Hi Anna, the seawater isn’t exactly inviting for a swim either. As for the cenotes—no way. I can’t even imagine dipping into that. Why bother? What’s the fun in bathing in a sewer? If you’re looking for more detailed info, Greenpeace released a very thorough report in 2016 on pesticide contamination in the cenotes, which is a whole other issue compared to the fecal contamination everyone talks about. It’s in Spanish and titled *Contaminación de cenotes con plaguicidas en la Península de Yucatán*.
Oh, I don’t speak Spanish. Only my husband remembers a bit from school. No, there’s really no pleasure in dipping into a sewer, but I haven’t lost hope of finding a cenote that’s cleaner than the others (and there are still a few of them!).
Hi,
laws are cantonal, but you won’t see a huge difference from one canton to another, except with the adoption of the trash bag tax, where each canton implemented it at the time it deemed most appropriate.
I think you’ve made up your mind, but for my part, I went to ask biologists or people working on-site in those cenotes, and they were very reassuring... Sure, there’s pollution we can’t deny, but it’s far from being sewers (there’s still room for improvement!). There’s no health risk. So, personally, I won’t deprive myself of the pleasure of discovering them—maybe more off the beaten path than along the Riviera Maya. That said, to avoid making the pollution worse, skip the sunscreen, deodorant, makeup, and take a good shower first.
I went to ask biologists or people working on-site in these cenotes, and they were very reassuring...
Hi Anna, thanks for looking into this. If those people are tied to local tourism, I don’t think they’re being objective. Imagine saying that 75% of the cenotes in Yucatán are polluted—it’d be an economic disaster. Given the number of converging articles, I’d rather check out other places next time and avoid the water this round. Who are these biologists? Greenpeace, whom I particularly trust, released a report that doesn’t seem very positive. And if 80% of Tulum’s hotels dump their wastewater into the ground, I don’t see how a miracle could happen.
No, they're expats who have scientific work, one of them related to the cenotes. That said, I don’t know them personally, and I didn’t question them in depth. 😕 I sent them the scientific articles in English that I found, plus the Greenpeace report, and here’s one of the responses I got: "The water *is* polluted, but mostly by pesticides and cosmetics. If you go to a cenote, I’d recommend not using perfume, deodorant, cream, etc., to avoid polluting them further. And I also see that bacteria don’t thrive very well in this environment."
From what I’ve read, swimming in cenotes is a bit like swimming in a pond or lake in France. The difference with cenotes, though—another response I got: "The water in cenotes is rainwater naturally filtered by the limestone rock (the Yucatán Peninsula is one big limestone rock). The water in cenotes has a pH of 7, and you’ll find the same water in hotel taps or our homes."
I also came across a map of cenotes showing good water quality during my research. Unfortunately, I forgot to save it and can’t find it in my history (I have to say, I scoured the whole web 😮). Anyway, the ones in Cuzamá were marked as clean—I checked because I wanted to go there. Can’t you get away from Tulum and head toward Bacalar, for example? Or visit the Sian Ka’an reserve?
I guess the 25% that’s not polluted is far from towns like Tulum. I’d rather not spend too much time on the road in 10 days. The farthest I’ll go is Valladolid. So around Tulum, I’ll be pretty limited, since I also don’t feel like swimming in the sea in front of those hotels.
A pH of 7 doesn’t mean the water’s free of pollution.
From all this, I understand that fecal matter ends up in cenotes near towns since the rock apparently filters it, and in the sea (and tap water, since treatment infrastructure seems to be failing and it’s not safe to drink from the tap). But pesticides and chemicals dumped into the sewers end up in most of the interconnected cenotes, tap water, and the sea near human activity.
Sian Ka’an is on the plan. Maybe it’s still a little preserved.
Okay, I get not swimming there.
But don’t skip visiting some of them—they’re stunning geological formations.
Pick them based on that rather than whether you can swim, and you’ll keep some amazing memories.
++
JP
True, seeing it must be interesting even if it’s frustrating. Initially, unaware of the sewage and pesticide issues, I was already hesitant about jumping into a watering hole where thousands of people come to splash around—like a pool with no water treatment.
