Discussion · VoyageForum

This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.

Original post

Eversmile

Veteran963 posts

2005-11-07

De retour après sept semaines partagées principalement entre les îles Toggians (Sulawesi) et Derawan/Sangalaki (Kalimantan), si ça vous intérèsse, je peux donner des infos fraîches sur ces deux destinations.

Déjà, avant les questions, voici quelques éclairages:

CHANGE : Bien meilleur à l'aéroport de Manado (guichet juste à la sortie, avant même le contrôle des passeports, je crois) qu'à Palu ou Balikpapan.

A l'aéroport de Manado: 1 Euro=12500 Rps Au money changer de Palu (je vous dit pas le plaisir de devoir aller jusqu'à Palu pour changer des euros quand on est au îles Toggians! A Ampana, le directeur de la banque aurait pu me "dépanner" à titre personnel mais pas pour la somme souhaîtée et surtout à un taux très au-dessous. Et l'ATM n'acceptait pas les cartes de crédits VISA. J'avais pas envie de repartir jusqu'à Gorontalo pour voir si leur ATM acceptait les VISA, donc, un petit tour à Palu, seulement 8 heures de route et quelques check-points autour de Poso...) donc, au "Haji La Tunrung authorised money changer" de Palu: 1 Euro= 11460 Sur Kalimantan, ça tournait autour de 1 Euro= 11300.

TRANSPORTS AVIONS:

Pas cool, la liaison Palu-Balikpapan par Bouraq a été supprimée! Donc, en venant des Toggians, deux possibilités:

1 vol de Merpati Palu/Makassar/ Balikpapan (deux vols, donc deux fois plus cher!!!) environ = 1 million de rps 1 vol de Gorontalo pour Makassar sur Lion Air+ 1 vol de Merpati Makassar/Balikpapan pour aller plus vite et pour le même prix: j'y ai pensé, mais c'est pas possible, le vol de Lion arrive à l'heure où celui de la Merpati s'envole; il n'y a pas de correspondance possible!!! Faut soit attendre le lendemaion soit...à supposer que...pour ceux qui ont envie de balancer leurs roupies par les fenêtres...y'a bien un vol... 1 vol de Lion air Gorontalo/Makassar puis, toujours avec Lion Air, un vol de Makassar à Balikpapan...oui, oui...mais qui passe par Surabaya!!!! Donc, là c'est trois fois plus cher! Ils sont rigolos!

Ensuite, à Balikpapan, pas d'avion pour Berau (=Tanjung Redeb) avant deux jours...autant remonter jusqu'à Samarinda en bus (bus 20 000 Rps pour deux heures de route) et de là, c'est plus facile pour trouver de la place sur un vol. Ceci dit, le vol Samarinda-Berau est quasiment au même prix que le Balikpapan-Berau (377000 avec Das au lieu de 500000). La compagnie Das est un peu moins cher que la Kal star. Surprise: en vol intérieur, il y a aussi des taxes d'aéroport à payer, entre 9000 et 14000 Rps.

TRANSPORTS BATEAUX-BUS TOGGIANS:

Manado-Gorontalo (Bus Veronica): 50 000 Rps . Plus de départ de bus après 15H. Entrée du port : 300 Rps Ferry Gorontalo-Pagaimana (tous les soirs): 41 500 Rps ...en places assises (on peut louer des matelas sur le bâteau, s'installer à l'intérieur ou même sur le pont). Les cabines, c'est plus cher. Pagaimana-Ampana: minibus partagé avec des locaux; j'ai oublié le prix. Ferry Ampana-Malenge: 65 000 à deux Ferry Katupat-Bomba: 50 000 à deux mais c'était spécial. Notre arrêt n'était pas vinclus dans le trajet du bâteau. Il n'a pas vraiment dévié de sa route mais il a stoppé les machines au large (pas assez de fond pour s'approcher davantage) pendant qu'un ami indonésien faisait des moulinets avec un pull à la main pour attirer l'attention des gens sur la côte, qui ont fini par tirer une embarcation à l'eau et sont venus nous chercher. On a donc sauté d'un bâteau à l'autre en mer; c'était plutôt marrant. Bus Ampana-Palu (Divina): 100 000 Rps Bus Palu-Ampana (Super Armada): 110 000 Rps . Bien plus confortable que le Divina.

TRANSPORTS BATEAUX DERAWAN: Berau-Derawan en speed boat: on m'a réclamé 1 000 000 Rps. j'ai rgolé et j'ai dit non merci. Il y a des taxis-4X4 qui partent pour Tanjung Batu le matin devant l'hotel Central Graha, devant le port: compter 50 000 Rps et 4 h de trajet. La jungle (ce qui n'a été ni brûlé ni coupé) rend le voyage agréable. la première partie de la route est nickel, super bien goudronée et on se demande pourquoi y'a pas de bus régulier. Mais d'un coup, on passe à une piste, et c'est plus cahotique; on comprend finalement pourquoi c'est encore impraticable. A Tanjung Batu, un mec va vous sauter dessus pour vous proposer de vous amener en speed boat. Negociez. 250 000 Rps c'est sans dicuter (bon, d'accord, y'a les prix du carburant qui flambent).

Ensuite, de Derawan, pour les déplacements...Faut toujours négocier. Speed boat ou sortie avec un pêcheur, c'est pas les même prix. Perso, j'aime pas trop le speed boat. C'est rapide, mais c'est pour la sécurité, surtout si on plonge, ça peut être limite. J'en connais deux qui se sont retrouvés à attendre 1 H 1/4 à la remontée, avant que le bâteau les repère et puisse les repêcher! Le temps avait brusquement tourné à l'orage et la mer était un peu démontée! Ils ont quand même pensé à se prendre en photo : on l'aurait dit extraite d'un film catastrophe!

Bon...je continuerais plus tard...

J'ai encore un peu de décalage horaire à récupérer les amis...

"Nous, on a le temps Vous, vous avez l'heure" dixit un chamelier dans le désert...

Eversmile Veteran ·2005-11-12

HEBERGEMENTS:

AMPANA:

Oasis Hotel: pas loin de l'embarcadère pour les îles Toggians, pas loin de la banque et du marché non plus...Il y a un petit jardin sympa qui donne du cachet à une des entrées...Une adresse pas mal fréquentée par les voyageurs avec des prix raisonnables.

Marina Cottage: C'est le lieu que je préfère. Plus excentré, plus serein, quelques bungalows qui font face à l'océan, l'ambiance est familiale... C'est simple mais agréable. Un avant-goût des îles Toggians. D'ailleurs, c'est là que s'ancre le bâteau de l'Island Retreat quand ils viennent faire des courses en ville. Ce qui éventuellement permet de faire le trajet en mer avec eux s'il n'y a pas de départ en ferry public le lendemain. Ceci dit, il est dommage de se précipiter vers les îles sans prendre le temps d'une journée de détente au Marina Cottage. Lieu de passage plus que de séjour, l'endroit mérite pourtant qu'on s'y attarde. D'autant que la famille qui gère le lieu est agréable. Et la cuisine est bonne.

TOGGIANS: MALENGE: Il y a deux losmens côte à côte, aussi vétustes l'un que l'autre. On a choisi le losmen Indah dont le balcon-ponton est juste un peu plus fleuri que l'autre. Les chambres sont exigües, la chaleur y est étouffante (le toit est en tôle ondulée), le générateur, juste à côté, fait un boucan d'enfer et l'interrupteur pour la lumière est une commande générale pour toutes les chambres. Donc, quand on veut dormir, il faut dévisser l'ampoule. Mais le générateur ne s'arrête pas pour autant. Les nuits sont donc un peu difficiles, sans parler des charmantes visites des moustiques... Ah oui, et les douches communes, plutôt sordides, peuvent être assez dissuasives. Sinon, c'est pas cher: 90 000 Rps à deux, repas compris. On vous proposera sans doute de vous amener à la plage, où il y a des bungalows (plus chers, bien sûr). En fait il y en a deux seulement, le lieu est aussi charmant qu'isolé... pas de vis-à vis, donc, et le losmen Indah propose de fournir à boire et à manger sur place... mais c'est encore plus sommaire qu'au losmen. Aussi jolie que soit la plage (et intéressante pour le snorkelling), on a décidé d'y passer juste la journée. Ce petit déplacement nous a été facturé 100 000 Rps. De même, une sortie à un atoll a été facturé à 100 000 Rps. Un petit mot sur le gars (il se fait appeler Dany si je me souviens bien) qui propose ses services pour les trajets en bâteau. Introuvable tôt le matin (du coup, si on veut quand même faire une sortie, c'est sous un grand soleil implacable), fait la gueule en permanence, doublé d'un air désabusé, et qu'on soit novice en snorkelling ou pas, il n'est absolument pas attentif quand on est à l'eau...il préfère faire la sieste. Il semble parfois vouloir interchanger son masque de boudeur avec un de charmeur, on se demande alors ce qu'il a à nous vendre. Je suis pas très tendre mais il se trouve que c'est à Malenge que j'ai découvert qu'on nous avait piqué 200 $. Je n'avais pas compté mon argent depuis une semaine; donc, je ne pouvais pas affirmer quand, où et qui s'était chargé de la besogne mais cet argent était rangé dans ma banane, que je n'avais que rarement quitté, et était enveloppé très soigneusement dans un papier. Il fallait vraiment avoir le temps de fouiller pour s'en emparer! Quel meilleur moment que lorsqu'on est occupé à faire du snorkelling? Je n'avais aucune preuve alors je n'ai rien dit au couple de petits vieux qui tient le Malenge Indah. Je ne tenais pas à faire un esclandre et à les embarasser mais j'en avais gros sur la patate... Plus tard, en discutant avec un des gens du coin à qui j'ai raconté ma mésaventure, j'ai appris que ce fameux Dany s'était déjà illustré à Ampana, dans une association écologiste où il était employé, où l'on s'était apperçu après quelque temps qu'il piquait dans la caisse. Je pense donc qu'il est légitime de mettre en garde toute personne se rendant à Malenge, susceptible d'avoir affaire à lui, pour que de tels incidents ne se reproduisent pas!

Dommage, car par ailleurs Malenge est un très bon coin pour le snorkelling. En particulier en atoll, c'est un enchantement. Mais il faut faire TRES attention au soleil. J'ai fait du snorkelling en tee-shirt et pantacourt pour protéger ma peau (ce qui respecte aussi la pudeur commune aux gens du coin, pas forcément habitués à voir des gens en maillot) mais j'ai oublié de protéger mes mollets naturellement découverts pendant la ballade aquatique. Résultat: Une brûlure si vive sur plusieurs épaisseurs que la peau s'est enlevée, laissant la chair à vif. J'ai boîté pendant trois semaines! Outre le climat qui ne favorise pas la cicatrisation, exposer la blessure à l'eau de mer n'était franchement pas recommandé. Mais j'étais quand même sur place pour ça: profiter du snorkelling! J'y suis donc retournée, avec de longues chaussettes! Et j'ai passé le reste du temps les pieds dans une bassine d'eau douce pour tempérer la douleur et assainir la plaie. Pas franchement ce qu'on peut rêver de mieux pour ses vacances! J'avais l'impression d'être arrimée à ma bassine d'eau comme Lynton Strachey au coussin sur sa chaise (pour ceux qui connaissent le film "'Carrington" avec Emma Thompson, excellent d'ailleurs) sauf que lui restait assis à cause de ses hémorroïdes!

La cicatrisation a pris pratiquemnt quatre semaines et deux mois plus tard j'ai toujours la peau un peu rose. Donc, faut faire gaffe au soleil!

Trajet en bateau chartérisé de Malenge à Katupat : 100 000 Rps

KATUPAT:

En fait, Katupat, c'est le nom du village. Les hébergements se trouvent sur deux îles différentes qui font face au village: Bolilanga et Pangempa.

Bolilanga est un peu en retrait. Les bungalows donnent sur une plage de sable blanc, bordée par la mangrove. Je ne peux rien en dire, je n'ai vu l'île que de loin. L'endroit semble charmant, parfait pour les amoureux.

Pangempa est plus proche du village, à deux minutes en bâteau. Là se trouve le Fadhilah Cottage. Les bungalows, spacieux, tournés vers l'océan, avec des balcons agrémentés de fleurs et de coquillages, où ont été suspendus des hamacs, ont tous une "salle de bains" adjacente, à ciel ouvert, comme un petit patio. A l'intérieur de la chambre, il y a du mobilier pour ranger ses affaires, de quoi suspendre son linge, et de larges moustiquaires au-dessus des lits qui leur donne une allure de lits à baldaquin. Autour, c'est bien ombragé. La présence de la pelouse et des petits massifs d'arbustes taillés à la française peut paraître surprenante mais l'ensemble, piqué de palmiers, aux troncs desquels se balancent des orchidées, et réhaussé en couleurs par des bougainvilliers est vraiment charmant. Le générateur est situé assez loin, de sorte que le bruit n'en est pas gênant. Après l'hébergement sommaire à Malenge, ici, c'est le Paradis! Et même sans comparer, ça reste un paradis... En plus, l'accueil de Jafar, qui tient le lieu avec sa famille, est vraiment chaleureux. Humble, cordial, l'esprit ouvert, parlant un anglais fluide qui permet de longues conversations, son contact a été pour beaucoup dans le plaisir qu'on a eu à séjourner au Fadhilah Cottage. Mais tout le monde a été adorable et on était triste en partant, de tous les quitter.

Les prix, bien-sûr, ne sont pas les mêmes qu'à Malenge. Compter 85 000 Rps par personne, les trois repas compris. La cuisine est bonne et variée, thé et café à volonté toute la journée.

Le snorkelling ici a été magique.

Bref, c'est le coup de coeur de notre séjour aux Toggians!

Ah, oui, j'oubliais, il y a bien un losmen au village de Katupat, mais celà semble très très basique et comme c'est juste devant l'embarcadère où accostent les ferrys qui font la navette avec Ampana et Gorontalo, et toutes les autres embarcations, c'est pas des plus tranquille.

BOMBA: Là encore, deux choix pour le moment.

Sur une ptite île, face au village même de Bomba, le losmen Poyalisa. Deux-trois bungalows qui donnent sur une petite plage bordée de mangrove (le snorkelling n'est pas formidable). Des copains y sont restés; on leur emmenait la nourriture en bâteau tous les jours depuis le village. Pour y loger, s'adresser aux proprio à Bomba. Je n'ai plus le prix en mémoire mais c'est pas très cher. L'inconvénient, c'est la difficulté à pouvoir circuler, à moins d'être prêt à une longue, longue nage.

Entre les villages de Bomba et de Kuling Kenari se trouve l'Island Retreat. Tenu par Sylvie, une américaine au caractère bouillonnant qui vit là depuis dix ans, c'est un ensemble de bungalows dans un décor de carte postale: une plage de sable blanc bordée de palmiers et derrière, la jungle. Le bâtiment principal abrite une cuisine et une grande véranda qui devient salle à manger aux heures des repas, un coin salon avec des banquettes, beaucoup de livres en différentes langues, (il y en a aussi quelques-uns sur les étagères dans les chambres) et des jeux (ping-pong, backgammon...). Cette partie commune est un lieu de vie très agréable. L'agencement intérieur est différent d'un bungalow à l'autre. Si c'est possible, mieux vaut en visiter plusieurs pour pouvoir choisir. Compter environ 250 000 Rps pour deux avec les trois repas inclus. C'est cher, comparé au reste des Toggians, mais la nourriture ici, est terrrrrible! C'est délicieux, copieux, varié, inventif... inspiré. On ne sauterait un repas sous aucun prétexte; on viendrait plutôt de Poyalisa à la nage rien que pour manger là! Les soupes sont délicieuses. Mmmh en particulier la soupe au potiron et au lait de coco (et pourtant dieu sait que je ne raffole pas du potiron!) mais il y a aussi les raviolis maison qui sont excellents, les chapatis, les salades, jusqu'aux potées mexicaines... des repas consistants (quand on revient d'un longue ballade en masque et tuba ou d'une plongée c'est très appréciable!) et qui changent de l'invariable routine culinaire locale: poisson-riz ou mie kuah... Ceci dit, (j'en vois déjà des inquiets) il y a aussi du poisson au menu. Mais sincèrement, une fois que vous les avez vus sous l'eau, bien vivants, avec toutes leurs belles couleurs, vous avez encore envie de les bouffer? Pas moi! Ha, oui, et il y a parfois des crêpes au petit-déjeuner!

