I’m sharing our three-week trip to Japan from late October to mid-November 2025. There were four of us—my partner and a couple of friends.
I’ve traveled often with my friend Christian (Bolivia, Argentina, Costa Rica, Namibia, Laos), but this time our partners joined us.
The rough itinerary:
Arrival in Tokyo. Visiting Shinjuku/Shibuya districts + day trip to Kamakura
5 days in the Japanese Alps, from Matsumoto to Kanazawa (via Kamikochi, Hirayu Onsen, and Takayama)
5 days in Kyoto
Nara, Osaka, Koyasan
Return to Tokyo (Asakusa district), with a day trip to Nikko
We booked our flights well in advance (9 months ahead): the flight cost 1086 € per person. Compared to over 2000 € if we’d booked for the same dates just 3 months prior.
For accommodations, we mostly used Booking.com. The onsen was booked via Japanican, and in Kyoto, we stayed in an Airbnb.
We also made 5 train reservations a month in advance on Klook or directly on the train’s website.
Day 1: Departure from Brussels (October 24, 2025)
Early morning takeoff at 6 AM to Munich (1.5-hour layover) with Lufthansa, then a 12-hour flight with ANA, arriving the next morning at 7 AM at Tokyo Haneda.
Day 2: Arrival in Tokyo
Airport formalities were quick. The eSIM we bought before leaving activated as soon as we landed (10 GB plan with Saily—more than enough for our mobile internet needs, mainly Google Maps and Google Translate).
We’d received 4 ICOCA cards from our neighbors, which we loaded with 15000 ¥ each.
We took the Keihin train, then the Yamanote Line. It’s easy to navigate since everything is in English, and each station is announced on scrolling displays in English too.
We got off the Yamanote Line at the station just after Shinjuku because it’s easier to exit that massive station with our luggage. So we ended up in Shin-Okubo, right in the Korean district.
A 10-minute walk took us to Villa Fontaine Hotel. A great hotel, well-located north of the Kabukichō district. The room even seemed bigger than we’d expected.
It was 15°C, but it rained—and kept raining on and off all day. Belgian weather, basically.
We went for a walk in Shinjuku Gyoen Park. Not as pretty in the rain, but the big greenhouse was interesting.
Then our first ramen (hearty and for 1000 ¥—pretty much the price of all our ramen during the trip).
We headed back to the hotel since check-in was after 3 PM. Shower and relax before going out for dinner.
Dinner was barbecue at Shichirin Yakiniku Anan (1700 ¥ each—good and cheap). Ordering via tablet wasn’t easy, but luckily it was in English.
We ended the evening with a stroll through Kabukichō before a well-deserved sleep.
Ouest USA 2010: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3986097;a=3986097;
Ouest USA 2011: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4436035;a=4436035;
Bolivie Perou 2017: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/mois-dingue-en-bolivie-perou-d9829402/
Myanmar 2018: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10306039;#10306039
Day 3: In Tokyo: Shibuya/Harajuku
Good breakfast near the hotel (the Tully’s Coffee chain), and what’s more, it opens early for Japan (from 7 AM).
Since the days are short at the end of October (sunrise at 6 AM and sunset at 4:50 PM), we always made sure to start early in the morning.
Subway to Shibuya. Still a light rain.
We decided to try the view from Shibuya Sky on the 47th floor, but it was pretty overcast for seeing into the distance. Still, we could see the hustle and bustle of Shibuya Crossing.
Stroll through Shibuya’s shopping streets. Nothing special for us.
I’d booked a timed entry slot yesterday for a 15-minute window at Kura, the conveyor-belt sushi chain, which let us get a table right away. We tried all kinds of sushi (squid, sea bream, different tunas, salmon, and other fish we didn’t recognize). Everything was excellent. The total came to 5500 yen for the four of us.
The pile of plates at the end of the meal...
We continued to Meiji Jingu Shrine. Quite a crowd here, including a wedding. Comparing it afterward to the temples in Takayama and Kyoto, there’s no contest—the others are prettier.
We finished the afternoon on Takeshita Street, packed with people. So many shops aimed at young teens. Not really our cup of tea, but you’ve got to see all those girls dressed up in "kawaii" style.
Yes, those are little pigs you can cuddle with! :-)
We headed back to Shibuya via "Cat Street," a nicer street lined with more shops, to grab dinner in a narrow alley packed with about twenty small izakaya restaurants (Yokocho Hokuriku Food Market). Well... the quality wasn’t great in our opinion, and the offal skewers were gross.
After taking the subway to Shinjuku, we stopped by a konbini again (we alternated between FamilyMart and 7-Eleven) to pick up stuff for tomorrow’s breakfast on the train. The convenient part is that we paid each time with our IC Card.
Ouest USA 2010: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3986097;a=3986097;
Ouest USA 2011: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4436035;a=4436035;
Bolivie Perou 2017: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/mois-dingue-en-bolivie-perou-d9829402/
Myanmar 2018: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10306039;#10306039
Day 4: Excursion to Kamakura
Early morning train departure at 6:40 AM for a 50-minute ride to Kamakura.
