 days.
Here are our stops:
1) Departure from Brussels to Buenos Aires via Madrid
2) Arrival and first contact with Buenos Aires
3) Early morning flight to Ushuaia. Boat trip on the Beagle Channel
4) Ushuaia: hikes in Tierra del Fuego National Park
5) Ushuaia: last hike and flight to El Calafate
6) El Calafate to El Chaltén by bus. First hike
7) El Chaltén: hike
8) El Chaltén: hike
9) El Chaltén: hike and bus back to El Calafate
10) El Calafate: Perito Moreno Glacier
11) Flight to Bariloche. Car rental and surrounding areas
12) Seven Lakes Region
13) Nahuel Huapi National Park region
14) Flight to Salta. Car rental
15) To Tilcara
16) To Humahuaca
17) To Purmamarca
18) To Jujuy via the salt flats
19) To Cafayate
20) Around Cafayate
21) To Cachi
22) Back to Salta
23) Flight to Iguazu
24) Waterfalls on the Argentine side
25) Waterfalls on the Brazilian side and flight to Buenos Aires
26) Buenos Aires
27) Return flight
28) Morning arrival
Happy reading!..
We landed in Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, and headed straight to Kasane in Botswana to pick up our car.
Our vehicle is a 4x4 because in Zambia, it's practically impossible to use anything else, especially in the national parks. I’ve already had the pleasure of visiting South Luangwa National Park—it’s one of the reasons for this trip, the main one being to travel in Africa with one of my sons.
First stop: Livingstone on the banks of the Zambezi River. Along the way, we discovered a lovely restaurant at Socrates with a super-friendly owner (we’ll actually stop there again on our way back). We spent our first night in the rooftop tent after a stunning sunset, accompanied by the grunting of hippos in the river.
The next day, we set off early, heading to Kafue NP. In fact, we’ll always leave early—waking up between 5:00 and 5:30 AM and hitting the road an hour later. Kafue is a lesser-known park, mostly forested, and the animals are skittish because they’re not used to human presence. We crossed the park from south to north and came across various antelopes. Near Lake Itezhi-Tezhi, there are plains where wildlife is easier to spot.
After Kafue, we headed to South Luangwa. This journey requires stops in Mumbwa and Petauke. Two pleasant stops where we found lodges (a nice change from the rooftop tent) at affordable prices and met welcoming people.
For me, South Luangwa is Zambia’s most beautiful park—the river is stunning, the landscapes are gorgeous, and there’s a wide variety of wildlife, including, of course, big cats. A tip for those, like us, who aren’t with a guide: if you’re staying near the park for several days, don’t hesitate to do a "game drive" to scout out where the animals are so you can return the next day with your own vehicle. Of course, in the dry season, you’ll want to focus on waterholes to see the animals—and you’ll need a bit of luck too. The elephant population is growing, and we were lucky enough to see around sixty elephants crossing the Luangwa at dawn, spread across several groups. South Luangwa is the westernmost point of our trip, and we’re now heading east to Lower Zambezi.
Lower Zambezi is Zambia’s side of Mana Pools on the Zimbabwe side. We took a boat ride on the Zambezi to see elephants, hippos, crocodiles, and a multitude of birds living along the water and on the river’s islands. The sunset there is also magnificent.
To explore the park, we followed the waterways parallel to the Zambezi, mostly on the western side (see our route). Lower Zambezi is the last park we visit, and the final leg of our trip will be Victoria Falls.
Victoria Falls—or Mosi-Oa-Tunya ("The Smoke That Thunders")—are truly impressive, even during the dry season. We saw the falls from both countries: in Zambia for the overall view and the bridge that serves as the border, and in Zimbabwe to get as close as possible to the most spectacular parts of the falls.
This marks the end of our trip, which, despite a blown tire on the road, went off without any major issues. Zambia is a beautiful country that immerses you in wild, still-preserved nature.
The latest travel journal about Turkmenistan dates back to 2019. Here’s a quick update on this vast desert country, which is now a bit easier to visit than before.
This is my first travel journal. If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask. The country is slowly opening up, but it’s still possible to visit sites where you’ll be completely alone. In five days, I saw two Hongkongers, a few Germans, and a Chilean at the crater, ten Chinese people in a capital bazaar, and that’s it!
It’s possible to visit Turkmenistan from Uzbekistan. The easiest and most economical way is to take a taxi to the border from Bukhara. The trip takes a little over an hour.
Crossing the border takes quite a while because many Turkmen bring back items bought in Uzbekistan to resell in Turkmenistan. For example, diapers, baby products, or beauty products.
It took me over 2.5 hours to cross the border. To visit Turkmenistan, it’s mandatory to have a guide and go through a travel agency. British agencies often offer three-, five-, or seven-day trips for over 1,500 or 2,000 €.
But if your budget is more limited, you can contact a few Turkmen agencies directly by email, and they’ll make you an offer between 700 and 1,300 € for three to seven days. I took a five-day trip from Turkmenabat in the northeast of the country to Dashoguz in the north. The goal was to visit the main UNESCO-listed sites, including Merv, and archaeological sites like Nisa or Gonur Tepe.
Your guide will also be your driver. They’ll pick you up at the border. The formalities are very long because customs officers have to stamp multiple documents, and obtaining the visa you previously requested from your travel agency requires several checks. But the process goes relatively smoothly, even if each step takes a while.
Once on the other side, the first surprise is the brand-new highway all the way to Turkmenabat. A very long line of trucks stretches for several kilometers on the Turkmen side to cross the border into Uzbekistan. According to my guide, Turkmen trucks transport gas and cotton (though not this season, since the harvest is in September), but they mainly fill up their tanks because fuel is much cheaper in Turkmenistan. A full tank for a car costs about 3 €, which is unbeatable.
From the Farap border post, the goal is to reach the city of Mary, which is home to the UNESCO-listed site of Merv in its suburbs, about thirty kilometers away. This city is known as a foundation by Alexander the Great in the 4th century BC under the name Alexandria of Margiana. Several fortresses are visible.
After more than three hours on the road, we have lunch at a Turkish restaurant called Aladdin. Several quotes from the president are visible along the highway, but the road is in good condition, and we move along easily. This will be by far the best road in the country—things will get much worse later.
Roundabouts are particularly interesting because they feature emblems of Turkmen culture, like the dog, a carpet, the Ahal Teke horse, or Muslim symbols, even though the presence of Islamic artifacts is quite limited.