Bon, le point noir de l'Island retreat, c'est le manque manifeste d'eau douce. Il semble qu'on demande la lune à chaque fois qu'on en réclame, on sent que c'est une corvée pour le personnel d'en fournir (ils doivent transporter un baquet à deux, c'est lourd, donc, mais un seul baquet d'eau, quand on est deux dans un bungalow, c'est loin d'être suffisant). De toute façon, le puits étant souvent vide...même si on veut se servir soi-même, il n'y a pas grand-chose à prendre. En gros, parfois, on se retrouve avec le choix: se laver ou "tirer la chasse". Mieux vaut renoncer à laver soi-même son linge! A vrai dire, ce manque d'eau est assez pénible.

Autre inconvénient: on est dépendant, pour circuler, des petites embarcations de l'Island retreat. Et pas seulement pour faire une sortie plongée ou snorkelling mais aussi pour aller aux villages les plus proches: Bomba ou Kuling Kenari. Oui, on peut traverser par la jungle, encore faut-il connaître le chemin! Le personnel a autre chose à faire que vous montrer le chemin, et s'y aventurer seul sans savoir par où passer est proche de l'inconscience. (Evidemment, j'ai voulu tenter le coup. Pour vite réaliser que j'allais me perdre et rebrousser chemin, après une petite frayeur. Mais je n'avais pas franchement renoncé. J'ai donc fini par entraîner un acolyte sportif et musclé, qui plus est, possesseur d'une boussole, pour m'accompagner. On est partis à pied ensemble avec pour toute charge: une bouteille d'eau, un bâton pour marcher et éventuellement débroussailler devant nous et la fameuse boussole...dont l'usage s'est révélé un véritable fiasco (moi, j'avais l'impression qu'il fallait aller vers la droite mais, fort de son indication scientifique, mon compagnon de route soutenait mordicus le contraire, boussole à l'appui... on a donc suivi la direction qu'il indiquait...et on est royalement revenus sur nos pas après un quart d'heure de marche !!! J'ai rigolé, il a rangé la boussole dans sa poche et ne l'a plus consulté jusqu'à la fin...) C'est sensé prendre 3/4 d'heure pour aller à Kuling Kenari depuis l'Island Retreat....si on trouve le chemin! On ne l'a jamais trouvé...on a mis 4 H! Quatre heures enfoncé dans la végétation, à galérer, transpirer, glisser, s'accrocher aux racines, (on essayait de rester en vue de l'océan pour pas trop se perdre et les pentes étaient assez raides), s'écorcher, se faire attaquer par les fourmis rouges... Bref, l'enfer. Mais, curieusement, ça été assez ludique. Comme les marais de feu dans "Princess bride" si vous voyez ce que je veux dire. Sans les RTI -les rongeurs de taille inhabituelle-! Sans même un méchant serpent ni une d'araignée velue...Mais avec les fourmis rouges et le reste, c'était déjà tellement trop qu'il ne restait qu'une solution: en rire. ... Quand on est arrivés au bout (on a vu finalement le chemin dont on nous avait parlé: large, bien débroussaillé, comparé avec d'où on venait, ç'en était surréaliste!) on était finalement assez fiers. Si notre virée a été, en définitive, joyeuse et gratifiante, celà aurait vraiment pu mal tourner et je ne saurais le conseiller à quiconque! Sauf aux amateurs de sensations fortes... par exemple, ceux qui ont déjà goûté aux joies d'un saut en parachute complètement bourrés à la vodka, à ceux qui ont déjà apprécié l'hospitalité des caïmans dans les mangroves de Papouasie-Nouvelle Guinée, ou ceux qui ont grimpé longtemps avec un vélo sur l'épaule à la recherche d'une route hypothétique qui se trouvait en fait de l'autre côté de la montagne. Ils se reconnaîtront. Et il se pourrait bien que ma petite balade leur paraisse être de la gnognotte. On a quand même fait le retour en bâteau!

Pour aller à Bomba, c'est un peu la même chanson, sauf que le départ du chemin est plus facile à trouver, au bout de la plage vers la droite quand on regarde la mer, un peu avant d'arriver au coin, il y a un sentier qui grimpe. Au démarrage, ça a l'air simple, mais c'est après que ça se complique. Il y a plusieurs embranchements, et si on sait pas où tourner, eh bien, j'imagine qu'on se perd aisément! J'ai fait le chemin à pied avec un gars du coin. Environ ne heure de marche à petite allure, sans difficulté majeure. Mais on n'encourage personne à y aller seul.

A propos de ce bout de plage au fond : la propriétaire de l'Island Retreat et ceux du Black Marlin sont en conflit sur ce bout de terrain. Conflit pour lequel une action en justice est en cours... Apparemment, une grosse embrouille...

Autre chose: mieux vaut éviter de séjourner à l'Island Retreat si vous êtes allergique aux chats. Il y en a partout. Une trentaine. Certains sont familiers d'un bungalow en particulier et en sont les locataires les plus réguliers. Mieux vaut être enclin à partager les lieux avec eux! Mais pas au point d'en oublier de surveiller son assiette au moment des repas!

Côté mer, on peut faire du snorkelling directement depuis la plage mais ce n'est pas franchement formidable, beaucoup de corail bombé. Moins enthousiasmant qu'à Katupat, c'est clair! Un snorkelling de nuit autour du ponton peut réserver quand même des surprises sympas... En bâteau, mieux vaut tenter l'île de Taupan où il y a un tombant qui vaut le coup d'oeil. Par deux fois, on nous a emmené ailleurs mais il y avait soit trop de courant (Pasir Tengah atoll), soit que des coraux morts (je sais plus où)...

Le problème c'est que, mis à mis part deux-trois personnes qui sont là depuis longtemps (dont la cuisinière, son mari et un capitaine de bâteau compétent mais malheureusement plus à la disposition de Sylvie pour ses déplacements que pour les balades en bâteau des clients) le personnel a l'air de changer souvent. Ce qui fait que, si Gus, le capitaine, n'est pas là, les gars disponibles pour conduire un bâteau ne connaissent pas forcément les bons coins où faire du snorkelling et de la plongée. Et donc, on fait chou blanc! Il faut espérer que la présence d'un instructeur de plongée viendra mettre un peu d'ordre dans ce cafouillage.

Par ailleurs, pour ceux qui souhaîtent visiter les villages bajau... à part Siatu et Kuling Kenari, c'est loin! Mieux vaut envisager d'y aller depuis Katupat ou Wakai, si vous y séjournez. Et pour les fans de plongée, Una-Una aussi, ça fait loin (et d'autant plus cher!). Le prix en hausse du carburant et les difficultés d'approvisionnement n'arrangent pas les choses.

A Suivre....

"Nous, on a le temps Vous, vous avez l'heure" dixit un chamelier dans le désert...

Nelle Regular ·2005-11-21

🙂selamat pagi!! merrci pour ton lon message sur les togians!!!!!!!!! ca fait un moment que j'avai fait une demande de news à ce sujet!! mais sans succès!!! merci!! je part 3 mois en indonésie début decembre!! 1 mois puis 3 semaines en nouvelle calédonie et 2 mois en indo!! je suis allée à sulawesie l'année dernière!! ma la mousson ma gachée un peu séjour là bas!!! pourraistu me donner des infos concernant les meilleurs périodes question pluies!!! bien que les togians soit peut etre un peu plus épargnées à cause de la distance des cotes??!! ainsi qu epeut etre des clubs de plongée à connseillé ou a deconseillé??!! mon ami et moi sommes moniteurs et aimerions bien faire quelques plongeouilles meme si on n'y va pas que pour ca!!! merci encore sampai jumpa lagi!!

Eversmile Veteran ·2005-11-24

Selamat sore!

Je comprends pas comment mon post se retrouve en carnets de voyage alors que je l'avais posté en simple sujet dans le secteur asie du sud-est...en plus, il n'y a aucune littérature là-dedans qui mérite l'appellation carnet de voyage, enfin, bon, c'est pas grave...

Concernant la meilleure saison pour éviter les pluies, il me semble que c'est l'été mais dans ce cas tu n'évites pas les précipitations de touristes. Septembre me semblait un bon compromis, pour éviter les deux mais juin pourrait faire l'affaire aussi. Pour définir quelle peut être ta saison idéale quelque part dans le monde, tu peux regarder ici: http://olala.club.fr/index.htm

En Octobre, c'était toujours bien aux Toggians. Par contre à Derawan-Sangalaki le temps avait déjà tourné aux averses, le soleil s'est fait rare et l'eau, nettement plus froide! Ce qui était effectivement assez marrant, à Bomba, c'est que les orages semblaient nous tourner autour, faisant rouler les langues noires de leurs nuages à l'horizon, mais que nous étions toujours épargnés, profitant simplement à distance des lueurs lointaines et rougeoyantes du ciel tourmenté la nuit et de très beaux contrastes de couleurs entre mer et ciel en journée...

Pour la plongée, tu pourras trouver du matériel à Katupat et à Bomba. Jafar, à Katupat, connais bien son coin et aime manifestement les richesses naturelles qui l'entoure. Il saura te conseiller pour la plongée. C'est un peu plus délicat au Island Retreat de Bomba. Sylvie ne plonge pas, et, s'il n'y a d'instructeur de plongée sur place au moment où tu t'y présentes, l'enchantement initial suscité par la beauté des lieux risque de laisser place à la frustration... Pour trouver des clubs de plongée au fonctionnement professionnel, il faut aller sur Kadidiri (Wakai). Il y a deux endroits: le Paradise et le Black Marlin. Je ne les connais ni l'un ni l'autre, donc, je ne peux pas en parler. Mais j'ai entendu beaucoup de plaintes, assez véhémentes d'ailleurs, de voyageurs comme de locaux, sur la façon d'agir du B.M, assorties du conseil d'éviter d'y mettre les pieds... tant, que je me sens obligée de mettre en garde à mon tour (sans pour autant savoir de quoi il retourne exactement) pour éviter à d'autres de futurs malheurs. Par contre, les commentaires sont déjà plus chaleureux, en ce qui concerne le Paradise, et sa propriétaire.

Bon, pour l'instant, c'est tout. Si tu as d'autres questions n'hésite pas...

Setiap hari istimewa

"Nous, on a le temps Vous, vous avez l'heure" dixit un chamelier dans le désert...

Eversmile Veteran ·2005-11-24

HEBERGEMENTS (suite)

SULAWESI:

PALU:

Penginapan Purnama Raya: Ce n'est ni un losmen (pas de nourriture inclus), ni un hôtel dans le sens occidental du terme. Le penginapan est un logement dans sa forme la plus simple, pour ne pas dire rudimentaire: une pièce nue, avec un lit, éventuellement une table, une ampoule électrique et c'est tout.

Cette adresse est tout à fait correcte. Le mandi est dans la chambre. C'est très central, près du marché. Au coin de la rue il y a une "boulangerie" agréable, où l'on peut s'asseoir, manger et boire. La vieille dame qui tient le lieu est gentille. Et c'est vraiment pas cher: 25 000 Rps en single 35 000 Rps en double

Dautre part, le neveu de cette femme, Nurlin, qui parle un peu anglais, et passe de temps en temps au penginapan, peut être d'une aide précieuse pour s'orienter dans la ville. Il connaît pas mal de monde et la ville comme sa poche. Il offre aussi ses services comme guide dans les montagnes alentours...

La penginapan Purnama Raya se situe au N° 4 de la Jalan DR. WAHIDIN.

KALIMANTAN

BALIKPAPAN:

Hôtel CITRA NUSANTARA: Une bonne adresse bien centrale, à deux pas du centre commercial "Matahari", dans une petite rue tranquille, juste derrière le croisement de la Jalan Sudirman et de la Jalan A.Yani. Il y a un peu tous les prix, avec différents choix de conforts. Les chambres les moins chères (100 000 Rps la double environ, mandi commun à l'étage, avec la douche au dessus des toilettes !🤪)donc les moins confortables, sont au dernier étage. Vu le maigre écart de prix avec des chambres beaucoup plus accueuillantes au rez de chaussée; ne pas hésiter à visiter celles-là aussi avant de faire son choix... Check-out time: 13 :00 ! Pas très loin non plus du réputé resto "Dinasty" où les gourmands pourront se régaler d'une carte au choix largissime. (On peut d'ailleurs y aller à pied sans problème de l'hôtel en 15 mn; ce qui permet de découvrir en chemin une petite boutique qui vend des jus de fruits frais).

Adresse exacte: Jalan Gajahmada n° 76

BERAU:

Hôtel CENTRAL GRAHA : sur la Jalan A. Yani, au pied de la rivière. Prix allant jusqu'à 135 000 Rps en double. A ce prix là, on a une chambre spacieuse, nickel et très confortable, avec AC et super salle de bains. La situation de l'hôtel est stratégique : le soir, la berge le long de la rivière s'anime, accueillant plein de petites carrioles ambulantes qui vendent à manger. C'est plein de monde, très vivant. On peut boire un jus, manger du maïs grillé, et papoter... Le matin, souvent à partir de 10:00, c'est devant cet hôtel que se fait le départ des 4x4 pour Tanjung Batu.

"Nous, on a le temps Vous, vous avez l'heure" dixit un chamelier dans le désert...

Teamten Globetrotter ·2009-01-08

Salut, très interessant ton post ! J'aurais une question: est il aisée de se rendre à Katupat depuis mettons, Bomba? Je t'explique: nous aimerions beaucoup allr au "fadhila" mais étant dans l'impossibilité de les joindre et donc de réserver, nous aimerions réserver peut etre à "l'island retreat" pour 3/4 jours et de la là aller voir de suite au "Fadhila" si ils ont de la place ... Merci .

Eversmile Veteran ·2009-01-08

Salut! C'est marrant, je viens de te répondre sur un autre post! Aller à l'Island retreat, c'est relativement facile. En sortir, du moins en 2005, beaucoup moins. A l'époque, pour repartir vers Ampana, on avait dû guetter le gros bateau qui faisait la liaison de Gorontalo à Ampana, embarquer à bord d'une petite embarcation pour s'en approcher, et faire des grands signes avec ce qu'on avait sous la main: un pull coloré... en espérant qu'on nous appercevrait et que le capitaine accepterait de faire stopper les machines pour qu'on puisse monter à bord. J'ai été stupéfaite que ça marche! Un bateau avec un truc genre 150 passagers à bord qui embarque deux nanas au milieu de nulle part, hahaha... mais je l'ai déjà raconté dans mon carnet. Je ne sais pas si les choses ont changé depuis?

Si tu y vas, pourrais-tu passer notre bonjour (de ma fille et moi) à Sylvie et à Tony (s'il y travaille toujours comme instructeur de plongée?) Merci..

"Nous, on a le temps Vous, vous avez l'heure" dixit un chamelier dans le désert...

Teamten Globetrotter ·2009-01-09

Merci pour tes réponses !

