Turquie - Iran - Asie Centrale à vélo en hiver
by Jerome0609
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Avis aux cyclistes en provenance du froid!
Je m'apprête à partir pour un voyage au long cours en cyclo à partir de début décembre. Je n'ai pas d'expérience de ce type de voyage et ne sais pas trop à quoi m'attendre. J'aimerais partir vers l'Asie en passant par la Turquie, l'Iran, l'Asie Centrale...
En partant début décembre de France il est clair que je passerai les 4 premiers mois dans le froid. Est-ce que quelqu'un a déjà roulé en Turquie et en Iran en hiver? Dois-je m'attendre à un parcours du combattant ou est-ce que le froid n'est pas un problème avec le bon équipement? L'important est tout de même de se faire plaisir...
Merci pour vos conseils,
Jerome
« Un voyage de mille lieues commence toujours par un premier pas »
salut ayant ete en turquie l hiver la temperature etait correct 20 degres et etant en jordanie en janvier il faisait bon a rouler et je pars en octobre 2015 direction l inde en passant turquie et iran dommage que nos dates se croisent bon voyage
un homme qui ne s émerveille plus a pratiquement cesser de vivre. Albert E
Est-ce que quelqu'un a déjà roulé en Turquie et en Iran en hiver? Dois-je m'attendre à un parcours du combattant ou est-ce que le froid n'est pas un problème avec le bon équipement?
La Turquie c'est grand et les climats sont variés. Sur la côte méditerranéenne, c'est sûr qu'il doit faire bon en hiver, mais dans l'est, c'est pas la même chose.
J'ai pédalé dans l'est de la Turquie (région du lac de Van + Dogubeyazit et frontière iranienne) et dans le nord-ouest de l'Iran (Tabriz - Khorram Abad - Ispahan) en janvier - février. Il faisait bien froid : températures toujours négatives la nuit et descendant jusqu'à -15 voire -20°C ; températures souvent légèrement positives la journée ; quelques jours sans dégel (je crois 3 jours de suite) autour du lac de Van. J'ai eu pas mal de neige : j'ai été bloqué une journée par des chutes de Neige autour du lac de Van et deux fois par une tempête de neige en franchissant un col en Iran. Ce qui est sur, c'est qu'il faut être bien équipé (vêtement adaptés, tente 4 saisons et excellent duvet). Et ensuite, ça se fait. C'était une super expérience pour moi. Les paysages étaient fantastiques. Je mets quelques photos.
Mais si tu pars de France en décembre, tu arriveras en fin d'hiver, voire début de printemps dans l'est de la Turquie et en Iran, non ?
Gael
La Turquie c'est grand et les climats sont variés. Sur la côte méditerranéenne, c'est sûr qu'il doit faire bon en hiver, mais dans l'est, c'est pas la même chose.
J'ai pédalé dans l'est de la Turquie (région du lac de Van + Dogubeyazit et frontière iranienne) et dans le nord-ouest de l'Iran (Tabriz - Khorram Abad - Ispahan) en janvier - février. Il faisait bien froid : températures toujours négatives la nuit et descendant jusqu'à -15 voire -20°C ; températures souvent légèrement positives la journée ; quelques jours sans dégel (je crois 3 jours de suite) autour du lac de Van. J'ai eu pas mal de neige : j'ai été bloqué une journée par des chutes de Neige autour du lac de Van et deux fois par une tempête de neige en franchissant un col en Iran. Ce qui est sur, c'est qu'il faut être bien équipé (vêtement adaptés, tente 4 saisons et excellent duvet). Et ensuite, ça se fait. C'était une super expérience pour moi. Les paysages étaient fantastiques. Je mets quelques photos.
Mais si tu pars de France en décembre, tu arriveras en fin d'hiver, voire début de printemps dans l'est de la Turquie et en Iran, non ?
Gael
http://www.sionjouait.com
"Peut-être que la seule façon de ne pas perdre son temps, c'est tout simplement de le prendre" (Claude MARTHALER)
J'imagine que les températures doivent tout de même beaucoup baisser en se rapprochant des montagnes... Je vais essayer de prendre du matos 4 saisons au cas où le froid m'attrape.
Bon voyage en 2015!
