hi
Even if you don’t want my opinion on Hlane, I’m gonna give it to you... if that’s okay?
Hi Michel,
I’m open to all possible tips!
Actually, you’d already given me your opinion in the thread I started:
https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10798295;a=10798295
But I really appreciate this new, even more detailed opinion, complete with photos. Thanks a lot!
We should arrive at Hlane around noon, coming from St Lucia. So we’ll have the afternoon to do a drive in the park before heading to Kruger the next morning.
I’m picking up my travel journal again after neglecting it lately due to lack of time. Thanks to all of you for your contributions—it’s great to be read!
Day 5: Hluhluwe Game Reserve and arrival at Mkhaya Game Reserve (Eswatini)
We woke up at dawn this morning to arrive just after opening at the entrance of Hluhluwe. We slept well and are ready to go, despite the slight disappointment of the previous day at Imfolozi.
Let’s just say we’re keeping our fingers crossed since Imfolozi is supposed to be the more wildlife-rich part.
The welcome committee is impressive: should I go or not? [:)]
Including some baboons a little further on.
We saw very few monkeys during our stay in South Africa—apparently, there used to be many more. Along the roads and trails, we had some amazing encounters, like this large herd of elephants below the main road.
They’re just below another herd of zebras with their young.
We were lucky enough to come across a white rhinoceros mom with her baby. We were all alone—it’s worth noting that the park isn’t very busy in the off-season. We turned off the engine and admired the scene for a good fifteen minutes.
Hluhluwe is truly a beautiful park—quite mountainous and very green at the end of February.
We have to leave Hluhluwe around noon because we need to be at Mkhaya in Eswatini by 4:00 PM.
In just 6 hours, we spotted: 15 white rhinos, a herd of buffalo, a herd of elephants, and another of zebras, baboons, warthogs, impalas, and nyalas.
In short, we’re so lucky!!!
Because, just before leaving the park—bingo! [:)]
To the right of the track, 9 white rhinos!
On the left side of the track, a well-occupied mud wallow with a cluster of buffalo and 2 rhinos right in the middle. I didn’t know the two species mingled like that.
There are some really young ones in the group.
Last portraits before heading off to devour a well-earned picnic in the parking lot.
Then we’re off to Eswatini, heading to Mkhaya Game Reserve—a reserve we booked because it specializes in rhinos, which are an endangered species. We had no idea we’d already seen 24 rhinos by then
But no big cats to our credit yet
The drive and border crossing went smoothly.
Here we are at the meet-up point set for 4 PM in front of a local grocery store.
We had booked the 24-hour package with arrival/departure at 4 PM, but there’s also a package with arrival at 10 AM.
We had no issues on the road in Eswatini—the drive was smooth, though you do need to stay alert, like in South Africa, for pedestrians, potholes, and animals on the road.
That said, it was lucky we’d printed out the routes we took beforehand because the GPS didn’t work at all in Eswatini (and sometimes in South Africa too).
Our ranger picked us up right on time: there are 12 huts at Mkhaya, but only 4 were occupied during our stay. We were the only French people there.
Why did we choose Mkhaya?
Two main reasons: the rhinos, of course, and the camp.
The huts are semi-open with half-walls.
Basically, you hear all the sounds of nature at night and can see animals wandering in front of your hut.
We love it!
The hut is really pretty, spacious, and without electricity (lantern lighting).
As soon as we arrived at the camp, we immediately spotted a rhino and her 18-month-old calf.
They’re kept nearby under supervision.
The little one is precious—it’s the reserve’s newest arrival.
During our first sunset drive, we only saw guinea fowl
and a group of giraffes with their young.
Back at camp for dinner around a fire.
We were treated to a performance of songs and dances by the women of the camp (they’re all women, by the way, except for the rangers).
It was a really lovely evening and will be a great memory of our stay in Eswatini, despite our lackluster dancing skills
The huts are semi-open with half walls.
Basically, you hear all the sounds of nature at night and can see animals wandering in front of your hut.
We loved it!
One of my most memorable experiences in South Africa was spending the night in the Mkhaya huts...
The feeling of sleeping outdoors, hearing all the sounds of the reserve...
