The "Must-Sees" of the American West

Damn, it's so beautiful, even if it's all rocky 🤩

Right now, The Wave is partly in the shade and a bit less photogenic...

A few original striations

Just before Second Wave, we can already see the canyon we’ll use to leave Coyote Buttes North later...

Oh, and I almost forgot to mention that from The Alcove onward, we didn’t run into a single person. When we arrive at Second Wave (N36.99345° W112.00813°), we’re alone again—even though at sunset, this wave is nearly as stunning as The Wave!! Too bad for the 60 clueless folks who wasted their permit’s potential, and lucky for us—we get to soak up this incredible spot to the max!!

The succession of waves is breathtaking with the setting sun!

Just before sunset, we start heading back, stars in our eyes. To do so, we take a small slot canyon that’s completely in the shade. I’d noted other spots to visit in the area, but the late hour won’t let us do more.

The return trip is easy, and when we reach the parking lot, our Tahoe is the last vehicle left. Instead of heading north, we drive further south on House Rock Valley Road, take Pine Tree Road, and set up camp at the intersection with the track leading to Cottonwood Cove. An improvised shower with a water jug, a simple meal of pasta with chicken bits, and then a great night’s sleep to recover.

Summary: 20 km of hiking. An incredible day—by far the best we’ve ever had in the Southwest!! The density of spots per km² is just exceptional, and they’re all so varied in texture and colors. Pure bliss...

Damn, it's gorgeous, even if it's all mineral 🤩

I'm looking for a bit of green and some wildlife, but so far, not much to sink my teeth into . You’ll spot a few bighorns toward the end if you make it that far 😜 !

Is it like this the whole travel journal??? I can tell I’ll be refreshing every hour :P

The hardest part is having to pick only a third of the photos from my personal travel journal, which has 1,000 photos—even though I’d already narrowed them down a lot !! I’m pretty sure the photos will keep hurting for a while !! Thankfully, there were one or two days where the schedule got totally mixed up, otherwise I’d never manage to keep the journal to just 300 photos (the imposed maximum).

It’s gorgeous!🤩🤩🤩

Your photos are amazing, but I imagine it’s hard to take a bad shot of a place like this.😄

At the Needles, there’s a “hamburger” rock formation that’s even more stunning than the one in your photos. I’m curious if you spotted it.☺️

j'ai appris que l'arbuste qui permettait d'y accéder facilement, avait été arraché, par Sedonax

I think that’s really petty. Stopping others from discovering this place isn’t cool—it’s just selfish. Not sharing GPS points or directions is one thing, but actually ripping out a shrub to keep people from getting down there?😠

Carmen, I wasn’t familiar with the Needles burger... So I kinda spoiled my travel journal I must’ve explained myself poorly about accessing that secret spot. The bush wasn’t pulled out on purpose. It’s just that while trying to climb back up and grabbing onto the bush, the roots gave way. He still managed to get out of that tight spot thanks to his climbing skills. No malicious intent on his part...

I must have expressed myself poorly about access to the secret spot. The shrub wasn’t pulled out on purpose. It was while trying to climb back up, grabbing onto the shrub, that the roots gave way. He still managed to get out of that tight spot thanks to his climbing skills. No malicious intent on his part...

Thanks for the clarification—it makes all the difference!😊

I hadn’t heard of the Needles burger...

Too bad, it’s really great.

So... I was the first one to use this shrub, me [:P] (at least among the French-speaking enthusiasts who know each other). It just helps stabilize during the climb. In climbing, we call this a "bombé," a kind of rounded shoulder. Even with this shrub, you still needed some climbing basics.

On the other hand, Guillaume, I'm surprised that the three of you didn't go up, because with a group it's really, *really* easier—even if you still need a bit of climbing skill... Dreamland takes clients there without gear; they help each other out. I’d talked about it with the Boss. The second person gives the first a boost, and the first helps the second up—well, that’s how I remember it. I completely forgot to check higher up to see if there was a way to place a Friend (mechanical cam) and a bit of rope. If I’d known you were going, I would’ve asked you to take some photos at the top. You need a crack between 10 and 40mm, and you use the Friend that fits.

The telescopic ladder is for accessing it from the bottom, not from the top. I’m also surprised you didn’t have the Burger Rock point (it’s on Thewave.info, and I think the GPX track to get there is too), and I have no idea how you ended up above it...

It’s simply stunning, Guillaume... it’s totally worth going back to get your license... all the beautiful things know how to make you wait [;)] It’s clear you made the most of your day , but 20 km in a day isn’t doable for everyone [:/] In the meantime, your photos are absolutely dreamy—thanks so much!

Yves, From up top, it had seemed to us that the base of the wall was too high—around 2.5–3 m—and none of us three thought it would be easy to climb down and then back up. Based on what you’re saying, we were probably too cautious at the time. I kinda regret it now. I just went through all my photos, and I don’t have a single one that shows the detail at the top, which could’ve helped you figure out if you can place a cam. For the access from below, though, I *did* take a photo of where you need to set up the telescopic ladder...[:P]

For Burger Rock, we only had the GPS point, and we took a path way too far south to get there. Yet after Mélody Arch, the access seemed simple by going around a rocky mound via a southeast headland. Then as soon as we could head east, we did. We didn’t get it... Gotta go back !

Thanks Isabelle for your encouraging words! [:)] For the difficulty of the hike, you can limit the number of spots by sticking to those on the main trail (Rock Fins, Ginger Rocks, The Wave, then Second Wave) and skipping The Alcove, Melody Arch, and Burger Rock. I’ll keep entering the lottery to explore the area more, with several arches (Hugh Heel Arch and Moby Dick Arch) and the entire southern sector that I had to skip to avoid rushing through the different spots...

it’s not just a question of height—you can kind of oppose it a bit, I think, by going over the top. But from what I remember, Sunny Stroer told me she went underneath. That actually surprised me.

09/27/2022: Day 4 - Coyote Buttes South - White Pocket

Another insane day awaits us on the Paria Plateau. Well, that’s to be expected—it’s the trip of the Must-Sees! Especially for Franck and Sullivan, who’ve never been to Coyote Buttes South or White Pocket before!