Pas de problème pour passer ton bonjour ( de la part de " eversmile ? " 🙂 )

Ils ont donc une adresse email au " fadhila " ? J'avais cru comprendre qu'il n'y avait pas de téléphone et encore moins internet ...

A+

Eversmile Veteran ·2009-01-10

Salut

Il avait un mail perso qu'il consultait régulièrement et c'est celui-ci qu'il m'avait donné, mais c'était pas du tout un mail officiel pour le cottage. Par contre, eversmile, non, ça lui dira rien, avec Marine il y a un peu plus de chance!

A+

"Nous, on a le temps Vous, vous avez l'heure" dixit un chamelier dans le désert...

Teamten Globetrotter ·2009-01-10

avec Marine il y a un peu plus de chance!

OK, pas de problème, si nous arrivons à aller les voir ! 🙂

MA Madoulaise ·2009-09-22

Bonjour,

Eversmile, si tu es toujours là, pourrais-tu donner quelques infos complémentaires sur les temps (approximatifs) des diverses liaisons permettant de relier manado et ampana aux iles Toggians ?

Sinon pour tout le monde, je suis à la recherche d'informations sur les clubs de plongées, transports divers et variés (coût, temps, etc..), hebergements permettant de faire 3/4 jours de plongée autour des iles Toggians (sachant que nous serons sur place donc à voir soit au départ de Manado soit au départ de Palu).

Merci à tous,

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Attila 16 hours ago

Storm in the Canary Islands

15 days across Gran Canaria, El Hierro, and a dash of Tenerife under the storm Thérèse!

The planned itinerary will be slightly disrupted...

(The version without discussions is here)

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Attila 16 hours ago

Époustouflant Kirghizistan!

Ce voyage me trottait dans la tête depuis une quinzaine d'années.

Mais l'inconfort des nuitées, la difficulté de communication, les tarifs des rares locations de voiture me faisaient remettre continuellement ce projet à plus tard.

Et puis, tout s'est un peu débloqué, je me suis dit, c'est le moment !

Les préparatifs furent plus longs qu'à l'accoutumée, la destination est encore loin d'être grand public.

Un peu de Kazakhstan ? Finalement non.

Le sud ou pas le sud ? Finalement oui.

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Pour m'aider dans ma quête du parcours idéal, j'ai grandement utilisé ce forum ( Merci à tous de m'avoir patiemment répondu ! ), épluché des carnets et des blogs de voyage ( Christian, Jeff), zoomé sur Google Maps et Yandex et acheté le guide publié par OunTravela sur cette destination ( guide mis à jour depuis).

---/---

Tu as le passeport, le permis international, les cartes bancaires et les euros ?

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Vous trouverez ici un post regroupant quelques renseignements pratiques.

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Montagnard74 16 hours ago

Turkey 2026: Riviera, Antalya, and Cappadocia

Hi everyone!

If you're looking for great tips and offbeat spots, if you love exploring uncharted parts of a country, if the exotic is your adrenaline, then move along!

Our 15 days in early May in this part of Turkey (a country I first discovered during a city trip to Istanbul in 2017) will only tread well-worn paths and revisit popular routes. Simply because I kept hoping until the very end that our flight to Jordan wouldn’t be canceled. Events in the Gulf proved me wrong, so we left with: Zero preparation. Not a single hotel booked (well, except the first one), no visits planned, just a flight ticket bought three weeks earlier. No guidebook, no app—just the desire to explore southern Turkey and Cappadocia, whose images and the chance to stretch our legs had caught my eye.

Oh, wait—I did bring along a new guide: Gemini! Yes, my friends, generative AI was my chief advisor throughout the trip for sites to visit, accommodations, routes, and even restaurants! An experiment I wanted to try to form my own opinion on using this new technology. And what better way to test it than a Turkish getaway?

The verdict? You’ll have to wait for the trip recap to find out!

The main idea of the trip is also relaxation.

So, the plan is Antalya for a few days, the Turkish Riviera for a few more, Cappadocia as the highlight, and a return via Antalya to wrap up the trip. And it was all planned by AI!

So, if you're ready, fasten your seatbelts—cabin crew, doors to automatic and cross check—boarding for Turkey now!

A little sneak peek?

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Fabhyène 2 days ago · Grandgognand

Draw Me Your Japan...

Hi there!

I’m inviting you on a stroll through my drawings—a completely subjective, far-from-exhaustive, and totally personal take, since it’s based on my own sketches. I put this travel journal together after returning in late 2024, mostly using felt-tip pens and pencils, with a few collages thrown in. I worked from our personal photos.

Let’s start with the shotengai...

Our first "wow" moment came as we stepped out of the subway in Asakusa, the Tokyo neighborhood where we’d booked our hotel for our first five nights. Exhausted after our long flight, we finally arrived and took an exit that led straight into a shotengai—one of those covered shopping streets that dot city centers and flourished between the 1950s and 1980s.

It was an instant aesthetic shock, like a close encounter of the third kind between the modern city, a typical Asian market with its street stalls, the "vintage" vibe of the arcade, the sheer abundance of goods, and the bustling crowd—a colorful mix of tourists, pilgrims (thanks to the nearby Asakusa Temple), and locals (it’s a very working-class area). In the end, it set the tone for a feeling we’d experience throughout the trip. Wherever we went, shotengai turned out to be fantastic spots for finding little restaurants, shops, or even fresh produce. Some are real mazes, like in Kyoto, where we spent ages trying to relocate a restaurant we’d loved ;-)

In Kanazawa, the Omicho Market:

And in Kyoto, the Nishiki Market:

To be continued...

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Bibouns51 3 days ago

Off on a winter adventure in the American West!

Day 1 – February 14

We all have two lives. And the second one kicks off the day you realize you only have one, with the determination to spend the time you have left on what truly adds sparkle to your life, Kevin! I like to elegantly introduce a trip with a philosophical quote. First, it gives you the illusion that I’m some kind of deep thinker, and second, it lets me fill up the first few lines of my blank page when I don’t know how to tell you I’m diving back into what really lights up my life: another adventure beyond the horizon! And nearly every other year, like a toxic relationship, my horizon tends to take shape in Uncle Sam’s backyard. And this, despite his cousin Donald calling the shots. Speaking of which, it was partly that impulsive guy who pushed us to be just as impulsive and snag our four flight tickets at a ridiculously low price—a direct result of foreign tourism taking a hit from BetaMax’s repeated antics... Four tickets? Who are the other lucky ones? In this case, our lucky ones are actually lucky ladies: My Flo, always up for exploring the world with me on foot, camelback, or scooter, is obviously in on the fun. The other two seats went to our daughters, Sasha and Luna, both thrilled to be part of this new American adventure...

But what’s the American West like in February?... A gamble. Let’s call it Russian roulette since we’re not landing during peak weather season. That’s why we encouraged our transportation and accommodation to get cozy and produce a little camper van, so we can stay ultra-flexible in the face of any weather tantrums. We’ll be roaming in Kara the van with the motto "Follow the sun!" Bad weather? We bolt. Snow? We speed up. Sunny? We act like it was the plan all along and soak it up.

"Okay, but why keep coming back to the same corner of the globe? After ten American adventures, you must be tired of seeing the same things, right?" But I’m not crazy, you know!... The American West is like making love to your gorgeous wife over and over, always enjoying it just as much. And contrary to what you might think, the American West isn’t just the Grand Canyon, Monument Valley, Las Vegas, and Bryce Canyon. Proof is, after ten trips to the U.S., my retinas are still untouched by three-quarters of the places I scribbled on a napkin for this adventure... Oh, and add to that my wife, who I’ve easily converted to my religion, and boom... relapse is even easier! Because yes, we’ve landed in Los Angeles after a sunny flight over Greenland, still under Danish flag for now. And we’re already heading east through the XXL traffic of L.A.’s eight-lane highways, eager to dive into our first discoveries. But first, night is taking over the sky, and second, we’ve been officially awake for 24 hours, so I suggest wrapping up this intro. I’ll tell you more tomorrow morning. Sound good?

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Montagnard74 3 days ago

CAPE VERDE 2025: 3 weeks, 4 islands.

And we still haven’t seen everything! Before setting off for new horizons at the end of this year, it’s time for me to share my trip to Cape Verde this summer 2025.

I particularly love these spontaneous trips, and our stay in Cape Verde is one of those because it was only at the beginning of April that we decided on this getaway, which had been catching our eye for a while, given our love for the mountains.

As always—well, when it’s open—I turned to VF, and I want to immediately thank Marie, aka ptitortue, who helped me a lot in planning this trip through her travel journals and our exchanges!

Because Cape Verde is both small and vast! We decided not to rush from one airport to another, to enjoy the places and the people, but also to relax, since the work backlog from being stuck in May (see my previous travel journal 😅) had to be caught up on in June.

So, 4 islands will be our winners from 06/28 to 07/19:

Santiago first for logistical reasons, as round-trip flights from the capital Praia were the cheapest (650 €/person from Lyon via Lisbon with TAP, still!)

São Vicente, because it’s the gateway to the next one but ultimately more than that...

Santo Antão, pretty much the main goal of the trip since Marie (and the photos) had really sold it to me.

And finally, Sal Island, for some rest—a non-negotiable condition for my other half—and we’ll see that I should’ve listened to Marie...

That said, what a chatterbox I am—buckle up, flight attendants at the doors, off we go on new beautiful escapes! (Thanks to Sophie for the easy loan)

Last note for my eager fan club 😏: yes, there will be alcohol—how could there not be in the land of grogue!

It starts here:

https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10790234;a=10790234

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Songsam 4 days ago

Far from the daily grind*

Hello, Since I enjoy not only the countryside but also everything related to rail travel, I’m starting this photo thread dedicated to trains in Thailand (I’d guess most of us have taken one at some point...). Feel free to post your pictures here as long as they fit the theme: rolling stock**, stations**, platforms, tracks (even without a train on them), technical equipment, engineering structures (bridges, viaducts), etc.—all in Thailand. For each photo, I’ll (or you can) note the station or line where it was taken. Comments and questions are welcome.

* train ** interiors or exteriors

All aboard!

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Jojoone1 4 days ago

From the Awakening to Travel to Morocco in the 90s

As I’ve mentioned elsewhere, I inherited my love of travel from my parents and some of my grandparents. A strong passion, but one that was unfortunately limited by our family’s modest resources. Back then, living in northern Alsace, a simple trip to the southern part of the region—with the Wine Route as our destination—felt like an extraordinary journey to a land of plenty for the little boy I was in the late 60s and early 70s. Everything seemed so huge when you were still just a kid. Back then, I was overwhelmed by countless sensations—I was already highly sensitive, with a keen mind and a nose and taste buds that were developing like a pro’s. Which, as I’d later realize, wasn’t always an advantage.

Those magical days always began with a gentle late-spring or midsummer morning. The interior of the white Peugeot 404, license plate 210 LZ 67, had already soaked up the sun before the engine purred to life, and the cabin gave off a scent I could still recognize today—a fragrance I found so pleasant. Back then, I had no idea it was just the smell of warm plastic from the car’s interior. Yes, the scents of the 404 on sunny days became my madeleine de Proust... What’s more, the whole family was unusually cheerful because those moments of relaxation and leisure were rare. Everyone worked, and no one had an easy job or was well paid. Without the *Trente Glorieuses*, these experiences might never have happened.

Once we crossed the canton’s borders, I felt like I was light-years away from my everyday surroundings, and every kilometer plunged me deeper into *terra incognita*. It was thrilling. Far from my so-called "medium-sized" town, wheat fields, cornfields, and cabbage patches stretched out, punctuated by tall poles connected by long wires and topped with vegetation—like giant clotheslines without laundry, where magical beanstalks might grow to touch the sky. Back then, I was still far from tasting their product, which was simply beer. At the time, there was still a significant local hop production. Fun fact: it wasn’t until 2002 that Anglo-Saxon scientists proved hops and cannabis belong to the same biological family.

After the fields, the landscape took another step up as it rolled past the little boy’s eyes, often glued to the windows. First came modest hills, then a succession of rolling slopes that soon formed an unbroken chain. Their 700 meters in altitude felt like Himalayan peaks to me—impressive, inert giants, a whole new world. Gazing at them, an intense emotion welled up somewhere between my stomach and lungs, nearly taking my breath away. What mysteries, what treasures did these heights hold? And then there were the cherries on top—the crowning touch that made the scene even more magical: proud, majestic castles perched on the summits like impassive sentinels. Monuments from the past, yet firmly rooted in the present on their rocky spurs. The little boy’s eyes sparkled—he’d been given a castle for Christmas, complete with battlements, towers, a drawbridge, and fully armed knights. He’d watched and lived *Ivanhoe* on the only French TV channel that existed back then.

Only once did my paternal grandfather join us on one of these trips. A tall, intelligent man with a face that could shift from stern to mischievous, clearly full of humor and charisma. Sadly, his relationship with alcohol had taken a toll on his life and, by extension, those of his loved ones. He had a strong personality—if his boss crossed the line, he wouldn’t hesitate to punch him, which meant he went through a lot of different jobs. Back then, you could quit one job and easily find another. It was quite something to see him in his final stages, hallucinating pink elephants and even drinking perfume when he had nothing else left. The last time I saw him, he’d slipped away from the doctors and nurses while hospitalized in pretty bad shape—at least, I assume his liver was the issue. We were sitting down for a family lunch when the door burst open, and there he stood in his pajamas, eyes twinkling with mischief, clearly pleased with the dramatic entrance. That theatrical moment didn’t spare us from burying him a few months later at the age of 71. One day, my mother told me the family doctor had quietly remarked that it was a shame—with his robust constitution, he could’ve lived to be a hundred. Yes, the family doctor—this was the man who’d come treat you any day, at almost any hour, just for a phone call. It really existed, it’s not a myth!

That day, his wife—my paternal grandmother—was also along for the ride. Everyone agreed that Jeannette was a good woman. She worked as a waitress at *Le Tigre*, the biggest brasserie in town, right in the center. Most customers preferred to be served by her, including local dignitaries and even the mayor. As a kid, I didn’t find her very fun, open, or warm—she seemed a bit stern. Back then, women in their fifties already had the face and build of grandmothers. Same went for men, don’t get me wrong. I had no idea about the struggles she faced because of her husband. I didn’t know that 30 years earlier, she’d had to flee Alsace while pregnant, under threat from Nazi fighter-bombers. I didn’t know she’d had several miscarriages, and that my father—her only surviving child, born prematurely in March 1940 at the other end of France—weighed less than a kilo at birth and was so tiny he could fit in a shoebox. Hard to imagine he’d grow into a strapping man nearly 1.80 meters tall, tipping the scales at 100 kilos. When you come back from summer camp in early August and ask why she didn’t pick you up with your parents, and they gently tell you she’s "in heaven," you don’t realize she passed away at 54 after suffering greatly from stomach cancer that had spread.

Back to that family outing, that enchanted parenthesis. I even remembered where we’d had lunch when I passed through Dambach-la-Ville decades later. One of those charming, flower-filled towns Alsace produces in abundance—and preserves so well. This one sits high on a hill, and I was a bit stunned on the parking lot because the view stretched far, revealing the Alsace plain below—its fields, villages, hills, and forests. The world seemed so vast and enticing that day, even though I was only glimpsing a tiny fraction of it.