« Un voyage de mille lieues commence toujours par un premier pas »
Salut Gaël,
Ce sera mon premier voyage en vélo et dans des zones montagneuses / froides alors je me pose beaucoup de questions!
Merci pour ton message et les photos, ca fait envi! En partant fin novembre je ne sais pas trop où je serai 3 ou 4 mois plus tard. J'aimerais bien être à l'été dans les contreforts de l'Himalaya...
Conseillerais-tu une tente en particulier? Je pense voyager pendant un bon moment et voudrais trouver une tente robuste même si elle pèse un peu plus lourd...
Pour le duvet, tu penses qu'un température de confort de -10° est suffisant?
Dernière question, quels types de vêtements avais-tu pour ton trip dans l'est de la Turquie en hiver? une sous-couche thermique, une polaire et une veste coupe vent? Quel type de veste avais-tu?
Merci! Jerome
Merci pour ton message et les photos, ca fait envi! En partant fin novembre je ne sais pas trop où je serai 3 ou 4 mois plus tard. J'aimerais bien être à l'été dans les contreforts de l'Himalaya...
Conseillerais-tu une tente en particulier? Je pense voyager pendant un bon moment et voudrais trouver une tente robuste même si elle pèse un peu plus lourd...
Pour le duvet, tu penses qu'un température de confort de -10° est suffisant?
Dernière question, quels types de vêtements avais-tu pour ton trip dans l'est de la Turquie en hiver? une sous-couche thermique, une polaire et une veste coupe vent? Quel type de veste avais-tu?
Merci! Jerome
« Un voyage de mille lieues commence toujours par un premier pas »
Salut Jérôme,
Je n'ai pas vraiment une tente à te conseiller. Mais le conseil que je peux te donner c'est de ne pas trop rechigner à y mettre le prix. N'oublie pas que ce sera ta maison pour un bout de temps ! J'avais une tente Vaude Taurus II Ultralight (je l'ai toujours d'ailleurs). J'ai pas trop à m'en plaindre, mais je prendrai peut-être une gamme au-dessus pour mon prochain voyage (si prochain voyage il y a).
Côté duvet, j'avais un duvet Valandré (swing 700). Il me semble que la température de confort était de -5°C je crois. Il a été limite peut-être une petite dizaine de nuits. Si c'était à refaire, je prendrais le Swing 900 et ce serait parfait je pense. Je peux pas te dire pour la température de confort à -10°, ça dépend vraiment des marques.
Côté vêtements, j'avais une sous-couche thermique, une polaire et une veste (pas gore-tex, mais décath, plus typée alpi). En roulant, on a pas trop froid en général (à part aux mains et aux pieds : prévoir de bons gants). Par contre il faut prévoir de quoi bien se couvrir le soir parce que c'est là qu'on a vite froid. J'avais une seconde polaire. Je pense qu'une veste en duvet serait idéale (légère et qui ne prend pas trop de place une fois compressée).
gael
Je n'ai pas vraiment une tente à te conseiller. Mais le conseil que je peux te donner c'est de ne pas trop rechigner à y mettre le prix. N'oublie pas que ce sera ta maison pour un bout de temps ! J'avais une tente Vaude Taurus II Ultralight (je l'ai toujours d'ailleurs). J'ai pas trop à m'en plaindre, mais je prendrai peut-être une gamme au-dessus pour mon prochain voyage (si prochain voyage il y a).
Côté duvet, j'avais un duvet Valandré (swing 700). Il me semble que la température de confort était de -5°C je crois. Il a été limite peut-être une petite dizaine de nuits. Si c'était à refaire, je prendrais le Swing 900 et ce serait parfait je pense. Je peux pas te dire pour la température de confort à -10°, ça dépend vraiment des marques.
Côté vêtements, j'avais une sous-couche thermique, une polaire et une veste (pas gore-tex, mais décath, plus typée alpi). En roulant, on a pas trop froid en général (à part aux mains et aux pieds : prévoir de bons gants). Par contre il faut prévoir de quoi bien se couvrir le soir parce que c'est là qu'on a vite froid. J'avais une seconde polaire. Je pense qu'une veste en duvet serait idéale (légère et qui ne prend pas trop de place une fois compressée).
gael
http://www.sionjouait.com
"Peut-être que la seule façon de ne pas perdre son temps, c'est tout simplement de le prendre" (Claude MARTHALER)
Bonjour 😉
Pas besoin de blabla, tu suis Javier C , ce jeune ingénieur madrilène dont tu dois connaître le périple. De toutes ses videos, celle-là est la plus instructive. Tu as déjà dû la visionner. Il a été bien soigné au Pakistan.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y0MM8RE1oPU
Cordialement Bernard, grand admirateur des cyclos.
