Love at First Sight in Kenya

Thanks Muriel

Clever, now you’ve got me wanting to go to Kenya. 🤪

- January 25th This morning, Alfred met us up just a little after 10 AM, which gave us some time after our early breakfast. Ben invites us to join him in the courtyard to introduce us to archery. We each take turns shooting a few arrows, with varying degrees of success. Time flies, and it's soon time to head to our next stop. This short stay delighted us, and we hope the next three days in the Maasai Mara will be just as fulfilling. It takes about 2 hours to reach this new stop, and we arrive at Camp Oloshaiki, located by the Talek River, late in the morning. The welcome is very warm, especially from Meissy, who will be taking care of us for the next 3 days. Here, they also speak Maasai. The tents are really spacious, and the setting is idyllic. We're surprised to be alone but figure the other guests are probably out on safari and will return in the afternoon. In fact, we'll realize in the evening that we're the only guests, and only one other couple will be there on the last night. It's true that it's not peak season, but we didn't imagine there would be so few tourists, as Kenya used to have a reputation for touristy safaris, which clearly isn't the case anymore. During the meal on the terrace, someone comes to see us to organize tomorrow's hot-air balloon ride. The meet-up is set for 4:45 AM. After a good lunch and a little rest near our tents, we head out in the early afternoon for our first safari in the Maasai Mara. Pretty quickly, Alfred tells us that a cheetah has been spotted nearby. He doesn’t rush to the area but takes the time to stop and show us the reserve’s rich wildlife. We come across an elephant with "five legs" (according to Alfred).

After a while, and as we’ve seen several vehicles heading in that direction, we arrive at the spot where the cheetah is. We don’t take long to spot it since it’s wandering across the plain, surrounded by several 4x4s.





Off-roading is forbidden, and Alfred makes sure to bend this rule as little as possible, while other guides couldn’t care less—sometimes getting too close to the animal, even though the tourists on board have huge zooms that let them photograph from a distance. We’re lucky to photograph the cheetah for several minutes, and it’s truly magnificent.

While chatting with some of his colleagues, Alfred learns that a leopard was spotted this morning not too far away, and we set off in search of it. Barely 30 minutes after leaving the cheetah, we spot two stationary vehicles. As we get closer, we quickly make out the famous leopard.

It’s also on the move and out in the open.

What luck we have—especially since, for the moment, we’re among the very few observing it. Unfortunately, it doesn’t last long, and soon many vehicles arrive in the area, turning the scene into total chaos with no respect for traffic rules or the animal. Suddenly, we see the leopard get agitated, and almost simultaneously, we spot another animal—quickly identified as a serval—running and jumping, frightened by the leopard’s presence, which had accelerated toward it. Unfortunately, Alfred, trying to get as close as possible to the scene while the vehicle was moving, couldn’t capture any photos of the serval, which eventually disappeared into the vegetation for good. The leopard itself, spooked by a buffalo appearing out of nowhere, vanishes into thick bushes. I completely missed this moment, and it drives me crazy. Alfred isn’t to blame, but I can’t help sighing—scenes like this are so rare. With the number of vehicles chasing the leopard turning into total chaos, Alfred doesn’t condone this behavior and suggests we move on, which is the most reasonable thing to do for the animal’s well-being. The sightings don’t stop there, as we observe giraffes in excellent conditions,



a solitary elephant,

We also spotted gazelles, cranes,

and finally, several hyenas that start to become active in the late afternoons,



some with their young.



The sunset is truly magnificent and we’re absolutely thrilled with this first afternoon in the Maasai Mara. Alfred returns to camp via the other side of the Talek River, which saves us a long trip back to camp. All we have left to do is cross the camp’s footbridge and head back to our tents.

