Compte tenu de la situation politique et humaine en Birmanie, j’ai tenu à me documenter bien plus que d’habitude sur le pays, afin d’une part de mieux comprendre son histoire, mieux appréhender le pays et surtout, en tant que touriste « routarde », essayer au maximum d'éviter d’alimenter les bourses de la junte.
Faire le choix de voyager en Birmanie est un véritable cas de conscience. J'ai fait le choix d'y aller, après plusieurs années de réflexion, mais je voudrais donc être une touriste avertie, responsable, observatrice, afin de reléguer au mieux ce que je pourrais constater, même si malheureusement les dirigeants n'ouvrent au regard des touristes que les territoires qu'ils veulent bien nous montrer.
Emprunter les routes qui ont été construites par des travailleurs forcés (et non payés), visiter les temples en sachant que des milliers de personnes ont été évacués de leurs propriétés pour que ces sites soient plus beaux à la vue des touristes...Tout cela, je le verrais d'un œil averti. A travers la beauté du pays, il ne faut pas oublier la détresse et la pauvreté de ses habitants la répression, la torture, les viols, les droits des hommes bafoués par un gouvernement corrompu et dictatorial.
Je sais aussi quand allant dans les guesthouses indiquées par « focus Birmanie » ou bien encore « tourism transparency » ou encore le guide routard, je ne serais pas accueilli dans un hôtel « privatisé » appartenant à un proche du gouvernement. Je sais aussi qu'en achetant dans les petites échoppes ma nourriture, mes objets du quotidien, quelques souvenirs, je ferais vivre un tant soit peu le commerce du pays qui échappe à la junte. Je sais qu'en ne passant pas par une agence de voyage, mais en faisant appel aux locaux, j'ai des chances de ne pas donner mon argent directement au pouvoir en place... Enfin, sans compter les taxes honteuses !
J'espère pouvoir reléguer au mieux mes ressentis, ce que je verrai ou constaterai. J'espère pouvoir rencontrer des locaux, différentes ethnies, observer, communiquer, comprendre...un peu. Je ne veux jamais oublier tout au long de mon séjour que la Birmanie est l'une des plus horribles dictatures au monde, et cela, même en admirant les paysages magnifiques qui m'entoureront. Je ne veux pas oublier que derrière le sourire et la bienveillance de ses habitants, se cache bien des horreurs qu'ils ne peuvent nous conter.
Site incontournable très bien documenté : http://www.info-birmanie.org
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çà c'était avant de partir … le voyage fut bien plus compliqué que prévu …
9/01/16 – 19h – Après 24h de vols et escales, me voilà arrivée à Mandalay. Je suis crevée et la 1ere chose que je fais en arrivant à mon hôtel c'est de me reposer. Le sommeil ne vient pas, alors, je me décide à aller arpenter les rues pour me repérer un peu.
Mandalay est énorme. En cette fin d'après-midi, les voitures et scooters remplissent les avenues et il est difficile de traverser. L'ambiance me rappelle l'Inde.
Je vais jusqu'à la gare pour me renseigner sur mon biller pour aller mardi matin à Hsipaw. La billetterie est fermée, je dois y retourner demain... Mais le guichetier qui partait me confirme que le départ du train se fait à 4h du matin...aïe aïe aïe...J'espère que ce trajet de 11h pour faire 135 km en vaut vraiment la chandelle comme le disent les internautes.
Je repars vers l’hôtel en passant devant le parc, entouré d'eau, qui abrite le Palais Royale. Je me rends compte que ce par doit être effectivement très grand et qu'il serait peut-être préférable demain d'aller jusqu'à la colline de Mandalay en scooter/taxi pour tout redescendre ensuite. Je verrai avec l’hôtel.
En attendant, je m'arrête chez « Pan Cherry », restaurant indien noté dans le Routard. La cuisine épicée ne fait pas bon ménage avec mon estomac, alors j'y vais mollo... mais c'est vraiment bon.
Retour à l’hôtel. Besoin vraiment de dormir pour démarrer réellement ma découverte du pays demain.
10/1/16 – 10h30 – Après une bonne nuit de sommeil, me voilà à la recherche d'un scotter pour m'emmener jusqu'en bas de la colline de Mandalay. Devant le Nylon hôtel, 1 rue plus loin que le mien, se trouve taxis, scooters, locations de vélos. Pour 2000ks me voilà embarquée derrière un chauffeur, avec 1 casque 3 fois trop grand pour moi.
En bas de l'escalier sud, 2 énormes lions indiquent le début de la montée : 1700 marches, ponctuées de nombreux sanctuaires.
Arrivée en haut, on a une belle vue sur Mandalay, son poumon veut avec le Palais Royal et au fond, le fleuve Irrawady.
Nombreux birmans viennent me parler, se prennent en photo avec moi, regardant ce que j'écris. Un attroupement de jeunes garçons se fait autour de moi. Ils sont adorables. Après cette pause, il va falloir redescendre toutes ces marches et continuer la visite vers les temples et pagodes qui se trouvent en bas de la colline.
13h – En redescendant le colline, moins fatiguant, je prends le temps de regarder autour de moi. Les escaliers sont pris sur tous les côtés par des boutiques où les gens s'y ont installés, pour faire commerce mais aussi pour y vivre. Leurs maisons sont pour la plupart des cabanes faites de bois tressé et de toits en tôle, où toute la famille vit dans 1 petite pièce unique. La pauvreté est visible et ils vivent essentiellement des achats des touristes. Cela m'attriste.
Arrivée en bas, plusieurs pagodes se succèdent. Je commence par la pagode Kyanktawgyi où se trouve un énorme Bouddha en marbre.
Puis, je continue par les pagodes Kuthodax et Sandamuni qui se ressemblent dans leurs structures, même si le 1ere est plus impressionnante, alors que la 2ème incite à la balade, au calme : autour d'un pagode dorée, il y a des stèles blanches qui cachent le canon bouddhique.
14h30 – Juste à coté se trouve le monastère Atumashi Kyaung, gigantesque, mais sans grand intérêt et la maison du roi Midon, qui elle, est magnifique. C'est un vieux monastère qui a été épargné par la 2nd guerre, car déplacé. C'était un des appartements du Palais Royal. Le bâtiment est tout en teck sculpté, avec de nombreuses statuettes et sculptures. Époustouflant.
Je continue par des petites rues tranquilles et arrive sur l'avenue Est qui borde le mur du Palais Royal.
Avant d'entrer dans le parc du palais, petite pause dans un stand pour boire un jus de papaye. Miam :)
17h45 – Le guide du routard abuse : le palais initial certes a été détruit, il n'en reste plus rien, mais sa reconstruction vaut le détour. C'est immense, même si la reconstruction n'est identique à l'original que pour certains édifices, l'ensemble est très joli, au milieu de la verdure.
On a une vue imprenable depuis la tour de guet, mais j'ai été prise d'un léger vertige.
Fatiguée, je prends un taxi/scooter pour aller jusqu'à la gare pour acheter mon billet pour Hsipaw. Le guichetier d'aujourd'hui me dit que je ne peux acheter mon billet qu'un jour à l'avance !!! Grrrr, Celui d'hier m'avait affirmé que je pourrais aujourd'hui ?!
J rentre à pied à l'hôtel mais la circulation de cette zone que les locaux appelle Downtown est vraiment trop dense. C'est suffocant, pollué, stressant. Loin de la tranquillité du quartier nord-est de la gare où j'étais ce matin.
Cela ne me donne pas envie de flâner, même lorsque je passe devant le building qui remplace l'ancien bazar appelé ZaychoMarket. Certes, voir les gens acheter les tissus et autres marchandises doit être intéressant, mais le brouhaha des véhicules, l'état semi d'alerte perpétuel pour ne pas se faire écraser ne me donne pas envie de m'attarder.
Je négocie avec mon hôtel pour une moto avec chauffeur pour demain toute la journée pour 15 000ks. Nous irons chercher mon fameux billet de train, puis ensuite visite de Amarapura et Inwa, situés à 13 et 26km au sud de Mandalay, puis retour à Mandalay en passant par la pagode Mahamuni. Beau programme en perspective.
19h – Je suis allée manger dans un excellent endroit le « Golden Shan » : un hangar-cantine tenu par des filles supers gentilles, dont 1 qui parle super bien anglais.
Pleins de plats au choix, on se sert soit même et à volonté. Cette fois-ci, j'avais un choix énorme de plats non épicés, accompagnés de riz, d'une soupe et de 2 bananes. Avec 1 jus d'orange frais en supplément, j'en ai eu pour 4000ks, soit un peu plus de 2€. J'y retournerai demain soir, c'est sûr...en plus à 200m de l'hôtel.
11/01/2016 – 15h15 – Longue journée, magnifique, qui n'est pas encore terminée.
Mon chauffeur de scooter est un jeune homme qui parle un tant soit peu anglais, et du coup, çà facilite les choses. Tout d'abord, passage par la gare, et enfin, j'ai mon billet de train … pour la modique somme de 4000ks.
Puis, nous sommes partis pour Anarapura. La 1ère visite m'a laissée perplexe, mal à l'aise. Je suis allée au monastère Mahagandhayon. C'est en fait une sorte d'orphelinat où les élèves sont puis en charge par des moines.
A 10h15, les enfants prennent leur dernier repas. Jusque là, tout va bien. Le problème est qu'une masse de touristes s'entasse autour du chemin où 1000 moines se suivent pour aller prendre leur repas.
On se croirait au zoo, les gens ne respectent pas et prennent pleins de photos, sourire à côté d'un moine stoïque, empêche la marche des moines. Je n'étais pas à l'aise, j'ai pris quelques photos discrètement, mais avec honte. Je suis ressortie avec un sentiment de mal être extrême.
Le pont U Bein se trouve juste à coté. C'est un vieux pont en teck de 1200m de long. J'ai du attendre ½ heure avant d'apprécier le lieu, trop encore prise par mes ressentiments. L'endroit est très beau, le lac avec ses pêcheurs, ses promeneurs Birmans, sous un fond ensoleillé, donne un moment de paix et j'ai réussi à retrouver ma sérénité. Je profite de l'endroit, tranquillement. A l'autre bout du pont je passe par la Pagode Kuanktawgyi, puis retourne vers le pont par des petites ruelles au bord du lac.
Une dizaine de km plus loin, j'arrive devant un petit débarcadère où des bacs nous attendent pour traverser et aller sur l'île Inwa. Ici, tout est calme, les fermiers travaillent dans les champs avec leurs buffles. Je commence à marcher à pied, mais je rencontre 2 italiens qui ont loués une carriole avec cheval. Je leur demande si je peux me joindre à eux, et du coup cela me coûtera que 5000ks. La balade dans la campagne, avec arrêt d'un site à l'autre, au milieu des rizières est vraiment super. Loin du tumulte des voitures et scooters, seules les carrioles se croisent et se retrouvent devant les monastères. 2h de bonheur. Retour à l'embarcadère d'où j'écris ces quelques mots en attendant le bateau.
17h – Au retour, je visite la pagode Mahamuni. Elle est énorme, clinquante, brillante, très kitsch. Il s'y trouve un bouddha tout en or, où les hommes peuvent aller y déposer une feuille d'or. Le corps ressemble donc à un gros ballon d'or.
Ma journée se termine ? Je quitte Mandalay cette nuit, avec mon chauffeur de scooter qui m’emmènera à la gare. Cette journée était vraiment agréable.
J'ai remarqué que plus on s'éloigne de la ville, plus les maisons sont en bambou tressé avec toit de tôle. Certaines sont très petites, comme les cabanes qui jonchent l'escalier qui monte la colline de Mandalay, mais d'autres, j'imagine en fonction de la richesse des habitants, sont plus spacieuses et très belles, voire magnifiques pour certaines.
12/01/16 – 6h – réveillez à 3h du matin. Courte nuit de 4h, j'ai eu du mal à m'endormir.
Arrivée à la gare, nous sommes plusieurs étrangers à nous rendre à Thipaw. Malheureusement on apprend très vite que le train a du retard et ne partira qu'à 8h du matin !!
Nous sommes tous dégoûtés, désappointés. Le retard, nous nous y attendions, mais 4h !! On aurait pu se lever à 6h30/7h, tranquillement.
Je fais la connaissance de 2 anglais d'une cinquantaine d'années. Nous allons prendre un café avec un beignet dans un petit bouge à coté de la gare.
Toute le monde fume là dedans, l'une des anglaises aussi...Dégoûtée, les yeux dans le coltard, je craque et m'achète un paquet :(
Nous retournons à la gare car avons peur que finalement, qui sait, le train n'arrive pas plus tôt.
En attendant, on rentre dans un wagon, sur le quai voisin, pour se protéger des courants d'air. Nous espérons seulement que le passage du fameux pont suspendu ne se fera pas trop tard dans le noir, car c'est le moment le plus magique du trajet de ce train.
12h – Le train démarre...on désespérait de le voir...8h de retard... au final, un moment assez drôle car nous étions une quinzaine de touristes regroupés comme des loques au soleil sur le quai.
14h30 – Le train roule très doucement, 20 km/h je pense et ballotte de gauche à droite. Sortis de Mandalay, nous passons au milieu des villages.
Puis, une première montagne.
Le train monte par « crans ». Difficile à expliquer. Il grimpe, puis redescend un peu pour changer de rail et monter à nouveau...ainsi de suite. Maintenant, nous sommes sur un plateau verdoyant que nous finissons de traverser avant d'entamer la prochaine montée.
Dans le petit groupe de touristes que nous sommes, certains ne pensent qu'à s'approvisionner en bière dès que le train s'arrête en gare. Surtout 2 filles. Sympa, mais qui commencent à être bien éméchées. Je n'aime pas cette ambiance, trop de mauvais souvenirs. Quant à moi, je regrette bien d'avoir acheté ce paquet de cigarettes. Je viens de le finir et j'ai la gorge en feu. Dieu me punit, me voilà patchée à nouveau.
20H – Nous venons tout juste de passer sur le fameux pont...nuit noire. Heureusement, tout le monde en rigolait. Même dans le noir, la sensation du vide était bien là.
La charpente métallique s'en allait dans les profondeurs … une sensation étrange. Moi qui ai le vertige, je crois que j'aurai eu très peur en plein jour, même si cela aurait été magnifique et impressionnant.
Ce viaduc enjambe tout de même une gorge de 270 mètres de profondeur.
22h45 - Je ne sais pas dans quelle galère je me suis mise. Il fait un froid de canard dans le train. Et à priori, dehors, ce n'est pas mieux.
Je suis crevée, levée depuis 3h du matin, je me demande ce que je fous là. Les autres aussi j'imagine, car plus personne ne parle.
13/01/16 – 0h30 – Arrivée à l'hôtel, la chambre est froide, que 2 couvertures rikiki, pas d'eau chaude. Ils avaient prévenu dans le routard qu'il faisait « frais en montagne. Il faudrait plutôt dire glacial !! :(
9h32 – C'est de pire en pire. Après une nuit toute habillée pour avoir un peu de chaleur, réveillée à 6h30 car ma fenêtre donne sur le restaurant où tout le monde prend son petit déjeuner ! Réveil aux aurores par les trekkeurs ! Et moi avec :(
Dégoûtée, je mets le nez dehors … il fait très froid.
Je décide de ne pas rester ici une nuit de plus, réserve mon bus et mon hôtel pour le Lac Inle.
Malheureusement, il n'y a que des bus de nuit. Je suis contrainte de passer encore une nuit blanche.
Et au petit déj' des gens avec qui j'étais hier m'annoncent qu'il fait aussi froid au lac. Je n'ai qu'un pull.
15h20 – impossible de dormir. Finalement, je me décide à suivre 5 personnes avec qui j'étais hier.
Nous partons pour un trek dans la campagne, au milieu des plantations de riz et des villages jusqu'à une jolie chute d'eau. Mes compagnons continuent eux jusqu'à des sources chaudes. Pour ma part, je rebrousse chemin car l'aller-retour me prend 3h30 et je dois prendre mon bus à 16h.
Maintenant que la brume est dissipée, il fait très chaud. On avoisine les 30°C alors que la nuit il fait à peine 5°C.
Je me sens un peu mieux, et je regrette presque de ne pas rester une journée de plus. J'aurai dû simplement demander à changer de chambre. La fatigue, le mal de gorge, les péripéties d'hier, le froid ont eu raison de mon humeur.
Pour autant, je cumule la malchance : en arrivant à l'hôtel, on m'explique qu'ils ont oublié mon ticket de bus … mais tout va bien, on me le donnera directement à la station de bus, je ne dois pas m'inquiéter, ma place est réserver...on verra bien si la chance va me revenir.
14/01/2016 – 14h15 – La nuit dans le bus a été difficile, La clim' à fond, on était tous gelés. Lâchés au milieu de la route à 4h du matin, 2 camionnettes taxi nous attendent pour nous emmener à nos hôtels respectifs. Tout cela prend du temps. Trop de bagages, trop de monde, difficile à mettre tout çà dans leurs scooters camionnettes. Encore le froid, pire même, durant 1 bonne heure pour faire les 20 km qui nous séparent de la ville de Nyaugshwe, puis ensuite nous déposer aux hôtels.
Finalement, à 5h30, j'arrive au mien, qui est vraiment sympa.
On m'offre une chambre en attendant que la mienne soit prête et je prends un petit déj'. Je me sens mieux.
15h30 – Je suis tombée sur un couple de français dans l'hôtel qui vont faire le tour de bateau avec moi demain.
15/01/2016 – 17h45 – Enfin une bonne et belle journée. L'excursion en bateau était super sympa. Nous sommes partis, le couple de français et moi, pour la journée, sur le lac Inle. De 8h à 16h, super balade sur les eaux du lac, dans les canaux, à la découverte de la minorité Intha, peuple qui vit sur ce lac : villages sur pilotis, jardins flottants, pagodes, écoles, pêcheurs, marchés. Le lac est grouillant de vie. Nous sommes tout d'abord allés sur le marche de Nan Pan, puis nous avons poussé par un canal calme et très joli jusqu'à In Dein. Là, une petite grimpette d'environ ½ heure à pied jusqu'au monastère. Une vie magnifique sur le lac et ses montagnes environnantes.
Nous sommes repartis vers le nord, en passant par le monastère de Nga Phe Chaung, tout en teck et très bel intérieur. Enfin, nous sommes passés par les jardins flottants. Incroyable : tout y pousse, et les birmans, sur leurs pirogues, cultivent et récoltent leurs légumes et fleurs qui poussent au milieu du lac. Retour tranquillement avec une vue magnifique et dégagée sur les montagnes. Le lac Inle est vraiment un endroit paisible où l'on se sent bien.
J'allais oublier : on a eu le droit à la visite d'ateliers de tissage de la soie et de la fibre de lotus, de la fabrique de pirogues et de cigares. Intéressant en soit, sauf que je suis toujours gênée car on a le droit dès notre arrivée à l'explication par une jeune femme...suivi de la boutique. Je n'achète rien et donc me sens toujours mal à l'aise et triste pour ces jeunes filles qui vivent de la commission de leurs ventes. J. et S. ressentent le même chose que moi.
Nous avons programmé pour demain une balade à vélo que nous a indiqué notre hôtel.
Çà à l'air de faire environ 20km.
16/01/2016 – 16h40 – Encore une superbe journée. Je me sens tellement mieux. J'ai retrouvé le moral. Je remercie S. et J.. Ils ont été de supers potes pendant ces 2 jours.
Aujourd'hui, avec nos vélos, nous avons fait une balade autour du lac, en passant par un village spécialisé dans la fabrication du Tofu. Ce village est vraiment sympa et paisible.
De là, nous avons embarqué avec nos vélos sur une pirogue pour traverser le lac d'ouest en est et nous accostons à Maug Thawk, petit village avec un pont en teck de 500 mètres. Nous avons repris la route au nord jusqu'au vignoble Red Mountain Estate, où un viticulteur français y a planté 75ha de vignes. La vue depuis le restaurant sur la montagne, les vignes, le lac est splendide. Petit verre de vin blanc, petit plat de riz et légumes...un moment super agréable.
Puis retour à Nyaugshwe. Je garde mon vélo pour demain. Je compte me promener tranquillement au monastère Shwe Yan Pyay et sur le canal. S. et J. partent ce soir sur Bagan...Peut-être les retrouverais-je là-bas pour 1 ou 2 jours. Ils ont l'air de vouloir aller dans le même hôtel que moi. En tout les cas, grâce à eux, j'ai retrouvé le moral, et çà, çà n'a pas de prix :)
17/01/2016 – 16h – Encore une belle journée. Depuis 9h ce matin, balade à vélo dans les villages alentours, au gré des chemins. J'aime vraiment cet endroit. Je suis passée aussi par le monastère Shwe Yan Pyay, tout en bois et dont la particularité est les fenêtres qui sont ovales. Vraiment une très agréable journée.
J'ai réussi, avec beaucoup de patience et de temps, à me réserver un vol Bagan-Yangon. Il me reste à réserver l'hôtel où je veux aller à Ngwé Saung. Pour le bus Yangon-Ngwé Saung, je crois que je prendrais directement le ticket à la station de bus. Mon séjour est à peu près organisé.
Je commence à mieux comprendre l'état d'esprit des birmans, même si c'est souvent exaspérant. Depuis trop longtemps sous la joute de la dictature pour eux l'organisation, la notion de temps n'ont aucune consonance. Ils essayent pour certains de faire au mieux, même maladroitement Pour d'autres, ils sont mal aimables et ne voient en la manne touristique qu'une façon de gagner beaucoup d'argent, facilement.
La Birmanie s'ouvre petit à petit au monde, n'a aucune idée des attentes des touristes et des standards des pays voisins. Avec l’afflux touristique de ces dernières années, c'est très complexe comme situation, et plus ou moins bien géré par les locaux. Il faut prendre son mal en patience, apprendre à être tolérant, ne pas s'énerver...Tout ce que je n'ai pas su faire durant les jours difficiles que j'ai connu entre le train pour Thipaw et mon arrivée au lac Inle.
18/01/2016 – 11h – Voilà, j'ai quitté le lac Inle avec une petite tristesse. D'abord pour le lieu, que j'ai aimé, mais aussi pour la patronne de l'hôtel, qui parle un excellent français et qui est adorable. Grande accolade … et elle a même eu une petite larme. Cette femme est vraiment une perle.
