That's Kenya too...

Honest to goodness, Kate, this photo is completely unedited! 😁



I think we’ve stumbled upon the local Don Juan! 😏

And this is just the beginning, Pascale. But take a good look at these blue whistles because you won’t be seeing them again anytime soon 😄

Hey everyone! 😊

So today, finally, I’m gonna tell you about our host Frankie, a lovely 77-year-old grandma.

Truth be told, the first night, after our road trip, we were exhausted.

The second night, after her trip to immigration for one of her employees, Frankie was tired.

And then on the third night, when we got back, Frankie was chatting away with Ruth, her neighbor.

Those two grandmas are just too cute—full of surprises and bursts of laughter as they listen to our daily adventures, like:

"Oh my gooooood, you went to Public Beach??" 😂.

So I went for it: "We’d really love to share a drink with you tonight?"

"Ohhhh really," they say.

Ruth adds, "We could do it at my place," but Frankie replies, "Oh no, it’s too dangerous with the buffaloes" 👻.

Yep, because according to them, in the middle of the night, they can totally turn your car into scrap metal!!

Well, guess it’ll be at our place then 😅.

We pulled out all the stops with what we had: chips, orange juice, rum, and beer.

But they know the French… so they show up with 2 Schweppes 😆.

They’re total "British women," but even though they were born there, they moved here with their parents at age 3 and never left—Kenya is truly their home.

So yes, they live in a wonderful place, except they have 6 kids between them, and they’ve all lived in England for decades!

I kinda suspected it, but now I really believe it—perfect lives don’t exist!

I would’ve loved to spare you my mug (once to say hello is enough in a travel journal 😄), but I don’t have any photos of them without me!

You’ve got a friendly face and you’re always laughing, so no worries!

A beautiful slice of life, and apparently stripes are trending in Kenya this year! The zebras are going to be thrilled!

We've got front-row seats for the animals. I really loved the line-up of hippos taking a nap.

Plus, Solene and Montagnard swallowed a clown, and honestly, I love this warm, fun atmosphere :D

Ah, there you are at last, Joel! You sure know how to keep us waiting 😄

A beautiful slice of life, and apparently stripes are trending in Kenya this year! The zebra’s gonna be happy about that!

And there we go: 🤩! Bruno’s got a great eye 👍

but even his stuff placed on the next table didn’t kill our appetite 😄 (and Bruno, you’re loving this meal, right? 😜)



I kinda skimmed this post earlier—what exactly am I supposed to be loving here? The sequence of photos is really making me wonder

One sec, I almost thought I’d posted in the wrong forum

You never get bored here!

Just a quick question, Pascale: which “other forum” are you talking about?

I would’ve loved to spare you my mug (once to say hello is enough in a travel journal 😄), but I don’t have a photo of them without me!

You’ve got a friendly face and you’re always laughing, so no worries!

I agree too. Otherwise, I can teach her how to "hide"



Sorry, couldn’t help myself

Otherwise, I can teach him how to "hide"



Sorry, I couldn't help myself

If you had followed along, you would’ve given him Laury Thilleman’s head [:P]

If you had gone along with it, you would’ve given him Laury Thilleman’s head [:P]

Definitely would’ve been an upgrade, Kate 😂

One sec, I almost thought I’d posted in the wrong forum

You never get bored here!

Just to clarify, Pascale: which “other forum” are you talking about?

I don’t have a specific name in mind, Bruno—I’m way too young for that kind of thing

Hello Christelle, So, you're starting a travel journal about the journal without telling us... I’m following Bruno’s adventures in Morocco 😄

Quick question for those who use a computer: are my photos still blurry or is it okay?

No, Christelle, your photos aren’t blurry 👍 Speaking of photos, I’ll remind you that I’m waiting for you in this month’s contest... you must have some great shots in your pocket 😄

Here, the only noise is from humans, and I won’t lie—it’s just *so* good 🤗.



I’ll try not to comment on every post, but this is *so* good—the cottage, the animals 😍 Your latest photo is *amazing* 👍

Hello Christelle, So, you're starting a travel journal without telling us... I'm following Bruno's adventures in Morocco 😄

Oh, we missed you too, Isabelle! 😉 You can subscribe to the travel journal section to get an email every time a new one is posted 😊

Hello Christelle, So, you're starting a travel journal about the journal without telling us... I'm following Bruno's adventures in Morocco 😄

Oh, we missed you too, Isabelle 😉. You can subscribe to the travel journal section to get an email every time a new one is posted 😁

Yeah, that's what I should do because I'm completely out of the loop 😅. I also missed the one about Hawaii 😢

Bye bye Naivasha



After that insane party 🥳😂, we’re ready to leave the next morning—even if we don’t really want to leave this paradise. Well, apparently the car doesn’t either: dead battery!