The young hyenas are so cute! 😍

-26 January Waking up was tough this morning after a shorter night than usual. A vehicle picked us up as planned at 4:45 AM, and after collecting another couple from a different camp, we headed to the hot-air balloon departure site. A few raindrops on arrival had us fearing the worst, but it turned out to be a false alarm. Despite slightly overcast weather at the start, the flight took place in excellent conditions. The captain gave us instructions to ensure a smooth flight, and we boarded. The balloon had 4 baskets, each holding 4 people. Surprise: we boarded our baskets in a lying-down position, which required a bit of gymnastics to climb in. We took off just before sunrise in that position, and it wasn’t until the balloon left the ground that we stood upright. Several other balloons lifted off at the same time as ours,

creating a magnificent spectacle as the sun rose. The view from above was stunning, and we truly felt at one with nature—all you could hear was the burner.

Depending on what we spotted, the captain sometimes brought the balloon very close to the ground. We saw different animals: a large group of hyenas near a watering hole, lions, several herds of elephants, and, the highlight of the show, just as we were nearing landing, an otocyon bolting away, startled by our arrival. Like the serval, it was our first time seeing one. We spotted it again a few minutes later from the vehicle taking us to breakfast. The landing was smooth after nearly an hour in the air. This flight is truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience. The schedule was tight, and we were taken to the breakfast spot. Numerous tables and food stalls were set up, and we were offered a glass of sparkling wine upon arrival—hard to refuse in that setting! Breakfast was excellent, and at the end, we were given a certificate for this "feat." Alfred, as usual, was super organized and met up with us as we finished breakfast. The morning safari that followed wasn’t the most wildlife-rich, but we still saw different species: topi, giraffes, buffalo...

We’re arriving at the banks of the Mara River, where every year at the end of summer, the famous wildebeest and zebra crossing takes place—unforgettable scenes, sometimes unbearable, that you might’ve seen in TV documentaries. We spot herons, crocodiles and especially lots of hippos basking in the sun, either on the riverbank or partly submerged.





We’re near the Tanzanian border, and we stop in front of the sign marking the boundary for a souvenir photo—and, well, a quick "technical" break. On the way back, we get to see a few animals: zebras, elands, elephants

and to finish things off, two lions resting under a bush—no chance they’ll move anytime soon given the heat.

We arrive in Oloshaiki for lunch and once again, we park on the other side of the footbridge. After a good midday meal and a bit of rest, we head back out on a game drive, hoping for some interesting sightings—especially big cats. After a few interesting but not exceptional animals, we finally come across the scene that will make our afternoon. Several vehicles are stopped, which suggests something exciting. Indeed, we quickly spot several lions scattered over several dozen meters, some moving,

others lying in the grass.



We don’t know where to look first!

Cameras are clicking nonstop. For nearly an hour and a half, we stay to watch them in exceptional conditions.

One moment, we think they’re eyeing a nearby herd of buffalo,



before realizing that three of them have set their sights on two warthogs nearby. The lions line up for battle, and you can almost feel an attack coming—but then, for no clear reason, they abandon their prey. Despite that, we had an incredible moment,

with a rare closeness to the big cats,

some of which passed just centimeters from us.





We wrapped up the afternoon peacefully, without any other extraordinary encounters. A few days before our trip to Kenya, I’d been chatting on social media with one of the Camp Oloshaiki team members, Kemboi. After checking my messages, I realize it’s actually Meissy, and I mention it to him during the aperitif—he confirms it.

- 27 January After Charlotte on the 22nd, it's Anny's turn to celebrate her birthday. The night was particularly eventful—after a beautiful storm yesterday evening, a torrential downpour with constant lightning and thunder lasted for over an hour and a half, making us worry about the river rising and keeping Charlotte and me awake for a while. The camp has flooded several times during the wet season, and we can imagine a worrying situation. Sure, the water level has risen since yesterday, but we're far from any risk of flooding—the rains in the wet season are nothing like what we just experienced in terms of duration. The main thing is that this morning, calm has returned, and the sun is slowly making its appearance again. However, some areas are quite muddy, so we'll need to be careful. Today is a non-stop day since Alfred decided to bring a picnic to eat during the safari. This morning, we're heading to a part of the park with more relief, less crowded, and somewhere we haven't been before. Once again, Alfred is informed about a cheetah in the area. After a few minutes of searching, we actually find the animal lying under a bush. It doesn’t seem inclined to move, so after a few minutes, we decide to continue on our way. Nearby, we spot a beautiful eland.

