Swedish Lapland - Padjelantaledden solo trek

The eternal backpack dilemma

They say we bring our fears along… My biggest one is not making it the distance, so I’ve lightened my pack as much as possible (I’ve had a dodgy Achilles tendon for months) and also to carry 11 days’ worth of food, since resupply spots are rare. Plus, I’m hoping to leave the Padjelantaleden for a Sarek crossing. That’s actually why I chose the Padjelanta—it’s also less crowded than the Kungsleden.

The Padjelantaleden is a well-marked trek: 140 km, 9 stages, and very manageable elevation. But the Sarek? That’s a whole different beast—no markings, no huts, no planks, no bridges, and river crossings that range from tricky to tough. For me, it’s a serious step up, so I’m keeping the option open to decide on the spot.

I’ve got 8.1 kg of gear (not counting the gas I bought in Stockholm or the water, which is everywhere in Sweden). And 4.5 kg of food (it’s tight, but I’m hoping to pick up a few bits along the way).



On August 12, 2022, I arrived in Stockholm, where I’ve got 3 days to kill before the first train north. Stockholm’s a lovely city, but since my goal is hiking, I’ve been a bit restless here.

Tuesday 16/08 - Day 1 - Ritsem to Gisuris (well, almost) in the rain

After spending the night sitting up on the train (I should’ve waited one more day to get a sleeper berth), where I barely slept but was thrilled to cross the Arctic Circle, I arrive in Gällivare at 8 AM and catch the bus. The ride is long, but I’m so happy to be there that I enjoy every minute. The bus makes several stops, including Saltoluokta for those wanting to join the Kungsleden, 30 minutes at Stora Sjöfallet where there’s a nice café, and at the Suorva dam for those entering Sarek from the north (apparently not the easiest entry point). I’m already enchanted by the landscapes.

My destination is Ritsem, the stop right at the departure point for the boat that crosses the lake and leads to the start of the Padjelantaleden trail.

12:30 PM, the boat sets off, and so does the rain...

Okay, I’m in Lapland—gotta own it!

From today’s hike, I’ll remember three things: the views of the Akkka massif, crossing the Vuoajatätno river on a huge bridge, and that every rain jacket has its limits. Otherwise, lots of forest and low visibility due to all the rain. I discover the boardwalks—they’ll be a big part of the trail. And when you see the mud they help you avoid, you’re really glad they’re there.









At 5:30 PM, I take advantage of an unexpected break in the weather to set up my tent. I didn’t make it to Gisuris, but I’m soaked to the bone, and there’s a great view from this hill of green mountains and marshes. (The hill turned out to be a big mistake, as I’d learn during the night.)





Tonight, I’m torn—I’m happy in this stunning setting, but I’m also thinking that 11 days solo might feel long...

I’ll try to keep you all company, but there are 3 things I’d never do: - a trek - a solo trip - a trip to Lapland So it’s with huge curiosity that I’m about to follow a solo trek in Lapland... what an adventure!

It seems we carry our fears with us...

... and sometimes, step by step, the path takes care of settling them.[:)]

This trip was in 2022? So you’ve made it out of Sarek. If you ever feel like returning, or finding familiar names and routes between the words, there’s a book that captures it faithfully—and tells a story that’s a little... oppressive, in these incredible landscapes.

Oppressive but addictive.

Sarek by Ulf Kvensler Points

Thanks Gaura for the company—I never imagined doing a solo trek either! Goes to show...

True, Kola, about the fears. Okay, I’ll spoil it, but Sarek had to wait until 2024. And I devoured that book right before going! The start of my planned 2022 itinerary was exactly the same as the one in the book. So, I patted myself on the back for not attempting the solo experience in the 2022 conditions. Sarek is a unique, magical experience that makes you want to go back once you’ve tasted it...

Wednesday 17/08 – Day 2 – Partly in the tent + slow progress toward Gisuris

8:40 AM - The night was awful. I fell asleep at 9:45 PM but was woken up several times by gusts of wind violently shaking my little tent! They hit the side, catching the full force of the wind—pitching it on that exposed hill was definitely a mistake! I wondered if I should get up to reorient the tent, but it started raining again, so I gave up... At times, the tent was pressed right against me as the pole bent under the wind’s assault. But it held strong (and so did I).

12:40 PM - I’m still in my tent; it hasn’t stopped raining. Sometimes it lightens up, but since I don’t know if the lull will last, I have zero motivation to start packing up.

Around 3 PM, the rain stopped, so I decided to break camp and made it to the Gisuris hut. The warden wasn’t there, but a helpful man tried to list the available beds. There were quite a few people coming and going, which made me want to leave. I pitched my tent a little farther away.