Pas besoin de blabla, tu suis Javier C , ce jeune ingénieur madrilène dont tu dois connaître le périple. De toutes ses videos, celle-là est la plus instructive. Tu as déjà dû la visionner. Il a été bien soigné au Pakistan.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y0MM8RE1oPU
Cordialement Bernard, grand admirateur des cyclos.
Jérôme,
Tu vas te geler...
J'ai traversé la Turquie 2 fois au coeur de l'hiver, beaucoup de neige, de congères et de vent sur le Plateau Anatolien. Il fait VRAIMENT froid et la neige réduit souvent la largeur des routes, ce qui rend le vélo un peu dangereux... C'est faisable, mais pas la meilleure saison pour se balader dans la région. Le temps est un peu plus clément le long de la côte méditerranéenne.
Idem pour le Caucase ou tout le nord-ouest de l'Iran. Tu ne pourras pas aller partout, beaucoup de cols n'étant pas déneigés.
Bon courage,
L.
Tu vas te geler...
J'ai traversé la Turquie 2 fois au coeur de l'hiver, beaucoup de neige, de congères et de vent sur le Plateau Anatolien. Il fait VRAIMENT froid et la neige réduit souvent la largeur des routes, ce qui rend le vélo un peu dangereux... C'est faisable, mais pas la meilleure saison pour se balader dans la région. Le temps est un peu plus clément le long de la côte méditerranéenne.
Idem pour le Caucase ou tout le nord-ouest de l'Iran. Tu ne pourras pas aller partout, beaucoup de cols n'étant pas déneigés.
Bon courage,
L.
Bonjour Yves,
je me permets de reprendre ton dernier message. J'ai comme projet de rallier la France à l'Iran entre septembre et novembre prochain, et de revenir. Du coup, je devrais me retrouver dans l'est de la Turquie début décembre.
Sais-tu si les routes sont praticables, sur les axes principaux?
Je te remercie Malo
je me permets de reprendre ton dernier message. J'ai comme projet de rallier la France à l'Iran entre septembre et novembre prochain, et de revenir. Du coup, je devrais me retrouver dans l'est de la Turquie début décembre.
Sais-tu si les routes sont praticables, sur les axes principaux?
Je te remercie Malo
"La montagne offre à l'homme tout ce que la société moderne oublie de lui donner" - Sami Weill
Salut Malo,
L'hiver, le vrai, arrive en général assez vite et assez tard, en général courant novembre. J'étais à Tabriz à la mi-novembre et le temps était toujours beau, bien que frisquet. J'ai commencé à avoir de la neige 2 semaines plus tard au nord de l'Arménie. Tous les cols géorgiens étaient enneigés mais la route principale, celle qui mène de Tbilissi à Batumi était entretenue, idem sur les grands axes turcs. Je me suis fait prendre à plusieurs reprises sur des routes plus petites, congères et glissades au rendez-vous. A la limite du roulable et températures vraiment basses. C'est donc faisable... Cordialement,
Yves.
L'hiver, le vrai, arrive en général assez vite et assez tard, en général courant novembre. J'étais à Tabriz à la mi-novembre et le temps était toujours beau, bien que frisquet. J'ai commencé à avoir de la neige 2 semaines plus tard au nord de l'Arménie. Tous les cols géorgiens étaient enneigés mais la route principale, celle qui mène de Tbilissi à Batumi était entretenue, idem sur les grands axes turcs. Je me suis fait prendre à plusieurs reprises sur des routes plus petites, congères et glissades au rendez-vous. A la limite du roulable et températures vraiment basses. C'est donc faisable... Cordialement,
Yves.
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I’m making an exception and creating a separate post this time, since it’s all about France. In May, we spent a week in Provence, specifically in the Luberon, exploring the cycling routes *Autour du Luberon à Vélo*, the *Véloroute du Calavon* (part of EuroVelo 8), and the shorter *Les Ocres à Vélo* route. Together, they gave us an amazing journey through rolling hills, vineyards, lavender fields still green in spring, and some of the most stunning landscapes in southern France.