Yes, but it’s not stagnant water.
It’s water in constant motion across—or rather, beneath—the entire Yucatán Peninsula.
The network spans thousands of kilometers, and I’m not even talking about the total water volume.
Have a great trip anyway!
JP.
I just got back from 3 weeks in Mexico and came across this heated discussion about water pollution. I’m one of the "fools" who swam in the cenotes..., and despite everything, it remains one of my best memories! They’re geological wonders!
There are over 10,000 cenotes in the Yucatán. And not just on the Riviera Maya—quite the opposite, actually. The ones I loved the most are near Valladolid. It’s important to know that cenotes aren’t municipal swimming pools, and very few people actually swim in them, especially the less "mediatized" ones. It’s also up to tourists to follow basic rules, like not wearing sunscreen, avoiding perfumes, etc...
I completely agree that the area around Tulum has become quite a bleak zone, where the thirst for money has taken over authenticity and respect for nature. Seeing those poor dolphins trapped in aquariums for the entertainment of some tourists, or all those all-inclusive hotels along the sandbank in Cancún... it’s disgusting, and that’s exactly what we should avoid and boycott!
On the other hand, there are Mexicans, long-time locals, who are just trying to get by by taking advantage of tourism to make a living.
That said, it’s important not to hesitate to venture further to discover places like the Sian Ka’an reserve, which is still preserved, or Bacalar Lagoon, which is still protected from mass tourism—for now, at least, though things are starting to change there too.
I went to Cancún but didn’t set foot in the luxury hotel zone. I was surprised by the Cancún I discovered—its small downtown and "zócalo" that comes alive in the evening, where Mexican families stroll and kids play.
That’s another side of Mexico worth remembering: the beauty of its landscapes, the simplicity of its people, the festive and warm atmosphere...
As travelers, we also have a responsibility to travel sustainably and think about the ecological impact we leave behind. But like in any country, I’ve also contributed to Mexico’s land pollution...
Thanks for your feedback, Joanna. For my part, I’ll also take the usual precautions.
We’ve still planned 4 days in Playa since my husband and daughter are into diving (and for my son and me, there’ll be more activities during that time) and 1 day in Tulum for the Sian Ka’an reserve.
I’ve been to Mexico countless times since 1985, from northern Mexico City all the way down to Panama. I used to love Mexico City and the colonial towns (my favorite is Oaxaca, but all the others are beautiful too!) and the landscapes, especially the mountains and the people.
In recent years, I’ve been flying into Cancun because I’ve developed a passion for the Mayan sites of Central America, even the smallest ones. Some I’ve visited multiple times, not to mention the new ones—there are still so many buried in the forests.
In 1985, only the beach in Cancun was developed. Since the late '80s and early '90s, I’ve witnessed the insane overdevelopment of the entire Caribbean coast between Cancun and Tulum. (A lot of Spanish investors, among others...)
Not to mention the corruption of the Mexican government (and the governor of Quintana Roo, of course), who couldn’t care less about the environment or the locals in favor of $$$$$$$$.
In 1985, Playa del Carmen was a small town (a bit bigger than the tiny village of Tulum) with a ferry dock to Cozumel, a few hotels, and some camping-cabins.
So, I always made a quick stop at the stunning beach in Tulum, south of the Mayan site. Back in '85, there was just one tiny camping-cabañas spot, the Santa Fe, and jaguars crossing the road (personally, I never got lucky enough to see one).
And between Tulum and Punta Allen, until 2012, the accommodations stayed modest in size (though the prices have become outrageous over the years🏴☠️!)
Anyway😊, my last swim in Tulum’s sea was in 2012, and the water was crystal clear—I even swallowed a mouthful.
After this long preamble, which probably only interests me😎, it’s clear that the pollution situation could only have gotten worse over the years given the massive scale of this "Riviera Maya" (poor Mayans!).
