Some trips are born twice - Peru April - May 2025
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Some trips are born twice.

Ours was supposed to happen in 2020. Everything was ready: the itinerary, the flight tickets, hotel reservations and Machu Picchu, the rental car, dreams of high altitudes and wide-open spaces. And then the world stopped.

Like so many other plans, our trip to Peru was put on hold. Disappointment was followed by a more concrete reality: paperwork, endless back-and-forth, and battles to recover some of the costs we’d already paid.

The years went by. Life moved on, with its shifting priorities and unexpected twists. Rescheduling this trip wasn’t possible until 2025.

The itinerary stayed mostly true to what we’d imagined five years earlier. One major difference, though—in 2020, we’d planned to rent a car and explore the roads completely independently. Most importantly, we hadn’t included the three-day Ausangate trek, due to lack of time.

For 2025, our plans evolved. 4x4 rental prices had skyrocketed, and when we looked at our schedule more closely, we realized quite a few days didn’t actually need a vehicle. So we made a different choice and opted for private drivers instead. A decision we never regretted. Always punctual, thoughtful, and available... they were so much more than just drivers.

All our reservations were made in January, except for the trek, which we booked in February.

Finding reliable drivers on our own was tough, so we asked Laurent from Tout Pérou to handle it for us. Going through Tout Pérou also gave us a discount on the train ride to Aguas Calientes, so Laurent booked those tickets too. He also bought our Machu Picchu entrance tickets at the same price we would’ve paid on the official website. When comparing domestic flight prices, we found it was cheaper to book from Peru, so Laurent took care of those as well.

This time, nothing was going to stop us. Peru was waiting. And we were ready. 🙂
TI Ticapi Globetrotter ·
This journal is first and foremost a logbook: our visits, our journeys, our impressions day by day. You won’t find detailed explanations about archaeological sites or the places we visited here. Information on Machu Picchu, Inca sites, or even Arequipa and Cusco is easy to find elsewhere. Here, I’m mostly sharing our experience and photos.
TI Ticapi Globetrotter ·
Monday, April 14

Left home at 4:30 PM. Took the bus then the train to Geneva Airport. Once we arrived, we headed to the Iberia counter to pick up our boarding passes. Then we went to the Ibis Hotel, right across from the airport. This hotel is really handy when you’ve got an early flight the next morning.

Tuesday, April 15

Woke up at 3:30 AM, quick breakfast at 4:00, then a ten-minute walk to the airport.

Took off at 7:00 AM for Madrid. We arrived on time and took the metro to terminal S. Our flight to Lima, scheduled for 1:40 PM, was eventually delayed by forty minutes.

We were seated in a row of three seats for the two of us—a real luxury for a long-haul flight. Ten minutes before departure, the flight attendants opened the rear door of the plane. Four police officers boarded with two handcuffed men. The atmosphere shifted immediately. Conversations became quieter, glances were exchanged. The journey began in an unexpected way…

During the flight, we made up for the delay and eventually landed on time in Lima. Went through customs, picked up our luggage, then met our driver at the agreed meet-up point.

It took us almost an hour to reach the Antigua Hotel in the Miraflores district.

We had soup in the garden before heading up to rest in our room, which is on the top floor of this lovely hotel.
TI Ticapi Globetrotter ·
Wednesday, April 16

After breakfast, Laurent from Tout Pérou joins us. He takes notes to book a homestay on Amantani Island, then we double-check all the reservations made by Tout Pérou together: the Latam flight tickets, Machu Picchu entrance tickets, train tickets to get there, the on-site guide, as well as the different drivers and stops we want to make with them. He also gives us plenty of tips about taxis, tipping, and more. In short, we spend a good hour with Laurent, who’s really friendly.

Then we go to exchange US dollars for soles and head to the Pacific Ocean shore. We stroll for two hours before returning to the hotel.









The driver arrives at 12:45 PM to take us to the airport. The flight with Latam, above the Peruvian mountains, is stunning. We fly over the peaks and high plateaus almost at their level.