We get off the train one stop before central Kamakura (specifically at Kita Kamakura) to start the Daibutsu trail hike—just as the name suggests—toward the great Buddha Daibutsu.
A 2-hour walk covering 3 km through the hills of the city, in the forest, with stops at two lovely, tourist-free shrines (Kuzuharahoka and Zeniarai Benzaiten Jinja).
The first shrine’s unique feature is a sacred rock where you forcefully throw a small dish (available for 100 yen) to break it, which is meant to ward off evil spirits and bring good luck.
As for the second, you have to go through a cave to reach it. People visit to wash their coins in a sacred spring as a wish for good fortune.
Since it rained the two previous days, the path is quite muddy in places, which led to a few fun slides.
At the end of the hike, we reach the 13-meter-tall Great Buddha.
Ouest USA 2010: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3986097;a=3986097;
Ouest USA 2011: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4436035;a=4436035;
Bolivie Perou 2017: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/mois-dingue-en-bolivie-perou-d9829402/
Myanmar 2018: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10306039;#10306039
Day 4 (continued): Kamakura:
We wrap up the morning visit with the Hasedera temple, perched on the lush green hills.
There are small stone figurines dedicated to deceased children.
Plus, it offers a panoramic view of the city and the sea.
On our way back—still on foot—toward the city center, we stumble upon a tiny restaurant (only 6 seats at a counter facing the chef) at Hamazen Iwashi. We had to wait outside a bit for seats to free up before enjoying an excellent meal of raw and cooked fish (2700 Y per person). We really appreciated the smiling chef’s efforts to explain the dishes in a mix of Japanese and English.
We also enjoyed wandering around Kamakura’s city center, with two parallel streets of cute shops and food stores (Wakamiya Oji and Komachi). The perfect opportunity to try some mochi.
Our afternoon wraps up with a visit to the Tsurugaoka Shrine before taking the train back to Shinjuku.
We might’ve been able to spend a night here to see even more beautiful temples like Hokoku-ji, Kencho-ji, and Engaku-ji, but we had to make a choice, and we’ll see more temples in Kyoto.
Kamakura = a real favorite.
Back in Shinjuku in the early evening, I’d booked a great restaurant with stunning decor (Kyomachi Koisigure). Not easy to find—the sign is in Japanese, and you have to take an elevator to the 6th floor to step right into a movie-like setting. Lots of small dining booths with amazing decor.
We didn’t go for a set menu but tried various dishes (a large, elaborate sushi called *atamaki*, different sashimi, *obenzai*, and wagyu beef teppanyaki—plus fries instead of rice, Belgian obliges), along with the usual good beer. The total came to 19000 Y for the four of us.
Ouest USA 2010: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3986097;a=3986097;
Ouest USA 2011: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4436035;a=4436035;
Bolivie Perou 2017: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/mois-dingue-en-bolivie-perou-d9829402/
Myanmar 2018: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10306039;#10306039
Great start! I'm figuratively feasting my eyes on the photos and literally drooling over all these dishes. Thanks so much.
Bluequark
Carnets :
Namibie, Laos-Perhentias-BKK, Ouest US, Lanzarote, New-York, Berlin, Cuba, Bardenas Reales, AFS -Lesotho-Swaziland, Japon et le dernier né Colombie: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/ete-2017-trois-semaines-en-colmobie-en-famille-d10108246/
Day 5: Heading to Matsumoto
A beautiful blue sky like yesterday, but only 12°C when we arrived after a 2h40 train ride. The maze-like layout of Shinjuku Station wasn’t a problem since everything was well signposted.
In Matsumoto, our hotel (lidaya) is right in front of the station, which always seems super convenient.
Mount Fuji in passing
The town center is pretty deserted. Not much going on. Not many cars, and the ones there are super quiet. A few shops. Quite a change from yesterday.
We grabbed some skewers from a food truck lined up along the river before visiting the castle. The outside seemed more appealing since inside, it’s a single-file tour up endless steep wooden staircases.
An amazing seafood barbecue dinner tonight (isomaru). The scallops were to die for, and so was the hot sake served in generous amounts. 19,000 Y for 4 of us.
Ouest USA 2010: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3986097;a=3986097;
Ouest USA 2011: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4436035;a=4436035;
Bolivie Perou 2017: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/mois-dingue-en-bolivie-perou-d9829402/
Myanmar 2018: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10306039;#10306039
Day 6: Heading to Hirayu Onsen via Kamikochi
The train leaves super early at 6:30 AM. Then we have a 10-minute connection in Shinshimashima for a bus (reservation required) that takes us to Kamikochi in 1 hour.
We arrive early at 8:15 AM in the heart of the Japanese Alps. It’s only 2°C because of the altitude—brrr, it’s freezing!
After dropping our bags at the bus terminal’s luggage storage, we set off on a 5-hour hike along the Azusa River.