In short😊, what I wanted to say by jumping into this discussion:
if the sea in Tulum is this damaged, then Cancun and Playa del Carmen must be even worse...!!!😕😕
I went to Mexico a year and a half ago, and I absolutely loved it, personally. I didn’t just "do" Playa del Carmen or Tulum—those were actually the places I liked the least.
We visited Yucatán, Chiapas, Quintana Roo... and we would’ve loved to go much farther south and west, but we didn’t have enough time there.
So, we saw cenotes—I didn’t swim in them, though—but I found some that were really beautiful, especially Cenote Azul (though nearby Bacalar, I didn’t really love, but that was more because of the place we stayed ^^).
We found Tulum kind of meh after seeing incredible Maya sites in less touristy parts of Yucatán. On some sites, we were practically the only tourists—it was amazing.
Mexico can’t be reduced to Playa del Carmen, Cancún, or Mexico City, thankfully.
And pollution, whatever form it takes, right now, we’re dealing with it everywhere in the world. Unfortunately. Sometimes overthinking things isn’t worth it (and I’m one of those people who overthinks way too much—I’m trying to learn to let go...).
And in the case of the person who started this post, if I were in their shoes and already that disgusted before even going, I’d probably cancel, even if it meant losing the money, because it’s off to a bad start, and I think those would be ruined vacations. What a shame...
Hi Evelyne, I’m the one who started this thread. Two questions:
- You said, "We found Tulum pretty lame after seeing incredible Maya sites in the Yucatán that were way less touristy—on some, we were practically the only visitors, it was amazing." Which sites do you recommend within 150 km of Tulum?
- You wrote, "I didn’t really love Bacalar." For what reason? Just the accommodation?
Seeing all those all-inclusive hotels along the sandbar in Cancun... that just makes me sick, and that’s exactly what you should avoid and boycott!
Good luck...
All the Canadians I know go there, from 7 to 77 years old. To all-inclusives...
When you ask them where they’re going on vacation (they don’t *travel*, they go on vacation), they’ll tell you themselves: « at such-and-such hotel ». The location doesn’t matter, as long as there’s the sea, the sun, and... unlimited alcohol. And if you think I’m exaggerating, do a little research... 🤪
Actually, the thing is, the most beautiful sites—the least crowded ones too—are over 300 km from Tulum, really. 😐😐
Except for Chichen Itza, which is about 155 km from Tulum and absolutely stunning. I don’t know when you’re going, but we were in Mexico in April and May, and honestly, there weren’t crowds, but... it’s best to arrive as early as possible, first to avoid the intense heat (by 10–10:30 AM, it’s *reaaaally* hot) and especially to avoid the tour buses that start showing up mid-morning (I’m talking about the more famous sites like Chichen or Uxmal—no risk of crowds at the others). In April/May, it’s still manageable; they’re not too numerous, but I imagine July/August is a different story.
Otherwise, so many sites were breathtaking, all pretty far from the "Riviera Maya"—I remember Calakmul, Palenque, Misol Ha, Kohunlich, Uxmal... the gorgeous city of Campeche, and so many other places. It’s really a country to explore by taking the time to leave the overly touristy spots and venturing deeper into the country. That said, I can’t guarantee that hygiene standards inland are the same as back home—probably not, though sometimes even back home...
As for Bacalar, yeah, it was mostly the accommodation that disappointed us, and the town too, but we’d just come from much better places. Still, it’s worth seeing the Bacalar Lagoon, and nearby, Cenote Azul (the water is—or seems—so crystal clear, but no pressure to swim ^^). We completely missed visiting Akumal—the turtle beach—because, a bit exhausted from the trip, we just didn’t find it (the shame), but I hear it’s worth it.
Hi again,
Not far from Valladolid, there’s the Ek Balam site, which I’ll be visiting in April. It’s a "recent" discovery that was uncovered by a team mostly made up of French researchers.
The nearby cenote X'canche is stunning.
There’s also Cobá, which personally didn’t wow me that much, but I think that’s because it was the first site I visited, and I was expecting something more like what I’d seen or read about Chichén Itzá. Cobá might deserve a second visit after some time.
