Kenya February 2020: From Tsavo to Samburu via Meru National Park
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Translated into English.

Original post
SY
Good evening everyone, I hope you're all doing well despite this very unusual time… Here’s a new travel journal to get you back on the Kenyan trails.

It was a really great idea to buy those flight tickets to Nairobi back in December. When Benoit suggested this new safari in February, I hesitated a little (very little): it was the season with particularly high temperatures, and the short rainy season in November/December had been very heavy, raising concerns about the state of the tracks… Given the current situation, no regrets, of course… We quickly organized the safari with our usual guide, and we booked the accommodations ourselves directly. (If we’d waited just a few more weeks, we might’ve regretted it…)

For once, we were able to leave from the airport near where we live (Lorient - Lann Bihoué), which is really convenient: no driving, no parking… We left home at 2 PM on Tuesday, February 18th, and arrived in Nairobi at 6 AM the next morning—perfect. (With a layover in CDG, of course 😉) Upon arrival, after a forehead temperature check by airport staff, we got our visas very quickly (forms filled out before departure). The customs agents congratulated us on our passports full of Kenyan stamps… but we still had to pay the 40 € for the visa.

All that was left was to collect our luggage, and we’d be ready to leave the airport shortly after landing. But there was a small issue: the baggage conveyor belt was broken… Eventually, the suitcases and bags were brought out by hand… Hakuna Matata, as they say here—no problem, as long as they’re all there. Benoit sent a message to Félix, our guide, to come meet us in the airport parking lot. After catching up with our respective families, we set off toward the Mombasa road, heading to Voi.

Traffic in Nairobi is still as heavy as ever, and the pollution is very noticeable (cars, but also cement factories…). The current lockdown has changed things. On social media, Mount Kenya and Kilimanjaro seem visible from Nairobi now!…

The first stop on this safari was a place we hadn’t visited before: the LUMO Community Wildlife Conservancy lumoconservancy.com/. It’s a small reserve located west of Tsavo West and near the Taita Hills. The reserve is managed by the local community, and entry fees are lower than in Tsavo’s national parks. We had initially planned to spend three days in Tsavo East, but since the accommodation wasn’t available for that long, we ended up choosing this option, which turned out to be a great discovery. Since the reserve is small, I think it’s hard to spend more than two days there. The advantage is that, since it’s not a national park, activities like walks or night safaris can be offered.

Alright, here are a few images to set the mood.







Elephants, but also hartebeests and lots of giraffes in a light we really liked.







MU Muriel18 Globetrotter ·
Hi Sylvie

Just back from a trip, full of amazing experiences. Plus, in February... I'm packing too 😎. Muriel
RJ Rjulie95 Globetrotter ·
Just before closing, of course I'm in! It'll brighten up our days :) Is it hot at this time of year?
RO Rouquine38 Globetrotter ·
I’m joining you all too—so lucky to have gone to Kenya just before lockdown 😎. Thanks for letting us dream a little, Sylvie 😉.
JE Jety34 Veteran ·
Hi Sylvie,

I’m also setting off at the start of the trip to make sure I don’t miss anything—I’m following in your footsteps, or rather, your wheels. Such great vibes with all that lush green vegetation and those dramatic skies—I love it. And after that, quickly on to the next! Cheers, Yolande
BL Blesl Veteran ·
Another one for you, Sylvie!

I'm on board now, and determined not to get off until the end of the trip so I don’t miss any of your great photos or your always-unusual safari.

Take care!

BL
PY Pygmalion19 Veteran ·
Hi Sylvie,

Any big space for a lost safari-goer, please? Sure, my travel bag isn’t too heavy since I’m bringing all my Field Notes and a few photography technique books on this trip. Just to keep the conversation flowing and peaceful with Bernard 😎.

Take care
JE Jety34 Veteran ·
Sylvie,

I’ll be reading over Yolande’s shoulder and can’t wait for Samburu. That park was our best memory of Kenya (after the Masai Mara last time, of course). Lovely vibe in the photos (felt by a total newbie!). Jacky.
SY Sylvie56 Veteran ·
Hello and a big thank you to all of you for your encouraging messages! Sorry for the rather "pole-pole" pace of this travel journal, but work hasn’t been lacking for me these past few weeks... Félix would be thrilled to know you’re all willing to hop into his vehicle (even with lots of luggage like Eric) to join this safari. Stuck in Nairobi, he’s really worried about the current crisis and the future of tourism in Kenya.

A little reminder for those who didn’t follow our previous journal (*Kenya Off the Beaten Path*): in our couple, it’s the opposite of Yolande and Jacky’s dynamic. My husband is the photographer, and I just observe... Though when it comes to putting together the journals, I still handle the photos—otherwise, since Benoît is such a perfectionist in that area, you wouldn’t see much! 😉 Honestly, this wasn’t the safari where we made the most stunning wildlife sightings. The heavy rains of the past few months have made the landscapes incredibly lush, but the tall grass made spotting animals tricky. Still, we often reminded ourselves that it was great for the wildlife, and that’s what matters. Just imagine—on top of everything, the current crisis is giving all these animals a chance to thrive without us... We’ll keep beautiful memories of this "pre-lockdown" safari and the feeling of having been privileged once again to witness this wild nature.

Alright, we’re heading back to Lumo Conservancy with a presentation of our chosen accommodation, which is right at the top of that hill.



