Mon voyage de Denver à Denver en passant par Grand Junction, Salt Lake City, Jackson Hole, Yellowstone, Cody, Spearfish, Rapid City, Cheyenne, a été préparé depuis le début de novembre pour un séjour du 14 juin 2017 au 28 juin 2017.
J’aurai pu rajouter Moab pour les Arches mais j’avais déjà vu ce site lors d’un précédent voyage.
J’ai voyagé seul et j’ai demandé à TUI de me réserver les hôtels et la location de la voiture. TUI est une filiale de Voyage sans frontières. J’ai opté pour cette option en partie à cause des réservations à l’intérieur du parc de Yellowstone qui paraissaient délicates.
TUI m’a envoyé très rapidement les vouchers. J’ai utilisé les avis des consommateurs sur les sites de réservation. Les avis étant très mauvais, mais vraiment très mauvais pour 2 hôtels, j’ai demandé à TUI de les changer, ce qui fut fait rapidement et sans problème.
J’ai aussi connu très rapidement les dates et horaires de vol. Un point qui m’a inquiété longtemps, je peux même dire jusqu'à mon arrivée, ce sont les 1h30 d’écart entre mon arrivée à l’aéroport de Dallas et la connexion pour Denver. J’avais des souvenirs de passages plutôt longs aux douanes américaines. Mon interlocuteur de TUI m’affirme que le temps était suffisant et que de toute façon je serai pris en charge par la compagnie American Airlines. J’avais la même crainte au retour mais moins prononcée car l’organisation de mon séjour ne pouvait plus être impactée.
Les deux connexions se sont passées correctement. Il ne faut pas trainer mais tout est mieux organisé que lors de mes voyages précédents. Dans l’avion une vidéo vous explique que vous allez gagner du temps en utilisant les nombreuses machines qui scannent votre passeport, enregistre vos empreintes digitales et vous prend en photo en vous délivrant un reçu qui permet de gagner encore du temps en passant devant les douaniers. De nombreuses personnes sont présentes pour vous renseigner et vous dépanner bien qu’ils n’utilisent que la langue de Shakespeare que je ne maitrise pas vraiment et en plus ils ont aussi le mauvais goût de ne pas parler avec un accent français.
Une autre crainte concernait la location de la voiture où j’avais eu de mauvaises surprises à mon retour la fois précédente. Mais là encore tout avait été bien préparé, je n’ai eu aucune proposition de « surclassement » ni d’ajout de « garanties supplémentaires ». Je récupère une Hyundai accent. Heureusement que j’avais prévu une prise USB à brancher sur l’allume-cigare car en branchant mon GPS sur la prise prévue sur la voiture, celui-ci se bloque en mode connexion ordinateur rendant l’accès aux cartes impossible.
Ce problème réglé, à partir de ce moment, c’est l’esprit tranquille que je prends la route. Conduire aux USA est plutôt simple à condition quand même d’avoir un GPS. Les routes sont larges même dans les villes et les américains sont plutôt des conducteurs calmes.
Guidé par les satellites, je rejoins mon premier hôtel à Denver. Là on m’indique que le paiement ne peut pas se faire à travers le voucher. Heureusement, j’ai un numéro gratuit à contacter aux US car il est 4h du matin en France. Le problème est réglé mais cela prend une heure et la soirée est bien entamée, ce soir ce sera sandwich acheté dans la station-service en face de l’hôtel.
Jeudi 15 juin 2017
Le décalage horaire me permet d’être sur le pont vers 3h pour attendre l’ouverture de la salle de restauration à 6h. L’hôtel est vieillot, nécessite une urgente rénovation mais du côté petit-déjeuner, je n’ai rien à dire, probablement le plus complet de tous ceux que j’aurai durant ce périple.
Passage par le Wal-Mart pour acheter de l’eau, du coleslaw pour la route, une glacière en polystyrène et un sac de glace.
Cela surprend quand le GPS que j’ai réglé en km, m’annonce « Continuez la route pendant 220kms » et encore ce n’est qu’un tronçon car ce sont 393 kms qui sont prévus avec environ 4h de route. Je savais bien que j’allais faire l’équivalent d’un Paris-Lyon presque tous les jours mais cela surprend quand même. Et puis les « Rest area » ce font plutôt rares sur les highways. Le premier que je rencontre est plutôt sympa et porte le nom de « No name » Je m’octroie une sieste d’un quart d’heure.
J’arrive à Grand Junction vers midi, avale mon coleslaw dans un parc et file vers le nord, direction Fruita pour acheter mon Annual Pass et rentrer dans Colorado National Monument.
On n’y retrouve pas le gigantisme du Grand Canyon mais c’est splendide et tout de même impressionnant. J’y rencontre des américains qui me demandent de les prendre en photo et qui me s’enquièrent de mon opinion sur ce lieu. Ma réponse les ravit car ils pensent qu’il n'y a pas plus beau ailleurs, même s’ils veulent bien admettre du bout des lèvres qu’il y a de beaux coins en France mais sans équivalent avec ce que l’on peut voir dans leur pays.
Je tente de retourner sans GPS en centre-ville où se trouve mon hôtel. J’ai des progrès à faire avec la signalisation. Ce n’est pas aujourd’hui que je me passerai de lui. Check in. Le réceptionniste m’indique un Safeway pour des courses alimentaires.
Vendredi 16 juin 2017
Levé 5h 30. Petit déjeuner moins diversifié que la veille mais j'ai la possibilité d'emporter une banane et une bouteille d'eau, idée qui me vient en voyant plusieurs personnes rentrer dans la pièce pour prendre de l'eau ou des gâteaux.
Je redoutais l’achat de carburant. Je savais qu’aux USA, sauf avec une carte bancaire, tu ne peux pas faire le plein et aller payer après, le pompiste doit te débloquer la pompe et inscrire un montant. Comme j’ai 550km à faire, que les pompes à essence ne sont pas trop nombreuses sur la route, que je ne sais pas combien je dois demander même si j’ai fait quelques calculs pour avoir une estimation, j’aimerais remplir le réservoir au maximum. Et bien c’est beaucoup plus simple que je le pensais, il suffit de l’expliquer au pompiste, ici une très aimable dame, qui débloque la pompe en échange du dépôt d’une carte d’identité. Par la suite, je ferai plus simple. Je dépose un billet de 20$ sur le comptoir, signalant que j’en aurai sans doute pour moins. Quand je raccroche la pompe, je repasse chercher ma monnaie. Ce ne sont que des détails techniques et cela ne fait pas rêver mais cela fait partie de la réalité du voyage. Ce sont des points que l’on ne soulève pas dans les récits de voyages que j’ai pu lire. Parfois on se demande si les gens mangent ou dorment. Peut-être aussi parce que sur place c’est plus facile qu’on le pense alors au moment de raconter, on passe sur le quotidien.
Encore un peu de réalité, le Safeway ouvre à 6h. Pratique pour s’approvisionner en produits frais pour la route. Et elle est longue la route mais elle est magnifique, je quitte Grand Junction avec en face de moi, les montagnes du Colorado Monument. Je réalise que je ne suis plus en train de regarder des photos sur Internet ou dans un livre mais que je suis enfin dans le paysage. J’y suis, je suis sur les routes du Colorado. L’aventure commence.
La première aire de repos est plutôt rudimentaire, pas d’eau, des toilettes qui me font penser à celles qu’utilisaient des cousins en Bretagne au fond de leur jardin. Curieusement, bien qu’au milieu de nulle part, il y a du papier toilette.
La seconde aire de repos, située dans une région un peu moins désertique est une ancienne gare de triage et bien qu’il ne soit que 11h je décide de prendre mon repas car l’endroit est plutôt agréable et je ne sais pas ce que je vais trouver ensuite.
Les animaux domestiques ont leur endroit réservé.
Je règle le GPS sur Temple Square qui est la place autour de laquelle sont disposés les bâtiments des adeptes de l’église de Jésus-Christ des Saints des Derniers Jours connus sous le nom de Mormons. Je trouve un parking pour le prix de 2$ de l’heure avec les deux premières heures gratuites, un prix assez surprenant pour une grande ville comme Salt Lake City.
Le Temple en lui-même ne se visite pas, l’entrée est interdite aux non-mormons. Juste à côté se trouve le Tabernacle, immense salle de réunion avec un orgue possédant plus de 10 000 tuyaux.
Les fidèles sont très présents, très aimables, s’émerveillant tous de la même manière quand répondez que vous venez de France. Après la visite du musée historique, je tombe sur un groupe de français qui commence une visite en français guidée par des fidèles qui répondent à toutes les questions sur leur foi, l’organisation de leur église, la polygamie, etc.
Si vous voulez visitez Beehive House, la demeure de Brigham Young le fondateur de la ville de Salt Lake City, les fidèles vont vous trouver un guide parlant français rien que pour vous. Je n’attends pas plus de 15 minutes avant de voir arriver un adepte parlant la langue de Molière qui très aimablement, me fait visiter la demeure sans trop d’insistance sur la religion contrairement à ce que j’avais craint. Au moment de se quitter je me vois offrir le « livre des Mormons » en français ainsi que la proposition de donner mes coordonnées. Mon refus sera respecté. J’apprécie l’absence de prosélytisme insistant.
Il me faut encore une heure pour rejoindre l’hôtel plus au nord. Le Wal-Mart à proximité me fournit mon repas du soir.
Hi Claude
"Heureusement que j’avais prévu une prise USB à brancher sur l’allume-cigare car en branchant mon GPS sur la prise prévue sur la voiture, celui-ci se bloque en mode connexion ordinateur rendant l’accès aux cartes impossible"Veux-tu dire par là que l'on ne peut pas brancher l'alimentation du GPS sur la prise allume-cigare ? Ou est-ce que tu as voulu brancher ton GPS sur la prise USB ?
Bern
USA 2018 - Arizona, chez les indiens... https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=9061068;#9061068
USA 2014 – Là où vous n'aviez pas pensé aller https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=6769327;#6769327
USA 2012 "Au long du Rio Grande" https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=5290732;#5290732
J'ai voulu brancher mon GPS sur la prise spéciale USB. Mon GPS est assez ancien et je n'ai plus le câble qui se branche directement sur l'allume-cigare. Il me faut donc une prise USB. Mais celle des voitures ne convient pas car elle est destinée à la connexion d'une clé USB ou d'un smartphone pour la musique en général.
Il faut en effet se brancher sur l'allume-cigare. J'étais trop content de pouvoir récupérer celui-ci pour charger la batterie d'un autre appareil, du coup je n'ai pas trop réfléchi et je me suis fait un moment de frayeur.
Dans ma situation, je dois utiliser une prise qui se branche sur l'allume-cigare et qui a un connecteur USB qui me permet d'alimenter mon GPS.
J'espère ne pas être trop confus.
Tu me rassures, car en disant "prise USB à brancher sur l'allume cigare", crains qu'il y avait des changement sur les voitures depuis mon denier voyage. Pas de problème donc pour mon vieux GPS, j'ai toujours la prise allume-cigare.
Aller, on attend la suite
Bern
USA 2018 - Arizona, chez les indiens... https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=9061068;#9061068
USA 2014 – Là où vous n'aviez pas pensé aller https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=6769327;#6769327
USA 2012 "Au long du Rio Grande" https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=5290732;#5290732
Samedi 17 juin 2017
Le GPS m’annonce plus de 200km pour rejoindre Bonneville Salt Flats soit quatre heures aller-retour au moins. Il faut se mettre dans la tête qu’aux US le « pas loin » n’a pas le même sens qu’en France. Cela me rappelle des amis canadiens de mes parents qui voulaient aller voir un concert à Marseille ce qui paraissait inconcevable pour des parisiens mais parfaitement envisageable pour des Canadiens.
Salt flats est l’endroit où des records de vitesse ont été successivement battus. C’est une étendue de sel sur 260 km². Une vitesse de plus de 1000 km/h a été enregistrée en 1970.
Un peu plus loin, une route mène à un accès pour les véhicules particuliers. J’y croise un groupe de motards qui tient un meeting au milieu de cette mer de sel et quelques rares voitures qui reviennent en roulant sur un passage qui a été spécialement aménagé pour les amateurs de routes salées.
Ici aussi nos amis à 4 pattes ont leur lieu réservé.
Au retour, je visite Antelope Island State Park, une ile raccrochée à la terre par une longue digue-route. Le peu de temps que j’ai, me fait visiter rapidement ce lieu et j’oriente mes roues vers Garr Ranch. On y visite un ancien ranch plutôt bien équipé pour l’époque.
Avant de quitter la presqu'ile, j’aperçois mon premier bison.
Dimanche 18 juin 2017
Contrairement à la nuit précédente, j’ai mal dormi et j’ai dû mettre des bouchons d’oreilles à cause du bruit incessant d’un moteur en rotation. Le matin, à la réception, on m’explique que c’est peut-être le client de la chambre d’à côté qui a utilisé un ventilateur dont les vibrations sont passées par les aérations. Explication peu compréhensible dans des chambres munies de la clim.
Mal dormir quand on a encore 4 heures de route, ce n’est pas optimum. Heureusement, c’est une route de montagne moins monotone que la veille et le parcours me semble moins long.
Ayant profité d’une aire de repos pour manger, je file directement au Visitor Center pour prendre des conseils sur les randonnées possibles. Je choisis d’aller voir Hidden Falls. Sur le chemin, un randonneur signale qu’en faisant un léger détour on peut observer des mooses (élans) sur les bords d’un étang. Deux mooses se nourrissent d’herbes aquatiques.
La distance annoncée pour atteindre la chute d’eau est de 1,5 mi. Ce doit être une distance calculée à plat sur une carte qui ne tient pas compte des nombreuses montées et descentes. Après plus de temps que prévu, j’arrive devant cette chute d’eau cachée.
Sur le retour, je croise une marmotte.
Le GPS est une merveilleuse invention et quand vous n’avez pratiquement aucune connaissance de la région où vous êtes, vous devez lui faire confiance. C’est ainsi que je rejoins l’hôtel par une route complètement défoncée.
L’hôtel mérite une rénovation mais c’est un studio qui m’attend avec cuisine équipée et un balcon.
Je pose mes valises et pars pour une visite de Jackson Hole. Pas de Wal-Mart ici. Ayant un four à micro-ondes dans la chambre, j’achète un hamburger dans la boutique d’une station-service. Heureusement que je ne suis pas venu aux US pour sa gastronomie.
Je découvre le carrefour à 4 stops. C’est le premier arrivé qui repart en premier. Et si personne ne bouge, c’est doute parce que c’est à vous de passer. Il faut penser à repérer l’ordre d’arrivée.
Lundi 19 juin 2017
Levé à 6h20. Prélèvement de deux muffins pour la route.
Départ 8h. J’arrive à West Thumb vers 11h30. Enfin j’y suis, le but de mon voyage commence à cet instant. Je ne suis pas déçu. Les couleurs sont magnifiques, comme celle que j’ai vu en préparant ce voyage mais aujourd’hui je suis dans le décor, avec, en plus, la chaleur et les odeurs de souffre dégagées par les sources.
En quittant West Thumb, je rencontre un elk qui traverse la route.
J’arrive au Visitor Center de Old Faithfull vers 13h30. Le Geyser Old Faithfull est l’un des geysers le plus régulier et son irruption est assez impressionnante. En attendant son jaillissement je fais le tour de Geyser Hill.
Puis vient l’heure du spectacle.
Merveilleux.
Avant de quitter les lieux, je rentre visiter Old Faithfull Inn qui présente une architecture en bois remarquable avec tout en haut un endroit qui accueillait des orchestres jusqu’à ce qu’un tremblement de terre un peu plus fort qu’habituellement ne fragilise cette partie.
Dans les magasins à proximité, je découvre toute une collection de bières locales pour moins de 2$ et tout à fait agréables à boire.
Sur le chemin de l’hôtel, je prends le temps d’admirer les geysers et les fontaines de Black Sand Basin.
Cela glougloute, jaillit, fume de tous les côtés et le festival des couleurs est toujours présent.
Les photos ne suffisent pas à rendre atmosphère féérique du lieu.
P… que c’est beau.
Toute cette eau brulante se déverse dans une rivière. Tout laisserait à penser que l’eau de ce cours d’eau est chaude. Il n’en est rien, l’eau est fraiche et quelques pécheurs, les pieds dans l’eau tentent de ne pas rentrer bredouilles.
J'ai du mal à quitter l'endroit tellement je suis ébahi par sa beauté, par ses couleurs surréalistes. Je refais un tour pour m'en remplir les yeux.
Finalement, je reprends la voiture et me dirige vers le nord.
La route de Norris qui mène à l’hôtel est en reconstruction et en circulation alternée. Une déviation est proposée mais c’est 50 mi au lieu de 21. Le choix est vite fait. Je patiente 30 min et emprunte 5 mi de chemin de terre avant de retrouver l’asphalte et atteindre Mammoth Hot Springs et la « cabin » qui m’a été réservée. C’est presque luxueux sauf qu’il n’y a pas de téléphone, ni TV et pas de Wifi. Les elks (Wapiti) qui se promènent au milieu des habitations rappellent que la priorité est donnée à la nature.
Pour les repas, c’est assez restreint. Le choix m’est laissé entre un Dinner et un fast food. Les kilomètres absorbés me font renoncer à rejoindre la ville de Gardiner à 5 kms, ce sera hamburger et fontaine à soda.
Une rénovation des hébergements est en cours. Les cabines ont dû faire partie d'une première tranche.
Au début, j'ai cru que l'endroit était infesté de rats mais à regarder plus près ce sont probablement des ground squirrels.
Mardi 20 juin 2017
Levé 6h. Bien que confortable, l’hébergement dans les « cabin » est réduit au coucher, pas de média moderne mais pas de petit-déjeuner non plus. Je suis donc ravi de manger les deux muffins. Je prends pour 10$ d'essence. Je reprends la même route en construction et passage alterné qu'hier, il est un peu plus de 7h j'attends donc peu de temps pour passer. Arrêt à Norris basin. Je fais le tour de Back Basin puis celui de Porcelain Basin. Norris n’est pas l’endroit le plus spectaculaire, c’est plutôt un paysage lunaire avec de petits geysers et des fumeroles tout autour.
Je suis peut-être arrivé trop tôt pour admirer les couleurs d’Emerald Spring. La différence de température entre l’air et la source brûlante dégage un important nuage de vapeurs qui cache la surface.
Artist’s Point est moins impressionnant. Mon attention a été attirée par le Blood Geyser.
Court arrêt pour le Gibbons Falls.
Comme souvent, la route entre deux points peut être plus longue que prévue. Des bisons, on en voit un peu partout mais cette fois-ci on peut voir la jeune génération. Un arrêt s’impose.
Je suis déçu par le Grand Prismatic de Midway Geyser Basin. On a l’habitude de le voir vu de haut où il est magnifique. Même si l’échantillon de couleur est grandiose, il perd de sa splendeur quand on se place à sa hauteur. J’avais repéré dans un guide une route qui devait me permettre de prendre de la hauteur. Malheureusement, la route en question est en travaux et l’accès est même interdit aux randonneurs. Tant pis. Il me restera les sensations, cette chaleur qui nous enveloppe comme dans un sauna lorsque le vent nous fait traverser l’espace d’un instant les sapeurs sulfureuses.
Me voilà de retour au visitor center de l’Old Faithfull. J’assiste à un exposé fait par un Ranger devant des enfants accompagnés de leurs parents. Il explique les précautions à prendre pour observer les animaux sauvages, les distances à respecter, l’interdiction de les nourrir, le comportement à adopter lors de la rencontre avec un ours. Je m’aperçois que je comprends assez bien ce qu’il dit même si les blagues me restent inaccessibles et cela m’encourage à tenter de suivre une visite guidée et je rejoins un groupe sur le départ.
Le Ranger parle lentement et assez clairement pour moi. Il nous explique que les couleurs des pools proviennent de bactéries thermophiles qui vivent à des températures de 75°C. Plus loin, il nous montre un arbre et nous apprends que toute la sève a été remplacée par de la silice.