For me, this’ll be my third time at White Pocket after 2015 and 2018, and my fourth at Coyote Buttes South after visits in 2015 (Paw Hole only), 2018, and just two months ago in July. Despite my two previous visits to the Cottonwood Cove area, I still haven’t explored the farthest zone. In 2018, we only had a little time because of a flat tire. This summer, our oldest son’s physical abilities—on crutches with partial weight on his left leg—limited him to hiking 7-8 km a day, which is already a lot !

After setting up the tent again and a pretty simple lunch, we tackle the access road to Cottonwood Cove, which alternates between sandy patches and rough sections. A 4x4 is absolutely necessary, with good ground clearance to avoid scraping the undercarriage.

Half an hour later, we park at the trailhead—or rather, just 50 meters before the parking lot—because I still have a bad memory from 2018 when we almost got stuck in the sand with a Ford Expedition just 20 meters from the lot on a super sandy stretch. I’d rather walk 50 meters than take unnecessary risks!

We start the fun around 9 a.m. and follow the trail to the first teepees, which are characteristic of both the North and South Coyote Buttes areas.



Our first stop is the unmissable Half and Half, a stunning two-toned rock.





And here’s Control Tower, the most famous rock formation along with Half & Half Rock.



There are tons of oddly shaped rocks in different shades. All these formations are quite fragile, which is why the number of permits issued is limited to 20 per day. The views are as spectacular as the rocks themselves.

We then head to the westernmost hoodoo area of the site, down below. There’s even a mini-wave—nothing like the ones from the day before, but still cool!



There are even some dinosaur footprints, and we had the GPS points for them. Next, we decide to go to The Beauty, a rock located 1.5 km further south. It’s not easy to make progress because there are several plateaus. We first move across an intermediate plateau that eventually becomes a dead end unless you dare to climb along a steep cliffside. So we backtrack until we can descend to the lower plateau, and then we can move at a good pace toward The Beauty. The setting of the hike is just amazing...

Along the way, a few rocks are worth the detour!

And finally, we arrive at The Beauty—a rock with a shape, texture, and colors that stand out from everything around it! Gorgeous!!



A shrub survives the drought at the base of the rock.

[....]

This rock is stunning, and the landscape it sits in is just as breathtaking. So much open space all around—we’re loving it !



Then we head back toward the trailhead.





The trail takes us through Rose Plateau, then past two iconic hoodoos, named The Hydra and Olympic Torch—it definitely lives up to its name [:P]!

It’s nearly 2 PM when we reach Tahoe, after about 5 hours of exploring [:)]! After scarfing down a few sandwiches, we head to White Pocket via the direct route between the two areas. The road is rougher, and we cross paths with our first 4x4—a tour operator’s vehicle. Luckily, it was in a section where passing was possible. The last stretch is a steep descent with deep sand, and Sedonax had warned me not to take it the other way to avoid getting stuck.

We arrive at the White Pocket parking lot around 3 PM, without needing to buy any permit—this site is strangely still exempt from permits! And yet, it’s just as impressive as its famous neighbors!

The area isn’t very large, so we split up, each wandering wherever we please. Sullivan takes his drone since the site allows them. Meanwhile, I head toward a slightly off-center monolith because I’d found a cool spot on Bill Belvin’s site called Lace Rock.

You have to climb the rock, and then you reach a wall with thin, lace-like rock formations jutting out. Really unique!





The monolith also offers a different view of White Pocket’s main area!



Even if I’m not sure Lace Rock is worth spending *that* much time on, I still thought the spot was pretty cool.

Once back in the area, I start with the white rock zone, featuring a very photogenic tree,



then I explore the sector where rocks in shades of pink, white, and yellow intertwine with shapes, twists, and striations that are just unimaginable!



You just get the impression of a huge ice cream scoop melting any which way, or even a human brain spread out on a platter...



My favorite rock, and my avatar by the way, is The Swirl !! A photo with me on it to give you an idea of its size! The area all around The Swirl is nice too, with brainrocks—literally "brain rocks"...





We’re lucky to be able to photograph The Swirl differently thanks to a well-placed pool!

After sunset, we stay a while longer to soak it all in! Franck and Sullivan really liked it, but they admit they didn’t fall in love with White Pocket, which for me is my favorite site in the American West, after The Wave, of course!

Instead of camping on-site, we quickly head back down the trail, taking a long detour to the south to avoid getting stuck in the sand—especially at night. On the way, we stop for groceries in Kanab, then grab burgers and all-you-can-drink Dr Pepper at a Denny’s!

It’s late in the evening when we finally find a spot just north of Highway 89, near Churchwekk, to camp and be as close as possible to our next hike, which we’ll start at night with headlamps!

Summary: only 11 and 5 km covered. Coyotes Buttes South and White Pocket aren’t very large sites, but you get tired quickly in Cottonwood Cove because a big part of the walk is through sand. These two must-see spots remain very quiet since they require taking difficult, sandy roads—all at your own risk, as no company covers off-road damage. None... except one... but you’d have to land in Salt Lake City.

09/28/2022: Day 5 - Wahweap Hoodoos - Sidestep Canyon - Colorful Canyon - White Rocks - Sunset Yellow Rock This day belongs to Franck. He’s been dreaming about this hike for months—it combines four spots in one day: the Wahweap Hoodoos, Sidestep Canyon (with its slot canyon), Colorful Canyon, and the White Rocks. We leave the car parked near a reservoir, around the point (37.13141 -111.75620°), at the western end of our loop planned with Franck.

The Wahweap Hoodoos are over 6 km from the trailhead, which is why we set off at night with headlamps. We want to arrive just after sunrise to catch the best light on the hoodoos.

Barely started, we follow a barbed-wire fence until we find a weak spot where, by helping each other, we manage to cross without scraping ourselves or snagging our jewelry.

Then, we head northeast. According to our study of the contour lines, there’s only one tricky part: a canyon we’ll need to descend and then climb back up on the other side.

The descent is trickier than expected, forcing us to take a detour. From there, two options: climb back up via Sidestep Canyon or take the more direct route—a wall that *looks* easy to scramble. We all vote for the direct path, but the rock crumbles under our feet, and we have to help each other multiple times to make the climb safely. The rest of the hike is easy until we reach the Wahweap Hoodoos.