This time, I landed in Monastir on a direct flight from Nice, again with Tunisair. We left about ten minutes late, and the flight lasted around 1 hour 30 minutes. A meal was served on board (cucumber salad with Edam-like cheese, carrots, and two small portions of dishes I couldn’t identify—semolina with peppers, olives, and parsley, two small rolls, a square of processed cheese, and a chocolate cake). It’s worth noting because it’s not common on flights this short.
In February, France and Tunisia were in the same time zone, but now Tunisia is one hour behind. This time difference and the flight duration work perfectly for a short 15-day trip since it takes me a few days to adjust to jet lag.
Luckily, I’d asked my hotel about the taxi fare from the airport because the drivers (there were several around me) didn’t hesitate to quote outrageous prices. The actual fare is 20 dinars, but one asked for 120 dinars. I refused, and another offered 60 dinars. I replied, "That’s too expensive—I’ll take the metro!" (Having tried the Tunis metro, I had no desire to repeat the experience in Monastir with a suitcase!). I started walking toward the metro, and one of the drivers caught up with me, saying, "20 dinars is fine!" I’ll skip the details, but the negotiation took a little while.
When I arrived at the hotel, I told the receptionist someone had asked for 120 dinars. He put his hands to his head and said, "They’re awful!" He remembered our phone call two days earlier when I’d booked (he’s the one who told me I could take the metro).
The Mezri Hotel isn’t expensive. I got a sea-view room for 75 dinars (22 €). (I’d booked a balcony room for 90 dinars but wouldn’t have had time to enjoy it.) It’s well-located but noisy because there’s no double glazing.
The receptionist is a very kind older gentleman. He called a friend whose wife is from Tozeur to find out if I should take a bus or a *louage* tomorrow and what time.
I arrived at the hotel around 7:00 PM and had time to stroll along the corniche to the ribat. Despite some run-down buildings, the seaside seemed livelier and cheerier than Sousse’s.
Monastir is the hometown of former president Bourguiba. I passed his mausoleum by taxi. There are Tunisian flags along the avenue by the sea because every year on April 6—the anniversary of Habib Bourguiba’s death—the president of the Republic visits the Bourguiba Mausoleum in Monastir to pay respects.
The taxi driver mentioned other Tunisian presidents. He complained about rising prices and insecurity, blaming President Kaïs Saïed (I’d already heard that security was better under Ben Ali).
At the end of my stay, I’ll take time to explore Monastir, but tomorrow morning, I’m off to Tozeur—a long bus ride awaits me.
Here we go!!!
I left home at 4 AM on October 31st and headed to Barcelona. Driving through Barcelona on the ring road stresses me out a bit, but at 6 AM the traffic is smooth, and I arrive at the airport without any issues. I call the valet, who quickly comes to pick up my car. He takes photos of it from all angles before letting me go.
Baggage check-in hasn’t started yet, and there are already several of us waiting.
Once free, everything happens very quickly. The flight to Abu Dhabi is on time and goes smoothly. I’ve never had any problems with this airline, which I’ve been using for several years.
The flight to Bangkok arrives at 7 AM as scheduled. This is my first time in Thailand and Bangkok. I’m used to traveling in India, and I notice that everything here is well organized—the customs process is quick, and the luggage is already on the carousel.
I booked a taxi on Booking. All I have to do is find the right exit and door based on the agency’s instructions. A large sign with the names of people who booked is posted on a wall. A hostess greets me and calls the taxi, which arrives 5 minutes later. I booked one night at the Lost Inn BKK hotel in the Phra Nakhon district, and we arrive at 9 AM. The welcome isn’t warm, and I have to wait until noon, sitting on a chair, before I can check into my room. I’m exhausted, and sleeping sitting up isn’t ideal. Noon finally arrives—the room is small but clean, which is fine for one night. I quickly take a shower to wake up because I plan to spend the afternoon visiting the Grand Palace. First, I need to exchange some money, and the banks are all close together on the same street, which is very convenient. When I enter one, a hostess gives me a ticket and invites me to sit down. There are about twenty counters, and I wait quietly until my number is called. The exchange is quick, so I can head out to find the Royal Palace. It’s actually very easy, and the walk is pleasant.
Entry to the Royal Palace (500 baht).
It’s magnificent and grand, and there are quite a few of us visiting. The sky is gray, it’s very humid, and a shower interrupts the visit. It’s a vast complex of temples and palaces. The buildings are colorful and sparkling, with a great sense of serenity (without the tourists, of course). I quietly enjoy the place and try to take photos without tourists, which isn’t easy.
Very close to the Grand Palace is Wat Pho, one of the oldest Buddhist temples in the capital.
It’s very famous for its 46-meter-long reclining Buddha statue.
Walking around the temple, you can see different representations of Buddha, all covered in gold leaf.
Inside the temple, on one side, monks recite their prayers, while the other side is reserved for tourists who come to meditate in silence.
Before returning to the hotel, I have dinner at an Indian restaurant. I go to bed early because tomorrow’s wake-up call will be very early again.
Saturday, November 2nd
Wake-up at 4 AM, departure from the hotel at 4:30 AM. The taxi I booked via Booking is waiting for me and takes me to the airport. The trip is fairly quick—he takes small roads, and at this hour, there’s no traffic.
The flight to Phnom Penh is on time. Before boarding, I realize I left my fleece jacket on the carousel, but it’s too late to go back for it.
The flight goes well, and customs is quick.
At the exit, I take a tuk-tuk to Julieka’s GH near the museum. The welcome is friendly. I won’t be able to check into my room until noon, so I take the opportunity to exchange some euros on the market street. The street is lined with restaurants, and I’ll have my first meal there.
The museum is right across the street, so I don’t waste any time visiting it.
The representations of Hindu deities are very different from those in India, and I don’t recognize them. Many beautiful Buddhas are on display.
The museum is very pleasant, and there aren’t too many people, which is a plus.
At the exit, I return to the GH, settle into my room—which is decent and clean.
The Royal Palace is 1 km away. I walk along a garden, and at the end of the street is the Tonlé Sap, but I turn right. I arrive at a large esplanade and see the buildings with tiered roofs and glazed tiles. The entrance to the palace is a little further away.
At the entrance, I notice there isn’t the same crowd as at the one in BKK.
Khmer architecture is magnificent. The complex consists of gardens, palaces, pagodas with golden roofs, and slender spires.
The Silver Pagoda houses the small Emerald Buddha, which is actually made of jade. The silver flooring is covered with carpets. Photos are not allowed.
The walls surrounding the pagoda are covered with frescoes depicting scenes from the Ramayana.