The region was already very touristy, but I wouldn’t notice the downsides until much later. That Sunday noon, I discovered a large restaurant filled with diners. I can still see the enormous piece of meat they served me, decorated with a little wooden skewer topped with a flag. I kept that one for a long time. Those were the golden days of rich, flowing, thick sauces—so flavorful—and the era of the world’s best fries, made on the spot with the best potatoes. To top it off, I was *exceptionally* allowed a small bottle of apple juice, Orangina, or—even better if possible—Sinalco. Yes, Sinalco—like Orangina, but better. A brand that must’ve disappeared in the 70s, but why, and what a shame! Since then, Orangina’s little bubbles have taken the brand to the other side of the planet—it’s now Japanese.

Year after year, I’d eagerly await that ecstatic moment when the most beautiful castle in Alsace, the Haut-Koenigsbourg, appeared in my field of vision. The perfect model, the archetype that blended into the landscape at the height of a child’s dreams. The trip home always felt like a reality check—less jarring than an alarm clock, but more diffuse and melancholic. From then on, there was only one wish: *When do we leave again?*

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Elis 4 days ago · Djalma

9-Day Trek in the Balkans

Hi there, Here’s a recap of a trek through the Balkans covering three countries: Albania, Montenegro, and Kosovo. I was with a friend, and we didn’t do the full route (only one day in Kosovo). It was a wonderful trek through snow-capped mountains and vast flower-filled meadows, meeting incredibly welcoming people. At the end of the travel journal, I’ll share what I loved and what I liked less.

Day 1: Flight from Paris-Beauvais to Tirana with Wizz Air.

Since Albania isn’t part of Europe when it comes to phone service (at least not yet! :-)), we had to buy a physical SIM card—otherwise, the bill would’ve been sky-high if we’d used our French plan! We got one from Vodafone AL at the airport. You can buy online before leaving with a virtual SIM (e-SIM) for compatible phones, so you don’t have to swap cards. But given the uncertainty about choosing a plan online, we preferred buying one directly at Tirana Airport. Cost: 31 € for 100 GB. That’s way too much—100 GB is overkill. For 40 GB, it’s 27 €, and the plan lasts 21 days. The price difference isn’t huge, and it was cheaper than online. This plan covers all the countries along the Balkan range. Money tip: All guesthouses and accommodations accept euros. The local currency in Albania is the LEK. In Montenegro, it’s the euro. Bank fees for withdrawing money from an ATM in Albania are pretty steep: 8 € for a withdrawal of 600–700 LEK (about 200 €)! So it’s better to withdraw cash (euros) in France. Oh, and we booked all our accommodations before leaving, but payment is always in cash. Budget around 400–500 € for 9 days of trekking.

Then, a transfer the same day to Shköder, about a 2-hour bus ride. Cost: 10 € per person. Tickets bought directly on the bus. We spent the night in Shköder at a very clean guesthouse, Open Doors B&B. It had a small balcony overlooking the city.

I really liked Shköder, especially its pedestrian street lined with restaurants and lit up at night. It’s a great place to stroll and eat. The food isn’t expensive—two big salads and two beers: 14 € :-) . Fruit prices are also very reasonable: 3 € for a kilo of cherries, compared to 9–10 € in France. Religions coexist peacefully in these countries—Catholics and Muslims. From our balcony, my friend heard the call to prayer for the first time, coming from one of the city’s mosques.

Day 2: Bus ride to Theth, about 1,100 meters in elevation gain, the starting point for our hike the next day.

The trip took 2 hours and 40 minutes with a break in the middle. The bus was affordable, but taxis also make the trip—though they’re very expensive.

We slept in the heights of Theth at a new guesthouse, "Mountain Vista Shkafi," with an amazing view.

The family was adorable. The husband is a handyman and built almost everything himself. Their baby is named "Sky"—such a cute name, right? :-) Throughout the trek, I found the guesthouses very clean, and the hosts think of everything—no need to bring soap or shampoo; they provide it. Lunch in Theth at a traditional restaurant on the main road. We tried "Tave Dheu," an Albanian dish with beef, cabbage (very common), and cottage cheese. Delicious but not quite filling enough. For dessert, a honey cake that was perfectly moist—such a treat! Desserts like this are rare; sometimes they serve watermelon instead. We took a small private bus for 5 € to the "Blue Eye" parking lot, then walked for about 45 minutes to reach a stunning natural site—a kind of lagoon with incredibly blue water. The bravest can swim, but the water’s freezing!

That evening, we dined at "La Montagne Blanche"—excellent! A delightful mix of grilled meats with potatoes and grilled peppers. Some watermelon slices (which I’m not a fan of) and the famous Raki, a brandy served in Turkey and the Balkans! It was my first time drinking brandy "bottoms up." 😉

To be continued... 😉

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DrCarter 4 days ago · Djackx67

Two-week family trip to Colombia in August with 8-year-olds

Hi everyone,

I’d like to share my family trip to Colombia with kids aged 8. After spending hours browsing the forum and only having two weeks there, we decided to focus on two regions: the Coffee Zone for one week and the Caribbean coast for another. We traveled from August 8 to 23.

Day 1 – First stop: Bogotá

We arrived in Bogotá in the evening on an Air France flight—nothing to complain about, decent service, comfortable, and on time. However, the first night was a miss. We’d booked a hotel near the airport (Abitel Prime) for convenience, but the soundproofing was almost nonexistent; we heard planes as if we were on the runway. Luckily, exhaustion helped us sleep well anyway.

Day 2 – Off to the Coffee Zone and Salento

The next morning, we headed to the airport for a domestic flight to Pereira with LATAM. No issues: punctual and efficient, and in 30 minutes, we landed in Pereira. The landing already set a different mood: lush valleys, endless plantations, and humid air. We picked up our rental car from Localiza. Unfortunately, the experience wasn’t smooth—the paperwork took forever, and the wait tested our patience. Finally free, we hit the road to Salento, one of Quindío’s gems. We arrived in the late afternoon and discovered a colorful village bustling with artisan shops and cafés. Our first stroll helped us soak in the atmosphere before dinner at Bambú restaurant—a great surprise with careful cooking and local flavors. We spent the night at Casa Serafín, a charming little hotel, nicely decorated and well-located… but unfortunately very noisy.

Day 3 – The magic of Cocora Valley

This was one of the trip’s highlights. We set off early for Cocora Valley, famous for its giant wax palms, Colombia’s emblem. We chose the 12 km loop recommended by the *Routard*. The landscapes were spectacular: towering palms, rivers, suspension bridges. It felt like walking through a postcard. The weather was perfect. That evening, we dined at Barnabé restaurant—pleasant setting, decent food, but the bill was a bit steep for what it was. Back to Casa Serafín.

Day 4 – Coffee and panoramic views

The plan was a visit to Finca El Ocaso. For 1.5 hours, we followed a passionate guide who explained the entire coffee process, from harvest to cup. Very educational, accessible for both kids and adults, all in a stunning setting. The tour was in English for us, and we translated for our kids, who aren’t bilingual yet. In the afternoon, we climbed to Salento’s viewpoint. The valley view was superb. That evening, we ate at Veggie Garden, a simple and pleasant spot that was a nice change from the heavier meals of previous days.

Day 5 – Horseback ride to Santa Rita Waterfall

We booked a horseback ride with Cocora Magic. It was a real success: calm horses, a beautiful trail, mountain and meadow landscapes, and finally the refreshing and wild Santa Rita Waterfall. Without a doubt, one of the best moments of our time in the region. We even got a bonus ride up a 300-meter hill. We then headed to Filandia, less known than Salento but just as charming. We spent the late afternoon enjoying the pool at MuchoSur Filandia. The hotel is beautiful, in an idyllic setting. However, we also had soundproofing issues and could hear our neighbors.

Day 6 – Rainy detour through Filandia and Manizales

Rain caught up with us in the early morning: torrents of water made it impossible to go out. We stayed at the hotel, reading quietly. By noon, the rain let up: a quick walk in Filandia, a quick lunch, then off to Manizales. We chose to stay at El Otoño hot springs. Great choice: as soon as we arrived, we plunged into the hot pools, perfect after hours on the road.

Day 7 – Hiking and hot springs

In the morning, we hiked the Camino de Super Coco (found somewhat randomly on Google). A pleasant trail with mountain views and a peaceful atmosphere. The afternoon was spent in the hotel’s thermal pools, with a short marked hike down to the river. Dinner on-site at the hot springs’ restaurant. A simple but very relaxing day.

Day 8 – Rain, jacuzzi, and games

We continued to Finca Los Alpes. The rain greeted us again, but this time it turned into an asset: nothing like a steaming jacuzzi with a view of the misty mountains. The kids enjoyed the facilities too: mini-golf, ping-pong, billiards. Dinner and night at the hotel, cozy vibes.

Day 9 – Off to the Caribbean coast

Back to the airport to return the car (still a bit long). Flight to Cartagena with Avianca: punctual and comfortable. Upon arrival, we picked up another car and headed straight to the Hyatt Regency, a modern hotel with a pool. That evening, we dined at the hotel—practical after a travel day.

Day 10 – Colonial Cartagena

We set off to explore Cartagena’s old town. It was enchanting: colorful facades, flowered balconies, colonial charm—just magical. However, the heat was stifling and very humid. Afternoon relaxation by the pool. Dinner at Gestlani, a good restaurant in town.

Day 11 – Road to Barú

A hearty breakfast, then one last swim in the pool before heading to Barú. We checked into Las Islas Hotel. The setting was enchanting: wooden cabins nestled in the vegetation, a private beach, turquoise sea, impeccable service. Dinner at the hotel’s restaurant.

Day 12 – Beach and relaxation

A full beach day in Barú. Warm water, white sand, coconut trees, peace and quiet. A real postcard scene with iguanas and birds.

Day 13 – On to Santa Marta

Another morning at the beach before hitting the road to Santa Marta. The drive was a bit long (6 hours), especially with traffic jams in Barranquilla. It was the longest car ride of the trip. We spent the night at Villa María Tayrona, a beautiful place near the park.

Day 14 – Tayrona Park

We left early for Tayrona Park. We entered through **El Zaino**, parked the car, and set off on a hike to La Piscina (about 2 hours). We stopped along the way at Playa Arenilla, a stunning little beach, to rest. Lunch on-site, a swim, then back by 4 PM. The hike was a bit tiring, but the nature was spectacular: dense jungle, the sound of waves, and even a monkey encounter along the way. Evening and dinner at the hotel.

Day 15 – Last swim and return flight to Bogotá

Our last morning was split between the pool and the beach (the hotel has direct access via a 7-minute trail through vegetation and flowers)—hard to leave this paradise. We drove to Santa Marta’s airport to return the car, then flew back to Bogotá. We spent the night at Casa Dann Carlton, a comfortable hotel. We simply ordered room service, arriving too late to go out.

Day 16 – Bogotá and the end of the trip

Our last day in Colombia. After a good breakfast, we explored La Candelaria. Its cobbled streets and colorful houses were worth the visit. We visited the Botero Museum (free) and the Gold Museum, both fascinating. Back to the airport for our 11:55 PM Air France flight.

That’s a wrap on a varied trip—lush mountains, colorful villages, dream beaches, and tropical jungle. The pace was pretty relaxed, well-suited for our kids. They absolutely loved the trip to Colombia. Driving in Colombia was very easy, and we didn’t regret renting a car at all—it gave us more freedom to get around.

If I were to do it again, here’s what I’d change: - I’d spend less time in the Coffee Zone to stay a bit longer on the Caribbean coast, which was more relaxing for the kids. Or I’d head to Medellín, but I didn’t think the city was very kid-friendly. - Bogotá is a city that deserves a day’s visit, but it’s not a must-see. Maybe I’d have taken the KLM flight from Cartagena to Amsterdam instead.

If you have any questions, don’t hesitate!

Antoine

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Holigirl 5 days ago · Solene40

South Africa in safari mode: February/March 2026

Hi everyone,

With my girlfriend Christelle, we’ve chosen South Africa for our first trip to Southern Africa, focusing on safaris—after a long debate with a Cape Town/Kruger combo. But that would’ve meant cutting out St Lucia, which would’ve been harder to fit into another trip. And St Lucia—thanks to Michel and all those travel journals—we really wanted to go there.

So our 11-night itinerary ended up like this, mostly shaped by school holidays: - 3 nights in St Lucia - 1 night in Hluhluwe - 1 night at Mkhaya Game Reserve (Eswatini) - 1 night at Hlane Royal National Park (Eswatini) - 3 nights in Kruger (Berg en Dal / Satara / Tamboti) - 1 night at Shindzela Tented Camp in the Timbavati private reserve - 1 final night in Kruger at Lower Sabie

All of this in the off-season and rainy season, just a month after catastrophic floods that killed over 150 people and seriously damaged Kruger’s infrastructure.

I’ll jump straight to St Lucia and skip the loooong journey to get there (with a layover in Frankfurt, landing in Johannesburg, a domestic flight to Durban, and the rest by rental SUV—First Car Rental, perfect, no complaints).

To motivate readers—especially some familiar faces here—I’ll drop in a first photo.

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Fabhyène 5 days ago

3 weeks in Laos, at a relaxed pace

This trip was in 2023, but when I wanted to write my travel journal, VF was still closed to contributions... Now that I’ve just finished my Japan travel journal here, I figured it was high time to pay tribute to this destination we fell in love with.

Disclaimer 1: This is a written travel journal. There’ll be text! Too much, for some! Disclaimer 2: This is an illustrated travel journal. There’ll be photos! Too many, for some!

I have to say, every time I try to discipline myself, to keep it shorter, to include fewer photos... I end up adding more. It feels like my dear Aunt Nicole, who exhausted us with her slide-show evenings in the 70s/80s, decided to get her revenge. The upside for you, readers, is that you can sneak away at any time without offending Aunt Nicole. I won’t even notice!

Anyway, since I like maps, here’s one to give you an idea of where I’m taking you. As you can see, we only saw a tiny part of Laos (the areas circled in red); we only had 3 weeks for ourselves (my husband’s newly retired, I’m still working), and we prefer taking our time over rushing around like crazy.

In broad strokes, it was very classic:

We first “settled in” in Luang Prabang (8 days), because we wanted and needed to. From there, we took three days to venture a little further north—not far in kilometers, but as we know, distances aren’t just measured in km! Then we flew south to Paksé, letting ourselves drift down to the 4,000 Islands while stopping at the pre-Angkorian archaeological sites. We finished with the Bolaven Plateau.

A few practical tips: We arrived via Bangkok, then took a Bangkok-Luang Prabang flight, having collected our luggage in Bangkok to check it in for Luang Prabang. No issues—the Bangkok airport, which many of you know, is very well organized. We got our visas on arrival in Luang Prabang. It was quick, but we were on a “small” plane, and the big flights had arrived earlier, so we weren’t too many in line! At the end of our trip, we didn’t leave from Paksé but from the nearby airport in Thailand, Ubon Ratchathani (a 2.5-hour drive from Paksé), for Bangkok and then Paris. You’ll notice we skipped Vientiane to stay longer in Luang Prabang. However, there’s now a high-speed train (TGV) between Vientiane and Luang Prabang—good to know—and soon the (Chinese) train will go all the way to Bangkok and even Kuala Lumpur!

With that introduction out of the way, let’s dive into the heart of the matter. To be continued: Slowing down the pace... in Luang Prabang

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Gaura 5 days ago · Fabhyène

Visiting Bologna in Photos

Since I didn’t have time to write a proper travel journal, I thought I’d share a few photos of Bologna—a really lovely city I discovered in 2017 while stopping on my way to Tuscany. Around Piazza Maggiore, which was packed with a stage and chairs for a show, stands the Basilica of San Petronio, massive and Gothic in style, with an unfinished façade (a common sight in Italy).

Another building near the square:

But Bologna’s real charm lies in its porticoes, which were added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2021: 62 km of arcades running along buildings, letting you walk sheltered from the sun or rain. Back in 1288, the city required houses to include private arcades for public use. In the city center, you can stroll under 32 km of porticoes in all sorts of styles—some plain, some ornate—with a strong presence of red tones.