And then—big mistake! Not wanting to get too close so Sullivan could be surprised at the last minute, and forgetting that a scree slope lets you descend the wall directly, we start moving away to find another way down. But that access never comes, and we end up taking a 3 km detour to reach the site. This detour has one upside: it lets us enjoy a lunar landscape...



By 9:30 AM, we’ve already covered 9 km—this doesn’t bode well for the rest of the day...! To make matters worse, a big cloud blocks the sun, making the hoodoos look duller. Still, we enjoy the area and a spot further south with a few two-toned hoodoos topped with "hats."

Luckily, the cloud eventually moves, giving us a few minutes of sunlight before it disappears behind the rock wall, letting us snap some great photos.







And of course, once we’re there, we spot the scree slope that would’ve let us leave the site. Our memory comes back—westusa had mentioned this western access point. The second spot of the day is Sidestep Canyon, with countless mushroom-shaped rocks and a rarely visited slot canyon.





We start with a small detour to see the Stripped Hoodoos,

then enter the crevice, the prelude to a promising slot canyon!

After lunch in one of the few shady spots, we leave our bulky backpacks behind and enter the slot. We move carefully because the site is fragile, and the slightest impact can dislodge crumbly rocks.

It’s not very long but impressive with its intricately carved rocks.



We all love it, and of course, we’re alone in the world—just like the day before! [...]

Nice start to the hike! Didn’t you see an arch in that slot canyon? A few years ago, I saw a photo of a more or less "white" arch, and no one’s ever been able to say where it is. Not even sure it’s actually an arch—maybe it’s an alcove? I’ll send you the photo on Messenger...

Once we exited the canyon, we looked for a spot to climb onto the upper plateau to gain some altitude and get a panoramic view of this mushroom forest.



Franck, who had studied the site in detail online, promised us an amazing day. I think he was right—because the view from the top of Sidestep Canyon is just incredible !!

A quick drone flight for Sullivan, then we move on to Colourful Canyon, a small canyon with some pretty cool multicolored rocks. It’s not the most photogenic area,



but it lets us continue our loop toward the White Rocks. The route is pretty intuitive, and we weave through some really unique rock formations!



At the end of the hike, I’d noted a detour to see Camel Hoodoo, but we strayed from the planned route, and it would’ve meant an extra 3 km just for one hoodoo. Even though Franck and I know this massive hoodoo is worth the detour, we don’t have the energy to push our legs any harder. So we decide to head back to the car. This unforgettable loop still required hiking 25 km. If we’d prepared better, we could’ve avoided that 3 km detour this morning .

Back at the 4x4 around 4 PM, we rush to slip into flip-flops and let our feet breathe. Still no blisters! We do use preventive bandages to stop them from forming [:P]!

To reach our next stop, we take Cottonwood Canyon Road. Around 4:30 PM, while it’s still bright out, we pass the Yellow Rock trailhead, and Franck and I exchange a look.

We both know what the other’s thinking, and we pull over to reconsider the rest of the plan. Our legs are begging for a break, but we figure we might not get another chance to be here with a shot at a sunny sunset despite the cloud cover .

Sullivan’s up for it, as long as the spot’s worth it. Franck and I vouch for it, so off we go to Yellow Rock—chef’s surprise!!!

The hike to Yellow Rock isn’t long, but it’s full of obstacles! First, we cross a forest of shrubs and reeds to reach the base of the rock formation, then climb a rocky scree with about 150 m of elevation gain. It’s sketchy, and it feels like we’re not making any progress... Then, at the top of the plateau, we get a great view of Yellow Rock’s monolith. The colors really pop once you climb to the summit! This late-afternoon light is nothing like what I’d seen in the middle of the day in July. We’re treated to an explosion of yellow, white, and orange hues with an insane view of the surrounding massifs.





Sullivan at his command post, piloting his drone...

With stars in our eyes, after an incredibly discovery-packed day and a solid 28 km under our belts, we head to a campsite in Escalante. Too late for a burger—all the restaurants close early—but not too late for a couple of beers at the local pub. Then, a proper hot shower, laundry time, a huge plate of pasta to recharge, and a deep sleep... because after a few days of training, we’ve planned to up our hiking distance tomorrow...

Didn’t you see an arch in that spot? I’ll send you the photo on Messenger...

No, I don’t remember seeing one. If you send me the photo, I’ll compare it with all the pictures I took along the way—there are tons of them.

Hi Guillaume, Your road trip is a must for those in the know. Thanks for the feedback from a fellow enthusiast. Best regards,

Welcome Fabrice, and thanks for your kind words! 😊

09/29/2022: Day 6 - Broken Bow Arch - Reflection Canyon

It seems like the heat is lingering later and later into September or October. But this morning, at sunrise, that wasn’t the case! At 6:30 AM, the humidity and morning chill jolted us awake from our restful sleep !

Bad luck, because if there’s one day we need to be in top shape, it’s today. After the morning chores—packing up camp and breakfast—we hit the Hole-in-the-Road, an 80 km track that cuts through the Grand Staircase Escalante monument. There are about twenty spots to see along this route, and we decided to go for the most remote ones, at the very end of the track, where the road is notoriously rough toward the finish!

Our first stop of the day is Broken Bow Arch, a massive arch at the end of Willow Creek. It takes us a good 1.5 hours to cover the 70 km to the trailhead. Only the last few kilometers are a bit tricky; otherwise, the HIRR is smooth driving! The hike is only 6 km, so we each take very little water.

The fun starts as soon as we begin descending into Willow Gulch canyon, with the quirky Mortarboard Rock, a hoodoo named after the cap worn by American students during graduation ceremonies.

The canyon is easy to navigate, with a well-marked trail and few steep sections. At this time of year, there’s no water at the bottom of the canyon—not even a pool... Which is fine by us because we make quick progress.

After half an hour of walking and 3 km covered, we spot the stunning and massive Broken Bow Arch!



It’s a good thirty meters wide and tall! Photos don’t do justice to the immensity of the arch amid the red sandstone cliffs.

We head back, and—overconfident—we take a wrong turn at a canyon fork we hadn’t noticed on the way in. On another day, the few hundred meters wasted wouldn’t have mattered, but today, we need to be careful... because we still have a big chunk left to explore!