My partner and I traveled from Sunday, July 5, 2026, to Wednesday, July 22, 2026.
We spent a long time debating whether to rent a car or use public transportation. In the end, after reading so many posts about travelers getting scammed by police or rental companies—even those recommended by blogs and reviews—we decided to stick with public transport. It worked out really well. Sure, we had a little less freedom to go where we wanted, but it was way less stressful for us.
Sunday, July 5:
Arrived at Cancun Airport. Withdrew cash from the ATM in the terminal just before exiting. The ADO bus counter (they pronounce it "A-Jee-O") is right behind you when you're facing the ATM. Bus to downtown Cancun cost 145 pesos per person.
Stayed at "Rose 5," booked on Booking. The studio was super clean and perfect for one night. The owner’s instructions for accessing the place were very precise, with photos included. Check-in was self-service with a code. The ADO bus terminal isn’t far, and there are shops and restaurants nearby. We really appreciated that the AC was already on when we arrived. By the way, I’d recommend always booking places with AC—it’s *really* hot in Mexico.
Monday, July 6:
Bought a SIM card with data from a TELCEL store. My partner, who’s on Free Mobile, was able to use her regular plan. Just so you know, I found the network pretty unstable. As soon as we left the cities, neither of us—me with TELCEL or her with Free—had any signal.
Another thing to watch out for: roaming charges. I had to turn my SIM back on for less than 30 seconds to get a bank SMS code, and my phone apparently connected to the internet—resulting in an 8-euro roaming fee.
Left on an ADO bus to Chiquila for 278 pesos per person. During our trip, ADO buses were always on time, comfortable, and clean. The AC is *cranked* though, so bring something to cover up with—it gets cold. Some routes were fully booked even in the low season, so try to reserve 1 or 2 days in advance either via the app (when it works) or at the counter.
When we arrived at the ADO terminal in Chiquila, the ferry company counters were right next to it. Ferries leave every 30 minutes, alternating between companies, so no need to book ahead. Just take whichever one is leaving next (330 pesos per person).
When we got to Holbox (pronounced "Hol-bosh"), we’d booked a place via Booking called "Casa de Nana." It was a huge studio with a fridge, cooking plate, and utensils. The best part? The *location*. It was 100 meters from the beach and 200 meters from a Chedraui supermarket. They provided bath towels and beach towels, and the AC worked perfectly. There’s a key box so you can leave your keys inside when you go out. The only downside was that no one was there to let us in when we arrived, so we had to wait a while. The Wi-Fi was good, which was lucky because during our 4-day stay in Holbox, the phone network *never* worked. According to locals, that’s pretty common in Holbox, along with water outages.
Luckily, I’d had the good idea to download an offline map, which helped us find our way back to the place more easily. You can walk there from the dock.
The restaurant next to our place (La Barracuda) was great if you like seafood—I’d recommend their octopus dishes.
Tuesday, July 7:
We did a kayak tour in Holbox’s mangroves at 6 AM. We were looking for a sunrise kayak tour with a French-speaking guide. That’s exactly what we got with "Kayaking Holbox," where Diego, the owner, speaks English and French. He was joined by Gustavo, another guide.
We’d booked for a group tour, but we were the only ones. Diego still went ahead with it instead of canceling due to lack of participants, so we got a private tour at the group rate—really professional of him. They showed us this amazing ecosystem for over 3 hours. We saw all kinds of birds: pink flamingos, pelicans, egrets, frigatebirds... rays, a horseshoe crab, and a little crocodile that was *so* well hidden. Diego and Gustavo have a real eye for spotting animals—I could’ve passed by the crocodile 100 times and never seen it, it blended in so well. Their explanations about the flora and fauna were super interesting. We also got a little break where we tasted mangoes and bananas that taste *nothing* like the ones in France. A real treat—those little Mexican yellow mangoes! I’d definitely recommend Diego and his agency for a French-language kayak tour (1000 pesos per person).
In the evening, we walked to Punta Coco to see the bioluminescence. No need for a guided tour—if you really don’t want to walk, you can take a taxi. At Punta Coco, you have to pass the beach bar/restaurant and then go left into a kind of inlet that forms a lagoon. You have to wiggle your feet or move your hands in the water to create movement, which makes the light appear. Just don’t expect the kind of photos you’ve seen online—they’re all edited! It’s fun to see, but you won’t be dazzled by the light...
Wednesday, July 8:
Whale shark tour with "My Holbox Tours." Why recommend this agency over others for swimming with whale sharks? Simply because Valérie surrounds herself with top professionals to make your experience unforgettable. We were with Captain Fernando, who does everything to position the boat perfectly and make your swim easier. In the water, we were with Humberto, who also goes above and beyond to make sure you have an incredible time. He doesn’t just "supervise" like some guides from other companies who leave you on your own. No, Humberto reads the whale shark’s trajectory and guides you—all you have to do is follow him. He really puts in the effort, even holding your hand to guide you through this quick but intense encounter. Humberto also films the moment and will offer to show you the videos and sell them to you. His footage is really high quality.
Fernando and Humberto also prepared food for us. Special mention for their guacamole! Valérie is there to make sure everything goes smoothly on the boat and to answer your questions in French, English, or Spanish about these animals. If you choose My Holbox Tours, you can be sure you’ll get a top-notch experience.
About the tour itself: before you go, you should know that the sharks can be *really* far away. The day we went, it took 3.5 hours by boat to reach them. The boats are small, and let me tell you—on the way there, when we weren’t going with the waves, it was *rough*. Out of 9 passengers, 4 got seasick. But once you’re face-to-face with the shark, you forget all about that. Even if swimming with a whale shark isn’t exactly a walk in the park—they swim pretty fast, so you need some endurance to keep up. You’ll usually get 2 turns. Our first swim lasted a little over 4 minutes, and the second about 2 minutes because the shark was moving fast and we were still tired from the first swim. It might seem short, but when you’re swimming, it feels *long*. Either way, it’s an experience you *have* to do—but choose your company wisely. On the way back, there’s a stop at Cabo Catoche. Honestly, the snorkeling is pretty disappointing if you’ve done it elsewhere in the world. But the lunch stop at Cabo Catoche is really nice for relaxing (white sand and hammocks).
Thursday, July 9:
Short morning walk to Punta Mosquito at 6 AM. Really nice.
Ferry to Chiquila (330 pesos per person) + ADO bus to Valladolid (300 pesos per person).