But paradoxically, we were more afraid of the small animals (like the ones that climb up the mosquito net ) than the big ones...
"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux."
Marcel Proust
Thanks for joining me in SA! [:)]
No need to be brave, I promise.
The bed had a mosquito net.
The hardest part was getting the big bug out of it at bedtime [;)]
The night was good—too good, actually
We slept like logs.
After the evening by the fire, we crashed hard.
During the night, I managed to open an eye—or rather, an ear—to listen to the sounds of Mkhaya at night.
It was quick but intense [:)]
The rest of the day was filled with several safaris.
The reserve seems small. If you're looking for a Noah’s Ark-style reserve, this isn’t the place for you.
We mostly encountered two species, plus a few nyalas, impalas, and a crocodile.
First, white rhinos (we didn’t see any black rhinos, even though there are supposedly some at Mkhaya).
From what I remember, at least 7 rhinos in one day.
Unlike the ones in South Africa, these all still have their horns.
Armed guards patrol the reserve and keep watch.
They’re magnificent animals with a really calm demeanor.
Though I have to say, we didn’t see them doing much...
And then there were the giraffes—tons of giraffes.
Sometimes, it felt like we were seeing double.
Or even triple.
Always more.
We did a walking safari late in the morning (originally planned for early morning, but it was cut short because it was really hot).
It’s really cool to stretch your legs and get up close to the animals.
Walking among giraffes is pretty amazing, even if they’re a bit skittish
I think it’s Agnès who’s a big fan of giraffes. She’s in for a treat here! [:)]
In the morning, we head back to camp to enjoy a hearty breakfast, prepared with the embers from the night before.
The camp, by daylight, is just as beautiful, and the animals are right nearby.
Overall, Mkhaya was a huge hit.
Logistics and camp organization could’ve been better, but it was still a wonderful escape.
You really feel at peace and immersed in nature. Sleeping in the open hut was a magical experience.
Thanks, Christelle, for this lovely gift for my 50th (originally, it was supposed to be a night in Wadi Rum in Jordan, but we had to cancel the trip due to the ongoing conflict).
Thanks Christelle for this lovely gift for my 50th birthday (originally it was a night in Wadi Rum in Jordan, but we had to cancel the trip due to the ongoing conflict)
A lovely gift indeed—from what I remember, access to the reserve isn’t cheap...
For Wadi Rum, we almost could’ve crossed paths—I was in for two nights in the desert myself...
But it’s only postponed
"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux."
Marcel Proust
Hi!
Night at Mkhaya (which means "home" or "your home" in Swazi Zulu. Ekhaya = at home).
Did you notice the small wall and the little gated door?
At night, hyenas very frequently wander through the camp.
Don’t worry!
A hyena can’t jump.
The wall and the gate are enough.
That’s the ranger’s answer to friends who were woken up and a bit uneasy when they heard and saw the hyenas at night! 😊
I got to see a black rhino up close—
Mbali
(“flower” in Zulu)
A walking approach to a group of rhinos at close range
And a white wildebeest
Plus a meal in near darkness
Just the two of us along the dried-up river
Mkhaya is still a great memory
Thanks
Thanks Christelle for this lovely gift for my 50th birthday (originally it was a night in Wadi Rum in Jordan, but we had to cancel the trip due to the ongoing conflict breaking out)
A lovely gift indeed—from what I remember, access to the reserve isn’t cheap...
For Wadi Rum, we almost could’ve crossed paths—we had two nights in the desert lined up...
But it’s only postponed
Hey Bruno,
We also had a two-night package planned, right at the very start of the conflict.
Jordan is still at the top of our list—postponed for us too.
I got to see a black rhino up close
Mbali
("flower" in Zulu)
A walking approach to a group of rhinos at very close range
And a white... wildebeest
And a meal in near darkness
As a couple along the dried-up river
Mkhaya remains a great memory
Thanks
Giraffes and white rhinos for us.
We didn’t manage to spot a black rhino among the forty or so rhinos we saw during this trip.
We left Mkhaya at 4 PM and didn’t dawdle on the way since we had to reach Hlane before the gate closed at 6 PM. Despite some GPS issues that weren’t working, we found our way using the printed route we’d prepared.