To reach the trailhead for the next hike, we only have about ten kilometers of track left. But the road quality deteriorates sharply, with lots of loose rocks and boulders forcing us to drive very slowly. Not to mention the infamous Tahoe’s mud flap that keeps catching on every wash crossing . What’s the point of building a 4x4 with high ground clearance if you’re just going to lower the front of the body more than necessary and add a flap!

Anyway, we finally reach the trailhead for the legendary hike to Reflection Canyon. I call it "legendary" because this viewpoint over a Lake Powell meander is 13 km from the parking lot, and I’ve read plenty of stories about hikers struggling—or even getting dehydrated—in the scorching heat. Most people do this hike over two days to enjoy the soft evening and morning light.

Two factors made us consider another option. First, a few weeks before the trip, I saw recent photos of Lake Powell, and they showed that this viewpoint was just a shadow of its former self—unless you fly a drone to gain precious meters in height to recapture the old perspective.

Second, bivouacking on-site and hiking back in the morning would cut into our next day’s plans, which are impossible to do in just half a day. And since there was no way we were wasting half a day hanging around Coyote Gulch, we decided to take the bold gamble of enjoying the sunset at Reflection Canyon and then hiking back that same night—or rather, in the dark...

By late September, temperatures are much more pleasant, and when it comes to packing our backpacks, there are two teams: the "No Fear" team with just one gallon of water split into different bottles with ice, and the "I’m Not Feeling It" team with 6.5 L of water—which isn’t negligible given the fast-paced hike-run we’re about to do! Franck and Sullivan are on Team "No Fear," while I’m more of a "belt and suspenders" kind of guy... Before setting off, we have a light lunch by the car to avoid side stitches later.

We start around 1 PM. The beginning is tough—uphill on slickrock—and we struggle to find the right trail. Eventually, we spot the faint path we’ll follow for most of the way.

We walk at a good pace, around 5 km/h, and with every valley crossing, we take advantage of the downhill to run and tackle the uphill without breaking a sweat—still running.

The landscapes we cross aren’t mind-blowing, but they’re not as dull as I’d read.

Time flies, and our little game is to guess the direction of Reflection Canyon without using the GPS. It’s impossible to imagine what awaits us at the end, and we can’t even see Lake Powell yet.

The last section of the hike requires a GPS—it’s super easy to get lost! We regularly set a bearing to follow so we don’t stray from the final goal, which remains invisible...

Finally, after 2.5 hours of fast hiking, we spot Lake Powell. It’s truly breathtaking!

Climbing up a small hill, we see the famous lake meander, though the angle isn’t the one everyone knows!



Then, we round the cliff, and there it is—the viewpoint we’ve dreamed about, Franck and I...

It’s magnificent [:)], the site is vast, but I have to admit that with the current water level, Reflection Canyon doesn’t give me that "wow" effect. We can’t get any closer to the edge—the slope is too steep...

We spend 1.5 hours there, soaking in the view while lounging on the slickrock to recharge before the sun sets.

Around 6 PM, the shadows stretch dramatically, and the sun won’t be far from setting... Our last photos before heading back: Without a tripod, we decide there’s no point staying longer and that it’s better to take advantage of the blue hour to make progress on the return trip and cover as much ground as possible toward the car! After all, we’re not sure our headlamps will last 3 hours!!

Shortly after 6 PM, we set off, devouring the 5 km of confusing slickrock in about an hour. The twilight deepens, and 2-3 km later, it’s pitch black, and the real challenge begins.

Having pushed the pace a bit too hard, our water reserves dwindle—especially for Franck and Sullivan, who probably have only half a liter left by the halfway point.

We switch to commando mode: Sullivan, our metronome, sets the pace at the front; Franck follows in his footsteps; and I bring up the rear with the GPS, regularly checking we’re on the right track. But with night fallen, what was easy on the way in is now much harder. We keep losing the trail and struggle to find the best path. We’re exhausted, wasting precious meters, adding unnecessary elevation, and getting slowed down by bushes and brambles ...

In short, 3 km from the end, Franck and Sullivan’s bottles are empty , while we still have a good hour of walking ahead, over 30 km already logged, and we absolutely need to avoid dehydration... Luckily, I still have nearly 2 L left, so we share the remaining water to finish the last kilometers of this legendary hike smoothly!

We’re full of energy when we find our beloved Tahoe, and after 34 km hiked in this insane day, we quickly slip into flip-flops to prepare our feast!

It took us 2.5 hours to get there and 3 hours to return—nearly half the usual times I’ve read about. So it’s doable, at least this late in the season. In the middle of July, I wouldn’t necessarily risk it unless I was ready to carry 10 L of water .

To make up for the calories burned, we have pasta, chicken, and a big can of pineapple for each of us. Tonight, in addition to our swollen feet, we’ll sleep with full bellies and a head full of memories...

Showing off with gallons, I had to Google to find out how much that was in liters for the "no fear" team.

In New York, you weren't walking around Manhattan with your gallon of water !? Or did you cancel that trip?

No idea at all—I had a one-liter water bottle 😄

I love the rock formations at Coyote Buttes South and White Pocket. 🤩

Your hike around Lake Powell was stunning—what an achievement! So many kilometers in such a short time. Way to go! 👏

09/30/2022: Day 7 - Coyote Gulch

Our legs feel a little heavy this morning when we wake up, but that’s pretty normal. Now that it’s daylight, we’re discovering the setting where we randomly pitched our tent last night—good thing it was dark! Could’ve been worse, I guess...





After breakfast, we head back onto Hole-in-the-Rock Road heading north. After about ten rough kilometers, the road smooths out.

It takes us a good hour to cover the 30 kilometers to the Coyote Gulch parking lot.

Coyote Gulch is a canyon considered by some specialized sites as one of the most beautiful spots in the Southwest, with its river winding through sandstone cliffs and its mix of waterfalls, arches, and natural bridges. The highlight of this hike is the massive and impressive Jacob Hamblin Arch, nestled in an alcove—at least, that’s what the photos we saw online suggested. There are two ways to access it: a two-day hike via Hurricane Wash (western access) or a slightly shorter hike (eastern access) over one or two days via "Crack-in-the-Wall," a natural crevice in the rock. Most people choose the second option, camping on-site.