I loved Tulum, which is nothing like a religious city such as those you see in Chichén Itzá or Uxmal.
It’s an ancient port and trading city that was still inhabited when the Spanish invaded the peninsula. So, don’t expect it to be like its more famous, more "religious" counterparts.
It’s perched on a cliff above the Caribbean, the highest point (12-15m) along the coast.
The grays of the stones, the greens of the vegetation, and the gorgeous blues of the sea blend together to create a stunning mosaic. Visually speaking, with the layout of the buildings, it’s one of my favorite sites. But hey, there’s the sea, so that’s normal.
You should always be wary of 'travel sellers.'
Tulum has no historical interest; its only unique feature is that it's the only Mayan site by the sea... and ultimately not too far from Cancun's ghettos....
Same goes for Chichen Itza.
Meanwhile, Coba and especially Uxmal, Mérida, and the Ruta Puuc have so much to show and tell.... But that’s not what the average tourist is interested in: 'It’s too far from the hotel and the included meals....' 😛
Some guides (like *Le Routard*) never stop raving about the......7 shades of blue in the sea at Bacalar Lagoon.... 😎
Personally, I’ve never seen more than 3, even after several visits. Bacalar is on the way to Chetumal and Guatemala....
In short, there’s what the guides say and then there’s reality. And most importantly, Mexico isn’t (and thankfully!) just the Yucatan...
You're right, I forgot to mention Ek Balam—I actually visited it too and loved it. In fact, I think I loved all the Mayan sites except Tulum. Now, don’t yell scandal, let me explain: I found Tulum stunning as a site by the turquoise and blue sea—it’s truly a gorgeous place. However, and nothing will change my mind on this, unfortunately, I *hated* the hordes of American tourists who don’t hesitate to climb on the remains of monuments, step over ropes to pose next to a "old rock" against the azure backdrop. I also didn’t find the ruins as interesting as all the others I’ve seen, but that’s probably just personal taste. 😊
A few days ago, I came across a chart showing a number of cities around the world ranked by cost and quality of life. The source is the Numbeo database, based in Serbia, dated August 2026. There will undoubtedly be a thousand possible questions and criticisms. The main objection is methodological. Anyone with an internet connection can rate a city, so the sample is neither random nor representative, and its size varies enormously from one city to another. Numbeo describes the ranking as reflecting the perceptions and experiences of its contributors rather than measured results.
Is this an appropriate topic for VF? I think so. When traveling abroad, you notice huge differences in lifestyle and naturally ask yourself: is it better here than there, or than at home? The question arises differently depending on the type of trip—short or medium-term tourism, or medium to long-term residence.
And we’re back to the methodology problem. Since anyone can submit ratings to the database, how do we know whether the ranking of a city like Novgorod, Quito, or Islamabad (chosen at random) comes from travelers, foreign residents, or only people who are native to the place and have never left their hometown?
The cost of living in the database is indexed based on restaurant prices, transportation, services, housing (rented or purchased), and income. Fair enough. For quality of life, they mention safety, medical services, traffic, pollution, and climate. I would have liked to see social quality of life (interpersonal relationships, nightlife, shows, restaurants, etc.) as well as the possibility of pleasant and interesting excursions included.
That said, I don’t think it’s completely meaningless. In any case, it can serve as a starting point for those interested in the topic. So, I’m posting the original chart here, along with two versions with my personal annotations. A few comments:
- In principle and in my opinion, there should be a simple cost-quality relationship, which I represent with a diagonal sector running from the bottom-left quadrant to the top-right quadrant—that is, from cheap but low-quality cities to expensive cities offering a higher quality of life. It’s no surprise to find several Australian cities at one extreme of this sector, for example. Take Melbourne: sure, it’s a very pleasant city to live in, but living or visiting there is very expensive.