Pour la petite info, le mini bus devait partir à 8h30 … nous avons quitté l'hôtel à 10h. Je suis la seule touriste. Que des birmans dans le bus. D'ailleurs, certains ont préféré s'installer sur le toit du bus, avec les bagages :)
En discutant avec une française arrivée le matin même à l'hôtel, je me mets à hésiter sur la suite de mon voyage après Bagan : la plage ou bien le sud de la Birmanie. Elle en vient et me dit que c'est magnifique. Je vais y réfléchir.
14h – La route est splendide. Nous avons traversé la montagne, sur une route sinueuse. Les petits villages s’amoncellent tout le long de la route. Des monastères sont érigés dans des endroits improbables, tout en haut des cimes.
La poussière est toujours là, on représente, soulevée par les camions et les voitures. Je me suis rendue compte que la plupart des touristes toussaient. Je pense que les différences de température entre le jour et la nuit y sont pour beaucoup, mais aussi cette poussière perpétuelle.
Nous sommes maintenant arrivés dans la plaine, aride, brûlante. Il va faire chaud, très chaud à Bagan.
15h30 – Le paysage change à nouveau. Malgré la sécheresse de la terre, ici, c'est plus boisé et verdoyant. Le paysage est très beau. Nous ne sommes pas loin de Bagan maintenant.
17h – Et bien non, on n'est toujours pas à Bagan. Ici, il ne faut pas se référer aux kilomètres ...mais au temps. La route est longue. Petit arrête dans une ville. La poussière est partout. Et là, je me dis, c'est clair, c'est la poussière qui me donne cette toux infernale. Déjà qu'en Jordanie la poussière me fait beaucoup tousser. Ici, c'est des nuages de poussière perpétuels.
20h30 – La dernière portion de route était elle aussi très jolie. Ici, c'est la campagne birmane : sable au bord des routes, petits villages, fermiers, enfants qui se baladent, palmiers, buffles, vaches, cochons, champs. C'est très paisible.
A part la poussière du sable ;)
Arrivée à l'hôtel, je suis ravie : il est magnifique. Belle chambre, cadre exotique, piscine.
Je pars manger et je rencontre une autrichienne qui cherche un hôtel. Je lui indique le mien et nous faisons connaissance. Elle s'appelle M.. Demain, nous allons commencer à explorer une petite partie du site à vélo ensemble. Je suis ravie de l'avoir rencontrée.
Puis, je croise à l'hôtel J. et S.. Nous papotons ensemble et sommes contents de nous revoir. Ils on fait aujourd'hui la balade à vélo que je compte faire demain avec M.. Eux demain, ils vont explorer plus loin avec un scooter. Ils sont là encore 2 jours. Je les reverrai. Vraiment, je suis heureuse. Mon voyage depuis le lac Inle se passe à merveille. J'ai enfin réussi à m'adapter et je vis pleinement mon séjour. C'est super.
D'ailleurs, je suis contente d'avoir pris un minibus de jour : tout d'abord, j'étais qu'avec des locaux, ensuite j'ai pu savourer le paysage et enfin, le bus m'a déposé à mon hôtel. Au final, j'ai payé 1000ks de plus, mais j'en ai gagné au moins 5000 sur le taxi qui m'aurait amené jusqu'ici.
Vivement demain pour explorer Bagan. J'ai hâte :)
19/01/2016 – 17h – Depuis 9h du matin jusqu'à 15h, M. et moi avons exploré le site gigantesque de Bagan sur un petit quart seulement. A vélo, cela se fait assez facilement, même dans le sable. Par contre, à partir de midi, le soleil cogne et il devient difficile d'avancer sans cramer sur place.
A part cela, que dire : magnifique, incroyable, comme dans mes rêves. Les pagodes et les monastères principaux sont majestueux, mais les petits temples et autres monuments sont tout aussi beaux. Tout cela dans un cadre idyllique : la campagne birmane, avec au milieu des stupas des paysans et leurs troupeaux. J'adore.
Crevée, je rentre à l'hôtel pour me reposer et réserver une folie pour mes nuits au bord de la plage....mais, je veux apprécier mon séjour jusqu'au bout, alors, tant pis, on fera les comptes plus tard.
20/01/2016 – 14h – Nuit courte et difficile. J'ai toussé comme une dingue toute la nuit. J'avais l'impression de cracher la poussière à longueur de temps.
Du coup, réveiller à 6h, je me décide pour profiter de la fraîcheur du matin pour explorer une autre partie du site gigantesque de Bagan. Et je ne suis pas déçue. Le levé du soleil, la brume matinale rendent les monuments féeriques. Je trouve une pagode où l'on peut grimper. J'ai le vertige. C'est haut et les escaliers sont abrupts. Je grimpe aux 2/3, mais la vue est déjà suffisante. C'est un spectacle magnifique. Je reste là un bon moment, à admirer, sereine. Je n'oublierai jamais.
Puis, je continue mon chemin vers Old Bagan jusqu'à Nyaung Oo. Je prends des chemins de sable, mais certains sont vraiment très difficile avec l'e-bike qui s'enfonce dans le sable. Tout autour, des champs, des stupas, des petites pagodes. La campagne de Bagan est vraiment très belle et il est agréable de se perdre au milieu des chemins. Par contre, c'est usant, car il faut utiliser les pieds pour maintenir l'e-bike sur la piste, pousser parfois, slalomer entre les traces.....qui plus est que la selle n'est vraiment pas confortable. Mais çà se conduit très facilement.
Crevée, je repars vers Old Bagan m'arrête pour manger dans une échoppe sur le marché et continue ma route jusqu'au village de Myin Kaba où l'on trouve des artisans spécialisés dans la laque. Je visite l'une des fabriques où l'on m'explique la méthode de fabrication. C'est incroyable le temps et la minutie qu'il faut. J'achète un petit souvenir et repars à l'hôtel à New Bagan.
Si j'en ai le courage, ce soir, j'irai voir le coucher du soleil depuis les hauteurs d'une pagode.
Pour l'instant, besoin d'une bonne douche car je suis totalement recouverte d'une couche de poussière qui colle à la peau avec la chaleur. Beurk !!!
19h08 – Le coucher du soleil était magique. Je ne suis pas restée jusqu'au bout car j'avais peur de rentrer dans le noir avec l'e-bike, mais aussi parce qu'un groupe de 5 français est arrivé en parlant très fort et ils gâchaient la magie de l'instant. Nous étions plusieurs à être agacés. Surtout que nous avions choisi cette petite pagode pour sa tranquillité.
Le retour sur les 4km qui me séparaient de l’hôtel a été épique ! J'avais demandé à ce qu'ils rechargent la batterie de l'e-bike. A priori, ils ne l'ont pas fait. Très vite, il a donné des signes de fatigue. J'ai alors coupé le moteur dès que çà descendait. Mais sur le dernier km, la machine ne voulait plus rien savoir. Je devais éteindre, rallumer 5 secondes, éteindre...j'avançais moins vite qu'à pied, mais pousser cette machine est un enfer. J'espère que demain, je n'aurai pas ce genre de mésaventure.
21/1/2016 – 12h45 – Bonne nuit de sommeil. Je n'ai pas toussé, à ma grande surprise, après la journée de poussière d'hier. Réveillée vers 7h par les personnes qui font le ménage dans les chambres voisines, je me décide à partir de bonne heure pour éviter la chaleur. Je me rends vite compte qu'aujourd'hui le ciel restera ombrageux, mais ce n'est pas plus mal. D'ailleurs, je suis contente d'avoir démarré de bonne heure, car plus les heures avancent, plus les touristes en taxi et bus arrivent. J'ai pu profiter une bonne partie de la matinée sans grand monde. Aujourd'hui, j'ai exploré l'Est du site. Cette partie est très campagnarde, avec des petits villages au milieu des temps, pagodes et monastères. C'est vraiment beau, serein et agréable.
Je rentre assez tôt et m’attelle au grand lavage de mes vêtements qui m'ont suivi durant ces 3 jours de poussière. Cette après-midi, farniente, sieste, lecture. Demain matin, réveil à 5h15 pour l'aéroport. Je viens de me rendre compte que mon vol fait une escale à Heho, aéroport du lac Inle !! Bon, j'en ai pour 2h de vol pour arriver à Yangon...on verra. Ensuite, il faut que j'aille à la station de bus pour trouver un bus qui m’emmènera jusqu'à Ngwe Saung...Playa pour 3 jours :)
18h – Tout est compliqué ici. Je regardai les horaires des bus pour me rendre à Ngwe Saung...et là, bordel. Tôt le matin (pas possible vu mon arrivée à 10h40 à Yangon) ou peut-être 20h le soir. Quant à la station de bus, çà dépend de la compagnie. Je me renseigne à mon hôtel, mais elle n'arrive pas vraiment à m'aider. A force de recherches, au bout de 2h d'internet, je vois que j'ai la possibilité de passer par Pathein, avec plus de bus dans la journée puis ensuite minibus ou taxi jusqu'à la plage. Bref, rien de sûr, que du flou.
19h30 – Je passe à la réception pour m'assurer qu'ils ont bien pris en compte ma demande de taxi pour cette nuit à 5h45. Et bien non, ils avaient oublié...malgré que je l'ai demandé hier soir, rappelé ce midi. C'est la Birmanie :)
22/01/2016 – 7h10 – Le taxi était là, même en avance. Arrivée à l’aéroport, je discute avec 2 françaises. Elles ont organisé leur séjour via une agence, ne voyagent que dans des grands hôtels de luxe et n'ont eu aucun problème d'organisation. C'est sûr, en grand luxe et en restant sur les 4 principaux sites à visiter, tout va bien. Mais il ne faut pas essayer de sortir des sentiers battus...quoi que avec voiture et chauffeur privé, çà doit le faire. Malheureusement, elles n'ont pas notion qu'en voyageant ainsi, tout leur argent va directement dans les mains des militaires encore au pouvoir...et à leurs amis. En fait, soit on alimente le parti militaire, soit on se retrouve dans la galère régulièrement car les Birmans ne sont pas du tout organisés.
9h – L'avion est un peu vieux, sale et à hélices :) mais bon, çà va. Par contre, on risque d'arriver plus tard que prévu à Yangon, ce qui ne m'arrange pas, compte tenu que je ne sais toujours pas vraiment comment rejoindre Ngwe Saung.
11h20 – Atterrit à Yangon, on doit attendre directement nos valises qui sont débarquées sur le tarma, devant le terminal. Très vite, je trouve un taxi qui m’emmène à la station du bus de Hlaing Thar Yar. Je négocie avec le chauffeur pour 10 000ks qu'il me dépose jusqu'au bon bus. Il parle bien l'anglais et est très sympa.
Comme prévu, il n'y a plus de bus direct pour Ngwe Saung. Il me trouve un bus pour Pathein et discute avec le chauffeur pour qu'il m'emmène ensuite à la station de minibus pour Ngwe Saung. Pour l'instant, tout se goupille bien et je suis contente.
Pour le peu que j'ai vu de la périphérie de Yangon, c'est vraiment pas beau. J'espère que le centre de la ville est plus beau.
En attendant, me voilà dans 1 bus local, où je suis la seule étrangère. Certains me regardent étonnés, d'autres me sourit, mes voisins me prennent en photo. Il fait une chaleur pas possible, mais heureusement, nous démarrons enfin.
16h10 – Un truc de dingue ! Dans le bus, un homme me fait comprendre qu'il va a Ngwe saung et qu'il y a 1 bus à 16h. Je dois le suivre. Mais en sortant du bus, il me dit de prendre un taxi avec lui, Çà nous coûte chacun 3000ks. Çà ne me paraît pas cher et ne comprends pas tout, mais je le suis. Le problème c'est qu'il m'emmène en ville, à l'endroit où on achète les tickets pour le minibus pour Ngwe Saung. Et là, je comprends que c'est trop tard, le dernier bus partait à 16h. Je dois attendre demain matin. Je demande, explique que j'ai une réservation d'hôtel....au final, le gars des tickets appelle le chauffeur du minibus et me demande de monter derrière un scooter qui va m'amener au bus. Ce que je n'avais pas saisi, mais que je vais vite comprendre, c'est que le scooter s'engage dans une course effrénée pour rattraper le bus qui est déjà en route. 15mn plus tard, nous le rattrapons et je monte dedans. La course en scooter aura été gratuite. Le minibus me coûte 4000Ks. Au final, je m'en sors bien. Ce matin, je ne savais pas si j'y arriverai.
La route en plus est très belle. Nous avons traversé des rizières, des champs, des villages et des bois. Maintenant, depuis Pathein, la route devient magnifique. Le paysage change : plus vallonné, on traverse une magnifique jungle jusqu'à l'arrivée au village.
19h – çà valait vraiment le coup toute cette route et l'argent claqué dans cet hôtel. Je suis au paradis. Chambre magnifique, hôtel au milieu des palmiers avec bungalows et piscine. Accès à la plage directe depuis l'hôtel. Repos et farniente pour 3 jours.
J'ai déjà réservé mon billet de bus pour le 26 au matin. Cette fois-ci, un direct jusqu'à Yangon, départ à 10h du matin.
Nota : sur toutes les routes de Birmanie, il y a des péages. Je trouve çà incroyable que le gouvernement taxe les routes alors qu'elles sont dans un état pitoyable. Partout où il peut, le gouvernement se met de l'argent dans les poches. Aung san sung she a vraiment du travail à faire...
23/01/2016 – 13h30 – GLANDOUILLE, , , Ce matin, réveil tranquille, petit déjeuner gargantuesque, transat sur la plage, petit bain de mer, balade jusqu'au village par la plage, retour en moto-taxi, piscine. Çà fait du bien de se reposer, rester tranquille.
14h30 – C'est le week-end. Dans l'hôtel, il y a des touristes, mais aussi des birmans. Trois d'entre eux, des jeunes hommes bien graisseux, se la jouent alcool, musique sur le téléphone au bord de la piscine, en se donnant des airs de « wech-wech ». quand je suis arrivée à la piscine, leurs bières et mégots de cigarettes trônaient sur le rebord de la piscine. Quand on pense à ce peuple entier qui n'a rien et s'ouvre seulement depuis peu au monde extérieur...
17h15 – Partout des birmans qui sont venus en famille pour le week-end : sur les pelouses de l'hôtel, à la piscine, sur la plage et dans la mer...bouteilles de whisky et plastiques qui traînent partout. Ils sont arrivés en bus, loués pour des familles entières. Ils me surprennent, face à la discrétion et la gentillesse du peuple birman.
19h – Le coucher du soleil. Un moment magique. Les scooters rentrent chez eux, les vendeuses de nourriture en tout genre aussi.
La plage fourmille du matin au soir : vendeuse de jus de noix de coco, puis brochettes de poisson les motos taxi, les chevaux. Et le soir, c'est les vendeurs de feux d'artifice qui arrivent. Tout cela avec le soleil qui décline, j'adore.
Puis, je sors de l’hôtel pour aller manger dans un des petits restos qui se trouvent sur la route. Personne ne parle anglais, aucun touriste, je demande « no spicy », mime le geste. Ils finissent par comprendre et me laisse goûter les sauces huileuses des plats pour que je choisisse. On a bien rigolé. Pour 2000ks (3x moins cher qu'à l’hôtel), excellent repars fait de port, riz et épinards. Et je suis contente, car cette fois-ci, mon argent profite aux locaux, qui plus est, adorables personnes. J'irai manger sur cette route les 2 prochains soir...et si besoin, de quoi que ce soit, il y a aussi des petites échoppes qui vendent de tout.
24/01/2016 – 16h30 – j'ai fait la connaissance de 2 allemandes de mon âge hier. Nous avons passé plusieurs moments ensemble. Elles sont très sympa. L'une d'entre elle rêve de venir à Chartres. Je me suis proposée de l'accueillir. Nous repartons dans le même bus pour Yangon mardi matin.
Ce matin, balade sur la plage. En partant du côté opposé au village, on tombe sur 2 rochers plantés dans le sable, avec 2 mini pagodes sur leur sommet. Plutôt original. Aujourd'hui, les birmans sont calmes. Ils doivent sûrement se remettre de leurs beuveries de la veille :) En fait, ils sont comme des enfants. Je pense que ceux sont les nouveaux riches qui ont émergés ces dernières années grâce à l'ouverture du pays. Ils savourent leur nouvelle liberté dans tous les excès. Ce qui me paraît compréhensible après tant de dictature.
Par contre, aujourd'hui, au bord de la piscine, 4 jeunes chinois se tenaient très mal. Touristes, expats ? Je pencherai pour expats vu leur façon d'agir. Cigarettes par terre, crachats...mais pire, ils jettent leur nourriture, déchets, papiers sous la table. Un tas de détritus que la pauvre serveurs doit ramasser à la main. Ils traitent le personnel pire que des chiens. J'étais à 2 doigts de leur dire ce que je pensais. Une honte !
25/01/2016 – 18h – Dernière journée sur la plage. Endormie à 1h du mat, réveillée à 6h, petite forme ce matin. Mon estomac continue à me faire tourner en bourrique.
Je me suis offert un massage pour 15 dollars. 1h30 je pensais me faire cajoler...et bien, ce n'est pas tout à fait çà. Le « body massage » consiste en un massage plutôt bien costaud. La masseuse birmane se sert de ses mains, mais aussi de ses coudes, genoux et pieds. J'ai du lui demander d'y aller mollo car elle me faisait super mal aux jambes. Malgré cela, j'ai eu plusieurs fois assez mal. Mais certaines de ses manipulations étaient vraiment agréables. Et au final, c'est vrai que 2h plus tard, mon corps est super détendu.
Demain, départ pour Yangon où j'y passerai mes 3 derniers jours.
Nota : définitivement, les birmans et moi n’arrivons pas à nous comprendre en anglais. Nos accents respectifs sont incompréhensible l'un pour l'autre.
Nota 2 : les birmans en week-end sont tous repartis ce matin. Tous les bungalows sont vides, nous sommes 3 chambres de touristes à être restés et 1 autre couple est arrivé dans l'après-midi. L'hôtel est d'un calme, la plage aussi. Je regrette un peu l'ambiance bon enfant des birmans. Seule joie : les chinois aussi sont partis, et ceux-là, je ne les regrette vraiment pas.
19h45 – Au restaurant, un allemand est arrivé avec son vélo et a commencé la conversation avec moi. Il est architecte et travaille pour une ONG. Il me montre les photos du collège qu'ils ont construit pas loin d'ici ainsi que le projet d'école qu'ils ont. C'est dommage que je parte demain car sinon il m'aurait fait visiter le collège. Nous avons eu une conversation très intéressante sur l'ouverture du pays et son devenir.
26/1/2016 – 9h30 – Voilà, mon séjour au bord de la plage se termine. Après une bonne nuit de sommeil, je me sens malgré tout totalement crevée. Mes soucis intestinaux qui ne me lâchent pas depuis 2 semaines, maintenant les nausées à chaque repas, malgré les médicaments, çà ne passe pas. Je suis KO.
26/1/2016 – 19h – Journée longue. Je n'avais aucune énergie ce matin. Trop fatiguée par mes problèmes de transit. Nous avons passé la journée sur la route. Quelques 150km en 7h ! en fait il ne faut pas mesurer la distance, çà n'apporte aucune idée du temps du trajet.
Aujourd'hui le temps est très ombrageux, et apparemment plus on avance dans les terres, plus en se rend compte que la pluie est passée par là.
Du coup, le paysage à l'aller qui me paraissait si beau avait pris un tout autre aspect. Que les rayons du soleil peuvent apporter de beauté. Les champs, les rizières étaient toujours aussi beau mais le sombre du ciel apportait une certaine tristesse. Quant aux villages, ils étaient boueux et les déchets et immondices regorgeaient de partout.
L'arrivée dans la périphérie de Yangon est triste. Çà me sert le ventre. Des bidonvilles partout, avec des gens miséreux, installés dans les ordures, sous des petits toits de bambous et tôles, entre la route et les entreprises florissantes et flambant neuf juste derrière. J'ai mal pour eux.
Yangon est une ville très étendue, le trafic infernal...Les immeubles pour beaucoup sont en piteux état, crasseux, moisis. A côté de cela, des buildings tous neufs émergent comme des champignons. Çà me rappelle Cuba... Le charme de La Havane en moins :(
J'ai choisi un hôtel au bord du lac Kandawgyi, pas loin de la gigantesque pagode Schwedagon. Quartier tranquille, loin du trafic, plutôt luxueux.
J'irai voir le quartier fourmillant de « downtown » en journée, mais pas envie d'y rester pour dormir.
NOTA : sur la route, j'ai vu 2 bus qui venaient d'avoir un accident...et notre bus a dû faire peur à un scooter, qui a fini étalé dans le fossé....heureusement doucement. Pas de mal. Mais comme quoi, ici, les routes sont un vrai danger pour tout le monde.
NOTA 2 la chambre sent le renfermé et le moisi. La salle de bain encore plus, car pas de fenêtre. 4 nuits ici, pas génial, mais bon, je ferai avec.
A priori, à part si on y met le prix fort, c'est partout très limite et très cher à Yangon :(
20h30 – J'ai craqué : ma chambre donnait sur les cuisines. Une toute petite cloison, un bruit pas possible. Et je n'imagine même pas le matin ! J'ai demandé une autre chambre. Ils me l'ont accordé, mais elle n'est guère mieux. Merci le routard pour le soit disant « bon plan » !
27/1/2016 – 11h30 – Après une nuit courte, je me sens tout de même un peu mieux dans ma chambre d'hôtel. Çà fera l'affaire, même si ce n'est vraiment pas top. Le petite déj' est bon et le personnel très gentil. De plus, ils sont les 1er que je rencontre qui parlent un anglais compréhensible
A Yangon, la chaleur est moite, humide. Sûrement dû à la pluie d'hier.
Je commence ma balade par la pagode Shwedagon. Cette pagode est la plus belle, la plus grande au monde. C'est vrai qu'elle en jette ! De l'or partout, avec un énorme stûpa central mais aussi tout autour pagodes, temples, cloches, stûpas...un endroit gigantesque.
13h31 – Balade très agréable autour du lac Kandawgyi.