During our planning, Franck and I weren’t too keen on weighing down our packs with camping gear, since the loop we had in mind requires climbing up a steep slickrock cliff to exit the canyon and then cutting across to the trailhead. That’s why it’s best to hike light to reduce risks when leaving the canyon, but we knew the day’s hike would be around 25 kilometers.

When we arrive at the parking lot, there are 5-6 cars already parked. We won’t be alone!

We start by packing our backpacks. Along with lunch, some dried fruit, and water, Franck brings his 30-meter rope, and I bring my climbing shoes, which I packed specifically for this hike.

Here we go!

A few weeks before the trip, we saw a post about a stunning "Bend" located just a few hundred meters from Crack-in-the-Wall. We naturally head there, and now we’re standing in front of a viewpoint—something the Southwest seems to have dozens of !



We then arrive at Crack-in-the-Wall.

We use a rope left behind to rappel our backpacks down since they wouldn’t fit through the very narrow crevice that leads into the amphitheater. Good thing we haven’t been overdoing the beer on this road trip—it all fits without a problem!



The plunging view into the canyon is absolutely stunning, especially in the sunlight !

The descent is through soft sand, and we’re glad we’re not doing a round trip—going back up wouldn’t be much fun!



We start by circling this dinosaur ridge with the goal of getting a closer look at Stevens Arch, which we can already see in the background!



Here’s the best viewpoint for Stevens Arch, at the end of the ridge. To get closer, you’d have to follow the wash and then walk along the river, but I’m not sure the angle would be any better...



We then start walking along the wash, occasionally getting our sneakers wet. The sandstone cliffs on either side create a constantly shifting backdrop. We’re not bored as we follow the meanders!



The trail alternates between fairly open sections and much bushier areas that slow us down.

We also have to cross several waterfalls. While crossing one of them, Sullivan slips and loses his Ray-Bans, which fall into the water. After 10 minutes of searching, we can’t find them.

Second waterfall

https://voyageforum.com/images/posts/small/1733170097-08njtyVKFhn5z37.jpg

At one point, we veer off from the main canyon to head to Black Lagoon.

From up high, you better understand where its name comes from, and you wouldn’t even think of taking a dip in that brackish water. Nothing exceptional either, so we head back the way we came. Even though the scenery is stunning, you have to admit that winding over 10 km through the river’s meanders gets pretty long. Not all areas are as open as this one!

To add a bit of variety, here’s Coyote Natural Bridge [:)]



Since early afternoon, the weather has been getting cloudier, and rain even starts to fall just a short distance from the finish. After a few more long bends where it feels like we’ll never reach the end, we arrive at an alcove the size of a cathedral!! The sheltered part at the back must be several dozen meters deep and a good fifty meters high!

We still haven’t seen the arch, the main goal of the hike, but this alcove alone is worth all those hours spent walking...



It’s only 3:30 PM, and we tell ourselves our instincts were right—we wouldn’t have wanted to spend the whole evening and night there. We head into the curve, and Jacob Hamblin Arch comes into view on our right! We didn’t imagine such a setting: to the left, there’s Jacob Hamblin Arch, and to the right, a second alcove even more impressive than the arch, almost as gigantic as the first one, just 300 meters away! It’s magical; we’re speechless...



After a solid half-hour of continuous rain, the weather calms down, and we decide to retrace our steps to the recorded point to exit the canyon. With Franck in the photo, you get a better sense of the cliff heights!! Everything is gigantic around here!



At the base of the cliff, as expected, everything is soaked, and the first few meters on the slickrock don’t bode well. The rocks are slippery. After 30 seconds of discussion, we all agree: no way are we hiking another 5 hours back the other way—we’ve got to make it through here...



I suggest to Franck and Sullivan that I put on my climbing shoes and lead the way. But they’re very confident in their Speedcross shoes, and Sullivan takes the lead. The first 30 meters seem easy, and while I’m putting on my shoes, I see them speeding ahead. I set off after them, and then I see Sullivan frozen in the section where the slope gets seriously steeper. He shouts that he’s stuck and the rock is too slippery on the steep parts. Given the height we’re at, one slip means a guaranteed tumble all the way down... Franck, in turn, gets stuck a few meters from Sullivan, in a section to the left where he thought he could pass. Despite their spikes, the Speedcross shoes don’t have enough grip on wet rock and start slipping. A few meters behind Franck, I ask him to get out his 30-meter rope. I move up to his level and loop it around my neck after shifting my backpack to my front so it doesn’t pull me backward. In the very steep area where my buddies are stuck, my climbing shoes pass easily, and the tips grip the slightest rock crevice. I clear the tricky section without difficulty and reach a false flat with a huge boulder that must weigh a good ton. Perfect for wrapping the rope around and then tossing it to Sullivan. While I brace myself with the rope, using the boulder for security, Sullivan can then climb the steep section without hesitation. Franck can do the same afterward, even though he asks me several times if the rock will hold! He climbs with his butt well back, facing the cliff, and it’s time to trust our gear—if he lets go of the rope, it’s a nasty fall for sure... Once Franck is pulled up to the top, we congratulate ourselves for being prepared with all that gear just in case... The rest of the climb is much less exposed, and we quickly reach the top of the cliff. All that’s left is to reach the parking lot, and we take a well-marked trail. Too confident after our canyon escape, I don’t check my GPS right away. After 20 minutes of walking, we realize we’re actually on a trail leading to Fortymile Ridge, not our parking lot! We turn left, due east, to minimize the detour. The end of the day is long under a gloomy sky. A few breaks in the clouds highlight the canyon. When we get back to our car, Sullivan’s GPS shows 28 km, but I don’t buy it despite the 2-3 km detour on the way back. The planned route for the day was about 20 km, so we must have hiked around 23 km. During the debrief at the end of the day, we all agree on one thing: Coyote Gulch is a beautiful hike in the heart of a photogenic canyon, but its most stunning parts are definitely at the start and end of the hike. The Crack-in-the-Wall section with the descent into the canyon is gorgeous, but the highlight of the day is without a doubt Jacob Hamblin Arch, nestled between two majestic alcoves. This spot alone makes the long, exhausting day of hiking worth it! We head back onto the trail, continuing up Hole-in-the-Rock Road. Further north, the rain was much heavier, and we’re disappointed because we know we’ll have to skip Zebra Slot Canyon, which was on the agenda for tomorrow morning. We decide to head back to Escalante for a good burger at the Circle D and sleep again at Escalante Outfitters campground.