Ouest USA 2010: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3986097;a=3986097;
Ouest USA 2011: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4436035;a=4436035;
Bolivie Perou 2017: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/mois-dingue-en-bolivie-perou-d9829402/
Myanmar 2018: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10306039;#10306039
Day 6 continued: Hirayu Onsen
Then another 30-minute bus ride to the small village of Hirayu Onsen, famous for its hot springs.
We stayed in a fantastic hotel that I’d highly recommend. Everything was great: the welcome, the spacious rooms with futons, the kimono rentals, the excellent evening and morning buffet, and the beautiful outdoor baths surrounded by maple trees (Hirayukan).
Ouest USA 2010: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3986097;a=3986097;
Ouest USA 2011: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4436035;a=4436035;
Bolivie Perou 2017: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/mois-dingue-en-bolivie-perou-d9829402/
Myanmar 2018: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10306039;#10306039
Nice travel journal! It’s great because this way I’ll get to see the region of Japan I was hesitating about (the Alps).
Kamakura seems really charming.
Looks like you had the same not-so-great weather...
Hello Patrick,
Clearly you had the same not-so-great weather...
No, the rain was only when we were in the big cities—that is, Tokyo and Osaka. The rest was sunshine, except for 3 cloudy days in Takayama, Kyoto, and Nikko
Ouest USA 2010: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3986097;a=3986097;
Ouest USA 2011: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4436035;a=4436035;
Bolivie Perou 2017: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/mois-dingue-en-bolivie-perou-d9829402/
Myanmar 2018: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10306039;#10306039
Day 7: Heading to Takayama
We still enjoy the onsen before a 1-hour bus ride to Takayama. We drop off our luggage at the hotel across from the bus station (Country Hotel) before starting our visit of the city.
We loved Takayama so much!
First, the two streets of the charming tourist center Sanmachi.
Next, we head to the Hachimangu shrine through another old district (shimoninomachi). Strangely, the streets in this area are deserted. We found it really authentic, and the buildings are even prettier. You’d think tourists only stick to the two streets in the center.
We won’t go into the Matsuri Kaikan museum to see the folk festival floats due to lack of time, but we continue toward the hills east of the city to take the Higashiyama walk.
Ouest USA 2010: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3986097;a=3986097;
Ouest USA 2011: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4436035;a=4436035;
Bolivie Perou 2017: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/mois-dingue-en-bolivie-perou-d9829402/
Myanmar 2018: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10306039;#10306039
Day 7: More of Takayama
During our Higashiyama walk, we stumbled upon Café Kikaku, run by a former geisha. It was a wonderful encounter with this colorful person who—while we waited for our lunch—shared some facets of geisha art with us (music, fan handling, dice games). A truly special moment.
The afternoon wrapped up with a continued stroll through the hills to visit various shrines and temples (Daihō, Sōgen, Hokke-ji, and Hondō-ji—all free, by the way, and with no tourists) until sunset (early, as I mentioned—5 PM).
Ouest USA 2010: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3986097;a=3986097;
Ouest USA 2011: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4436035;a=4436035;
Bolivie Perou 2017: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/mois-dingue-en-bolivie-perou-d9829402/
Myanmar 2018: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10306039;#10306039
Day 7: End of Takayama
We head back to the city center with a quick matcha tea stop at a lovely café (Jiro), before exploring the history and art museum a bit, then enjoying some delicious Hida beef barbecue with a sake tasting.
There’s no one left in the center by the evening.
Ouest USA 2010: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3986097;a=3986097;
Ouest USA 2011: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4436035;a=4436035;
Bolivie Perou 2017: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/mois-dingue-en-bolivie-perou-d9829402/
Myanmar 2018: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10306039;#10306039
Awesome follow-up. Like you, we really enjoyed Takayama. Like you, we were struck by the lack of tourists as soon as you move away from the two main streets. Yet, we were there in August during Obon. Proof in pictures: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=8778881;a=8778881
Bluequark
Carnets :
Namibie, Laos-Perhentias-BKK, Ouest US, Lanzarote, New-York, Berlin, Cuba, Bardenas Reales, AFS -Lesotho-Swaziland, Japon et le dernier né Colombie: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/ete-2017-trois-semaines-en-colmobie-en-famille-d10108246/
Day 8: Takayama
I wanted to keep a good memory of Japanese toilets (heated and with various intimate jets)
and a hello from Spiderman too
This morning, we’re visiting the village of Hida no Sato, a beautiful collection of traditional old houses. Inside each one is interesting, telling the story of life from that era.
Back in the center, we stroll through the “morning market,” which isn’t super interesting. We try some street food like Nikuman (buns with minced meat), Taiyaki (fish-shaped waffles with beans), and mochi (soft sweet rice balls with fruit inside).