La circulation y est très dense, les immeubles crasseux, les piétons trop nombreux. Çà va être l'horreur. Surtout qu'ici, les passages piétons n’existent e pas et le marcheur est totalement ignoré. C'est super dangereux.
14h43 – retour à l'hôtel. Quand je leur dit qu'il fait chaud et humide aujourd'hui, ils me disent que c'est le temps normal à Yangon...et merde, çà ne changera donc pas les jours suivants.
16h30 – La chaleur et la moiteur sont un peu redescendues. J'essaye de me bousculer et je pars faire une balade autour du lac, pas loin de l’hôtel. Je pense que ce lac va être mon refuge pour les 2 jours qui viennent. Par contre, les moustiques sont toujours là à Yangon. J'ai même l'impression de jour, comme de nuit. Odomos va me secourir, mais malgré tout, ils m'ont déjà piquée aux jambes.
18h – En me baladant autour du lac, je suis tombée sur pleins de petits restos où les birmans viennent manger et boire un verre. Pour 3100ks, 1 petite brochette, 1 patate, du riz et un jus de melon. Pas la panacée, mais moins cher qu'à l'hôtel. Et le cadre est superbe avec le lac juste devant moi.
Retour à l'hôtel. Les moustiques m'attendent déjà. Je n'aime vraiment pas cet endroit. Ils pourraient au moins mettre une moustiquaire et du produit anti-moustiques, comme dans tous les autres hôtels que j'ai fait.
19h – Je réclame une moustiquaire. Ils me disent qu'ils n'en ont pas mais que quelqu'un va venir tuer les moustiques dans ma chambre. J'hallucine ! Je leur fait comprendre que même, si par génie, quelqu'un arrivait à les tuer, sitôt fait, d'autres reviendrons. Ils finissent par me dégoter une moustiquaire...pour 1 lit simple ! J'ai un lit double. Je me retrouve a essayer de bloquer la moustiquaire avec des oreilles. Mon lit ressemble à une cabane, ma chambre à un labyrinthe d'attaches en plastiques pour la moustiquaire. Quant à la douche, brûlante ou gelée, au choix ! Et le cagibi qui me sert de salle de bain/chiotte se transforme en piscine. Pour 45 dollars la nuit, c'est inadmissible, même au Myanmar. Merci le guide du routard. C'est pas cool de donner cette adresse exceptionnelle.
38/1/2016 – 8h – Hier soir, j'ai craqué. Plus possible de rester dans cet hôtel miteux. En plus, je me suis rendue compte qu'il y avait des puces dans le lit, et je me suis fait mangée au final non pas par les moustiques, mais par les puces.
Repartie pour réserver 1 autre hôtel. Pour le même prix, hôtel apparemment de standing, à coté de l'aéroport. Je réserve mes 2 prochaines et dernières nuits. Je demande à l'hôtel de me rembourser, mais ils refusent. La patronne pour une fois fait son apparition et je sens son énervement. Elle me révulse : elle n'est là que pour ramasser le pognon...un gros paquet de pognon pour un hôtel miteux.
Je fais une réclamation auprès d'Agoda et envoie des photos. Impossible de m'endormir. Petite nuit : 1h du mat – 6h30 du mat. Je me fous un grand coup de pied pour tout de même me bouger et aller visiter downtown ce matin, avant de partir ensuite dans l'hôtel près de l'aéroport et m'y reposer demain.
10h – En route pour mon nouvel hôtel. Je me suis traînée jusqu'à downtown ce matin, mais décidément, à part la pagode Shwedagon et le lac Kanwawgyi, il n'y a rien à voir, de mon point de vue, dans cette ville. Downtown grouille de voitures, ville puante (égouts, pisse, merde, fritures, ...). Les immeubles délabrés se mélangent aux buildings flambants neufs. La pagode Sule n'a rien de bien joli.
Même le marché Bogyoke me laisse indifférente. La chaleur poisseuse commence déjà à me prendre, avec un mélange de pollution, c'est irrespirable et invivable.
Ce pays m'aura vraiment laissée perplexe, avec un léger goût amer. Quand ce n'est pas l'horreur comme à Hsipaw ou Yangon, il y a toujours un petit truc pour vous perturber ? Ebikes défaillants à Bagan, 8h de retard de train, bus gelés, ... Même si des endroits comme Mandalay, Inle, Bagan, Ngwé Saung m'ont paru géniaux, je n'ai pas réussi à m'épanouir pleinement à cause des petits tracas qui s'accumulent. C'est dommage. Je finis ce séjour avec de beaux souvenirs, mais aussi de très mauvais.
4/2/16 – 20h – Après quelques jours de repos chez moi, je suis plus à même de décrire et comprendre la situation en Birmanie. C'est un pays qui sortit de la colonisation c'est retrouvé aux prises d'une dictature monstrueuse. Depuis seulement 3 / 4 ans, les birmans s'ouvrent tout doucement au monde. C'est un grand plongeon pour eux. Ils sont avident de découverte, de connaître, de posséder, de VIVRE. Ils débordent de questions, s'intéressent. Ils ont accès au meilleur et au pire de la mondialisation. Ils prennent tout, sans toutefois savoir le gérer.
Le pays est en vrai KO. Tout est à refaire, à construire : infrastructure, routes, maisons, immeubles, écoles.... Et nous, touristes, au milieu de ce capharnaüm, nous sommes plongés avec les birmans. Ce n'est pas un changement de culture, de mode de vie c'est un plongeon dans un autre monde.
Certains birmans ont déjà compris et profites avidement et pas toujours avec qualité de la manne touristique. D'autres le font avec plus de professionnalisme et de bon sens, avec gentillesse et curiosité. Ce fût un voyage extraordinaire, même si je n'ai pas su me laisser aller dans le tourbillon, même si je suis rentrée usée et malade. Je ne regrette rien et espère le meilleur pour ce pays.
New Bagan :
Kaday Aung Hotel
Hninn Pann St., Hteeminyin Block, Kyansittha Quarter, Bagan, Myanmar
Ngwe Saung :
The Emerald Sea Resort
#19, Ngwe Saung- Sin Ma Road, | Ngwe Saung Beach, Ngwe Saung 11062, Birmanie (Myanmar)
Yangon :
- HOTEL A EVITER : Garden Home B&B
10 Bogyoke Museum Lane | Bahan Township, Yangon (Rangoon), Birmanie (Myanmar)
- Palm Spring Yangon
No.7(F), Mingalar Street, Nant Thar Gone Quarters | Insein Township, Yangon (Rangoon), Birmanie (Myanmar)
Livres de lecture :
Aung San Suu Kyi: le jasmin ou la lune de Thierry Falise
Romans :
Le palais des miroirs de Amitav Ghosh
La mail aimée de Ma Ma Lay
Une histoire birmane de George Orwell
Ah vraiment Peggy comment ils m énervent des fois les "touristes consommateurs" de ce forum. 160 qui ont regardé ton post et pas un pour dire merci avec toute la peine (et le plaisir 😉) que tu t es donné (bon en même temps y en a beaucoup qui n ont pas du tout lire car trop pressé😛!!)
Alors moi je te le dis, merci pour ta sincérité, merci pour tes réflexions pertinentes, merci de nous parler aussi d une réalité moins paradisiaque que celle que l on nous décrit d habitude.
J y serais dans 3 semaines et ça a été un vrai plaisir pour moi de lire ton récit.
Bon un petit regret quand même, que tu n ai pas ajouté les photos au texte pour qu on les voit en grand parce que là j étais frustrée 😉.
Au plaisir
Christelle
Merci solene40 pour ton message.
Je te souhaite un super voyage. Profites un max, essaye de te laisser aller mieux que je n ai su le faire.
Ce pays va tres vite changer, il faut donc se sentir privilégié d y aller maintenant.
Pour les photos .... c est 100 x mieux en vrai ☺
J ai des souvenirs qui resteront a jamais et tu en auras aussi. Bon voyage a toi.
Bonjour Peggy et merci pour ce joli récit (plein de vie) que je découvre avec plaisir.
Je n'en suis qu'au tout début, mais je sens qu'il va vraiment m'intéresser.
Un vrai plaisir en cette période de préparation de mon voyage dans ce pays.
Encore merci et bonne journée.
Jean-Michel.
Bonsoir !
Merci pour ton récit !
Il m'a permis de me rappeler quelques unes de nos étapes de notre voyage de 2014 (Myanmar2014 philetjustine.canalblog.com).
Je l'avais préparé pendant un an environ avec le souci de ne prendre que des guides locaux (quand nous en avions besoin) et de ne se déplacer le plus possible qu'en bus.
Nos avions choisi d'y aller en 2014 car nous avions lu que le pays commençait à s'ouvrir. Quelles belles rencontres nous avons fait ! Je continue depuis, périodiquement, à échanger par mail avec nos deux guides (Hsipaw et Taungoo). Quels messages d'espoir j'ai reçu quand je les ai félicités pour le résultat des élections de décembre !
Et Bagan au lever du soleil ! Certes il faut se lever très tôt... mais quelle émotion, seul sur le toit du vieille maison repérée la veille ! Le coucher de lune sur le fleuve le lever de soleil sur le site, l'envol des montgolfières.... C'est sans aucun doute un de mes plus beau moment d'émotion sur un site !
Et quelles émotions aussi dans la salle de classe (visite inopinée) dans un village Karen !
Très beau voyage !
Et merci de me l'avoir fait revivre ! (nous le trajet Mandalay / Hsipaw, nous l'avions fait en bus (cf mon carnet de voyage)...
Merci pour ce superbe récit , il m est très utile. Moi je part en avril par contre malheureusement j arrive directement par Rangoon ensuite je monte vers Madalay Bagan le lac Inlé et ensuite j aimerai aller au bord de mer. Du coup je suis obligée de redescendre j hésite entre Ngapali et Ngwe saung. As tu eu des avis sur Ngapali? Peux tu me dire combien tu as payé ton Mandalay Rangoon en avion car j essaye d ici et j ai du mal à trouver les tarifs ainsi que les horaires d avion. Merci pour ton aide.
Je viens par hasard de découvrir ton post, car je suis en pleine réflexion et recherche pour un futur voyage été 2017 vers l'Asie où nous n'avons jamais mis les pieds (d'ailleurs on n'a pas vraiment mis les pieds dans beaucoup d'endroits !...)
Merci pour tes écrits et ton retour d'expérience.
Mais là pour le coup, voulant partir avec un ado de 14 ans je n'imagine pas un tel voyage, ayant besoin dans ma tête de tout "sécuriser" au vu de sa présence (eh oui ! n'ayant pas eu l'habitude de "barouder" ainsi, je n'ose pas ce genre de voyage (craintive ?!...).
Toutefois j'aime notre "liberté" et ne pourrais pas non plus nous contraindre à voyager "en voyage organisé"
Alors la Birmanie, pas une destination pour organiser son voyage seul si on n'est pas baroudeur ?
Merci pour avoir pris le temps de raconter et décrire ton voyage.
Muriel
Merci pour ce superbe récit , il m est très utile. Moi je part en avril par contre malheureusement j arrive directement par Rangoon ensuite je monte vers Madalay Bagan le lac Inlé et ensuite j aimerai aller au bord de mer. Du coup je suis obligée de redescendre j hésite entre Ngapali et Ngwe saung. As tu eu des avis sur Ngapali? Peux tu me dire combien tu as payé ton Mandalay Rangoon en avion car j essaye d ici et j ai du mal à trouver les tarifs ainsi que les horaires d avion. Merci pour ton aide.
je n'ai pas pris d'avion Yangon-Mandalay, j'ai directement pris un vol Bangkok-Mandalay et au retour Yangon-Bangkok. Pour info, le billet Lac inle-Bagan en vol interne m'a couté environ 90 euros. Il faut faire tous les sites des compagnies internes et comparer.
Pour Ngapali, je ne saurai te répondre. pas eu d'avis d'autres personnes.
Alors la Birmanie, pas une destination pour organiser son voyage seul si on n'est pas baroudeur ?
Muriel
Je pense que si, tout dépend comment on l'aborde. je ne m'y suis surement pas prise de la meilleur façon, et je suis arrivée déjà fatiguée, puis malade durant ces 3 semaines, ce qui n'aide pas.
J'ai rencontré beaucoup de personnes qui avaient tout planifié avant de partir, et donc, beaucoup plus facile.
Tout dépend de la période aussi : entre décembre et février, c'est la haute saison.
J'aurai peut-être dû réserver à l'avance et m'éviter de passer des heures sur place (wifi très lent) pour m'organiser.
je pense vraiment que l'on peut faire ce pays, et qu'il est conseillé de le faire sans agence, car ainsi notre argent à plus de chance d'alimenter les locaux plutot que les militaires et leurs amis, même si le pays est en train de changer.
Juste, si c'était à refaire, j'aurai effectué mes réservations d'hôtels à l'avance. Cela donne moins de souplesse au voyage, mais aussi moins de tracas quand on se rend compte que pour le même prix, on peut tomber sur des taudis ou des supers endroits.
Les adresses que j'ai mises en fin de récit peuvent vraiment aider pour avoir des hotels sympas.
Merci pour ta réponse.
C'est vrai que "jeunes" avec mon conjoint, on partait sans résa. (sauf la première nuit) ce qui nous permettait de voyager au "feeling" et sans contrainte de timing et qu'on ne souciait pas de savoir si tout allait être forcément top (on acceptait aussi de pouvoir être déçus...).
Mais avec le "fiston" d'abord on part forcément pendant les vacances scolaires donc périodes en principe plus surchargées au niveau tourisme et là, oui j'ai le soucis que tout soit au maximum "bien" (qu'il ne s'ennuie pas, que ça puisse lui plaire à lui aussi etc etc) car" traîner" un ado qui "tire la tronche" , tout le monde a déjà dû faire plus ou moins l'expérience, ça peut très vite plomber le plaisir du partage.
Eh oui, nos vacances en tant que parents sont aussi très conditionnées et réussies si on a pu voir nos enfants heureux, ça change tout...
Finalement la Birmanie est une destination à réserver que pour nous deux (moi + conjoint), plutôt qu'en famille ? Ou est aussi une destination qui peut s'adapter à des ados et leur plaire ?
Bonjour Muriel.
La Birmanie est-elle une destination pour partir sans guide ? Oui, sans problème mais ça ne serait peut-être pas la première que je choisirais pour un "baptême " de baroudeurs... Le pays démarre son ouverture au monde et les infrastructures sont encore un peu hésitantes....
Pourquoi pas la thailande ou le Vietnam pour une première expérience ? Là-bas, tout est rodé depuis ( trop ? ) longtemps et vous aurez peut-être moins de "galères" ...
Maintenant, sans être une aventure totale, un minimum de préparation peut vous permettre de profiter au maximum sans etre en quête perpétuelle d'un logement ou d'un moyen de transport. Pour ma part, c'est la manière choisie dans mes voyages , en réservant par avance les guesthouses choisies ( ce qui garantit la place dans les meilleures) tout en laissant des "trous" dans le parcours , pour s'adapter aux envies .
Et merci à toi Peggy pour ton récit qui a le mérite de décrire la réalité que tu as vécue 😉
Juste un conseil, une fois t'es photos téléchargées, clique sur " ajouter au texte" , c'est beaucoup plus facile pour nous les voir !
Souhaitant retourner en Birmanie 10 ans après un 1er séjour ou nous avions fait les 3 destinations principales (Rangoon, Bagan, Inle) nous avions fait les transferts en avion car très abordables à l'époque.
Nous nous apercevons au fur et mesure de notre préparation qu'il nous sera impossible de faire correspondre certains endroits par bus, bateau ou avion sans faire des allers et retours incessants et des journées passées dans les transferts.
Il est donc pratiquement obligé de prendre les services d'une agence, mais là le prix de la prestation...!
2150 euros/personne pour 20 jours: chauffeur + voiture (essence, péage, repas chauffeur), hôtels (2 et 3*)+ petit déj, vols intérieurs + taxe, train, bateau.
Cela nous parait "cher" mais les destinations choisies sont opposées les unes des autres : Mandalay et sa région, Mrauk U, Inné, Nagpali, Hpa Han donc beaucoup de transfert et route.
Bruno, tu as eu la réponse adéquate. Il est vrai que la Birmanie n'est pas le pays le plus facile à faire, surtout si rien n'a été réservé à l'avance.
Les pays autours sont bien plus faciles pour voyager en routard si l'on ne veut pas réserver, ou seulement un minimum. Ils sont effectivement déjà bien rodés.
Allez, et je continue à retourner la tête :
J'ai eu quatre ados à la maison, maintenant de jeunes adultes, et je les aurais plus facilement emmenés en thailande qu'en Birmanie : plus jeune, plus fun, plus de mouv.... Patong ou NGapali, pour un ado, pas photo !! 😉
Merci de ton retour.
Oui évidemment ta réflexion semble évidente et sensée face à mes incertitudes.
Et pourtant !...Si je continue à me retourner la tête pour reprendre ton expression ( plutôt juste) c'est que je suis aussi très attirée par le fait que c'est un pays qui est juste en train de s'ouvrir au tourisme et donc pas encore trop "abimé" (est-ce le mot juste ? Pas forcément) et donc cela me semble le moment avant qu'il ne soit vraiment trop tard de pouvoir ressentir ce pays différemment de celui qu'il sera très certainement dans plusieurs années.
Il est vrai que si je partais seule avec mon conjoint, je me poserais moins de questions quant à cette destination, je pense qu'au contraire on partirait car justement nos plus beaux souvenirs et nos plus belles émotions viennent de lieux encore suffisamment vierges de tourisme sans pour autant avoir été des destinations "compliquées" (lieux dans lesquels je n'ose plus aujourd'hui d'ailleurs retourner sachant que pour nombre d'entre eux ils sont devenus bien trop courus et surtout surchargés).
Alors il est vrai que connaître à nouveau ce plaisir m'attire, mais pas sûr que cela plaise comme tu le dis à un ado de 14 ans. Nous nous étions déjà de jeunes adultes dont les besoins de vacances sont déjà plus les mêmes que pour de jeunes ados.
Alors ? Destination pas trop surchargée en masse touristique mais pourtant déjà assez facile à vivre en tant que touriste ?
La Thailande est je ne sais pourquoi, un pays que j'ai mis de "côté" au vu des lectures (trop business tourisme ? Trop de masse touristique semble t-il), mais cela peut-être à tort car peut-être sur ce pays là on pourrait conjuguer beaux paysages, nature "tranquille", trouver des coins encore acceptables au niveau masse touristique mais aussi mixer tout cela avec des lieux plus funs et justement plus dans l'animation touristique.
Quant au VIETNAM, cette destination je l'ai regardée et pas encore mise de côté même si à aujourd'hui j'étais partie sur "pourquoi pas finalement la BIRMANIE",
J'ai encore beaucoup à cogiter...et je sais que le fait de partir avec notre fils de 14 ans est un élément essentiel dans la construction de notre future destination tout en ne laissant pas de côté le besoin de vivre des moments authentiques et non en mode "chenilles processionnaires"
Muriel
Bonjour,
Je suis partie avec un groupe d ados (14/17 ans ) en plein mois d août je pensais que ce serai l horreur, ayant déjà fait la Thaïlande en-dehors des vacances scolaires à 2, et en faite pas du tout. La Thaïlande leurs à beaucoup plus. Nous avons commencer par Bangkok, Sunkutai, Chang mai ( trek de 3 jours, cours d cuisine) et nous avons fini pas la mer à Ko Chang. Nous sommes partis que 21 jours. Si vous avez plus de temps essayer Ko samui ou d autre iles. Pour un ado je pense que c est une première belle expérience.
Merci Jordanscam pour ce récit sans langue de bois !
Je note précieusement tes adresses d'hôtel et notamment celles à Bagan et Inle !
Nous partons mi avril à la découverte de ce pays et donc "hors saison"! Je pensais également ne réserver que le premier hôtel à Yangon...
En tout cas je garde précieusement le lien de tes articles pour m'y replonger prochainement.
Ah et une question : tu as fait toutes tes réservations sur place d'un jour pour l'autre via Agoda ?
Merci Jordanscam pour ce récit sans langue de bois !
Je note précieusement tes adresses d'hôtel et notamment celles à Bagan et Inle !
Nous partons mi avril à la découverte de ce pays et donc "hors saison"! Je pensais également ne réserver que le premier hôtel à Yangon...
En tout cas je garde précieusement le lien de tes articles pour m'y replonger prochainement.
Ah et une question : tu as fait toutes tes réservations sur place d'un jour pour l'autre via Agoda ?
Merci encore ! :)
Bonjour Alice,
Pour les réservations, en fait, lorsque je me suis rendue compte que c'était "galère" de trouver un hôtel pas trop cher mais correct, je me suis occupée des réservations environ 2/3 jours avant via agoda... sachant, si tu lis ce blog, que la connexion wifi est très aléatoire, et que j'y ai passé parfois 2/3h pour choisir, sélectionner, réserver un hotel. J'aurai su, j'aurai fait comme beaucoup d'autres, réservé à l'avance. Mais tout cela était en haute saison, donc hors saison, cela risque de ne pas être une obligation de réserver. Il faut savoir toutefois que via agoda (ou quelques fois booking), tu payes moins cher que si tu arrives directement à l'hotel.... Etrange, mais c'est ce que j'ai constaté en discutant avec d'autres personnes.
Bon voyage :)
Oui effectivement quand nous avons voyagé au Cambodge l'an dernier c'est ce qu'on nous avait dit pour Agoda. Cela dit au Cambodge nous n'avons jamais réservé hormis l'hôtel d'arrivée et de départ...
Mais j'ai quand même l'impression que la Birmanie est un peu à part ! ;) (En même temps c'est aussi pour ça qu'on y va) !
Valide et signe : Kaday Aung hôtel à Bagan, belle adresse mais éviter les chambres à 45$, privilégier les suites à 60$, bien plus belles pour finalement pas plus cher...
( voir carnet sur mon profil)
Ben t'as eu de la chance, c'est vrai que les chambres derrière la piscine semblaient impeccable. Pour ma part, la première nuit on l'a passé dans un bâtiment derrière, et on a pas du tout validé : clim hors d'âge, murs en papier, matelas par terre, humidité énorme et salle de bain horrible ...