Shortly after, what we feared happens: Alfred gets caught off guard by a particularly muddy path, and our vehicle gets stuck. Attempts to free it prove unsuccessful. Fortunately, we’re equipped, and Alfred grabs his boots and shovel to try to dig the wheels out—but nothing works, and it’s another failure. Luckily, the area is fairly busy, and we have a tow strap for this kind of situation. A passing vehicle helps us out quickly, and we’re able to get going again, being even more cautious. While we were stuck, Alfred mentioned that lions had been spotted just a few dozen meters away. Sure enough, we quickly arrive at the spot and find a group of about ten lions lying under some bushes. Though a few are moving around, most are fast asleep, so there’s no point in lingering. A few minutes later, we see some elephants,



some young hyenas, and, most excitingly, a group of giraffes—including two calves putting on a show and passing right by us.

We watch them for long minutes, amazed by the spectacle.





Alfred was determined to find us some ostriches, and we soon spot a large group. But just a few meters away, a new cheetah is lying in the grass.



Like the previous one, it isn’t very active, but the viewing conditions are much better than earlier. After this, we go to see the ostrich group up close—absolutely stunning to observe.

We continue on our way and spot zebras, hartebeests, gazelles, warthogs, and an eagle.

The search for new big cats is unsuccessful, and by late morning, we return to the spot where we saw our first cheetah. There’s no one else around, and the animal is still there, just a few meters from where it was resting this morning. At this hour, we’re completely alone, and the viewing conditions are much better than this morning. It’s not very active, but with a little patience, we manage to get some good photos.







We’re near the river, and once again, we spot hippos before crossing the bridge over the water. It’s now time to find a spot for our picnic. A few dozen meters after passing a herd of buffaloes, we stop on higher ground, giving us a view to spot any animals in the area.

The meal prepared by the camp is truly hearty, and we’re loving every bite. After eating, we take a few souvenir photos since these are our last hours with Alfred, whose company has been absolutely delightful throughout the trip. Then, we head out for one final safari. During these last few hours, we spot elephants several times



(one of them passes just a few centimeters from our vehicle!),



as well as giraffes, a secretary bird,



and impressive herds of buffalo.







After this last safari, we return to camp a little earlier since Alfred didn’t take a break. It poured at the camp during the day, and the surrounding areas are soaked. At dinner, as expected, the entire camp staff surprises us for Anny’s birthday (she’s tearing up) and brings out a cake, with Alfred joining in, singing and dancing. Meissy feeds Anny a huge piece of cake, and everyone’s laughing—she nearly chokes! Such an amazing memory! Alfred stays with us to enjoy the cake together.

- January 28 to 30 Sadly, the safari part of our trip ends today, and we have to catch a bush plane at 11 AM from the nearby airstrip. We say warm goodbyes to the Oloshaiki team, and Alfred drives us to the airport. He waits until our plane takes off before heading back to Nairobi. Once on board, one of the passengers realizes they’ve lost a piece of luggage. Instead of going back to their vehicle to look for it, they search the plane, and all the bags have to be unloaded from the hold—obviously with no luck. After nearly 15 minutes of fussing, the couple’s guide arrives with the infamous suitcase, which had, of course, been left in the car. Some people really aren’t the sharpest tools in the shed...

We make two stops during our flight: one in the Maasai Mara and another in Amboseli, where we fly over marshes with dozens of elephants cooling off, while the rest of the park looks completely dried out.

The weather is a bit overcast, and we don’t spot Mount Kilimanjaro, which isn’t far but is hidden in the clouds.