Ouest USA 2010: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3986097;a=3986097;
Ouest USA 2011: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4436035;a=4436035;
Bolivie Perou 2017: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/mois-dingue-en-bolivie-perou-d9829402/
Myanmar 2018: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10306039;#10306039
After that culinary experience, we set off to explore the Showa Museum. How to describe it? Reconstructed streets showcasing countless vintage items from the 1950s to 1970s. There are great recreations like the classroom or children’s bedrooms.
We had a blast here. A real throwback to childhood...
Back to the hotel in the late afternoon since our bus leaves at 4:30 PM for a 3-hour trip to Kanazawa.
Ouest USA 2010: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3986097;a=3986097;
Ouest USA 2011: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4436035;a=4436035;
Bolivie Perou 2017: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/mois-dingue-en-bolivie-perou-d9829402/
Myanmar 2018: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10306039;#10306039
Day 9: Kanazawa
We start exploring the city on foot under the sun after a good Japanese breakfast at the hotel—mackerel, miso soup with tofu, rice, and pickled vegetables. My three travel buddies stuck with the American version (the cowards, haha).
First stop: Oyama Shrine and the Gyokusen garden right next to it.
Second stop: Kenrokuen Garden, described (rightly so) as one of the most beautiful in Japan.
Ouest USA 2010: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3986097;a=3986097;
Ouest USA 2011: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4436035;a=4436035;
Bolivie Perou 2017: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/mois-dingue-en-bolivie-perou-d9829402/
Myanmar 2018: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10306039;#10306039
Third stop: Kanazawa Castle. We only see it from the outside because compared to Matsumoto Castle, it seems less appealing to us. We’re picky like that.
Fourth stop: Omicho Market. Even though we’re there at 11:30 AM, it’s already packed. We snag a table at a small restaurant to enjoy some delicious sashimi. I also try a scallop skewer (meh).
We also sample a local specialty: gold-leaf ice cream—tastes like nothing special, except for the price.
Ouest USA 2010: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3986097;a=3986097;
Ouest USA 2011: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4436035;a=4436035;
Bolivie Perou 2017: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/mois-dingue-en-bolivie-perou-d9829402/
Myanmar 2018: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10306039;#10306039
Day 9: Kanazawa (end):
Final stop: the old geisha district, split into two parts: along the river is Kazuemachi District, and the other, more famous (and crowded) one is Higashi District.
The drink menu at the restaurant. Thanks, Google Translate!
Ouest USA 2010: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3986097;a=3986097;
Ouest USA 2011: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4436035;a=4436035;
Bolivie Perou 2017: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/mois-dingue-en-bolivie-perou-d9829402/
Myanmar 2018: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10306039;#10306039
Thanks for this lovely update on Japan.
I went there a year ago during the same period and really enjoyed Kamakura, but your photos of central Japan make me want to go back!
We had booked the evening restaurant (Sabar), which specializes in a variety of dishes with mackerel.
Note: For dinners, we didn’t really feel like looking for a place on the same day because restaurants are often packed. So for our restaurant reservations (usually 3 to 4 days in advance), I went with Google, Tablelog, or HotPepper.
Ouest USA 2010: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3986097;a=3986097;
Ouest USA 2011: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4436035;a=4436035;
Bolivie Perou 2017: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/mois-dingue-en-bolivie-perou-d9829402/
Myanmar 2018: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10306039;#10306039
Day 10: Heading to Kyoto
Two trains (always right on time), including one shinkansen, get us to Kyoto by 10:30 AM. Wow, what an amazing modern roof at the station!
We take the subway to drop off our bags at our Airbnb (listed as "Kyoto Shi" on Airbnb, but "Oyado Shogoin" on Google Maps). We’ll be staying here for 5 nights. The whole house has a living room, a small kitchenette, one bathroom, a laundry room (super handy after 10 days on the road), and upstairs, two bedrooms with futons. Nothing luxurious, but it’s exactly what we need.
Our "living room"
I chose this location near Sanjo Station because it’s close to lots of attractions and the eastern Kyoto train stations.
We head out on foot to Nijo Castle. It’s not really a castle—more like a collection of pavilions. The interiors are pretty, but they all look similar to other places we’ve seen. No photos allowed inside, though.
Next, we head to Nishiki Market. We try some octopus skewers and crab claws before finding a cool café (all black and white) for a nice matcha.
On our way back to the Airbnb, we walk through some shopping arcades near Pontocho before heading out for shabu-shabu (meat hot pot). Between shabu-shabu and yakiniku (grilled meat), we prefer the latter—just a matter of taste.
Ouest USA 2010: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3986097;a=3986097;
Ouest USA 2011: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4436035;a=4436035;
Bolivie Perou 2017: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/mois-dingue-en-bolivie-perou-d9829402/
Myanmar 2018: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10306039;#10306039
Day 11: Southeast Kyoto: Gion district
We grab a nice little breakfast at one of the few small cafés in the Shinbashi district that opens at 7 a.m. because we want to get to the areas near Kiyomizu-dera temple early before the crowds.