Du coup on a déménagé dans le bâtiment qui jouxte la réception, à gauche . Terrasse privative, wifi réservé, douche Et baignoire, King seize bed .... Palace ! 😉
Voilà un récit bien réaliste sans faux-semblants .🙂
J'ai eu l'impression en lisant , que la Birmanie réserve pas mal de "galères" courantes pour les routards , mais ici, c'est en version "pas gai" . Il faut mettre beaucoup du sien pour dépasser .
J'ai relevé une réflexion d'un(e) intervenant(e) disant que la Birmanie est encore vierge du tourisme . ....Je voudrais préciser qu'elle ne l'est pas tout à fait , car elle est rôdée dans le tourisme de luxe , qu'elle semble encore vouloir développer au vu de ses nombreux chantiers de construction d'hôtels 4 et 5 étoiles .
Donc pour les routards , en saison , il faut réserver , sinon on passe beaucoup de temps sur internet pour réserver au dernier moment ( 🤪 )
Je remarque aussi qu'une chose n'a pas changé en 15 ans , c'est que les trajets en bus sont restés longs, lents , et nocturnes .
...Donc mieux vaut être motivé et en bonne santé 😉 pour visiter le pays aux milliers de pagodes .
merci pour ce recit qui nous plonge directement dans le pays et pas seulement le cote carte postale
je pars avec ma fille debut mai pour 20 jours avec a peu pres le meme itineraire, et il nous tarde d'y etre.
certains de tes hotels ont l air sympas on va peut être les essayer.
merci
Je viens de quitter Bagan et Inlè. Nous étions 4 dans un hôtel de 25 chambres à Bagan!! Mi avril il va faire 45 degrés d après ce que m a dit le gérant de l hôtel et vous serez seul au monde ( vérifier juste que vous arrivez bien après le nouvel an birman parce que là il y a du monde). On était au Lawkanat, absolument top (pour nous en tout cas) avec une magnifique piscine obligatoire en cette saison 😉.
On a trouvé beaucoup plus de monde à Inlé car le site est beaucoup moins vaste (a Bagan les touristes sont répartis sur 3 villages, à Inlé sur un seul et ça change tout). Mais à cette période vous allez être très tranquille. Après c est quand même top de réserver pour ne pas avoir à chercher après des heures de bus!!
Ce pays est fan.tas.ti.que. Après plus de 20 voyages, je vois ici des choses jamais vu ailleurs (notamment un accueil que je trouve exceptionnel).
Je ferai un compte rendu à mon retour (fin mars). Pour l instant on part pour Hpa An puis Chaungtha pour finir.
Bonne préparation.
Christelle
Ravi de voir que tout va bien et que toi aussi tu es séduite par cet accueil tout sourire et gentillesse.
Bonne continuation. Il me tarde de lire ton récit ! Hpa han est un coin où j'aimerai bien aller.... plus tard...
Merci Peggy pour ton récit complet et détaillé.
Nous partons début mai pour 2 semaines mais en circuit organisé. Oui nous ne sommes pas des fous de routards.......
En tout cas, c'est vrai que c'est le moment d'y allé car dans quelques années ce sera comme la Thaïlande.
Sur France 5, il y avait fin février un reportage sur la Birmanie et ca donne envie.
on espère que début mai, il ne pleut pas trop (surtout pour avoir de bonnes photos )
En tout cas, on attend ton album photo en ligne
Merci Peggy pour ton récit complet et détaillé.
Nous partons début mai pour 2 semaines mais en circuit organisé. Oui nous ne sommes pas des fous de routards.......
En tout cas, c'est vrai que c'est le moment d'y allé car dans quelques années ce sera comme la Thaïlande.
Bernard (du Nord)
Oui, je lis beaucoup cela ....pour ma part, je trouve plutôt que la Birmanie est partie pour devenir comme le Sri Lanka , car elle développe le système des réservations , le tourisme de luxe , les circuits encadrés .
Il reste peu de place pour ceux qui souhaitent improviser au jour le jour , comme cela reste très courant en Thaïlande , dans de bonnes conditions , surtout en dehors de quelques destinations très touristiques .....l'avenir dira .
Oui, je lis beaucoup cela ....pour ma part, je trouve plutôt que la Birmanie est partie pour devenir comme le Sri Lanka , car elle développe le système des réservations , le tourisme de luxe , les circuits encadrés .
Il reste peu de place pour ceux qui souhaitent improviser au jour le jour , comme cela reste très courant en Thaïlande , dans de bonnes conditions , surtout en dehors de quelques destinations très touristiques .....l'avenir dira .
Bonsoir Jordanscam,
Très joli récit , je me suis régalée de le lire. Je t'ai trouvée très courageuse de faire ce périple dans un pays en cours de développement, et je vois qu'il y a beaucoup à faire encore.
çà m'a permis d'apprendre un peu sur ce pays que je voulais visiter et je pense que j'attendrais un peu.....Par contre d'après les photos quelques paysages sont magnifiques. Merci beaucoup.
Cordialement
Sylvia 😉
Bonjour Sylvia,
Je ne regrette rien, ce voyage fut merveilleux, malgré mes quelques déboires.
Je ne sais pas comment ce pays sera d'ici quelques années, mais je suis sûre d'une chose : être témoin de l'ouverture du Myanmar vers le reste du monde, rencontrer les birmans qui sont si heureux de leur perspective d'avenir, même si tout est incertain et même si les guerres civiles font encore ravage dans bien des parties du pays .... ceux sont des moments précieux qui n'existeront plus d'ici très peu de temps.
Pour cela, je suis heureuse d'avoir visité ce pays maintenant et pas dans quelques années :)
Bonjour Peggy,
Oh oui je veux bien le croire que vivre des moments comme tu les as vécus, dans les débuts d "ouverture "de ce beau pays est une chance incroyable. Je te remercie pour ton message.
Sylvia 🙂
"So, my little wanderers, back at the decks? What’s this mystery destination you’ve got in store for us at the start of the year?"
Yes, the schoolyard bell’s ringing again! We’re hitting the road... or rather, the skies! At first glance, our destination might surprise more than a few. First off, simply because I was here exactly twenty years ago, and I don’t usually like retracing my own footsteps. Secondly, because the name of this place screams mass tourism—basically the opposite of what Flo and I look for.
Despite that, in this land of backsheesh, I’d promised myself I’d come back one day to experience it my way. And since Flo told me, during our wanderer chats, that this destination straddling Africa and the Middle East was in her top 2 travel dreams, the stars aligned for this roots-style trip to quickly make it onto our pharaonic festivities program! Unless you’re totally clueless in general knowledge, you’ve probably guessed by now—we’re off to Egypt! Of course, a few classics will be on our itinerary, but above all, we want to soak up a culture that can’t be appreciated in four-star resorts or on a Nile cruise boat. And let’s be clear, these next two weeks won’t be a walk in the park—neither for our two daughters who are joining us, nor for our bodies!
And that’s clear from the get-go: after our first flight, eight hours of trying (and failing) to sleep on Milan airport’s metal seats, our second flight, landing, passport stamps, our Uber ride, and our first Cairo kilometers, we finally drop our exhaustion at the little guesthouse we booked in Giza. Doesn’t all that energy deserve a little reward?
Oh, absolutely! And here it is: a full-on slap in the face for everyone! But just look at this view from our hotel terrace? For 20 € a night for four, even with this incredible view, I figured the room must be pretty shabby, right? Nope... Is the staff rude, then? Nope... Okay, so what’s the catch? You’re gonna tell me breakfast is included too? Well, yes! Honestly, this Egypt trip is off to a great start.
And the rest of the afternoon, spent rubbing shoulders with locals, only confirmed this vibe. After digesting our pyramid view, we dove into the hustle and bustle of our neighborhood with the goal of exchanging money, eating at street stalls, and testing the hospitality of the locals. Ten out of ten!
Eight little sun breads with baba ganoush and falafel? 80 pounds, or 1.5 €. A dozen Middle Eastern pastries? Same! 80 pounds! Two hawawshis, those little pita breads stuffed with meat and spices? 10 pounds each, or about twenty cents! Not to mention all those smiles and free "welcomes" left and right!!!
What a welcome! We end this first day with a sunset over the three sisters of Giza—where we’ll obviously be gawking tomorrow...
Hi everyone, I’m Patrick, 67 years old, a seasoned traveler (already 22 trips outside Europe).
In autumn 2025, I took my first 3-week trip to Japan, with stops in Tokyo, Kamakura, Matsumoto, Kamikochi, Takayama, Kanazawa, Kyoto, Nara, Osaka, Koyasan, Tokyo again, and Nikko.
I wanted to go back in May 2026 and explore some lesser-known places to complement my first trip.
Last year, there were four of us traveling together to discover Japan (a fairly classic itinerary). This time, I’ll be traveling solo for part of the trip and with a couple of French friends for the rest.
The weather was gorgeous in May, averaging around 25°C, with two very hot days in Kyoto and only two rainy days.
As usual, I organized everything myself, gathering plenty of information from various sites, including this one.
Transportation:
An ICOCA card is essential.
I got a 5-day Kansai-Hiroshima pass because I took the shinkansen between Hiroshima and Osaka three times, and it paid for itself quickly.
Accommodations:
Mostly through Booking. No issues at all. Average cost was 46 € per night.
Meals:
For breakfast, I alternated between buying food at a konbini to eat in my room or on the train and grabbing something at local cafés.
For lunch and dinner, I tried to vary my meals as much as possible—lots of sashimi, sushi, and ramen.
Okonomiyaki in Osaka and Hiroshima.
Oysters in every form (raw, grilled, fried) in Onomichi and Hiroshima.
A variety of seafood (shrimp, shellfish) in Hiroshima and Matsumoto.
Fish whose names often escaped me, but notably mackerel and eel (unagi).
Tempura and gyoza.
Chicken skewers (yakitori) and one teppanyaki meal.
One omakase meal (9 different dishes).
In the end, not much meat aside from a few yakitori skewers. No splurges on super expensive wagyu or Kobe beef.
Average dinner cost: 4,800 yen, drinks included.
The Itinerary:
Day 1: Departure from Brussels
Day 2: Arrival in Osaka
Day 3: To Himeji, then Kurashiki
Day 4: To Fukuyama, then Tomo no Ura, then Onomichi
Day 5: Cycling the Shimanami Kaido
Day 6: To Takahara, then Hiroshima
Day 7: To Kyoto to attend the Aoi Matsuri parade
Day 8: To Miyajima
Day 9: Hiroshima, then Kyoto
Day 10: Southern Kyoto
Day 11: Northern Kyoto
Day 12: Final day in Kyoto, then to Nagatsugawa
Day 13: Start of the Nakasendo Trail (Magome to Tsumago)
Day 14: Second day of the trail (Kiso Fukushima)
Day 15: Third day of the trail (Narai), then Matsumoto
Day 16: To Mt. Fuji (Kawaguchiko)
Day 17: To Tokyo
Day 18: Excursion to Enoshima and Kamakura
Day 19: Flight home, with a 10-hour layover in Hong Kong
Day 20: Arrival in Brussels
Here we go with this second travel journal dedicated to the American West! It’s a must when you love it! 😊
We had left off in the charming town of Bisbee, which once thrived thanks to its copper mines. Today, mining is a thing of the past, and the town seems a bit sleepy.
Unfortunately, I didn’t dig deep enough on-site to answer all the questions my observations raised. Guess I’ll have to *dig* into the subject a bit more... no pun intended! 😊
Let’s hop back in the car and head a little further south to check out the esplanade that offers a view—if you can call it that—of the impressive open-pit mine.
Then, it’s off to the Lowell neighborhood.
Preserved almost exactly as it was, this area must’ve been bustling in its heyday. The vintage cars are still around, storefronts and signs look like they’re straight out of another era, and the whole place has a pretty amazing vibe. You’d almost think you were on Route 66!
Here, we’re not just discovering an old neighborhood—it’s a little slice of American history. And, a detail that’s great for my physical health: the area isn’t too spread out.
Lucky me! 😊
I won’t post too many photos here since I think I can turn them into a future photo exhibit. Between these and some shots from Route 66, I should have more than enough material! So, let’s keep a few under wraps... to preserve the surprise. 😊
I’m sharing a little recap of this new 4-week trip to China—nothing fancy, just my experience.
We’re taking advantage of the extended visa exemption to return to China for the 4th time. I loved last summer’s trip so much that I’m a bit worried about being disappointed this year. Plus, I’ve had a few hiccups before this departure: my WeChat account got blocked, and I couldn’t recover it (luckily, Alipay still works fine); I couldn’t verify my 12306 account for weeks; Trip.com failed to book our second train; and I’ve got an injury that’ll slow me down during the trip... Ugh, I hate starting a trip with these kinds of issues. Then, oh surprise! Just before leaving, my 12306 account got verified! Super easy to use from that point on—I could book a few train tickets without fees.
We’re sticking with Free’s e-SIMs, which work great in China.
August 2–3
Anyway, on the morning of August 2nd, we took the RER to CDG. As usual, we couldn’t check in online. It’s always a bit frustrating, especially since we didn’t have any checked luggage. We flew with Air China. We arrived at the check-in counter at 9:50 AM, 2 hours and 40 minutes before the flight. The line for our check-in stretched 300 meters across the airport in both directions. What a joke!! We spent 1 hour and 45 minutes in that line just to reach the counter and get our boarding passes. By then, it was 11:35 AM, and boarding had already started at 11:20 AM. The screens showed a 25-minute walk to our gate—on the other side of the airport, of course—plus we had to go through passport control and security... Long story short, the plane didn’t leave without us 🙂 We boarded among the last passengers, and we took off at 12:30 PM. We’d flown Air China four times before, but this time, it felt *really* low-cost. The check-in chaos, the cramped seats (12 seats per row), no music by artists known outside China, mediocre food, and a boarding area at Beijing Airport with only 10 seats—worthy of Ryanair or EasyJet. And yet, the price was sky-high. Again, D.’s vacation requests were denied outside of July and August, so we’re traveling from August 2nd to 30th. We couldn’t have picked a worse time for inflated prices, and with the situation in Iran, we got hit with a 390 € fuel surcharge. I’ve never paid so much for flights—I felt like I’d bought business class, but nope, far from it!!
We landed in Beijing around 4:15 AM. It was 28°C with thick fog. We drove and drove and drove for 20 minutes, as usual in Beijing. Then we went through a first check, a second check, a third check, and waited for our connecting flight at 6:40 AM. A small Airbus A320, but way more space than in the Boeing 777 from the first flight. We landed in Kunming, Yunnan, around 10:15 AM in the rain.
We headed to the subway. You can’t pay at the machines with Alipay here either, so we set up the transport QR code directly in Alipay to scan at the subway gates. The process is a bit long the first time if you haven’t entered your info before, but once it’s done, it’s *so* much easier! We took Line 6 to the terminus for 6 yuan each.
We’d booked a hotel nearby, on the 16th floor. It’s actually studios on different floors of a huge residential building. The view’s pretty nice from here. We settled in quickly—back to those wooden beds, or rather, mattresses as hard as wood, which we *hadn’t* missed...
Then we went out for our first bowl of noodles of the trip and wandered through the shopping streets of the old town.
It was crowded, and the weather was cool—around 19–20°C. We tried a local specialty: milk skin, thick, dried, then grilled with rose jam. Yeah... we won’t be having that again. The taste and texture of the milk skin... no thanks.
We saw a lot of wild mushroom hotpot too. It’s on our list for later. We also passed through the Jinma and Biji gates, where I played with reflections in puddles. I *love* doing that 🙂
At the end of the day, we headed to a temple advertised as open 24/7 on Amap. Of course, when we got there, it was closed. We’ll go back tomorrow. That was the first of many disappointments with Amap this trip—I hadn’t had that issue on previous visits.
We were exhausted after that sleepless flight. Night was falling, and we decided to grab a quick bite without much appetite. We shared a delicious vegetable fried rice for 12 yuan—we even left half of it. The portions are *huge*.
After a couple of small purchases, we headed back at 9 PM, wiped out, after walking 17 km between the airports and these first steps in Kunming. I expected to see quite a few Western travelers here, but we didn’t spot a single one. Instead, we met lots of curious Chinese people, many of them super friendly and helpful—almost *too* eager, like when they’d run to serve us as fast as possible. It’s a bit much, but it’s great to be back!
So, a new year has begun. It’s time to reconnect with the VF buddies and wish you all my best for 2026—a year I hope is obviously full of travel, since, as I just made up:
"If travel’s good, everything’s good" 😄.
To celebrate, I’m inviting you into my new "travel journal," the one from our latest trip in November 2025, a little two-week adventure.
This time, we headed to The Gambia, a tiny country tucked right in the middle of Senegal, before making our way to Casamance.
The Gambia is English-speaking, Senegal is French-speaking, but the locals? They couldn’t care less—because in this part of the world, they mostly speak Wolof, Fula, Jola, or Mandinka.
Hence the title: Senegambia 😉.
As usual, I’m sharing the live updates I sent to friends and family—super casual, of course.
I know this isn’t the kind of destination that draws crowds, but if you love adventure, laughter, and emotion, it might just be your thing 😊.
After as many weeks as I have fingers on my right hand, we're hitting the road again, fully recovered from our pharaonic adventure. Back in France to drop off our daughters (sorry, girls!), this time it's just the two of us, ready to be welcomed by a new destination. They say it offers one of the richest cultural heritages in the world for those willing to put in the effort. It's the land of the ancient Silk Road, where we'll follow a journey steeped in history and discoveries straight out of *One Thousand and One Nights*. A former Soviet bloc region independent only since 1991, we'll be walking in the footsteps of Genghis Khan, Tamerlane, Alexander the Great, Marco Polo...
Another fun fact about this country: it's strictly forbidden to import porn on your phone. True story. The same goes for painkillers! Unless it's about sodomy—though the two don’t seem connected, that’s just how it is. Don’t ask me why! Anyway, I’m getting off track. Here’s the big question: Where do you think we’ve just landed?... To give you a hint, the locals are known for being incredibly welcoming. No sooner said than done—our first taxi driver, proud to transport French travelers, refused to let us pay for the ride. Great vibes for these two weeks ahead. So, any guesses?
Uzbekistan!!!
Off to Southern Africa again! This time, the trip wasn’t just about wildlife—it was also about the local cultures and the breathtaking landscapes Mother Nature has to offer. It was an emotional rollercoaster in every way, as you’ll see.
We visited two countries: Zambia, known for its reserves, and Malawi, which is less well-known but absolutely worth a visit. Our flight landed in Lilongwe, Malawi’s capital, where our vehicle was waiting—though with a 3-hour delay. It was a 4x4 without the rooftop tent this time, since we stayed in lodges (prices are very reasonable in Malawi). Just a heads-up: don’t exchange money at the airport or banks—the official rate was 1,750 Malawian kwacha to $1. On the black market, the rate was between 3,000 and 3,500 kwacha, making the cost of living much cheaper.
With that out of the way, our first stop was South Luangwa National Park in Zambia. The first hiccup came at the Malawi-Zambia border: we were missing a document the rental company had forgotten. After some back-and-forth, they sent it via WhatsApp ($20 to get it validated by the police). But things got worse—the car’s chassis number was off by one digit from the registered one. I thought our trip was over before it even started! After what felt like forever, we got through with a "tip" of $200. Total border crossing time: 3 hours, costing nearly $400. We arrived in South Luangwa after dark.
Thankfully, the next day made up for it with an incredible day in the park (check out the photos).
We spent two full days in South Luangwa before heading to Katete for the Kulamba ceremony.
Kulamba is an annual event held at the end of August, celebrating the Chewa people, who live across Zambia, Malawi, and Mozambique. The Chewa king attends, and representatives from neighboring nations bring offerings. Thousands gather for dances, speeches, and a massive market. There are few tourists, making it a truly authentic experience.
After a few days in Zambia, we returned to Malawi (the border crossing this time was smooth—just 45 minutes). Next stop: Lake Malawi.
Lake Malawi covers over 20% of the country and stretches 580 km. It’s home to a family of fish called cichlids, some of which are endemic to the lake. I recommend taking a day trip from Cape Maclear for snorkeling and to watch the fishing eagles swoop down to catch fish.
We hit the road again to visit Liwonde Reserve, where we had a few surprises. The lodge was on the other side of the river that borders the park, and the elephants didn’t seem to care. On the way from reception to our rooms, elephants blocked our path, and one even charged just before the stairs leading to our treehouse-style rooms.
To top it off, monkeys ransacked our rooms, tearing through plastic bags for food. A mixed experience, but no real harm done.
Next up: the mountains, specifically the Mulanje Massif. This is where Malawi’s tea is grown, and it’s also a great spot for day hikes or multi-day treks. The scenery is stunning, though sometimes the mist rolls in and hides it.
After the mountains, we visited another reserve: Majete. The park is growing and now has more wildlife. We saw lions and even caught a fleeting glimpse of a leopard. And of course, the elephants got involved again—this time giving us a real scare.
During the morning game drive with a guide, we stopped to watch a herd of elephants feeding. Everything was fine until, for some reason, a female got spooked—probably for her calf—and positioned herself in front of us on the track. After a few minutes, we thought the elephants would move on, but then a young one started provoking us. The problem? We had females and calves in front of us, but also two large adult males—one behind us and one to the side.
We were trapped, and even our guide looked nervous. After what felt like an eternity (though it was only a few minutes), the herd finally moved on, freeing the track. That afternoon, we did a self-drive safari and—you guessed it—we had zero interest in running into elephants again.
The next day, we headed back to Lilongwe for our flight home. It was a fantastic, varied trip with some intense moments (sometimes *too* intense). Malawi offers amazing opportunities for those who want more than just wildlife reserves.
Alright, this year, we're heading back to South America!
The initial plan was to retrace the route we imagined in the summer of 2020: a trip to northern Argentina starting from Córdoba.
Unfortunately, the flight to Córdoba no longer exists, and airfares to Javier Milei’s country are both outrageously priced and involve multiple layovers.
So, I tweaked Google Flights every which way and finally found a flight within my budget—departing from Clermont-Ferrand!
Not to Argentina, though...
Our transatlantic flight will cross the snow-capped Andes, landing in Santiago, Chile, with a return from Lima!
In between, two domestic flights and a big road trip loop starting from the coastal city of Arica to explore the treasures of northern Chile.