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Muriel18 5 days ago · Montagnard74

Two weeks under the Puglia sun

After a pretty disastrous weather-wise trip to Gran Canaria, we're hoping this time the sun will be out in Puglia. It’s not looking great since the weather isn’t great across Europe at the start of May.

Saturday, May 16: This time we’re flying from Charleroi (Brussels South): the ticket prices, flight schedules, and proximity all worked for us. The airport (Ryanair) was recently redone... but it’s not very well organized—there are very few seats in the boarding areas, and... the restrooms are pay-to-use!!! The flight goes smoothly, though, and we land in Bari with a slight delay.

We quickly pick up our rental car, a very locally styled Pandina (even more so than the Fiat 500 in this region), and hit the Italian (high)ways... and their unique driving quirks (notably, the countless road signs in towns and along roads seem to be purely decorative 😏, and Italian cars don’t have turn signals 😮... except for rental cars).

About an hour later, we arrive at our first accommodation, right in the middle of the countryside near Monopoli. The owner isn’t there, but they left us a ton of info via messages and even turned on the space heater, which is a nice touch. We check out the property:

And the next morning before breakfast, its immediate surroundings:

Sunday, May 17: After our "seaside" experience in Gran Canaria last weekend (packed with people and locals), we decide to start with the inland areas. After a hearty breakfast,

we head toward Alberobello, a super touristy village famous for its trulli—those stone houses with conical roofs. We easily find free parking on a street near the Aia Piccola district, where some trulli are still lived in year-round.

We almost immediately come across the Trullo Sovrano (the only two-story one), which you can visit (but we skip it—it’s opening time, and there’s already a line).

From there, we head down toward the Basilica of Cosma e Damiano... but we don’t go in because there’s a mass.

Now we’re on the main Piazza del Popolo, which connects the two districts of Alberobello: Rione Aia Piccola and Rione Monti, the more touristy one.

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Muriel18 5 days ago

Gran Canaria... a trip that wasn't exactly thrilling

Okay, it wasn’t a total disaster either. Actually, I hesitated before starting this travel journal: is it even worth writing about a holiday that won’t leave an unforgettable memory? In the end, I went for it (there aren’t many recent travel journals about this destination). So, read on... or don’t .

Every time we’ve been to the Canary Islands, it’s been by default (basically: where can we go in winter or early spring when we only have a week—so not too far, not too much jet lag, but with decent weather?).

This time, we had two weeks, but the winter plan kept changing: first Thailand (dropped for personal reasons), then Martinique (dropped because of work leave dates that weren’t up to me), and finally, the Canary Islands.

We’ve already been to Tenerife (which we really liked) and Lanzarote (which we liked a little less). This year, two options: Gran Canaria or one of the smaller islands west of Tenerife (La Palma, or even La Gomera or El Hierro). We chose Gran Canaria... not sure it was the right call! Whose fault is it? Storm Thérèse’s! Yes, Storm Thérèse followed us on arrival, and its effects lasted quite a while. We had to adapt, cancel visits, change activities...

But even without Thérèse...

Saturday 21/03 Departure from Orly at 6:10 AM with Transavia. The plane took off on time and landed a little early, tossed around by strong winds before touching down. It had just rained, but it was (almost) no longer raining.

We quickly picked up our luggage and then the car at the Cicar counter. We got a Seat Arona instead of the Corsa we’d booked. Well, while the driving position didn’t feel great at first (I got used to it), the engine’s smoothness and power were much appreciated on the island’s winding and sometimes steep roads.

It was only 10 AM, and we couldn’t theoretically check into our accommodation until 3 PM (the owner promised to message me if it was ready earlier). So, we headed to the (big) *Jardín Botánico Viera y Clavijo*, where we planned to spend a few hours. We found a huge parking lot... empty. The passenger in the car in front of us (yes, we weren’t the only ones at the closed gate—there was a car in front and one behind) went to ask for info: it was closed due to the storm 😕. So, we calmly headed toward Puerto de las Nieves, on the northwest coast of the island.

The plan: go to a restaurant, visit the village, and do some shopping while waiting for early afternoon. As soon as we got out of the car, it started raining... we took shelter under the awning of a shop, waiting for it to pass. But the rain turned into a downpour, and within minutes, awning or not, Gore-Tex or not, we were soaked!

Since we were already wet, we might as well go to the restaurant—they weren’t far! But here’s the thing: contrary to what Google Maps said, they all opened at 1 PM, not noon! Back to the car, wading through 5 cm of water because all the village streets were flooded . The rain let up, we did some shopping, went to eat, and I got a message from the owner saying the accommodation was ready 🙂.

So, off we went to La Suerte, a few kilometers north of Agaete. The downside of the place, especially with luggage, is that you have to climb several flights of stairs via an outdoor staircase (after parking more or less far away on a steep street) to get there 😛). Of course, on the way from the car to the apartment, it started pouring again—the bags got soaked! Enough rain for today! We settled in quietly, and by late afternoon, we could (finally!) go admire the view from the terrace.

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Jcpo 5 days ago · AlineP

A week in Lanzarote at the end of September

Lanzarote Travel Journal

Trip Planning My partner and I are heading to Lanzarote in the Canary Islands for a week at the end of September. We chose this island over the more crowded ones for its volcanic landscapes and varied hikes. I booked everything through Expedia: our hotel stay, car rental, and Ryanair flight tickets from Marseille. It was the only way to get a direct flight. To make getting around easier, I picked a hotel right in the middle of the island from the wide selection on the site. It’s part of the Barceló chain—specifically, the "Barceló Teguise Beach Adults Only" hotel in Teguise Beach, which turned out to be a great choice.

Stay

Sunday, September 21 – Monday, 22 Departure It’s 2:15 PM, and we’re at the Avignon TGV station. Danielle picked us up earlier because of the weather—thunderstorms and heavy rain all the way to the station. The TGV was on time, and it only took 30 minutes to get to Marseille Saint-Charles. The shuttle to the airport is quick and convenient, right behind the station. The bus leaves for the airport in the middle of the storm, with flooded roads and cars stuck in some spots. We get soaked making our way to the terminal. Two hours to wait before the flight. The plane finally takes off at midnight, but just before landing, the pilot announces that the destination airport is closed, and we’re being diverted to Tenerife. The airline will get us to Lanzarote as soon as possible. We wait two hours, and Ryanair gives us a 4 € voucher as compensation. We reboard around 5:15 AM and take off at 6:00 AM. About 45 minutes to reach Lanzarote. After picking up our luggage, we head to the car rental desk. The counter in the terminal is closed, and we’re told to go to parking lot P4—it takes us a while to find it. I’m a little worried about the rental company’s reaction since we’re picking up the car seven hours later than planned, but it’s no problem. A woman next to us is furious because she’s in the same situation, and her rental was canceled. Anne-Marie translates for her, but nothing changes. We get a brand-new Toyota Aigo and head to the hotel. After checking in, we walk through the garden, past the large pool, to our room. A lovely first-floor room with a jacuzzi and a sea view. It’s early, so we head to breakfast—a generously stocked and varied buffet with everything you could want. Then we drive to Cueva de los Verdes, but there’s a big crowd and a long wait, so we decide to come back another day. Next, we visit Mirador del Río. This rocky viewpoint at the edge of the island has breathtaking cliffs dropping 500 meters into the ocean. The view is stunning and impressive. A panoramic bar lets you cool off while enjoying the scenery. We head back to the hotel for a short walk around the neighborhood and relax by the pool—the water temperature is perfect. Loungers, pool, and downtime. Dinner is a varied buffet at the restaurant. We turn in early to recover from the sleepless night.

Tuesday, 23 After a good night’s sleep, we enjoy another varied and hearty breakfast. The terrace seating is really nice. We take an inland road to Timanfaya National Park. The road near the park runs alongside vineyards, where the vines are protected from the wind by low stone walls made of lava rock. Our first stop is the visitor center, where the island’s volcanic activity is well-documented. Then we stop at an area where you can take a short camel ride—two seats are set up on either side of the camel’s hump. The ride gives you a great view of the volcanic landscape from above. The price is reasonable: 11 € per person for a 20-minute ride. We continue to the park entrance, taking the road to the parking lot where the buses depart—the only vehicles allowed on the winding route inside the park. It’s crowded, and we wait about 45 minutes with several stops before reaching the parking lot. We board the bus, and the route offers beautiful views of the volcanic area and its many craters. The drive is very interesting, with several stops for photos. At the parking lot, a guide shows us how hot the rocks are under the surface—they can ignite dry vegetation. Water poured into holes in the ground immediately turns into steam geysers. The building next to the parking lot has a restaurant where meat is cooked using the heat from a well dug into the volcanic rock. On our way back, we drive to Playa Blanca, a seaside town with a small sandy beach.

We return to the hotel in the late afternoon and have dinner.

Wednesday, 24 We get up early and have a quick breakfast—there aren’t many people at this hour. Two days ago, we booked a 10:00 AM visit to Los Verdes, lava tunnels created by eruptions and lava flows from the La Corona volcano, which solidified on the surface while continuing to flow underneath. The tunnels stretch 8 kilometers to the volcano, but we only walk one kilometer. The inside of the tunnel is impressive, with narrow passages and larger chambers. You can see the marks left by the flowing lava—different colors and twisted shapes. At the end of the route, a large chamber has been turned into a concert hall with perfect acoustics. Next, we visit Jameo del Agua. This is a continuation of the lava tunnel, designed by Manrique. There are beautifully arranged bar and restaurant spaces, and an underground lake where you can see small blind white crabs—a protected species in the very pure water. Higher up, there’s a lovely space with a central pool that could double as a swimming pool, surrounded by pure white pathways that contrast with the blue water. Further on, you reach a large space inside the lava tunnel, set up as a performance hall with perfect acoustics. Stairs let you view this beautiful space from above. There’s a gap in the lava landscape with the ocean in the distance. We head back to the village of Yé, at the foot of the La Corona volcano. A 160-meter walk from the church, a path through vineyard plots leads up to the volcano’s crater in about 30 minutes. It’s the island’s highest volcano. At the crater’s edge, you can see how deep it is, with steep slopes inside forming a large circular opening. The place is grand and awe-inspiring. We drive back to the hotel via a road that climbs quickly, offering a beautiful view of the island’s north.

Thursday, 25 After another enjoyable and varied breakfast, we head to the center of the island to the volcano park and stop at a roadside parking lot where a path leads to the Montana Cuervo volcano. This is a crater with an opening on one side. During an eruption, an explosion blew a hole in the crater. Huge blocks of rock were thrown dozens of meters away. The path goes through the breach and down into the crater, letting you walk around it. It’s impressive—you really feel small and fragile in this environment. The crater walls are different colors, highlighting the rock formations. The crater is surrounded by a sea of lava with sharp, jagged rocks. You can walk around the outside of the crater, but it’s not very interesting. We head to the west coast, stopping at a spot with a small green lake next to a beautiful black sand beach. Next, we stop at Salinas de Janubio, a pretty viewpoint over the salt marshes with different water colors. A small shop sells local products. Then we head to the famous Papagayo beach. The road ends at a gate where they charge 3 € to continue. From here, the land is private, and you have to pay to drive down a 3-kilometer rocky dirt road. Quite a few cars are driving on it, kicking up clouds of dust. The car gets a dusty makeover. We arrive at a large parking area, with several paths leading to different small beaches. We go to Papagayo, a small blonde sand beach surrounded by red rocks. The beach slopes gently into the water, which is a nice temperature. The setting is peaceful and pleasant. We stay for a while before heading back to the hotel.

Friday, 26 We start with a visit to the César Manrique Foundation in Tahiche. It was originally one of his homes. The modern, multi-level building is integrated into the lava flow, using natural gaps to create living spaces. Large windows make the rooms bright and open to the scenery. The place is lovely, with flower-filled gardens outside. It’s definitely worth a visit. Next, we drive to Las Grietas, where a path leads to a narrow crack in the volcanic rock—only one person can pass through at a time. The passage isn’t very long, but progress is slow because of all the selfies being taken. Then we stop at Casa del Campesino, a renovated farm with several artisan shops. We taste a local wine recommended by a charming woman and buy two bottles of Lanzarote red wine on her advice. Now we head to Playa de Famara, a beautiful, wide beach at the foot of high cliffs. There are always big waves here, making it a surfer’s paradise. On the way back to the hotel, we stop at the cactus garden—the last creation by César Manrique. It’s designed with great aesthetic sense around an old windmill and features 4,500 varieties of cacti in a beautiful space. We return to the hotel in the late afternoon and have dinner.

Saturday, 27 After another hearty breakfast, we head north to Haria. We stumble upon another house where César Manrique lived for a long time. This one is more traditional than the last, but still has large, modern, and comfortable rooms. At the back of the garden is his spacious studio, where he created his works. Next, we visit the craft market—this was our original plan. There are various stalls selling local goods, and it’s very crowded. No room at the café terraces to sit down. Then we return to Famara beach for a long stay. The waves are still great for surfers, and the water temperature is perfect—we enjoy it. On the way back to the hotel, we stop at a gas station to refill the car, which has been very fuel-efficient. Gas is much cheaper here than in France—1.16 € per liter of SP95. We also wash the car, which was very dusty after the long dirt road to Papagayo beach. At the hotel, we enjoy a farewell cocktail before dinner.

Sunday, 28 We spend the morning by the hotel pool before checking out at noon. For lunch, we go to a restaurant called "Doña Lola" near the hotel, with a terrace overlooking the coast. We order tuna carpaccio, which is delicious. Then we head to the airport, just 15 minutes away. We return the rental car and go to the airport. There’s a long line to check in our luggage. The return flight is on time. We take the shuttle bus to Saint-Charles station. Then we head to our overnight rental. The boulevard slopes down, making it easier with the suitcases. The rental is between the old port and the train station. Once there, we pick up the keys and make one last effort—carrying the luggage up to the third floor. The studio is nice, clean, and simply furnished—perfect for one night.

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Calisson94 6 days ago

Return to Swedish Lapland: Trekking the Kungsleden and Crossing Sarek

After summer 2022 left me with a sense of unfinished business, here I am back in Swedish Lapland for summer 2024, ready to attempt the Sarek crossing again—and this time, trek part of the Kungsleden too.

After much hesitation, my companion Jean Marie and I decided to start with the Kungsleden, which, from what we’ve read, is stunning but very crowded (and it really is!!), and finish with the wilder option: Sarek! This park is known as Europe’s last true wilderness—sounds like a dream to me!! The downside of this choice is that there’s no way to resupply in Sarek, and the Kungsleden isn’t exactly set up for long treks either, so we’ll have to carry a lot of food for the first part of the trip to prepare for Sarek. Oh well, we’re motivated!

Our plan is to start in Abisko (classic) and head to Vakkotavare (also classic, but with some detours to avoid the official route and the crowds). Then we’ll continue the Kungsleden from Saltoluokta, and before Aktse, we’ll set off on an east-to-west crossing of Sarek (weather-dependent, since aside from the Skarja hut in the center of the park, there’s no shelter if conditions turn bad). At least we’ll be on the right side of the park to climb Skierfe and enjoy the jaw-dropping view of Rappaladen if we have to abandon the Sarek crossing.

This adds up to 17 days of trekking, including 1 rest day + 1 buffer day for weather delays.

If you’re interested, I’ll be sharing updates as we lug our overstuffed backpacks along the way.