When we arrive in Arequipa, we take a taxi inside the airport grounds to get to the Hotel Casa Arequipa. A little surprise upon arrival: they were expecting us a day earlier and had canceled the reservation. Seeing their mistake, they upgrade us to a superior room with a huge bed.

We settle in and then head into town. There are tons of people—folks have come from far away to attend the Easter processions. We eat at Kao restaurant, which is really good, before heading back to the hotel.



Follow along for the rest: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=11461040;a=11461040
RO Rouquine38 Globetrotter ·
Cool Carmen, I'm joining you on the Peruvian roads 😉
MO Montagnard74 Globetrotter ·
Here I am! Well, you’ll see, the travel journals have really dropped in activity since 2020, but don’t worry, the regulars will show up 😉

Anyway, I’m happily jumping in, if only to relive the amazing moments I had there! I’ll be using public transport! 😉 But private drivers aren’t bad either…

You didn’t mention how long the trip is—two months?
TI Ticapi Globetrotter ·
There we go, I'm here! Well, you'll see, the travel journals have really dropped in activity since 2020, but don't worry, the old-timers will show up 😉

Yeah, I noticed. It's too bad because VF used to/is a really useful forum for trip planning.

Anyway, I'm happy to jump in, if only to relive the amazing moments I had there... Mostly using public transport! 😉 But private drivers aren't bad either...

Thanks! 🙂 We had some amazing moments in Peru too.

You didn't mention how long the trip is—two months?

From April 14th to May 10th.

Two months we'll have to wait for retirement for that. 😉
TI Ticapi Globetrotter ·
Cool Carmen, I'm joining you on the Peruvian roads 😉

Cool, I'm happy to see some "old-timers" from the forum again.🙂
TI Ticapi Globetrotter ·
Thursday, April 17

Breakfast in the little room on the rooftop terrace of the house is a real pleasure. The place is bright and very pleasant.

We leave the hotel at 8:30 AM to arrive at the Santa Catalina Convent when it opens at 9:00 AM. We take the tour with a French-speaking guide. Her explanations are very interesting and help us better understand the history of the convent. After 1 hour and 30 minutes with her, we can still wander around at our leisure in this magnificent place. The colors are beautiful, and the spot is so peaceful. Plus, there are very few people, which is perfect for taking photos.

















After this lovely visit, we go for a walk around town. Some churches are closed for Easter preparations.

We have lunch at the Zig Zag restaurant. The grilled meats on the slate, served with their sides, are excellent. We really enjoy it. For dessert, we try the famous queso helado. This milk and cinnamon ice cream is delicious.

We then stroll through the streets toward the covered market. We visit it but find it less charming than the one we discovered in Sucre, Bolivia. We return to the hotel by walking through very lively streets in a popular neighborhood.





At the end of the day, we head back into town to have dinner at the restaurant Chicha por Gastón Acurio. The service is attentive, and the dishes are very good. After leaving the restaurant, we stroll around a bit more. Like the night before, there are lots of people—folks moving from one church to another to pray.

You can find the rest of the travel journal here: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=11461211;a=11461211
MO Montagnard74 Globetrotter ·
Small clarification—I don’t know if you got the info, but travel journals are now "limited" to a max of 300 photos. Since I know you’re generous with your pics, you’ll have to "manage" 😉

We also opted for a French-speaking guided tour of the convent. The history of this site is amazing! !
RO Rouquine38 Globetrotter ·
This convent is stunning—we had it almost to ourselves too... I must have almost the same photos! 😊
FA FamilleUS Veteran ·
Chicha and Zig-Zag, this travel journal is off to a great start... I'm hopping on the colectivo now!
MU Muriel18 Globetrotter ·
Hello Carmen

Even if Peru isn’t a priority for me (at least not in the short term), I’m happily jumping on board! 😎
LA Larri Veteran ·
Hi there, and thanks for this travel journal—I’ll be following it with pleasure since I’m heading to Peru in June. Did you stay at the Hotel Antigua in Miraflores, which we’ve also booked? What did you think of it? Did you plan your trip with ToutPerou? Also, I’ll be jotting down your restaurant and sightseeing tips to make good use of them. Best, Larri
TI Ticapi Globetrotter ·
Chicha and Zig-Zag, this travel journal is off to a great start...