It was, of course, the perched villages that impressed us the most. We visited Gordes, Roussillon, Bonnieux, Lacoste, Lourmarin, Ménerbes, Oppède-le-Vieux, Cucuron, and Lauris. Many of them are among the most beautiful villages in Provence, and it’s hard not to agree with that reputation.




One interesting point is the route of EuroVelo 8 in this part of the region. The official path mainly follows the old railway line of the *Véloroute du Calavon*, which is very comfortable and safe. But in our opinion, cyclists traveling EuroVelo 8 around the Mediterranean would discover even more treasures if the route passed through villages like Bonnieux, Lacoste, or Oppède-le-Vieux.


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Happy owner of a Pegasus Estremo bike with a Rohloff hub, which is giving me trouble with the SF11-NCX-FT-E-LITE 700C TS 300/0 fork (serial number TD01329060). It’s starting to show its age, and I’d like to repair it to extend the life of my beloved bike.
The suspension is gone, and there’s an oil leak from the seals.
Does anyone know how to repair it? Where can I find parts that are about fifteen years old? Or where to find an identical replacement fork? Just to clarify, the Magura HS11 brakes are mounted using Firm Tech, meaning they’re on pivots behind the fork, facing the frame.
Thanks for your help! Have a great day, Alexandre
The suspension is gone, and there’s an oil leak from the seals.
Does anyone know how to repair it? Where can I find parts that are about fifteen years old? Or where to find an identical replacement fork? Just to clarify, the Magura HS11 brakes are mounted using Firm Tech, meaning they’re on pivots behind the fork, facing the frame.
Thanks for your help! Have a great day, Alexandre
Hi, I'd like to know if anyone has done this route recently or has reliable info.
Does the track exist, and most importantly, is there sand (for biking)?
Any info is welcome.
Cheers,
diego ambilobe: mangaoka, manondro, ramena vohemar sambava: masondrono, tanambao
diego ambilobe: mangaoka, manondro, ramena vohemar sambava: masondrono, tanambao
Hi there,
New to bike touring,
I’d love to start with a section of the Via Rhona to explore and share (route to be decided).
Looking forward to exchanging tips!
hey everyone,
I’m landing in Madagascar with a buddy before the end of April 2026. We’re planning to bike around for about twenty days or so. We don’t have a specific goal other than exploring the country and meeting the locals.
Ideally, we’d prefer a loop route starting from Antananarivo with a good chunk of it along the coast. On the bike side, we’re used to riding 6 to 8 hours a day, depending on the needs, encounters, and mood 😉 Any feedback or tips from trips around this length?
Thanks in advance, Jérôme
I’m landing in Madagascar with a buddy before the end of April 2026. We’re planning to bike around for about twenty days or so. We don’t have a specific goal other than exploring the country and meeting the locals.
Ideally, we’d prefer a loop route starting from Antananarivo with a good chunk of it along the coast. On the bike side, we’re used to riding 6 to 8 hours a day, depending on the needs, encounters, and mood 😉 Any feedback or tips from trips around this length?
Thanks in advance, Jérôme
A big thank you to Lazarou for all the info you share in this forum!
I'm passionate about Morocco, which I cycled through back in 2009.
Last year, my wife and I explored the High Atlas by tandem. Completely smitten, we're heading back in April (Anti Atlas) and May (High and Middle Atlas), still on our tandem.
Do you have any info on the track between Amezri and Ali Ait Nito? Are the river crossings in the Tessaout still there? It's not easy to navigate with a loaded tandem... especially if the river level is high due to this year's heavy snowmelt!
Thanks in advance for any tips you might have, and best wishes for health in this new year!
Thanks in advance for any tips you might have, and best wishes for health in this new year!
A shout-out to a cycling colleague from Savoie
Claudio specializes in the route of the Savoie lakes Here are his travels Between Bornes, Chartreuse, the Savoie foothills, and Dauphiné Five lakes: Léman, Annecy, Paladru, Aiguebelette, Bourget, not to mention a few ponds along the way Plenty of accommodation options: camping, hotels, and more...
A lovely route not far from his place Rural and quite peaceful A road cycling route created by Serge B...