08/03 - Abisko – 5km before Abiskojaure Some info (guides we used for prep, SFT map, sending food to Saltoluokta) 08/04 – 5km before Abiskojaure – on the east shore of Lake Alisjavri 08/05 – East shore of Lake Alisjavri – just before Tjaktja 08/06 – Just before Tjaktja – above the Salka hut via Nallo 08/07 - Salka – just past Singi + side trip to Djalson Lake 08/08 - Singi – Teusajaure 08/09 - Teusajaure - Vakkotavare (end of the first section of the Kungsleden) 08/10 – rest day in Saltoluokta + round trip to the Sámi village of Pietjaure 08/11 – Saltoluokta – Sitojaure 08/12 - Sitojaure - Skierfe – Sarek or no Sarek? Coming up: 08/13 – Skierfe – somewhere above Rapadalen

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Jojoone1 6 days ago · Songsam

All Over Thailand

You can post your personal photos in the following thread: https://voyageforum.com/forum/quelque-part-en-thailande-d10655574/

This travel journal is therefore intended solely for my photos, to present a consistent style. All the shots were taken with a simple Samsung Galaxy smartphone and with whatever was at hand.

All stays combined, I’ve spent the equivalent of a year at most in Thailand, and I’m no great expert. However, after many trips, lots of reading on VoyageForum and other sites, and conversations with many locals as well as expats, my view of the country is becoming clearer, though it’s constantly evolving. You never stop discovering and learning.

I guess I wanted to deliver a puzzle, mainly for those who want to get an idea of the country here and for those who feel nostalgic about it. I don’t know if this minimalist sharing will interest anyone, but it’ll do me good to put it together. After so many months without traveling and then these other long months with VF closed, there’s plenty of material available.

There’ll be a mix of places, periods, and subjects, but it might well be intentional.

I suspect many Thais have dogs because they make excellent guardians for the home. Nothing better to deter burglars or to signal the presence of a snake. You’ll often see Thais tapping the top of their dog’s head, but don’t be fooled: it’s a sign of affection from them. Judging by the dogs’ reactions, they’re used to it.

Thailand is one of the countries on the planet where rabies is still present, so keep that in mind. It’s not just bites that can be dangerous, so don’t let just any dog lick you. Especially on a wound, of course. Even though dogs often fear humans—this dangerous and unpredictable predator—we still need to stay cautious. Be careful when walking into alleys because the dog will defend its master’s big yard. Be careful at night, and be careful when they’re in packs. It sometimes crosses our minds that Thailand isn’t all that made for walking around, and dogs are one of the reasons. That said, it’s not uncommon to see them chasing bikes or scooters. Cars, though? Much rarer—they’re too big.

It seems Thais prefer to give their dogs freedom by not locking them behind gates. Though sometimes the gate is closed, the little side door is wide open. Oh, and sometimes there’s no gate in front of the property, or it’s been full of holes for years.

You’ll often see dogs sleeping on the roadside, sometimes right on the road. When you approach, they move aside nonchalantly—or not at all. It’s less funny when they suddenly appear from thick vegetation, reminding visitors not to drive too fast. As a result, you’ll notice that dogs with injuries or missing legs aren’t that rare.

Since they believe in reincarnation and respect for all forms of life, they don’t chase dog packs away too much, and they don’t sterilize them enough. When you see a small pack roaming freely in the countryside, you think twice about running into them at the edge of a field. A darker side of this is that euthanasia isn’t often practiced. Twice, we saw dogs at death’s door in temples, enduring terrible suffering with no one to help. The image (and the smell) of one of them, agonizing and exuding the stench of death, still comes back to me sometimes.

Some of you may have seen the YouTube vlog of a French woman living in Phuket who was given a little pig by her Thai friends. The animal, well-fed, quickly became a happy and enormous beast with its own garden. Yet it didn’t take long for it to fall seriously ill and become incurable. In her video, the French woman described how difficult it was to find a vet willing to perform euthanasia.

You’ll often see bowls by the side of the road. Thais leave food and water there for stray cats and dogs. Overall, they have a big heart for animals.

If you ever pop into a shopping mall, you might see people pushing their small dogs in strollers. It’s not just for fun—these strollers are provided for customers to put their pets in, otherwise you can’t bring them inside. It looks a bit odd when you expect to see a baby.

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Puma2A last week

In MIKUMI and SELOUS, Southern Tanzania (June 2024)

Hi everyone,

I’m a newbie to this forum, passionate about wildlife, the landscapes of East Africa, and Tanzania in particular. This June 2024 trip/safari is our 7th visit to Tanzania and our 5th in the south, which has drawn us more than the north ever since we discovered it in 2015.

In 2024, the entrance fees for the reserves and services have gone up again since our last visit. I chose to return first to Mikumi Reserve, which was the very first one we visited in the south. Then, we’ll head to Selous (J. Nyerere N. P.) as usual. Initially, we wanted to spend 2/3 days on Mafia Island at the end of the trip, but it made the total cost too high, so we gave up... We usually go to Ruaha and Selous, but I wanted to mix it up a bit—also to save some money...

As for the timing, June is a new experience for us. I thought it might be interesting to come just after the lodges reopen... hoping for some great wildlife encounters??

The trip starts in Marseille with our first flight on Ethiopian Airlines to Addis Ababa, then continues to Dar es Salaam, where we’ll finally set foot on Tanzanian soil again.

In Addis... "our" A-350.

.....

After arriving in Dar, we spent one night at a hotel near the airport. The next morning, we headed to the domestic flights terminal, which hasn’t changed in years.

By mid-morning, we boarded a Cessna 208B Caravan with Safari Air Link, heading to the Kikoboga bush airstrip in Mikumi, which we reached 45 minutes later. Fun fact: the pilot was the same one as on our return flight two years ago.

Welcome on board:

Of course, a driver/guide team from our chosen lodge was waiting for us upon arrival:

I was surprised to see so many aircraft parked there... even twin-engine Embraer Brasilias?? As a fan of vintage planes, I loved it...

On the other hand, the light was incredibly harsh.....!! Our guides only speak English. We knew that in advance. In the south, it’s very rare to find someone who speaks French. This’ll force us to dig into our high school English memories... from 60 years ago... at least.

It’s noon, and we head toward the lodge. Near the airstrip, next to the Mikumi rangers’ base, there are quite a few herbivores. They find a bit more peace here—the big cats don’t venture this way...

Our first encounter was a group of Masai giraffes.

Rarer (for us), a savanna monitor lizard basking in the sun right in the middle of the track...??

A large gathering of impalas (mostly males) along with a few blue wildebeest:

Also unusual: a African crowned hornbill taking a dust bath in the middle of the track...!!

When it comes to identifying mammals or birds, I don’t know everything... so I might make mistakes. Please forgive me. I’m counting on my friend Blesl’s active participation... 😉

...

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Olive842 2 weeks ago

From Avignon to Casamance Without Flying

Hi there,

Last February, I made a trip using "public transport" from France to southern Senegal via Spain, Morocco, Western Sahara, and Mauritania.

It’s a journey of about 5,000 km, where I took trains (as far as Marrakech), ferries (to cross Gibraltar and then to reach Casamance from Dakar), and mostly buses on the long desert straightaways. I hadn’t planned any stops in advance or booked any hotels, except for the very first train to Spain, which left plenty of room for the unexpected. Why travel by land and sea? In recent years, flight-free travel has been gaining popularity. On social media, posts explaining how to cross Europe by train as quickly as possible go viral. Traveling without flying—and making sure people know about it—has become a great way to earn a badge of eco-responsibility: an essential totem for anyone wanting to prove both their dedication to the ecological cause and the wisdom of slow travel. I haven’t flown in years, and this journey to West Africa could easily be filed under "responsible travel." But it wouldn’t be honest to say that: in reality, it wasn’t really my aversion to flying that motivated this long trek. I see overland travel primarily as a way to experience the world’s geography at a grounded, earthly pace—the pace of the locals. Besides, I’ll be flying back, which disqualifies any claim to being a model of sustainability. So no eco-badge, and no adventurer’s badge either: you won’t find any heroic tales of camel rides in lost lands or mineral train wagons in this account (popular with influencers, the Mauritania iron ore train now attracts tourists from all over the world, turning "the experience" into something you "have to do at least once in your life"). This five-part story, written on the road, has no other ambition than to recount a journey through places and people, and to share the thoughts they inspire in me. As simply and, I hope, as humbly as possible.

I’m posting the episodes here, which you can also find on my blog (with more photos) at the following links:

Episode 1: Spain, from Avignon to Algeciras

Episode 2: Morocco, from Tangier to Tarfaya

Episode 3: Western Sahara, from Tarfaya to Guerguerat

Episode 4: Mauritania, from Guerguerat to Nouakchott

Episode 5: Senegal, from Rosso to Saloulou

To help those who might want to make the same trip, I’ve also put together a summary of the route with recommendations—you can read it at the end of the story and on the blog: From France to Senegal Without Flying: Route and Itinerary Recommendations

Happy reading, and safe travels!

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6cha38 2 weeks ago · Xialin

Retour sur notre voyage en famille de Denver à Yellowstone

Bonjour,

Je me lance dans un CR de notre boucle, somme toute assez classique, Denver-Yellowstone-Denver cet été du 24 juillet au 17 août. Vu la multitude de CR déjà existant ou en cours d’écriture, et n’ayant ni la qualité d'écriture ni celle des photos de beaucoup d’entre vous, je me contenterai, enfin surtout j'essaierai, d'être pragmatique pour vous faire partager notre ressenti notamment sur certains parcs ou lieu un peu moins visités.

Je tiens tout d'abord à remercier tous ceux qui, par leurs CR, blogs, sites, commentaires ou autres, nous ont permis de bâtir au mieux ce programme, qui, avec le recul, aurait encore pu être optimisé : une déception pour plusieurs belles découvertes, mais parfois survolées faute de temps. De quoi revenir dans le secteur !

Nous voyageons avec nos 4 ados (ou presque) de 18, 16, 14 et quasiment 12 ans. Ce qui nécessite, afin que le voyage soit agréable pour tous, non seulement certains compromis de part et d’autre (raccourcir une visite pour profiter plus longuement d’une baignade, se lever aux aurores...) mais aussi de bien prendre en compte certains aspects logistiques qui pourraient vite devenir chronophages sans un minimum d’organisation (lessives, courses, rangement des bagages…). Parce que mine de rien, je crois qu’on a du « visiter » tous les Walmart implantés sur notre parcours !!! La faute à une absence de frigo dans certains logements et surtout à une place très très limitée dans la voiture ne permettant pas d’avoir une glacière digne de ce nom. Je reviendrai par ailleurs sur l’épisode voiture.

Pour les logements, nous avons cette année alterné cabines basiques dans des KOA et Yellowstone (quand plus d’1 nuit au même endroit) et hôtels. Toujours avec piscine (sauf Yellowstone bien sûr), ce qui permet aux enfants de se défouler (parce qu’ils ont toujours de la réserve même après des journées bien chargées!) et nous, il faut bien l’avouer, de nous détendre. Pas de souci de Wifi, nous avons tous un forfait avec 25 GO d'internet (un grand merci à Gilles pour le super plan à 0,99 €). Cela a très bien fonctionné, même les SMS et appels de portable à portable (aucun coût supplémentaire).

J’en viens à notre circuit : comme je le disais, boucle classique Denver-Yellowstone-Denver. Pour ne pas trop survoler les parcs et ne pas passer notre temps à courir, nous avons privilégié de loger au plus près de ceux-ci en restant au moins 2 nuits au même endroit. Et je dois dire que c’est très appréciable de se poser, même si ce n’est que pour 2 nuits. Cela permet aussi de composer avec la météo, pas toujours au top lors de ce voyage. La contre-partie, la durée des vacances n’étant malheureusement pas extensible, est que certaines étapes ont parfois été longues : on le savait, mais le fait d’être dans un rythme cool, sans contrainte horaire (ne pas me demander de timing, je ne me soucie pas de l’heure en vacances sauf le matin pour lever toute la troupe si je ne veux pas que le départ soit à midi…), nous a parfois fait faire des journées à rallonge.

Ceci étant posé, j’attaque le voyage en lui-même dans le prochain post.

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Sinforosa 2 weeks ago

Back in Tunisia (live account)

Hi there,

On this forum, I shared my first trip to Tunisia from mid-February to early March (https://voyageforum.com/forum/impressions-tunisiennes-en-direct-d11460662/), a stay I enjoyed so much that six weeks later, I’m back in Tunisia for a full 15 days (I return on April 27).

This time, I landed in Monastir on a direct flight from Nice, again with Tunisair. We left about ten minutes late, and the flight lasted around 1 hour 30 minutes. A meal was served on board (cucumber salad with Edam-like cheese, carrots, and two small portions of dishes I couldn’t identify—semolina with peppers, olives, and parsley, two small rolls, a square of processed cheese, and a chocolate cake). It’s worth noting because it’s not common on flights this short.

In February, France and Tunisia were in the same time zone, but now Tunisia is one hour behind. This time difference and the flight duration work perfectly for a short 15-day trip since it takes me a few days to adjust to jet lag.

Luckily, I’d asked my hotel about the taxi fare from the airport because the drivers (there were several around me) didn’t hesitate to quote outrageous prices. The actual fare is 20 dinars, but one asked for 120 dinars. I refused, and another offered 60 dinars. I replied, "That’s too expensive—I’ll take the metro!" (Having tried the Tunis metro, I had no desire to repeat the experience in Monastir with a suitcase!). I started walking toward the metro, and one of the drivers caught up with me, saying, "20 dinars is fine!" I’ll skip the details, but the negotiation took a little while. When I arrived at the hotel, I told the receptionist someone had asked for 120 dinars. He put his hands to his head and said, "They’re awful!" He remembered our phone call two days earlier when I’d booked (he’s the one who told me I could take the metro).

The Mezri Hotel isn’t expensive. I got a sea-view room for 75 dinars (22 €). (I’d booked a balcony room for 90 dinars but wouldn’t have had time to enjoy it.) It’s well-located but noisy because there’s no double glazing. The receptionist is a very kind older gentleman. He called a friend whose wife is from Tozeur to find out if I should take a bus or a *louage* tomorrow and what time.

I arrived at the hotel around 7:00 PM and had time to stroll along the corniche to the ribat. Despite some run-down buildings, the seaside seemed livelier and cheerier than Sousse’s.

Monastir is the hometown of former president Bourguiba. I passed his mausoleum by taxi. There are Tunisian flags along the avenue by the sea because every year on April 6—the anniversary of Habib Bourguiba’s death—the president of the Republic visits the Bourguiba Mausoleum in Monastir to pay respects.

The taxi driver mentioned other Tunisian presidents. He complained about rising prices and insecurity, blaming President Kaïs Saïed (I’d already heard that security was better under Ben Ali).

At the end of my stay, I’ll take time to explore Monastir, but tomorrow morning, I’m off to Tozeur—a long bus ride awaits me.

TO BE CONTINUED....

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Amnesix77 2 weeks ago · Sandrita24

Andalousie en famille et à 2 familles avec voiture, fin avril 2019

Bonjour à tous,

De retour d'une quinzaine de jours en Andalousie j'ai envie de partager cette expérience avec vous, peut être que ca pourra être utile dans la préparation d'un voyage. Je commence par un petit récap sur ce post et j'essaierai de continuer ensuite avec des photos et des détails sur les journées (j'ai encore du travail de tri pour les photos) ; j'espère que je ne serai pas trop ennuyeux 😎

Les conditions du voyage :

du 20 avril au 4 mai 2019 :

7 jours sur la côte de la Luz (el puerto de santa maria) en air bnb,

4 jours à la jonction entre la costa del sol et la costa tropical (Salobrena) en air bnb

3 jours au cabo de gata pour le repos en camping à Los Escullos

Deux familles de 4, chacune avec sa voiture perso : 3 garçons de 9 ans et une fille de 6 ans. Une famille plutôt ville et découverte (c'est pas nous mais on se soigne) et une famille plutôt farniente / nature (ca c'est nous). On parle un peu espagnol.