Mais le ciel s’obscurcit. Le Ranger reçoit un appel lui demandant d’interrompre la visite. Un orage s’annonce et comme nous sommes à plus de 2 000 m les éclairs peuvent être très dangeureux. Il conseille aux personnes qu’il croise de se mettre à l’abri. Dix minutes plus tard se sont des trombes d’eaux qui s’abattent sur le visitor center et les éclairs sont plutôt impressionants. L’orage sera de courte durée mais la visite ne reprendra pas. Je finirai le cicuit seul et sans explications.
En remontant vers Mammoth où se trouve mon hôtel, je suis bloqué un court instant par un troupeau de bisons. Sur la route, dans l’autre sens je croise une longue file de voitures, une très longue file de voitures. Le lendemain, j’entendrai dire que l’embouteillage aura duré 4 heures. J’apprécie encore plus d’avoir été dans le bon sens.
J’arrive assez tard et le seul établissement ouvert est le Dinner. C’est un restaurant quelque peu luxueux. Un employé me place à une table et m’annonce le nom de la serveuse qui s’occupera de moi. Je suis un peu mal à l’aise car je n’avais le projet de faire un repas gastronomique d’autant plus que la gastronomie américaine n’est pas encensée dans les guides.
A peine assis , un verre d’eau fraiche arrive sur la table. La serveuse se présente, me demande si je me contente de mon verre d’eau ou si je veux boire autre chose et me remet la carte. J’y trouve un hamburger au bison et sors mon dictionnaire pour comprendre le vocabulaire qui entoure la description de ce plat.
J’apprends que j’ai le droit à deux « fixings ». Sans le dico, j’aurais eu quelques difficultés à comprendre que cela désigne un accompagnement mais ce que ne me dit pas le dictionnaire c’est qu’il s’agit, du moins ici, d’un accompagnement du type rondelle de tomate ou poivron, le choix entre riz ou French Fries se fait ensuite. Le dico m’apprend aussi que le « sweet pepper » n’est pas un « poivre doux » mais un poivron.
L’addition parvient finalement sur ma table. Je dépose un billet de 20$ incluant le pourboire et je réponds par la négative à la serveuse qui me demande si je veux ma monnaie.
Mercredi 21 juin 2017
Départ vers 7h, toujours pas de petit-déjeuner. Arrêts pour voir l’arbre pétrifié, le belvédère de Calcit Spring, et Tower Falls où se trouve une boutique dans laquelle j’achète un paquet de gâteaux aux figues qui m’aidera à tenir jusqu’au prochain repas.
Sur la rive nord du Yellowstone, plusieurs chemins ont été aménagés pour contempler la beauté du site sous différents angles et c’est la première fois que je peux voir une chute d’eau aussi importante d’aussi près. Une splendeur.
Il fait une chaleur accablante. Je remonte au visitor center de Canyon Village pour engloutir une des salades proposées accompagnée d’une bière locale.
Sur la rive sud, un sentier nommé Uncle Tom’s Trail est décrit dans les guides comme un long escalier de 300 marches. Lorsque je me présente, l’accès au parking est fermé à cause de travaux. Je rejoins le parking suivant après une longue file d’attente. Nous sommes au mois de juin qui est censé ne pas être trop surchargé. Je n’ose imaginer le monde aux mois de juillet et août. Sur ce parking, je découvre qu’il y a un autre accès au sentier nommé plus haut. Le chemin est long, l’escalier est long mais la vue est magnifique.Et ici encore, les photos ne donnent qu'un maigre aperçu de la réalité. Il y manque la profondeur, le gigantisme.
Bien sûr, il faut remonter et c’est haut. J’apprécie les bancs que l’on trouve çà et là à certains paliers.
Si j’avais prévu un séjour plus long, je serais remonté à l’hôtel mais je n’ai que 4 jours et je veux voir le maximum. Je me dirige vers Sulphur Caldron et Mud Volcano qui sont côte-à-côte. Ce qui distingue le premier du second ce sont les odeurs de souffre. Dans les divers commentaires que j’ai pu entendre ou lire, il est souvent dit que Yellowstone est un lieu vivant que vous n’êtes pas sûr, si vous revenez l’année d’après, de voir le même paysage. J’avais vu des photos de Mud Volcano et ce que je vois devant moi est en effet complètement différent. A tel point que le mot « Mud » me semble moins bien adapté que je le pensais.
Fishing Bridge est proche. Je décide de continuer mon périple et de m’y rendre mais je tombe sur un embouteillage et je fais demi-tour. Bien m’en prend, sur la route, comme souvent, de nombreux véhicules sont arrêtés. Rapidement les gens présents indiquent la direction où l’on peut voir un loup qui se promène.
Je remonte jusqu’à Tower Falls pour acheter un paquet de gâteaux pour mon petit-déjeuner de demain matin. Je pensais mettre une vingtaine de minutes pour rentrer mais c’était sans compter les arrêts pour voir les ours. Le premier est sur le bord de la route, très près des gens qui descendent de voiture pour le prendre en photo nécessitant l’intervention d’un ranger qui fait remonter tout le monde dans sa voiture et interdit que l’on s’arrête même un court instant pour immortaliser l’évènement. Plus loin, c’est un jeune ours qui se promène à flanc de colline laissant craindre l’arrivée de la mère.
C’est un Wapiti ou Elk qui provoque l’arrêt suivant.
Et comme si la journée n’était pas assez remplie, un couple d’ours monopolise l’attention des visiteurs du parc. Je commence à réellement regretter de ne pas avoir emporté mes jumelles et d’être un peu juste au niveau appareil photo.
Je craignais de passer un séjour sans voir un ours. Là, je me trouve gâté pour cette journée même si je regrette de les voir si loin.
Une fois rentré, je vais manger mon cheeseburger et me plante sous le porche du visitor center pour profiter de la connexion wifi qu’il propose. Généralement, quand je discute avec quelqu’un, il s’aperçoit rapidement que l’anglais n’est pas ma langue maternelle et certains me demandent d’où je viens mais n’en ont pas la moindre idée avant que je les renseigne. C’est pourquoi je suis assez surpris quand une Taiwanaise, qui cherche aussi une connexion wifi, me demande si je suis français. Elle reconnait mon accent parce qu’elle a vécu 4 ans à Paris. Je constaterai à la suite de mes différentes rencontres que ceux qui me demandent si je suis bien français, ont soit voyagé en France soit ont de la famille en France ou tout au moins en Europe.
Jeudi 22 juin 2017
Levé 6h10. C’est aujourd’hui que je vais découvrir Lamar Valley où j’espère rencontrer encore la vie sauvage et dans cette optique, il faut se lever de bonne heure. J’ai peut-être même un peu trop trainé au lit. Comme d’habitude, c’est un lot de voitures plus ou moins bien garées qui indique la présence d’un animal. A peine arrivé on m'explique que tôt dans la matinée deux elks ont été attaqués par deux loups et maintenant ce sont deux coyotes s’occupent des carcasses et qu’ils sont encore dans les parages, d’ailleurs, sur un rocher, j'en aperçois un que je peux prendre en photo. Ceux qui ont de meilleurs objectifs ont des résultats plus intéressants. Je demande à l’homme qui m'a renseigné si on peut voir les carcasses, il m’apprend que les coyotes ont déplacé les corps. Il explique ensuite qu’il n'a pas vu la tuerie mais en a été averti et a pu voir le dépeçage.
Plus loin, en face d’une paroi rocheuse, un groupe équipé de jumelles et longues vues sur pieds observent des chèvres perchées à flanc de montagne. A l’œil nu, il est très difficile de voir quoi que ce soit, même avec mon zoom je ne vois rien. On m’invite à emprunter une des longues-vues mises à disposition et là je les aperçois en très petit.
Je poursuis jusqu’à la sortie du parc et fais demi-tour. Le retour ne se fait pas d’une traite, je m’arrête pour filmer un elk qui traverse la route et je suis bloqué par un Ranger qui gère l’approche, par un ours, d’une aire de piquenique.
En arrivant à Gardiner, je tombe sur la porte monumentale que j’ai vue sur de nombreuses photos.
Gardiner est coupée en deux villes par deux rivières. Constituée essentiellement par une rue principale où restaurants, pompes à essence, commerces et activités de rafting s’étalent de chaque côtés. Le restaurant que j’avais repéré est fermé, ce sera cheeseburger à Mammoth. Passage au Visitor Center pour avoir un plan du site que je rejoins à pieds.
Comme je l’ai dit plus haut, Yellowstone est en perpétuel changement. C’est peut-être plus visible ici où l’écoulement dépose des sédiments tout au long de l’année.
Le soir, je rejoins une conférence sur les pierres de Yellowstone, donnée par un Ranger à l’amphithéâtre d’un camping. Je n’avais pas imaginé que l’amphithéâtre était en extérieur. Il est constitué de bancs placé devant un écran. Heureusement, j’ai dans la voiture de quoi me couvrir et je revêts tout ce que j’ai. Il fait si chaud le jour que j’ai presque oublié que nous sommes à plus de 2000 m et que la température descend souvent sous les 5°C le soir.
J’ai du mal à comprendre même avec le soutien des diapos. Mais je comprends suffisamment pour m’apercevoir que le Ranger qui a pris son poste le mois dernier n’est pas au point. J’apprends quand même qu’ils recensent environ 3000 tremblements de terre par an et que le pan de montagne effondré que l’on voit sur la photo sur l’écran résulte d’un séisme de la semaine précédente. Vue son impréparation, la conférence se termine plus tôt que prévu, ce qui est un bien car mes dents commencent à s’entrechoquer fortement.
j'attends avec impatience la suite normalement dans quelques jours nous avons un parcours similaire. belles photos peut être un zoom pour pouvoir photographier les animaux.
Merci encore pour le récit et photos
kilomètre
Bonjour Catherine
Vous n'allez certainement pas regretter votre voyage.
J'ai un appareil photo trop simple bien que muni d'un zoom, celui-ci est insuffisant pour prendre en photo la vie sauvage. J'enviais les touristes à côté de moi avec des zooms long comme un avant-bras.
J'ai aussi regretté de ne pas avoir emporté mes jumelles.
Je vais tenté d'accélérer la publication mais le téléchargement des photos prend du temps à cause d'un connexion peu performante et ce weekend va être très occupé.
Claude
Vendredi 23 juin 2017
Départ 7h10. Aujourd'hui je quitte Yellowstone. A regret, J'ai l'impression d'avoir tout fait en vitesse il m'aurait fallu au moins un jour de plus rien que pour voir la partie géologique mais un peu plus encore pour me donner une chance supplémentaire d’observer la faune.
Je vais rejoindre la ville de Cody qui est à environ 200km, une petite étape pour les États-Unis. Arrêt à Tower Falls pour faire le plein d'eau. Afin d’encourager les gens à réutiliser leur bouteilles en plastiques, les visitor centers proposent des lieux de remplissage.
Comme d’habitude, il est difficile de faire le chemin qui traverse Yellowstone d’une seule traite. Je ne peux pas résister à stopper pour filmer un loup qui se promène au milieu d’un pré et ensuite pour photographier ce paysage surprenant de forêt calcinée. Ici, rien n’est fait à la place de la nature. Les arbres ne sont pas évacués ni replantés.
Je quitte finalement Yellowstone et retrouve ses longues routes. Je vois coup sur coup deux conducteurs arrêtés par un véhicule de police. Me revient alors en souvenir ces histoires de conducteurs, qui se pensant à l’abri car au milieu de nulle part, se permettaient un excès de vitesse et voyaient soudain une voiture de police tous feux clignotants leur intimer l’ordre de se ranger sur le bas-côté, se demandant d’où pouvait bien sortir ce représentant de la loi. Ces deux arrestations accréditeraient ces anecdotes et l’idée qu’aux Etats-Unis les limitations de vitesse étaient respectées. (Ce qui serait plutôt vrai en ville). Mais à voir le nombre de voitures qui me doublent en dépassant largement la vitesse autorisée, je commence à douter fortement de la véracité de ces rumeurs ou alors les temps ont bien changés ou ces voyageurs n’ont pas eu de chance.
Tout à mes réflexions, j’arrive au barrage de Buffalo Bill juste avant Cody.
C’est un barrage. Par contre, on peut acheter des billets pour le rodéo journalier de Cody avec en prime d’aimables conseils pour aller s’assoir aux meilleures places.
A l’entrée de Cody, un village a été reconstitué avec de maison en rondins démontées puis remontées ici. Les propriétaires des maisons sont connus et leur nom est affiché sur chaque maison.
Cet endroit, c’est Old Trail Town.
On y trouve un petit musée avec des objets et vêtements d’époque et une collection de carrioles.
Au fond, on visite un petit cimetière avec des tombes accompagnées d’un panneau décrivant la vie de leur occupant.
Un peu plus loin, à l’écart, la tombe de Bill Cody plus connu sous le nom de Buffalo Bill. Il n’est pas seulement un tueur de bisons et un organisateur de spectacles mais aussi un entrepreneur qui a grandement contribué au développement de la région.
La route qui traverse Cody est constituée de 2 fois 2 voies plus une voie au milieu, délimitée par deux lignes jaunes continues, qui sert à tourner à gauche aux intersections. Apparemment les lignes jaunes même continues n’ont pas le même statut qu’en France.
Tout est organisé le long de cette route principale et c’est un peu plus loin sur la gauche que je découvre le musée Buffalo Bill Center of the West. Comme au musée précédent je bénéficie du tarif sénior sans rien demander et sans présenter de justificatif. Le musée est une réunion des 5 musées. Le Buffalo Bill Museum où l’on découvre que la vie de Buffalo Bill est plus riche et diversifiée que ce que l’on croit habituellement. The Plains Indian Muséum où on peut admirer de nombreux objets et quelques habitats. Une partie porte sur le traitement infligé aux indiens pour les « assimiler ».
The Draper Museum of Natural History qui présente le parc de Yellowstone. Les amateurs de winchester, colt et autres armes seront ravis de visiter le Cody Firearms Museum.
Une collection d’œuvres relatives au Grand Ouest est accrochée dans le Whitney Gallery of Western Art. La visite du musée prend moins de temps que prévu et après avoir jeté un œil à la maison de naissance de Buffalo Bill qui a été reconstruite dans un coin du musée, je fonce en centre-ville pour faire quelques courses.
Vers 18h, devant l’hôtel Irma qui a été construit par Buffalo Bill, un décor sur roulettes a été installé. Après l’hymne américain, commence une gunfight qui finit par la victoire du sheriff.
J’avale ma salade Wal-Mart à l’hôtel et me précipite au Cody Nite Rodeo. Je me dépêche de rejoindre le lieu nommé « rooster » pensant que les places vont être prises d’assaut mais même si c’est l’endroit où les spectateurs se pressent, il y a de nombreuses places libres.
Le spectacle commence par une prière et une nouvelle fois l’hymne national.
Un clown est chargé de l’animation comique du spectacle.
De mon emplacement je peux voir la préparation des chevaux ou des taureaux. Ils arrivent dans un sas qui empêche tout mouvement. Là ils sont sanglés et le cavalier peut se positionner sur l’animal avant l’ouverture de la porte. Certains cavaliers sont éjectés dans les deux secondes qui suivent quand d’autres tiennent en selle plus de huit secondes et sont récupérés par deux cavaliers qui se placent de chaque côtés de cheval sauvage.
Certains compétiteurs sont éjectés violemment, les plus jeunes très rapidement. Ceux-ci sont équipés d’un gilet renforcé et d’un casque. Malgré cela quelques-uns ont du mal à se remettre de la chute.
D’autres épreuves, chronométrées, consistent à attraper au lasso un veau puis une fois descendu du cheval, à le retourner et lui ligoter les pattes. Le cheval, lui aussi, est actif à sa manière. Il maintient la corde tendue.
Les femmes concourent pour la même épreuve mais se contente d’attraper le veau au lasso sans le retourner.
Ils sont deux pour capturer une vache au lasso. L’un passe le lasso au cou et l’autre à une patte arrière. Je n'ai pas de photo de cette épreuve.
Suivent des épreuves de vitesses autour de tonneaux. Celles-ci sont aussi ouvertes aux femmes et aux enfants. Ici aussi, la qualité de mon appareil photo fait défaut.
Samedi 24 juin 2017
Levé 5h20. Copieux petit déjeuner. Je dépose un billet de 10 $ à la station-service et revient chercher ma monnaie à la caisse après avoir fait le plein. Achat d’une barquette de Coleslaw et de glace au Wal-Mart qui se trouve lui aussi sur la route principale. La route est longue et monotone. Ce sont 555 km qui sont prévus et le GPS m’annonce des tronçons de 120 à 140 km. A Buffalo, ce dernier m’indique une route qui ne me plait pas. Comme il n’y a pas mieux que les habitants de la région pour indiquer le plus court chemin, je m’arrête dans un hôtel pour demander ma route. Mon intuition était bonne. Le GPS privilégiait la highway mais rallongeait un peu la route en me faisant remonter vers le nord.
L’accumulation de la fatigue, une mauvaise nuit, une route peut passionnante me font apprécier l’arrêt à Devil Tower. C’est un énorme bloc de pierre volcanique de 264 m de haut bien connu des amateurs de Spielberg qui y tourna « Rencontre du troisième type ».
C’est un lieu sacré pour les indiens qui pratiquent leur culte en attachant des morceaux de tissus dans les arbres. Un chemin en fait le tour. Sur autorisation, des groupes se lancent dans l’escalade du rocher.
J’avale rapidement ma barquette de coleslaw et la pomme prélevée ce matin avant d’aller observer les chiens de prairie.
Encore 100 km avant d’arriver à Spearfish. Visite de la ville où il n'y a rien, passage par le Wal-Mart pour la nourriture constituée ce soir d'une grosse chiffonnade de jambon, du reste de coleslaw, d'une barquette de myrtilles et d'un apple pie.
Juste un petit rectificatif : la tombe que tu as photographiée à Cody est celle du petit fils de Buffalo Bill - les dates indiquées ne correspondaient pas et je viens de vérifier.
Buffalo Bill est mort en 1917 et il est enterré à Golden, près de Denver (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buffalo_Bill).
Il avait certes contribué à la création de Cody et y possédait un ranch et d'autres propriétés, mais au final il n'y résidait qu'épisodiquement.
Ca devait etre un super voyage. Yellowstone est vraiment un bel endroit, mais aussi un endroit très spécial avec ses volcan et sa célèbre faille. Les photos sont très jolies.
Hi,
L'intitulé "express" est bien adapté dans ce cas là, je n'ai effectivement pas pris le temps de lire attentivement les inscriptions de la tombe, ni même les explications de mon guide qui fait bien référence au petit fils de Buffalo Bill.
Quant à l'action de Buffalo Bill sur la ville de Cody, je me base uniquement sur ce qui en est dit au musée.
Etant amené à beaucoup se déplacer avec son spectacle, il est vraisemblable qu'il en était souvent absent.
Merci pour la rectification.
Claude
bonjour
j'attends la suite avec impatience
c'est la partie du parcours que je ne sais pas trop faire mon choix pour rejoindre buffalo la 14 me tente pour les superbes paysages mais plus de kilomètres
Bonjour Cat
C'est la question que je me suis posée en préparant mon voyage et même une fois sur place.
Dans une première version, je comptais faire une escale à Sheridan et passer par la 14 suite à la lecture d'autres récits de voyage. Comme je suis passé par TUI, je n'ai pas choisi toutes les étapes.
Le fait que mon étape suivante se situait dans la ville de Spearfish qui nécessitait 5h30 de route m'a fait choisir de passer par la 16.
Ma décision était aussi conditionnée par le fait que j'étais seul à conduire et que je redoutais la fatigue.
Si j'avais gardé l'étape à Sheridan voire Buffalo j'aurais sans doute choisi de passer par la 14.
Si je devais refaire le même trajet, je rajouterais des étapes pour raccourcir les distances journalières et prendre plus de temps dans les lieux à visiter quitte à passer la nuit dans des villes sans grand intérêt.
