We leave Svínafell to head toward the Laki route.
The weather forecast is bad, with rain all day that’ll get heavier between noon and 4 PM.
So we make the most of the last rays of sunshine for the day.
Around 10 AM, we reach the start of the track leading to Laki. Since the sky is clear, we take the opportunity to visit Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon, which became famous thanks to a music video by a singer whose name I’ve forgotten.As soon as we arrive at the parking lot at the foot of the canyon, the landscape is stunning, and the colors are amazing: the green of the grass contrasts with the gray and black of the rocks. Sometimes the Fjaðrá River is a turquoise blue—just not today.
Obviously, there are a lot of people, but since everyone is spread out across the different viewpoints, the visit remains very enjoyable.
The trail follows the canyon for a good kilometer, and we gradually gain a little elevation.
The view from the top of the canyon is the most impressive, with its magnificent cliffs, crevices, and the Fjaðrá River running through the center.
Then, we hit the track. It’s raining. First river crossing—easy. As we go on, the sky darkens and the mist thickens. The heavy rain forecasted is confirmed. At the second river crossing, a ford about 40% of the way, the water level is manageable, but there are a lot of rocks at the bottom. We decide to wait for the next vehicle to make a decision, knowing there’s no signal and we still don’t have a spare tire.
A Hilux with a camper shell arrives. Crossing the ford, it gets really tossed around.
With this fog likely to block the five-star view we were expecting at Laki and the rain possibly swelling the rivers and complicating the return, we wisely decide not to continue—especially since the tire plugs might not hold if we get another flat.
No regrets, we turn around and head back to Route 1.
We arrive in Vík ahead of schedule, which lets us get a head start on the day’s plans!
Next stop: Dyrhólaey, very busy, which rewards us with a rather ordinary lighthouse, several arches, and a few puffins!
All in all, there can’t be more than twenty puffins.
Nothing like the spot in the northeast of the island, but we still enjoy it!
But this spot is really worth it for its exceptional viewpoints over two beaches where swimming is strongly discouraged due to treacherous sea currents.
After dinner at an excellent Vietnamese restaurant—where one of the chefs is French and offers great prices for the country—
We then move along a ridge.
Everything around us is green, but the shades of green are so varied!
We never get tired of these landscapes and panoramas—each one more majestic than the last!!
We can’t help but feel regret over the terrible weather for this Þakgil hike... but apparently, Iceland is magnificent in all weather. I’m not personally convinced [:/].
Next, we head to our charming cottage, Mid-Hvoll Cottages, near Vik, which is heated to the max—even in summer—thanks to geothermal energy. We’re forced to step out onto the terrace just to cool off a little...
You can walk behind the waterfall without getting too wet, for a unique viewpoint.
The next waterfall, Skógafoss, is located at the end of a huge campsite. The big plus? For once, parking and access are free, even though Skógafoss is a major tourist site in the South!
A path to the right of the waterfall lets you climb up for a view from the top. After 400 steps, we’re rewarded with a beautiful rainbow.
This path isn’t just for seeing Skogafoss from above—it’s also the starting point for the famous Laugavegur trek. On the way down, we run into dozens of hikers setting off on the adventure!
Walking behind the waterfall, the contrasts of the blue sky, green meadows, and water are super photogenic. A rain jacket or at least a windbreaker is a must to avoid getting soaked.
What a sight, though!!
The trail then leads us to Gljufrafoss, hidden at the end of a small canyon. To get there, you have to hop from rock to rock along the little river, then be willing to get your camera or phone wet for the shot!
Then, just a few kilometers from Landmannalaugar, a small pass gives us a beautiful view of a lake and an extinct volcano, the Stútur Crater.
Some mosses take on an original fluorescent green hue without the sun.
At the end of the long climb, we’re rewarded with some gorgeous panoramas!
Like two days ago, as we approach the summit, it starts raining—but this time, we’ve got our ponchos, which we quickly put on. The reward is worth the effort, with beautiful views of the snow-capped peaks.
But the best is yet to come when we take the shortcut on the way back, plunging onto a ridge trail into the heart of the sculpted, multicolored rocks, right above Bláhnúkur!
We soak in the multicolored viewpoints from the heights,
We can only imagine what this panorama would look like under a radiant sky. Even in the rain, it’s unforgettable!
The colors become more varied as we approach Brennisteinsalda, with gray hues and a few fumaroles reminding us we’re in a volcanic zone.
Brennisteinsalda, in the distance, stands out from the other mountains with its red and yellow colors.
Oh right, I almost forgot—it’s still raining, and our feet are soaked !
Some green rocks remind us of Death Valley in California.
At the summit of Brennisteinsalda, the wind is almost as strong as on Bláhnákur! Despite the wind, we still enjoy the stunning colors of the massif !!
In the late afternoon, we warm up for a good hour in Landmannalaugar’s hot spring. One of the most pleasant of the trip—and free...
Then, another dip in the geothermal springs at Secret Lagoon.
All around, there are pools and fumaroles—pale copies of what you can see in Yellowstone. But it’s still nice to walk around in this environment.
What really stands out in the city is the street art. There are quite a few murals and graffiti decorating various houses.
Next, we visit the third site of the Golden Circle triptych, Þingvellir. This busy spot is known for the Althing, the site of the Icelandic Parliament from the 10th to the 18th century. But really, the main attraction is seeing the boundary between the two tectonic plates, with cliffs and fissures.
The church is closed to the public, but peeking through the windows, there’s nothing remarkable inside.
Our next planned visit is the Hveradalir geothermal area, but it’s a big letdown—there’s almost nothing to see except a few fumaroles...
On the way to Reykjavik, we make one last stop by a lake where Tim and Max have a skipping stones contest
a stroll along the seafront at the foot of a lighthouse,
and especially the geothermal area of Gunnuhver. It’s simply one of the hottest geothermal zones in the region, with temperatures recorded at 300°C. You’ll find mud pots and other fumaroles there.
All this energy is harnessed by geothermal plants built right next to it.
A few kilometers from the new lava field, and as we suspected, the road is blocked, preventing us from getting any closer. No question of breaking the rules, so we turn back and head to the western tip of the peninsula.
and we visit one last remarkable church built from volcanic stone, Hvalneskirkja.
We have lunch in the early afternoon at a Thai restaurant in Keflavik, then wander around the village looking for something to do. Not much to see except for a few murals, a walk along the pier with a nice anchor, and a restored boat.
It’s then time to clean the car, return it, and calmly head to our return flight at 12:30 AM, bound for Frankfurt.