Plus de 5 000 km, dont 2 500 pour le trajet aller retour depuis Carcassonne.

Le temps : variable mais on s'attendait à mieux dans cette région toute fin avril : on a eu un parfois froid la première semaine sur la côte de la Luz (< 20 °C) et ensuite il a fait plus chaud sans excès la deuxième semaine (<25°C). Au moins on n'a pas eu trop de pluie

Notre budget : environ 2600 € par famille :

700 € pour les nuitées, soit 50 € par nuit,

1000 € pour les repas / restau. Au restau on s'en sortait généralement pour 50 € / famille, on mangeait au resto le midi (sauf 2/3 pique nique) et à la maison le soir en essayant d'être de retour pour 18H00)

600 € pour les sorties : rio tinto, un spectacle de flamenco, les visites de l'alhambra, giralda et alcazar, les parc oasis avec repas, la sortie kayak

300 € pour l'essence et péage

préparation : quelques mois à l'avance avec les résa des nuitées et de l'alhmabra / giralda / Alcazar. Quelques guides de voyage (j'aime bien le guide « évasion » pour initier la prépa. G��oguide est bien sans plus mais c'est le routard de nos amis qui a le plus servi. Egalement 3 mois de préparation / révision à l'espagnol avec Mosalingua (méthode de répétition très bien faite, 10 minutes / jours max). Téléchargement de Maps me et de la carte d'Andalousie à l'avance, indispensable. Et enfin tricount pour faire le décompte des dépenses avec les amis, c'est très pratique.

Qu'avons nous fait / vu:

3 visites de villes (Séville, Grenade et Cadix) + Malaga pour les amis, (on, a mis le véto sur Cordoue, ca aurait fait trop de ville pour nous)

4 villages blancs (Vejer de la frontera, Arcos de la frontera, Grazamela, Ronda) + Tarifa pour les amis,

des plages (Tarifa et Bolonia, matalascanas, Nerja, el Cabo de gata)

des petits moments nature et divertissement : le parc de la donana, une sortie kayak le long de la côte rocheuse près de Nerja et le parc Far west / animalier dans le désert de Tabernas.

un peu de culture : les mines de rio tintos, le site archéologique d'Italica, les caravelles de Christophe Colomb, la grotte de Nerja pour nous et le musée Picasso à Malaga pour les amis, le séchage du jambon dans les Alpujarras pour les amis.

Nos coups de cœur

Nerja et les quelques villages autour : la côte rocheuse est vraiment sympa on a adoré la sortie en Kayak même si pour le snorkeling l'eau était bien froide. Les plages sont abritées du vent, le village est agréable et bien sûr la grotte est exceptionnelle.

El Rocio et le parc de la Donana. Ambiance hors du temps un peu western à El Rocio, on y serait bien resté un jour ou deux ; le calme et les odeurs de pin nous ramènent dans les landes

Ce qui nous a moyennement plu :

les mines de rio tinto : pas passionnant ni extraordinaire d'autant que le flots de paroles ininterrompus des guides espagnols gachent un peu ce moment de « nature ».

Nos petits regrets (qu'on note pour une prochaine fois) :

avoir oublié nos passeports et n'avoir pas pu aller passer une journée à Tanger depuis Tarifa,

avoir manqué d'une journée autour de Nerja pour aller passer une journée de Snowboard dans la sierra Nevada à à peine 1H30 de route (que nous a proposé l'excursionniste de kayak)

ne pas avoir passé au moins une nuit à El rocio pour aller explorer le parc de la Donana au petit matin

Antequerra avec l'embalse du guadalhorce et le caminito del rey (mais il fallait refaire 2h00 de route et on n'avait pas le courage)

Mes impressions générales et personnelles à chaud sur l'Andalousie et l'Espagne

sur les paysages : un sentiment de concentration un peu extrême parfois d'une mono activité sur un territoire : champs d'olivier à perte de vue sur le trajet, les fermes éoliennes de la côte de la Luz (que j'ai trouvé bien intégrées), les lignes d'immeubles le long de la costa del sol (burk, heureusement qu'on ne s'y est pas arrêté), les champs de serres autour d'Alméria (dommage d'avoir gelé la côte sur autant de km), le port industriel de Huelvas tellement étendu, ...

D'ailleurs en traversant le pays ce qui nous a étonné par rapport à la France c'est la relative absence de hameaux, les villages sont bien délimités et la population s'y concentre laissant de vastes paysages sans présence humaine, alors qu'en France on trouve des habitations un peu partout.

Enfin sur les routes : relativement peu de péages, alors certes les aires de repos sont moins bien aménagées que chez nous mais les routes sont en bon état et notre porte feuille était plutôt content. D'ailleurs les routes sont plutôt rectilignes avec un nombre incalculable de ponts et tunnels : l'avantage (outre le fait qu'on se déplace rapidement) c'est qu'il y a relativement peu de routes secondaires qui viennent impacter le paysage.

pour le tourisme et les activités : une très grande variété et richesse. Le sentiment que chacun trouvera des choses à faire selon ses goûts et qu'en 15 jours on est loin d'avoir épuisé nos envies. Et c'est incroyable comment dans une région on passe vite de la côte aux sommets enneigés (la sierra Nevada), des cultures au désert (le Tabernas). Et bien sûr le mélange des cultures européennes et arabe dans l'architecture dans une même ville est très agréable.

Petit regret c'est d'avoir relativement peu échangé avec les locaux, on est mal tombé pour ca sur nos air bnb dommage. On était bien reçu par les différents commerçants par contre, très compréhensifs sur mon espagnol approximatif:-) .

Au final je pense que notre choix de nous poser sur la côte de luz et ensuite près de Nerja étaient bons : on a pu rayonner pas trop mal (même si on a fait de km bien sûr) et on était dans des environnement vraiment sympa. Et les 3 jours de repos total ensuite au cabo de gata ont été les bienvenus.

Si vous préférez ou pouvez faire des pauses moins longues vous pouvez essayez de dormir sur El Roccio (facile pour aller à Séville et permet la visite matinale du parc de la donana) et pourquoi pas aussi à Grazamela pour faire une rando dans la sierra (mais à improviser car dépend de la météo)... Et bien sûr Tarifa pour un aller retour Tanger et journée à Gibraltar.

a bientôt pour des détails sur les différentes journées et quelques photos

Laurent

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Fabhyène 3 weeks ago · Sinforosa

Elle voit des géants partout! (Ducasse d’Ath, Belgique, août 2018)

La fantaisie et le dépaysement sont quelquefois tout près de chez vous ! J’aime aller aux quatre coins de la planète, mais il peut y avoir aussi tout un monde à peine plus loin que le coin de votre rue… et même le bout de votre nez ! Je vais donc vous raconter en image la belle kermesse d’Ath, que nous avons découverte seulement en août dernier, alors que nous sommes voisins (nous habitons Lille)

J'aurais pu sous-titrer ce carnet: "Ferme eut’bouc tin nez va quer eud’dans"; c'est une expression en langue picarde, littéralement « Ferme ta bouche ton nez va tomber dedans », qui se dit à une personne ébahie, et ébahie je l'ai été!!!

Ooooooooh, des géants ! Ah comme je les aime ! Dans le Nord nous avons beaucoup de ces géants, comme Reuze Papa et Reuze Maman à Cassel, ou encore Gayant, Marie et leurs enfants Binbin, Jacquot et Fillon à Douai, et bien d’autres encore.

Hein ? Quoi ? Chavez po quo qu’ch’est qu’in Géant deuch’Nord?

Et bien c’est un héros bienveillant, une figure légendaire, un protecteur, un symbole, qui est lié à une ville et qui la parcourt en marchant et en dansant au moment du carnaval ou de la fête locale… La tradition serait née au Portugal au 13ème siècle (en tout cas c’est là qu’on en a les premiers témoignages), puis on les rencontre dans les Pays bas à partir du 15ème siècle. Dans le Nord, les plus anciens sont Gayant et Marie de Douai (16ème siècle) mais on en a vu beaucoup de nouveaux apparaître depuis les années 80, avec le revival des carnavals… Bon en pratique c’est un grand personnage (ou figure animale) qui mesure plusieurs mètres; la structure est en osier, le corps est souvent en papier mâché mais la tête peut être en bois comme à Ath (bois de tilleul), et les vêtements et les accessoires sont de tissu, cuir et bois. La robe évasée (pour les géants mâles comme femelles) permet à un ou des porteurs de se glisser sous le géant pour le déplacer à la seule force des bras, épaules et jambes, et même lui faire faire des pas de danse ! Il y a plus de 1500 géants en Belgique et 450 dans les Hauts de France, très majoritairement dans les départements du Nord et du Pas de Calais.

A Ath des géants il y en a … PLEIN ! Je n’en ai jamais vu autant en même temps. Et chacun d'entre eux n'est porté que par un seul homme à la fois (à l’exception de Bayard, vous verrez plus loin pourquoi), alors que la structure pèse plus de 100 kilos… les porteurs se succèdent donc rapidement ! La Ducasse d’Ath et ses géants sont inscrits au patrimoine culturel immatériel de l’humanité depuis 2008, comme éléments des « Géants et dragons processionnels de Belgique et de France ».

La ducasse d’Ath est de surcroît remarquable par son ancienneté, et son ancrage local ; il est fait mention d’une procession dès 1399, et aujourd’hui les nombreuses compagnies musicales sont encore locales (Ath et communes avoisinantes). Le rendez-vous est extrêmement populaire : une bonne partie de la population est là, toutes générations confondues… Tous connaissent les groupes, chars et géants, et chacun a son préféré ! A l’origine, ce sont des groupes religieux qui défilaient et illustraient des épisodes de la Bible ou de la Légende dorée. Puis progressivement le défilé s’est sécularisé et n’a cessé d’évoluer en intégrant de nouveaux géants, des personnages historiques ou des allégories, en lien avec l’histoire locale (Ath, Hainaut belge, Belgique).

Enfin, les très beaux chars sont tous tirés par de magnifiques chevaux de trait, et ça c’est extraordinaire ! Le conseil communal est lui-même embarqué dans de belles calèches qui closent le défilé.

Pour finir avec cette longue introduction, sachez que la Ducasse d’Ath dure plusieurs jours mais que le point culminant en est la procession extrêmement codifiée qui a lieu le 4ème dimanche d’Août (en fait la procession passe 2 fois, une le matin et une l’après-midi).

Alors, ch’est parti !

En ce dimanche 26 août, nous voici donc à Ath en début d’après-midi pour voir la procession. Quel engouement populaire ! Chacun arbore les couleurs de la ville (violet, jaune et blanc), souvent avec un collier de tissu torsadé. Tout le monde est content, souriant, depuis le bambin hilare jusqu’à la guillerette centenaire, qui boit sa bière avec le cousin aux joues rubicondes et la jolie nièce blondinette aux brins d’juda (aux tâches de rousseur). ça s’apostrophe, ça rigole, ça chantonne, ça se congratule dans tous les coins.

Les gens commencent à se positionner aux endroits stratégiques du parcours, à savoir des endroits élargis où les géants vont s’arrêter pour exécuter une danse, sous les flonflons des fanfares qui les accompagnent. Et des fanfares, y’en a, au moins une par géant et par char !

L’attente passe vite dans cette ambiance joyeuse. A un moment, la musique se fait plus forte, et voici qu’apparaît enfin le premier géant ! Il s’agit de « l’aigle à deux têtes », sur lequel un bambin (un vrai) est assis, bien sécurisé sur sa petite chaise.

Présent dans le cortège depuis la fin du 17��me siècle, il n’avait au départ qu’une tête (normal, quoi) et accompagnait la confrérie des tailleurs. Il gagna une deuxième tête lors de la visite royale de 1854 (allez savoir pourquoi !). Il est haut de 3 mètres 30, et il pèse 115 kilos (sans l’enfant). Tous les hommes que vous voyez en blanc sont des porteurs qui se relaient. Sa danse consiste à faire tourner sur lui-même l’oiseau… on se dit que ch’tiot là haut doit avoir la tête qui tourne !

Puis, c’est la « barque des pêcheurs napolitains ». C’est un char magnifique, qui représente un navire et aux gréements duquel des jolis marins sont accrochés. Ce char apparut dans le défilé pour la première fois en 1856.

Il est suivi d’un géant humain, juché sur des échasses. C’est « Saint christophe de Flobech », qui tient un bâton fleuri et porte le Christ sur ses épaules (là ce n’est pas un vrai enfant !). Apparu au 19ème siècle, il disparut ensuite du cortège avant d’y être réintroduit en 1976.

Voici maintenant la compagnie des « Bleus », revêtus de l’uniforme français. Cette compagnie est l’héritière de l’ancienne compagnie des canonniers-arquebusiers, et elle ponctue son défilé de salves !

A suivre: le géant Samson!

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Mathews 3 weeks ago · Voyajou

A Brief A to Z of Peru

Foreword This text has been proofread many times. Sorry if some points in this A to Z have already been covered on this forum. Text and drawings by the author.

Peru is still a very vast country, with so much to see, and obviously this text can't list all the attractions of the country.

*Abiseo (River) A national park that's very hard to access and doesn’t seem open to visitors. Includes the Gran Pajaten site (see below). Personally, it really sparks my imagination (not visited personally)

*Aguas Calientes the town next to Machu Picchu, more precisely below the archaeological site. As far as I know, you can only get there by train. Reminds me of the market where stalls line both sides of the tracks near Bangkok. I love it

*Altiplano: somewhere the "heart" of the Andes. I was able to trek across it on foot, starting from Caracollo in Bolivia, and of course, it’s vast plains to explore. This is where people live in a very rural way. Andean populations are quite austere compared to those in the lowlands or on the coast. You really have to appreciate the harshness of life to live there. Life is anything but superficial. I set a compass heading and found myself walking west toward the expanse of water near a place called La Joya. For pitching the tent, the nights were still chilly

*Canyon del Colca One of the deepest canyons in the world. Personally, I hiked down and back up on foot. The toughest stretch I’ve ever covered in my life.

*Ceviche More or less the national dish. A marinade of fish, shellfish, and lime. But you can find it in some restaurants in Europe, France, and certainly in Belgium or Switzerland. In the small restaurants of Pisco, you can eat excellent ceviche

*Cerro Sechín: Mostly bas-reliefs. A site little known to travelers in the Casma province. The first vestiges of a pre-Inca civilization with iconography similar to that of Chavín (not visited personally)

*Chan Chan A large city of the Chimú civilization and relatively vast to visit. You can see adobe walls with bas-reliefs. Visit from Trujillo, take a colectivo. Plan for the whole day

*Charango: a small guitar widely used in Andean music

*Chauchilla A necropolis near Nazca where you can see mummies exposed on the ground. YouTubers can do paranormal experiments there. And for anyone wondering about the fate of the soul and body after death, here’s the answer: the body remains after death. You can imagine your own flesh and body exposed to the winds of the Pampa and before eternity... (not visited personally)

*Chavín de Huántar (Lanzón) The site’s appeal lies in its mountainous surroundings, the Lanzón stela, and the sculpted heads on the façades. What few people know is that the Chavín civilization began its expansion centuries before the Incas. Unfortunately, you can’t get too close to see the Lanzón—the day I was there, it was protected by grilles. To get there: minibus from Huaraz or trek from Olleros. Then cross a high pass (over 5,000m). If you do it solo on foot, be careful—the path isn’t obvious from Olleros

*Chullpa: funerary tower, notably at Sillustani in the Lake Titicaca region

*Chimú: pre-Inca civilization whose center was Chan Chan.