Personally, Coyote Gulch didn’t seem long at all to me (same route as you). I won’t say I *loved* it either—you know how I feel about water ;)—but I thought it was a cool day trip.

On the other hand, 5-6 cars? You got lucky—I had over 20! This was in April 2022.

Trail shoes in general aren’t great on slickrock. I’ve used several pairs of Meindl in the same model, with Contagrip soles that had a very "smooth" tread (I say "had" because they don’t make them anymore—very few lugs and very flexible). Unlike in the mountains, you really want to avoid Vibram lugs in the West in general. If you want to stick with trail shoes, the La Sportiva Ultra Raptors—available in low and high versions—have soles with the perfect tread for slickrock, even when wet. And the ideal ones are those with the red logo under the sole, which means the softest rubber. It’s silly, but depending on the shoe color, the rubber isn’t the same! I have them in low-cut with and without Gore-Tex, and in high-cut too. The "non-Gore-Tex" ones are more flexible and mold better to slickrock on the ascent. But now I’m on my second pair of Lowa Innoxs—super flexible, *very* soft rubber (won’t last 10,000 km on slickrock), with a low but dense tread pattern. They grip *really* well.

For this road trip, as a backup pair for rivers, I had my old Speedcross that I threw away before taking the flight, and some ultra-comfy Meindl shoes with good grip but no protection at all. The material was some kind of chamois leather that I actually tore on the last day in some bushes at Buffington Pockets. A pair of shoes for 140 € that lasted 2 weeks, then max 3-4 times after the trip—ugh...

I’d tried the Sportiva Ultra Raptors and really liked them. Sturdy and comfortable, in a low-cut version. Since I have weak ankles, I wanted the high-top model, but unfortunately, my foot wouldn’t fit (high arches and a very pronounced instep). So, I went with the Meindls instead.

I’ve done 2 trips each time, so roughly 600-700 km of slickrock with lightweight high Meindls. Meindl Response Mid GTX. I bought them again, but they changed the sole to some kind of small oval lugs. They grip a bit less well on steep slickrock. But mostly, they’re less comfortable for me...

I never wear low-cut shoes for hiking. I go through too many scree fields.

10/01/2022: Day 8 - The Volcano - North Caineville Mesa

With Zebra Slot Canyon off the itinerary, the day’s plan is more relaxed, and we take our time over breakfast at the campsite.

Our first stop of the day is a quiet one, often overlooked as a Plan B when Hole-in-the-Rock Road is impassable. Perfect for us—today’s exactly that situation!

The Volcano has the advantage of being close to the famous Scenic Byway 12, considered one of the most beautiful roads in the U.S., and accessible via a trail that holds up well in bad weather.

After a half-hour drive from Escalante, we reach the trailhead for Cosmic Ashtray, the Volcano’s other nickname.

Along the way, we spot some moqui marbles and a cool wave I’d saved the coordinates for so we wouldn’t miss it.

After a 5 km hike, we arrive at The Volcano from above. The crater is massive.

We immediately realize the timing isn’t ideal—the sand dune inside is completely in shadow. While my two buddies head straight left to enter the crater, I take the right side to hunt for a rock Sedonax once captured in some really unique shots from a specific angle [:)]!

Fun fact: Sedonax saw this photo in a ranger’s office about twenty years ago but never knew where it was taken. It wasn’t until a few years back that he discovered the location thanks to new photos circulating online.

From the side, the rock doesn’t look like much—except for the amazing color gradient...!

I eventually catch up with my friends and descend into The Volcano.



No need to worry about entering the crater—the rangers have ground steps into the rock to act as a staircase and prevent anyone from getting stuck inside!



The pristine sand is stunning, and we stick to the edges to avoid damaging the reddish sand dune. This place is nothing like the Great Chamber, where tour operators bring groups to mess around on the dune.

After circling the crater, we head back out calmly to start the return trip.

We hit the road again, first taking Old Sheffield Road, then Scenic Byway 12.

After crossing a pass through a forest, we drive through Capitol Reef National Park with its iconic rock formations!

After a solid 2.5-hour drive, we reach the yellow truck that marks the starting point for our next adventure: climbing to the top of North Caineville Mesa.

The truck was repainted gray to cover up anti-Hillary Clinton graffiti that was everywhere in 2018. To get to it, we have to climb over a gated fence with a new "Private property, no trespassing" sign that wasn’t there four years ago. Our English is a little rusty, but we take the risk anyway...

I tell Franck and Sullivan about Yves, who recently challenged himself to time his climb to the top of the Mesa. Sullivan isn’t tempted by the idea of pushing himself for no reason, but Franck and I are way more childish—total kids [:P]—and we’re curious to see how long it’ll take us to tackle the 320 m elevation gain over just 1.5 km. Plus, it’s a light hiking day, a transition before the big Canyonlands adventure planned for tomorrow.

Off we go, alternating between running and walking. It’s easy to run along the rocky ridges, but way harder when the climb gets steep.

The loose rock sections really slow us down! With every step, we slip and slide backward—it’s brutal. I still take a quick break to snap a photo of Franck struggling too!

As we get closer to the top, the mesas gain more definition—it’s gorgeous, especially with the dramatic sky!

After 28 minutes of climbing, I finally reach the summit. Franck follows close behind—he’d tried a different route by leaving the official trail but didn’t succeed in the end. Once we catch our breath and give our calves a break, Sullivan joins us, and we can’t help but admire the insane scenery unfolding before us!

In the distance, the sky unleashes a massive storm rolling across the plain from west to east.

Stormy downpours are hitting just behind the parking lot where our Tahoe is parked—it’s seriously impressive!

We end up staying up there for nearly an hour, not realizing we could’ve climbed the last rocky section—a few meters higher—to wander around the plateau at the very top. Guess we’ll have to come back!

The sun eventually returns, with clear skies to boot.

Since we’re craving a burger in Moab, we don’t waste any time heading back down, much more relaxed this time, stopping to snap some photos with the lengthening shadows—and even a rainbow!