In Valladolid, we booked "Casa Lucia" via Booking. The hotel is gorgeous, with a colonial style, and very close to the ADO bus terminal and downtown. It’s super quiet and clean. There’s a shared kitchen you can use with a fridge, microwave, and water dispenser, plus a big table by the pool and a nice indoor terrace. Breakfast was simple but included. The only small downsides were the tiny room and bathroom, no mirror in the room, and a noisy fan.
Friday, July 10:
Not far from the ADO bus terminal is the colectivo station for Chichen Itza. They offer a round-trip to Chichen Itza with an option to stop at Ik Kil cenote on the way back and then drop you off in Valladolid for 370 pesos per person (Ik Kil entrance included).
For the Chichen Itza visit, we’d booked a tour with a guide often mentioned in groups—his name is Juan Pat. He’s a Maya who lives near the site and speaks excellent French. He reserves spots in advance for you and queues up to be the first on-site. It cost 500 pesos per person + entrance fees. His tour lasts 2 hours and focuses mainly on the main pyramid and the ball court. He’s passionate and fascinating, even if some of his claims, as a Maya, might be a little biased. I think it’s *really* important to have a guide—otherwise, you’ll miss so much. You can contact Juan Pat on WhatsApp at +52 985 121 2381.
Afterward, we went to Ik Kil cenote (showers and life jackets mandatory, lockers available). It’s *very* crowded, but still really beautiful with its lush vegetation.
Saturday, July 11:
Since we didn’t have a car but still wanted to visit other cenotes that seemed hard to reach by public transport, we decided to book a taxi for the day. We agreed on 1200 pesos to take us to 3 different cenotes and wait for us at each one. (To find taxis, just look where they park near the ADO bus station.)
He picked us up at Zaci cenote, which we’d walked to. We got there at opening time and were the first ones there—had the place to ourselves for a while! 150 pesos per person. A pretty cenote in the city center with lush vegetation. It’s a bit like Ik Kil but without the deep cylindrical effect.
Cenote Xcanahaltun: the most beautiful cenote we visited. Entry 250 pesos per person. It’s a closed cenote with a hole that lets light in—a cave-like setting. You can kayak inside. There are little fish at the edge that nibble dead skin off your feet. Since it’s closed, the water is *freezing*!
Cenote Palomitas: entry 250 pesos per person. Another stunning closed cenote, even more enclosed than Xcanahaltun. The hole in the ceiling is smaller, so it was pretty dark when we arrived—kind of an eerie vibe. But when the staff turned on the lights, it looked like a "Gothic cathedral" full of bright stalactites.
Cenote Sac Aua: entry 290 pesos per person. The ticket includes a guided cave tour (tip-based). This cenote is really unique with its central island and way less crowded than Suytun. Just so you know, the water is *really* cold in cenotes. In these three, in July, we had the place to ourselves for a while and never saw more than 2 families at once—so peaceful!
Sunday, July 12:
ADO bus to Bacalar (536 pesos per person).
In Bacalar, we stayed via Airbnb with a host named Luli, who offers several rooms with shared bathroom and kitchen.
The room is nicely decorated in a pleasant setting. It’s ideally located near the lagoon and downtown. The shared kitchen is handy. The mosquito net over the bed is useful because there are *a lot* of mosquitoes in Bacalar. Luli provides a water jug, which is really nice. The only big downside is the lack of water pressure in the shower—we had to rinse off by filling a bucket. Also, there’s no real door separating the room from the bathroom. We never met Luli in person, but she was very responsive via messages. The terrace in the middle of the vegetation is lovely.
From the ADO terminal to the place, we took a taxi for 40 pesos. Since this driver was honest about the price (we’d checked beforehand), we decided to use him every time we needed a taxi in Bacalar. Here’s his WhatsApp: +52 983 184 3585.
Monday, July 13:
We did a boat tour on the lagoon with "Bacalar Francophone Activities." Since we were just the two of us, it cost 3500 pesos. If we’d managed to be 4 people, it would’ve been 1000 pesos per person.
We had a private 4-hour tour on the lagoon with Steeve and his very comfortable boat. He’s from Quebec, so his French is perfect. During those 4 hours, Steeve showed us the lagoon’s iconic spots *and* places other boats don’t go. He told us about the lagoon’s history and gave great tips on where to go and where to eat. As a little bonus, he gave us a video taken with his drone during our swimming break.
Tuesday, July 14:
We went to Los Rapidos by taxi (400 pesos round trip) and entry was 225 pesos per person. It’s *very* touristy but really beautiful. You can eat there (expensive), relax, and go down the "rapids" as many times as you want. It’s worth it if you spend a few hours there. You can’t bring in food or drinks—you leave them at the entrance and pick them up on the way out.
Wednesday, July 15:
On Wednesdays, navigation is banned on Bacalar Lagoon, so we’d planned another excursion.
Visit to Calakmul from Bacalar with ABCtours (WhatsApp +52 983 319 8359).
This agency organized a trip from Bacalar to Calakmul with a French-speaking guide. Communication beforehand via WhatsApp was smooth. Mr. Checo, the driver, and Fernando, the guide (who spoke great French), picked us up on the day. Mr. Checo drove very carefully on the long road and always made sure we were comfortable. Fernando is passionate about flora and fauna—he’s a biologist with a degree in ornithology, so he knows *everything* about animals. The slightest sound or song, and he knows what it is. He’s got an eye for spotting them, from the biggest to the smallest.
During the trip, we stopped at km 27 for a short forest walk, then went to see the two main pyramids on the site. On the way back, we stopped at the bat cave for the magical spectacle of millions of bats flying out at dusk. In the end, we saw or glimpsed (some briefly) spider monkeys, howler monkeys, a toucan, 2 tapirs, turkeys, 2 deer, and lots of birds. If, like us, you’re more into flora and fauna than archaeology, I’d *highly* recommend this agency and tour with Fernando.
It’s not cheap, but the road between Bacalar and the site is *long* (3.5 hours). Price: 3900 pesos per person for 2 (3500 for 3, 3200 for 4).
Thursday, July 16:
ADO bus to Playa del Carmen (614 pesos per person).
In Playa del Carmen, we stayed in an Airbnb. The building is on the town hall square, next to the casino.
The best thing about this place is the *location*—super close to Fifth Avenue (La Quinta). The kitchen is pretty basic, but the fridge works well. There are supermarkets nearby. The rooftop pool is really nice. The two big downsides, though, are the soundproofing (you can *hear* the neighbor’s alarm and all the events on the square) and the *total* lack of water pressure in the shower. We had to fill a trash can with water to pour over ourselves. When we told the owner, he said it wasn’t normal and someone would come fix it, but we never heard back. Based on previous reviews, this seems to be a known issue that never gets resolved.