*Chola/Cholitas (Bolivia): typical clothing style of women from the Andean plateaus

*Chompa: pronounce it *Chompaaa!* A common term for a wool sweater with vicuña patterns, often knitted from alpaca wool. If you dress like this, it’s a bit kitschy around the edges

*Cuy That one isn’t a guinea pig like in Guyana but an actual guinea pig. During a trip to Peru, I was hiking near a village north of Quillabamba (the terminus of the train line that passes through Aguas Calientes), and I was invited to stay in a house. The family raised a few of these pets. Apparently, the locals eat them. Since I’m not much of a meat-eater, it doesn’t really tempt me. How about you?

*Pacific Coast or how to talk about a place you haven’t visited? Except for the coast near Pisco and San Andrés, I haven’t visited any coastal cities. But that doesn’t mean these places lack interest or poetry. For fans of clichéd images, pelicans, seabirds, and fishing boats appear by the sea.

*Gran Pajaten: also closed to the public. Features anthropomorphic bas-reliefs. (not visited personally)

*Huaca. Visit the Huaca del Sol and Huaca de la Luna, especially near Trujillo. However, you can skip them—Chan Chan is still more interesting. Don’t forget to spend time visiting Chan Chan

*Huacachina A small oasis in the desert near Ica. Yes, we’re talking about an oasis because for those who’ve never traveled to Peru, the coastal strip along the Pacific is almost entirely desert, from north to south. Peru is territorially made up of three different regions: the desert coast, the Altiplano stretching north to south with mountain ranges (the Cordilleras), and the Amazon basin to the east. (not visited personally)

*Inca Kola It’s neither Coca-Cola nor Pepsi but a unique cola with a slightly orange color. Tastes like bubble gum

*Intiwatana: a carved rock shaped like a parallelepiped. Is it a sundial?

*Ballestas Islands: a highlight in Peru, though very touristy. You can only get there by boat from the port of San Andrés, a few kilometers from Pisco. It’s a surreal place to me—actually islets with cavities where sea lions and fur seals live. Since it’s a protected area, you’re not allowed to disembark. Guano is harvested there, which can be used as fertilizer.

*Kuelap: a fortress built by the Chachapoyas people. Rarely visited by travelers. (not visited personally)

*Larco Museum: an iconic museum in Lima with a large collection of pieces from archaeological and pre-Columbian sites. From what I remember, it has many pieces from the Moche civilization. As for the Moche statuettes, the prudish might look away. Probably a veneration of the god Priapus without knowing it.

*Nazca Lines Discovered by German archaeologist Maria Reiche, they stretch for kilometers. The designs in the desert around Nazca depict animals and cabalistic signs. The question I ask myself is why the creators of these lines represented a monkey and a hummingbird—species endemic to the tropical forest, not the desert plains around Nazca.

*Machu Picchu: means "old mountain" in Quechua. There’s also Wayna Picchu. The ruins of the site emerge from a sort of small plateau above Aguas Calientes. When the mist rises above the site and the bend of the Urubamba River, it’s truly magical... Also the starting point of the Inca Trail.

*Coca tea A decoction/infusion of the coca plant, meant to ease altitude sickness or *soroche*

*Chullo A rough translation would be a Peruvian wool hat.

*Moche: a civilization established in the Moche Valley, hence the term *Mochica*. What characterizes this civilization are the distinctive clay pieces representing faces and erotic statuettes

*Papa a la Huancaína A local potato dish

*Pisac: a typical market near Cusco

*Pisco Sour: perhaps the Peruvian equivalent of the *caipirinha* you drink in Brazil.

*Puya Raimondii A Bromeliaceae that still looks like a cactus, endemic to the Altiplano

*Quechua The language spoken by the indigenous people of the high plateaus (as well as Aymara in Bolivia)

*Quipu A knotted string used for counting. Widely used by the Inca administration.

*Sacsayhuamán (Q’enqo, Inca Bath) From Cusco’s Plaza de Armas, take the streets that climb above the city. Sacsayhuamán is called a fortress and is made up of large stone blocks. You wonder how the Incas could cut such huge blocks to assemble them—just like some streets in Cusco. The Q’enqo block is enigmatic; no one really knows what it represents.

*Savia Andina An Andean folk group.

*Tambo (=> Ollantaytambo) The Inca emperor (Atahualpa, Manco Capac) had the mission of controlling a vast empire. An empire that was still very extensive. Hence the importance of these *tambos* or relay stations. Napoleon created the civil code; the Incas invented the *tambos* and *quipus*.

*Tawantinsuyu: the Inca Empire

*Tinku: a warrior dance practiced mainly in Bolivia

*Golden Tumi: a sacrificial weapon. Often featured in Peru travel guides. See illustration

*Terra X: a documentary series from the German TV channel that aired on Arte. Some episodes focused on pre-Inca and Inca Peru. I must have some old recording tapes. In memory of Gottfried Kirchner as a source of inspiration.

*Uros: I checked—it actually refers to the people who live on these floating islands. Even if it’s touristy, it’s a must-visit because it’s incredible how people can live on islets made from nothing. Take the boat from Puno

*Vicuña, llama, guanaco: camelids characteristic of the Altiplano

*Wayna Picchu The young Picchu mountain. In the first minutes of *Aguirre, the Wrath of God*, you see Klaus Kinski—well, Aguirre—making his way along the Inca Trail. Werner Herzog must have broken his back filming those sequences.

*Zampoña: pan flute

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Viovio2 4 weeks ago · Jeeaan

15-day itinerary in southern Morocco

Last October, we landed in Marrakech to spend a few days with family exploring Morocco’s roads. Transport: a rented Dacia. Accommodations: small guesthouses.

Our first stop was just a few kilometers from Marrakech, at a lovely house perfect for relaxing and recharging before continuing. It’s called Bleu House, a little paradise on the outskirts of Marrakech. The welcome was very warm, with a beautiful pool and a lovely garden.

Next, we headed toward the Tichka Pass. The road has really improved in recent years—it’s much easier to drive now. No more getting stuck behind trucks, and today, the construction is practically finished.

Morocco has turned green after the recent rains. It’s a joy for the herds and shepherds.

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Olap 4 weeks ago · Ylangylang

9 days in Sardinia by bike

Leaving on Sunday, September 28, 2025, from Montpellier: I’m taking the train with my bike and panniers to Nice for the evening ferry departure to Porto Torres in Sardinia. Nice is gorgeous.

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Bibouns51 4 weeks ago · Libertad31

Off on an adventure in Sri Lanka

Day 1 – December 6

Our decision is our decision. And it’s firm and final. Next winter, our plane will spread its great wings toward the island of Ceylon! "Wait a minute... Ceylon... Ceylon... that name rings a bell, but I can’t quite place it on the globe Grandma gave me for Christmas! Ceylon... Oh right, I’ve got it: Ceylon is the name of my tea!" Exactly. But the name on your pretty tea box is also the one used until 1972 for this island nation, a speck on the Indian Ocean at the southern tip of the Indian subcontinent: Sri Lanka!

For this new adventure, I’m exceptionally leaving my Flo behind, cowardly replaced by a double dose of testosterone. To write the book of this journey with me, I’m bringing along my brother, who’s used to this kind of thing, and... a guest star: My model of resilience. My dad! All aboard! Or rather, all aboard our tuk-tuk! Yes, you read that right: A real tuk-tuk, a little colorful rolling box that putters along at two miles an hour. The idea? Well, Sri Lanka and its winding roads overlooking the vastness of lush nature are tailor-made for this kind of vehicle. And since it’s one of only two countries in the world that allow foreigners to rent and drive these mini speedsters, we’ll be crisscrossing the island in our two-square-meter rolling box. Plus, adopting this mode of transport is a surefire way to connect directly with the locals, who’ll surely be curious to see a foreigner driving their iconic vehicle. Not to mention the... let’s say... spicy anecdotes it might generate. I mean, heading into a subtropical zone with my jet-black dad and his unpredictable digestive flora while deliberately choosing the tuk-tuk as our *only* means of transport? That’s the winning combo for an unforgettable adventure! "More seriously, Dad, Sullivan, I’m already loving the idea of living this adventure together, the three of us—brothers and father..."

So, does the intro to this new adventure get your salivary glands going? Yes? Too bad. Because unfortunately, the program handed out by the lady at the entrance has been slightly... let’s say *crumpled*. Some might even say "scrunched up and nearly tossed in the trash." First, six days ago, as the countdown echoed in us like a call to adventure, Cyclone Ditwah grabbed Sri Lanka, played with it like a rag doll, and left it battered on the ground. The toll is devastating: over a thousand dead, thousands of homes wiped out by relentless rains, roads and railways swallowed by massive mudslides. A country wounded once again, after the civil war, the 2004 tsunami, and the post-Covid economic crisis.

But as if this weather disaster wasn’t enough to shake our unbreakable adventurer spirit, fate decided to mess with us further by cutting our trio down to two. The victim? My brother, violently turned away because of a simple date on his passport that didn’t match the border officials’ expectations. Return to sender!

So now it’s just the two of us allowed to board the Qatar Airways Airbus A380 for this trip. If he were here, Denis Brognart would say, "And in the end, only one remains!" Except I know you’ll be with us, following our adventures! Right?

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Lewinch 4 weeks ago

Slovenia and Northern Italy without a car

Here’s the itinerary for a ten-day trip through Slovenia and Northern Italy using local transport.

Saturday, May 2: Arrival

Arrived in Ljubljana on a Transavia flight from Paris. I’d spotted a bus connection to the city center, but it’s worth noting there’s no dedicated line—most buses stopping at the airport come from Bled. On a sunny Saturday afternoon, the bus was already packed with people who’d headed to the lake for some fresh air. I ended up taking a shared van, with drivers actively offering transfers to travelers. I paid 12 € for the ride to the train station, then walked 15 minutes to Hotel Celica. It lives up to its description as a former prison turned hotel—close to the city center, clean, with a hearty breakfast. The rooms are basic, with beds 3 meters off the ground, accessible by a wooden ladder. For dinner, I opted for an Indian restaurant.

Sunday, May 3: Urban marathon

Good news: museums are free on the first Sunday of the month. I started with the National Gallery, then took a stroll through Tivoli Park, enjoying the outdoors. I tried grilling in the park before heading to the Museum of Modern Art and the eclectic National Museum of Slovenia, which was interesting for its architecture. Next up was the castle—you can enter the grounds for free; the only reason to pay is to access the keep for the city views.

Monday, May 4: Bled

I spent the morning exploring Ljubljana’s architecture but was disappointed by the Krakovo district, which guidebooks had hyped up.

In the afternoon, I took the bus to Bled. The hostel was right at the bus station, and I soon realized I’d be the only guest—the owner was struggling to attract visitors. I walked around the lake and searched for the viewpoint access. It’s a steep climb with a staircase, but worth it.

Tuesday, May 5: Vintgar Gorge

I headed to the gorges early in the morning via a shuttle, then walked back to Bled. It was stunning—it reminded me a bit of the Samaria Gorge I’d visited last year.

The bus took me straight to Stara Fužina near Lake Bohinj, where I stayed in a homestay. I loved it, even though there wasn’t much interaction with the hosts.

The weather was overcast and misty, giving the lake a Scottish vibe.

Wednesday, May 6: Bohinj

Rainy day, so I took the bus to Ukanc at the far end of the lake and walked back.

Thursday, May 7: Mostnica Gorge and the auto-train

I set off on foot for the gorges from Stara Fužina, taking a detour up to Planina Uskovnica, a steep and rarely used trail. The views of Triglav and the traditional alpine huts were incredible.

I then took the auto-train to Most na Soči. The passenger section has compartments, and the windows can be opened. The ride through the gorges was breathtaking. I stayed at a family-run guesthouse near the Most na Soči station—authentic and cozy.

Friday, May 8: Tolmin Gorge and Nova Gorica

I took the bus to Tolmin, then walked 30 minutes to the gorges. The trail is well-maintained but short, so I extended my hike with a scenic loop through the gorges and nearby villages.

A quick train ride later, I was in Nova Gorica for the night, positioning myself to reach the Adriatic coast the next day. I explored at a fast pace—Villa Raffut on the Slovenian side, then crossed the border to visit Palazzo Attems-Petzenstein and grab an aperitivo in the main square. You could tell I was in Italy just by the vibe. The old border checkpoint is still there.

Saturday, May 9: Piran

Three trains and a bus later, I arrived. The journey was scenic, and it was worth it.

Piran is touristy but manageable. It feels like a mix of Croatia and Italy, with both influences evident. The maritime museum was fascinating, with its detailed ship models. There’s still a local feel—there was even a great blues concert by the harbor that evening.

Sunday, May 10: Piran

I walked to Izola along the coast—a beautiful route with paths, roads, and lakes. It was Sunday, and the tip of the village was lively with families picnicking. I decided to take the bus to Koper. The regional museum was quiet, but the garden was stunning.

Monday, May 11: Trieste

The bus connection from Koper was frequent and easy. Trieste is very open to the sea. I visited the castle and the massive Revoltella Museum—good timing, since it was raining. The collection spans everything from classical to contemporary art.

I missed my connection to Stresa later that day, so I had to improvise a night in a dorm near Milan’s train station.

Tuesday, May 12: Stresa

I came mainly for the Borromean Islands. First impressions weren’t great—crowded at the dock and windy. I didn’t like Isola Bella—too many people and too flashy. I much preferred Isola Madre, with its peaceful gardens where you can find solitude. On the way back, I stopped at Isola dei Pescatori after some hesitation, and it was worth it. Finally, I explored Stresa, with its colorful houses and grand palaces.

Wednesday, May 13: Heading to the Jura

I wrapped up my trip by taking the EuroCity train from Milan to Geneva via the Simplon Pass. From there, I headed to my vacation spot, taking the train from Nyon to La Cure (on the border). The rest of the journey was private.

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Pinacoladada 4 weeks ago

Second trip to Curaçao Island

Returning to Curaçao is a bit like reopening a book whose pages still smell of sun and salt.

As soon as the plane descends toward the island, the familiar colors reappear: the dazzling turquoise of the sea, the pastel facades of Willemstad, and that unique light that seems to soften everything.

For this second trip, we no longer arrive as hesitant explorers, but as confirmed lovers of this warm island.

We already know that the warm wind will welcome us as soon as we step out of the airport, that the beaches will once again offer their infinite shades of blue, and that each day will have that unhurried pace that makes you forget the rest of the world.

Yet, despite this sense of déjà vu, Curaçao always manages to surprise. A new cove to discover, a different sunset, a smile shared with a local...

The island has that rare talent for reinventing itself without ever betraying what makes it so endearing.

This second trip isn’t a repetition, then, but a reunion: a chance to rediscover Curaçao with more attentive, more connected, and perhaps even more amazed eyes.

I invite you to keep reading this travel journal and watch the videos that will help you learn a little more about the island’s different attractions.

Just click on the video image to start watching.

To go to a specific post, here are the appropriate links:

Exploring Willemstad’s colorful neighborhoods The Most Beautiful Beaches in Curaçao Hike at Boka Sint Michiel | Flamingos & panoramic views Climbing Christoffel Mountain Den Dunki & Flamingos of Jan Thiel Must-see spots in Curaçao Snorkeling at Playa Kenepa Chiki: Turquoise Water & Tropical Fish Snorkeling at Porto Mari: One of Curaçao’s Best Spots Snorkeling at Mambo Beach, the Perfect Spot Snorkeling at Daaibooi Beach, a diverse marine world

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