Levé 5h30. Petit déjeuner simple. Départ 7h. Arrêt à Deadwood mais tout est fermé. Je ne prendrais donc pas la photo de la chaise sur laquelle Wild Bill Hickok a été assassiné. La ville a gardé des rues comme on peut les voir dans les westerns. C’est là que la série TV du même nom a été tournée.
Du coup, je ne reste pas longtemps et j’arrive de bonne heure à Mount Rushmore National Memorial. C’est assez impressionnant. Les gros plans montrent une certaine finesse de la sculpture. Finesse plutôt surprenante quand on apprend que 90% a été sculpté à la dynamite.
Je suis une visite guidée par un Ranger qui explique le choix des 4 présidents. C’est un peu pour tester mon niveau de compréhension en anglais que je rejoins ce groupe. Le début est plutôt encourageant mais je perds pieds assez rapidement. En bref, le sculpteur Gutzon Borglum a choisi les présidents qui ont préservé la république et étendu le territoire.
Je finis le parcours en passant par un hall qui présente la maquette du projet d'origine.
J’achète une partie de mes cadeaux souvenirs et mange un ragoût de bison accompagné d’une bière locale.
J’ai l’après-midi pour visiter autre chose. Je tape « Badlands » sur mon GPS qui m’annonce 138 km. En France j’aurais renoncé mais ici il est difficile de ne pas avaler des kilomètres et je n’ai pas traversé l’Atlantique pour rien. En route pour Badlands. Après Colorado National Monument et Yellowstone, Badlands paraissent un peu fade.
Pour éviter les longues étapes, certains ont un moyen de transport original.
Au retour c’est encore 100 km sur une route qui semble ne pas finir. Régulièrement, je vois sur le bord de la route des groupes de boîtes à lettres à l’entrée d’un chemin qui mène à des maisons invisibles. Difficile d’imaginer que l’on puisse vivre, ici, au milieu d’une zone quasi désertique.
Arrivé à l’hôtel, je m’aperçois que nous sommes dimanche et que je n’ai rien acheté à manger. Avant de me résoudre à trouver un restaurant, je fais une recherche sur les commerces de Rapid City et je suis surpris de voir que non seulement le Wal-Mart est ouvert le dimanche soir mais qu’il est ouvert 24 h sur 24 et 7 jours sur 7.
Simple coïncidence certainement mais cet hôtel dans la ville de Rapid City propose une connexion Très Haut Débit. J’en profite pour télécharger mes photos sur mon serveur. Cette rapidité est un réel confort.
Levé 5h30. Petit-déjeuner continental où je m'essaie aux gaufres. Départ vers 7h10. Achat d'essence. Passage par Mount Rushmore pour compléter mes cadeaux suite aux demandes liées à mes messages d’hier soir. Dans la boutique du Mémorial, on trouve un choix d’articles fabriqués par les indiens qui sont certifiés originaux.
Plutôt que de suivre les panneaux indicateurs, il me vient la mauvaise idée de suivre les indications du GPS qui me guide effectivement vers Custer State Park mais je ne sais pas exactement par quelle entrée j’y accède. Autre mauvaise surprise, le prix d’entrée du parc a augmenté de 5$ par rapport au guide. (Custer est un State Park et la carte que j’ai achetée pour 80$ ne fonctionne que pour les National Monuments). Comme j’avais éliminé, dans un premier temps, la visite de celui-ci et que je ne suis rentré dans ce parc uniquement parce qu’il était sur ma route, je l’ai mauvaise. Le début de la visite ne me réconcilie pas avec ce parc. Ce que je vois est beau mais encore une fois un peu quelconque en comparaison avec Yellowstone et j’ai déjà vu de tels paysages sans avoir à payer. La seconde partie modifiera légèrement mon avis.
J’arrive à un visitor center où je demande mon chemin, j'apprends que je ne suis pas du tout où je croyais. La Ranger qui me renseigne, me conseille de faire une boucle en direction du sud sur la Wildlife Loop Road où je pourrais voir des troupeaux de bisons et autres animaux sauvages. J’ai bien fait de suivre son conseil, je tombe rapidement sur un troupeau d’antilopes puis sur des bisons avec leur progéniture.
Je regrette nettement moins d’être passé par ce parc.
Une nouvelle fois à un carrefour je demande à un Ranger un conseil sur la route à suivre pour quitter le parc et me diriger vers ma prochaine étape Cheyenne. Je ne sais pas ce que j’ai avec la prononciation de ce nom mais j’ai beau essayer de le prononcer comme eux, seule la carte routière permet de me faire comprendre.
Je crois que c’est la route la plus fatigante de mon voyage. La fatigue s’accumule, la route est monotone et il n’y a pas de zone de repos. Arrivé à Lusk, je n’en peux plus, je rentre dans le premier restaurant qui se présente et avale une pizza qu’ils appellent cheeseburger. Je choisis une small seize et vue l’épaisseur et la quantité de garniture, je ne vais pas avoir faim de sitôt. J’ai bien récupéré et bien que la route ne soit pas plus passionnante, je n’ai plus l’impression que je vais m’endormir. Je rejoins l’US 25 qui est limitée à 80 mph mais comme je n’ai pas pensé à reprendre de l’essence, je ne profite pas de cette possibilité et réduis ma vitesse. J’arrive à Cheyenne vers 18h. J’achète de l’essence et rejoins l’hôtel qui est en face d’une gare de triage qui s’avèrera très active la nuit et rendra mon sommeil difficile à cause aussi de l’absence de double vitrage. Je fais un rapide tour en ville, passe comme à mon habitude par le Wal-Mart local et rentre.
Mardi 27 juin 2017
Levé 5h45. Petit déjeuner continental sans originalité. Petite promenade en ville en attendant l’ouverture des boutiques et des musées. Curieusement pour les US, le musée que je veux visiter ouvre à 11h et l’outlet à 10h. Ce sont des horaires européens !
Cheyenne n’a rien de réellement transcendant sauf si vous venez fin juillet pendant les Frontier Days qui rassemblent tous les vrais cowboys et indiens de tout le pays pour participer à des parades et des rodéos. Je fais un tour dans les rues de Cheyenne pour avoir un aperçu de l'habitat commun.
Je ne suis pas un passionné des boutiques et encore moins des boutiques de vêtements mais je sais que l’on peut faire des affaires et que j’ai du temps avant l’ouverture du musée. Je dégote quand même un Levis 501 pour 41$.
A 11h, je suis devant le Cowgirls of the West Museum. C’est un petit musée qui présente des objets de la vie courante, des historiques de cowgirls et une vidéo. L’évolution de la selle amazone est expliquée et illustrée par plusieurs modèles. J’apprends que le Stetson, le fameux chapeau adopté par les cowboys, doit son succès à la présence de 5 à 20% de poils de castor qui lui donnent sa solidité et son imperméabilité. Il peut même servir de récipient pour l’eau.
Sur les conseils de mon guide préféré je vais manger un pavé de viande grillé au feu de bois accompagné d’un verre de coca cola que la serveuse vient me remplir régulièrement. (Le coca n’est pas un conseil du guide).
Je reprends la route pour Denver où j’arrive à l’hôtel vers 17h15. J’ai le même problème d’enregistrement que le premier jour vu que je suis dans le même hôtel mais la réceptionniste me reconnait et me permet de m’installer pendant qu’elle règle le problème.
On me donne une clé électronique format carte bancaire. Je rejoins la chambre que je ne peux pas ouvrir. Je retourne à l’accueil qui réinitialise la carte. Toujours impossible d’ouvrir. La femme de ménage qui nettoie la chambre voisine ouvre avec son passe pour vérifier que c’est un problème de carte et non de serrure. Retour à l’accueil où l’on repasse la carte dans l’appareil en m’affirmant que cette fois i n’y aura pas de problème. En effet, la porte s’ouvre mais la lumière dans la salle de bain est allumée. Je pense au début que c’est une femme de ménage qui est là mais la présence d’un téléphone portable et d’une valise me fait penser que la même chambre a été allouée à deux personnes différentes et pour l’indiquer à l’homme qui vient de sortir salle de bains en m’entendant appeler, je lui montre le numéro de ma chambre qui est porté sur la clé. Cet homme est américain et voit aussitôt mon erreur en m’informant que ma chambre porte le numéro 273 et non le 213. Ce sont dans des moments comme cela qu’on se sent extrêmement mal.
Pourtant, j’avais lu, qu’en remplissant un chèque ou un autre moyen de paiement il fallait faire attention au fait que le 7 s’écrit comme un 1 sans la barre.
Heureusement, le gars a beaucoup d’humour. Je rejoins la chambre 273 que j’ouvre sans problème avec la même clé. Je me demande alors si je ne suis pas en possession d’un passe. Je ne ferai pas de test.
Je ne raconterai pas où je suis allé me procurer ma salade du soir.
Hi Claude
Faut pas confondre, la carte marche pour les National Parks, National Monuments et autre National ...
mais comme tu le dis, Custer est un State park, pas un NM
En tout cas, y a quelques années, Custer était gratuit
Bern
USA 2018 - Arizona, chez les indiens... https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=9061068;#9061068
USA 2014 – Là où vous n'aviez pas pensé aller https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=6769327;#6769327
USA 2012 "Au long du Rio Grande" https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=5290732;#5290732
Mercredi 28 juin 2017
Levé 6h45. Petit déjeuner complet avec œufs brouillé, laitage, fruits au sirop, cornflakes et café.
TV et étude du parcours dans Denver. L’hôtel est vieux et mérite une bonne rénovation mais il a l’avantage d’être à moins de vingt minutes à pieds du centre-ville. Un point que j’apprécie grandement quand je regarde sur Internet le prix des parkings.
Dans le centre, une navette gratuite, elle, permet de parcourir la rue principale de la ville. Je l’emprunte pour rejoindre le Colorado State Capitol.
Entre le Capitol et le Denver City and County Building, en face, se trouve une grande place qui est plus occupée par des SDF que par des touristes.
J’ai peu de temps car je reprends l’avion dans l’après-midi, je renonce à visiter le Denver Art Museum et décide de rester plus terre à terre, je vais remonter à pieds cette avenue pour revenir à mon point de départ.
Il faut probablement passer plus de temps pour trouver un intérêt à cette ville. La présence de pianos, tout au long de cette avenue, laisse penser qu’il y a une vie animée.
Certains se mettent à danser dans la rue au son du piano.
Un Food Truck propose des sandwichs à la viande de bison, d’elk ou d’antilope. Je porte mon choix sur la viande d’elk et pour étancher ma soif, je rejoins la Falling Rock Tap House, un bar qui sert plus de 80 bières à la pression dont une bonne sélection de bières locales. Denver est une ville de brasseurs.
Difficile de faire son choix, le propriétaire m’aide en me posant quelques questions sur mes goûts et voyant que mon vocabulaire sur le monde de la bière est restreint, il me remplit le fond de deux verres pour choisir. Je teste une locale légèrement amère. Il m’invite à en boire une seconde et je jette mon dévolu sur une ambrée. A la troisième invitation je me sauve poliment. Je constate que je n’ai pas eu à présenter ma carte d’identité. Contrairement aux autres lieux, il a dû voir, lui, que j’avais plus de 21 ans.
Je retrouve ma voiture devant l’hôtel et je vais la rendre chez Alamo qui m’emmène à l’aéroport dans sa navette.
Jeudi 29 juin 2017
Le transfert à Londres se passe facilement d’autant plus que les bagages suivent. Dans l’avion entre Londres et Paris, je suis assis auprès de deux américains qui sur la fin du voyage engagent la conversation avec moi pour me dire tout le désespoir qu’ils ressentent d’avoir Trump comme président. Et comble du désespoir, à Paris, il pleut.
Bilan financier hors avion, voiture et hôtels.
J'exclus le transport car il peut varier suivant la période, la compagnie, etc...
Il en est de même pour la voiture.
Je n'ai pas de détails pour les hôtels, ayant payé un prix global qui inclus d'ailleurs les dépenses mentionnées juste au-dessus.
Alimentation essentiellement composée de salades coutant entre 5 et 8$ : 260$.
J'avais prévu un budget de 40$ par jour en me basant sur mon séjour à New-York où j'avais fréquenté plus de restaurants.
En mangeant, la plupart du temps des salades composées, j'ai gagné du temps et de l'argent.
Essence : 152$ pour environ 3000 miles soit 4800km. L’essence sans plomb, dite regular, coutait à cette époque entre 2,19 et 2,39$ le galon suivant la ville. Le galon équivaut à 3,78 litres.
Visites et musées 173$ dont 80$ d'annual pass pour les National Monuments comme Colorado National Monument, Grand Teton, Yellowstone, Devil Tower, Badlands.
Quinze jours pour faire ce merveilleux voyage est un peu court si l'on veut profiter un peu plus des lieux et diminuer la fatigue.
Certaines étapes très longues sont difficilement évitables.
En préparant mon voyage, j'ai été amené à limiter la durée de mon séjour en voyant monter son coût.
Quelques années auparavant, j'ai effectué un trajet de Phenix à Los Angeles en passant par Las Vegas et San Francisco durant 3 semaines et avec des étapes plus courtes. Je m'étais senti moins pressé. Mes moyens financiers n'étaient pas les mêmes.
Mes hôtels
Ramada Denver Midtown.
Econo Lodge Grand Junction.
Cristal Inn Hotel & Suites Brigham City.
The Inn At Jackson Hole.
Mammoth Hot Springs Frontier Cabin.
Best Western Sunset Motor Inn Cody.
Super 8 Spearfish.
Days Inn West Rapid City.
Super 8 Cheyenne.
Ramada Denver Midtown.
Hi Bern
Je connaissais la différence entre les NM et les State Parks. C'est même une raison qui me l'avait fait mettre de côté, d'autant plus que mon guide ne le classait pas dans les plus beaux parcs à voir. C'est plutôt parce que c'était sur ma route et que je ne traverse pas l'océan tous les jours.
Malgré le prix que je trouve exorbitant en comparaison avec Yellowstone, je ne regrette pas d'y être passé.
Si c'était gratuit il y a quelques années, ils se sont bien rattrapés depuis. J'espère que c'est la surveillance de la faune qui motive cela.
Claude
La 16 évite Bighorn National Forest.
La route après Cody et au long de la 16 n'a rien d'inoubliable et si vous êtes deux chauffeurs, celui qui dort ne perd pas grand chose.
Un voyage à Yellowstone c’est vraiment une super expérience et ce quelque soit l'âge des personnes qui le font, car il y en a pour tous les goûts ! La partie observation des animaux a été notre préférence de parc. On était resté 7J pleins sur Yellowstone et on n’a vraiment pas regretté. 😊
Tes photos sont sympas et me remettent dans l’ambiance du parc ! 🙂
Pour ma part c'est mon plus beau voyage. J'avais déjà été émerveillé par Bryce Canyon mais Yellowstone dépasse tout ce que j'ai vu.
Vous avez eu raison d'y passer une semaine, cela permet de profiter du site sans se presser.
Contrairement à vous, j'ai évité le camping, j'ai eu des échos sur des nuits bien fraiches même au mois d'août.
voici ce que j'avais prévu au départ
Cody Bighorn Canyon Devils Canyon overlook via alt 14
ensuite sheridan buffalo via 90
mais en lisant les commentaires et vu les photos du forum sur la route 16 avant la forêt pour rejoindre buffalo j'ai regardé pour rallonger de 50km de plus en passant après Bighorn par Worland via 310 et 16 20 et ensuite Worland buffalo via 16.
sur place selon la fatigue on prendra peut être la décision mais comme la journée risque d'être chargé ??? 😕
Je ne connais pas la ville où vous ferez étape le soir.
J'ai regardé sur google maps les différents itinéraires entre Cody et Buffalo.
Ce sont des étapes qui varient entre 4h et 4h30. Cela me semble gérable surtout s'il y a des arrêts pour visiter.
Les arrêts permettent de gérer la fatigue. A plusieurs reprises, les visites ou les repas m'ont requinqués.
Par contre, je n'ai rien vu d'extraordinaire sur la 16 et je n'ai pas été marqué par la ville de Worland dans laquelle j'ai dû passer sans m'en apercevoir. Mais j'ai peut-être raté quelque chose.
Par contre, mon problème était différent car j'allais jusqu'à Spearfish soit 555 km et 5h30 de route et seul conducteur.
La conduite est assez facile aux USA, ce sont essentiellement des lignes droites bien larges et peu chargées. Les chauffeurs peuvent alterner, une petite sieste d'une demi-heure et hop c'est reparti et les paysages ne changeant pas aussi rapidement qu'en France, on ne perd pas grand chose.
So, a new year has begun. It’s time to reconnect with the VF buddies and wish you all my best for 2026—a year I hope is obviously full of travel, since, as I just made up:
"If travel’s good, everything’s good" 😄.
To celebrate, I’m inviting you into my new "travel journal," the one from our latest trip in November 2025, a little two-week adventure.
This time, we headed to The Gambia, a tiny country tucked right in the middle of Senegal, before making our way to Casamance.
The Gambia is English-speaking, Senegal is French-speaking, but the locals? They couldn’t care less—because in this part of the world, they mostly speak Wolof, Fula, Jola, or Mandinka.
Hence the title: Senegambia 😉.
As usual, I’m sharing the live updates I sent to friends and family—super casual, of course.
I know this isn’t the kind of destination that draws crowds, but if you love adventure, laughter, and emotion, it might just be your thing 😊.
Alright, this year, we're heading back to South America!
The initial plan was to retrace the route we imagined in the summer of 2020: a trip to northern Argentina starting from Córdoba.
Unfortunately, the flight to Córdoba no longer exists, and airfares to Javier Milei’s country are both outrageously priced and involve multiple layovers.
So, I tweaked Google Flights every which way and finally found a flight within my budget—departing from Clermont-Ferrand!
Not to Argentina, though...
Our transatlantic flight will cross the snow-capped Andes, landing in Santiago, Chile, with a return from Lima!
In between, two domestic flights and a big road trip loop starting from the coastal city of Arica to explore the treasures of northern Chile.
Our mode of transport: a pseudo 4x4 that won’t take us through sand dunes or devilish tracks but will let us tackle the entire secondary network, including unpaved main roads, while still being insured.
Is the suitcase packed with all-season clothes?
Are the driver’s license and passport ready?
Bank cards and a few euros too?
Off we go for just over 3 weeks of southern wanderings!
--/--
To keep all my esteemed readers on track, here are a few maps outlining the Arica-Arica loop!
1- From Arica to San Pedro de Atacama via Pica and the Salar de Huasco
2- Around San Pedro
3- From San Pedro to Cariquima
4- From Cariquima to Putre
5 - From Putre to Arica
Gas stations in this part of Chile are located in Arica, Iquique, Pozo Almonte, Pica, Calama, and San Pedro de Atacama.
I’m sharing a little recap of this new 4-week trip to China—nothing fancy, just my experience.
We’re taking advantage of the extended visa exemption to return to China for the 4th time. I loved last summer’s trip so much that I’m a bit worried about being disappointed this year. Plus, I’ve had a few hiccups before this departure: my WeChat account got blocked, and I couldn’t recover it (luckily, Alipay still works fine); I couldn’t verify my 12306 account for weeks; Trip.com failed to book our second train; and I’ve got an injury that’ll slow me down during the trip... Ugh, I hate starting a trip with these kinds of issues. Then, oh surprise! Just before leaving, my 12306 account got verified! Super easy to use from that point on—I could book a few train tickets without fees.
We’re sticking with Free’s e-SIMs, which work great in China.
August 2–3
Anyway, on the morning of August 2nd, we took the RER to CDG. As usual, we couldn’t check in online. It’s always a bit frustrating, especially since we didn’t have any checked luggage. We flew with Air China. We arrived at the check-in counter at 9:50 AM, 2 hours and 40 minutes before the flight. The line for our check-in stretched 300 meters across the airport in both directions. What a joke!! We spent 1 hour and 45 minutes in that line just to reach the counter and get our boarding passes. By then, it was 11:35 AM, and boarding had already started at 11:20 AM. The screens showed a 25-minute walk to our gate—on the other side of the airport, of course—plus we had to go through passport control and security... Long story short, the plane didn’t leave without us 🙂 We boarded among the last passengers, and we took off at 12:30 PM. We’d flown Air China four times before, but this time, it felt *really* low-cost. The check-in chaos, the cramped seats (12 seats per row), no music by artists known outside China, mediocre food, and a boarding area at Beijing Airport with only 10 seats—worthy of Ryanair or EasyJet. And yet, the price was sky-high. Again, D.’s vacation requests were denied outside of July and August, so we’re traveling from August 2nd to 30th. We couldn’t have picked a worse time for inflated prices, and with the situation in Iran, we got hit with a 390 € fuel surcharge. I’ve never paid so much for flights—I felt like I’d bought business class, but nope, far from it!!