Playa del Carmen is *very* touristy on Fifth Avenue, but in a fun, musical vibe—we never felt unsafe. There are *tons* of little souvenir shops for tourists on this street. There’s a beautiful monumental sculpture on the beach (the two figures meeting in the air), next to which you can see the Voladores show (men climbing a pole, tying themselves with ropes, and descending headfirst while "flying" around the pole). The show is tip-based and happens several times a day. In our opinion, Calle 38 is prettier than Fifth Avenue—it’s lush, green, and quieter, with the sea at the end. Great for an early evening stroll. We had really good meals at great prices at "El Tio Noy" tacos, just a few meters from Fifth Avenue in a side street.
For souvenirs, we’d recommend going to Walmart instead of Fifth Avenue—you’ll find skulls, tequila, mezcal, keychains, mugs, glasses... at good, fixed prices.
Friday, July 17:
We did the excursion to Isla Contoy. Isla Contoy is an uninhabited, highly protected island. Only 200 people are allowed to land per day on a rotating basis, so only a few companies have permission to dock there. Most agencies subcontract the day to a third-party company.
We booked through VRM (Viviendo Riviera Maya), but it was Ocean Tours Mexico that handled the tour. Contoy is a little paradise. We were accompanied by multilingual guides, including French speakers, throughout the day. Steffy gave us info about the island during a short walk on the marked trails, and Leño Tlatemoa kept the mood up on the boat rides with music and dancing. Isla Contoy is *truly* stunning, and the lunch was delicious: grilled fish and chicken, guacamole and tortilla chips, rice, fruit, drinks (everything is brought and taken back by the guides). The snorkeling part was pretty disappointing if you’ve done it in Cozumel, though. The stop at Isla Mujeres isn’t very interesting either—it’s too short to explore, and the island is *extremely* touristy. Still, the excursion was very well organized, and we had a great day (2970 pesos per person).
Saturday, July 18:
We wanted to go snorkeling in Cozumel but thought the prices from French-speaking agencies were too high. Plus, for snorkeling, we figured we didn’t *need* a French-speaking guide.
So we found a much cheaper solution by taking the ferry from Playa del Carmen ourselves and choosing an agency in Playa. The round-trip ferry cost 663.50 pesos per person. Then we took a taxi to the snorkeling boat (100 pesos). The agency we chose is called Mystic Snorkel—they don’t have a physical office. The tour cost 1400 pesos per person. It was a small boat, but that day we were the only ones, so we got a private tour at the group rate. We stopped at 4 different sites, all very different and beautiful. We saw all kinds of fish, corals, a nurse shark, and turtles. El Cielo, with its huge starfish, is *exceptional*. If you’re going snorkeling in the Yucatan Peninsula, this is *the* tour to do—the other sites are pretty "poor" in comparison.
Sunday, July 19:
Morning dive with Triton Diving. I chose the Cozumel dive option. Great experience.
Booking via WhatsApp was easy. On the day of the dive, Selene, who speaks French, was our guide. She’s *very* attentive to the group’s safety. The briefings are clear and precise. In Cozumel, we did 2 very different sites: the first was a drift dive with lots of life—beautiful corals and fish. The second was a wreck, the C53, a 56-meter boat you can enter. Not much marine life, but a beautiful wreck intentionally sunk for divers—still in great condition. An unforgettable moment. Selene even took videos during the dive, which the club sends you for free afterward. I’d *highly* recommend this club.
Just so you know, in Playa del Carmen, the beaches were full of sargassum during our stay, despite barriers and daily cleanup. Locals told us the problem is getting worse and the sargassum is arriving earlier in the season. Tourism has taken a *big* hit this summer, and they’re wondering if tourism can even survive the sargassum season anymore. A lot of tourists are heading to the islands—Isla Mujeres and Cozumel—to enjoy the beaches, as the west side of those islands is sargassum-free.
Monday, July 20:
Colectivo to Puerto Morelos. First, a colectivo toward Cancun that drops you off between Puerto Morelos town and Puerto Morelos beach (40 pesos per person), then another from that junction to the beach (10 pesos per person).
In Puerto Morelos, we’d booked a room via Airbnb at "Piedra del Caribe." *Best* place we stayed in Mexico. It’s an aparthotel. Our room was ready before check-in, so they let us in early. The place matched the description—spacious, with a comfortable king-size bed. The shower had *great* pressure, which isn’t a given in Mexico. The staff was super friendly and welcoming. They let us use the pool, restrooms, and rooftop shower after check-out while we waited for our ride to Cancun Airport. They even kept our luggage. I *highly* recommend this place.
In Puerto Morelos, there was *way* less sargassum than in Playa del Carmen—it was actually swimmable.
We did the snorkeling tour with the fishermen’s cooperative for 450 pesos per person for 2 hours. The reef is close to the beach (you’re not allowed to swim there), so the boat ride is short. It’s not as pretty as Cozumel, but it’s nice and affordable. On Puerto Morelos’s page, you can also access a small, not-very-well-preserved reef. There’s also a cenote in the sea where fresh water mixes with saltwater—the water is murky there. We had a great dinner and excellent cocktails at "La Choza del Puerto."
Tuesday, July 21:
Wandered around Puerto Morelos (check out the church and read everything—it’s entertaining!), relaxed by the hotel pool, and left for Cancun Airport by taxi (400 pesos) booked via InDrive to head back to France.
Our highlights:
- Holbox
- The whale shark tour
- The cenotes
- The local flora and fauna (so present!)
- Isla Contoy
- Cabo Catoche (except for the snorkeling)
What we liked least:
- The bioluminescence (barely visible despite good conditions)
- The food—we found it not very diverse in taquerias
- The constant tipping
- The lack of water pressure in showers (fixed, wall-mounted, no hose or showerhead)
Don’t hesitate to ask if you have any questions while it’s still fresh in our minds.
Here we go—finally, the big day has arrived! A trip the whole family (my two kids, my husband, and me) had been looking forward to for so long.
To keep it short, we left from Nice, arrived in Namibia on June 25, 2025, and left again on the 21st—four weeks later.
We used an agency for all the camping reservations, activities, and the car rental. At least that side of things was taken care of. Michaël was our contact throughout the planning and the trip itself.
We spent our first night at Londiningi BB. A bit out of the city center but very quiet. The rooms were spacious and clean, and we could eat on-site that evening. Perfect for recovering from the flight.
This travel journal is our second on VoyageForum, following last year’s where we recounted our four weeks in Vietnam.