N+1 reconnaissance trips on a loop of about 400 km This way, he avoids the SNCF and its troubles http://cbandiera.free.fr/vv/lacs-savoie/recos.php

The latest reconnaissance trip from April to May 2026 http://cbandiera.free.fr/recits/2026-grenoble-H/index.php

Claudio specializes in the route of the Savoie lakes Here are his travels Between Bornes, Chartreuse, the Savoie foothills, and Dauphiné Five lakes: Léman, Annecy, Paladru, Aiguebelette, Bourget, not to mention a few ponds along the way Plenty of accommodation options: camping, hotels, and more...
A lovely route not far from his place Rural and quite peaceful A road cycling route created by Serge B...
N+1 reconnaissance trips on a loop of about 400 km This way, he avoids the SNCF and its troubles http://cbandiera.free.fr/vv/lacs-savoie/recos.php


The latest reconnaissance trip from April to May 2026 http://cbandiera.free.fr/recits/2026-grenoble-H/index.php

First of all... happy New Year! Wishing you great roads in 2017!
I’ve been traveling for a few years now with a high-quality mountain bike, but it’s equipped with hydraulic disc brakes. I live (pedal) with the constant worry of a breakdown (leak, air bubble, heat causing the fluid to...). My bike mechanic tells me it’s impossible to switch them out for V-brakes.
What do you all think? Am I taking a big risk continuing (alone) with these brakes? Thanks in advance for your great tips!
Hi everyone,
First post here to share a quick recap of our west-to-east bike trip along Algeria’s coast in January 2025. It was just the two of us—my partner and I—with French passports and not a word of Arabic. No friends or welcoming hosts in the country.
Under those conditions, we’d strongly advise against going.
Our original plan was to follow the coast from Algiers to Tunis. We ended up cycling from Algiers to Béjaia, then took the train from Béjaia to Annaba (with a stop in Constantine), and finally biked to the border. We were tailed by police the whole way—whether on our bikes, on the train, or even on foot while exploring towns. On top of that, we couldn’t wild camp and were limited to the few state-approved hotels that accept foreigners. Under those circumstances, connecting with locals was especially tough.
With such an omnipresent and intrusive police presence, we’d definitely recommend against this destination for bike touring. A really sad situation that completely cuts you off from the local population...
We’d been warned, we went to check it out, and we weren’t disappointed!
You’ve been warned.
First post here to share a quick recap of our west-to-east bike trip along Algeria’s coast in January 2025. It was just the two of us—my partner and I—with French passports and not a word of Arabic. No friends or welcoming hosts in the country.
Under those conditions, we’d strongly advise against going.
Our original plan was to follow the coast from Algiers to Tunis. We ended up cycling from Algiers to Béjaia, then took the train from Béjaia to Annaba (with a stop in Constantine), and finally biked to the border. We were tailed by police the whole way—whether on our bikes, on the train, or even on foot while exploring towns. On top of that, we couldn’t wild camp and were limited to the few state-approved hotels that accept foreigners. Under those circumstances, connecting with locals was especially tough.
With such an omnipresent and intrusive police presence, we’d definitely recommend against this destination for bike touring. A really sad situation that completely cuts you off from the local population...
We’d been warned, we went to check it out, and we weren’t disappointed!
You’ve been warned.
Hi there,
I’m planning the route to cycle from Lille to Nordkapp with my partner.
Duration: 3 months, from May 1st to July 31st, 2026.
In the attached details below, I need to add some "non-riding" days (rest days, basically).
So I’m looking to "shorten" the trip by taking ferries or trains for some stretches. Which areas could I skip?
Thanks in advance for your great tips.
Have a good evening.
https://www.komoot.com/fr-fr/collection/4023980/-lille-cap-nord-1er-mai-au-31-juillet-2026?ref=collection
Hi there,
I’m planning to bike back from Poland this summer. Does anyone know a way to ship it there without having to take it apart? Otherwise, it’s a real hassle to fine-tune all the settings before departure! Thanks in advance.
I’m planning to bike back from Poland this summer. Does anyone know a way to ship it there without having to take it apart? Otherwise, it’s a real hassle to fine-tune all the settings before departure! Thanks in advance.