No big deal—after a whopping 3 seconds of deep thought, Frankie calls his favorite mechanic, just 10 km away.

While we wait, my wish comes true: Frankie invites me inside her house:



huge rooms,



stained-glass windows,



exposed beams and artwork everywhere—all created by her!!



And she doesn’t hesitate to take me upstairs, where I discover her "princess bedroom": roughly 50 m², a gorgeous four-poster bed draped in mosquito netting, all overlooking her own "Noah’s Ark" 🐾.

Leaving Frankie isn’t easy, but long live technology! We’ll meet up online because she’s determined to follow our trip—she knows about as much about Kenya as we do about France 😄.

Next up: a return to the capital via another wild road.



And honestly, driving in Nairobi isn’t any more complicated than in Paris.....



except when you hit an ostrich nest 30 minutes from arrival and the rear bumper didn’t *quite* like it!! In my opinion, it’s just some paint chipping, but according to Lulu, the whole bumper needs replacing 😱.

Well, our VISA insurance saved us once. This’ll make twice...........or not 😂.

I see our road troubles left you speechless, but don’t worry—there’s no need to 😢. The rental company told us they’d see a mechanic to send us the bill, and get this: nearly 6 months later, nothing. Zero, zilch, no news at all, and not a single charge on our bank account 🤷‍♂️🍾😄. A real mystery!

We're good here, Christelle, don't worry [;)]

It's the shack that leaves me speechless!

The TripAdvisor forum, Routard, and Petit Futé—based on their opinion

So here we are in Nairobi, returning our rental car as planned—though it’s off to the repair shop now!

The next day, we’re catching the "Manakara Express" at the city station. It’s not exactly a typical train, with its coral-like appearance and charming "iron hostesses" (though this morning, it’s a bit of a struggle to wake up 😩).



But it’s a truly legendary train, crossing one of the country’s largest national parks, TSAVO, our destination for the day.

Fifteen minutes after departure, you’re plunged into endless nature. Vast landscapes stretch out against a backdrop of mountains shifting between light and dark green. And here, it’s not cows watching you pass—it’s thousands of ancient-looking baobabs! Then the train enters Tsavo. Soon enough, from your seat, you spot them in the distance, walking calmly: our first two elephants... but definitely not the last!



Now, it just so happens that not long ago, I celebrated my 51st birthday, and when my favorite husband asked what gift I wanted, the answer was quick: 10 nights in the arms of one of the super-chicos at Tsavo Lodge. Who knows why, but he said two would be enough (what a "cheapskate" 🐀).

It’s basically a tent village, like the municipal campgrounds of your childhood—just a *tiny* bit upgraded 😆: - We’re in the heart of the action, 12 km from the nearest paved road, but there’s electricity and 5G everywhere!



- We’re surrounded by red-billed hornbills, multicolored lizards, whole families of vervet monkeys, and the soaring spectacle of marabou storks in the azure sky.





- A platform lets us admire the animal-filled "bush," which changes hues every hour depending on the sky’s color and the creatures passing through.



- All topped off with a 30°C pool and an amazing buffet where you can eat to your heart’s content!





Not too shabby, right? 😩

The only small issue? Lulu and Cricri aren’t exactly thrilled by the "safari" vibe. We meet tourists from all over the world who often seem pretty self-absorbed. The contrast with the Kenyan staff is striking!



While the former greet you with cheerful "Jambos" ten times a day, our fellow tourists barely respond to our hellos!

Well, you’ll agree with me— that’s not why we’re here. So we’ll catch up with you tomorrow to dive into the full "safari" experience



and not just figuratively—time for a real dip! 😂

Love that you took the train 👍 Just watch out, Christelle—don’t get too used to those lodges and their luxury tents 😄 I’ll be following your Tsavo adventure with great interest—I’ve never been there at all! 👀

Oh yeah, nice taking the train from Nairobi. We’ve never done it, but a friend who lives in Kenya told us the organization was more "Chinese-style" than "Kenyan-style".... Did you stop in Voi, I assume? How did you get to the camp—did they pick you up? I think I recognize the Sentrim, right?

Nice that you took the train from Nairobi. We’ve never done it, but a friend who lives in Kenya told us the organization was more "Chinese-style" than "Kenyan-style"... right?

Oh yeah, Sylvie, good thing we were warned or I would’ve freaked out: they gather us before entering the station, line us up against a wall (about 40 people on each side facing each other) with our luggage in the middle. Then they order us not to move while soldiers pass by with their dogs to sniff all the bags! Weird vibe!