Great idea, as the famous Ninenzaka and Sannenzaka alleys are quiet.
It’s 8:30 a.m. when we enter Kiyomizu-dera.
But what a crowd when we leave at 10 a.m.! The shops all open after 9 a.m., which might partly explain why people start arriving from 9 a.m. onward.
Ouest USA 2010: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3986097;a=3986097;
Ouest USA 2011: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4436035;a=4436035;
Bolivie Perou 2017: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/mois-dingue-en-bolivie-perou-d9829402/
Myanmar 2018: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10306039;#10306039
Day 11: Kyoto SE continued:
Our second temple visited is Kodaiji. Surprisingly empty of tourists. A cute little bamboo grove completes the charming garden.
Right next door, a large statue catches our eye: the Ryozen Kannon temple, dedicated to the victims of World War II. The statue is impressive, but that’s about it.
We find a small restaurant to grab some ramen. It’s not easy to find a place with a table for 4 in this touristy part of Gion. In the afternoon, we stop by Kennin-ji temple, then walk down Hanamikoji Street (meh, it’s nothing special—it’s prettier in Takayama or Kanazawa).
Ouest USA 2010: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3986097;a=3986097;
Ouest USA 2011: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4436035;a=4436035;
Bolivie Perou 2017: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/mois-dingue-en-bolivie-perou-d9829402/
Myanmar 2018: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10306039;#10306039
Day 11: Southeast Kyoto (final part)
We spend a little time at Yanaka Shrine attending a religious festival before our daily matcha tea in Maruyama Park.
At 4 PM, we attend a one-hour dance performance by maikos and geishas as part of the 10-day "Gion Odori" event.
As soon as reservations opened three months earlier, I managed to get tickets through our landlady because it’s a highly popular show and seats sell out fast. 6000 ¥ per person. No photos allowed during the performance.
It consists of eight dance tableaux, accompanied by six musicians. Okay, I’ll admit their singing isn’t great, but it’s all part of the show.
A truly beautiful experience.
Ouest USA 2010: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3986097;a=3986097;
Ouest USA 2011: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4436035;a=4436035;
Bolivie Perou 2017: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/mois-dingue-en-bolivie-perou-d9829402/
Myanmar 2018: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10306039;#10306039
It's just magnificent! Really great report! I went there over 10 years ago—I’m just dreaming of going back to Japan! In the meantime, your photos took me on a trip!
Hello, moi c'est Sonia, passionnée de voyages depuis plus de 15 ans !
Europe (j'ai fait de nombreux pays de l'est), Asie (Thailande et Japon), Amérique (cote ouest surtout), Caraïbes et bcq les baléares sinon depuis notre ami le covid...
Day 12: West Kyoto: Arashiyama, and South: Fushimi Inari
Took the subway then transferred at Nijo for the San'in Line train to Arashiyama. Gorgeous weather.
It's 8:30 AM and everyone's crowding to get into Tenryu-ji Temple. Not us.
When planning our trip, I decided to skip 3 famous spots (Tenryu-ji, the Golden Temple, and the Silver Temple) because I noticed other temples are just as pretty and less crowded. And we were right. Kyoto is full of "kawaii" temples that aren't packed.
We also skipped the Monkey Park attraction—it's not really our cup of tea.
So we headed straight through the bamboo grove to Arashiyama Park for the stunning viewpoint over the Katsura River gorge—absolutely beautiful with the early November colors.
Then we went far north to Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple. A lovely, peaceful walk to get there. A real favorite for all four of us.
Some very pretty houses and a cute little temple in a beautiful green setting called the "Moss Temple" (Gio-ji).
Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple has a special feature—it's famous for its cemetery with 8,000 Buddhist statues standing in honor of the deceased.
Next to the temple, there's also a magnificent bamboo grove.
I think we should've spent even more time in this area—it's so beautiful—and visited two other spots like Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple and Jokakko-ji Temple, but we had to make choices.
Ouest USA 2010: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3986097;a=3986097;
Ouest USA 2011: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4436035;a=4436035;
Bolivie Perou 2017: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/mois-dingue-en-bolivie-perou-d9829402/
Myanmar 2018: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10306039;#10306039
Day 12: Western Kyoto (continued):
Back to the super crowded center of Arashiyama at this midday hour.
We take the train to Kyoto Central Station and from there, walk to Tofuku-ji Temple. Lovely zen garden and bridge spanning the maple forest, but I wouldn’t rank it in Kyoto’s top 3.
Ouest USA 2010: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3986097;a=3986097;
Ouest USA 2011: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4436035;a=4436035;
Bolivie Perou 2017: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/mois-dingue-en-bolivie-perou-d9829402/
Myanmar 2018: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10306039;#10306039
We’re starting to feel the fatigue. We’ve already walked a lot today, but it’s still a 15-minute walk to Fushimi Inari Shrine.
In our travel planning, we’d debated whether to visit early in the morning or late in the day. Great call to go just before sunset—it let us see it without the crowds and with the lovely nighttime lighting.