We landed in Beijing around 4:15 AM. It was 28°C with thick fog. We drove and drove and drove for 20 minutes, as usual in Beijing. Then we went through a first check, a second check, a third check, and waited for our connecting flight at 6:40 AM. A small Airbus A320, but way more space than in the Boeing 777 from the first flight. We landed in Kunming, Yunnan, around 10:15 AM in the rain.
We headed to the subway. You can’t pay at the machines with Alipay here either, so we set up the transport QR code directly in Alipay to scan at the subway gates. The process is a bit long the first time if you haven’t entered your info before, but once it’s done, it’s *so* much easier! We took Line 6 to the terminus for 6 yuan each.
We’d booked a hotel nearby, on the 16th floor. It’s actually studios on different floors of a huge residential building. The view’s pretty nice from here. We settled in quickly—back to those wooden beds, or rather, mattresses as hard as wood, which we *hadn’t* missed...
Then we went out for our first bowl of noodles of the trip and wandered through the shopping streets of the old town.
It was crowded, and the weather was cool—around 19–20°C. We tried a local specialty: milk skin, thick, dried, then grilled with rose jam. Yeah... we won’t be having that again. The taste and texture of the milk skin... no thanks.
We saw a lot of wild mushroom hotpot too. It’s on our list for later. We also passed through the Jinma and Biji gates, where I played with reflections in puddles. I *love* doing that 🙂
At the end of the day, we headed to a temple advertised as open 24/7 on Amap. Of course, when we got there, it was closed. We’ll go back tomorrow. That was the first of many disappointments with Amap this trip—I hadn’t had that issue on previous visits.
We were exhausted after that sleepless flight. Night was falling, and we decided to grab a quick bite without much appetite. We shared a delicious vegetable fried rice for 12 yuan—we even left half of it. The portions are *huge*.
After a couple of small purchases, we headed back at 9 PM, wiped out, after walking 17 km between the airports and these first steps in Kunming. I expected to see quite a few Western travelers here, but we didn’t spot a single one. Instead, we met lots of curious Chinese people, many of them super friendly and helpful—almost *too* eager, like when they’d run to serve us as fast as possible. It’s a bit much, but it’s great to be back!
After as many weeks as I have fingers on my right hand, we're hitting the road again, fully recovered from our pharaonic adventure. Back in France to drop off our daughters (sorry, girls!), this time it's just the two of us, ready to be welcomed by a new destination. They say it offers one of the richest cultural heritages in the world for those willing to put in the effort. It's the land of the ancient Silk Road, where we'll follow a journey steeped in history and discoveries straight out of *One Thousand and One Nights*. A former Soviet bloc region independent only since 1991, we'll be walking in the footsteps of Genghis Khan, Tamerlane, Alexander the Great, Marco Polo...
Another fun fact about this country: it's strictly forbidden to import porn on your phone. True story. The same goes for painkillers! Unless it's about sodomy—though the two don’t seem connected, that’s just how it is. Don’t ask me why! Anyway, I’m getting off track. Here’s the big question: Where do you think we’ve just landed?... To give you a hint, the locals are known for being incredibly welcoming. No sooner said than done—our first taxi driver, proud to transport French travelers, refused to let us pay for the ride. Great vibes for these two weeks ahead. So, any guesses?
Uzbekistan!!!
I hope this travel journal might interest some people, but since we were completely self-sufficient (tent, sleeping bag, pot, cooking over a wood fire…) almost every day, I don’t have many hotel addresses or great restaurant tips to share! Sorry!
We used the Maio map at 1:50,000 scale. It’s part of the Boa Vista/Sal/Maio map. Bought on Amazon, but currently unavailable as of the latest news.
The people of Maio are extremely welcoming and warm, and we were always more than well received in the villages where we pitched our tent!
We’re usually big hikers, but since Maio is a beach island (gorgeous ones, at that!), we alternated a few hours of walking in the morning with some relaxation in the afternoon: beach, reading, fishing, resting…
1 euro = 110 escudos
Day 1 (Friday) Transfers by plane: Fogo-Praia-Maio
We opted for the plane to save some time on transfers, as the boat connections between Fogo and Praia take a while, and those between Praia and Maio are almost nonexistent.
You should budget around 40-50 euros per flight per person.
There are 2 flights per week between Praia and Maio—on Tuesdays and Fridays when we were there (January 2016), but currently on Mondays and Fridays.
A bit of a delay leaving Praia, but we arrived on Maio without any problems around 4 PM.
We took an *aluguer* (shared transport, 200 escudos per person) to the center of Vila do Maio, but it’s totally doable on foot with a backpack.
Since it was already a bit late, for this first night, we dropped our bags at Big Game Maio. A standard European-style hotel run by a very nice Italian family. It’s a bit pricey for us (5500 escudos for 2 people with breakfast), but after our 2 weeks in a tent on Fogo, we were happy to find a little comfort. And the breakfast is ultra-generous, with fresh products (cured ham, fruit, cheese, bread) and top quality. The hotel restaurant offers dishes that are a clever mix of Italian and Cape Verdean cuisine. Excellent!
Little tip: We didn’t try it, but Big Game Maio offers big-game fishing trips, diving, and quad rentals.
The hotel is 2 minutes from Vila’s beautiful beach, and we went for a dip at sunset and took a stroll around town. They’re redeveloping the waterfront with pretty sidewalks and light stone walls.
Vila beach
Sunset behind Santiago
Day 2 (Saturday): rest day + fishing
After 2 weeks of hiking and since Vila is such a peaceful place where it’s nice to take your time, we decided to spend an extra day there. We took the path heading south along the coast to reach Ponta Preta beach in 20 minutes. The path isn’t very pretty because there’s quite a bit of construction going on, which prevents you from really walking along the shore. Lots of real estate agencies, especially Italian ones, have taken over the land. But Ponta Preta beach is a stunning black-sand beach where we had the whole place to ourselves. We decided to go fishing from the rocks.
At 1 PM, the sun was blazing, so we headed back to Vila and dried the fish for the following days.
At 6 PM, we went fishing again, but this time at night from the rocks at the end of Vila beach.
8:30 PM: back to shower and eat at the restaurant.
The rocks and sea at Ponta Preta
Day 3 (Sunday): from Vila do Maio to Calheta de Baixo, via Monte Batalha (path 101) Hiking time: 5h
Since there aren’t many “summits” on Maio, we decided to head to Calheta de Baixo but via Monte Batalha. We left at 8:20 AM and somehow made it to Monte Batalha by 11 AM (2h40 of hiking). But the path is really hard to find in the middle of the dry grass and acacia trees. We kind of cut through randomly, aiming for the summit. Even though it’s not very high (around 300 m), the view is amazing—you can see all of Maio at 360°!
Short 30-minute break. The descent through the “forest” of acacias is even worse for finding your way. We oriented ourselves a bit by the sun to find the road connecting Vila to Calheta. We arrived around 1:30 PM at Calheta de Baixo. A very pretty little seaside village with colorful houses. An idyllic beach, a newly renovated square, and super-friendly people. We pitched our tent facing the sea on the terrace of an abandoned house (after asking the locals for permission).
We cooked some of the dried fish we’d caught the day before, along with fresh beans we’d brought from Fogo (and were still carrying!).
At the summit of Monte Batalha
Calheta
Calheta de Baixo
Day 4 (Monday): From Calheta de Baixo to Morrinho on foot. Hiking time: 3h. Then hitching a bus to Cascabulho, and a car to Pedro Vaz.
We left around 9:30 AM heading north (path 201), following the coastline where the beaches just keep coming—each one wilder and more beautiful than the last: Praia de Soca, Calheta Braca, Ponta de Pau Seco, Calhetina. We reached the dunes of Baia de Santana. There’s no real path, so you have to follow the coast, then go around the dunes, and when you spot the 3 coconut trees, head east toward them to find the track leading to Morrinho. Again, we discovered a village with a Wild West vibe, with colorful houses lined up on either side of a paved road. Just enough time to accept a drink offered by a local before jumping onto the passing school bus that took us to Cascabulho. There, we waited for a ride. A political delegation of 10 cars drove right past us without stopping. Luckily, one of the cars had a flat tire and came by 30 minutes later—and that one, thankfully, gave us a lift! They were heading to the inauguration of a water pump in Pedro Vaz. So that’s where we stopped too. After getting permission from the school principal, we pitched our tent in front of the village school… and became the attraction for all the kids who kept us company until nightfall! A woman gave us 2 jugs of water, but with all that company, it was tough to take a peaceful shower!!
Dinner: pasta with beans.
We were woken up by rain during the night and had to rush to bring all our stuff inside the tent!
The beaches just keep coming...
The dunes
The 3 coconut trees, a landmark to find the track
Day 5 (Tuesday): Rest day and fishing at Boca da Ribeira beach
We packed up at 8 AM because the kids had school. We filled the 2 water jugs that the woman lent us and headed down to camp at Boca da Ribeira beach, which is a bit further east of Pedro Vaz. It took less than an hour to get there. This time, we really were alone in the world! We pitched the tent and spent the day fishing, reading, playing, and swimming regularly because the sun was beating down hard!!! We caught a nice fish that we grilled over the fire in the evening. With the crabs and shellfish we gathered, we made a seafood rice! Yum! What a feast!
That night, once the tent was zipped up, we felt something like rain on the tent fabric. I decided to go out and gather our things, and then—shock!!! It wasn’t raindrops we were feeling and hearing, but bugs attracted by the light!! Not just a few bugs—a huge swarm of them!!! Thousands of bugs covering the whole tent, the ropes, slipping into the seams and hems! Everywhere! The blue tent had turned green!!! After that, it was a real struggle to get back inside without letting any in! A real challenge, and there were always 3 or 4 that managed to sneak in anyway. Total war!!!
Boca da Ribeira beach
Day 6 (Wednesday): From Boca da Ribeira to Ribeira Dom João. Hiking time: 3h30
We woke up leisurely and waited for the sun to dry our things, damp from the dew. A man passed by, and we gave him the water jugs we’d borrowed, which saved us a trip back to Pedro Vaz to return them to the woman.
We left around 10 AM. We followed the sea to Alcatraz, then headed toward Pilão Cão. The path runs alongside the small hills on our right, and we passed above Lagoa Cimidor. The terrain is arid, and the path is hard to find among the many goat tracks.
After 3h30 of hiking, we reached Ribeira Dom João with 2 young people we’d met along the way.
Since it was a public holiday in Cape Verde, the kids didn’t have school, and with the principal’s permission, we pitched our tent in the kindergarten. She even kindly opened the school toilets for us. The neighbor gave us the water we needed to wash up and cook. We cooked beef steaks on charcoal. A nice change from fish!! Charcoal is a widespread artisanal product on the island. People almost never cook directly over wood but always with these big chunks of charcoal.
The hills on our right
Ribeira Dom João
Day 7 (Thursday): From Ribeira Dom João to Vila do Maio. Hiking time: 3h30
We woke up at 6:30 AM to clear out of the school by 8 AM. The neighbor made us coffee to save time. It took us 2 hours to reach Barreiro, another Wild West-style town! Since we didn’t want to walk on the road, we took the old track and reached Vila do Maio in 1h30.
Last night before taking the plane back to Praia the next day.
Barreiro
The old track
The church in Vila do Maio
That’s where this trip ends!
Maio is truly a magical island! A remote, isolated place with incredible, wild beaches and villages with a Wild West feel—colorful houses on either side of well-paved, well-maintained, and decorated streets. And the locals are so warm and welcoming.
Even for hikers like us, it was a great discovery, and we were able to alternate hiking and relaxation with great pleasure! Too bad the area around Vila do Maio is being overrun by real estate construction—ongoing, unfinished, abandoned…
And we still haven’t seen everything!
Before setting off for new horizons at the end of this year, it’s time for me to share my trip to Cape Verde this summer 2025.
I particularly love these spontaneous trips, and our stay in Cape Verde is one of those because it was only at the beginning of April that we decided on this getaway, which had been catching our eye for a while, given our love for the mountains.
As always—well, when it’s open—I turned to VF, and I want to immediately thank Marie, aka ptitortue, who helped me a lot in planning this trip through her travel journals and our exchanges!
Because Cape Verde is both small and vast! We decided not to rush from one airport to another, to enjoy the places and the people, but also to relax, since the work backlog from being stuck in May (see my previous travel journal 😅) had to be caught up on in June.
So, 4 islands will be our winners from 06/28 to 07/19:
Santiago first for logistical reasons, as round-trip flights from the capital Praia were the cheapest (650 €/person from Lyon via Lisbon with TAP, still!)
São Vicente, because it’s the gateway to the next one but ultimately more than that...
Santo Antão, pretty much the main goal of the trip since Marie (and the photos) had really sold it to me.
And finally, Sal Island, for some rest—a non-negotiable condition for my other half—and we’ll see that I should’ve listened to Marie...
That said, what a chatterbox I am—buckle up, flight attendants at the doors, off we go on new beautiful escapes! (Thanks to Sophie for the easy loan)
Last note for my eager fan club 😏: yes, there will be alcohol—how could there not be in the land of grogue!
Hi everyone, I’m Patrick, 67 years old, a seasoned traveler (already 22 trips outside Europe).
In autumn 2025, I took my first 3-week trip to Japan, with stops in Tokyo, Kamakura, Matsumoto, Kamikochi, Takayama, Kanazawa, Kyoto, Nara, Osaka, Koyasan, Tokyo again, and Nikko.
I wanted to go back in May 2026 and explore some lesser-known places to complement my first trip.
Last year, there were four of us traveling together to discover Japan (a fairly classic itinerary). This time, I’ll be traveling solo for part of the trip and with a couple of French friends for the rest.
The weather was gorgeous in May, averaging around 25°C, with two very hot days in Kyoto and only two rainy days.
As usual, I organized everything myself, gathering plenty of information from various sites, including this one.
Transportation:
An ICOCA card is essential.
I got a 5-day Kansai-Hiroshima pass because I took the shinkansen between Hiroshima and Osaka three times, and it paid for itself quickly.
Accommodations:
Mostly through Booking. No issues at all. Average cost was 46 € per night.
Meals:
For breakfast, I alternated between buying food at a konbini to eat in my room or on the train and grabbing something at local cafés.
For lunch and dinner, I tried to vary my meals as much as possible—lots of sashimi, sushi, and ramen.
Okonomiyaki in Osaka and Hiroshima.
Oysters in every form (raw, grilled, fried) in Onomichi and Hiroshima.
A variety of seafood (shrimp, shellfish) in Hiroshima and Matsumoto.
Fish whose names often escaped me, but notably mackerel and eel (unagi).
Tempura and gyoza.
Chicken skewers (yakitori) and one teppanyaki meal.
One omakase meal (9 different dishes).
In the end, not much meat aside from a few yakitori skewers. No splurges on super expensive wagyu or Kobe beef.
Average dinner cost: 4,800 yen, drinks included.
The Itinerary:
Day 1: Departure from Brussels
Day 2: Arrival in Osaka
Day 3: To Himeji, then Kurashiki
Day 4: To Fukuyama, then Tomo no Ura, then Onomichi
Day 5: Cycling the Shimanami Kaido
Day 6: To Takahara, then Hiroshima
Day 7: To Kyoto to attend the Aoi Matsuri parade
Day 8: To Miyajima
Day 9: Hiroshima, then Kyoto
Day 10: Southern Kyoto
Day 11: Northern Kyoto
Day 12: Final day in Kyoto, then to Nagatsugawa
Day 13: Start of the Nakasendo Trail (Magome to Tsumago)
Day 14: Second day of the trail (Kiso Fukushima)
Day 15: Third day of the trail (Narai), then Matsumoto
Day 16: To Mt. Fuji (Kawaguchiko)
Day 17: To Tokyo
Day 18: Excursion to Enoshima and Kamakura
Day 19: Flight home, with a 10-hour layover in Hong Kong
Day 20: Arrival in Brussels
"So, my little wanderers, back at the decks? What’s this mystery destination you’ve got in store for us at the start of the year?"
Yes, the schoolyard bell’s ringing again! We’re hitting the road... or rather, the skies! At first glance, our destination might surprise more than a few. First off, simply because I was here exactly twenty years ago, and I don’t usually like retracing my own footsteps. Secondly, because the name of this place screams mass tourism—basically the opposite of what Flo and I look for.
Despite that, in this land of backsheesh, I’d promised myself I’d come back one day to experience it my way. And since Flo told me, during our wanderer chats, that this destination straddling Africa and the Middle East was in her top 2 travel dreams, the stars aligned for this roots-style trip to quickly make it onto our pharaonic festivities program! Unless you’re totally clueless in general knowledge, you’ve probably guessed by now—we’re off to Egypt! Of course, a few classics will be on our itinerary, but above all, we want to soak up a culture that can’t be appreciated in four-star resorts or on a Nile cruise boat. And let’s be clear, these next two weeks won’t be a walk in the park—neither for our two daughters who are joining us, nor for our bodies!
And that’s clear from the get-go: after our first flight, eight hours of trying (and failing) to sleep on Milan airport’s metal seats, our second flight, landing, passport stamps, our Uber ride, and our first Cairo kilometers, we finally drop our exhaustion at the little guesthouse we booked in Giza. Doesn’t all that energy deserve a little reward?
Oh, absolutely! And here it is: a full-on slap in the face for everyone! But just look at this view from our hotel terrace? For 20 € a night for four, even with this incredible view, I figured the room must be pretty shabby, right? Nope... Is the staff rude, then? Nope... Okay, so what’s the catch? You’re gonna tell me breakfast is included too? Well, yes! Honestly, this Egypt trip is off to a great start.
And the rest of the afternoon, spent rubbing shoulders with locals, only confirmed this vibe. After digesting our pyramid view, we dove into the hustle and bustle of our neighborhood with the goal of exchanging money, eating at street stalls, and testing the hospitality of the locals. Ten out of ten!
Eight little sun breads with baba ganoush and falafel? 80 pounds, or 1.5 €. A dozen Middle Eastern pastries? Same! 80 pounds! Two hawawshis, those little pita breads stuffed with meat and spices? 10 pounds each, or about twenty cents! Not to mention all those smiles and free "welcomes" left and right!!!
What a welcome! We end this first day with a sunset over the three sisters of Giza—where we’ll obviously be gawking tomorrow...
Hi everyone, we're back from a DIY USA road trip we organized from July 31, 2026, to August 26, 2026.
The destination: The Southwest USA, including Texas, Arizona, and New Mexico. Roughly 7,000 kilometers covered.
The car: A Chevrolet Equinox for two, rented through BSP Auto and Avis. Inside, we had 2 suitcases, a travel bag, two carry-on bags, a Walmart cooler, photo gear, and water bottles (a 40-pack).
The route: Dallas DFW, Fort Worth, Houston, Austin, San Antonio, Alpine, El Paso, Tucson, Sedona, Albuquerque, Amarillo, and back to Dallas to finish with a departure from DFW.
The travelers: Two seniors well advanced in years (73 and 75) but still active (nothing too physically demanding—to stay alive and fund our trips), fully independent physically, though a bit less so mentally. Big USA fans, a country where anything is possible. More walkers than hikers, preferring 3-star hotels over roadside motels, Italian restaurants over US food, frequent stops for photos, museums over nothing, naps over forced marches. Not too whiny, just enough to stay French in the land of the "great Satan," as they say.
Not great with languages—street English (but handy), and my Spanish is non-existent except for: "Hola! Una cerveza por favor!" That’s about it. My wife understands everything but refuses to speak.