Our mode of transport: a pseudo 4x4 that won’t take us through sand dunes or devilish tracks but will let us tackle the entire secondary network, including unpaved main roads, while still being insured.
Is the suitcase packed with all-season clothes?
Are the driver’s license and passport ready?
Bank cards and a few euros too?
Off we go for just over 3 weeks of southern wanderings!
--/--
To keep all my esteemed readers on track, here are a few maps outlining the Arica-Arica loop!
1- From Arica to San Pedro de Atacama via Pica and the Salar de Huasco
2- Around San Pedro
3- From San Pedro to Cariquima
4- From Cariquima to Putre
5 - From Putre to Arica
Gas stations in this part of Chile are located in Arica, Iquique, Pozo Almonte, Pica, Calama, and San Pedro de Atacama.
I hope this travel journal might interest some people, but since we were completely self-sufficient (tent, sleeping bag, pot, cooking over a wood fire…) almost every day, I don’t have many hotel addresses or great restaurant tips to share! Sorry!
We used the Maio map at 1:50,000 scale. It’s part of the Boa Vista/Sal/Maio map. Bought on Amazon, but currently unavailable as of the latest news.
The people of Maio are extremely welcoming and warm, and we were always more than well received in the villages where we pitched our tent!
We’re usually big hikers, but since Maio is a beach island (gorgeous ones, at that!), we alternated a few hours of walking in the morning with some relaxation in the afternoon: beach, reading, fishing, resting…
1 euro = 110 escudos
Day 1 (Friday) Transfers by plane: Fogo-Praia-Maio
We opted for the plane to save some time on transfers, as the boat connections between Fogo and Praia take a while, and those between Praia and Maio are almost nonexistent.
You should budget around 40-50 euros per flight per person.
There are 2 flights per week between Praia and Maio—on Tuesdays and Fridays when we were there (January 2016), but currently on Mondays and Fridays.
A bit of a delay leaving Praia, but we arrived on Maio without any problems around 4 PM.
We took an *aluguer* (shared transport, 200 escudos per person) to the center of Vila do Maio, but it’s totally doable on foot with a backpack.
Since it was already a bit late, for this first night, we dropped our bags at Big Game Maio. A standard European-style hotel run by a very nice Italian family. It’s a bit pricey for us (5500 escudos for 2 people with breakfast), but after our 2 weeks in a tent on Fogo, we were happy to find a little comfort. And the breakfast is ultra-generous, with fresh products (cured ham, fruit, cheese, bread) and top quality. The hotel restaurant offers dishes that are a clever mix of Italian and Cape Verdean cuisine. Excellent!
Little tip: We didn’t try it, but Big Game Maio offers big-game fishing trips, diving, and quad rentals.
The hotel is 2 minutes from Vila’s beautiful beach, and we went for a dip at sunset and took a stroll around town. They’re redeveloping the waterfront with pretty sidewalks and light stone walls.
Vila beach
Sunset behind Santiago
Day 2 (Saturday): rest day + fishing
After 2 weeks of hiking and since Vila is such a peaceful place where it’s nice to take your time, we decided to spend an extra day there. We took the path heading south along the coast to reach Ponta Preta beach in 20 minutes. The path isn’t very pretty because there’s quite a bit of construction going on, which prevents you from really walking along the shore. Lots of real estate agencies, especially Italian ones, have taken over the land. But Ponta Preta beach is a stunning black-sand beach where we had the whole place to ourselves. We decided to go fishing from the rocks.
At 1 PM, the sun was blazing, so we headed back to Vila and dried the fish for the following days.
At 6 PM, we went fishing again, but this time at night from the rocks at the end of Vila beach.
8:30 PM: back to shower and eat at the restaurant.
The rocks and sea at Ponta Preta
Day 3 (Sunday): from Vila do Maio to Calheta de Baixo, via Monte Batalha (path 101) Hiking time: 5h
Since there aren’t many “summits” on Maio, we decided to head to Calheta de Baixo but via Monte Batalha. We left at 8:20 AM and somehow made it to Monte Batalha by 11 AM (2h40 of hiking). But the path is really hard to find in the middle of the dry grass and acacia trees. We kind of cut through randomly, aiming for the summit. Even though it’s not very high (around 300 m), the view is amazing—you can see all of Maio at 360°!
Short 30-minute break. The descent through the “forest” of acacias is even worse for finding your way. We oriented ourselves a bit by the sun to find the road connecting Vila to Calheta. We arrived around 1:30 PM at Calheta de Baixo. A very pretty little seaside village with colorful houses. An idyllic beach, a newly renovated square, and super-friendly people. We pitched our tent facing the sea on the terrace of an abandoned house (after asking the locals for permission).
We cooked some of the dried fish we’d caught the day before, along with fresh beans we’d brought from Fogo (and were still carrying!).
At the summit of Monte Batalha
Calheta
Calheta de Baixo
Day 4 (Monday): From Calheta de Baixo to Morrinho on foot. Hiking time: 3h. Then hitching a bus to Cascabulho, and a car to Pedro Vaz.
We left around 9:30 AM heading north (path 201), following the coastline where the beaches just keep coming—each one wilder and more beautiful than the last: Praia de Soca, Calheta Braca, Ponta de Pau Seco, Calhetina. We reached the dunes of Baia de Santana. There’s no real path, so you have to follow the coast, then go around the dunes, and when you spot the 3 coconut trees, head east toward them to find the track leading to Morrinho. Again, we discovered a village with a Wild West vibe, with colorful houses lined up on either side of a paved road. Just enough time to accept a drink offered by a local before jumping onto the passing school bus that took us to Cascabulho. There, we waited for a ride. A political delegation of 10 cars drove right past us without stopping. Luckily, one of the cars had a flat tire and came by 30 minutes later—and that one, thankfully, gave us a lift! They were heading to the inauguration of a water pump in Pedro Vaz. So that’s where we stopped too. After getting permission from the school principal, we pitched our tent in front of the village school… and became the attraction for all the kids who kept us company until nightfall! A woman gave us 2 jugs of water, but with all that company, it was tough to take a peaceful shower!!
Dinner: pasta with beans.
We were woken up by rain during the night and had to rush to bring all our stuff inside the tent!
The beaches just keep coming...
The dunes
The 3 coconut trees, a landmark to find the track
Day 5 (Tuesday): Rest day and fishing at Boca da Ribeira beach
We packed up at 8 AM because the kids had school. We filled the 2 water jugs that the woman lent us and headed down to camp at Boca da Ribeira beach, which is a bit further east of Pedro Vaz. It took less than an hour to get there. This time, we really were alone in the world! We pitched the tent and spent the day fishing, reading, playing, and swimming regularly because the sun was beating down hard!!! We caught a nice fish that we grilled over the fire in the evening. With the crabs and shellfish we gathered, we made a seafood rice! Yum! What a feast!
That night, once the tent was zipped up, we felt something like rain on the tent fabric. I decided to go out and gather our things, and then—shock!!! It wasn’t raindrops we were feeling and hearing, but bugs attracted by the light!! Not just a few bugs—a huge swarm of them!!! Thousands of bugs covering the whole tent, the ropes, slipping into the seams and hems! Everywhere! The blue tent had turned green!!! After that, it was a real struggle to get back inside without letting any in! A real challenge, and there were always 3 or 4 that managed to sneak in anyway. Total war!!!
Boca da Ribeira beach
Day 6 (Wednesday): From Boca da Ribeira to Ribeira Dom João. Hiking time: 3h30
We woke up leisurely and waited for the sun to dry our things, damp from the dew. A man passed by, and we gave him the water jugs we’d borrowed, which saved us a trip back to Pedro Vaz to return them to the woman.
We left around 10 AM. We followed the sea to Alcatraz, then headed toward Pilão Cão. The path runs alongside the small hills on our right, and we passed above Lagoa Cimidor. The terrain is arid, and the path is hard to find among the many goat tracks.
After 3h30 of hiking, we reached Ribeira Dom João with 2 young people we’d met along the way.
Since it was a public holiday in Cape Verde, the kids didn’t have school, and with the principal’s permission, we pitched our tent in the kindergarten. She even kindly opened the school toilets for us. The neighbor gave us the water we needed to wash up and cook. We cooked beef steaks on charcoal. A nice change from fish!! Charcoal is a widespread artisanal product on the island. People almost never cook directly over wood but always with these big chunks of charcoal.
The hills on our right
Ribeira Dom João
Day 7 (Thursday): From Ribeira Dom João to Vila do Maio. Hiking time: 3h30
We woke up at 6:30 AM to clear out of the school by 8 AM. The neighbor made us coffee to save time. It took us 2 hours to reach Barreiro, another Wild West-style town! Since we didn’t want to walk on the road, we took the old track and reached Vila do Maio in 1h30.
Last night before taking the plane back to Praia the next day.
Barreiro
The old track
The church in Vila do Maio
That’s where this trip ends!
Maio is truly a magical island! A remote, isolated place with incredible, wild beaches and villages with a Wild West feel—colorful houses on either side of well-paved, well-maintained, and decorated streets. And the locals are so warm and welcoming.
Even for hikers like us, it was a great discovery, and we were able to alternate hiking and relaxation with great pleasure! Too bad the area around Vila do Maio is being overrun by real estate construction—ongoing, unfinished, abandoned…
And we still haven’t seen everything!
Before setting off for new horizons at the end of this year, it’s time for me to share my trip to Cape Verde this summer 2025.
I particularly love these spontaneous trips, and our stay in Cape Verde is one of those because it was only at the beginning of April that we decided on this getaway, which had been catching our eye for a while, given our love for the mountains.
As always—well, when it’s open—I turned to VF, and I want to immediately thank Marie, aka ptitortue, who helped me a lot in planning this trip through her travel journals and our exchanges!
Because Cape Verde is both small and vast! We decided not to rush from one airport to another, to enjoy the places and the people, but also to relax, since the work backlog from being stuck in May (see my previous travel journal 😅) had to be caught up on in June.
So, 4 islands will be our winners from 06/28 to 07/19:
Santiago first for logistical reasons, as round-trip flights from the capital Praia were the cheapest (650 €/person from Lyon via Lisbon with TAP, still!)
São Vicente, because it’s the gateway to the next one but ultimately more than that...
Santo Antão, pretty much the main goal of the trip since Marie (and the photos) had really sold it to me.
And finally, Sal Island, for some rest—a non-negotiable condition for my other half—and we’ll see that I should’ve listened to Marie...
That said, what a chatterbox I am—buckle up, flight attendants at the doors, off we go on new beautiful escapes! (Thanks to Sophie for the easy loan)
Last note for my eager fan club 😏: yes, there will be alcohol—how could there not be in the land of grogue!
Hi everyone, we're back from a DIY USA road trip we organized from July 31, 2026, to August 26, 2026.
The destination: The Southwest USA, including Texas, Arizona, and New Mexico. Roughly 7,000 kilometers covered.
The car: A Chevrolet Equinox for two, rented through BSP Auto and Avis. Inside, we had 2 suitcases, a travel bag, two carry-on bags, a Walmart cooler, photo gear, and water bottles (a 40-pack).
The route: Dallas DFW, Fort Worth, Houston, Austin, San Antonio, Alpine, El Paso, Tucson, Sedona, Albuquerque, Amarillo, and back to Dallas to finish with a departure from DFW.
The travelers: Two seniors well advanced in years (73 and 75) but still active (nothing too physically demanding—to stay alive and fund our trips), fully independent physically, though a bit less so mentally. Big USA fans, a country where anything is possible. More walkers than hikers, preferring 3-star hotels over roadside motels, Italian restaurants over US food, frequent stops for photos, museums over nothing, naps over forced marches. Not too whiny, just enough to stay French in the land of the "great Satan," as they say.
Not great with languages—street English (but handy), and my Spanish is non-existent except for: "Hola! Una cerveza por favor!" That’s about it. My wife understands everything but refuses to speak.
The cost of the road trip: Around 12,000 €, including AF flights, the car, gas, gifts, visits, and everything else. Well managed, since we’d budgeted 13,500 € initially.
The positive side: A delight, with those endless open roads. Museums to discover. The realization of the Hispanic presence and its important history in this part of America. Lovely locals. Tourists who were more or less friendly. A terrible Texan accent that was hard to understand. Gas stations that were like real stores, with prepared food, alcohol sold in Arizona and New Mexico, and employees who were always up for a laugh!
The negative side: The heat throughout the trip... 43°C in Dallas at the end. Impossible to walk the streets. Lots of homeless people in downtown Dallas. Hotel breakfasts that were always the same. You get used to it.
So, it was positive overall, but the concept is starting to wear us out. We might rethink the DIY road trip model for next time. If the man upstairs grants us more time.
Next up, we’ll wait for the first batch of sorted photos to go through the wringer.
It was winter, a winter with beautiful weather,
A season that only exists in the southwest of America,
I remember very well what I told you that morning
A month ago... A century ago, an eternity ago...
We’ll go... wherever you want, whenever you want...
Well, yeah, back from our adventure in our enchanting American West just a month ago, we’re already taking a bite out of one of its lesser-known competitors. "Flo, if you had to pick just one reason to justify your love for the U.S., what would it be?" The greasy, dripping burgers? No, I don’t think I’m going out on a limb by saying it’d be the wide-open spaces... And that’s exactly what our new quest is taking us to—a land on the other side of the globe where the horizon also seems endless, where silence tastes like salty wind and sand, where freedom is measured in kilometers of desert tracks, where the GPS is mostly there to confirm you’re lost in the middle of nowhere... Add to that magic formula the fact that you’ll see more zebras, giraffes, wildebeest, and elephants than people per square kilometer, and you can imagine us setting foot in Southern Africa for the first time, more precisely at the small airport in Windhoek, capital of... of...? Brush up on your geography, damn it! We’re landing in Namibia!!!
To be honest, Namibian landscapes have been flirting with me for ages. So how did I resist this island of temptation for so long? First, the budget. Let’s just say that for the same amount of effort (and kidneys), the bank lets you choose two other adventures almost anywhere else on the planet. Then there were my girls. Yeah, back then, they were too little to dose up on Malarone, the only malaria remedy at the time... Long story short, ten years later, all the planets have aligned. First, I won the Euromillions! Well, almost... Let’s just say my girls are now old enough... not to take Malarone, but to stop following me on all my adventures! Jackpot! "Flo, how about a little two-person caprice, just the two of us, tackling the Namibian tracks?"
As we landed on the runway, first wow effect: The horizon is immense. It’s flat as can be, incredibly flat... So much flat space! Did I mention it was flat?... Looking into the distance, it feels like your gaze could circle the Earth without hitting a single obstacle—until you end up staring at your own backside. "Oh, what a nice view!" Well, it’s the first time I’ve seen my butt from this angle! Touching moment... Sorry, I’m rambling—must be the exhaustion from the three-flight marathon we just powered through via Ethiopia and South Africa... And yet, no time to philosophize about my anatomy. As usual, we want to rack up our first kilometers to be front and center at dawn tomorrow. After wrapping up the tedious Namibian immigration formalities and meeting the 4x4 that’ll be our companion day and night for the next fifteen days, we’re off! We’re not exactly fresh, but we’re ready to tackle the next five hundred kilometers in night mode, cruise control set due south! Just outside Windhoek, the local wildlife—a jackal—welcomes us with a smile: "Welcome to Namibia!" That’s what it said! Honest... Okay, first endless straight road, first flaming sunset, first corrugated dirt track, first Milky Way with zero light pollution... You get it—it’s definitely the day of firsts... First night camping, too, in the big trunk of our Toyota Fortuner parked by the side of the track... The real adventure, the kind that smells under the arms, can finally begin...
Traveling with just one spare pair of underwear, considering a hot shower a miracle, never staying in the same place too long by sleeping wherever night catches us, taking whatever local, improbable, and rickety transport we can find—this is the DNA of us wanderers. Except this time, the script for our movie is going to be a whole different genre. On paper, the destination doesn’t exactly scream epic adventure: Réunion! And what’s more... we won’t be two, or four, or even ten. We’ll be a solid thirty. All from the same family. Yes, thirty. At this point, it’s not just a trip—it’s a summer camp on the move! Why inflict this on such a peaceful island? Because my brother decided to get married there with his lovely bride. A great idea, you might say... especially when it involves relocating the equivalent of a small Ardennes village 10,000 kilometers from home for three weeks! So who’s stepping up to be the guide and wave the little flag?
So, for an exceptional trip, exceptional stories! Don’t worry, the debates at the supermarket over whether to choose plain chips or roast chicken chips, the beach picnics washed down with ti’ punch, and other rougail sausages to digest by the pool will only make it into the family archives. Here, I’ll stick to the tales of our beautiful escapes, the ones where we explore the wild corners of this little volcanic rock planted in the middle of the Indian Ocean. So where exactly are we headed?
For the first week—the subject of this first installment—we’re taking it easy. We’ll start by rediscovering the coastline, from the Souffleur in Saint-Leu to the Hermitage lagoon, before a little trip to the Cirque de Cilaos and its legendary road with 400 turns, just to get our legs warmed up.
"How about a Christmas market this year, huh? A little romantic weekend getaway...
- Yes! That’d be cool! Strasbourg? Colmar?
- Feels a bit déjà vu, doesn’t it? Plus, slim chance of snow there... And I’d love something a bit more exotic with a touch of originality..."
"Okay, Google, give me the list of the five most beautiful Christmas markets in Europe.
- In fifth place, the Christmas market in Vilnius, the capital of Lithuania.
- Save your breath! Lithuania, here we come!"
We wanted cold, and cold is exactly what we got the moment we set foot in this new, unknown land. As for landscapes, forests and lakes stretch as far as the eye can see across this vast plain, its vegetation scorched by the frost of a winter that’s clearly already well underway here.
Lakes, in fact, set the scene for our first visit to Trakai Castle, whose brick-red towers and walls rise proudly against the azure sky of our first day. Lakes, because this castle was built on an island and is only accessible on foot via a series of walkways spanning half-frozen lake offshoots. I couldn’t have picked a better spot to build my castle! Translation: We’re totally sold! Proof is we spend two hours hiking around the area, alternating between forests, reeds, and cozy houses tastefully decorated for Christmas.
With my girlfriend Christelle, we’ve chosen South Africa for our first trip to Southern Africa, focusing on safaris—after a long debate with a Cape Town/Kruger combo.
But that would’ve meant cutting out St Lucia, which would’ve been harder to fit into another trip.
And St Lucia—thanks to Michel and all those travel journals—we really wanted to go there.
So our 11-night itinerary ended up like this, mostly shaped by school holidays:
- 3 nights in St Lucia
- 1 night in Hluhluwe
- 1 night at Mkhaya Game Reserve (Eswatini)
- 1 night at Hlane Royal National Park (Eswatini)
- 3 nights in Kruger (Berg en Dal / Satara / Tamboti)
- 1 night at Shindzela Tented Camp in the Timbavati private reserve
- 1 final night in Kruger at Lower Sabie
All of this in the off-season and rainy season, just a month after catastrophic floods that killed over 150 people and seriously damaged Kruger’s infrastructure.
I’ll jump straight to St Lucia and skip the loooong journey to get there (with a layover in Frankfurt, landing in Johannesburg, a domestic flight to Durban, and the rest by rental SUV—First Car Rental, perfect, no complaints).
To motivate readers—especially some familiar faces here—I’ll drop in a first photo.
This travel journal is therefore intended solely for my photos, to present a consistent style.
All the shots were taken with a simple Samsung Galaxy smartphone and with whatever was at hand.
All stays combined, I’ve spent the equivalent of three years at most in Thailand, and I’m not a big expert on the country.
However, after many trips, lots of reading on VoyageForum and other sites, and conversations with many locals as well as expats, my view of the country is becoming clearer, though it’s constantly evolving. You never stop discovering and learning.
I guess I wanted to piece together a puzzle, mainly for those who want to get an idea of the country here and for those who miss it.
I don’t know if this minimalist sharing will interest anyone, but it’ll do me good to put it together. After so many months without traveling and then these other long months with VF closed, there’s plenty of material available.
There’ll be a mix of places, periods, and subjects, but it might well be intentional.
I suspect many Thais have dogs because they make excellent guards for the home. Nothing better to deter burglars or to signal the presence of a snake. You’ll often see Thais tapping the top of their dog’s head, but don’t be fooled: it’s a sign of affection from them. Judging by the dogs’ reactions, they’re used to it.
Thailand is one of the countries on the planet where rabies is still present, so keep that in mind. It’s not just bites that can be dangerous, so don’t let just any dog lick you. Especially on a wound, of course.
Even though dogs often fear humans—this dangerous and unpredictable predator—we still need to stay cautious.
Be careful when walking into alleys because the dog will defend its master’s big property, be careful at night, and be careful when they’re in packs.
It sometimes crosses our minds that Thailand isn’t really made for walking around, and dogs are one of the reasons.
That said, it’s not uncommon to see them chasing bikes or scooters. Cars, though, are much rarer—they’re too big.
It seems Thais prefer to give their dogs freedom by not locking them behind gates. Though sometimes the gate is closed, the little side door is wide open. Oh, and sometimes there’s no gate in front of the property, or it’s been broken for years.
You’ll often see dogs sleeping on the side of the road, sometimes right on the road. When you arrive, they move aside nonchalantly—or not at all. It’s less funny when they suddenly appear from thick vegetation, which reminds visitors not to drive too fast. As a result, you’ll notice that dogs with injuries or missing legs aren’t that rare.
Since they believe in reincarnation and respect for all forms of life, they don’t chase dog packs away too much, and they don’t sterilize them enough. Seeing a small pack roaming freely in the countryside, you might think it’s best not to cross paths with them at the edge of a field.
A darker side of this is that euthanasia isn’t often practiced. Twice, we saw dogs at temples on the brink of death, enduring terrible suffering. No one did anything about it. The image (and the smell) of one of them, dying and emitting the stench of death, still comes back to me sometimes.
Some of you may have seen the YouTube vlog of a French woman living in Phuket who was given a little pig by her Thai friends. The well-fed animal quickly became a happy, enormous beast with its own garden. Yet, it didn’t take long for it to fall seriously ill and become incurable. In her video, the French woman described how difficult it was to find a vet willing to perform euthanasia.
You’ll often see bowls by the side of the road. Thais leave food and water in them for stray cats and dogs. Overall, they have a big heart for animals.