Now that it’s raining again, I need to relieve myself, and it’s cold—I’m kind of regretting it.

Photo of the campsite taken the next morning under much better weather.

Good evening Laure, I’m a bit like Gaura—trekking solo in the Noooorth isn’t really my thing. But I’m totally in awe of such an adventure, especially coming from a woman in her fifties who wasn’t necessarily a super adventurer to begin with, from what I understand 👏. So I’ll be following your journey with pleasure, especially since it clearly hasn’t been smooth sailing… and that’s what adds spice to your story 😄. See you soon for the next part! Christelle

Aug 18 – Day 3 – Gisuris – Laddejakha (23 km) under beautiful sunshine

The night wasn’t great, but in the morning, the weather finally cleared up.

Today’s leg was magnificent—endless lakes with stunning shades of blue, snow-capped mountains in the distance. It was breathtaking and exhilarating. And I saw my first reindeer, so it was a total win!













That said, the hike was long (23 km), and I really felt it in my tendon and shoulders. I took plenty of breaks and popped some paracetamol. The last stretch was a vast plateau swept by the wind—brrr, it seemed endless, but the view was incredible.



At the ford at the end of the plateau, I ran into a couple I’d chatted with briefly on the first day (they must’ve been at least 75!). I felt so much admiration and was thrilled thinking about all the years ahead of me to keep doing this.

In the evening, I pitched my tent a little farther than the Laddejakha hut.

Haha, no doubt—up to now, this is still MY biggest adventure because of the solo aspect! Otherwise, the trek is well-marked, there are huts pretty regularly, and even if it’s not crowded, there are still people around. And no wild animals ;-) Thanks for the message, see you next time.

Fri 19/08 – Day 4 – Leg Laddejakha to Arasluokta (13.5 km)

Today’s leg was short (13 km), but it was overcast and windy the whole way. There was rain too, but luckily not continuous.

But what a freezing wind! And that feeling of always having it in your face... Hard to take breaks longer than a few minutes—you get cold too fast. So you just have to keep moving. Such a shame with all this gray, because the landscapes still look amazing.



The wind was so strong that my backpack’s rain cover flew away without me even noticing! That’s clever—like it wasn’t useful or anything!!

Arasluokta is a Sámi village, built in a stunning location.









The refuge consists of several 6-bed cabins. I grabbed a bed—the thought of sharing close quarters with others made me hesitate, but I didn’t feel like searching for a bivouac spot with that relentless wind. The photo’s blurry, but it gives you an idea.



And it feels good to be able to spread out your stuff.



I bought myself some Sámi bread, which I devoured between 1 p.m. and 4 p.m., and some reindeer meat to follow up my sausage, which won’t last the whole trek. I also took the chance to do a bit of laundry.

It’s still a strange experience. If the weather were better, it’d be different, but with this bad weather, everything changes—impossible to stop, eat in peace, take in the view. In the evening, you have to pitch the tent as fast as possible and dive straight into your sleeping bag.

Around 6 p.m., after mulling over these positive thoughts (and a few others I’ll keep to myself), I went back to buy another Sámi bread and asked the caretaker (an impressive Sámi man with a long knife at his belt) about the weather. “Three days of rain,” he tells me... Yikes!

So I bought a beer and some chocolate and went back to turn on the heater in the cabin, where I ended up alone after all.

I feel like Sarek is slipping away—I should’ve turned off tomorrow, but with all this bad weather, I don’t want to risk unmarked paths, river crossings, or the lack of refuges...

Later in the day, I went for another walk around the area. There was this incredible light—it was awesome.



Too bad there’s no signal to share this with someone...

Sat 20/08 - Day 5 - Arasluokta - Staloluokta (12 km)

Another epic day! In the morning, seeing the sky was low and grey but partly clear, I decided to set off early to avoid the rain as much as possible.

7:30 AM, time to go—it’s not too chilly, the path is pleasant, and the views are stunning despite the overcast sky.







By noon, I’d covered the 12 km to the next hut, where I settled into the common room to warm up and eat my daily tabbouleh with raisins and sausage.

I chatted about the weather with a woman who told me it would rain all day, a bit better tomorrow but rain in the late afternoon, and a storm coming from the lake on Monday... Great, just getting better! This was where I’d planned to head into Sarek, but of course, that’s no longer an option. I’ll have to come back and try my luck again (which I did in 2024 😄).