Back to Sanjo on the Keihan train in 10 minutes before heading to enjoy a nice meal at a small izakaya near our place (Hisano).
Ouest USA 2010: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3986097;a=3986097;
Ouest USA 2011: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4436035;a=4436035;
Bolivie Perou 2017: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/mois-dingue-en-bolivie-perou-d9829402/
Myanmar 2018: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10306039;#10306039
Day 13: Excursion to Kibune-Kurama
We take the train from Demachiyanagi Station for a 30-minute ride to Kibune.
First, a quick visit to the two small shrines in Kibune before making the long forest climb up to Kurama Shrine. Luckily, previous hikers leave walking sticks behind.
Despite the overcast weather, we really enjoy the place, surrounded by red autumn foliage.
At the bottom of the descent on the other side of the hill, we have an excellent vegetarian lunch before spending a few hours at the Kurama onsen. It’s not as pretty as Hirayu Onsen, but it’s still very relaxing.
Ouest USA 2010: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3986097;a=3986097;
Ouest USA 2011: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4436035;a=4436035;
Bolivie Perou 2017: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/mois-dingue-en-bolivie-perou-d9829402/
Myanmar 2018: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10306039;#10306039
Day 14: Northeast Kyoto region
Since we’ve already seen tons of temples, this morning we decided to visit only Nanzen-ji Temple and skip Eikan-dō to keep things relaxed.
Besides, Nanzen-ji is huge and varied, and it already took us 1.5 hours.
We continued with the lovely Philosophers’ Path walk under a warm, generous sun.
Since we’d also decided to skip the Silver Pavilion, we took a detour to Honen-in Temple, which is totally worth it. No one else was there.
Ouest USA 2010: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3986097;a=3986097;
Ouest USA 2011: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4436035;a=4436035;
Bolivie Perou 2017: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/mois-dingue-en-bolivie-perou-d9829402/
Myanmar 2018: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10306039;#10306039
A quick lunch on the go (gyozas, matcha ice cream) before heading out to explore a lesser-known temple with a tricky name (Shinshogokuraku). The walk through various non-touristy neighborhoods gives a better glimpse of local life.
From the temple, we’ll head to the Ozaki Shrine, dedicated to rabbits, passing through a cemetery and enjoying a lovely view of the city.
The day wraps up with a visit to the Shinto shrine Heian Jingu and its stunning gardens.
Ouest USA 2010: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3986097;a=3986097;
Ouest USA 2011: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4436035;a=4436035;
Bolivie Perou 2017: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/mois-dingue-en-bolivie-perou-d9829402/
Myanmar 2018: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10306039;#10306039
Day 15: Heading to Nara
We take the subway to the Rokujizo terminus. From there, the Nara line takes us to Nara (obviously).
They’re really well-behaved here.
A 15-minute walk to our hotel (Hen na), where instead of a reception desk, we have to chat with robots. Fun, but not exactly easy—still fun, though.
And off we go for a 5-hour stroll through the park and its various sites. Still sunny and warm (20°C on November 7th). Kofuku-ji, Yoshikien Garden, Todai-ji, Nigatsu-do, and Kasuga Taisha Shrine.
We end our walk at Ukimido Pavilion, then head back to the center via the garden of the former Daijyo-in Temple.
Ouest USA 2010: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3986097;a=3986097;
Ouest USA 2011: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4436035;a=4436035;
Bolivie Perou 2017: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/mois-dingue-en-bolivie-perou-d9829402/
Myanmar 2018: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10306039;#10306039
Day 16: Walk in southern Nara
Still full sunshine! It’s so pleasant, especially since I planned a hike in southern Nara: part of the « Yamanobe no michi », easy access by train; a walk starting in Tenri and ending in Miwa.
As usual, we set off really early, so we’ll spend almost the whole day there.
Here, we’re far from the well-known Japan on this well-marked pilgrimage path. We didn’t meet any foreign tourists—just a few Japanese hikers.
Beautiful Japanese countryside, dotted with tiny villages and shrines, and fruit trees bursting with persimmons.
The hike ends at Omiwa Shrine, one of the oldest existing shrines in Japan. Its 32 m torii is the second tallest in Japan.
As in all temples, you can get a calligraphy stamp in your goshuin travel journal.
Ouest USA 2010: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3986097;a=3986097;
Ouest USA 2011: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4436035;a=4436035;
Bolivie Perou 2017: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/mois-dingue-en-bolivie-perou-d9829402/
Myanmar 2018: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10306039;#10306039
The Yamanobe-no-Michi walk was a nice break before the hustle and bustle of Osaka, where we arrived at 6 PM. A spacious room (32m²) was waiting for us at the Alps Hotel, conveniently located near Nippombashi Station.
View of the room
The stroll through Dotonbori was a stark contrast to our daytime walk. Flashy storefronts and kitschy decor everywhere.
We also tried a sake bar where we had to pay a 500 yen cover charge before enjoying some excellent sake.