It’s Lion’s Bluff Lodge—if you love great views, check out their website... (the view with a lodge). There are two types of accommodation: the lodge (14 rooms) at the summit and a camp with only 4 bandas called "Leopard Lair," located a bit lower on the hillside. We had booked at Leopard Lair and really enjoyed the welcome. We were alone—it’s the perfect spot for a small group of friends or family. The view is slightly less spectacular than at the lodge, but on a clear day, you can see Kilimanjaro. We’d love to go back for two nights to enjoy the activities on offer (like a bush walk or night game drive). A little practical tip for those planning to go (yes, I *do* believe we’ll reschedule a trip someday): if you book at Leopard Lair, you don’t need to check in at the lodge. We didn’t know that, and the track to get there is pretty steep and rocky.

We were a bit tired from the trip, and the weather was overcast, so we didn’t take many photos of the place—what a shame!



The view from the lodge



The view from the kitchen/dining area of Leopard Lair









The view from our banda

On our way back after the late-afternoon game drive, we had an unexpected sighting (though apparently not that rare in this area): a pangolin strolling along the edge of the track. Unfortunately, it disappeared quickly into the tall grass, and the surprise plus the low light meant we didn’t get any decent photos. Still, I’ve picked out two for you.



SY Sylvie56 Veteran ·
The next morning, we head back down into the valley.



Kilimanjaro lets itself be glimpsed through the mist.



We meet the giraffes again, including some very young ones.





A very chatty southern ground hornbill.





The queen of the place soaking up the morning sun.





MA Max68 Globetrotter ·
Great,

I’m happy to follow along again! 🙂

Long live travel 😎

PS: I still can’t decide between Kenya or Tanzania… Tanzania or Kenya 😉

Kenya seems more varied in terms of landscapes, but maybe I’m wrong…
SY Sylvie56 Veteran ·
Hi everyone,

I forgot to answer Régis’s question. Yes, January-February is the hottest season in East Africa. That’s why I was hesitant to go back at those dates since I hadn’t handled it too well the last time. This year, though, it was honestly manageable with temperatures dropping a bit at night, which made it easier to rest. The first night at Lion’s Bluff, they even slipped a hot water bottle into the bed. That must be one of their usual and nice services, but we quickly took it out.😉
AL Alexval2 Veteran ·
I loved your previous travel journal, and I'm diving into this one—great photos already, I really love this kind of light!
SY Sylvie56 Veteran ·
Welcome Jean-François! I don’t think we can say that Kenya’s landscapes are more varied than Tanzania’s. Tanzania also has many parks, and you can find an immense variety there. We’ve visited the northern parks once and were delighted by the wildlife sightings. The reason we keep returning to Kenya is that we’ve found a way of traveling there that suits us, along with places and people we love to revisit. I also think our budget would be higher in Tanzania. I don’t want this travel journal to turn into another discussion on this topic (there was already a long one in my previous journal). I’d like this one to stay focused on Kenya. I suggest travelers who particularly love Tanzania start their own thread to share their experiences in this beautiful country. I also highly recommend the site "Bernard et sa blonde" photo safaris in Tanzania and beyond safari-tanzanie.fr, which is fantastic in its new version and a goldmine of information.
SY Sylvie56 Veteran ·
Karibu! Welcome to Mathieu and Valérie. Dreaming about future plans doesn’t hurt right now!
JE Jety34 Veteran ·
Hi Mathieu,

Thanks for the kind words from a lurker about our experience in the Masai Mara. I won’t clutter Sylvie’s journey any further—she’s taking Yolande and me down the paths of a distant and unforgettable past toward Meru and Samburu. Best regards, Jety34.
PY Pygmalion19 Veteran ·
Hello, hello,

Lumo is a small park, sure, but quite beautiful with some really interesting wildlife. Did you see the honey badger? Congrats on spotting that cat lounging in the grass with its chest up—such a sweet image, just how I like them.

I’d also definitely recommend checking out "Bernard et sa blonde"’s site photo safaris in Tanzania and beyond safari-tanzanie.fr—it’s fantastic in its new version and packed with info.

And let’s not forget the travel journals from all those hardworking travelers who, right after their trips, share valuable and varied insights about Kenya with our readers. Just to name one: "From Old Pejeta to Tsavo West"

" https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=9855279;search_string=Kenya 😎.

But the others are just as fascinating for their different perspectives.

More to come, more to come!
BL Blesl Veteran ·
Hi Sylvie,

You’ve truly shared some stunning Kenyan landscapes with us. And those rare photos, like the pangolin—even if it didn’t strike its best pose, what luck! And let’s not forget that luck is earned, especially on safari. It means being attentive, focused, persistent, quick to react, and knowledgeable.

Thanks for sharing all these wonderful moments!

Take care and stay safe!

BL
SY Sylvie56 Veteran ·
Good evening, Yes, Eric, Lumo Conservancy and the Taita Hills are small parks, but we really found them interesting. No honey badger (we only saw them in Amboseli and Botswana), but seeing a pangolin was a first for us! 🙂
SY Sylvie56 Veteran ·
Thanks Bernard, The pangolin, even if the photos don’t do the encounter justice, will remain a highlight of this safari. I think it’s these fleeting moments that make game drives so special.

A few last images from the Lumo Conservancy before heading to Tsavo East, about an hour’s drive away.

An immature goshawk (we’re debating whether it’s a Dark Chanting Goshawk or a Grey-winged species...)





A Secretarybird lost in the tall grass



Secretarybird taking flight







Impalas well hidden in the tall grass

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