Okay, fine... I’ll admit the idea of camping here and enjoying the common room tonight tempted me, but comfort isn’t what I came for on this adventure, so I set off again.

Sure enough, after 20/30 minutes, a heavy downpour hit me. I hesitated to turn back but kept going. Rain, wind—ugh, not cool at all.

Then came a river crossing where I had to take off my shoes—ugh, what a pain... I put on my Crocs, crossed, walked another 5 minutes, and spotted a spot downhill that looked perfect for a bivouac. Since the rain had eased up a bit, I set up the tent as fast as the wind allowed and dove inside. It must’ve been around 2 PM—this afternoon was going to be long.





I feasted on crispbread, sausage, and chocolate after changing clothes. I wrote messages to my loved ones to send later when I’d have signal. But the rain picked up again, and the wind shook my tent in a really worrying way... So I did two Sudokus to keep my mind busy and not dwell on all the worst-case scenarios my brain was cooking up. But of course, I still thought about them... Around 6:30 PM, miracle—everything calmed down. I took out my stove, cooked outside with a gorgeous rainbow and post-storm light. I was lucky because the rain came back a little later.







I’ve covered 68 km so far, with 73 km left. Since I’m not crossing Sarek, I’ve got 2 days’ buffer. I’m telling myself I’m proud of what I’m accomplishing right now. Alright, enough of this—time to get out of the sleeping bag and brush my teeth! Brrr...

Tue 21/08 – Day 6 – Stage Staloluokta – Duottar (18km)

It was a beautiful day, with stunning landscapes (I think I’m repeating myself!), too bad the sky was a bit overcast, but no wind and some sunshine now and then. I set off around 8 AM and didn’t run into anyone for 2 hours.



After about 30 minutes, I heard some calls and saw these magnificent swans coming toward me.



Later research told me they were whooper swans. Either way, the sight was magical.



I crossed a bridge with some beautiful waterfalls,





and continued my journey through these breathtaking landscapes.

The upside of hiking alone and not having anyone to talk to is that you’re less likely to scare off the reindeer...

Then came these open landscapes with pretty lakes that reminded me of Scotland.







On a descent, I slipped on a big, slick rock and scraped my forearm, but nothing a little Z-trauma cream won’t fix.

Tue 21/08 – Day 6 – Staloluokta – Duottar (18km) - Continued To get to the Duottar hut, you have to cross two fords. The first one was a bit intimidating—pretty wide, with a strong current and water up to my knees. Okay, in the photo, it doesn’t look that scary—maybe that was the second one.

(The stake shows where to cross)

Between the two, I was too lazy to put my shoes back on, and in my crocs, I took a nasty spill and face-planted into the mud. Nooo, my only pair of pants is now filthy!!

I eyed enviously the people sunbathing on the terraces of the different cabins at the hut, but once again, I kept moving after buying some *same* bread and peanuts from the warden (super nice guy).

I walked a bit further and pitched my tent by a pretty lake, where I took a quick dip and rinsed off some of my gear.





And the cherry on top—there’s a reindeer herd nearby.



Today was great because I could take relaxed breaks with amazing views. I’m glad I took advantage of it because the hut warden said it’s going to be cooler tomorrow.

8:15 PM, a bit of rain, a bit of wind, and like yesterday, a stunning sunset with that gorgeous light filtering through the threatening clouds.





It was beautiful, but damn, it was freezing cold.

Read 22/08 Day 7 - Duottar – Dareluoppal (10 km) Sammarlappa (15.3 km) Under the sign of mud!!

Today wasn’t the day my shoes, which were already damp, would dry out. Tonight, they’re completely soaked. All that effort to put on a dry pair of socks this morning...

In the morning, there was sunshine, but also some gray skies. So I got up "out of bed" to pack up before any potential rain and enjoy a bit of the sun. At 7:30 AM, I was on the trail, and by 7:40 AM, it was pouring! A good, soaking rain! That happened three times in the morning, but luckily, there was quite a bit of wind to dry things out between showers.

Too bad, because the landscape was stunning, with lakes in a row, each more beautiful than the last.







At 10:40 AM, I passed the Dareluoppal hut. One more big lake, then a valley with gorgeous mountains on the right and water glistening as it trickled down.

Then, a beautiful sun breaking through the clouds, a magnificent rainbow, and the perfect opportunity for a nice midday break with the sun at my back.



I’m glad I took advantage of it because by 12:30 PM, it was over.

In the afternoon, I had to take off my shoes four times to cross rivers,



the trail was super muddy, and I lost count of how many times I got stuck in the mud. Or how many times I slipped on the planks (at least three) and took a good tumble. Later, I heard that someone had seriously injured themselves slipping and had to be evacuated by helicopter.