- The bottom-right and top-left quadrants: these are the cities that don’t fit this expected relationship:
o Bottom-right quadrant: expensive cities with mediocre quality of life. London and Paris are here, along with several U.S. cities. No surprise there. The worst is Los Angeles, closely followed by London, Paris, New York, Chicago, Milan... I don’t think that’s a huge revelation.
o Top-left quadrant: relatively affordable cities with a good quality of life. We find cities in Brazil (Curitiba, Florianópolis), Turkey (Antalya), Spain, and Portugal. I’m intrigued by the presence of Russian cities and Islamabad—again, who are the people rating these cities?
I was drawn to this chart after returning from a trip to Japan. I know some travelers don’t think much of Tokyo, but I had a good impression of it. So, I’m inclined to agree with ranking Tokyo right near Lisbon in the best quadrant. I’m even wondering if it wouldn’t be a good idea to move there for a few months. Other cities in Japan could be worth considering...
Hi everyone, I stumbled upon this article about Bali, which has finally decided to take action against "influencers" and expel them from the island. A special brigade has even been created to stop them. Details in the article below.
So, I’ll answer my own question—I won’t beat around the bush: I can’t stand influencers anymore. It’s just another layer on top of the eco-conscious/hipster crowd. Now we’ve got influencers added to the mix. Because beyond skyrocketing prices and paradise spots ruined in just a few years, the real result is the homogenization of all tourist spots. They demand their little cafés serving vegan, Instagram-worthy food, their coworking spaces, their vegan Instagram shops, etc.
In short, to me, these people are a cancer in tourism. They act like they’re above the rules, especially when it comes to taking photos, think they’re all-powerful, and on top of that, I don’t think they contribute anything to the local economy… Besides matcha tea, paddleboarding, and vegan food, all they do is make videos.
Sure, I’m not saying some influencers don’t stand out, but 99% of them are just doing completely useless stuff…
I've traveled quite a bit in Vietnam over the past few years—from the southern delta to bustling cities and even some small islands—but what really sticks with me is the north, the high mountains.
Up there, there's something different—maybe slower, more raw. The morning markets with ethnic groups, women in traditional clothes, the colors...
The stilt houses, kids following you and laughing for no reason, the terraced rice fields—it almost feels unreal at times, so vast and quiet, yet so human and simple.
You often hear that Sapa has become too touristy, and that's partly true, especially in the center. But as soon as you move a little farther away, everything changes quickly. The landscapes open up, encounters feel more natural, and you rediscover something truly authentic.
I think it's that contrast that struck me—the difference between what you imagine before going and what you actually discover when you take the time.
And you—what memory do you hold onto from Vietnam? A particular place that touched you more than others?
Hi everyone,
I'm planning a short 15-day trip to Turkey in January 2027.
My idea is to spend a few days in Istanbul,
then head down to Cappadocia (2 days of travel),
then make my way to Ephesus (with a stop in Pamukkale),
and return via the Aegean coast.
I’d really love to visit Cappadocia before heading to Ephesus (a must-see).
Has anyone done this route before?
I’d also love to hear your great tips for accommodation in Istanbul or elsewhere.
Hello everyone on this forum!
I know in advance that what I'm about to say here won't please everyone, but honesty is a virtue, isn't it?
Here's the thing: for many years now, I've noticed a habit in French-speaking posts of using abbreviations left and right, as if to show that we're "in the know." Let me explain with a few examples:
- - In discussions about Peru, I see "Aguas" for "Aguas Calientes." And if it's Mexico, well, it'll be "Aguas" for "Aguascalientes"!
- - For Guatemala, "travelers" will say "Guaté." Come on, saying "Guatemalas" would maybe be the undeniable sign that you know nothing about the country???
- - Back from Indonesia, many will talk about how familiar they've become with the country's language: "bahasa." Of course, everyone will know what you're talking about, but it still gets on my nerves because the language (one of the many languages) of Indonesia is "bahasa Indonesia." "Bahasa" actually means "language," and you'll find this word of Indian origin ‘Bhāṣā’ (it's Sanskrit originally) outside Indonesia too: in Thailand, for example, any language will be "phasa" as in "phasa thai" (official Thai), "phasa isan" (what's spoken in northeastern Thailand), "phasa angkrit" = English, etc.