If you ever pop into a shopping mall, you might see people pushing their small dogs in strollers. It’s not a gimmick—it’s just that these strollers are provided for customers to put their pets in, otherwise you can’t bring them inside. It looks a bit odd when you expect to see a baby.
When we started looking for a summer destination a few months ago, our first criterion was to avoid extreme heat and heatwaves. We had already been to Norway two years ago and are considering going back in the future for other occasions. So, we had some fun asking ChatGPT which destinations enjoyed a mild climate during the summer without going too far. Among the list provided by the AI were the Canary Islands... The idea of a place we wouldn’t have thought of first, both not too far away and exotic enough, appealed to us: “Hmm, why not?”
This destination had never really attracted me, though Magali was a bit more interested. Five years earlier, COVID had caused a short break in my professional activity, and I had planned a trip because the flight price was attractive, and I was looking for a destination different from what usually appeals to me, more than out of deep interest. From a distance and with a social judgment I acknowledge (it’s not great, but it’s not completely wrong), I had the image of a destination for party-goers enjoying the sun without the slightest interest in local culture, with concrete coastlines and denatured landscapes—everything I detest the most. Still, I had done some quick research on the different islands and spotted Lanzarote for its beautiful volcanic landscapes, hiking trails, beaches, and the impression of a good balance between activity and fewer crowds than Tenerife or Gran Canaria. Then I dropped the idea of going, without ever reconsidering traveling to the Canaries...
Until now! Because we started researching the different islands of the archipelago to see which ones might appeal to us the most. It was La Gomera, the third smallest island of the archipelago, more praised for its hiking trails and preserved nature than for its beaches, away from mass tourism (fifty times fewer tourists than Tenerife) but still a bit more developed than its wild neighbor El Hierro, that caught our attention. Contrary to what might be suggested later, I’m not at all addicted to AI, but I use it from time to time to synthesize quick research or simply for experimentation. Since ChatGPT had started anticipating my tastes lately as if it had become my buddy (often successfully, sometimes off the mark), I asked which Canary Island would suit me best for a trip with my family. The tool answered first with... La Gomera. So, I tested it and teased it a bit to see if this suggestion was well-founded, as the method sometimes makes it contradict itself. But no luck: “You’d appreciate the wild nature of El Hierro, but with family, you’ll find little activity for the kids. You won’t like the touristy vibe of the big islands like Tenerife, Gran Canaria, Lanzarote, and Fuerteventura. You could consider La Palma, but it’s really La Gomera that will suit you best, based on your interests and the criteria given.” So, we dug deeper into our research and were convinced without a shadow of a doubt that this island was the one waiting for us.
Without knowing it, we had Canarians in our circle who revealed their origins when they heard about our travel plans. One from Tenerife insisted we’d be better off choosing Tenerife (obviously...) because it also has preserved spots and that La Gomera, “you can explore it in two or three days, you’ll get bored quickly...” The other, a colleague from Gran Canaria who had never visited La Gomera, still recommended it without hesitation because it turned out her parents had just gone there on vacation: they loved it and had encountered few tourists. She also tended to think this destination was usually the subject of short stays, but according to what her parents told her, taking your time there was also a great idea. However, in our research, the idea that La Gomera is an island you can explore in three or four days max kept coming up. So, we considered combining its visit with La Palma or El Hierro, the other two that caught our eye. But hopping between islands by ferry represents a significant budget for non-Canarians, even more so for a family of four. Then, scrutinizing Google Maps, it seemed obvious that two weeks were too short to discover two islands as they deserve, and that there seemed to be plenty to see in La Gomera, given its very unique culture. After all, we read that some people spend several months a year there, others never even leave... Finally, these landscapes and this atmosphere, which seemed to us a mix of Europe, North Africa, and Latin America, tempted us. So, it would be two weeks in La Gomera, deal!
La Gomera is therefore the second... well, the third smallest island of the Canaries since La Graciosa was recently recognized as a fully inhabited island. It has the shape of a rough circle about 20 to 25 kilometers in diameter and has just over 20,000 inhabitants, half of them in its capital, San Sebastián de la Gomera, the only real town. Like its Canarian sisters, La Gomera is a volcanic formation that rose about 10 million years ago. The island is very mountainous and rugged, covered with red and black rocky landscapes. Geological activity has shaped, between the sprawling massifs that end in steep cliffs in the ocean, six coastal valleys with tropical vegetation that have favored human settlement. They divide the island like slices of a cake; from the north clockwise: the agricultural Vallehermoso, the rustic Agulo, the green, humid, and fertile Hermigua, the sunny capital San Sebastián de la Gomera, the southern and isolated Alajeró-Santiago, and the seaside Valle Gran Rey. They constitute the six municipalities (more like cantons to our French understanding) of the territory.
The large solidified magma massifs that shape the heart of the island have created a large depression more protected from the sun at its center, allowing the growth of a vast laurel forest, today grouped within the Garajonay National Park, La Gomera’s green lung, which has earned it the status of a World Biosphere Reserve. Its completely European appearance contrasts sharply with the rocky and tropical landscapes of the rest of the island. Thus, the climate varies greatly from one point to another on the island: in summer, you can quickly go from a dry and sunny valley at 35°C to a humid forest area at altitude at 18°C.
La Gomera was populated late. As with the rest of the Canaries, human presence is thought to have begun about 2,000 years ago. Groups of animist Berbers, probably fleeing persecution, gradually populated the archipelago, especially the western islands and La Gomera, becoming its small aboriginal population: the Guanches (or later Gomeros). The animist and pastoral civilization of the Guanches thrived until the Spanish takeover in the 15th century, which, after a short period of harmony and mixing with the indigenous people, suddenly ended in bloodshed... La Gomera later became the “Columbus Island” after Christopher Columbus’s stopover, increasing the blending of populations. In the 20th century, many Gomeros emigrated to Cuba and other Latin American countries in search of a better life, bringing back a mix of cultures and traits quite palpable in today’s Gomeran culture. It is, however, in La Gomera that the vestiges of Guanche culture seem to have left the most traces, in the language, gastronomy, social practices... Moreover, most Gomeros, especially in remote villages, have a particular identifiable type and proudly claim their ancestral roots, even making La Gomera a bit exotic in the eyes of other Canarians.
Perhaps that’s why it has never really wanted to develop its tourist infrastructure too much. If we set aside the tourists who visit for the day by bus or boat from Tenerife on a marked itinerary (and whom we ultimately rarely encounter), La Gomera has remained a hidden gem, a destination focused on nature discovery that attracts hikers, nature-loving divers, and scientists for its fauna and flora, and to a lesser extent, beachgoers who don’t seek overly developed coastlines. Tourist activity is therefore limited. Roughly speaking, you’ll find a majority of Spaniards, including a substantial number of residents from other Canary Islands, many Germans who have a particular fondness for La Gomera and spend long stays there or own second homes, to the point that the German cultural footprint is clearly noticeable in some places (it’s said to be Angela Merkel’s favorite holiday spot), and still quite a few French. The presence of other nationalities seemed negligible to us. Most travelers come mainly for hiking, but it’s also a prime spot for whale watching. Additionally, the seaside resorts of La Gomera—San Sebastián, Santiago, and especially Valle Gran Rey—are well-known destinations for hippies, especially German ones, ranging from chic boho hippies to old-school hippies who’ve been there for decades, quite similar to those you’d meet in India in Goa, Rishikesh, or Paharganj. Thus, practices like naturism, vegetarianism, and local organic production are quite well established in some areas.
Some practical info:
- The round-trip flight from Paris to Tenerife cost us 365 € per person (outbound with Transavia, return with EasyJet), including checked luggage and three seats reserved side by side.
- We chose two bases to explore the island: one week in Valle Gran Rey, reputed to be the most pleasant of the three seaside resorts, and one week in Hermigua, more mountainous and close to the natural park. We booked two houses with balconies and views: the first at 120 € per night, the second at 99 €.
- The round-trip ferry between Tenerife and La Gomera cost us 270 € with the company Baleària Canarias, including discounts for children aged 4 and 12, but I don’t have the exact details. It was a bit cheaper than with the other company, Fred Olsen.
- Finally, we rented a car through the agency Cicar for 360 € for 16 days, which comes to 22.50 € per day.
- Apart from that, we didn’t plan anything and decided the day before or even the morning of what we wanted to do. We didn’t invest in any paper guide on the Canaries, as information on La Gomera was scarce, but we used the very comprehensive site La Gomera Travel, a travel guide published by the Canary Islands Tourism Council, a real goldmine of almost exhaustive information on the island.
Alright, off we go for 16 days of adventure discovering La Gomera!
If I close my eyes and think of the Sultanate of Oman, I first smell a light scent of incense, feel the warmth of a sunbeam on my skin, before sand slips through my fingers. I taste the sweetness of a date, a real candy, then the flavor of coffee with a hint of cardamom and rosewater... I hear the desert wind whistling in my ears, the distant call of a muezzin, then the murmur of water. I open my eyes to see smiles, welcoming gestures, a turquoise sea, rocks ranging from ochre to purple, deep wadis where torrents burst forth, orange dunes, white sandy beaches where tiny crabs scurry at full speed. I see incredible oases emerging between arid mountains. I see abandoned villages that I’d dream were full of life, imposing fortresses overlooking valleys, and lively souks where offers are delicate and negotiation is a mutual courtesy.
All that, and so much more.
This is what I tried to capture in my illustrated travel journal, which I’ll fill in here and there with photos.
I drew this journal “cold,” after my return (actually, I made it this summer, while our trip was last winter). It’s a pretty special format—I bought it in Japan without really knowing what I’d do with it. Well, it found its purpose! Below is a photo of this accordion-style journal: here, it’s only partially open, because when fully unfolded, it’s 5 meters long!
For drawing enthusiasts: The accordion format is both a constraint (each sheet is 9 cm x 27 cm) and a freedom (you can create a fresco). The paper is also a bit special: it doesn’t allow for fine lines, but it takes ink well (liner pen). However, everything has to be done almost in one go (with a very light pencil sketch) because it erases poorly. It absorbs too much water for coloring with markers or watercolors (unless you avoid soaking it), but it works well with oil pastels and their use with a brush and solvent. Since it’s yellowish, it allowed me to create contrasts even with white pastel.
On the right, the "welcome marker"—those dates offered everywhere as a sign of hospitality. On the left, a tribute to those stunning doors worn by time, admired all over the old quarters, including the abandoned ones.
Oman is one of the world’s largest producers of frankincense resin. Incense burners are everywhere, from the simplest clay ones to the most precious handcrafted silver ones...
Hospitality will often lead you to accept a small coffee, an "Omani coffee," very light, subtly flavored with cardamom, maybe a touch of saffron, and occasionally rosewater.
Here, I’ve depicted a man in the common everyday attire of Omanis: the dishdasha, mostly white (during the week and daytime; colors are more common in the evening or on Fridays and Saturdays). While you’ll see some men dressed in Western clothes, they’re very few. The white dishdasha is truly the shared attire of all men. The dishdasha, which has no hood, is distinguished by a small pom-pom attached to the collar, the furakha, which is soaked in perfume. And believe me, Omanis go overboard with it! "It smells like the pom-pom" is an expression that’s now part of our shared language, my husband and I.
Another must of men’s attire is the kuma, a small round head covering, usually white with brightly colored patterns. The keffiyeh is also worn (but without the cord called an agal in Arab countries), and it’s mostly worn by those with roots in the desert, from what I understood.
And what about the women, you might ask? Some are veiled, some in full black (but not a burka—more like a chador + abaya), due to the influence of Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates, whereas the traditional outfit used to be a layering of very colorful dresses. Most of the women we saw wore neutral clothing, a plain veil over their hair, but with their faces uncovered. We also saw many saris and colorful veils—don’t forget that 40% of the population consists of Indian, Nepalese, and Bangladeshi immigrants, who work a lot in tourism, hospitality, restaurants, services, and construction.
Just to clarify, as a tourist, there’s no pressure to wear a veil, and never any disapproving looks. Of course, you’ll save the mini shorts, plunging necklines, bare shoulders, and midriffs for the hotel terrace—but I’d say that’s the same for men and women, and with the sun being strong, it’s better for your skin too.
Here’s the introduction! In the next post, I’ll tell you about my itinerary, and we can dive in!
My buddy Christian and I (Patrick) are off for 28 days in Argentina in March.
We’ve already shared several trips as a duo (Bolivia Peru, Namibia, Laos, Costa Rica).
Since we’re starting from the idea that at our age (65) we won’t be coming back here—there are just too many other corners of the world to discover—we did the "grand tour" of Argentina, with 6 domestic flights to make the most of our 28 days.
Here are our stops:
1) Departure from Brussels to Buenos Aires via Madrid
2) Arrival and first contact with Buenos Aires
3) Early morning flight to Ushuaia. Boat trip on the Beagle Channel
4) Ushuaia: hikes in Tierra del Fuego National Park
5) Ushuaia: last hike and flight to El Calafate
6) El Calafate to El Chaltén by bus. First hike
7) El Chaltén: hike
8) El Chaltén: hike
9) El Chaltén: hike and bus back to El Calafate
10) El Calafate: Perito Moreno Glacier
11) Flight to Bariloche. Car rental and surrounding areas
12) Seven Lakes Region
13) Nahuel Huapi National Park region
14) Flight to Salta. Car rental
15) To Tilcara
16) To Humahuaca
17) To Purmamarca
18) To Jujuy via the salt flats
19) To Cafayate
20) Around Cafayate
21) To Cachi
22) Back to Salta
23) Flight to Iguazu
24) Waterfalls on the Argentine side
25) Waterfalls on the Brazilian side and flight to Buenos Aires
26) Buenos Aires
27) Return flight
28) Morning arrival
Happy reading!..
We landed in Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, and headed straight to Kasane in Botswana to pick up our car.
Our vehicle is a 4x4 because in Zambia, it's practically impossible to use anything else, especially in the national parks. I’ve already had the pleasure of visiting South Luangwa National Park—it’s one of the reasons for this trip, the main one being to travel in Africa with one of my sons.
First stop: Livingstone on the banks of the Zambezi River. Along the way, we discovered a lovely restaurant at Socrates with a super-friendly owner (we’ll actually stop there again on our way back). We spent our first night in the rooftop tent after a stunning sunset, accompanied by the grunting of hippos in the river.
The next day, we set off early, heading to Kafue NP. In fact, we’ll always leave early—waking up between 5:00 and 5:30 AM and hitting the road an hour later. Kafue is a lesser-known park, mostly forested, and the animals are skittish because they’re not used to human presence. We crossed the park from south to north and came across various antelopes. Near Lake Itezhi-Tezhi, there are plains where wildlife is easier to spot.
After Kafue, we headed to South Luangwa. This journey requires stops in Mumbwa and Petauke. Two pleasant stops where we found lodges (a nice change from the rooftop tent) at affordable prices and met welcoming people.
For me, South Luangwa is Zambia’s most beautiful park—the river is stunning, the landscapes are gorgeous, and there’s a wide variety of wildlife, including, of course, big cats. A tip for those, like us, who aren’t with a guide: if you’re staying near the park for several days, don’t hesitate to do a "game drive" to scout out where the animals are so you can return the next day with your own vehicle. Of course, in the dry season, you’ll want to focus on waterholes to see the animals—and you’ll need a bit of luck too. The elephant population is growing, and we were lucky enough to see around sixty elephants crossing the Luangwa at dawn, spread across several groups. South Luangwa is the westernmost point of our trip, and we’re now heading east to Lower Zambezi.
Lower Zambezi is Zambia’s side of Mana Pools on the Zimbabwe side. We took a boat ride on the Zambezi to see elephants, hippos, crocodiles, and a multitude of birds living along the water and on the river’s islands. The sunset there is also magnificent.
To explore the park, we followed the waterways parallel to the Zambezi, mostly on the western side (see our route). Lower Zambezi is the last park we visit, and the final leg of our trip will be Victoria Falls.
Victoria Falls—or Mosi-Oa-Tunya ("The Smoke That Thunders")—are truly impressive, even during the dry season. We saw the falls from both countries: in Zambia for the overall view and the bridge that serves as the border, and in Zimbabwe to get as close as possible to the most spectacular parts of the falls.
This marks the end of our trip, which, despite a blown tire on the road, went off without any major issues. Zambia is a beautiful country that immerses you in wild, still-preserved nature.
The latest travel journal about Turkmenistan dates back to 2019. Here’s a quick update on this vast desert country, which is now a bit easier to visit than before.
This is my first travel journal. If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask. The country is slowly opening up, but it’s still possible to visit sites where you’ll be completely alone. In five days, I saw two Hongkongers, a few Germans, and a Chilean at the crater, ten Chinese people in a capital bazaar, and that’s it!
It’s possible to visit Turkmenistan from Uzbekistan. The easiest and most economical way is to take a taxi to the border from Bukhara. The trip takes a little over an hour.
Crossing the border takes quite a while because many Turkmen bring back items bought in Uzbekistan to resell in Turkmenistan. For example, diapers, baby products, or beauty products.
It took me over 2.5 hours to cross the border. To visit Turkmenistan, it’s mandatory to have a guide and go through a travel agency. British agencies often offer three-, five-, or seven-day trips for over 1,500 or 2,000 €.
But if your budget is more limited, you can contact a few Turkmen agencies directly by email, and they’ll make you an offer between 700 and 1,300 € for three to seven days. I took a five-day trip from Turkmenabat in the northeast of the country to Dashoguz in the north. The goal was to visit the main UNESCO-listed sites, including Merv, and archaeological sites like Nisa or Gonur Tepe.
Your guide will also be your driver. They’ll pick you up at the border. The formalities are very long because customs officers have to stamp multiple documents, and obtaining the visa you previously requested from your travel agency requires several checks. But the process goes relatively smoothly, even if each step takes a while.
Once on the other side, the first surprise is the brand-new highway all the way to Turkmenabat. A very long line of trucks stretches for several kilometers on the Turkmen side to cross the border into Uzbekistan. According to my guide, Turkmen trucks transport gas and cotton (though not this season, since the harvest is in September), but they mainly fill up their tanks because fuel is much cheaper in Turkmenistan. A full tank for a car costs about 3 €, which is unbeatable.
From the Farap border post, the goal is to reach the city of Mary, which is home to the UNESCO-listed site of Merv in its suburbs, about thirty kilometers away. This city is known as a foundation by Alexander the Great in the 4th century BC under the name Alexandria of Margiana. Several fortresses are visible.
After more than three hours on the road, we have lunch at a Turkish restaurant called Aladdin. Several quotes from the president are visible along the highway, but the road is in good condition, and we move along easily. This will be by far the best road in the country—things will get much worse later.
Roundabouts are particularly interesting because they feature emblems of Turkmen culture, like the dog, a carpet, the Ahal Teke horse, or Muslim symbols, even though the presence of Islamic artifacts is quite limited.
This time, I landed in Monastir on a direct flight from Nice, again with Tunisair. We left about ten minutes late, and the flight lasted around 1 hour 30 minutes. A meal was served on board (cucumber salad with Edam-like cheese, carrots, and two small portions of dishes I couldn’t identify—semolina with peppers, olives, and parsley, two small rolls, a square of processed cheese, and a chocolate cake). It’s worth noting because it’s not common on flights this short.
In February, France and Tunisia were in the same time zone, but now Tunisia is one hour behind. This time difference and the flight duration work perfectly for a short 15-day trip since it takes me a few days to adjust to jet lag.
Luckily, I’d asked my hotel about the taxi fare from the airport because the drivers (there were several around me) didn’t hesitate to quote outrageous prices. The actual fare is 20 dinars, but one asked for 120 dinars. I refused, and another offered 60 dinars. I replied, "That’s too expensive—I’ll take the metro!" (Having tried the Tunis metro, I had no desire to repeat the experience in Monastir with a suitcase!). I started walking toward the metro, and one of the drivers caught up with me, saying, "20 dinars is fine!" I’ll skip the details, but the negotiation took a little while.
When I arrived at the hotel, I told the receptionist someone had asked for 120 dinars. He put his hands to his head and said, "They’re awful!" He remembered our phone call two days earlier when I’d booked (he’s the one who told me I could take the metro).
The Mezri Hotel isn’t expensive. I got a sea-view room for 75 dinars (22 €). (I’d booked a balcony room for 90 dinars but wouldn’t have had time to enjoy it.) It’s well-located but noisy because there’s no double glazing.
The receptionist is a very kind older gentleman. He called a friend whose wife is from Tozeur to find out if I should take a bus or a *louage* tomorrow and what time.
I arrived at the hotel around 7:00 PM and had time to stroll along the corniche to the ribat. Despite some run-down buildings, the seaside seemed livelier and cheerier than Sousse’s.
Monastir is the hometown of former president Bourguiba. I passed his mausoleum by taxi. There are Tunisian flags along the avenue by the sea because every year on April 6—the anniversary of Habib Bourguiba’s death—the president of the Republic visits the Bourguiba Mausoleum in Monastir to pay respects.
The taxi driver mentioned other Tunisian presidents. He complained about rising prices and insecurity, blaming President Kaïs Saïed (I’d already heard that security was better under Ben Ali).
At the end of my stay, I’ll take time to explore Monastir, but tomorrow morning, I’m off to Tozeur—a long bus ride awaits me.
Here we go!!!
I left home at 4 AM on October 31st and headed to Barcelona. Driving through Barcelona on the ring road stresses me out a bit, but at 6 AM the traffic is smooth, and I arrive at the airport without any issues. I call the valet, who quickly comes to pick up my car. He takes photos of it from all angles before letting me go.
Baggage check-in hasn’t started yet, and there are already several of us waiting.
Once free, everything happens very quickly. The flight to Abu Dhabi is on time and goes smoothly. I’ve never had any problems with this airline, which I’ve been using for several years.
The flight to Bangkok arrives at 7 AM as scheduled. This is my first time in Thailand and Bangkok. I’m used to traveling in India, and I notice that everything here is well organized—the customs process is quick, and the luggage is already on the carousel.