It’s one of the countries where we ate the best. Plus, the presentation of the dishes was always stunning. We treated ourselves by choosing great restaurants.
TI Ticapi Globetrotter ·
Hello Carmen

Hi Muriel,

Even if Peru isn’t a priority for me (at least not in the short term)

You’re wrong... 😉 We loved Peru.
MU Muriel18 Globetrotter ·
You're wrong...😉

Maybe reading your travel journal will change my mind 😉.
TI Ticapi Globetrotter ·
Hi Jean Claude,

I’m heading to Peru in June.

That’s a great idea! 🙂

Did you stay at Hotel Antigua in Miraflores, which we’ve also booked? What did you think of it?

We loved the colonial decor and style of the hotel, the tranquility, and its little garden. Breakfast was hearty. We had a room on the top floor—it was huge with an enormous bed, and everything was spotless. If you don’t mind climbing stairs, I’d recommend asking for a room on the upper floors. The hotel is well-located for walking to the oceanfront.

Did you plan your trip with ToutPerou?

I planned the trip myself—stops, visits, itinerary, etc. Laurent just gave me a few tips for the Titicaca part. However, Laurent handled booking the drivers, train tickets, Machu Picchu tickets, the guide at Machu Picchu, and domestic flights.

By going through Laurent, we saved on airfare and train tickets. The price for drivers was very reasonable. We paid each driver at the end of the trip. The Machu Picchu tickets were the same price as if we’d bought them ourselves on the official site.

We have no regrets—Laurent was very responsive, especially when our Cusco-Lima flight was delayed, and he found us an earlier departure.

I just realized I didn’t mention ToutPerou in the intro of my travel journal or that Laurent came to see us at the hotel in Lima. Thanks for asking—I’ll update those posts.
TI Ticapi Globetrotter ·
Friday, April 18

This morning, we set off to explore the Yanahuara district. We cross the Chili River and pass by the Recoleta convent. The church is open, so we pop in for a quick look.

It’s a climb to reach Yanahuara Plaza. From this square, we overlook downtown Arequipa. There are lots of people—buses are dropping off dozens of Peruvians who’ve come to Arequipa for Easter celebrations.



We head back down to the center via a different route and go for lunch at 13 Monjas restaurant. As in previous days, the dishes are delicious and beautifully presented.

Around 4 p.m., we make our way to Plaza de Armas to settle in at a rooftop terrace for a Pisco Sour. The view of the cathedral and the Misti volcano is incredible, and the shifting light as the sun sets is stunning.







A group of young Belgians arrives on the terrace, completely out of breath. They’re suffering from altitude sickness. The young woman seems particularly affected. We wonder how they’ll manage for the rest of their trip. They’re staying two nights in Arequipa, just arrived from Belgium, and are planning to head straight to Lake Titicaca afterward.🏴‍☠️

We then head back to eat at Kao restaurant, recommended by our hotel staff.

For the rest of the travel journal: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=11461228;a=11461228
LA Larri Veteran ·
Hi there, Thanks for your reply. We’d also wanted to go to Peru in 2020, but an honest tour operator advised us against that time of year (February). So we switched to Guatemala and didn’t regret the choice at all (check out our travel journal on voyageforum). We’re taking the same approach as you for organizing our trip to Peru: drivers, trains, flights (which are actually cheaper when you book the tickets in Peru), and guides were all arranged through Tout Pérou. We’re also working with Laurent. Your experience puts our minds at ease. Unfortunately, Laurent will be in France during our stay, but I’m sure his replacements will do a good job. I’ll be following your trip with interest and jotting down your great spots! It really does seem like you’ve gone all out on restaurants. What’s the average price of the places you’ve tried in Arequipa and elsewhere?

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