Hi, has anyone recently bought Primus or Butagaz gas, possibly puncture-style, in Dubrovnik or the surrounding area? Same question for Albania... thanks. aichatou
Hi there,
Coming from Laos (*), I’m planning to enter Thailand by bike via the Fourth Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge.
Before this bridge was built, I’d already cycled the road from Louang Namtha to Houei Sai and crossed the river by boat to reach Thailand.
At the time, the condition of that road was impeccable, and most importantly, traffic was light.
So I’m wondering if anyone who’s taken it recently can tell me whether traffic has increased since the bridge opened.
Thanks in advance!
(*) I’m currently cycling in China (Yunnan)
Coming from Laos (*), I’m planning to enter Thailand by bike via the Fourth Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge.
Before this bridge was built, I’d already cycled the road from Louang Namtha to Houei Sai and crossed the river by boat to reach Thailand.
At the time, the condition of that road was impeccable, and most importantly, traffic was light.
So I’m wondering if anyone who’s taken it recently can tell me whether traffic has increased since the bridge opened.
Thanks in advance!
(*) I’m currently cycling in China (Yunnan)
Hi there,
Just a few words about the loop I did by bike in Yunnan.
Entry and exit
I entered China through the Sino-Vietnamese border crossing at Lào Cai / Hekou under the 30-day visa exemption currently available to French nationals and others.
The process was simple and quick. A Chinese police officer even helped me complete my electronic pre-registration at a computer kiosk. I wasn’t aware this formality was required—it’s similar to Thailand’s TM6.
No issues with the bike.
I left the country via the Sino-Laotian border crossing at Mohan / Boten.
The atmosphere was a bit chaotic there, but again, no problems with the bike.
The timing
I visited Yunnan in February 2026.
Weather-wise, at higher altitudes (between 1,500 and 2,000 meters), it was around ten degrees at night and in the mornings, and around twenty degrees at the hottest part of the day.
I had two days of rain, so I took the bus to keep moving. Otherwise, clear blue skies.
Culturally, Chinese New Year fell on February 17th (and the 15 days following), right in the middle of my trip. Because of this, my take on the traffic might be off.
Accommodation and food I always found a hotel to stay in for prices ranging from 8 to 15 €. Except in Kunming (the capital), where many hotels were fully booked (Chinese New Year). I ended up at a 100 € hotel with great value for money.
A bowl of noodles costs about 1.5 € on average.
Onboard electronics Since my smartphone doesn’t support eSIMs, I subscribed to a China plan with my carrier. Otherwise, for much cheaper, Alipay offers eSIMs for foreigners that allow access to services usually blocked for Chinese users (WhatsApp, Facebook, etc.).
An internet connection is essential for paying with Alipay or WeChat, as this payment method is widespread.
I only managed to use Alipay.
Either way, always carry cash because sometimes there’s no signal, or the merchant only accepts WeChat.
Also, it’s best to bring a power adapter when you arrive rather than struggling to find one.
Traffic and roads The Chinese aren’t reckless drivers. They follow traffic rules and watch out for cyclists. This is slightly less true in Xishuangbanna (the region bordering Myanmar and Laos).
In urban areas, there are almost always wide bike lanes, separated from other roads, where bikes, electric mini-scooters, and scooters share the space pretty harmoniously.
The roads are in great condition, and traffic is generally manageable—even light—except for one stretch (Eshan -> Yangwu).
Most traffic is absorbed by expressways, China’s equivalent of highways: toll roads that are off-limits to slow vehicles.
You’re never far from these expressways; sometimes you even ride alongside them, which can be noisy at times.
The climbs are usually reasonable, around 5% to 6%. From what I remember, the steepest section was between Menglun and Mengla, with gradients of 8% to 10%, sometimes more.
Riding at these altitudes—though modest—took a bit of getting used to.
The route I didn’t plan anything in advance. My only goal was to reach Kunming. I don’t know why, but just hearing the name of that city, like Yunnan, always felt dreamy to me.