The cost of the road trip: Around 12,000 €, including AF flights, the car, gas, gifts, visits, and everything else. Well managed, since we’d budgeted 13,500 € initially.
The positive side: A delight, with those endless open roads. Museums to discover. The realization of the Hispanic presence and its important history in this part of America. Lovely locals. Tourists who were more or less friendly. A terrible Texan accent that was hard to understand. Gas stations that were like real stores, with prepared food, alcohol sold in Arizona and New Mexico, and employees who were always up for a laugh!
The negative side: The heat throughout the trip... 43°C in Dallas at the end. Impossible to walk the streets. Lots of homeless people in downtown Dallas. Hotel breakfasts that were always the same. You get used to it.
So, it was positive overall, but the concept is starting to wear us out. We might rethink the DIY road trip model for next time. If the man upstairs grants us more time.
Next up, we’ll wait for the first batch of sorted photos to go through the wringer.
It was winter, a winter with beautiful weather,
A season that only exists in the southwest of America,
I remember very well what I told you that morning
A month ago... A century ago, an eternity ago...
We’ll go... wherever you want, whenever you want...
Well, yeah, back from our adventure in our enchanting American West just a month ago, we’re already taking a bite out of one of its lesser-known competitors. "Flo, if you had to pick just one reason to justify your love for the U.S., what would it be?" The greasy, dripping burgers? No, I don’t think I’m going out on a limb by saying it’d be the wide-open spaces... And that’s exactly what our new quest is taking us to—a land on the other side of the globe where the horizon also seems endless, where silence tastes like salty wind and sand, where freedom is measured in kilometers of desert tracks, where the GPS is mostly there to confirm you’re lost in the middle of nowhere... Add to that magic formula the fact that you’ll see more zebras, giraffes, wildebeest, and elephants than people per square kilometer, and you can imagine us setting foot in Southern Africa for the first time, more precisely at the small airport in Windhoek, capital of... of...? Brush up on your geography, damn it! We’re landing in Namibia!!!
To be honest, Namibian landscapes have been flirting with me for ages. So how did I resist this island of temptation for so long? First, the budget. Let’s just say that for the same amount of effort (and kidneys), the bank lets you choose two other adventures almost anywhere else on the planet. Then there were my girls. Yeah, back then, they were too little to dose up on Malarone, the only malaria remedy at the time... Long story short, ten years later, all the planets have aligned. First, I won the Euromillions! Well, almost... Let’s just say my girls are now old enough... not to take Malarone, but to stop following me on all my adventures! Jackpot! "Flo, how about a little two-person caprice, just the two of us, tackling the Namibian tracks?"
As we landed on the runway, first wow effect: The horizon is immense. It’s flat as can be, incredibly flat... So much flat space! Did I mention it was flat?... Looking into the distance, it feels like your gaze could circle the Earth without hitting a single obstacle—until you end up staring at your own backside. "Oh, what a nice view!" Well, it’s the first time I’ve seen my butt from this angle! Touching moment... Sorry, I’m rambling—must be the exhaustion from the three-flight marathon we just powered through via Ethiopia and South Africa... And yet, no time to philosophize about my anatomy. As usual, we want to rack up our first kilometers to be front and center at dawn tomorrow. After wrapping up the tedious Namibian immigration formalities and meeting the 4x4 that’ll be our companion day and night for the next fifteen days, we’re off! We’re not exactly fresh, but we’re ready to tackle the next five hundred kilometers in night mode, cruise control set due south! Just outside Windhoek, the local wildlife—a jackal—welcomes us with a smile: "Welcome to Namibia!" That’s what it said! Honest... Okay, first endless straight road, first flaming sunset, first corrugated dirt track, first Milky Way with zero light pollution... You get it—it’s definitely the day of firsts... First night camping, too, in the big trunk of our Toyota Fortuner parked by the side of the track... The real adventure, the kind that smells under the arms, can finally begin...
Traveling with just one spare pair of underwear, considering a hot shower a miracle, never staying in the same place too long by sleeping wherever night catches us, taking whatever local, improbable, and rickety transport we can find—this is the DNA of us wanderers. Except this time, the script for our movie is going to be a whole different genre. On paper, the destination doesn’t exactly scream epic adventure: Réunion! And what’s more... we won’t be two, or four, or even ten. We’ll be a solid thirty. All from the same family. Yes, thirty. At this point, it’s not just a trip—it’s a summer camp on the move! Why inflict this on such a peaceful island? Because my brother decided to get married there with his lovely bride. A great idea, you might say... especially when it involves relocating the equivalent of a small Ardennes village 10,000 kilometers from home for three weeks! So who’s stepping up to be the guide and wave the little flag?
So, for an exceptional trip, exceptional stories! Don’t worry, the debates at the supermarket over whether to choose plain chips or roast chicken chips, the beach picnics washed down with ti’ punch, and other rougail sausages to digest by the pool will only make it into the family archives. Here, I’ll stick to the tales of our beautiful escapes, the ones where we explore the wild corners of this little volcanic rock planted in the middle of the Indian Ocean. So where exactly are we headed?
For the first week—the subject of this first installment—we’re taking it easy. We’ll start by rediscovering the coastline, from the Souffleur in Saint-Leu to the Hermitage lagoon, before a little trip to the Cirque de Cilaos and its legendary road with 400 turns, just to get our legs warmed up.
"How about a Christmas market this year, huh? A little romantic weekend getaway...
- Yes! That’d be cool! Strasbourg? Colmar?
- Feels a bit déjà vu, doesn’t it? Plus, slim chance of snow there... And I’d love something a bit more exotic with a touch of originality..."
"Okay, Google, give me the list of the five most beautiful Christmas markets in Europe.
- In fifth place, the Christmas market in Vilnius, the capital of Lithuania.
- Save your breath! Lithuania, here we come!"
We wanted cold, and cold is exactly what we got the moment we set foot in this new, unknown land. As for landscapes, forests and lakes stretch as far as the eye can see across this vast plain, its vegetation scorched by the frost of a winter that’s clearly already well underway here.
Lakes, in fact, set the scene for our first visit to Trakai Castle, whose brick-red towers and walls rise proudly against the azure sky of our first day. Lakes, because this castle was built on an island and is only accessible on foot via a series of walkways spanning half-frozen lake offshoots. I couldn’t have picked a better spot to build my castle! Translation: We’re totally sold! Proof is we spend two hours hiking around the area, alternating between forests, reeds, and cozy houses tastefully decorated for Christmas.
With my girlfriend Christelle, we’ve chosen South Africa for our first trip to Southern Africa, focusing on safaris—after a long debate with a Cape Town/Kruger combo.
But that would’ve meant cutting out St Lucia, which would’ve been harder to fit into another trip.
And St Lucia—thanks to Michel and all those travel journals—we really wanted to go there.
So our 11-night itinerary ended up like this, mostly shaped by school holidays:
- 3 nights in St Lucia
- 1 night in Hluhluwe
- 1 night at Mkhaya Game Reserve (Eswatini)
- 1 night at Hlane Royal National Park (Eswatini)
- 3 nights in Kruger (Berg en Dal / Satara / Tamboti)
- 1 night at Shindzela Tented Camp in the Timbavati private reserve
- 1 final night in Kruger at Lower Sabie
All of this in the off-season and rainy season, just a month after catastrophic floods that killed over 150 people and seriously damaged Kruger’s infrastructure.
I’ll jump straight to St Lucia and skip the loooong journey to get there (with a layover in Frankfurt, landing in Johannesburg, a domestic flight to Durban, and the rest by rental SUV—First Car Rental, perfect, no complaints).
To motivate readers—especially some familiar faces here—I’ll drop in a first photo.
This travel journal is therefore intended solely for my photos, to present a consistent style.
All the shots were taken with a simple Samsung Galaxy smartphone and with whatever was at hand.
All stays combined, I’ve spent the equivalent of three years at most in Thailand, and I’m not a big expert on the country.
However, after many trips, lots of reading on VoyageForum and other sites, and conversations with many locals as well as expats, my view of the country is becoming clearer, though it’s constantly evolving. You never stop discovering and learning.
I guess I wanted to piece together a puzzle, mainly for those who want to get an idea of the country here and for those who miss it.
I don’t know if this minimalist sharing will interest anyone, but it’ll do me good to put it together. After so many months without traveling and then these other long months with VF closed, there’s plenty of material available.
There’ll be a mix of places, periods, and subjects, but it might well be intentional.
I suspect many Thais have dogs because they make excellent guards for the home. Nothing better to deter burglars or to signal the presence of a snake. You’ll often see Thais tapping the top of their dog’s head, but don’t be fooled: it’s a sign of affection from them. Judging by the dogs’ reactions, they’re used to it.
Thailand is one of the countries on the planet where rabies is still present, so keep that in mind. It’s not just bites that can be dangerous, so don’t let just any dog lick you. Especially on a wound, of course.
Even though dogs often fear humans—this dangerous and unpredictable predator—we still need to stay cautious.
Be careful when walking into alleys because the dog will defend its master’s big property, be careful at night, and be careful when they’re in packs.
It sometimes crosses our minds that Thailand isn’t really made for walking around, and dogs are one of the reasons.
That said, it’s not uncommon to see them chasing bikes or scooters. Cars, though, are much rarer—they’re too big.
It seems Thais prefer to give their dogs freedom by not locking them behind gates. Though sometimes the gate is closed, the little side door is wide open. Oh, and sometimes there’s no gate in front of the property, or it’s been broken for years.
You’ll often see dogs sleeping on the side of the road, sometimes right on the road. When you arrive, they move aside nonchalantly—or not at all. It’s less funny when they suddenly appear from thick vegetation, which reminds visitors not to drive too fast. As a result, you’ll notice that dogs with injuries or missing legs aren’t that rare.
Since they believe in reincarnation and respect for all forms of life, they don’t chase dog packs away too much, and they don’t sterilize them enough. Seeing a small pack roaming freely in the countryside, you might think it’s best not to cross paths with them at the edge of a field.
A darker side of this is that euthanasia isn’t often practiced. Twice, we saw dogs at temples on the brink of death, enduring terrible suffering. No one did anything about it. The image (and the smell) of one of them, dying and emitting the stench of death, still comes back to me sometimes.
Some of you may have seen the YouTube vlog of a French woman living in Phuket who was given a little pig by her Thai friends. The well-fed animal quickly became a happy, enormous beast with its own garden. Yet, it didn’t take long for it to fall seriously ill and become incurable. In her video, the French woman described how difficult it was to find a vet willing to perform euthanasia.
You’ll often see bowls by the side of the road. Thais leave food and water in them for stray cats and dogs. Overall, they have a big heart for animals.
If you ever pop into a shopping mall, you might see people pushing their small dogs in strollers. It’s not a gimmick—it’s just that these strollers are provided for customers to put their pets in, otherwise you can’t bring them inside. It looks a bit odd when you expect to see a baby.
When we started looking for a summer destination a few months ago, our first criterion was to avoid extreme heat and heatwaves. We had already been to Norway two years ago and are considering going back in the future for other occasions. So, we had some fun asking ChatGPT which destinations enjoyed a mild climate during the summer without going too far. Among the list provided by the AI were the Canary Islands... The idea of a place we wouldn’t have thought of first, both not too far away and exotic enough, appealed to us: “Hmm, why not?”
This destination had never really attracted me, though Magali was a bit more interested. Five years earlier, COVID had caused a short break in my professional activity, and I had planned a trip because the flight price was attractive, and I was looking for a destination different from what usually appeals to me, more than out of deep interest. From a distance and with a social judgment I acknowledge (it’s not great, but it’s not completely wrong), I had the image of a destination for party-goers enjoying the sun without the slightest interest in local culture, with concrete coastlines and denatured landscapes—everything I detest the most. Still, I had done some quick research on the different islands and spotted Lanzarote for its beautiful volcanic landscapes, hiking trails, beaches, and the impression of a good balance between activity and fewer crowds than Tenerife or Gran Canaria. Then I dropped the idea of going, without ever reconsidering traveling to the Canaries...
Until now! Because we started researching the different islands of the archipelago to see which ones might appeal to us the most. It was La Gomera, the third smallest island of the archipelago, more praised for its hiking trails and preserved nature than for its beaches, away from mass tourism (fifty times fewer tourists than Tenerife) but still a bit more developed than its wild neighbor El Hierro, that caught our attention. Contrary to what might be suggested later, I’m not at all addicted to AI, but I use it from time to time to synthesize quick research or simply for experimentation. Since ChatGPT had started anticipating my tastes lately as if it had become my buddy (often successfully, sometimes off the mark), I asked which Canary Island would suit me best for a trip with my family. The tool answered first with... La Gomera. So, I tested it and teased it a bit to see if this suggestion was well-founded, as the method sometimes makes it contradict itself. But no luck: “You’d appreciate the wild nature of El Hierro, but with family, you’ll find little activity for the kids. You won’t like the touristy vibe of the big islands like Tenerife, Gran Canaria, Lanzarote, and Fuerteventura. You could consider La Palma, but it’s really La Gomera that will suit you best, based on your interests and the criteria given.” So, we dug deeper into our research and were convinced without a shadow of a doubt that this island was the one waiting for us.
Without knowing it, we had Canarians in our circle who revealed their origins when they heard about our travel plans. One from Tenerife insisted we’d be better off choosing Tenerife (obviously...) because it also has preserved spots and that La Gomera, “you can explore it in two or three days, you’ll get bored quickly...” The other, a colleague from Gran Canaria who had never visited La Gomera, still recommended it without hesitation because it turned out her parents had just gone there on vacation: they loved it and had encountered few tourists. She also tended to think this destination was usually the subject of short stays, but according to what her parents told her, taking your time there was also a great idea. However, in our research, the idea that La Gomera is an island you can explore in three or four days max kept coming up. So, we considered combining its visit with La Palma or El Hierro, the other two that caught our eye. But hopping between islands by ferry represents a significant budget for non-Canarians, even more so for a family of four. Then, scrutinizing Google Maps, it seemed obvious that two weeks were too short to discover two islands as they deserve, and that there seemed to be plenty to see in La Gomera, given its very unique culture. After all, we read that some people spend several months a year there, others never even leave... Finally, these landscapes and this atmosphere, which seemed to us a mix of Europe, North Africa, and Latin America, tempted us. So, it would be two weeks in La Gomera, deal!
La Gomera is therefore the second... well, the third smallest island of the Canaries since La Graciosa was recently recognized as a fully inhabited island. It has the shape of a rough circle about 20 to 25 kilometers in diameter and has just over 20,000 inhabitants, half of them in its capital, San Sebastián de la Gomera, the only real town. Like its Canarian sisters, La Gomera is a volcanic formation that rose about 10 million years ago. The island is very mountainous and rugged, covered with red and black rocky landscapes. Geological activity has shaped, between the sprawling massifs that end in steep cliffs in the ocean, six coastal valleys with tropical vegetation that have favored human settlement. They divide the island like slices of a cake; from the north clockwise: the agricultural Vallehermoso, the rustic Agulo, the green, humid, and fertile Hermigua, the sunny capital San Sebastián de la Gomera, the southern and isolated Alajeró-Santiago, and the seaside Valle Gran Rey. They constitute the six municipalities (more like cantons to our French understanding) of the territory.
The large solidified magma massifs that shape the heart of the island have created a large depression more protected from the sun at its center, allowing the growth of a vast laurel forest, today grouped within the Garajonay National Park, La Gomera’s green lung, which has earned it the status of a World Biosphere Reserve. Its completely European appearance contrasts sharply with the rocky and tropical landscapes of the rest of the island. Thus, the climate varies greatly from one point to another on the island: in summer, you can quickly go from a dry and sunny valley at 35°C to a humid forest area at altitude at 18°C.
La Gomera was populated late. As with the rest of the Canaries, human presence is thought to have begun about 2,000 years ago. Groups of animist Berbers, probably fleeing persecution, gradually populated the archipelago, especially the western islands and La Gomera, becoming its small aboriginal population: the Guanches (or later Gomeros). The animist and pastoral civilization of the Guanches thrived until the Spanish takeover in the 15th century, which, after a short period of harmony and mixing with the indigenous people, suddenly ended in bloodshed... La Gomera later became the “Columbus Island” after Christopher Columbus’s stopover, increasing the blending of populations. In the 20th century, many Gomeros emigrated to Cuba and other Latin American countries in search of a better life, bringing back a mix of cultures and traits quite palpable in today’s Gomeran culture. It is, however, in La Gomera that the vestiges of Guanche culture seem to have left the most traces, in the language, gastronomy, social practices... Moreover, most Gomeros, especially in remote villages, have a particular identifiable type and proudly claim their ancestral roots, even making La Gomera a bit exotic in the eyes of other Canarians.
Perhaps that’s why it has never really wanted to develop its tourist infrastructure too much. If we set aside the tourists who visit for the day by bus or boat from Tenerife on a marked itinerary (and whom we ultimately rarely encounter), La Gomera has remained a hidden gem, a destination focused on nature discovery that attracts hikers, nature-loving divers, and scientists for its fauna and flora, and to a lesser extent, beachgoers who don’t seek overly developed coastlines. Tourist activity is therefore limited. Roughly speaking, you’ll find a majority of Spaniards, including a substantial number of residents from other Canary Islands, many Germans who have a particular fondness for La Gomera and spend long stays there or own second homes, to the point that the German cultural footprint is clearly noticeable in some places (it’s said to be Angela Merkel’s favorite holiday spot), and still quite a few French. The presence of other nationalities seemed negligible to us. Most travelers come mainly for hiking, but it’s also a prime spot for whale watching. Additionally, the seaside resorts of La Gomera—San Sebastián, Santiago, and especially Valle Gran Rey—are well-known destinations for hippies, especially German ones, ranging from chic boho hippies to old-school hippies who’ve been there for decades, quite similar to those you’d meet in India in Goa, Rishikesh, or Paharganj. Thus, practices like naturism, vegetarianism, and local organic production are quite well established in some areas.
Some practical info:
- The round-trip flight from Paris to Tenerife cost us 365 € per person (outbound with Transavia, return with EasyJet), including checked luggage and three seats reserved side by side.
- We chose two bases to explore the island: one week in Valle Gran Rey, reputed to be the most pleasant of the three seaside resorts, and one week in Hermigua, more mountainous and close to the natural park. We booked two houses with balconies and views: the first at 120 € per night, the second at 99 €.
- The round-trip ferry between Tenerife and La Gomera cost us 270 € with the company Baleària Canarias, including discounts for children aged 4 and 12, but I don’t have the exact details. It was a bit cheaper than with the other company, Fred Olsen.
- Finally, we rented a car through the agency Cicar for 360 € for 16 days, which comes to 22.50 € per day.
- Apart from that, we didn’t plan anything and decided the day before or even the morning of what we wanted to do. We didn’t invest in any paper guide on the Canaries, as information on La Gomera was scarce, but we used the very comprehensive site La Gomera Travel, a travel guide published by the Canary Islands Tourism Council, a real goldmine of almost exhaustive information on the island.
Alright, off we go for 16 days of adventure discovering La Gomera!
If I close my eyes and think of the Sultanate of Oman, I first smell a light scent of incense, feel the warmth of a sunbeam on my skin, before sand slips through my fingers. I taste the sweetness of a date, a real candy, then the flavor of coffee with a hint of cardamom and rosewater... I hear the desert wind whistling in my ears, the distant call of a muezzin, then the murmur of water. I open my eyes to see smiles, welcoming gestures, a turquoise sea, rocks ranging from ochre to purple, deep wadis where torrents burst forth, orange dunes, white sandy beaches where tiny crabs scurry at full speed. I see incredible oases emerging between arid mountains. I see abandoned villages that I’d dream were full of life, imposing fortresses overlooking valleys, and lively souks where offers are delicate and negotiation is a mutual courtesy.
All that, and so much more.
This is what I tried to capture in my illustrated travel journal, which I’ll fill in here and there with photos.
I drew this journal “cold,” after my return (actually, I made it this summer, while our trip was last winter). It’s a pretty special format—I bought it in Japan without really knowing what I’d do with it. Well, it found its purpose! Below is a photo of this accordion-style journal: here, it’s only partially open, because when fully unfolded, it’s 5 meters long!