The mesas are just as photogenic from the summit as they are when wandering along the ridges. What a fantastic surprise—North Caineville Mesa totally lived up to our expectations!



A quick look back, and it’s hard to believe we actually found a way to climb all the way up here.

After another 2 hours on the road (yeah, the Southwest is *huge*!), we finally arrive in Moab to grab a burger at Wendy’s, washing it down with all the Dr Pepper we can handle—same as always.

All in all, even though we had to skip Zebra Slot Canyon (which we’d been dreaming about), this transition day turned out great with two off-the-beaten-path spots. Mother Nature really hooked us up with North Caineville Mesa—today’s highlight for sure!

Hehehe[;)] You’re not explaining it well . No, I did it at my usual pace, so not with a kom in mind, and it was only when I got home that I realized I had the kom on the climb (just like at Hickman Bridge, and in sandals on top of that). Otherwise, I could’ve gone up much faster, with trekking poles and less photo gear. And it was only later (months, years—I don’t even remember) when I saw an American beat my time that I thought about reclaiming the kom, but I never got the chance again. But you’ve gotta go all the way to the top, okay? Don’t stop at the second-to-last plateau! That said, I just checked and didn’t see Sullivan’s time, so either it didn’t record or he didn’t take the right path.

You’ll have noticed I didn’t give you your time…[:P] Just teasing… I figured if you hadn’t had that Achilles tendon issue and if you’d wanted to push the pace, you could’ve done it—especially with proper shoes! The worst part is I’m not even sure about my own time, which must be less than what I said, since I forgot to record it on my phone. I just estimated it by checking the difference between the photo of the truck and the first photo (almost) at the top near the hoodoo. Sullivan hadn’t started his watch because it wasn’t a real hike. Either way, he was a good 5 minutes behind us, just walking…

But you said you didn’t go all the way to the top... Yeah, I only walked—I don’t run. I always have a pretty heavy pack. I was in sandals, so that was in 2018? Can’t even remember, you know better than me... lol

Wow! Amazing vibe with this storm... quite a change from the blue sky ;)

Okay, so I double-checked my stuff to be sure. I actually did it for the first time in 2018 with my heel bursitis, but not in sandals—it was my first hike I was redoing in shoes while recovering. I was with Michèle and Jean-Michèle (who didn’t make it to the top). That time, I took a slightly sketchy route with a climbing move. I did it again solo in 2019 at my usual pace (fast, but not trying to set a record), while Tom waited in the car. He was too lazy ;) That time, I went through a hole under a rock to avoid the climbing move. It wasn’t until I got home that I saw there was a segment on Strava. There are even two segments—one all the way to the top, and another a few dozen meters lower. My KOM was beaten a few months later by an American, and again in 2023 by another guy. So I’ve never gone back with the goal of reclaiming the KOM. I already have good photos, so I’m less enthusiastic... otherwise, trekking poles, a not-too-heavy pack, and it’s easily doable.

Wow! Amazing vibe with that storm... such a change from the blue sky [;)]

Oh yeah! We were really lucky with that!

I did it again solo in 2019 at my usual pace (fast, but not trying to set a record), while Tom waited in the car. He was too lazy ;) This time I went through a hole under a rock to avoid the climbing step.

Did you know you could climb to the summit, or did you discover it by chance?

Yeah, I knew that. I’d read it in a travel journal, can’t remember whose. Or maybe a Facebook discussion? Can’t recall now.

10/02/2022: Day 9 - Canyonlands - The Needles: Big Spring Canyon - Druid Arch - Chesler Park

We’ve got a big day ahead, starting with a 5:30 AM wake-up in Moab. We grab groceries at 6 AM before heading to the Needles Visitor Center. We arrive right at opening (8 AM) to pick up the permits we need for backpacking in Upper Salt Creek to reach Angel Arch.

Angel Arch is the cover photo of *Photographing the Southwest Utah*, 3rd edition—my bedside book. Needless to say, seeing it has been a dream of mine, maybe even my ultimate quest, given how remote it is—at least 25 km from the nearest trail. This hike is impossible to do with family in the summer because of the extreme heat and the amount of water you’d need to carry.

We stand excitedly in front of the Visitor Center desk, Bear Box in hand—a mandatory, odor-proof plastic container required in this bear country.

But we hadn’t counted on Gretchen, the Ranger who greets us. She immediately warns us about the risk of storms later in the day, which could make the access road to the Upper Salt Creek trailhead impassable. Another Ranger shows us the wash that floods easily and asks what kind of 4x4 we have. Once we tell him, he confirms our Tahoe won’t make it. Maps shows 14 km between the wash and the trailhead—adding another 30 km to the 50 we’d already planned over two days. Ugh...

We’ll have to hope the weather forecast is overly alarmist and trust in our lucky stars!

Since the permits are already paid for, we pick them up anyway for the next day, knowing we’ll keep a close eye on the local weather and track any storm activity in the area.

Meanwhile, Gretchen asks what we have planned for today. I show her the map of our combo hike, which mixes two routes usually done in separate days: Big Loop starting from Squaw Flat Campground, an extension to Druid Arch, then Lost Canyon to reach Chesler Park, followed by Chesler Park itself, and finally returning via the northern part of Big Loop—32 km on paper.

Gretchen’s eyes widen, and she tells us it’s impossible to do in one day. We just reply, "We think it’s possible..." As we leave, she shakes her head, probably wondering where we’re from. Consider us warned...

We start at 9:20 AM from Squaw Flat Campground.

A few minutes into the hike, we’re treated to a panoramic view of the rock needles that give the area its name.

The trail then takes us along a rock wall leading to a cirque.



This fairly exposed section gives us constant, sweeping views of the Needles and endless landscapes.

As we approach the southern end of Big Spring, the trail starts winding through the canyons.

There are even a few metal staircases built to help cross from one canyon to another. The kids would love it here...

Crossing over the ridge, a new spectacle unfolds before us. It’s breathtaking!





We then reach the fork leading to Druid Arch. This section is less enjoyable since we’re hiking at the bottom of a canyon with limited visibility, but it’s still beautiful.