The goal remains the same: since some members on this site share tips, experiences, and great deals that help us prepare for our trips, we do the same after returning—both to give back a little and in the hope that our experiences might be useful to others in some way.
Our route was as follows: Bangkok, Siem Reap, Krabi, Suratthani, Koh Phangan, Koh Tao, Chumphon, Bang Saphan, Prachuab Khiri Khan, Sam Roi Yod, Hua Hin, Phetchaburi, Bangkok.
Beyond rediscovering Bangkok, our objectives were the long-held dream of seeing Angkor and exploring southern Thailand, much of which isn’t overly touristy.
A quick big thank-you to Barbot, who took the time to answer several of our questions.
12/07/2013
The cheapest flight we found earlier this year was a Paris-Bangkok route with a layover in Moscow for 1440 €, total for two people.
So, this time we tried Aeroflot. Airbus A318 for the first leg, A330 for the second. Nothing particularly annoying to report—the passengers were very calm, the cabin temperature was comfortable, and we had enough legroom.
That said, the quality of the meal trays was pretty mediocre, and the flight attendants weren’t exactly comedians.
We’d like to remind everyone that it’s best to exchange as little money as possible at the airport upon arrival, since the rate is about 5% worse than at city banks.
Of course, we made sure to take the airport exit where you can catch official taxis to avoid getting scammed. So, we queued up, a little lady gave us the ticket, and off we went with the driver.
Generally, this system works well because these drivers are registered, know their duties, and the risks they face if they break the rules. Except that day, right off the bat, we got the scammer of the day. His first move was to snatch the ticket from my wife’s hands—the one you’re supposed to keep in case of a complaint. My husband saw it, but after a full day of travel, we were a bit out of it, and honestly, there was no reason to be suspicious. But once we started driving, the guy refused to turn on the meter. We insisted more and more firmly, but nothing. So, I used the famous method of opening the door and starting to step out of the car. At 40 km/h, that scares the driver more than the passenger. He finally turned on the meter, but that didn’t calm him down—quite the opposite. For the next half-hour, he ruined the ride by demanding extra fees here and there. Having dealt with several scam attempts last year in Vietnam, this wasn’t exactly new, and we were proud of ourselves for staying pretty zen. Still, this guy was a little scary—he was completely wired and aggressive. Honestly, it was hard not to think he was on something. He’d be perfect for a *Scarface* remake. When we finally arrived at the hotel, he followed us to the entrance. We paid the two tolls (25 and 45 baht), gave him the usual 100 baht extra for the ride, and stayed polite but firm. So, meter: 245 baht + 100 baht + 25 and 45 baht for tolls—we paid the exact amount, no way we were tipping this guy. He left furious, but he was already like that before picking us up... Anyway, avoid Mr. Chartree Chidchen, number 089 826 7308, car E2663!
We were so relieved to finally settle in at Feung Nakorn Balcony hotel in the temple district. 42 € per night, great reception, all the staff is friendly. The AC works fine, the bed seemed hard at first but turned out to be comfortable. The hotel is quiet, away from the nightlife, but at this time of year, many places are less crowded than in high season. Even with a nice fish pond and outdoor breakfast area, it’s a decent hotel, though we felt we could’ve found something better.
After a night on the plane, the first afternoon is always a bit of a slog. We napped for a few hours, and when we woke up—guess what—we were starving. We visited a temple across from the hotel (nothing special) and then decided to take the Chao Phraya Express, the river shuttle that serves many piers along the river. It was a really enjoyable experience. The steel gangway wobbles when you board and disembark, the boat sits low in the water, and sometimes you get splashed. During peak times, you’re packed in like sardines, but most of all, there’s that exotic urban landscape passing by, especially the temple rooftops.
At that exact moment, the boat was packed. We didn’t see a ticket booth at the pier, and we tried in vain to pay the few baht for the ride. The cashier on the boat was too busy, and another employee we called didn’t have time to help us. Oh well, we weren’t going to force the issue. Still, this mode of transport is super practical for avoiding traffic, and at the piers, the lines with station names are clearly marked, with colors matching the flags on the boats. Combined with a map like the *Routard* guide, it’s easy to navigate.
We easily made it to the restaurant *Harmonique*, located near one of these piers. It’s a unanimous favorite on this forum, and let us tell you—it’s well-deserved. What a wonderful experience that evening! We only saw the outdoor gazebo because there was no way we were dining inside. It’s not flashy, so those looking for a luxurious setting should look elsewhere.
That night, the staff was a bit slow, and we had to track them down several times to move things along. But oh, my friends—what a feast on the plate! Start with the appetizer platter for two at 250 baht, featuring four specialties, each more tempting than the last, followed by their famous crab curry for 200 baht. There’s *so much* crab in there! The dish is so delicious and rich that when you finish, you feel—how to put it—like it was almost *too* good, to the point where you’re almost put off eating for days. And also, oh yes, we *will* be back. Their satay chicken is just as amazing, and it would be a crime not to mention their generous dessert with ice cream, warm banana, and chocolate, plus their *excellent* almond milkshake.
Later, we took a taxi to Kao San Road, mainly to book a Ko Tao-Chumphon trip for 600 baht per person at the Lomprayah counter. In hindsight, we should’ve booked all three of our trips there right away.
Kao San Road is *ultra*-touristy—better for younger crowds, but it’s still worth seeing. There’s rock ‘n’ roll, hippies, and crowds everywhere.
We walked back to the hotel, and when we got a little lost near a canal, a really nice older Thai man spontaneously appeared out of the night to kindly point us in the right direction.
Finally, a real long night of sleep ahead—we cranked up the AC. Sweet, the vacation has begun!
Hi there,
I just got back from a trip to Sri Lanka from December 18th to January 1st with 2 adults and 2 kids (12 years old).
If it helps, here’s my itinerary.
We left on December 18th from Madrid with Qatar Airways. No complaints. I booked my tickets back in March for 800 € per person. (I flew from Madrid because I live near the Spanish border and was too worried about strikes in France.)
We arrived on December 19th at 4 PM (local time). Before leaving France, I’d booked a taxi through MyTransfer for 59 € to Sigiriya. A van was waiting for us at the airport exit.
A never-ending 3-hour drive to Sigiriya. We stayed at Samana Guesthouse—very simple, clean, with a pool and an excellent Sri Lankan breakfast. Shower and straight to bed.
Friday, December 20th: Beautiful weather, but very humid and hot. We visited Lion Rock (36 € for adults) and then Pidurangala.
I loved both sites—they’re a must-do in my opinion.