For drawing enthusiasts: The accordion format is both a constraint (each sheet is 9 cm x 27 cm) and a freedom (you can create a fresco). The paper is also a bit special: it doesn’t allow for fine lines, but it takes ink well (liner pen). However, everything has to be done almost in one go (with a very light pencil sketch) because it erases poorly. It absorbs too much water for coloring with markers or watercolors (unless you avoid soaking it), but it works well with oil pastels and their use with a brush and solvent. Since it’s yellowish, it allowed me to create contrasts even with white pastel.
On the right, the "welcome marker"—those dates offered everywhere as a sign of hospitality. On the left, a tribute to those stunning doors worn by time, admired all over the old quarters, including the abandoned ones.
Oman is one of the world’s largest producers of frankincense resin. Incense burners are everywhere, from the simplest clay ones to the most precious handcrafted silver ones...
Hospitality will often lead you to accept a small coffee, an "Omani coffee," very light, subtly flavored with cardamom, maybe a touch of saffron, and occasionally rosewater.
Here, I’ve depicted a man in the common everyday attire of Omanis: the dishdasha, mostly white (during the week and daytime; colors are more common in the evening or on Fridays and Saturdays). While you’ll see some men dressed in Western clothes, they’re very few. The white dishdasha is truly the shared attire of all men. The dishdasha, which has no hood, is distinguished by a small pom-pom attached to the collar, the furakha, which is soaked in perfume. And believe me, Omanis go overboard with it! "It smells like the pom-pom" is an expression that’s now part of our shared language, my husband and I.
Another must of men’s attire is the kuma, a small round head covering, usually white with brightly colored patterns. The keffiyeh is also worn (but without the cord called an agal in Arab countries), and it’s mostly worn by those with roots in the desert, from what I understood.
And what about the women, you might ask? Some are veiled, some in full black (but not a burka—more like a chador + abaya), due to the influence of Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates, whereas the traditional outfit used to be a layering of very colorful dresses. Most of the women we saw wore neutral clothing, a plain veil over their hair, but with their faces uncovered. We also saw many saris and colorful veils—don’t forget that 40% of the population consists of Indian, Nepalese, and Bangladeshi immigrants, who work a lot in tourism, hospitality, restaurants, services, and construction.
Just to clarify, as a tourist, there’s no pressure to wear a veil, and never any disapproving looks. Of course, you’ll save the mini shorts, plunging necklines, bare shoulders, and midriffs for the hotel terrace—but I’d say that’s the same for men and women, and with the sun being strong, it’s better for your skin too.
Here’s the introduction! In the next post, I’ll tell you about my itinerary, and we can dive in!
My buddy Christian and I (Patrick) are off for 28 days in Argentina in March.
We’ve already shared several trips as a duo (Bolivia Peru, Namibia, Laos, Costa Rica).
Since we’re starting from the idea that at our age (65) we won’t be coming back here—there are just too many other corners of the world to discover—we did the "grand tour" of Argentina, with 6 domestic flights to make the most of our 28 days.
Here are our stops:
1) Departure from Brussels to Buenos Aires via Madrid
2) Arrival and first contact with Buenos Aires
3) Early morning flight to Ushuaia. Boat trip on the Beagle Channel
4) Ushuaia: hikes in Tierra del Fuego National Park
5) Ushuaia: last hike and flight to El Calafate
6) El Calafate to El Chaltén by bus. First hike
7) El Chaltén: hike
8) El Chaltén: hike
9) El Chaltén: hike and bus back to El Calafate
10) El Calafate: Perito Moreno Glacier
11) Flight to Bariloche. Car rental and surrounding areas
12) Seven Lakes Region
13) Nahuel Huapi National Park region
14) Flight to Salta. Car rental
15) To Tilcara
16) To Humahuaca
17) To Purmamarca
18) To Jujuy via the salt flats
19) To Cafayate
20) Around Cafayate
21) To Cachi
22) Back to Salta
23) Flight to Iguazu
24) Waterfalls on the Argentine side
25) Waterfalls on the Brazilian side and flight to Buenos Aires
26) Buenos Aires
27) Return flight
28) Morning arrival
Happy reading!..
We landed in Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, and headed straight to Kasane in Botswana to pick up our car.
Our vehicle is a 4x4 because in Zambia, it's practically impossible to use anything else, especially in the national parks. I’ve already had the pleasure of visiting South Luangwa National Park—it’s one of the reasons for this trip, the main one being to travel in Africa with one of my sons.
First stop: Livingstone on the banks of the Zambezi River. Along the way, we discovered a lovely restaurant at Socrates with a super-friendly owner (we’ll actually stop there again on our way back). We spent our first night in the rooftop tent after a stunning sunset, accompanied by the grunting of hippos in the river.
The next day, we set off early, heading to Kafue NP. In fact, we’ll always leave early—waking up between 5:00 and 5:30 AM and hitting the road an hour later. Kafue is a lesser-known park, mostly forested, and the animals are skittish because they’re not used to human presence. We crossed the park from south to north and came across various antelopes. Near Lake Itezhi-Tezhi, there are plains where wildlife is easier to spot.
After Kafue, we headed to South Luangwa. This journey requires stops in Mumbwa and Petauke. Two pleasant stops where we found lodges (a nice change from the rooftop tent) at affordable prices and met welcoming people.
For me, South Luangwa is Zambia’s most beautiful park—the river is stunning, the landscapes are gorgeous, and there’s a wide variety of wildlife, including, of course, big cats. A tip for those, like us, who aren’t with a guide: if you’re staying near the park for several days, don’t hesitate to do a "game drive" to scout out where the animals are so you can return the next day with your own vehicle. Of course, in the dry season, you’ll want to focus on waterholes to see the animals—and you’ll need a bit of luck too. The elephant population is growing, and we were lucky enough to see around sixty elephants crossing the Luangwa at dawn, spread across several groups. South Luangwa is the westernmost point of our trip, and we’re now heading east to Lower Zambezi.
Lower Zambezi is Zambia’s side of Mana Pools on the Zimbabwe side. We took a boat ride on the Zambezi to see elephants, hippos, crocodiles, and a multitude of birds living along the water and on the river’s islands. The sunset there is also magnificent.
To explore the park, we followed the waterways parallel to the Zambezi, mostly on the western side (see our route). Lower Zambezi is the last park we visit, and the final leg of our trip will be Victoria Falls.
Victoria Falls—or Mosi-Oa-Tunya ("The Smoke That Thunders")—are truly impressive, even during the dry season. We saw the falls from both countries: in Zambia for the overall view and the bridge that serves as the border, and in Zimbabwe to get as close as possible to the most spectacular parts of the falls.
This marks the end of our trip, which, despite a blown tire on the road, went off without any major issues. Zambia is a beautiful country that immerses you in wild, still-preserved nature.
The latest travel journal about Turkmenistan dates back to 2019. Here’s a quick update on this vast desert country, which is now a bit easier to visit than before.
This is my first travel journal. If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask. The country is slowly opening up, but it’s still possible to visit sites where you’ll be completely alone. In five days, I saw two Hongkongers, a few Germans, and a Chilean at the crater, ten Chinese people in a capital bazaar, and that’s it!
It’s possible to visit Turkmenistan from Uzbekistan. The easiest and most economical way is to take a taxi to the border from Bukhara. The trip takes a little over an hour.
Crossing the border takes quite a while because many Turkmen bring back items bought in Uzbekistan to resell in Turkmenistan. For example, diapers, baby products, or beauty products.
It took me over 2.5 hours to cross the border. To visit Turkmenistan, it’s mandatory to have a guide and go through a travel agency. British agencies often offer three-, five-, or seven-day trips for over 1,500 or 2,000 €.
But if your budget is more limited, you can contact a few Turkmen agencies directly by email, and they’ll make you an offer between 700 and 1,300 € for three to seven days. I took a five-day trip from Turkmenabat in the northeast of the country to Dashoguz in the north. The goal was to visit the main UNESCO-listed sites, including Merv, and archaeological sites like Nisa or Gonur Tepe.
Your guide will also be your driver. They’ll pick you up at the border. The formalities are very long because customs officers have to stamp multiple documents, and obtaining the visa you previously requested from your travel agency requires several checks. But the process goes relatively smoothly, even if each step takes a while.
Once on the other side, the first surprise is the brand-new highway all the way to Turkmenabat. A very long line of trucks stretches for several kilometers on the Turkmen side to cross the border into Uzbekistan. According to my guide, Turkmen trucks transport gas and cotton (though not this season, since the harvest is in September), but they mainly fill up their tanks because fuel is much cheaper in Turkmenistan. A full tank for a car costs about 3 €, which is unbeatable.
From the Farap border post, the goal is to reach the city of Mary, which is home to the UNESCO-listed site of Merv in its suburbs, about thirty kilometers away. This city is known as a foundation by Alexander the Great in the 4th century BC under the name Alexandria of Margiana. Several fortresses are visible.
After more than three hours on the road, we have lunch at a Turkish restaurant called Aladdin. Several quotes from the president are visible along the highway, but the road is in good condition, and we move along easily. This will be by far the best road in the country—things will get much worse later.
Roundabouts are particularly interesting because they feature emblems of Turkmen culture, like the dog, a carpet, the Ahal Teke horse, or Muslim symbols, even though the presence of Islamic artifacts is quite limited.
This time, I landed in Monastir on a direct flight from Nice, again with Tunisair. We left about ten minutes late, and the flight lasted around 1 hour 30 minutes. A meal was served on board (cucumber salad with Edam-like cheese, carrots, and two small portions of dishes I couldn’t identify—semolina with peppers, olives, and parsley, two small rolls, a square of processed cheese, and a chocolate cake). It’s worth noting because it’s not common on flights this short.
In February, France and Tunisia were in the same time zone, but now Tunisia is one hour behind. This time difference and the flight duration work perfectly for a short 15-day trip since it takes me a few days to adjust to jet lag.
Luckily, I’d asked my hotel about the taxi fare from the airport because the drivers (there were several around me) didn’t hesitate to quote outrageous prices. The actual fare is 20 dinars, but one asked for 120 dinars. I refused, and another offered 60 dinars. I replied, "That’s too expensive—I’ll take the metro!" (Having tried the Tunis metro, I had no desire to repeat the experience in Monastir with a suitcase!). I started walking toward the metro, and one of the drivers caught up with me, saying, "20 dinars is fine!" I’ll skip the details, but the negotiation took a little while.
When I arrived at the hotel, I told the receptionist someone had asked for 120 dinars. He put his hands to his head and said, "They’re awful!" He remembered our phone call two days earlier when I’d booked (he’s the one who told me I could take the metro).
The Mezri Hotel isn’t expensive. I got a sea-view room for 75 dinars (22 €). (I’d booked a balcony room for 90 dinars but wouldn’t have had time to enjoy it.) It’s well-located but noisy because there’s no double glazing.
The receptionist is a very kind older gentleman. He called a friend whose wife is from Tozeur to find out if I should take a bus or a *louage* tomorrow and what time.
I arrived at the hotel around 7:00 PM and had time to stroll along the corniche to the ribat. Despite some run-down buildings, the seaside seemed livelier and cheerier than Sousse’s.
Monastir is the hometown of former president Bourguiba. I passed his mausoleum by taxi. There are Tunisian flags along the avenue by the sea because every year on April 6—the anniversary of Habib Bourguiba’s death—the president of the Republic visits the Bourguiba Mausoleum in Monastir to pay respects.
The taxi driver mentioned other Tunisian presidents. He complained about rising prices and insecurity, blaming President Kaïs Saïed (I’d already heard that security was better under Ben Ali).
At the end of my stay, I’ll take time to explore Monastir, but tomorrow morning, I’m off to Tozeur—a long bus ride awaits me.
Here we go!!!
I left home at 4 AM on October 31st and headed to Barcelona. Driving through Barcelona on the ring road stresses me out a bit, but at 6 AM the traffic is smooth, and I arrive at the airport without any issues. I call the valet, who quickly comes to pick up my car. He takes photos of it from all angles before letting me go.
Baggage check-in hasn’t started yet, and there are already several of us waiting.
Once free, everything happens very quickly. The flight to Abu Dhabi is on time and goes smoothly. I’ve never had any problems with this airline, which I’ve been using for several years.
The flight to Bangkok arrives at 7 AM as scheduled. This is my first time in Thailand and Bangkok. I’m used to traveling in India, and I notice that everything here is well organized—the customs process is quick, and the luggage is already on the carousel.
I booked a taxi on Booking. All I have to do is find the right exit and door based on the agency’s instructions. A large sign with the names of people who booked is posted on a wall. A hostess greets me and calls the taxi, which arrives 5 minutes later. I booked one night at the Lost Inn BKK hotel in the Phra Nakhon district, and we arrive at 9 AM. The welcome isn’t warm, and I have to wait until noon, sitting on a chair, before I can check into my room. I’m exhausted, and sleeping sitting up isn’t ideal. Noon finally arrives—the room is small but clean, which is fine for one night. I quickly take a shower to wake up because I plan to spend the afternoon visiting the Grand Palace. First, I need to exchange some money, and the banks are all close together on the same street, which is very convenient. When I enter one, a hostess gives me a ticket and invites me to sit down. There are about twenty counters, and I wait quietly until my number is called. The exchange is quick, so I can head out to find the Royal Palace. It’s actually very easy, and the walk is pleasant.
Entry to the Royal Palace (500 baht).
It’s magnificent and grand, and there are quite a few of us visiting. The sky is gray, it’s very humid, and a shower interrupts the visit. It’s a vast complex of temples and palaces. The buildings are colorful and sparkling, with a great sense of serenity (without the tourists, of course). I quietly enjoy the place and try to take photos without tourists, which isn’t easy.
Very close to the Grand Palace is Wat Pho, one of the oldest Buddhist temples in the capital.
It’s very famous for its 46-meter-long reclining Buddha statue.
Walking around the temple, you can see different representations of Buddha, all covered in gold leaf.
Inside the temple, on one side, monks recite their prayers, while the other side is reserved for tourists who come to meditate in silence.
Before returning to the hotel, I have dinner at an Indian restaurant. I go to bed early because tomorrow’s wake-up call will be very early again.
Saturday, November 2nd
Wake-up at 4 AM, departure from the hotel at 4:30 AM. The taxi I booked via Booking is waiting for me and takes me to the airport. The trip is fairly quick—he takes small roads, and at this hour, there’s no traffic.
The flight to Phnom Penh is on time. Before boarding, I realize I left my fleece jacket on the carousel, but it’s too late to go back for it.
The flight goes well, and customs is quick.
At the exit, I take a tuk-tuk to Julieka’s GH near the museum. The welcome is friendly. I won’t be able to check into my room until noon, so I take the opportunity to exchange some euros on the market street. The street is lined with restaurants, and I’ll have my first meal there.
The museum is right across the street, so I don’t waste any time visiting it.
The representations of Hindu deities are very different from those in India, and I don’t recognize them. Many beautiful Buddhas are on display.
The museum is very pleasant, and there aren’t too many people, which is a plus.
At the exit, I return to the GH, settle into my room—which is decent and clean.
The Royal Palace is 1 km away. I walk along a garden, and at the end of the street is the Tonlé Sap, but I turn right. I arrive at a large esplanade and see the buildings with tiered roofs and glazed tiles. The entrance to the palace is a little further away.
At the entrance, I notice there isn’t the same crowd as at the one in BKK.
Khmer architecture is magnificent. The complex consists of gardens, palaces, pagodas with golden roofs, and slender spires.
The Silver Pagoda houses the small Emerald Buddha, which is actually made of jade. The silver flooring is covered with carpets. Photos are not allowed.
The walls surrounding the pagoda are covered with frescoes depicting scenes from the Ramayana.
My partner and I traveled from Sunday, July 5, 2026, to Wednesday, July 22, 2026.
We spent a long time debating whether to rent a car or use public transportation. In the end, after reading so many posts about travelers getting scammed by police or rental companies—even those recommended by blogs and reviews—we decided to stick with public transport. It worked out really well. Sure, we had a little less freedom to go where we wanted, but it was way less stressful for us.
Sunday, July 5:
Arrived at Cancun Airport. Withdrew cash from the ATM in the terminal just before exiting. The ADO bus counter (they pronounce it "A-Jee-O") is right behind you when you're facing the ATM. Bus to downtown Cancun cost 145 pesos per person.
Stayed at "Rose 5," booked on Booking. The studio was super clean and perfect for one night. The owner’s instructions for accessing the place were very precise, with photos included. Check-in was self-service with a code. The ADO bus terminal isn’t far, and there are shops and restaurants nearby. We really appreciated that the AC was already on when we arrived. By the way, I’d recommend always booking places with AC—it’s *really* hot in Mexico.
Monday, July 6:
Bought a SIM card with data from a TELCEL store. My partner, who’s on Free Mobile, was able to use her regular plan. Just so you know, I found the network pretty unstable. As soon as we left the cities, neither of us—me with TELCEL or her with Free—had any signal.
Another thing to watch out for: roaming charges. I had to turn my SIM back on for less than 30 seconds to get a bank SMS code, and my phone apparently connected to the internet—resulting in an 8-euro roaming fee.
Left on an ADO bus to Chiquila for 278 pesos per person. During our trip, ADO buses were always on time, comfortable, and clean. The AC is *cranked* though, so bring something to cover up with—it gets cold. Some routes were fully booked even in the low season, so try to reserve 1 or 2 days in advance either via the app (when it works) or at the counter.
When we arrived at the ADO terminal in Chiquila, the ferry company counters were right next to it. Ferries leave every 30 minutes, alternating between companies, so no need to book ahead. Just take whichever one is leaving next (330 pesos per person).
When we got to Holbox (pronounced "Hol-bosh"), we’d booked a place via Booking called "Casa de Nana." It was a huge studio with a fridge, cooking plate, and utensils. The best part? The *location*. It was 100 meters from the beach and 200 meters from a Chedraui supermarket. They provided bath towels and beach towels, and the AC worked perfectly. There’s a key box so you can leave your keys inside when you go out. The only downside was that no one was there to let us in when we arrived, so we had to wait a while. The Wi-Fi was good, which was lucky because during our 4-day stay in Holbox, the phone network *never* worked. According to locals, that’s pretty common in Holbox, along with water outages.
Luckily, I’d had the good idea to download an offline map, which helped us find our way back to the place more easily. You can walk there from the dock.
The restaurant next to our place (La Barracuda) was great if you like seafood—I’d recommend their octopus dishes.
Tuesday, July 7:
We did a kayak tour in Holbox’s mangroves at 6 AM. We were looking for a sunrise kayak tour with a French-speaking guide. That’s exactly what we got with "Kayaking Holbox," where Diego, the owner, speaks English and French. He was joined by Gustavo, another guide.
We’d booked for a group tour, but we were the only ones. Diego still went ahead with it instead of canceling due to lack of participants, so we got a private tour at the group rate—really professional of him. They showed us this amazing ecosystem for over 3 hours. We saw all kinds of birds: pink flamingos, pelicans, egrets, frigatebirds... rays, a horseshoe crab, and a little crocodile that was *so* well hidden. Diego and Gustavo have a real eye for spotting animals—I could’ve passed by the crocodile 100 times and never seen it, it blended in so well. Their explanations about the flora and fauna were super interesting. We also got a little break where we tasted mangoes and bananas that taste *nothing* like the ones in France. A real treat—those little Mexican yellow mangoes! I’d definitely recommend Diego and his agency for a French-language kayak tour (1000 pesos per person).
In the evening, we walked to Punta Coco to see the bioluminescence. No need for a guided tour—if you really don’t want to walk, you can take a taxi. At Punta Coco, you have to pass the beach bar/restaurant and then go left into a kind of inlet that forms a lagoon. You have to wiggle your feet or move your hands in the water to create movement, which makes the light appear. Just don’t expect the kind of photos you’ve seen online—they’re all edited! It’s fun to see, but you won’t be dazzled by the light...