Druid Arch is one of the most beautiful arches in the West, probably the most monumental. Nearly 50 meters high, this double arch gets its name from its resemblance to the megaliths of Stonehenge.

We take the opportunity to have lunch on a large natural terrace at the foot of Druid Arch. It’s not just the arch that’s impressive—the surrounding scenery is just as stunning.

We then head back through the canyon in the opposite direction before turning west via Lost Canyon.

At this vast plateau covered in potholes, we cross paths with our first hikers—Americans.

Eventually, we reach Chesler Park, a vast grassy plain with brush at the heart of hundreds of ochre and cream-colored needles and rock spires.



Here’s the wall of needles we saw at the start of the hike, but this time from the other side.

To leave Chesler Park, we take Join Trail, a very narrow crevice where you walk between two towering walls. At the end, you emerge into a bright slit that creates beautiful contrasts.



We’ll come back to this area with our families since it’s possible to do just 18 km by sticking to this zone.

The end of the Chesler Park loop, at the western edge, is a bit less enjoyable for hikers because it follows a 4x4 trail.

I get a little careless with my GPS and we miss a turnoff, adding nearly a kilometer to our route...

It’s already past 3 PM, we’ve already hiked 20 km, but roughly speaking, we still have about 15 km left to reach the parking lot! Yikes, we were a bit too optimistic about our pace, but at the same time, there were so many photo spots...

Sullivan takes charge and starts moving at his famous, almost military pace. We don’t take any more breaks until we reach that plateau, which offers insane views!

By late afternoon, the sky is pitch black in the background! And if the Rangers’ forecasts were right ...

We’re just hoping we don’t get caught in a downpour, because we’re heading straight toward the stormy area!

The end of the hike via Big Loop (North) gets really long, and our legs feel heaviest of all. In the end, after those never-ending last kilometers, we finally reach the parking lot at 6:40 PM—34 km in 9 hours and 20 minutes.

What to take away from this unique combo? For me, I’d rank this hike in the top 3 of the most beautiful I’ve ever done. The day was exceptional in terms of landscape diversity, atmosphere throughout the hike, and difficulty. Gretchen was wrong: this route wasn’t impossible if we avoided the summer heat...

Barely two minutes after taking off our shoes and arriving at the car, a huge storm breaks out. Torrential rain pours down on us. As we leave the Needles, we drive through two spots on the road where we’re *this close* to getting stuck in leftover mudflows!!

Of course, we realize we have to give up on Angel Arch and move to Plan B. I don’t even know a word to describe how we feel—100 times more gutted than gutted... Life is made of dreams, and Angel Arch will stay in that category for now...

We end the evening at a restaurant in Monticello, brainstorming all possible options. We were tempted to spend two days in the Bisti Badlands, but tomorrow, rain is forecast from Santa Fe all the way to Las Vegas. Not wanting to ruin those visits, we finally decide to head to the Cameron area to camp, with the goal of picking up our Navajo permits at dawn the next day. And for the rest, we’ll see in the morning...

Oh, that's too bad about Salt Creek... but it happens often that you have to cancel something... unfortunately. Unless you go in May-June like Philippe, but then the heat is the problem.

Well, next time ;)

Beautiful loop in the Needles. Druid Arch via Chesler Park, starting with a headlamp, remains my all-time favorite hike. And the sunrise light over all those areas was amazing.

Rangers are always the same. They don’t bother to check people’s skill levels. I don’t know if you were already on my FB friends list last year when I did the Subway... The ranger laughed in my face (seriously, he laughed out loud while looking at his colleague in front of other tourists) when I told him I wanted to do it in under 5 hours. He said he’d been there 40 times and had never done it in under 5h30–6h00. The next day, I went back to the visitor center just to shove my phone in his face, showing him my Strava time, and told him to check someone’s level before mocking them. I also suggested he get a gym membership while he was at it... His colleague was dying of laughter, and he was so stunned he didn’t know what to say... A guy in his 30s–40s, not overweight or anything... And every time I went to get a permit for Salt Creek, the ranger did everything to talk me out of going... it’s unbelievable...

Love your story about the Subway hike ! I would’ve loved to see his face...

We’ve got a huge day ahead of us

Like, are there even any relaxed days? I’m in awe of what you guys can handle!

Since we didn’t do any specific training, the first 3-4 days were the toughest—we were pretty wiped out. After that, our bodies adjusted. Still, we’re nowhere near the level of mountain trail runners who, on top of covering long distances, tackle 2,000m of elevation gain, with their knees really taking a beating.

10/02/2022: Day 10 - West Cove - Spencer Trail

As planned, the weather is pretty gray at dawn. Not wanting to "sacrifice" one of the long-awaited must-sees for any of us, we decide to make it a transition and "rest" day, with West Cove—a lesser-known area between Kanab and Page—and the Spencer Trail on the agenda.

Another bit of morning news: Sharon Fredericks, our Hopi guide we booked months ago for our day after tomorrow, drops a bombshell about a death that forces her to leave Arizona today and tomorrow...

Despite several insistent exchanges, she tells us she has no choice but to go but adds that she’s giving us permission to visit the planned sites. Hmm, hmm... Not sure an email authorization would cut it if Hopi Rangers check, so we’ll see tomorrow what we’ll do.

Still planning for the day after tomorrow, we start by heading to Cameron to pick up one-day Navajo permits that’ll be good for two spots.

Then, we tackle the day’s program with West Cove, located on US89 near Paria Outpost. Big mistake on my part—distances that seemed reasonable on paper had us driving nearly 2 hours to get there...

West Cove is an off-the-beaten-path site I’d seen a few photos of in a Facebook group. Access is simple: just park along US89 (N37.10991° W111.92234°), go under a gate (no "no entry" sign), and the approach hike is super short—about 2 km.

The only point I’d noted was a formation (N37.12391° W111.92465°) that looked great in the Facebook photos.

The site is a two-tone rocky area with a few hoodoos and mushroom rocks.





We then reach the mini-mushroom zone that caught my eye.



We manage to get a bit of elevation for a plunging view of the amphitheater.



The loop is relatively quick, so we backtrack to wander through the heart of the badlands.





In the end, West Cove was a bit of a letdown—not quite what we’d hoped for or worth the detour today, even if the site itself is pleasant to visit.