Spent the late afternoon by the pool.
Saturday, December 21st: Another gorgeous day. The guesthouse manager offered us a free 2-hour tuk-tuk tour. We first visited a lake, rice fields, the temple, and the Sigiriya market, plus the usual tourist trap—the botanical garden (no pressure to buy anything at the end).
Then we took a tuk-tuk to Dambulla Temple, the Golden Buddha, and the wholesale market.
Sunday, December 22nd: Still beautiful weather. I’d booked a taxi for 8 AM. We did all the long trips by taxi to save time. I’d ask for prices from 2 or 3 WhatsApp taxi agencies 2 days or the day before—super responsive, always got replies within 5 minutes. We headed to Ella (4-hour drive) for 22,000 LKR.
Arrived in the afternoon at Rest Full Homestay—a small, family-run guesthouse. Clean, cozy, and an amazing Sri Lankan breakfast.
In the afternoon, we went to Nine Arches Bridge. It was a Sunday, a Sri Lankan holiday, so it was *packed*—mostly locals and very few white tourists! Even though it was crowded, it was cool because it was all Sri Lankans. We waited an hour for the train. It’s worth seeing, but honestly, I didn’t think it was that amazing.
Then we headed to the station to check if we needed to book tickets for the train to Haputale—turns out, no.
Monday, December 23rd: Beautiful weather. We hiked Ella Rock—a gorgeous trek. The final stretch is steep but shaded, so it wasn’t as tough as I’d read. The whole hike is stunning from start to finish. We saw the train pass twice (one blue, one red) and lots of women picking tea.
After that, we did Little Adam’s Peak. It’s not hard, but it was *packed* with tourists—meh. Luckily, at the top, you can walk a bit farther (down one side and back up) to get some space to yourself.
What I *didn’t* like was the commercial vibe at the big café/restaurant with a pool at the entrance of Little Adam’s Peak. Loud music, all that money being made right next to little souvenir stands run by Sri Lankans or tea-picking women. Felt off.
Ended the day buying souvenirs at one of the few shops we found during the trip.
Tuesday, December 24th: Beautiful weather. Took the train to Haputale. We got to the station 30 minutes before the 9:30 AM train. We could’ve taken 2nd or 3rd class—I went with 2nd (160 LKR per person).
It was crowded, but we managed to get seats—first 2, then 3. Only a 1-hour ride, but I *loved* it—windows and doors open the whole time.
Arrived in Haputale around 11 AM, and the mist was already rolling in.
We walked to our guesthouse, The Mist Holiday Bungalow. Simple but clean, with a great view of the tea plantations. The owner’s wife is Vietnamese and used to work for French tour operators, so her French is still pretty good—helpful for us since our English is terrible. They booked us a tuk-tuk for 4:45 AM the next day (2,000 LKR) to Lipton’s Seat.
Spent the afternoon wandering around Haputale. Not much charm, but there’s a nice fruit and veggie market and a short walk through the tea plantations.
Wednesday, December 25th: Beautiful weather. The tuk-tuk was on time to take us to Lipton’s Seat. We were the first ones there—the sky was just starting to turn pink. In the end, only about ten of us watched the sunrise. The guesthouse had packed us breakfast, and we walked back down (half on the road, half through the plantations). Didn’t see any tea picking since it was Christmas, but the walk was still incredible. We took detours through villages full of kids.
After that, we visited the tea factory. The tour was really interesting, and we took the bus back down to Haputale. Such a great moment—whole families were heading to mass, dressed up and made up. All so beautiful.
At noon, we left for Udawalawe National Park. Taxi for 14,000 LKR. Stayed at River Inn Safari Cottage. *Warning*: It’s the same place as Eagle Safari Cottage. I don’t recommend it. We’d always stayed with families before, but here it was just staff—totally different vibe. The pool was nice but not very clean (water was murky). The bungalow was big and fine, but it was brand new—so new the asphalt floor wasn’t fully dry. It’s in the middle of nowhere, so we had to eat on-site. Couldn’t leave a review on Booking because they never confirmed we’d stayed, and they canceled our reservation the next day.
Thursday, December 26th: Beautiful weather. I’d booked a safari through the hotel for 5:30–10 AM for 54 USD. Honestly, yes, there are a lot of jeeps, but it was great. The kids loved it—we saw everything there was to see.
Left by taxi at 11:30 AM for Welligama (12,000 LKR).
We didn’t stay in Welligama city but at Coconut Beach, between Welligama and Midigama. *Total crush* on the guesthouse: Sky Mountain Café with View. Such a lovely family. The mom makes amazing meals at reasonable prices. The view from the hill over the sea is unreal.
Spent the afternoon walking along the beach.
Friday, December 27th: Beautiful weather. My kids are surfers. Unfortunately, there weren’t any boards their size to rent at Coconut, so we took a tuk-tuk to Welligama Bay (1,000 LKR). They surfed from 8 AM to 5 PM—rental was 5,000 LKR for the day. Meanwhile, we walked the beach and swam. Water was 29°C.
Saturday, December 28th: Beautiful weather, rain from 4 PM until midnight. Same surf day. They were so well-behaved the whole trip, so this was their reward.
Sunday, December 29th: Beautiful weather. Beach day at Coconut. *Warning*: It’s a reef break. For surfers, there are three spots (Coconut Left, Middle, and Right). The boys bodysurfed (with fins) all morning, and at 1 PM, we took the bus to Hikkaduwa.
Stayed at Hotel Universal Beach. Nothing special—right on the water, but the rooms were dark even though they were clean. The manager was super nice, but the rest was meh, and breakfast was mediocre compared to what we’d had before (2 eggs and 3 slices of toast). Plus, it was late—8 AM.
First impression of Hikkaduwa wasn’t great—way too many Russians for our taste.
Monday, December 30th: Beautiful weather. Spent the whole day exploring. Turtle Beach, then the other side of the beach (toward Galle) near the fishing port. The beach there is much wider, with scattered hotels and super quiet. It’s beautiful—I should’ve booked somewhere in that area. Ended up having a great day away from the crowds.
Tuesday, December 31st: Overcast, then beautiful, rain at 4 PM. Had to end the year (and the trip) with some surf. Rented boards for the kids (3,000 LKR per board for the day). Bad luck—the waves were on a reef break but small. Not great for them, but no big deal. They still got out of the water by 2 PM. Walked the beach (which is gorgeous), had a juice, and went for a swim. Then back to surfing in the rain at 4 PM.
Wednesday, January 1st: Left by taxi at 5 AM (18,000 LKR). Flight at 10 AM. Arrived in Madrid at 8 PM.