Did you stop in Voi, I assume? No?

Bingo.

How did you get to the camp—did they pick you up? No?

Nope, we booked an agency in Voi we found on Google Maps 😄.

I think I recognize the Sentrim, right?

Bingo again 😄. Looks like you know the area like the back of your hand

SO NOOOW, IT'S TIME TO HEAD INTO TSAVO

And it's Daniel and then Stephen who take us onto the tracks in a Toyota van—once again, pretty much top-tier. And it starts right off the bat, just leaving the station, with an incredible train of ostriches: 2 moms up front, 1 dad following, and about thirty teenage ostrich chicks!!



Then a family of Waller’s gazelles, all ears perked up, watching us pass by.



And I don’t even dare tell you about the giraffes we discovered in "herds," all around us at 360°!

Hey there! 😊

Here, it’s the "short rainy season," and that’s partly why we chose it: we’re not seeing any of the much-talked-about "Kenyan mass tourism." So, every time we cross paths with another vehicle, the drivers show real solidarity, sharing info to spot the animals. But they speak in Swahili, so there’s still a chance they’re sometimes thinking: "Man, my guests today are clueless 🤦‍♂️" 😊.

The best part is when the tone gets high and super excited. Then Stephen hits the gas to head in the right direction. Lulu and I exchange glances, debating whether to ask questions—but in the end, no: the suspense is just too good!

Four cars are already stopped, so you scan the bushes... and find nothing! Eventually, you ask, "So, what are we looking for?" And in a soft, smiling whisper, Stephen answers, "A biiiig cat!" And finally, you see them, lounging around—a mom and her three little ones: a Cheetah Family 🐆

A safari is magical 🧐! You never know what you'll see, but you're rarely disappointed.

You’re opening up new horizons for me, Christelle, with your trip and your way of discovering Kenya!!! I’m not sure if I should thank you or not, since I already had a list as long as my arm [;)]

That Kenyan’s smile lights up the whole page !

This Kenyan’s smile lights up the whole page!

Aaah, I love your comment, Pascale. His name is Daniel. He was our first driver, and he’s just as nice and cheerful as he looks 😊

Tsavo covers 32,000 km², and the landscape changes dramatically in no time. After seeing green plains surrounding the red tracks, Stephen takes us to the top of a viewpoint that’s simply breathtaking.



And as if that weren’t enough, right there, on the side, a huuuge elephant is rubbing against a tree, languidly.



And just as we’ve been watching it for a while, several moms show up on our left...



surrounding a really tiny elephant 🐘



Sure, this one is only a few months old, and it’s amazing to see it instinctively stay right in the middle of its moms!!



After taking the time to savor these dreamy images, we keep driving... while getting thoroughly "shaken like a plum tree." Because yeah, that’s the reality too... when you’ve got a small budget 💰.

Again, a few cars are stopped, and we arrive just in time to spot three teenage lions crossing. But yeah, I’ll admit we mostly saw their backsides.



Next up is the last game drive, as they say here, which starts off pretty badly. 30 minutes before departure, torrents of water come crashing down on Tsavo. 2 PM 3 PM 😱🚗



So we wait with Stephen, chatting over tea, until he finally says: "Okay, let’s give it a try."

The scene is stunning: the tracks are turned into blood-red rivers, the mountains are swallowed by misty clouds, and the green of the vegetation stands out even more.



So yeah, by "local standards," we didn’t see much on this outing. But in the end, isn’t it also a kind of luck to discover Tsavo right after the rain 😊?

If you love those big pachyderms, I’d recommend the book *The Elephants’ Sadness* by Jodi Picoult. It’s a novel with a bit of a thriller vibe, and you’ll learn a ton about elephant behavior and their young ones.

Either way, I’m noting this down because I don’t know about it—I’ve read a few books on elephants, gorillas, chimpanzees, etc., but not this one. Plus, if there’s a plot, I should like it ;)

Awesome, Kate. Thanks for the tip! 😄

And there we go, the safari is over.



Stephen takes us one last time down the track to the exit. But he already knows us, so he gives us a beautiful gift: meeting his lovely little family, just before dropping us off.

(Yep, I’m sick of seeing my mug too 😅)

But we’ll chat by the door because Stephen is fully aware that his home doesn’t quite match the miserabilist view tourists like us have of those poooor Africans. At first glance, he lives in a "castle" set on a hectare of blooming garden, modestly named "Mwazigue Royal Palace." And honestly, I’m really happy for him ;)

He then drops us off at Voi station, where our train to the Indian Ocean is waiting. And here I am next to Steve, our new "buddy": a professor at the University of Mombasa, he’s also a Kenyan rugby player with a 3-year-old daughter. He loves goofing around, and we had a great laugh, but I admit that after 2 hours of struggling with English, I was wiped out... especially since it was 36°C when we arrived 😅.