Am I an incorrigible nitpicker? Maybe. But I'd also find it ridiculous if a foreigner came and told me they visited "Monte" during their trip to France, when it was actually Monte Carlo.
I read a lot in English and don't think I've encountered such a habit among English speakers.
Who’d like to share their best and worst travel memories in a few lines?
For me, it’s watching the TAJ MAHAL at sunrise and getting chased by dogs at the top of a mountain pass in GREECE on the way back from ISTANBUL.
THANKS GUYS
This is my 15,000th post, and it's a message I would have preferred never to write.
Patrick—Yangguizi—won’t be returning from his trek in Uganda. His health betrayed him in the mountains.
Like many of you, I laughed until I couldn’t anymore at his travel stories. I met him in Shanghai, then in Istanbul... We scoured restaurants—he was an incredible expert on world cuisines. We relived Korea, China. Always brilliant, so sharp, so funny, so down-to-earth. Being even a little bit his friend was something to be proud of. I think I envied him.
Patrick is still out there, of course...
He found his happiness running across the world. He’s on his path. He never doubted that "the traveler doesn’t even know if he’ll return one day."
Not sure this would’ve suited him, but his departure devastates me.
Alright,
Farewell, you foreign devil. Safe travels.
hello to all travelers with their eyes wide open to the desert...
I’ve always wondered what I was "doing" on this earth. And why my father, who died a few months after I was born—a former youngest French resistance fighter—joined the First Saharan Motorized Company in Atar and spent the rest of his life repairing army engines in Algeria, Mauritania, Senegal, Mali (which didn’t exist under that name back then), Morocco, and finally Algeria, where my mother was born and raised. (Believe me, it’s not "cool" being the child of a soldier in a country occupied by France, and even less so the child of a "pied-noir.")
Of course, I never got an answer: the dead don’t talk, and the army doesn’t either.
But here’s the thing—I had photos...
So naturally, one day I hit the road. I wanted to see, to understand.
It’s thanks to VF that I was able to do a little research on crossing the Morocco-Mauritania border, and I’m grateful to its members, just as I’m grateful to all those who welcomed me on the road for 14 years.
For the past few weeks, I’ve been wondering if I should talk about this or not...
It turns out the Mauritanians changed my life by asking for my help... And that started as early as February 2012... (Did I owe them something? No answer to that question.)
Ah, the irony—they saw me coming. But when you’re handed sick children and begged to do something, what would you have done? I’d worked in a hospital, so I knew a bit about the rules to follow. I didn’t hesitate.
And well, over all these years, I met doctors, surgeons, and together we organized care, evacuations of children, training for surgeons—even trying to stop children from having to travel outside their country. It was never easy. I’d like to thank those who supported us, as well as *La Chaîne de l’Espoir*, *La Fondation Face au Monde*, and everyone who built bridges between our two countries.
Unfortunately, despite the constant efforts of Mauritanian doctors and surgeons, some children couldn’t be helped in time. Today, I want to talk about four siblings—orphans of their mother—suffering from congenital glaucoma causing irreversible blindness. Their case was entrusted to me in 2020, just weeks before the big lockdown. We couldn’t do anything for them then, but when their father asked me for a gift, I rushed to my computer and wrote a story.
Through a tale, the children take a great journey, explore their country, and fulfill a dream. I never thought this book would be published—it was, in 2023.
This book pays tribute to Mauritania. It’s a message for those who know nothing about the hardships of life there, carrying both the harshness and beauty of an immense desert where you can travel by 4x4, bike, on foot, or by camel in complete safety. It bears witness to the kindness of Mauritanians toward travelers.
As a woman traveling alone in my vehicle—a now-rusted old Mercedes that no longer runs—I had the most beautiful encounters of my life there (I’ve seen other parts of the world...). The blind children of Choum, Atar, Nouadhibou, and Nouakchott will forever be in my heart.
Volunteer readers transcribed the book into a free audio version for the visually impaired. It’s available in sound libraries in France, the *Fondation Valentin Haüy*, and the Swiss Romande library.