I could have titled my travel journal like Carmen: "Some trips are born twice." Indeed, we had considered this destination back in February 2020. However, an honest tour operator advised us against traveling at that time due to the climate. So, we gave up and opted for Guatemala instead (see "On the Mayan Lands" on this site).
So, why this title? When I was in primary school, over 65 years ago, the illustrations in my history books (Machu Picchu) and geography books (Lake Titicaca) made me dream, and those images stayed in my mind. It took until 2026 to finally make this dream come true!
We prepared our trip with Tout Pérou, a French-speaking "agency." Everything was handled via email and WhatsApp exchanges with our contact: Laurent, who was both competent, friendly, and full of good advice.
For 200 €, Tout Pérou provided us with drivers and guides whenever we wanted, helped us buy our domestic flights (cheaper when purchased in Peru), booked shuttles between airports and hotels, and got us a discount on the train ride to Aguas Calientes, as well as on the buses between Chivay and Puno and between Puno and Cusco. In short, Laurent took care of all the logistics and the Machu Picchu tickets. It was up to us to book our hotels. Tout Pérou provided a list, but we weren’t obliged to follow it. Another advantage of the package: we didn’t have to pay in advance; we paid the service providers directly day by day.
We didn’t meet Laurent in person because he was on vacation in Europe. Before his departure, he gave us a briefing, provided a summary table with the entire program, the service providers, their phone numbers, their fees, the schedules, and gave us plenty of advice (money, exchange, safety, etc.). After returning at the end of our stay, he kept checking in on us.
Lastly, we had also gathered information from Arnaud Lagadec, who runs a hotel in Cusco and offers tours of the region. He gave us a lot of useful information. Another contact: Thomas Montaigne, very friendly, who runs an agency in Arequipa (Agence Pérou Exclusif).
Day 1 – Paris to Lima
Foreword
I’ll share our trip without any pretension—I don’t have the talent of some contributors on this forum—and I’ll illustrate it with a few photos (taken with an ordinary smartphone). My comments are personal and only reflect my own views. So, please be kind! Feel free to comment on my story as you like, but let’s avoid pointless debates.
Even though we live in the south of the Paris region, true to our habits when the flight is in the morning, we chose to spend the night before our departure in a hotel near CDG and parked our car in a parking lot in Garches. This way, we avoid the stress that often comes with traveling around Paris (accidents, roadworks, traffic jams, etc.).
Check-in and border control went smoothly on that Sunday morning. Our Air France flight was uneventful. In Lima, border control took a particularly long time, and for the first time, we didn’t get an entry visa stamped in our passports.
As planned, a driver took us to the Miraflores district, where our hotel was located. We were surprised by the numerous signs about possible tsunamis, having forgotten that Peru is prone to such events and regularly experiences earthquakes. We’d see the consequences of these during our journey.
Exhausted from the early wake-up, the 13-hour flight, and the 7-hour time difference, we had dinner at the hotel before a restful night.
Note that this day was Peru’s presidential election day. As a result, we weren’t served beer—the sale of alcohol was banned that Sunday.
2- Around San Pedro
We were trapped, and even our guide looked nervous. After what felt like an eternity (though it was only a few minutes), the herd finally moved on, freeing the track. That afternoon, we did a self-drive safari and—you guessed it—we had zero interest in running into elephants again.
The next day, we headed back to Lilongwe for our flight home. It was a fantastic, varied trip with some intense moments (sometimes *too* intense). Malawi offers amazing opportunities for those who want more than just wildlife reserves.
Vila beach
Sunset behind Santiago
The rocks and sea at Ponta Preta
At the summit of Monte Batalha
Calheta
Calheta de Baixo
The beaches just keep coming...
The dunes
The 3 coconut trees, a landmark to find the track
Boca da Ribeira beach
The hills on our right
Ribeira Dom João
Barreiro
The old track
The church in Vila do Maio
The large solidified magma massifs that shape the heart of the island have created a large depression more protected from the sun at its center, allowing the growth of a vast laurel forest, today grouped within the Garajonay National Park, La Gomera’s green lung, which has earned it the status of a World Biosphere Reserve. Its completely European appearance contrasts sharply with the rocky and tropical landscapes of the rest of the island. Thus, the climate varies greatly from one point to another on the island: in summer, you can quickly go from a dry and sunny valley at 35°C to a humid forest area at altitude at 18°C.
On the right, the "welcome marker"—those dates offered everywhere as a sign of hospitality. On the left, a tribute to those stunning doors worn by time, admired all over the old quarters, including the abandoned ones.
Hospitality will often lead you to accept a small coffee, an "Omani coffee," very light, subtly flavored with cardamom, maybe a touch of saffron, and occasionally rosewater.
Here, I’ve depicted a man in the common everyday attire of Omanis: the dishdasha, mostly white (during the week and daytime; colors are more common in the evening or on Fridays and Saturdays). While you’ll see some men dressed in Western clothes, they’re very few. The white dishdasha is truly the shared attire of all men. The dishdasha, which has no hood, is distinguished by a small pom-pom attached to the collar, the furakha, which is soaked in perfume. And believe me, Omanis go overboard with it! "It smells like the pom-pom" is an expression that’s now part of our shared language, my husband and I.
Another must of men’s attire is the kuma, a small round head covering, usually white with brightly colored patterns. The keffiyeh is also worn (but without the cord called an agal in Arab countries), and it’s mostly worn by those with roots in the desert, from what I understood.
And what about the women, you might ask? Some are veiled, some in full black (but not a burka—more like a chador + abaya), due to the influence of Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates, whereas the traditional outfit used to be a layering of very colorful dresses. Most of the women we saw wore neutral clothing, a plain veil over their hair, but with their faces uncovered. We also saw many saris and colorful veils—don’t forget that 40% of the population consists of Indian, Nepalese, and Bangladeshi immigrants, who work a lot in tourism, hospitality, restaurants, services, and construction.
Just to clarify, as a tourist, there’s no pressure to wear a veil, and never any disapproving looks. Of course, you’ll save the mini shorts, plunging necklines, bare shoulders, and midriffs for the hotel terrace—but I’d say that’s the same for men and women, and with the sun being strong, it’s better for your skin too.
Here’s the introduction! In the next post, I’ll tell you about my itinerary, and we can dive in!
Roundabouts are particularly interesting because they feature emblems of Turkmen culture, like the dog, a carpet, the Ahal Teke horse, or Muslim symbols, even though the presence of Islamic artifacts is quite limited.