Here’s the breakdown: Hekou -> Man Hao (94 km); Man Hao -> Yuanyang (64 km); Yuanyang -> Jianshui (bus); Jianshui -> Tong Hai (78 km); Tong Hai -> Chenjiang (85 km); Chenjiang -> Kunming (60 km); Kunming -> Kunyang (60 km); Kunyang -> Eshan (67 km); Eshan -> Yangwu (58 km); Yangwu -> Yuanjiang (59 km); Yuanjiang -> Pu'er (bus); Pu'er -> Dadugang (75 km); Dadugang -> Jinghong (80 km); Jinghong -> Menglun (67 km); Menglun -> Mengyuancun (51 km); Mengyuancun -> Mengla (43 km); Mengla -> Boten (67 km).
Otherwise, I’m currently in Thailand and just hoping my return flight with Qatar won’t get canceled.
Oh well... 😉
Just a few words about the loop I did by bike in Yunnan.
Entry and exit
I entered China through the Sino-Vietnamese border crossing at Lào Cai / Hekou under the 30-day visa exemption currently available to French nationals and others.
The process was simple and quick. A Chinese police officer even helped me complete my electronic pre-registration at a computer kiosk. I wasn’t aware this formality was required—it’s similar to Thailand’s TM6.
No issues with the bike.
I left the country via the Sino-Laotian border crossing at Mohan / Boten.
The atmosphere was a bit chaotic there, but again, no problems with the bike.
The timing
I visited Yunnan in February 2026.
Weather-wise, at higher altitudes (between 1,500 and 2,000 meters), it was around ten degrees at night and in the mornings, and around twenty degrees at the hottest part of the day.
I had two days of rain, so I took the bus to keep moving. Otherwise, clear blue skies.
Culturally, Chinese New Year fell on February 17th (and the 15 days following), right in the middle of my trip. Because of this, my take on the traffic might be off.
Accommodation and food I always found a hotel to stay in for prices ranging from 8 to 15 €. Except in Kunming (the capital), where many hotels were fully booked (Chinese New Year). I ended up at a 100 € hotel with great value for money.
A bowl of noodles costs about 1.5 € on average.
Onboard electronics Since my smartphone doesn’t support eSIMs, I subscribed to a China plan with my carrier. Otherwise, for much cheaper, Alipay offers eSIMs for foreigners that allow access to services usually blocked for Chinese users (WhatsApp, Facebook, etc.).
An internet connection is essential for paying with Alipay or WeChat, as this payment method is widespread.
I only managed to use Alipay.
Either way, always carry cash because sometimes there’s no signal, or the merchant only accepts WeChat.
Also, it’s best to bring a power adapter when you arrive rather than struggling to find one.
Traffic and roads The Chinese aren’t reckless drivers. They follow traffic rules and watch out for cyclists. This is slightly less true in Xishuangbanna (the region bordering Myanmar and Laos).
In urban areas, there are almost always wide bike lanes, separated from other roads, where bikes, electric mini-scooters, and scooters share the space pretty harmoniously.
The roads are in great condition, and traffic is generally manageable—even light—except for one stretch (Eshan -> Yangwu).
Most traffic is absorbed by expressways, China’s equivalent of highways: toll roads that are off-limits to slow vehicles.
You’re never far from these expressways; sometimes you even ride alongside them, which can be noisy at times.
The climbs are usually reasonable, around 5% to 6%. From what I remember, the steepest section was between Menglun and Mengla, with gradients of 8% to 10%, sometimes more.
Riding at these altitudes—though modest—took a bit of getting used to.
The route I didn’t plan anything in advance. My only goal was to reach Kunming. I don’t know why, but just hearing the name of that city, like Yunnan, always felt dreamy to me.
Here’s the breakdown: Hekou -> Man Hao (94 km); Man Hao -> Yuanyang (64 km); Yuanyang -> Jianshui (bus); Jianshui -> Tong Hai (78 km); Tong Hai -> Chenjiang (85 km); Chenjiang -> Kunming (60 km); Kunming -> Kunyang (60 km); Kunyang -> Eshan (67 km); Eshan -> Yangwu (58 km); Yangwu -> Yuanjiang (59 km); Yuanjiang -> Pu'er (bus); Pu'er -> Dadugang (75 km); Dadugang -> Jinghong (80 km); Jinghong -> Menglun (67 km); Menglun -> Mengyuancun (51 km); Mengyuancun -> Mengla (43 km); Mengla -> Boten (67 km).
Otherwise, I’m currently in Thailand and just hoping my return flight with Qatar won’t get canceled.
Oh well... 😉