I made my last trip to Mauritania in my old 4x4 to distribute the book everywhere, especially to its heroes and the school for the visually impaired in Nouakchott.
After that, I thought it was time to close the chapter because I no longer have the means or the strength to travel.
My publishers chose this title for it: *The Blue Eyes of the Desert*.
This publication helped a mission of Swiss volunteer ophthalmologists come to operate on glaucomas in Mauritania. I’m thrilled because they come back every year!
This adventure is ending, yes—everything must come to an end—but ultimately, it was born here, on the VF site!! So yes, I had to say it: THANK YOU!!!!!
Hi everyone,
I’m Loulou, a French expat who’s been living in Southeast Asia for about fifteen years, currently in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. A passionate walker at heart, I’ve trekked in Nepal (Thorung La, Mardi Himal), India, Vietnam, and I’m still planning new hikes (Char Dham, Langtang, Annapurna).
I’ve just published my first travel journal, recounting three months of walking and encounters across India. A portion of the sales goes to an educational center I support in Kep, for children whose parents work in the salt marshes.
I’m also working on a second book about Nepal with a musician friend, focusing on the Mardi Himal trek—two independent perspectives on the same journey.
Happy to swap stories with you about the Himalayas, India, Southeast Asia, or just the urge to hit the road and walk far from home.
Safe travels,
Loulou
Hi! It was totally by chance that I stumbled upon VoyageForum (an ad online and a story lol), and I’ve been reading some really old posts from 2011 about Thai massage schools—discussions on how to get by, accommodation, prices, etc. It reminded me of my own experience: I kept things simple by staying with a local family during my entire trip. I only shared all the expenses with them, which, I’ll admit, was super cheap… and I often traveled with them, which naturally opened a lot of doors for me. To start, at the school in Salaya, my Thai friend immediately connected me with Teacher Phong (the school’s mentor and teacher of teachers, a former monk). I was supposed to join a group session with other foreigners, but for some reason I don’t know, I got two days of private lessons for free with this expert… incredible! And on top of that, he loved France! It was an amazing experience. I "discovered" massage by chance—the Thai family just told me: "Try it, you’ll see!" (I’d had a pretty intense massage in the capital before 😅… but the next day, I felt unbelievably great!))
Every morning, I’d take a taxi (chosen by the Thai family at prices that beat all the competition) to this school—I’ve forgotten the name of the little village now… right in the heart of the countryside. Then, in the evenings, I’d keep practicing massage on all the family members… and they’d teach me Thai at the same time!))
Since then, I’ve practiced a bit, with lots of positive feedback. Following Teacher Phong’s advice—he thought my pressure was deep, firm, and precise—he strongly encouraged me to take this seriously.
I love Thailand so much. It’s a whole different way of living… and it’s a real blessing, even if I couldn’t live there full-time. Anyway, that was an unforgettable memory, and sometimes the Thai family and I still say hi—from 2011, 2013… right up to today!
"It seems to me that poverty would be less painful in the sun" wrote Aznavour...
Not sure...😕 Who can prove that people in hot countries are happier than others?
What do you think?
Is it better to live in Montpellier than in Lille?
Are the Pygmies happier than the Inuit?
Are Canadians less happy than the people of Louisiana?
Are there more French expats in hot countries?
And your travels? Do you choose your destinations based on the climate?
Do you rejoice when a bit of sunshine appears?
Hi everyone, just this once I’m not posting for a travel story, but to share a thought for Venezuela.
If you didn’t know—since it’s not making headlines—the country was hit by two 7.5-magnitude earthquakes last week. Over 2,200 people have died, more than 50,000 are missing, and some coastal towns have been completely destroyed.
Maybe when the scale of the humanitarian crisis becomes clear, our media will cover it a bit more... especially since earthquakes with this many casualties usually make the front page, but there’s been nothing in France.
So here’s a thought for this country, which, whatever you think of its politics, is a true jewel of South America, both for its landscapes and its people.
hi there
I’d like to invite you to discover my coastal province in central Vietnam: Quang Ngai.