I arrived at the Sammarlappa hut at 5:30 PM, a bit worn out, without finding a bivouac spot that suited me. The very kind warden told me I could camp nearby and use the kitchen for around 30 €, or that there was a bivouac area 200 meters further on. I went to check it out, and since it worked for me, I set up my tent and did what cleaning I could. Dinner at 7:45 PM, then back into my sleeping bag, waiting for a break in the rain to clean my cookware and brush my teeth, since the rain had returned.

Today, I hiked near two Dutch guys I’d met the day before—we kept running into each other at river crossings, which was nice for a bit of company and a chance to chat.

Oh, and I saw two groups of reindeer at the end—so cool!!

My 23/08 - Day 8 - Sammarlappa – Tarrekaise (12km) + half Tarrekaise-Nunjes (approx. 3 km)

Tonight I’m in a joyful mood. After a somewhat boring stage today, here’s a truly stunning bivouac spot. A magnificent setting by a lake, sunshine, a few clouds, and a cool breeze—but also beautiful mountains. In short, it’s breathtaking.













This is the first somewhat peaceful bivouac—not in the gloom, not in the rain, not set up in a rush or late. Arrived at 4:30 PM, which gives plenty of time to settle in and enjoy.

All this after a somewhat monotonous stage (not much of a view and lots of forest), two river crossings, and plenty of mud. Still, there were some cute ducks and two friendly Germans I’d spotted yesterday and chatted with a bit.



Nice touch at the Tarrekaise hut:

Wed 24/08 – Day 9 – End of Tarrekaise-Nunjes (approx. 4 km) Kvikkjokk (12.6 km) This is my last day on the Padjelantaleden trail, and the weather is absolutely gorgeous.

I got really cold during the night, so I slept badly, and since there was crazy dew on the tent, I slept in and waited for the sun to dry it.

I’m in no rush to catch the 1:30 PM boat (there are two daily trips to Kvikkjokk—one at 9:30 AM and the other at 1:30 PM—or you can call the driver to pick you up for an extra fee). All the info here.

The first part of the hike was stunning, on a plateau with a view of the river narrowing into a beautiful waterfall.





Then came a coniferous forest.





I almost stopped to camp by the river (the spot wasn’t great), but then a Swedish couple passed by and said they were probably going to call the boat. After three minutes of thinking, I swapped my mosquito-infested roadside spot for a return to civilization and caught up with the Swedes at the dock.

While waiting for the boat, we took a dip—it was super nice, just like the boat ride back with the chatty driver.







For info, the two German girls I met the next day in Kvikkjokk told me there were nice camping spots near the dock.

In Kvikkjokk, there’s a beautiful building with rooms and a restaurant, and you can pitch your tent for free nearby—but the area isn’t great, and it’s a bit crowded (it’s also a stop on the Kungsleden trail, which explains the traffic).

That said, campers can book a shower slot, and just that is pure bliss!!

Thu 25/08 and Fri 26/08 – Around Kvikkjokk

I had 2 days to kill before taking the bus and train back to Stockholm.

On the first morning, I lounged a bit in my sleeping bag (I was still cold during the night), then had a coffee at the refuge (pure bliss), wrote a bit to everyone now that I finally had signal again, looked for a museum I never found, ran into the boat driver (Bjork, I think) who wanted to show me this and that (I declined), and hiked back up the beautiful rapids of Gamajahka near the refuge.



In the afternoon, I did a gorgeous hike up to Mount Sinjerak to the east, with stunning views of the surroundings and the delta.







The next day (phew, it’s the last day—I was starting to feel like time was dragging), I took another beautiful walk toward Prinskullen to the west after Bjork gave me a boat ride to the starting point.



More gorgeous views of the delta

and in the distance, the Sarek mountains. Prinskullen is an entry point to this region, though not the easiest one either.

In the evening, while eating outside at the picnic tables, I chatted a bit with a young Swedish guy and a young Dutch woman who were hiking the Kungsleden. They said it was really busy. The Swedish guy told me he’d seen an average of 40 people a day and was surprised when I said I’d only seen about 4!

And that’s it—it’s over...

A final little paragraph for a quick recap: I’m thrilled I did this amazing trek despite the “unusual heavy rain,” as a local put it. I’m proud I handled everything that came my way—it was a fantastic experience. Managing the dampness became very real!

The trek is very well marked, easy to follow, not crowded, and truly beautiful. The solitude didn’t weigh on me too much (except toward the end), but not being able to send messages to my loved ones (or receive any) during the whole trek—that was really tough.