Ouest USA 2010: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3986097;a=3986097;
Ouest USA 2011: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4436035;a=4436035;
Bolivie Perou 2017: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/mois-dingue-en-bolivie-perou-d9829402/
Myanmar 2018: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10306039;#10306039
Day 17: Osaka
Nasty weather today, with a fine drizzle. Funny how it only rains when you're in a big city...
Visited Osaka Castle this morning.
All sorts of ramen for lunch.
Wandered through the shopping arcades in the afternoon before relaxing at the hotel since the rain was really coming down.
In the late afternoon, the rain stopped just as we left the hotel for the Shinsekai district. Another overload of flashy and kitschy vibes.
We went up to the top of the Abeno Harukas tower. Luckily, the sky cleared of the heavy clouds, and we could admire Osaka by night.
Couldn’t leave Osaka without trying their famous okonomiyaki omelette. We didn’t feel like eating in the crowds of Shinsekai, so we found a tiny restaurant near the tower. It was already late, and the place was the only one open in the small shopping arcade (Hayashi). Yikes. What are we getting ourselves into... We peeked inside—only 3 tables and 3 counter seats. Packed. The owner told us to wait outside until a table freed up.
Another great find. And an excellent omelette.
As usual, the chef walked us to the exit, especially since we told him "oishikattadesu" (it was delicious).
Ouest USA 2010: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3986097;a=3986097;
Ouest USA 2011: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4436035;a=4436035;
Bolivie Perou 2017: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/mois-dingue-en-bolivie-perou-d9829402/
Myanmar 2018: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10306039;#10306039
Day 18: Heading to Koyasan
2.5 hours of various transports to reach the small village of Koyasan nestled in the heart of the Koya mountains. A train, then a cable car, then a bus to get to Koyasan, a tiny village with hundreds of temples and monasteries, more than half of which welcome visitors to stay overnight.
About our accommodation, a small downside: we found the price excessive. Even though our shukubo Hojo-in was among the cheapest in Koyasan, it was the most expensive lodging of our trip (380 € for the room, dinner and breakfast included).
Apart from the vegetarian meal, which was good, our room was freezing cold, only heated by a gas convection heater—not great for your health. No interaction with the monks. Just a quick fifteen minutes listening to a meditation chant at 6 AM. The bath wasn’t heated either. In short: expensive for what it was in the end. You’re really paying for the experience.
In the “town center,” we first tried some delicious Japanese curry before starting our visit at Kongō Sanmai-in temple with the beautiful autumn colors since we’re at a higher altitude.
Ouest USA 2010: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3986097;a=3986097;
Ouest USA 2011: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4436035;a=4436035;
Bolivie Perou 2017: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/mois-dingue-en-bolivie-perou-d9829402/
Myanmar 2018: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10306039;#10306039
We continued our visit to Koyasan by strolling peacefully through the immense, stunning cemetery in the middle of the forest toward the mausoleum of Kobo Daishi, one of the founders of Buddhism. A magical place.
We returned to our shukubo at the end of the day. We were served a vegetarian dinner called "shōjin ryōri," more than half of which was made up of ingredients we’d never tried before. It was good but a bit disorienting.
Ouest USA 2010: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3986097;a=3986097;
Ouest USA 2011: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4436035;a=4436035;
Bolivie Perou 2017: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/mois-dingue-en-bolivie-perou-d9829402/
Myanmar 2018: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10306039;#10306039
Day 19: Koyasan then back to Osaka
Very cold night (5 degrees). Early rise to attend the monks' prayer. Actually, just one monk reciting mantras for 15 minutes before leaving. We would’ve liked a bit of explanation about the ritual.
We explore Danjogaran early in the morning.
Then we visit Kongobu-ji temple. The interior paintings in the various pavilions are particularly lovely. We finish the temple visit with Banryutei, Japan’s largest rock garden.
Back to Osaka in the late afternoon. We treat ourselves to another sushi train at Kura Namba.
Ouest USA 2010: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3986097;a=3986097;
Ouest USA 2011: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4436035;a=4436035;
Bolivie Perou 2017: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/mois-dingue-en-bolivie-perou-d9829402/
Myanmar 2018: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10306039;#10306039
Day 20: Back to Tokyo in Asakusa
Took the shinkansen in 2.5 hours to Tokyo Central Station. But what a maze of corridors to get to the Asakusa subway line! Not obvious at all.
Luckily, the subway exit is right in front of our hotel (APA Ekimae), perfectly located for visiting Asakusa, for tomorrow’s train departure to Nikko, and for the direct train line to the airport on our last day.
We find a little restaurant serving good gyozas before diving into the crowd on the famous Nakamise Street toward the Asakusa Shrine. Okay, okay… We encounter a dense crowd, the stalls are clearly tourist-oriented, and there are much more beautiful shrines elsewhere.
We also grab a coffee at the top of the visitor center for the view over Asakusa.