Now a taxi is taking us to Diani, and right from the start, we’re dazzled: coconut trees, mango trees, palm trees, frangipani trees, all under a sky so blue it’s bursting.

And we arrive at our supposedly modest lodging for 40 € a night... and in our entire lives, we’ve never seen anything so beautiful!!! (Yes, yes, I checked the price three times when we got here! Thanks, rainy season :p).

It’s Olaf, a German citizen, who welcomes us to his home: a quiet guy, the real deal, who barely hears three words from you and already wants to escape 😅. But if you’re looking for peace and quiet, he’s just perfect.

So I called it a house, but that’s not quite right. More like a giant "hut" with a thatched roof, all made of wood, ropes, and curves, overlooking the Congo River.



Olaf lives on the ground floor, while the entire upper floor is reserved for us!



But actually, there are 7 huts here, bought by retirees from all over the world. Let’s just say it really gives you ideas—especially since you can swim here too!



And in the garden, like everywheeeere since we got off the train, an obese baobab: how many Cricris do you think it takes to circle it 😅?



But don’t worry, for us too all this beauty isn’t real life, so tomorrow, we’ll take you to discover Diani 😊.

What a great find this place is! I think you’ve got a real knack for scouting things out.

This trip is amazing! [:)] Did you plan it solo?

For Tsavo, were you in the eastern part?

I just reread your travel journal and I’ve got the answer to your first question! 😊

Here’s the answer to your second question, Pascale 😊

Hi Solene, I’m looking for a Lonely Planet or similar guide for Kenya / South Africa. Do you have one to sell? I’m looking for something less than 5 years old, since notes on lodges and other things change really quickly. Is Kenya affordable to get around? Looking forward to hearing from you, Roger

Hey Roger, Yeah, I do have a paper guidebook, but I’m keeping it because we’ll be heading back to Kenya one of these days. You’ll find tons of second-hand ones on Rakuten, though 😊. As for affordable prices—yes if you take the train, no if you go for a 4x4 with a driver for your whole trip. It’s like anywhere else, really—it depends on how you travel. Have a good evening

So we arrive in Diani on a Saturday, late afternoon, on a loooong little road lined with really high walls: dozens (hundreds?) of huge hotels are just sitting there, but phew, thanks to the vegetation, you can’t see them. Luckily, I was expecting it and had prepared myself because the only cool thing when you arrive here is the multicolored Tuk Tuks that sometimes drive by endlessly 😄



A paradise, then, for fans of luxurious "all-inclusive" resorts—something authenticity lovers prefer to avoid. But we’re convinced you can find sincerity anywhere, and in this country, you don’t even have to look for it!

Of course, you can do tons of outings in Diani, but we just rented a scooter, and that was more than enough for our happiness.

Babeth, the scooter renter 😉

But when so much luxury is drowning in an ocean of poverty, it can attract some dishonesty.

Diani is known for these Kenyans with their relentless (even indecent) propositions! Sure enough, when Lulu goes for a walk, I’m immediately approached by guys offering boat tours.



And him, with his unbeatable charm, got approached several times by young beauties offering massages.



I would’ve expected the opposite, but oh well 😄.

It’s all done nicely, without pressure, but 5 times, 10 times... it’s a parade on the beach as long as you stay there. So to avoid them, tourists stay holed up in their not-cheap hotels... leaving us with almost deserted beaches 😄.

And to avoid getting ripped off all day long, we invented a new life for ourselves: social workers in Nairobi 😜.

Well, that problem’s solved, and it goes down "smooth" because they immediately find it weird—these two white people interested in their lives and their kids.

And that’s how we ended up having some amazing moments with the locals: - Anne the Christian and Lutfia Ali the Muslim, who come over to share their lives on a Sunday afternoon,



- the Kenyan girlfriends who ride camels and laugh so hard they fall over,



- Aïcha, the expert foot masseuse who’s "had it with guys" and now prefers living with her daughter and all her cats 😜



- Nelson, the gardener at an abandoned hotel, who lets us relax in the shade of a palm tree... and who looooves to laugh,



Shoutout to Pascale 🤗

- the locals or Kenyan tourists from Nairobi who come to let loose at Diani Beach, sometimes telling you, "Oooh, I like your bikini" 😂,

- and the icing on the cake: the stunning Samburu in their traditional attire, who always leave me in awe 🤩



And in the evening, when the sun’s setting, whole families come out for a stroll.