Coming up next: a food and gear recap for those interested.

Food and gear summary

Since I looked up a lot of info on this topic before leaving, I’ll share my feedback on food.

During the trek, I ate pretty much the same things every day. I tried to focus on foods with a good weight-to-calorie ratio.

With the rations below, I was roughly at 1,700 kcal/day.

Morning: cereal (60g) with a bit of cold water to hydrate, mixed with seeds (20g).

At 10 AM: a few dates (50g) (super calorie-dense but pretty sticky).

Lunch: tabbouleh (80g), raisins (20g) (soaked in cold water since the morning) with salt, spices, and a few slices of sausage (25g) (no bread—I found it meh). Cereal bar for dessert (30g).

When I bought reindeer meat and chocolate, I added slices of reindeer to the tabbouleh (way better) and had the chocolate for dessert (so good but such a sugar rush—hard to stop at just one bar). I saved the cereal bar for an afternoon snack.



After setting up camp: salty seeds (I’d planned 20g/day but it wasn’t enough—I ate more and ran out). Then I switched to leftover sausage from lunch + same bread (perfect), and when the sausage was gone, peanuts.

Evening: freeze-dried meal (my only hot meal—I rotated between 3 different types) + dark chocolate + herbal tea.

I also had freeze-dried applesauce (25g) every other day.

I repackaged my freeze-dried meals in freezer bags—great for saving space and reducing waste, but not so great when there’s sauce (like bolognese pasta). All the sauce powder sticks to the bottom, so the first serving has almost none, and the last has way too much.

I have a 750ml titanium pot (expensive upfront, but I’ve had it for years—super light and I use it for everything, from tabbouleh at lunch to freeze-dried meals in the evening) + a collapsible soft cup (minimal bulk) for morning cereal and evening tea.

I’m thrilled with my Nylofume bags—they kept my stuff dry even after I lost my backpack’s rain cover.

For power, I had a 20,000 mAh battery (a bit heavy, but I was too scared of running out). I charged my phone a little every day (I had all the maps, GPX tracks, and used it for photos when it was damp and my camera was in its waterproof bag). Since I had two camera batteries, I didn’t need to recharge it, and the 20,000 mAh was more than enough.

I also had a PLB beacon that sends your location to a rescue coordination center via satellite if you’re able to extend the antenna and press the button (this was to reassure myself if I ventured into Sarek and to reassure my family).

Not to forget my Crocs (well, the knock-offs I bought at a big-box store)—essential, in my opinion, for river crossings.

And my trusty tent, which never let me down: a Big Agnes Copper Spur 1-person tent.

Awesome travel journal, what a great challenge and congrats on pulling it off! 👍

Thanks Anna!

Thanks for the feedback on this trek—great photos, but you really didn’t have luck with the weather! It’s a route that doesn’t see many hikers. We did it in 2016 and, like you, barely crossed paths with anyone. On the plus side, we had great weather all week, but there was no one in the huts to buy food from. Sarek must’ve been amazing—Padjelantaledden is already so wild, so I bet you had an incredible time. Hopefully with some beautiful blue skies! Safe travels.

Awesome travel journal! Thanks so much. And congrats on the adventure.

Great weather all week, how lucky!! Last summer in Sarek was truly amazing—so wild... We had fluctuating weather, and luckily we had some buffer to handle the unexpected. Thanks Patrick

Thanks Bluequark, I really enjoyed reliving this trek thanks to all the notes I had plenty of time to take while I was there!

Yes, really well done Laure. This isn’t just travel anymore—it’s more like an expedition! 👏 Thanks for sharing your adventure with us, and see you next time. Christelle

Thanks for your story and sharing your experience! Hike? OK Solo? Most of the time Lapland? Not yet!

I’m not quite ready for such an adventure yet—so far, my backpacking trips have been with "hard" sleeping arrangements, even with meal options to keep my pack weight down or meet people. I’ve started bivouacking again this year, but no more than 3 days at a time. I already find my pack weight impressive, even though I have good, lightweight gear (but I bring more food... the weight of fear, etc.). I’m thinking about the Kungsleden in Sweden [;)]—among other things... Anyway, thanks for this adventure—it’s inspiring!

Thanks Christelle for your friendly feedback!

Thanks Pascale, it's great to take it step by step, and most importantly, the key is to enjoy yourself. If you tackle the Kungsleden, you can resupply regularly at the huts even if you don’t sleep there, which can solve the food-weight issue. I did a section of the Kungsleden in 2024—it was really fun!