Wednesday, July 8:
Whale shark tour with "My Holbox Tours." Why recommend this agency over others for swimming with whale sharks? Simply because Valérie surrounds herself with top professionals to make your experience unforgettable. We were with Captain Fernando, who does everything to position the boat perfectly and make your swim easier. In the water, we were with Humberto, who also goes above and beyond to make sure you have an incredible time. He doesn’t just "supervise" like some guides from other companies who leave you on your own. No, Humberto reads the whale shark’s trajectory and guides you—all you have to do is follow him. He really puts in the effort, even holding your hand to guide you through this quick but intense encounter. Humberto also films the moment and will offer to show you the videos and sell them to you. His footage is really high quality.
Fernando and Humberto also prepared food for us. Special mention for their guacamole! Valérie is there to make sure everything goes smoothly on the boat and to answer your questions in French, English, or Spanish about these animals. If you choose My Holbox Tours, you can be sure you’ll get a top-notch experience.
About the tour itself: before you go, you should know that the sharks can be *really* far away. The day we went, it took 3.5 hours by boat to reach them. The boats are small, and let me tell you—on the way there, when we weren’t going with the waves, it was *rough*. Out of 9 passengers, 4 got seasick. But once you’re face-to-face with the shark, you forget all about that. Even if swimming with a whale shark isn’t exactly a walk in the park—they swim pretty fast, so you need some endurance to keep up. You’ll usually get 2 turns. Our first swim lasted a little over 4 minutes, and the second about 2 minutes because the shark was moving fast and we were still tired from the first swim. It might seem short, but when you’re swimming, it feels *long*. Either way, it’s an experience you *have* to do—but choose your company wisely. On the way back, there’s a stop at Cabo Catoche. Honestly, the snorkeling is pretty disappointing if you’ve done it elsewhere in the world. But the lunch stop at Cabo Catoche is really nice for relaxing (white sand and hammocks).
Thursday, July 9:
Short morning walk to Punta Mosquito at 6 AM. Really nice.
Ferry to Chiquila (330 pesos per person) + ADO bus to Valladolid (300 pesos per person).
In Valladolid, we booked "Casa Lucia" via Booking. The hotel is gorgeous, with a colonial style, and very close to the ADO bus terminal and downtown. It’s super quiet and clean. There’s a shared kitchen you can use with a fridge, microwave, and water dispenser, plus a big table by the pool and a nice indoor terrace. Breakfast was simple but included. The only small downsides were the tiny room and bathroom, no mirror in the room, and a noisy fan.
Friday, July 10:
Not far from the ADO bus terminal is the colectivo station for Chichen Itza. They offer a round-trip to Chichen Itza with an option to stop at Ik Kil cenote on the way back and then drop you off in Valladolid for 370 pesos per person (Ik Kil entrance included).
For the Chichen Itza visit, we’d booked a tour with a guide often mentioned in groups—his name is Juan Pat. He’s a Maya who lives near the site and speaks excellent French. He reserves spots in advance for you and queues up to be the first on-site. It cost 500 pesos per person + entrance fees. His tour lasts 2 hours and focuses mainly on the main pyramid and the ball court. He’s passionate and fascinating, even if some of his claims, as a Maya, might be a little biased. I think it’s *really* important to have a guide—otherwise, you’ll miss so much. You can contact Juan Pat on WhatsApp at +52 985 121 2381.
Afterward, we went to Ik Kil cenote (showers and life jackets mandatory, lockers available). It’s *very* crowded, but still really beautiful with its lush vegetation.
Saturday, July 11:
Since we didn’t have a car but still wanted to visit other cenotes that seemed hard to reach by public transport, we decided to book a taxi for the day. We agreed on 1200 pesos to take us to 3 different cenotes and wait for us at each one. (To find taxis, just look where they park near the ADO bus station.)
He picked us up at Zaci cenote, which we’d walked to. We got there at opening time and were the first ones there—had the place to ourselves for a while! 150 pesos per person. A pretty cenote in the city center with lush vegetation. It’s a bit like Ik Kil but without the deep cylindrical effect.
Cenote Xcanahaltun: the most beautiful cenote we visited. Entry 250 pesos per person. It’s a closed cenote with a hole that lets light in—a cave-like setting. You can kayak inside. There are little fish at the edge that nibble dead skin off your feet. Since it’s closed, the water is *freezing*!
Cenote Palomitas: entry 250 pesos per person. Another stunning closed cenote, even more enclosed than Xcanahaltun. The hole in the ceiling is smaller, so it was pretty dark when we arrived—kind of an eerie vibe. But when the staff turned on the lights, it looked like a "Gothic cathedral" full of bright stalactites.
Cenote Sac Aua: entry 290 pesos per person. The ticket includes a guided cave tour (tip-based). This cenote is really unique with its central island and way less crowded than Suytun. Just so you know, the water is *really* cold in cenotes. In these three, in July, we had the place to ourselves for a while and never saw more than 2 families at once—so peaceful!
Sunday, July 12:
ADO bus to Bacalar (536 pesos per person).
In Bacalar, we stayed via Airbnb with a host named Luli, who offers several rooms with shared bathroom and kitchen.
The room is nicely decorated in a pleasant setting. It’s ideally located near the lagoon and downtown. The shared kitchen is handy. The mosquito net over the bed is useful because there are *a lot* of mosquitoes in Bacalar. Luli provides a water jug, which is really nice. The only big downside is the lack of water pressure in the shower—we had to rinse off by filling a bucket. Also, there’s no real door separating the room from the bathroom. We never met Luli in person, but she was very responsive via messages. The terrace in the middle of the vegetation is lovely.
From the ADO terminal to the place, we took a taxi for 40 pesos. Since this driver was honest about the price (we’d checked beforehand), we decided to use him every time we needed a taxi in Bacalar. Here’s his WhatsApp: +52 983 184 3585.
Monday, July 13:
We did a boat tour on the lagoon with "Bacalar Francophone Activities." Since we were just the two of us, it cost 3500 pesos. If we’d managed to be 4 people, it would’ve been 1000 pesos per person.
We had a private 4-hour tour on the lagoon with Steeve and his very comfortable boat. He’s from Quebec, so his French is perfect. During those 4 hours, Steeve showed us the lagoon’s iconic spots *and* places other boats don’t go. He told us about the lagoon’s history and gave great tips on where to go and where to eat. As a little bonus, he gave us a video taken with his drone during our swimming break.
Tuesday, July 14:
We went to Los Rapidos by taxi (400 pesos round trip) and entry was 225 pesos per person. It’s *very* touristy but really beautiful. You can eat there (expensive), relax, and go down the "rapids" as many times as you want. It’s worth it if you spend a few hours there. You can’t bring in food or drinks—you leave them at the entrance and pick them up on the way out.
Wednesday, July 15:
On Wednesdays, navigation is banned on Bacalar Lagoon, so we’d planned another excursion.
Visit to Calakmul from Bacalar with ABCtours (WhatsApp +52 983 319 8359).
This agency organized a trip from Bacalar to Calakmul with a French-speaking guide. Communication beforehand via WhatsApp was smooth. Mr. Checo, the driver, and Fernando, the guide (who spoke great French), picked us up on the day. Mr. Checo drove very carefully on the long road and always made sure we were comfortable. Fernando is passionate about flora and fauna—he’s a biologist with a degree in ornithology, so he knows *everything* about animals. The slightest sound or song, and he knows what it is. He’s got an eye for spotting them, from the biggest to the smallest.
During the trip, we stopped at km 27 for a short forest walk, then went to see the two main pyramids on the site. On the way back, we stopped at the bat cave for the magical spectacle of millions of bats flying out at dusk. In the end, we saw or glimpsed (some briefly) spider monkeys, howler monkeys, a toucan, 2 tapirs, turkeys, 2 deer, and lots of birds. If, like us, you’re more into flora and fauna than archaeology, I’d *highly* recommend this agency and tour with Fernando.
It’s not cheap, but the road between Bacalar and the site is *long* (3.5 hours). Price: 3900 pesos per person for 2 (3500 for 3, 3200 for 4).
Thursday, July 16:
ADO bus to Playa del Carmen (614 pesos per person).
In Playa del Carmen, we stayed in an Airbnb. The building is on the town hall square, next to the casino.
The best thing about this place is the *location*—super close to Fifth Avenue (La Quinta). The kitchen is pretty basic, but the fridge works well. There are supermarkets nearby. The rooftop pool is really nice. The two big downsides, though, are the soundproofing (you can *hear* the neighbor’s alarm and all the events on the square) and the *total* lack of water pressure in the shower. We had to fill a trash can with water to pour over ourselves. When we told the owner, he said it wasn’t normal and someone would come fix it, but we never heard back. Based on previous reviews, this seems to be a known issue that never gets resolved.
Playa del Carmen is *very* touristy on Fifth Avenue, but in a fun, musical vibe—we never felt unsafe. There are *tons* of little souvenir shops for tourists on this street. There’s a beautiful monumental sculpture on the beach (the two figures meeting in the air), next to which you can see the Voladores show (men climbing a pole, tying themselves with ropes, and descending headfirst while "flying" around the pole). The show is tip-based and happens several times a day. In our opinion, Calle 38 is prettier than Fifth Avenue—it’s lush, green, and quieter, with the sea at the end. Great for an early evening stroll. We had really good meals at great prices at "El Tio Noy" tacos, just a few meters from Fifth Avenue in a side street.
For souvenirs, we’d recommend going to Walmart instead of Fifth Avenue—you’ll find skulls, tequila, mezcal, keychains, mugs, glasses... at good, fixed prices.
Friday, July 17:
We did the excursion to Isla Contoy. Isla Contoy is an uninhabited, highly protected island. Only 200 people are allowed to land per day on a rotating basis, so only a few companies have permission to dock there. Most agencies subcontract the day to a third-party company.
We booked through VRM (Viviendo Riviera Maya), but it was Ocean Tours Mexico that handled the tour. Contoy is a little paradise. We were accompanied by multilingual guides, including French speakers, throughout the day. Steffy gave us info about the island during a short walk on the marked trails, and Leño Tlatemoa kept the mood up on the boat rides with music and dancing. Isla Contoy is *truly* stunning, and the lunch was delicious: grilled fish and chicken, guacamole and tortilla chips, rice, fruit, drinks (everything is brought and taken back by the guides). The snorkeling part was pretty disappointing if you’ve done it in Cozumel, though. The stop at Isla Mujeres isn’t very interesting either—it’s too short to explore, and the island is *extremely* touristy. Still, the excursion was very well organized, and we had a great day (2970 pesos per person).
Saturday, July 18:
We wanted to go snorkeling in Cozumel but thought the prices from French-speaking agencies were too high. Plus, for snorkeling, we figured we didn’t *need* a French-speaking guide.
So we found a much cheaper solution by taking the ferry from Playa del Carmen ourselves and choosing an agency in Playa. The round-trip ferry cost 663.50 pesos per person. Then we took a taxi to the snorkeling boat (100 pesos). The agency we chose is called Mystic Snorkel—they don’t have a physical office. The tour cost 1400 pesos per person. It was a small boat, but that day we were the only ones, so we got a private tour at the group rate. We stopped at 4 different sites, all very different and beautiful. We saw all kinds of fish, corals, a nurse shark, and turtles. El Cielo, with its huge starfish, is *exceptional*. If you’re going snorkeling in the Yucatan Peninsula, this is *the* tour to do—the other sites are pretty "poor" in comparison.
Sunday, July 19:
Morning dive with Triton Diving. I chose the Cozumel dive option. Great experience.
Booking via WhatsApp was easy. On the day of the dive, Selene, who speaks French, was our guide. She’s *very* attentive to the group’s safety. The briefings are clear and precise. In Cozumel, we did 2 very different sites: the first was a drift dive with lots of life—beautiful corals and fish. The second was a wreck, the C53, a 56-meter boat you can enter. Not much marine life, but a beautiful wreck intentionally sunk for divers—still in great condition. An unforgettable moment. Selene even took videos during the dive, which the club sends you for free afterward. I’d *highly* recommend this club.
Just so you know, in Playa del Carmen, the beaches were full of sargassum during our stay, despite barriers and daily cleanup. Locals told us the problem is getting worse and the sargassum is arriving earlier in the season. Tourism has taken a *big* hit this summer, and they’re wondering if tourism can even survive the sargassum season anymore. A lot of tourists are heading to the islands—Isla Mujeres and Cozumel—to enjoy the beaches, as the west side of those islands is sargassum-free.
Monday, July 20:
Colectivo to Puerto Morelos. First, a colectivo toward Cancun that drops you off between Puerto Morelos town and Puerto Morelos beach (40 pesos per person), then another from that junction to the beach (10 pesos per person).
In Puerto Morelos, we’d booked a room via Airbnb at "Piedra del Caribe." *Best* place we stayed in Mexico. It’s an aparthotel. Our room was ready before check-in, so they let us in early. The place matched the description—spacious, with a comfortable king-size bed. The shower had *great* pressure, which isn’t a given in Mexico. The staff was super friendly and welcoming. They let us use the pool, restrooms, and rooftop shower after check-out while we waited for our ride to Cancun Airport. They even kept our luggage. I *highly* recommend this place.
In Puerto Morelos, there was *way* less sargassum than in Playa del Carmen—it was actually swimmable.
We did the snorkeling tour with the fishermen’s cooperative for 450 pesos per person for 2 hours. The reef is close to the beach (you’re not allowed to swim there), so the boat ride is short. It’s not as pretty as Cozumel, but it’s nice and affordable. On Puerto Morelos’s page, you can also access a small, not-very-well-preserved reef. There’s also a cenote in the sea where fresh water mixes with saltwater—the water is murky there. We had a great dinner and excellent cocktails at "La Choza del Puerto."
Tuesday, July 21:
Wandered around Puerto Morelos (check out the church and read everything—it’s entertaining!), relaxed by the hotel pool, and left for Cancun Airport by taxi (400 pesos) booked via InDrive to head back to France.
Our highlights:
- Holbox
- The whale shark tour
- The cenotes
- The local flora and fauna (so present!)
- Isla Contoy
- Cabo Catoche (except for the snorkeling)
What we liked least:
- The bioluminescence (barely visible despite good conditions)
- The food—we found it not very diverse in taquerias
- The constant tipping
- The lack of water pressure in showers (fixed, wall-mounted, no hose or showerhead)
Don’t hesitate to ask if you have any questions while it’s still fresh in our minds.
Here we go—finally, the big day has arrived! A trip the whole family (my two kids, my husband, and me) had been looking forward to for so long.
To keep it short, we left from Nice, arrived in Namibia on June 25, 2025, and left again on the 21st—four weeks later.
We used an agency for all the camping reservations, activities, and the car rental. At least that side of things was taken care of. Michaël was our contact throughout the planning and the trip itself.
We spent our first night at Londiningi BB. A bit out of the city center but very quiet. The rooms were spacious and clean, and we could eat on-site that evening. Perfect for recovering from the flight.
This travel journal is our second on VoyageForum, following last year’s where we recounted our four weeks in Vietnam.
The goal remains the same: since some members on this site share tips, experiences, and great deals that help us prepare for our trips, we do the same after returning—both to give back a little and in the hope that our experiences might be useful to others in some way.
Our route was as follows: Bangkok, Siem Reap, Krabi, Suratthani, Koh Phangan, Koh Tao, Chumphon, Bang Saphan, Prachuab Khiri Khan, Sam Roi Yod, Hua Hin, Phetchaburi, Bangkok.
Beyond rediscovering Bangkok, our objectives were the long-held dream of seeing Angkor and exploring southern Thailand, much of which isn’t overly touristy.
A quick big thank-you to Barbot, who took the time to answer several of our questions.
12/07/2013
The cheapest flight we found earlier this year was a Paris-Bangkok route with a layover in Moscow for 1440 €, total for two people.
So, this time we tried Aeroflot. Airbus A318 for the first leg, A330 for the second. Nothing particularly annoying to report—the passengers were very calm, the cabin temperature was comfortable, and we had enough legroom.
That said, the quality of the meal trays was pretty mediocre, and the flight attendants weren’t exactly comedians.
We’d like to remind everyone that it’s best to exchange as little money as possible at the airport upon arrival, since the rate is about 5% worse than at city banks.
Of course, we made sure to take the airport exit where you can catch official taxis to avoid getting scammed. So, we queued up, a little lady gave us the ticket, and off we went with the driver.
Generally, this system works well because these drivers are registered, know their duties, and the risks they face if they break the rules. Except that day, right off the bat, we got the scammer of the day. His first move was to snatch the ticket from my wife’s hands—the one you’re supposed to keep in case of a complaint. My husband saw it, but after a full day of travel, we were a bit out of it, and honestly, there was no reason to be suspicious. But once we started driving, the guy refused to turn on the meter. We insisted more and more firmly, but nothing. So, I used the famous method of opening the door and starting to step out of the car. At 40 km/h, that scares the driver more than the passenger. He finally turned on the meter, but that didn’t calm him down—quite the opposite. For the next half-hour, he ruined the ride by demanding extra fees here and there. Having dealt with several scam attempts last year in Vietnam, this wasn’t exactly new, and we were proud of ourselves for staying pretty zen. Still, this guy was a little scary—he was completely wired and aggressive. Honestly, it was hard not to think he was on something. He’d be perfect for a *Scarface* remake. When we finally arrived at the hotel, he followed us to the entrance. We paid the two tolls (25 and 45 baht), gave him the usual 100 baht extra for the ride, and stayed polite but firm. So, meter: 245 baht + 100 baht + 25 and 45 baht for tolls—we paid the exact amount, no way we were tipping this guy. He left furious, but he was already like that before picking us up... Anyway, avoid Mr. Chartree Chidchen, number 089 826 7308, car E2663!
We were so relieved to finally settle in at Feung Nakorn Balcony hotel in the temple district. 42 € per night, great reception, all the staff is friendly. The AC works fine, the bed seemed hard at first but turned out to be comfortable. The hotel is quiet, away from the nightlife, but at this time of year, many places are less crowded than in high season. Even with a nice fish pond and outdoor breakfast area, it’s a decent hotel, though we felt we could’ve found something better.
After a night on the plane, the first afternoon is always a bit of a slog. We napped for a few hours, and when we woke up—guess what—we were starving. We visited a temple across from the hotel (nothing special) and then decided to take the Chao Phraya Express, the river shuttle that serves many piers along the river. It was a really enjoyable experience. The steel gangway wobbles when you board and disembark, the boat sits low in the water, and sometimes you get splashed. During peak times, you’re packed in like sardines, but most of all, there’s that exotic urban landscape passing by, especially the temple rooftops.
At that exact moment, the boat was packed. We didn’t see a ticket booth at the pier, and we tried in vain to pay the few baht for the ride. The cashier on the boat was too busy, and another employee we called didn’t have time to help us. Oh well, we weren’t going to force the issue. Still, this mode of transport is super practical for avoiding traffic, and at the piers, the lines with station names are clearly marked, with colors matching the flags on the boats. Combined with a map like the *Routard* guide, it’s easy to navigate.
We easily made it to the restaurant *Harmonique*, located near one of these piers. It’s a unanimous favorite on this forum, and let us tell you—it’s well-deserved. What a wonderful experience that evening! We only saw the outdoor gazebo because there was no way we were dining inside. It’s not flashy, so those looking for a luxurious setting should look elsewhere.
That night, the staff was a bit slow, and we had to track them down several times to move things along. But oh, my friends—what a feast on the plate! Start with the appetizer platter for two at 250 baht, featuring four specialties, each more tempting than the last, followed by their famous crab curry for 200 baht. There’s *so much* crab in there! The dish is so delicious and rich that when you finish, you feel—how to put it—like it was almost *too* good, to the point where you’re almost put off eating for days. And also, oh yes, we *will* be back. Their satay chicken is just as amazing, and it would be a crime not to mention their generous dessert with ice cream, warm banana, and chocolate, plus their *excellent* almond milkshake.
Later, we took a taxi to Kao San Road, mainly to book a Ko Tao-Chumphon trip for 600 baht per person at the Lomprayah counter. In hindsight, we should’ve booked all three of our trips there right away.