The drive went smoothly—the road was paved, and the locals were friendly.
We arrived well before closing, with no issues except for a few cows on the road.
The welcome at Hlane was really warm—it felt great.
Hlane doesn’t always have the best reputation on forums because it’s a small reserve that some feel is too much like a zoo. We’d initially chosen Hlane to do the rhino drive and try to spot them on foot. But since we’d already had amazing rhino sightings—including on foot—at Mkhaya, we decided to go for a sunrise drive at dawn the next morning instead.
Tonight, it’s time to relax: dinner at the buffet by the watering hole. The experience was… unique. [;)]
It was a bit crowded, which was a change since we’d been pretty isolated so far this low season. A busload of French tourists arrived at the same time as us. They were *loud* in the restaurant, and the conversation was, well, *crap* all around. Poor things had picked up some bug as soon as they landed in South Africa, and the trip was dragging because they kept having to make bathroom stops. That was the main topic of conversation, and it totally put me off group travel for good.
The buffet was nothing special—no dessert—and pretty pricey for local standards (15 €).
But at the watering hole, it was a whole different story—rhinos and hippos putting on a show! They were on the other side of the bank, but it was still cool to watch. Plus, in Eswatini, they still have their horns.
We headed back to our hut in the dark, trying not to trip over the wildlife that had settled in for the night.
Our cabin, right near the watering hole, was rustic—no electricity—but totally fine, with a cute little terrace. The lantern lighting gave it a nice charm.
Once again, off to bed early because tomorrow’s another safari day! !
This morning, we meet up with our French companions again, but we’re put in a second vehicle with foreign tourists.
Off we go for the Sunrise Drive.
We’d hesitated about doing it because it was pricier than the ones offered in Kruger Park, but since we were already there, it would’ve been a shame to leave Hlane without taking advantage of it.
We start by coming across a large male elephant.
He’s really impressive.
We quickly realize that Maxwell, our driver-guide, is a true pro.
Super attentive, he gets us as close as possible and positions us perfectly.
Later, we’ll spot more elephants.
The vegetation is very dense and lush.
It’s really pretty, but it makes it hard to see the animals in these conditions.
Suddenly, Maxwell slams on the brakes
He just spotted two lions lying in the grass right by the track, even though they seem to be playing hide-and-seek.
We only see one because the second is completely hidden on the left.
The guide tells us we’re lucky.
According to his info, there are between 1 and 10 lions in Hlane—it’s not very precise
What can I say about this encounter other than it was an incredible moment.
I had high expectations for leopards, my favorite feline.
But lions—it’s magical.
There’s such power, such strength—it’s hard to describe.
We were right next to them in a completely open vehicle, but they didn’t pay us any attention.
After a while, Maxwell radioed the second vehicle so they could enjoy the moment too.
The felines stayed until our male elephant got closer.
They got spooked and bolted immediately.
So, who *is* the king of the animals???
Those little white grasses in front of the lion are pretty, but they’re a nightmare!
They’re taking over everything and slowly killing off the animals’ food sources.
Hlane lost a lot of rhinos because of them.
In conclusion, you can't really compare Hlane to a park like Kruger.
We loved our short stop in this park—it let us get up close to our first big cats.
At no point did we feel like we were in a zoo, even though the park doesn’t offer the same vast expanses as Kruger, of course.
Coming from St. Lucia, it was perfect—right in the middle.
Going the other way, depending on what you see, you might not have the same experience.
Either way, we’d happily come back.
As mentioned in this travel journal, wildlife sightings are really a matter of luck—being in the right place at the right time.
hey
You got it all...
a stop on the way to Kruger from St Lucia...
Cheap
Nice
okay... the food isn't great, true... and the bus isn't ideal...
We see rhinos...
and there? Isn't that a lion?
This sunrise drive at Hlane was amazing. I’ve always been convinced that the elephant is the true king of the savannah! And I love the vibe of the room with the kerosene lamp lighting.
While opinions on the reserve vary, you all seem pretty unanimous about the restaurant [:/] At least we know not to expect gourmet cuisine.