We arrive in Diani a little after 1:30 PM. A driver from Siri Ya Kenya is waiting for us to take us to our hotel, the Nomad, located right on the beach where it’s at its most beautiful. We arrange to meet the driver in three days around 1 PM to take us back to Mombasa Airport. We’re welcomed by Ali, who, after a welcome drink, shows us to our family suite overlooking a garden with lounge chairs, which opens directly onto the beach.

We spend the rest of the afternoon relaxing, swimming in the sea, and strolling along the beach—a routine we’ll repeat over the next few days. In the late afternoon, we explore the hotel grounds, which are quite extensive, to check out the gym (where Juliette and Charlotte will work out the next two days), the restaurants, and the little shop where we find the perfect souvenirs to bring back to France.

The restaurant is truly excellent, and we joke with our waitress during dinner about our room number, 22 ("two two," which we turn into "toutou"). This leads to an explanation of what "toutou" means in French. She adds that "chicken" in Swahili is "kuku." As always, the vibe is fantastic.

Our three days in Diani fly by, and we feel the need to take it easy after 10 pretty active days.

- January 31st We spend our last morning, first lounging in our deck chairs in front of our suite,



then, starting at 10 AM (we have to check out by then), by the poolside. After one last cocktail (a good excuse, we still have some small change left...), we go to get ready, take a shower, and the driver arrives right on time. It takes us about an hour to reach Mombasa Airport, where we have a flight to Nairobi at 3:45 PM. The airport is small, and domestic flight formalities are extremely quick. We arrive in Nairobi at 5 PM and collect our luggage in 10 minutes. Our concerns about slow procedures, like we experienced on the way there, turn out to be unfounded, but the wait is long before our international flight at 11:20 PM. Nairobi Airport is oddly designed—once inside, the space is very limited, and there’s no shopping in this first area. Since we’re checked at the entrance, we can’t come and go as we please. And since our flight is in 6 hours, we can’t check in yet. We eventually manage to find some seats to sit down and wait for check-in, which finally happens not too late. After completing the formalities, we go eat to pass the time and spend our last shillings. Unlike on the way there, our flight leaves on time, and we arrive in Paris as scheduled. All that’s left is to pick up the car and head back to Rennes, where we have lunch before continuing to Finistère, arriving in the afternoon.

This marks the end of an extraordinary trip—one we won’t forget—and it ranks in our top 3 most beautiful journeys, and number 1 for wildlife sightings. The itinerary was perfectly balanced, and we wouldn’t change a thing about the program. Maybe we’ll explore some of the less-visited northern parks on our next trip...

Until next time for another adventure.

Jacques

Hi Jacques,

Thanks for the whole story. And for letting us relive that special East African vibe.

Best, Puma2A

...

Thanks Jacques, it's always a pleasure to revisit these safari countries 🙂

Thanks Alain I need to take the time to read your travel journal on Tanzania Jacques

Thanks Muriel!

Thanks Jacques for this beautiful travel journal. You were really lucky with the animals.

Thanks for this travel journal.

What a wonderful trip, Jacques, thank you so much. Stunning wildlife photos, bravo! 🙂

Thanks Jacques for this lovely travel journal!

Thanks Carmen! We really didn’t have a single dull moment. Jacques

Thanks Pascale!

Thanks Nathalie!

I haven’t even left for Tanzania yet, and Kenya is already calling to me... Thanks for this travel journal—I’m noting the stops for next time.

And kudos on the photos! !

Bravo and thank you, Jacques, for this travel journal that made my trip so enjoyable!

Thanks Manu, and have a great trip in Tanzania! Jacques

Thanks Sylvie! Planning a trip to Kenya soon? Jacques

Thanks Sylvie! Planning another trip to Kenya? Jacques

We were there in October 2025 https://www.routard.com/forums/t/safari-au-kenya-en-quatuor-octobre-2025/481554?u=karen56 and Ben and I were actually just looking at flight tickets for maybe September 2026 😉.....

When you love something... I’ll go check out what beautiful things you saw last year right away. Jacques

Great job on the impressive number of successful animal photos.

Thanks Joel!