Kao San Road is *ultra*-touristy—better for younger crowds, but it’s still worth seeing. There’s rock ‘n’ roll, hippies, and crowds everywhere.
We walked back to the hotel, and when we got a little lost near a canal, a really nice older Thai man spontaneously appeared out of the night to kindly point us in the right direction.
Finally, a real long night of sleep ahead—we cranked up the AC. Sweet, the vacation has begun!
Hi there,
I just got back from a trip to Sri Lanka from December 18th to January 1st with 2 adults and 2 kids (12 years old).
If it helps, here’s my itinerary.
We left on December 18th from Madrid with Qatar Airways. No complaints. I booked my tickets back in March for 800 € per person. (I flew from Madrid because I live near the Spanish border and was too worried about strikes in France.)
We arrived on December 19th at 4 PM (local time). Before leaving France, I’d booked a taxi through MyTransfer for 59 € to Sigiriya. A van was waiting for us at the airport exit.
A never-ending 3-hour drive to Sigiriya. We stayed at Samana Guesthouse—very simple, clean, with a pool and an excellent Sri Lankan breakfast. Shower and straight to bed.
Friday, December 20th: Beautiful weather, but very humid and hot. We visited Lion Rock (36 € for adults) and then Pidurangala.
I loved both sites—they’re a must-do in my opinion.
Spent the late afternoon by the pool.
Saturday, December 21st: Another gorgeous day. The guesthouse manager offered us a free 2-hour tuk-tuk tour. We first visited a lake, rice fields, the temple, and the Sigiriya market, plus the usual tourist trap—the botanical garden (no pressure to buy anything at the end).
Then we took a tuk-tuk to Dambulla Temple, the Golden Buddha, and the wholesale market.
Sunday, December 22nd: Still beautiful weather. I’d booked a taxi for 8 AM. We did all the long trips by taxi to save time. I’d ask for prices from 2 or 3 WhatsApp taxi agencies 2 days or the day before—super responsive, always got replies within 5 minutes. We headed to Ella (4-hour drive) for 22,000 LKR.
Arrived in the afternoon at Rest Full Homestay—a small, family-run guesthouse. Clean, cozy, and an amazing Sri Lankan breakfast.
In the afternoon, we went to Nine Arches Bridge. It was a Sunday, a Sri Lankan holiday, so it was *packed*—mostly locals and very few white tourists! Even though it was crowded, it was cool because it was all Sri Lankans. We waited an hour for the train. It’s worth seeing, but honestly, I didn’t think it was that amazing.
Then we headed to the station to check if we needed to book tickets for the train to Haputale—turns out, no.
Monday, December 23rd: Beautiful weather. We hiked Ella Rock—a gorgeous trek. The final stretch is steep but shaded, so it wasn’t as tough as I’d read. The whole hike is stunning from start to finish. We saw the train pass twice (one blue, one red) and lots of women picking tea.
After that, we did Little Adam’s Peak. It’s not hard, but it was *packed* with tourists—meh. Luckily, at the top, you can walk a bit farther (down one side and back up) to get some space to yourself.
What I *didn’t* like was the commercial vibe at the big café/restaurant with a pool at the entrance of Little Adam’s Peak. Loud music, all that money being made right next to little souvenir stands run by Sri Lankans or tea-picking women. Felt off.
Ended the day buying souvenirs at one of the few shops we found during the trip.
Tuesday, December 24th: Beautiful weather. Took the train to Haputale. We got to the station 30 minutes before the 9:30 AM train. We could’ve taken 2nd or 3rd class—I went with 2nd (160 LKR per person).
It was crowded, but we managed to get seats—first 2, then 3. Only a 1-hour ride, but I *loved* it—windows and doors open the whole time.
Arrived in Haputale around 11 AM, and the mist was already rolling in.
We walked to our guesthouse, The Mist Holiday Bungalow. Simple but clean, with a great view of the tea plantations. The owner’s wife is Vietnamese and used to work for French tour operators, so her French is still pretty good—helpful for us since our English is terrible. They booked us a tuk-tuk for 4:45 AM the next day (2,000 LKR) to Lipton’s Seat.
Spent the afternoon wandering around Haputale. Not much charm, but there’s a nice fruit and veggie market and a short walk through the tea plantations.
Wednesday, December 25th: Beautiful weather. The tuk-tuk was on time to take us to Lipton’s Seat. We were the first ones there—the sky was just starting to turn pink. In the end, only about ten of us watched the sunrise. The guesthouse had packed us breakfast, and we walked back down (half on the road, half through the plantations). Didn’t see any tea picking since it was Christmas, but the walk was still incredible. We took detours through villages full of kids.
After that, we visited the tea factory. The tour was really interesting, and we took the bus back down to Haputale. Such a great moment—whole families were heading to mass, dressed up and made up. All so beautiful.
At noon, we left for Udawalawe National Park. Taxi for 14,000 LKR. Stayed at River Inn Safari Cottage. *Warning*: It’s the same place as Eagle Safari Cottage. I don’t recommend it. We’d always stayed with families before, but here it was just staff—totally different vibe. The pool was nice but not very clean (water was murky). The bungalow was big and fine, but it was brand new—so new the asphalt floor wasn’t fully dry. It’s in the middle of nowhere, so we had to eat on-site. Couldn’t leave a review on Booking because they never confirmed we’d stayed, and they canceled our reservation the next day.
Thursday, December 26th: Beautiful weather. I’d booked a safari through the hotel for 5:30–10 AM for 54 USD. Honestly, yes, there are a lot of jeeps, but it was great. The kids loved it—we saw everything there was to see.
Left by taxi at 11:30 AM for Welligama (12,000 LKR).
We didn’t stay in Welligama city but at Coconut Beach, between Welligama and Midigama. *Total crush* on the guesthouse: Sky Mountain Café with View. Such a lovely family. The mom makes amazing meals at reasonable prices. The view from the hill over the sea is unreal.
Spent the afternoon walking along the beach.
Friday, December 27th: Beautiful weather. My kids are surfers. Unfortunately, there weren’t any boards their size to rent at Coconut, so we took a tuk-tuk to Welligama Bay (1,000 LKR). They surfed from 8 AM to 5 PM—rental was 5,000 LKR for the day. Meanwhile, we walked the beach and swam. Water was 29°C.
Saturday, December 28th: Beautiful weather, rain from 4 PM until midnight. Same surf day. They were so well-behaved the whole trip, so this was their reward.
Sunday, December 29th: Beautiful weather. Beach day at Coconut. *Warning*: It’s a reef break. For surfers, there are three spots (Coconut Left, Middle, and Right). The boys bodysurfed (with fins) all morning, and at 1 PM, we took the bus to Hikkaduwa.
Stayed at Hotel Universal Beach. Nothing special—right on the water, but the rooms were dark even though they were clean. The manager was super nice, but the rest was meh, and breakfast was mediocre compared to what we’d had before (2 eggs and 3 slices of toast). Plus, it was late—8 AM.
First impression of Hikkaduwa wasn’t great—way too many Russians for our taste.
Monday, December 30th: Beautiful weather. Spent the whole day exploring. Turtle Beach, then the other side of the beach (toward Galle) near the fishing port. The beach there is much wider, with scattered hotels and super quiet. It’s beautiful—I should’ve booked somewhere in that area. Ended up having a great day away from the crowds.
Tuesday, December 31st: Overcast, then beautiful, rain at 4 PM. Had to end the year (and the trip) with some surf. Rented boards for the kids (3,000 LKR per board for the day). Bad luck—the waves were on a reef break but small. Not great for them, but no big deal. They still got out of the water by 2 PM. Walked the beach (which is gorgeous), had a juice, and went for a swim. Then back to surfing in the rain at 4 PM.
Wednesday, January 1st: Left by taxi at 5 AM (18,000 LKR). Flight at 10 AM. Arrived in Madrid at 8 PM.
I could have titled my travel journal like Carmen: "Some trips are born twice." Indeed, we had considered this destination back in February 2020. However, an honest tour operator advised us against traveling at that time due to the climate. So, we gave up and opted for Guatemala instead (see "On the Mayan Lands" on this site).
So, why this title? When I was in primary school, over 65 years ago, the illustrations in my history books (Machu Picchu) and geography books (Lake Titicaca) made me dream, and those images stayed in my mind. It took until 2026 to finally make this dream come true!
We prepared our trip with Tout Pérou, a French-speaking "agency." Everything was handled via email and WhatsApp exchanges with our contact: Laurent, who was both competent, friendly, and full of good advice.
For 200 €, Tout Pérou provided us with drivers and guides whenever we wanted, helped us buy our domestic flights (cheaper when purchased in Peru), booked shuttles between airports and hotels, and got us a discount on the train ride to Aguas Calientes, as well as on the buses between Chivay and Puno and between Puno and Cusco. In short, Laurent took care of all the logistics and the Machu Picchu tickets. It was up to us to book our hotels. Tout Pérou provided a list, but we weren’t obliged to follow it. Another advantage of the package: we didn’t have to pay in advance; we paid the service providers directly day by day.
We didn’t meet Laurent in person because he was on vacation in Europe. Before his departure, he gave us a briefing, provided a summary table with the entire program, the service providers, their phone numbers, their fees, the schedules, and gave us plenty of advice (money, exchange, safety, etc.). After returning at the end of our stay, he kept checking in on us.
Lastly, we had also gathered information from Arnaud Lagadec, who runs a hotel in Cusco and offers tours of the region. He gave us a lot of useful information. Another contact: Thomas Montaigne, very friendly, who runs an agency in Arequipa (Agence Pérou Exclusif).
Day 1 – Paris to Lima
Foreword
I’ll share our trip without any pretension—I don’t have the talent of some contributors on this forum—and I’ll illustrate it with a few photos (taken with an ordinary smartphone). My comments are personal and only reflect my own views. So, please be kind! Feel free to comment on my story as you like, but let’s avoid pointless debates.
Even though we live in the south of the Paris region, true to our habits when the flight is in the morning, we chose to spend the night before our departure in a hotel near CDG and parked our car in a parking lot in Garches. This way, we avoid the stress that often comes with traveling around Paris (accidents, roadworks, traffic jams, etc.).
Check-in and border control went smoothly on that Sunday morning. Our Air France flight was uneventful. In Lima, border control took a particularly long time, and for the first time, we didn’t get an entry visa stamped in our passports.
As planned, a driver took us to the Miraflores district, where our hotel was located. We were surprised by the numerous signs about possible tsunamis, having forgotten that Peru is prone to such events and regularly experiences earthquakes. We’d see the consequences of these during our journey.
Exhausted from the early wake-up, the 13-hour flight, and the 7-hour time difference, we had dinner at the hotel before a restful night.
Note that this day was Peru’s presidential election day. As a result, we weren’t served beer—the sale of alcohol was banned that Sunday.
We did the Langtang trek (hike) from September 10th to 17th, with the first and last days being the trip from Kathmandu and back—so 6 days of actual walking. It’s a fairly well-known trek but certainly not as famous or crowded as those in the Annapurna or Everest regions, which is why we chose it.
In theory, it’s mandatory to have a guide for this trek. In reality, it seems there are ways to bypass the regulations: we met at least two people hiking without a guide—a South Korean, a New Zealander, and possibly also a couple of English women and an American couple, though we’re not sure if they had a guide.
The agency we booked with had told us it was an affordable trek for relatively older people in good shape—which is our case (I’m 72 myself). I have to say upfront that we found it quite challenging, maybe because we didn’t have good weather—it was the end of the monsoon season. To be clear, no matter your fitness level, I’d say doing this trek in the middle of the monsoon season would be suicidal.
Day 1 – Journey from Kathmandu to Syapru Besi
On Monday, September 8th, there had been violent protests in Kathmandu against the government, which had, among other things, blocked access to social media and been accused of nepotism and corruption. There were 19 deaths. The situation was very tense on the day of our departure, Wednesday the 10th. The agency warned us that public transport was very unreliable. So, we decided to take a jeep, at an additional cost of $100 ($160 minus what was already budgeted for the bus).
We left a little before 7 a.m. and it took us a good hour just to reach the outskirts of Kathmandu. Along the way, we saw several houses and vehicles set on fire by protesters.
The road to Syapru Besi is only 120 km, but it’s frankly awful. It’s always narrow, winds through endless mountains, and the shoulders range from bad to confusing to nonexistent. Several sections are just dirt tracks. We didn’t regret opting for the jeep, as we could stop several times at our convenience—if only to let Y (my Thai partner) throw up everything she had. She’d taken her usual motion sickness medication, but the constant turns, accelerations, and braking eventually made her terribly carsick.
In Nuwakot, we stopped for breakfast at a nice little restaurant, Jimbu. It was around 8:30 a.m., and we’d barely covered 60 km. The restaurant has a lovely garden overlooking the Trishuli Ganga, the river flowing down from Syapru Besi. First photo: the river in the bottom right corner, mist and clouds over the mountain on the other side.
An hour later, my second photo: the hills along the Trishuli Ganga. You can see the different crops—lush green rice paddies in the lower right and corn, already yellowed and likely harvested, in the foreground on the left. And of course, the mist and clouds through which you can glimpse the mountain on the other side of the river.
Last October, we landed in Marrakech to spend a few days with family exploring Morocco’s roads.
Transport: a rented Dacia.
Accommodations: small guesthouses.
Our first stop was just a few kilometers from Marrakech, at a lovely house perfect for relaxing and recharging before continuing. It’s called Bleu House, a little paradise on the outskirts of Marrakech. The welcome was very warm, with a beautiful pool and a lovely garden.
Next, we headed toward the Tichka Pass. The road has really improved in recent years—it’s much easier to drive now. No more getting stuck behind trucks, and today, the construction is practically finished.
Morocco has turned green after the recent rains. It’s a joy for the herds and shepherds.
I hesitated about writing this travel journal...
This summer, we only did the classics (the 3 northern parks and Zanzibar) and let a local agency take care of everything from start to finish.
No craziness, no risks, no sleeping under the stars, no self-drive, no venturing off the beaten path, no incidents, and not even any delays in the pre-planned itinerary...
But don’t think we were disappointed!
The whole family (there were 6 of us) came back with smiles and memories of great moments spent together.
So, if you're looking for a "classic" way to discover Tanzania, this is the place to be.
Our 2-week itinerary:
- Arusha (1 night upon arrival)
- Tarangire (1 night)
- Ngorongoro (2 nights in Karatu then Irmisigiyo)
- Serengeti (3 nights in Robanda, Togoro Plains, and Seronera)
- Zanzibar Stone Town (1 night)
- Zanzibar Matemwe (3 nights)
- Zanzibar Jambiani (3 nights)
Come along, I'm taking you to this country where it's so nice to wander and slow down...
This trip was in 2023, but when I wanted to write my travel journal, VF was still closed to contributions...
So, now that I've just finished my Japan travel journal here, I figured it was high time to honor this destination we came back from so enchanted.
Disclaimer 1: This is a written travel journal. There’ll be text! Too much, for some!
Disclaimer 2: This is an illustrated travel journal. There’ll be photos! Too many, for some!
I have to say, every time I try to discipline myself, to keep it shorter, to include fewer photos... I end up adding more. It feels like my dear Aunt Nicole, who exhausted us with her slide-show evenings in the 70s/80s, decided to take her revenge. The upside for you, readers, is that you can slip away anytime without offending Aunt Nicole. I won’t even notice!
Anyway, since I love maps, here’s one to give you an idea of where I’m taking you. As you can see, we only saw a tiny part of Laos (the areas circled in red); we only had 3 weeks for ourselves (my husband’s newly retired, I still work), and we prefer taking our time over rushing around like crazy.
In broad strokes, it was very classic:
First, we “settled in” at Luang Prabang (8 days), because we wanted and needed to.
From there, we took three days to venture a little further north—not far in kilometers, but as we know, distances aren’t just about km!
Then we flew south to Paksé, letting ourselves drift down to the 4,000 Islands while stopping by the pre-Angkorian archaeological sites.
We wrapped up with the Bolaven Plateau.
A few practical notes: We arrived via Bangkok, then took a Bangkok-Luang Prabang flight, having picked up our luggage in Bangkok to check it in for Luang Prabang. No issues—the Bangkok airport, which many of you know, is very well organized.
We got our visas on arrival in Luang Prabang. Quick, but to be fair, we were on a “small” plane, and the big flights had arrived earlier, so we weren’t too crowded in line!
At the end of our trip, we didn’t fly out of Paksé but from the nearby airport in Thailand, Ubon Ratchathani (a 2.5-hour drive from Paksé), then Bangkok and Paris.
You’ll notice we skipped Vientiane to stay longer in Luang Prabang. That said, there’s now a high-speed train between Vientiane and Luang Prabang—good to know—and soon the (Chinese) train will go all the way to Bangkok and even Kuala Lumpur!
With that intro out of the way, let’s dive into the heart of the matter.
To be continued: Slowing down the pace... in Luang Prabang
Les animaux domestiques ont leur endroit réservé.
Certains se mettent à danser dans la rue au son du piano.
2- Around San Pedro
Vila beach
Sunset behind Santiago
The rocks and sea at Ponta Preta
At the summit of Monte Batalha
Calheta
Calheta de Baixo
The beaches just keep coming...
The dunes
The 3 coconut trees, a landmark to find the track
Boca da Ribeira beach
The hills on our right
Ribeira Dom João
Barreiro
The old track
The church in Vila do Maio
The large solidified magma massifs that shape the heart of the island have created a large depression more protected from the sun at its center, allowing the growth of a vast laurel forest, today grouped within the Garajonay National Park, La Gomera’s green lung, which has earned it the status of a World Biosphere Reserve. Its completely European appearance contrasts sharply with the rocky and tropical landscapes of the rest of the island. Thus, the climate varies greatly from one point to another on the island: in summer, you can quickly go from a dry and sunny valley at 35°C to a humid forest area at altitude at 18°C.
On the right, the "welcome marker"—those dates offered everywhere as a sign of hospitality. On the left, a tribute to those stunning doors worn by time, admired all over the old quarters, including the abandoned ones.
Hospitality will often lead you to accept a small coffee, an "Omani coffee," very light, subtly flavored with cardamom, maybe a touch of saffron, and occasionally rosewater.
Here, I’ve depicted a man in the common everyday attire of Omanis: the dishdasha, mostly white (during the week and daytime; colors are more common in the evening or on Fridays and Saturdays). While you’ll see some men dressed in Western clothes, they’re very few. The white dishdasha is truly the shared attire of all men. The dishdasha, which has no hood, is distinguished by a small pom-pom attached to the collar, the furakha, which is soaked in perfume. And believe me, Omanis go overboard with it! "It smells like the pom-pom" is an expression that’s now part of our shared language, my husband and I.
Another must of men’s attire is the kuma, a small round head covering, usually white with brightly colored patterns. The keffiyeh is also worn (but without the cord called an agal in Arab countries), and it’s mostly worn by those with roots in the desert, from what I understood.
And what about the women, you might ask? Some are veiled, some in full black (but not a burka—more like a chador + abaya), due to the influence of Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates, whereas the traditional outfit used to be a layering of very colorful dresses. Most of the women we saw wore neutral clothing, a plain veil over their hair, but with their faces uncovered. We also saw many saris and colorful veils—don’t forget that 40% of the population consists of Indian, Nepalese, and Bangladeshi immigrants, who work a lot in tourism, hospitality, restaurants, services, and construction.
Just to clarify, as a tourist, there’s no pressure to wear a veil, and never any disapproving looks. Of course, you’ll save the mini shorts, plunging necklines, bare shoulders, and midriffs for the hotel terrace—but I’d say that’s the same for men and women, and with the sun being strong, it’s better for your skin too.
Here’s the introduction! In the next post, I’ll tell you about my itinerary, and we can dive in!
Roundabouts are particularly interesting because they feature emblems of Turkmen culture, like the dog, a carpet, the Ahal Teke horse, or Muslim symbols, even though the presence of Islamic artifacts is quite limited.
Last October, we landed in Marrakech to spend a few days with family exploring Morocco’s roads.
Transport: a rented Dacia.
Accommodations: small guesthouses.
Come along, I'm taking you to this country where it's so nice to wander and slow down...