I booked a taxi on Booking. All I have to do is find the right exit and door based on the agency’s instructions. A large sign with the names of people who booked is posted on a wall. A hostess greets me and calls the taxi, which arrives 5 minutes later. I booked one night at the Lost Inn BKK hotel in the Phra Nakhon district, and we arrive at 9 AM. The welcome isn’t warm, and I have to wait until noon, sitting on a chair, before I can check into my room. I’m exhausted, and sleeping sitting up isn’t ideal. Noon finally arrives—the room is small but clean, which is fine for one night. I quickly take a shower to wake up because I plan to spend the afternoon visiting the Grand Palace. First, I need to exchange some money, and the banks are all close together on the same street, which is very convenient. When I enter one, a hostess gives me a ticket and invites me to sit down. There are about twenty counters, and I wait quietly until my number is called. The exchange is quick, so I can head out to find the Royal Palace. It’s actually very easy, and the walk is pleasant.
Entry to the Royal Palace (500 baht).
It’s magnificent and grand, and there are quite a few of us visiting. The sky is gray, it’s very humid, and a shower interrupts the visit. It’s a vast complex of temples and palaces. The buildings are colorful and sparkling, with a great sense of serenity (without the tourists, of course). I quietly enjoy the place and try to take photos without tourists, which isn’t easy.
Very close to the Grand Palace is Wat Pho, one of the oldest Buddhist temples in the capital.
It’s very famous for its 46-meter-long reclining Buddha statue.
Walking around the temple, you can see different representations of Buddha, all covered in gold leaf.
Inside the temple, on one side, monks recite their prayers, while the other side is reserved for tourists who come to meditate in silence.
Before returning to the hotel, I have dinner at an Indian restaurant. I go to bed early because tomorrow’s wake-up call will be very early again.
Saturday, November 2nd
Wake-up at 4 AM, departure from the hotel at 4:30 AM. The taxi I booked via Booking is waiting for me and takes me to the airport. The trip is fairly quick—he takes small roads, and at this hour, there’s no traffic.
The flight to Phnom Penh is on time. Before boarding, I realize I left my fleece jacket on the carousel, but it’s too late to go back for it.
The flight goes well, and customs is quick.
At the exit, I take a tuk-tuk to Julieka’s GH near the museum. The welcome is friendly. I won’t be able to check into my room until noon, so I take the opportunity to exchange some euros on the market street. The street is lined with restaurants, and I’ll have my first meal there.
The museum is right across the street, so I don’t waste any time visiting it.
The representations of Hindu deities are very different from those in India, and I don’t recognize them. Many beautiful Buddhas are on display.
The museum is very pleasant, and there aren’t too many people, which is a plus.
At the exit, I return to the GH, settle into my room—which is decent and clean.
The Royal Palace is 1 km away. I walk along a garden, and at the end of the street is the Tonlé Sap, but I turn right. I arrive at a large esplanade and see the buildings with tiered roofs and glazed tiles. The entrance to the palace is a little further away.
At the entrance, I notice there isn’t the same crowd as at the one in BKK.
Khmer architecture is magnificent. The complex consists of gardens, palaces, pagodas with golden roofs, and slender spires.
The Silver Pagoda houses the small Emerald Buddha, which is actually made of jade. The silver flooring is covered with carpets. Photos are not allowed.
The walls surrounding the pagoda are covered with frescoes depicting scenes from the Ramayana.
My partner and I traveled from Sunday, July 5, 2026, to Wednesday, July 22, 2026.
We spent a long time debating whether to rent a car or use public transportation. In the end, after reading so many posts about travelers getting scammed by police or rental companies—even those recommended by blogs and reviews—we decided to stick with public transport. It worked out really well. Sure, we had a little less freedom to go where we wanted, but it was way less stressful for us.
Sunday, July 5:
Arrived at Cancun Airport. Withdrew cash from the ATM in the terminal just before exiting. The ADO bus counter (they pronounce it "A-Jee-O") is right behind you when you're facing the ATM. Bus to downtown Cancun cost 145 pesos per person.
Stayed at "Rose 5," booked on Booking. The studio was super clean and perfect for one night. The owner’s instructions for accessing the place were very precise, with photos included. Check-in was self-service with a code. The ADO bus terminal isn’t far, and there are shops and restaurants nearby. We really appreciated that the AC was already on when we arrived. By the way, I’d recommend always booking places with AC—it’s *really* hot in Mexico.
Monday, July 6:
Bought a SIM card with data from a TELCEL store. My partner, who’s on Free Mobile, was able to use her regular plan. Just so you know, I found the network pretty unstable. As soon as we left the cities, neither of us—me with TELCEL or her with Free—had any signal.
Another thing to watch out for: roaming charges. I had to turn my SIM back on for less than 30 seconds to get a bank SMS code, and my phone apparently connected to the internet—resulting in an 8-euro roaming fee.
Left on an ADO bus to Chiquila for 278 pesos per person. During our trip, ADO buses were always on time, comfortable, and clean. The AC is *cranked* though, so bring something to cover up with—it gets cold. Some routes were fully booked even in the low season, so try to reserve 1 or 2 days in advance either via the app (when it works) or at the counter.
When we arrived at the ADO terminal in Chiquila, the ferry company counters were right next to it. Ferries leave every 30 minutes, alternating between companies, so no need to book ahead. Just take whichever one is leaving next (330 pesos per person).
When we got to Holbox (pronounced "Hol-bosh"), we’d booked a place via Booking called "Casa de Nana." It was a huge studio with a fridge, cooking plate, and utensils. The best part? The *location*. It was 100 meters from the beach and 200 meters from a Chedraui supermarket. They provided bath towels and beach towels, and the AC worked perfectly. There’s a key box so you can leave your keys inside when you go out. The only downside was that no one was there to let us in when we arrived, so we had to wait a while. The Wi-Fi was good, which was lucky because during our 4-day stay in Holbox, the phone network *never* worked. According to locals, that’s pretty common in Holbox, along with water outages.
Luckily, I’d had the good idea to download an offline map, which helped us find our way back to the place more easily. You can walk there from the dock.
The restaurant next to our place (La Barracuda) was great if you like seafood—I’d recommend their octopus dishes.
Tuesday, July 7:
We did a kayak tour in Holbox’s mangroves at 6 AM. We were looking for a sunrise kayak tour with a French-speaking guide. That’s exactly what we got with "Kayaking Holbox," where Diego, the owner, speaks English and French. He was joined by Gustavo, another guide.
We’d booked for a group tour, but we were the only ones. Diego still went ahead with it instead of canceling due to lack of participants, so we got a private tour at the group rate—really professional of him. They showed us this amazing ecosystem for over 3 hours. We saw all kinds of birds: pink flamingos, pelicans, egrets, frigatebirds... rays, a horseshoe crab, and a little crocodile that was *so* well hidden. Diego and Gustavo have a real eye for spotting animals—I could’ve passed by the crocodile 100 times and never seen it, it blended in so well. Their explanations about the flora and fauna were super interesting. We also got a little break where we tasted mangoes and bananas that taste *nothing* like the ones in France. A real treat—those little Mexican yellow mangoes! I’d definitely recommend Diego and his agency for a French-language kayak tour (1000 pesos per person).
In the evening, we walked to Punta Coco to see the bioluminescence. No need for a guided tour—if you really don’t want to walk, you can take a taxi. At Punta Coco, you have to pass the beach bar/restaurant and then go left into a kind of inlet that forms a lagoon. You have to wiggle your feet or move your hands in the water to create movement, which makes the light appear. Just don’t expect the kind of photos you’ve seen online—they’re all edited! It’s fun to see, but you won’t be dazzled by the light...
Wednesday, July 8:
Whale shark tour with "My Holbox Tours." Why recommend this agency over others for swimming with whale sharks? Simply because Valérie surrounds herself with top professionals to make your experience unforgettable. We were with Captain Fernando, who does everything to position the boat perfectly and make your swim easier. In the water, we were with Humberto, who also goes above and beyond to make sure you have an incredible time. He doesn’t just "supervise" like some guides from other companies who leave you on your own. No, Humberto reads the whale shark’s trajectory and guides you—all you have to do is follow him. He really puts in the effort, even holding your hand to guide you through this quick but intense encounter. Humberto also films the moment and will offer to show you the videos and sell them to you. His footage is really high quality.
Fernando and Humberto also prepared food for us. Special mention for their guacamole! Valérie is there to make sure everything goes smoothly on the boat and to answer your questions in French, English, or Spanish about these animals. If you choose My Holbox Tours, you can be sure you’ll get a top-notch experience.
About the tour itself: before you go, you should know that the sharks can be *really* far away. The day we went, it took 3.5 hours by boat to reach them. The boats are small, and let me tell you—on the way there, when we weren’t going with the waves, it was *rough*. Out of 9 passengers, 4 got seasick. But once you’re face-to-face with the shark, you forget all about that. Even if swimming with a whale shark isn’t exactly a walk in the park—they swim pretty fast, so you need some endurance to keep up. You’ll usually get 2 turns. Our first swim lasted a little over 4 minutes, and the second about 2 minutes because the shark was moving fast and we were still tired from the first swim. It might seem short, but when you’re swimming, it feels *long*. Either way, it’s an experience you *have* to do—but choose your company wisely. On the way back, there’s a stop at Cabo Catoche. Honestly, the snorkeling is pretty disappointing if you’ve done it elsewhere in the world. But the lunch stop at Cabo Catoche is really nice for relaxing (white sand and hammocks).
Thursday, July 9:
Short morning walk to Punta Mosquito at 6 AM. Really nice.
Ferry to Chiquila (330 pesos per person) + ADO bus to Valladolid (300 pesos per person).
In Valladolid, we booked "Casa Lucia" via Booking. The hotel is gorgeous, with a colonial style, and very close to the ADO bus terminal and downtown. It’s super quiet and clean. There’s a shared kitchen you can use with a fridge, microwave, and water dispenser, plus a big table by the pool and a nice indoor terrace. Breakfast was simple but included. The only small downsides were the tiny room and bathroom, no mirror in the room, and a noisy fan.
Friday, July 10:
Not far from the ADO bus terminal is the colectivo station for Chichen Itza. They offer a round-trip to Chichen Itza with an option to stop at Ik Kil cenote on the way back and then drop you off in Valladolid for 370 pesos per person (Ik Kil entrance included).
For the Chichen Itza visit, we’d booked a tour with a guide often mentioned in groups—his name is Juan Pat. He’s a Maya who lives near the site and speaks excellent French. He reserves spots in advance for you and queues up to be the first on-site. It cost 500 pesos per person + entrance fees. His tour lasts 2 hours and focuses mainly on the main pyramid and the ball court. He’s passionate and fascinating, even if some of his claims, as a Maya, might be a little biased. I think it’s *really* important to have a guide—otherwise, you’ll miss so much. You can contact Juan Pat on WhatsApp at +52 985 121 2381.
Afterward, we went to Ik Kil cenote (showers and life jackets mandatory, lockers available). It’s *very* crowded, but still really beautiful with its lush vegetation.
Saturday, July 11:
Since we didn’t have a car but still wanted to visit other cenotes that seemed hard to reach by public transport, we decided to book a taxi for the day. We agreed on 1200 pesos to take us to 3 different cenotes and wait for us at each one. (To find taxis, just look where they park near the ADO bus station.)
He picked us up at Zaci cenote, which we’d walked to. We got there at opening time and were the first ones there—had the place to ourselves for a while! 150 pesos per person. A pretty cenote in the city center with lush vegetation. It’s a bit like Ik Kil but without the deep cylindrical effect.
Cenote Xcanahaltun: the most beautiful cenote we visited. Entry 250 pesos per person. It’s a closed cenote with a hole that lets light in—a cave-like setting. You can kayak inside. There are little fish at the edge that nibble dead skin off your feet. Since it’s closed, the water is *freezing*!
Cenote Palomitas: entry 250 pesos per person. Another stunning closed cenote, even more enclosed than Xcanahaltun. The hole in the ceiling is smaller, so it was pretty dark when we arrived—kind of an eerie vibe. But when the staff turned on the lights, it looked like a "Gothic cathedral" full of bright stalactites.
Cenote Sac Aua: entry 290 pesos per person. The ticket includes a guided cave tour (tip-based). This cenote is really unique with its central island and way less crowded than Suytun. Just so you know, the water is *really* cold in cenotes. In these three, in July, we had the place to ourselves for a while and never saw more than 2 families at once—so peaceful!
Sunday, July 12:
ADO bus to Bacalar (536 pesos per person).
In Bacalar, we stayed via Airbnb with a host named Luli, who offers several rooms with shared bathroom and kitchen.
The room is nicely decorated in a pleasant setting. It’s ideally located near the lagoon and downtown. The shared kitchen is handy. The mosquito net over the bed is useful because there are *a lot* of mosquitoes in Bacalar. Luli provides a water jug, which is really nice. The only big downside is the lack of water pressure in the shower—we had to rinse off by filling a bucket. Also, there’s no real door separating the room from the bathroom. We never met Luli in person, but she was very responsive via messages. The terrace in the middle of the vegetation is lovely.
From the ADO terminal to the place, we took a taxi for 40 pesos. Since this driver was honest about the price (we’d checked beforehand), we decided to use him every time we needed a taxi in Bacalar. Here’s his WhatsApp: +52 983 184 3585.
Monday, July 13:
We did a boat tour on the lagoon with "Bacalar Francophone Activities." Since we were just the two of us, it cost 3500 pesos. If we’d managed to be 4 people, it would’ve been 1000 pesos per person.
We had a private 4-hour tour on the lagoon with Steeve and his very comfortable boat. He’s from Quebec, so his French is perfect. During those 4 hours, Steeve showed us the lagoon’s iconic spots *and* places other boats don’t go. He told us about the lagoon’s history and gave great tips on where to go and where to eat. As a little bonus, he gave us a video taken with his drone during our swimming break.
Tuesday, July 14:
We went to Los Rapidos by taxi (400 pesos round trip) and entry was 225 pesos per person. It’s *very* touristy but really beautiful. You can eat there (expensive), relax, and go down the "rapids" as many times as you want. It’s worth it if you spend a few hours there. You can’t bring in food or drinks—you leave them at the entrance and pick them up on the way out.
Wednesday, July 15:
On Wednesdays, navigation is banned on Bacalar Lagoon, so we’d planned another excursion.
Visit to Calakmul from Bacalar with ABCtours (WhatsApp +52 983 319 8359).
This agency organized a trip from Bacalar to Calakmul with a French-speaking guide. Communication beforehand via WhatsApp was smooth. Mr. Checo, the driver, and Fernando, the guide (who spoke great French), picked us up on the day. Mr. Checo drove very carefully on the long road and always made sure we were comfortable. Fernando is passionate about flora and fauna—he’s a biologist with a degree in ornithology, so he knows *everything* about animals. The slightest sound or song, and he knows what it is. He’s got an eye for spotting them, from the biggest to the smallest.
During the trip, we stopped at km 27 for a short forest walk, then went to see the two main pyramids on the site. On the way back, we stopped at the bat cave for the magical spectacle of millions of bats flying out at dusk. In the end, we saw or glimpsed (some briefly) spider monkeys, howler monkeys, a toucan, 2 tapirs, turkeys, 2 deer, and lots of birds. If, like us, you’re more into flora and fauna than archaeology, I’d *highly* recommend this agency and tour with Fernando.
It’s not cheap, but the road between Bacalar and the site is *long* (3.5 hours). Price: 3900 pesos per person for 2 (3500 for 3, 3200 for 4).
Thursday, July 16:
ADO bus to Playa del Carmen (614 pesos per person).
In Playa del Carmen, we stayed in an Airbnb. The building is on the town hall square, next to the casino.
The best thing about this place is the *location*—super close to Fifth Avenue (La Quinta). The kitchen is pretty basic, but the fridge works well. There are supermarkets nearby. The rooftop pool is really nice. The two big downsides, though, are the soundproofing (you can *hear* the neighbor’s alarm and all the events on the square) and the *total* lack of water pressure in the shower. We had to fill a trash can with water to pour over ourselves. When we told the owner, he said it wasn’t normal and someone would come fix it, but we never heard back. Based on previous reviews, this seems to be a known issue that never gets resolved.
Playa del Carmen is *very* touristy on Fifth Avenue, but in a fun, musical vibe—we never felt unsafe. There are *tons* of little souvenir shops for tourists on this street. There’s a beautiful monumental sculpture on the beach (the two figures meeting in the air), next to which you can see the Voladores show (men climbing a pole, tying themselves with ropes, and descending headfirst while "flying" around the pole). The show is tip-based and happens several times a day. In our opinion, Calle 38 is prettier than Fifth Avenue—it’s lush, green, and quieter, with the sea at the end. Great for an early evening stroll. We had really good meals at great prices at "El Tio Noy" tacos, just a few meters from Fifth Avenue in a side street.
For souvenirs, we’d recommend going to Walmart instead of Fifth Avenue—you’ll find skulls, tequila, mezcal, keychains, mugs, glasses... at good, fixed prices.
Friday, July 17:
We did the excursion to Isla Contoy. Isla Contoy is an uninhabited, highly protected island. Only 200 people are allowed to land per day on a rotating basis, so only a few companies have permission to dock there. Most agencies subcontract the day to a third-party company.
We booked through VRM (Viviendo Riviera Maya), but it was Ocean Tours Mexico that handled the tour. Contoy is a little paradise. We were accompanied by multilingual guides, including French speakers, throughout the day. Steffy gave us info about the island during a short walk on the marked trails, and Leño Tlatemoa kept the mood up on the boat rides with music and dancing. Isla Contoy is *truly* stunning, and the lunch was delicious: grilled fish and chicken, guacamole and tortilla chips, rice, fruit, drinks (everything is brought and taken back by the guides). The snorkeling part was pretty disappointing if you’ve done it in Cozumel, though. The stop at Isla Mujeres isn’t very interesting either—it’s too short to explore, and the island is *extremely* touristy. Still, the excursion was very well organized, and we had a great day (2970 pesos per person).
Saturday, July 18:
We wanted to go snorkeling in Cozumel but thought the prices from French-speaking agencies were too high. Plus, for snorkeling, we figured we didn’t *need* a French-speaking guide.
So we found a much cheaper solution by taking the ferry from Playa del Carmen ourselves and choosing an agency in Playa. The round-trip ferry cost 663.50 pesos per person. Then we took a taxi to the snorkeling boat (100 pesos). The agency we chose is called Mystic Snorkel—they don’t have a physical office. The tour cost 1400 pesos per person. It was a small boat, but that day we were the only ones, so we got a private tour at the group rate. We stopped at 4 different sites, all very different and beautiful. We saw all kinds of fish, corals, a nurse shark, and turtles. El Cielo, with its huge starfish, is *exceptional*. If you’re going snorkeling in the Yucatan Peninsula, this is *the* tour to do—the other sites are pretty "poor" in comparison.
Sunday, July 19:
Morning dive with Triton Diving. I chose the Cozumel dive option. Great experience.
Booking via WhatsApp was easy. On the day of the dive, Selene, who speaks French, was our guide. She’s *very* attentive to the group’s safety. The briefings are clear and precise. In Cozumel, we did 2 very different sites: the first was a drift dive with lots of life—beautiful corals and fish. The second was a wreck, the C53, a 56-meter boat you can enter. Not much marine life, but a beautiful wreck intentionally sunk for divers—still in great condition. An unforgettable moment. Selene even took videos during the dive, which the club sends you for free afterward. I’d *highly* recommend this club.
Just so you know, in Playa del Carmen, the beaches were full of sargassum during our stay, despite barriers and daily cleanup. Locals told us the problem is getting worse and the sargassum is arriving earlier in the season. Tourism has taken a *big* hit this summer, and they’re wondering if tourism can even survive the sargassum season anymore. A lot of tourists are heading to the islands—Isla Mujeres and Cozumel—to enjoy the beaches, as the west side of those islands is sargassum-free.
Monday, July 20:
Colectivo to Puerto Morelos. First, a colectivo toward Cancun that drops you off between Puerto Morelos town and Puerto Morelos beach (40 pesos per person), then another from that junction to the beach (10 pesos per person).
In Puerto Morelos, we’d booked a room via Airbnb at "Piedra del Caribe." *Best* place we stayed in Mexico. It’s an aparthotel. Our room was ready before check-in, so they let us in early. The place matched the description—spacious, with a comfortable king-size bed. The shower had *great* pressure, which isn’t a given in Mexico. The staff was super friendly and welcoming. They let us use the pool, restrooms, and rooftop shower after check-out while we waited for our ride to Cancun Airport. They even kept our luggage. I *highly* recommend this place.
In Puerto Morelos, there was *way* less sargassum than in Playa del Carmen—it was actually swimmable.
We did the snorkeling tour with the fishermen’s cooperative for 450 pesos per person for 2 hours. The reef is close to the beach (you’re not allowed to swim there), so the boat ride is short. It’s not as pretty as Cozumel, but it’s nice and affordable. On Puerto Morelos’s page, you can also access a small, not-very-well-preserved reef. There’s also a cenote in the sea where fresh water mixes with saltwater—the water is murky there. We had a great dinner and excellent cocktails at "La Choza del Puerto."
Tuesday, July 21:
Wandered around Puerto Morelos (check out the church and read everything—it’s entertaining!), relaxed by the hotel pool, and left for Cancun Airport by taxi (400 pesos) booked via InDrive to head back to France.
Our highlights:
- Holbox
- The whale shark tour
- The cenotes
- The local flora and fauna (so present!)
- Isla Contoy
- Cabo Catoche (except for the snorkeling)
What we liked least:
- The bioluminescence (barely visible despite good conditions)
- The food—we found it not very diverse in taquerias
- The constant tipping
- The lack of water pressure in showers (fixed, wall-mounted, no hose or showerhead)
Don’t hesitate to ask if you have any questions while it’s still fresh in our minds.
Here we go—finally, the big day has arrived! A trip the whole family (my two kids, my husband, and me) had been looking forward to for so long.
To keep it short, we left from Nice, arrived in Namibia on June 25, 2025, and left again on the 21st—four weeks later.
We used an agency for all the camping reservations, activities, and the car rental. At least that side of things was taken care of. Michaël was our contact throughout the planning and the trip itself.
We spent our first night at Londiningi BB. A bit out of the city center but very quiet. The rooms were spacious and clean, and we could eat on-site that evening. Perfect for recovering from the flight.
This travel journal is our second on VoyageForum, following last year’s where we recounted our four weeks in Vietnam.