We booked the two self-catering cottages (Nyala and Liphiva), which are, apparently, near the waterhole. Were you staying there? I’m thinking it must be nice to have a little coffee on the terrace in the morning with a view of the waterhole.
I think we’ll do the rhino drive to maximize our chances of seeing them up close. Ahhh, I can’t wait, I can’t wait, I can’t wait!!!
We didn’t get a chance to enjoy our terrace.
We stayed in a self-catering bungalow—I think we had Liphiva.
I can confirm they’re really close to the watering hole.
You don’t have a direct view from your bungalow because of the vegetation and trees, but it’s just a 1-minute walk away!
There are chairs along the watering hole so you can admire it.
No lighting, though, so once night falls, you can’t see a thing.
As for the restaurant, it’s just that the value for money isn’t great.
It does the job for one evening.
Our explorers are right—
The two chalets are a bit off the beaten path.
You can make a fire; they provide some wood.
Braai or just for the ambiance.
Originally, it was only candles, and you needed a headlamp to eat dinner.
Usually, the staff puts on a little show.
This Lion's Head seems to be a unanimous hit! ... now we just have to hope the weather's on our side.
especially the last bit where you have to scramble a little.
That’s kinda what worries me since I don’t scramble with the same ease as you do ... but I’ll probably come back to it in a few weeks when I fine-tune my itinerary.
On to Pascale’s Kruger (if I followed correctly)
Si tu diffères de moi, mon frère, loin de me léser, tu m'enrichis (Saint Exupéry)
Lion's Head seems to be a unanimous hit! .... just hoping the weather will be on our side.
especially the last bit where you have to scramble a little.
That’s what’s worrying me a bit because I don’t scramble with the same ease as you
... but I’ll probably come back to it in a few weeks when I fine-tune my itinerary.
On to Pascale’s Kruger (if I understood correctly)
Kruger is up next with an entrance via Malelane Gate [:)]
And there we go, leaving Hlane after one last look at our lovely bungalow.
The border crossing goes smoothly, and we’re back in South Africa.
We’re happily driving toward Malelane Gate, our entry point to Kruger National Park. We can’t wait!
We planned the trip this way to end on a high note with the legendary Kruger.
The weather’s still sunny and warm, with no rain.
At the counter, the welcome is friendly.
We’re told some trails are still closed, including in the south, due to the terrible floods in January.
We suspected as much, and it’s confirmed.
Sure enough, as soon as we leave, almost all the trails are blocked and impassable.
We’re limited to the main roads.
It’s off-season, so there aren’t crowds—it’s not too bad.
For wildlife spotting, it’s not really an issue in the southern part of the park.
Near Malelane Gate, it’s a real show.
We come across a lioness right after the entrance.
She’s wearing a tracking collar.
We wait, but no luck—she doesn’t budge (almost tempted to honk ).
And here are some impalas: we’d seen them before, but not this many until Kruger.
Impalas are truly magnificent animals.
It’s the season for little ones, like this baby elephant.
We’re staying in the south since we’ll spend the night at Berg-en-Dal.
The wildlife spotting continues...
We’re passing by the spot where we saw the lioness again.
She’s still there and hasn’t moved.
According to social media, she’s not in great shape at the moment.
In the background, a second lioness.
It seems like it might be her daughter.
She’s well camouflaged and quite far away—too bad she’s not asleep.
Not far from Berg en Dal, we see two cars stopped.
The occupants are on the lookout.
They’ve spotted an impala carcass in a tree and are waiting for its owner.
We’ll wait a bit, but nothing in sight.
We’ll mark the spot to come back early in the morning.
For now, it’s time for Berg en Dal and a grand arrival at our bungalow—because when we closed the car, an alarm went off.
We really loved this camp—it’s perfectly located for wildlife sightings.
The bungalow was great: spacious and clean.
We also recommend the camp’s restaurant.
Full from a mojito and a good burger, we head to bed, already pumped for the next day.
Just to note: we took anti-malaria treatment during our stay because of the areas we visited (all moderate-risk zones) and since it was the rainy season.
Worked perfectly for both of us—no side effects! [:)]