For us, it’s mostly time to head to CopaCabana for cocktails called Dawa



and to enjoy some exceeeeellent grilled octopus.



Have a great evening! 😊

Nobody ever looks grumpy in this country!!!

The photo of the Samburu on the beach is gorgeous [:)]

And that beach looks really nice too

And now we’re nearing the end of this trip, and like any self-respecting tourist, we’re moving to face the sea... mostly because I really want to see the sunrise over the Indian Ocean 🤩.

(Just next to "our place," Abou, 4 years old, waiting for his fisherman dad to return)

So we land at Galu Backpackers Ecolodge, at the end of the long road, in a wilder area. And sure enough, when we arrive, we run into 10 totally wild Australians 😂.

But beachfront comes at a price. The outdoors are gorgeous, but after staying at Olaf’s, you get a little shock... especially when you see the view from the toilet 🚽.



The setting is a lush garden with Samengo monkeys, a bar, a restaurant, a pool, sun loungers, and then the beach.



After stuffing ourselves, we go eat and see them coming from the back of the restaurant: the acrobats of Diani. Eight guys of different ages, who, with just their bodies and talents, put on an amazing show.



And even though we’ve seen them several times already, we really never get tired of it. They set up in front of the few tourists lounging on the sunbeds to do their performance. But at the end, instead of passing around with their hat, they just stand there while the vacationers stare at their toes! And I find out that here, like elsewhere, even at backpackers’ places, they’re not allowed to approach!!



The scene of the crime 🤬. Okay, fine, you can’t spend your whole day handing out bills, but in this case, they didn’t even get a smile or a thumbs-up! So let me tell you, after 10 days of thinking I was "sharing," that moment really, *really* got to me!! Unfortunately, like back home, I can’t save them all! So we ended up getting drunk 🍷🍺🍸😆... which didn’t stop me from being up at 5:30 AM to watch the sunrise over the Indian Ocean.

As soon as I step out of the room, I’m stunned: the lit-up pool, the sky over the sea starting to turn red, and right above my head, a tiny crescent moon—the one I’d been looking for last night under the starry sky but couldn’t find!



So I head out to walk on the beach to admire the show: 1 km, 5 km, okay, maybe just 500 m, girls 😅. And there, I discover yet another world—the guys heading out to fish, one of whom starts singing!



And as I’m heading back to the bar, I hear "Careless Whisper" playing in the distance, accompanying the Australians taking an early-morning dip. Another beautiful moment. But when the fishermen’s little boat passes by the vacationers, I can’t help but think how strange these corners of the planet are, where two worlds constantly cross paths... without really exchanging much at all!!

Your sunrises are stunning, Christelle! I think I appreciate them even more than sunsets, actually. Clever move—after seeing your photos, I’m regretting not making the effort to get up a little earlier! We were a bit further north than you (I was curious and checked on maps), and I *think* we saw the acrobats (or maybe not the same ones—I was in the sea, and from a distance, they looked like kids to me).

Okay, fair enough, we can't spend the whole day handing out bills, but in this case, they didn't even get a smile or a thumbs-up! So, I’ll just say that after 10 days of thinking I was "sharing," that moment—seriously—I hated it!!

I feel like I’m hearing myself! When I travel, I really struggle to get past that awkward feeling when I don’t give more than others. Though, it’s not just when traveling—at a red light somewhere in my city, when I don’t always have change or when people pretend to be on the phone while the clown performs to earn enough to eat. Gotta work on that guilt to stop living through those moments [;)]

I have a special fondness for Kenya: My first trip as "independent travelers," my first safari, my first lions and elephants.

We stayed north of Mombasa, around Shanzu, and also discovered that "distance" between locals and tourists, especially on the beaches. But I have great memories of the encounters I had—more than 15 years later, I still keep in touch with some of them.

As for "approaches," we were at the hotel with two young French women who wanted to go out to a "club" in Mombasa and asked us to come along "for safety." They were safe, but I couldn’t stop being approached all night (which, by the way, was magical). I see that nothing has changed…

Alright, okay, we can't spend the whole day handing out bills, but in this case, they didn't even get a smile or a thumbs-up! So I’ll just say that after 10 days of thinking I was "sharing," that moment—seriously—I hated it!!

I feel like I’m hearing myself! When I travel, I really struggle to get past that discomfort I feel when I don’t give more than others. Though, it’s not just when traveling—at a red light somewhere in my city, when I don’t always have change or when people pretend to answer their phone while the clown performs to earn enough to eat. You’ve gotta work on that guilt to stop living through those moments [;)]

Meanwhile, others are holding back from running them over. We reach some kind of balance. [:)]