The goal remains the same: since some members on this site share tips, experiences, and great deals that help us prepare for our trips, we do the same after returning—both to give back a little and in the hope that our experiences might be useful to others in some way.
Our route was as follows: Bangkok, Siem Reap, Krabi, Suratthani, Koh Phangan, Koh Tao, Chumphon, Bang Saphan, Prachuab Khiri Khan, Sam Roi Yod, Hua Hin, Phetchaburi, Bangkok.
Beyond rediscovering Bangkok, our objectives were the long-held dream of seeing Angkor and exploring southern Thailand, much of which isn’t overly touristy.
A quick big thank-you to Barbot, who took the time to answer several of our questions.
12/07/2013
The cheapest flight we found earlier this year was a Paris-Bangkok route with a layover in Moscow for 1440 €, total for two people.
So, this time we tried Aeroflot. Airbus A318 for the first leg, A330 for the second. Nothing particularly annoying to report—the passengers were very calm, the cabin temperature was comfortable, and we had enough legroom.
That said, the quality of the meal trays was pretty mediocre, and the flight attendants weren’t exactly comedians.
We’d like to remind everyone that it’s best to exchange as little money as possible at the airport upon arrival, since the rate is about 5% worse than at city banks.
Of course, we made sure to take the airport exit where you can catch official taxis to avoid getting scammed. So, we queued up, a little lady gave us the ticket, and off we went with the driver.
Generally, this system works well because these drivers are registered, know their duties, and the risks they face if they break the rules. Except that day, right off the bat, we got the scammer of the day. His first move was to snatch the ticket from my wife’s hands—the one you’re supposed to keep in case of a complaint. My husband saw it, but after a full day of travel, we were a bit out of it, and honestly, there was no reason to be suspicious. But once we started driving, the guy refused to turn on the meter. We insisted more and more firmly, but nothing. So, I used the famous method of opening the door and starting to step out of the car. At 40 km/h, that scares the driver more than the passenger. He finally turned on the meter, but that didn’t calm him down—quite the opposite. For the next half-hour, he ruined the ride by demanding extra fees here and there. Having dealt with several scam attempts last year in Vietnam, this wasn’t exactly new, and we were proud of ourselves for staying pretty zen. Still, this guy was a little scary—he was completely wired and aggressive. Honestly, it was hard not to think he was on something. He’d be perfect for a *Scarface* remake. When we finally arrived at the hotel, he followed us to the entrance. We paid the two tolls (25 and 45 baht), gave him the usual 100 baht extra for the ride, and stayed polite but firm. So, meter: 245 baht + 100 baht + 25 and 45 baht for tolls—we paid the exact amount, no way we were tipping this guy. He left furious, but he was already like that before picking us up... Anyway, avoid Mr. Chartree Chidchen, number 089 826 7308, car E2663!
We were so relieved to finally settle in at Feung Nakorn Balcony hotel in the temple district. 42 € per night, great reception, all the staff is friendly. The AC works fine, the bed seemed hard at first but turned out to be comfortable. The hotel is quiet, away from the nightlife, but at this time of year, many places are less crowded than in high season. Even with a nice fish pond and outdoor breakfast area, it’s a decent hotel, though we felt we could’ve found something better.
After a night on the plane, the first afternoon is always a bit of a slog. We napped for a few hours, and when we woke up—guess what—we were starving. We visited a temple across from the hotel (nothing special) and then decided to take the Chao Phraya Express, the river shuttle that serves many piers along the river. It was a really enjoyable experience. The steel gangway wobbles when you board and disembark, the boat sits low in the water, and sometimes you get splashed. During peak times, you’re packed in like sardines, but most of all, there’s that exotic urban landscape passing by, especially the temple rooftops.
At that exact moment, the boat was packed. We didn’t see a ticket booth at the pier, and we tried in vain to pay the few baht for the ride. The cashier on the boat was too busy, and another employee we called didn’t have time to help us. Oh well, we weren’t going to force the issue. Still, this mode of transport is super practical for avoiding traffic, and at the piers, the lines with station names are clearly marked, with colors matching the flags on the boats. Combined with a map like the *Routard* guide, it’s easy to navigate.
We easily made it to the restaurant *Harmonique*, located near one of these piers. It’s a unanimous favorite on this forum, and let us tell you—it’s well-deserved. What a wonderful experience that evening! We only saw the outdoor gazebo because there was no way we were dining inside. It’s not flashy, so those looking for a luxurious setting should look elsewhere.
That night, the staff was a bit slow, and we had to track them down several times to move things along. But oh, my friends—what a feast on the plate! Start with the appetizer platter for two at 250 baht, featuring four specialties, each more tempting than the last, followed by their famous crab curry for 200 baht. There’s *so much* crab in there! The dish is so delicious and rich that when you finish, you feel—how to put it—like it was almost *too* good, to the point where you’re almost put off eating for days. And also, oh yes, we *will* be back. Their satay chicken is just as amazing, and it would be a crime not to mention their generous dessert with ice cream, warm banana, and chocolate, plus their *excellent* almond milkshake.
Later, we took a taxi to Kao San Road, mainly to book a Ko Tao-Chumphon trip for 600 baht per person at the Lomprayah counter. In hindsight, we should’ve booked all three of our trips there right away.
Kao San Road is *ultra*-touristy—better for younger crowds, but it’s still worth seeing. There’s rock ‘n’ roll, hippies, and crowds everywhere.
We walked back to the hotel, and when we got a little lost near a canal, a really nice older Thai man spontaneously appeared out of the night to kindly point us in the right direction.
Finally, a real long night of sleep ahead—we cranked up the AC. Sweet, the vacation has begun!
Hi there,
I just got back from a trip to Sri Lanka from December 18th to January 1st with 2 adults and 2 kids (12 years old).
If it helps, here’s my itinerary.
We left on December 18th from Madrid with Qatar Airways. No complaints. I booked my tickets back in March for 800 € per person. (I flew from Madrid because I live near the Spanish border and was too worried about strikes in France.)
We arrived on December 19th at 4 PM (local time). Before leaving France, I’d booked a taxi through MyTransfer for 59 € to Sigiriya. A van was waiting for us at the airport exit.
A never-ending 3-hour drive to Sigiriya. We stayed at Samana Guesthouse—very simple, clean, with a pool and an excellent Sri Lankan breakfast. Shower and straight to bed.
Friday, December 20th: Beautiful weather, but very humid and hot. We visited Lion Rock (36 € for adults) and then Pidurangala.
I loved both sites—they’re a must-do in my opinion.
Spent the late afternoon by the pool.
Saturday, December 21st: Another gorgeous day. The guesthouse manager offered us a free 2-hour tuk-tuk tour. We first visited a lake, rice fields, the temple, and the Sigiriya market, plus the usual tourist trap—the botanical garden (no pressure to buy anything at the end).
Then we took a tuk-tuk to Dambulla Temple, the Golden Buddha, and the wholesale market.
Sunday, December 22nd: Still beautiful weather. I’d booked a taxi for 8 AM. We did all the long trips by taxi to save time. I’d ask for prices from 2 or 3 WhatsApp taxi agencies 2 days or the day before—super responsive, always got replies within 5 minutes. We headed to Ella (4-hour drive) for 22,000 LKR.
Arrived in the afternoon at Rest Full Homestay—a small, family-run guesthouse. Clean, cozy, and an amazing Sri Lankan breakfast.
In the afternoon, we went to Nine Arches Bridge. It was a Sunday, a Sri Lankan holiday, so it was *packed*—mostly locals and very few white tourists! Even though it was crowded, it was cool because it was all Sri Lankans. We waited an hour for the train. It’s worth seeing, but honestly, I didn’t think it was that amazing.
Then we headed to the station to check if we needed to book tickets for the train to Haputale—turns out, no.
Monday, December 23rd: Beautiful weather. We hiked Ella Rock—a gorgeous trek. The final stretch is steep but shaded, so it wasn’t as tough as I’d read. The whole hike is stunning from start to finish. We saw the train pass twice (one blue, one red) and lots of women picking tea.
After that, we did Little Adam’s Peak. It’s not hard, but it was *packed* with tourists—meh. Luckily, at the top, you can walk a bit farther (down one side and back up) to get some space to yourself.
What I *didn’t* like was the commercial vibe at the big café/restaurant with a pool at the entrance of Little Adam’s Peak. Loud music, all that money being made right next to little souvenir stands run by Sri Lankans or tea-picking women. Felt off.
Ended the day buying souvenirs at one of the few shops we found during the trip.
Tuesday, December 24th: Beautiful weather. Took the train to Haputale. We got to the station 30 minutes before the 9:30 AM train. We could’ve taken 2nd or 3rd class—I went with 2nd (160 LKR per person).
It was crowded, but we managed to get seats—first 2, then 3. Only a 1-hour ride, but I *loved* it—windows and doors open the whole time.
Arrived in Haputale around 11 AM, and the mist was already rolling in.
We walked to our guesthouse, The Mist Holiday Bungalow. Simple but clean, with a great view of the tea plantations. The owner’s wife is Vietnamese and used to work for French tour operators, so her French is still pretty good—helpful for us since our English is terrible. They booked us a tuk-tuk for 4:45 AM the next day (2,000 LKR) to Lipton’s Seat.
Spent the afternoon wandering around Haputale. Not much charm, but there’s a nice fruit and veggie market and a short walk through the tea plantations.
Wednesday, December 25th: Beautiful weather. The tuk-tuk was on time to take us to Lipton’s Seat. We were the first ones there—the sky was just starting to turn pink. In the end, only about ten of us watched the sunrise. The guesthouse had packed us breakfast, and we walked back down (half on the road, half through the plantations). Didn’t see any tea picking since it was Christmas, but the walk was still incredible. We took detours through villages full of kids.
After that, we visited the tea factory. The tour was really interesting, and we took the bus back down to Haputale. Such a great moment—whole families were heading to mass, dressed up and made up. All so beautiful.
At noon, we left for Udawalawe National Park. Taxi for 14,000 LKR. Stayed at River Inn Safari Cottage. *Warning*: It’s the same place as Eagle Safari Cottage. I don’t recommend it. We’d always stayed with families before, but here it was just staff—totally different vibe. The pool was nice but not very clean (water was murky). The bungalow was big and fine, but it was brand new—so new the asphalt floor wasn’t fully dry. It’s in the middle of nowhere, so we had to eat on-site. Couldn’t leave a review on Booking because they never confirmed we’d stayed, and they canceled our reservation the next day.
Thursday, December 26th: Beautiful weather. I’d booked a safari through the hotel for 5:30–10 AM for 54 USD. Honestly, yes, there are a lot of jeeps, but it was great. The kids loved it—we saw everything there was to see.
Left by taxi at 11:30 AM for Welligama (12,000 LKR).
We didn’t stay in Welligama city but at Coconut Beach, between Welligama and Midigama. *Total crush* on the guesthouse: Sky Mountain Café with View. Such a lovely family. The mom makes amazing meals at reasonable prices. The view from the hill over the sea is unreal.
Spent the afternoon walking along the beach.
Friday, December 27th: Beautiful weather. My kids are surfers. Unfortunately, there weren’t any boards their size to rent at Coconut, so we took a tuk-tuk to Welligama Bay (1,000 LKR). They surfed from 8 AM to 5 PM—rental was 5,000 LKR for the day. Meanwhile, we walked the beach and swam. Water was 29°C.
Saturday, December 28th: Beautiful weather, rain from 4 PM until midnight. Same surf day. They were so well-behaved the whole trip, so this was their reward.
Sunday, December 29th: Beautiful weather. Beach day at Coconut. *Warning*: It’s a reef break. For surfers, there are three spots (Coconut Left, Middle, and Right). The boys bodysurfed (with fins) all morning, and at 1 PM, we took the bus to Hikkaduwa.
Stayed at Hotel Universal Beach. Nothing special—right on the water, but the rooms were dark even though they were clean. The manager was super nice, but the rest was meh, and breakfast was mediocre compared to what we’d had before (2 eggs and 3 slices of toast). Plus, it was late—8 AM.
First impression of Hikkaduwa wasn’t great—way too many Russians for our taste.
Monday, December 30th: Beautiful weather. Spent the whole day exploring. Turtle Beach, then the other side of the beach (toward Galle) near the fishing port. The beach there is much wider, with scattered hotels and super quiet. It’s beautiful—I should’ve booked somewhere in that area. Ended up having a great day away from the crowds.
Tuesday, December 31st: Overcast, then beautiful, rain at 4 PM. Had to end the year (and the trip) with some surf. Rented boards for the kids (3,000 LKR per board for the day). Bad luck—the waves were on a reef break but small. Not great for them, but no big deal. They still got out of the water by 2 PM. Walked the beach (which is gorgeous), had a juice, and went for a swim. Then back to surfing in the rain at 4 PM.
Wednesday, January 1st: Left by taxi at 5 AM (18,000 LKR). Flight at 10 AM. Arrived in Madrid at 8 PM.
I could have titled my travel journal like Carmen: "Some trips are born twice." Indeed, we had considered this destination back in February 2020. However, an honest tour operator advised us against traveling at that time due to the climate. So, we gave up and opted for Guatemala instead (see "On the Mayan Lands" on this site).
So, why this title? When I was in primary school, over 65 years ago, the illustrations in my history books (Machu Picchu) and geography books (Lake Titicaca) made me dream, and those images stayed in my mind. It took until 2026 to finally make this dream come true!
We prepared our trip with Tout Pérou, a French-speaking "agency." Everything was handled via email and WhatsApp exchanges with our contact: Laurent, who was both competent, friendly, and full of good advice.
For 200 €, Tout Pérou provided us with drivers and guides whenever we wanted, helped us buy our domestic flights (cheaper when purchased in Peru), booked shuttles between airports and hotels, and got us a discount on the train ride to Aguas Calientes, as well as on the buses between Chivay and Puno and between Puno and Cusco. In short, Laurent took care of all the logistics and the Machu Picchu tickets. It was up to us to book our hotels. Tout Pérou provided a list, but we weren’t obliged to follow it. Another advantage of the package: we didn’t have to pay in advance; we paid the service providers directly day by day.
We didn’t meet Laurent in person because he was on vacation in Europe. Before his departure, he gave us a briefing, provided a summary table with the entire program, the service providers, their phone numbers, their fees, the schedules, and gave us plenty of advice (money, exchange, safety, etc.). After returning at the end of our stay, he kept checking in on us.
Lastly, we had also gathered information from Arnaud Lagadec, who runs a hotel in Cusco and offers tours of the region. He gave us a lot of useful information. Another contact: Thomas Montaigne, very friendly, who runs an agency in Arequipa (Agence Pérou Exclusif).
Day 1 – Paris to Lima
Foreword
I’ll share our trip without any pretension—I don’t have the talent of some contributors on this forum—and I’ll illustrate it with a few photos (taken with an ordinary smartphone). My comments are personal and only reflect my own views. So, please be kind! Feel free to comment on my story as you like, but let’s avoid pointless debates.
Even though we live in the south of the Paris region, true to our habits when the flight is in the morning, we chose to spend the night before our departure in a hotel near CDG and parked our car in a parking lot in Garches. This way, we avoid the stress that often comes with traveling around Paris (accidents, roadworks, traffic jams, etc.).
Check-in and border control went smoothly on that Sunday morning. Our Air France flight was uneventful. In Lima, border control took a particularly long time, and for the first time, we didn’t get an entry visa stamped in our passports.
As planned, a driver took us to the Miraflores district, where our hotel was located. We were surprised by the numerous signs about possible tsunamis, having forgotten that Peru is prone to such events and regularly experiences earthquakes. We’d see the consequences of these during our journey.
Exhausted from the early wake-up, the 13-hour flight, and the 7-hour time difference, we had dinner at the hotel before a restful night.
Note that this day was Peru’s presidential election day. As a result, we weren’t served beer—the sale of alcohol was banned that Sunday.
We did the Langtang trek (hike) from September 10th to 17th, with the first and last days being the trip from Kathmandu and back—so 6 days of actual walking. It’s a fairly well-known trek but certainly not as famous or crowded as those in the Annapurna or Everest regions, which is why we chose it.
In theory, it’s mandatory to have a guide for this trek. In reality, it seems there are ways to bypass the regulations: we met at least two people hiking without a guide—a South Korean, a New Zealander, and possibly also a couple of English women and an American couple, though we’re not sure if they had a guide.
The agency we booked with had told us it was an affordable trek for relatively older people in good shape—which is our case (I’m 72 myself). I have to say upfront that we found it quite challenging, maybe because we didn’t have good weather—it was the end of the monsoon season. To be clear, no matter your fitness level, I’d say doing this trek in the middle of the monsoon season would be suicidal.
Day 1 – Journey from Kathmandu to Syapru Besi
On Monday, September 8th, there had been violent protests in Kathmandu against the government, which had, among other things, blocked access to social media and been accused of nepotism and corruption. There were 19 deaths. The situation was very tense on the day of our departure, Wednesday the 10th. The agency warned us that public transport was very unreliable. So, we decided to take a jeep, at an additional cost of $100 ($160 minus what was already budgeted for the bus).
We left a little before 7 a.m. and it took us a good hour just to reach the outskirts of Kathmandu. Along the way, we saw several houses and vehicles set on fire by protesters.
The road to Syapru Besi is only 120 km, but it’s frankly awful. It’s always narrow, winds through endless mountains, and the shoulders range from bad to confusing to nonexistent. Several sections are just dirt tracks. We didn’t regret opting for the jeep, as we could stop several times at our convenience—if only to let Y (my Thai partner) throw up everything she had. She’d taken her usual motion sickness medication, but the constant turns, accelerations, and braking eventually made her terribly carsick.
In Nuwakot, we stopped for breakfast at a nice little restaurant, Jimbu. It was around 8:30 a.m., and we’d barely covered 60 km. The restaurant has a lovely garden overlooking the Trishuli Ganga, the river flowing down from Syapru Besi. First photo: the river in the bottom right corner, mist and clouds over the mountain on the other side.
An hour later, my second photo: the hills along the Trishuli Ganga. You can see the different crops—lush green rice paddies in the lower right and corn, already yellowed and likely harvested, in the foreground on the left. And of course, the mist and clouds through which you can glimpse the mountain on the other side of the river.
Last October, we landed in Marrakech to spend a few days with family exploring Morocco’s roads.
Transport: a rented Dacia.
Accommodations: small guesthouses.
Our first stop was just a few kilometers from Marrakech, at a lovely house perfect for relaxing and recharging before continuing. It’s called Bleu House, a little paradise on the outskirts of Marrakech. The welcome was very warm, with a beautiful pool and a lovely garden.
Next, we headed toward the Tichka Pass. The road has really improved in recent years—it’s much easier to drive now. No more getting stuck behind trucks, and today, the construction is practically finished.
Morocco has turned green after the recent rains. It’s a joy for the herds and shepherds.
We were trapped, and even our guide looked nervous. After what felt like an eternity (though it was only a few minutes), the herd finally moved on, freeing the track. That afternoon, we did a self-drive safari and—you guessed it—we had zero interest in running into elephants again.
The next day, we headed back to Lilongwe for our flight home. It was a fantastic, varied trip with some intense moments (sometimes *too* intense). Malawi offers amazing opportunities for those who want more than just wildlife reserves.
2- Around San Pedro
Vila beach
Sunset behind Santiago
The rocks and sea at Ponta Preta
At the summit of Monte Batalha
Calheta
Calheta de Baixo
The beaches just keep coming...
The dunes
The 3 coconut trees, a landmark to find the track
Boca da Ribeira beach
The hills on our right
Ribeira Dom João
Barreiro
The old track
The church in Vila do Maio
The large solidified magma massifs that shape the heart of the island have created a large depression more protected from the sun at its center, allowing the growth of a vast laurel forest, today grouped within the Garajonay National Park, La Gomera’s green lung, which has earned it the status of a World Biosphere Reserve. Its completely European appearance contrasts sharply with the rocky and tropical landscapes of the rest of the island. Thus, the climate varies greatly from one point to another on the island: in summer, you can quickly go from a dry and sunny valley at 35°C to a humid forest area at altitude at 18°C.
On the right, the "welcome marker"—those dates offered everywhere as a sign of hospitality. On the left, a tribute to those stunning doors worn by time, admired all over the old quarters, including the abandoned ones.
Hospitality will often lead you to accept a small coffee, an "Omani coffee," very light, subtly flavored with cardamom, maybe a touch of saffron, and occasionally rosewater.
Here, I’ve depicted a man in the common everyday attire of Omanis: the dishdasha, mostly white (during the week and daytime; colors are more common in the evening or on Fridays and Saturdays). While you’ll see some men dressed in Western clothes, they’re very few. The white dishdasha is truly the shared attire of all men. The dishdasha, which has no hood, is distinguished by a small pom-pom attached to the collar, the furakha, which is soaked in perfume. And believe me, Omanis go overboard with it! "It smells like the pom-pom" is an expression that’s now part of our shared language, my husband and I.
Another must of men’s attire is the kuma, a small round head covering, usually white with brightly colored patterns. The keffiyeh is also worn (but without the cord called an agal in Arab countries), and it’s mostly worn by those with roots in the desert, from what I understood.
And what about the women, you might ask? Some are veiled, some in full black (but not a burka—more like a chador + abaya), due to the influence of Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates, whereas the traditional outfit used to be a layering of very colorful dresses. Most of the women we saw wore neutral clothing, a plain veil over their hair, but with their faces uncovered. We also saw many saris and colorful veils—don’t forget that 40% of the population consists of Indian, Nepalese, and Bangladeshi immigrants, who work a lot in tourism, hospitality, restaurants, services, and construction.
Just to clarify, as a tourist, there’s no pressure to wear a veil, and never any disapproving looks. Of course, you’ll save the mini shorts, plunging necklines, bare shoulders, and midriffs for the hotel terrace—but I’d say that’s the same for men and women, and with the sun being strong, it’s better for your skin too.
Here’s the introduction! In the next post, I’ll tell you about my itinerary, and we can dive in!
Roundabouts are particularly interesting because they feature emblems of Turkmen culture, like the dog, a carpet, the Ahal Teke horse, or Muslim symbols, even though the presence of Islamic artifacts is quite limited.
Last October, we landed in Marrakech to spend a few days with family exploring Morocco’s roads.
Transport: a rented Dacia.
Accommodations: small guesthouses.