We stroll through the alleys of Hoppy Street and the Don Quijote department store before heading to see the skyline (Tokyo Tower and Starck’s “sculpture”) on the other side of the Sumida River.
We treat ourselves to a kaiseki meal at a renowned spot (Kappou Tonbo).
We paid 33,000 Y in total for the four of us. The 6,050 Y menu included: appetizers + sashimi + sukiyaki beef + chawanmushi + tempura + a fish + dessert. More than enough. FYI: the most expensive menu was still 22,000 Y per person.
Evening stroll. Same street, but no crowd.
Ouest USA 2010: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3986097;a=3986097;
Ouest USA 2011: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4436035;a=4436035;
Bolivie Perou 2017: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/mois-dingue-en-bolivie-perou-d9829402/
Myanmar 2018: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10306039;#10306039
Day 21: Excursion to Nikko
Departure from the train at Asakusa at 7:50 AM to arrive directly in Nikko in 2 hours.
We’ll spend the whole day wandering around to discover various temples in the middle of the woods.
First, the Rinno-ji temple, then the grand and beautiful Toshogu shrine, which contains the mausoleum of the military leader Tokugawa.
Oh, those beautiful red colors. I never get tired of them!
We wrap up the visit with the Futarasan shrine and the Taiyuin temple.
We pull ourselves away from the temple area and head toward the Kanmangafuchi Abyss, where we find a little spot for a late lunch to enjoy a delicious fish gratin at Café Restaurant Bell.
The return train leaves at 4:20 PM. The train schedule allowed us to enjoy a relaxing discovery of Nikko.
A fish barbecue at Asakusa wraps up the day (at Sakurada restaurant).
Ouest USA 2010: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3986097;a=3986097;
Ouest USA 2011: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4436035;a=4436035;
Bolivie Perou 2017: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/mois-dingue-en-bolivie-perou-d9829402/
Myanmar 2018: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10306039;#10306039
Day 22: Last day in Tokyo
Another beautiful sunny day in November.
We had breakfast at "Tully’s Coffee" near Ueno Park before spending an hour and a half at the National Museum.
Then we strolled toward the Yanaka neighborhood via the cemetery. Lovely shops here. And one last delicious ramen.
Ouest USA 2010: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3986097;a=3986097;
Ouest USA 2011: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4436035;a=4436035;
Bolivie Perou 2017: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/mois-dingue-en-bolivie-perou-d9829402/
Myanmar 2018: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10306039;#10306039
Day 22: Last day in Tokyo (continued and concluded)
One last ramen before taking the subway to the south of Tokyo to visit TeamLab Planets museum.
Wow!! A burst of colors and diverse sensations. A wonderful experience.
Last subway ride... it's over.
Back on the subway to Asakusa. We still have time for dinner. We make the Japan-Europe transition by going to eat duck at "La Manie Beans." The chef spent a year in a restaurant on the Île d'Oléron and brought back ideas he cooks to perfection.
We go back to pick up our luggage at the hotel, use up the last yen on our ICOCA card by buying a bottle of sake at 7-Eleven, then take the direct train to the airport.
Takeoff at 11:30 PM to arrive in Munich the next day. A 2-hour layover. Arrival in Brussels at 10:20 AM.
I hope you enjoyed this trip to Japan as much as we did.
Patrick
Ouest USA 2010: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3986097;a=3986097;
Ouest USA 2011: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4436035;a=4436035;
Bolivie Perou 2017: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/mois-dingue-en-bolivie-perou-d9829402/
Myanmar 2018: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10306039;#10306039
It was 15°C, but it rained—and kept raining on and off all day. Belgian weather, basically.
We went for a walk in Shinjuku Gyoen Park. Not as pretty in the rain, but the big greenhouse was interesting.
The pile of plates at the end of the meal...
Yes, those are little pigs you can cuddle with! :-)
We headed back to Shibuya via "Cat Street," a nicer street lined with more shops, to grab dinner in a narrow alley packed with about twenty small izakaya restaurants (Yokocho Hokuriku Food Market). Well... the quality wasn’t great in our opinion, and the offal skewers were gross.
Mount Fuji in passing
The town center is pretty deserted. Not much going on. Not many cars, and the ones there are super quiet. A few shops. Quite a change from yesterday.
First, the two streets of the charming tourist center Sanmachi.
There’s no one left in the center by the evening.
and a hello from Spiderman too
The drink menu at the restaurant. Thanks, Google Translate!
Our "living room"
They’re really well-behaved here.
A 15-minute walk to our hotel (Hen na), where instead of a reception desk, we have to chat with robots. Fun, but not exactly easy—still fun, though.
View of the room
The stroll through Dotonbori was a stark contrast to our daytime walk. Flashy storefronts and kitschy decor everywhere.
We also tried a sake bar where we had to pay a 500 yen cover charge before enjoying some excellent sake.
All sorts of ramen for lunch.
Oh, those beautiful red colors. I never get tired of them!
Last subway ride... it's over.