This year, my province has really improved its infrastructure—mountains, countryside, and sea are all authentic here.
No harassers or thieves, and no Russians either.
A local lunch costs around 1 €.
A *** hotel room is about 25 €, and you can find hotels right on My Khe Beach.
We have a specialty: *banh xeo*—10 crepes for just 1.5 €.
You can rent motorbikes to explore the province and maybe visit the many ethnic minorities.
I live here—I’m not selling anything, but I can help if needed (my father-in-law is a traditional Vietnamese doctor and he’s very skilled).
Hi everyone! 😉
I’m Typhaine, 35 years old. Five years ago, I left France for a solo round-the-world trip—no planes, just a van, hitchhiking, cycling, and even a canoe in the Amazon! Today, I work as a naturalist guide in Argentine Patagonia.
Wherever I go, my compass stays the same: observing and photographing wildlife, which I deeply admire and respect.
My project: I’d love to share this experience through a sustainable, authentic, and immersive nature tourism initiative. But to build something meaningful, I need to understand how other nature enthusiasts experience their own adventures.
If you:
Are over 20 years old
Have a true passion for Nature
Have already taken at least one trip lasting more than 3 nights (in your country or abroad) in your life
Promise: I’m not selling anything, this isn’t marketing. Your answers are 100% anonymous and will only help me shape this wild project.
A huge thank you to everyone for your help and kindness! Looking forward to chatting in this thread 😛
(Dear admins, this is purely a collaborative effort for my project study, with no commercial purpose. Thank you so much for your support!)
Photo: Grizzly Bear (Ursus arctos horribilis), female on the left and her cub on the right. Photo taken by me in Alaska, Denali National Park.
It’s something we often notice in this forum—and many others—this behavioral shift.
A long-time member, or even a new one, asks a question.
They get one or more answers, some brief, some detailed, and then... nothing???
Not even a simple thank you!!!
From what I’ve gathered, if the answers don’t align with what they wanted to hear, it seems natural for the asker to just disappear!! 😕
Unless—(and I fear this is the case)—basic politeness is no longer part of our society????
I spent 3 weeks in Bali last summer (+ 3 nights on Gili Meno and a day trip to Kawah Ijen in Java). So I wanted to see what ChatGPT could suggest for comparison...
Here’s the prompt I gave:
"You’re a local expert guide for Bali.
- Plan a 20-day itinerary for Bali with a side trip to Gili Meno and a day trip to Kawah Ijen in Java without staying overnight.
- I’m traveling with my wife, and I love visiting historical sites, hiking, relaxing at the beach, snorkeling, and exploring rice terraces...
- For the duration of the stay, I don’t want more than 8 places to sleep, and I’d like to stay at least 2 days at each stop to avoid unpacking too often. Except for the last night, where I’m okay with just one night near the airport.
- I prefer neighborhoods that are walkable and try to avoid typical tourist traps, though I don’t want to miss the must-see spots. So suggest a mix of iconic sites and hidden gems.
- Recommend hotels or guesthouses with a budget of 50 to 100 € per night, including breakfast. Make suggestions in areas popular with travelers, specifying the vibe (I prefer quiet), and consider safety and proximity to attractions.
- For lunch and dinner, suggest two to three restaurants that are well-rated by customers.
- Give me a day-by-day program with details on travel times, visiting times for each point of interest, and recommendations for transportation (taxi, train, bike, etc.).
Estimate the total cost of the trip, including accommodations, food, transportation, and activities, and suggest two tips for saving money in each category.
- Don’t make anything up—be realistic about travel times, take into account the opening dates and hours of sites, and give me the entry fees for places to visit.
- Ask me all the questions until you’re 95% sure you understand what’s being asked. Don’t generate your response until you’ve understood."
The AI asked for a few clarifications:
"Great request—I can build you a really optimized and enjoyable itinerary, but to be 95% sure I hit the mark, I need a few key clarifications (this will really influence the pace, areas, and accommodations)."
In the end, it proposed a program very close to what we actually did.
I’ll skip its accommodation and restaurant suggestions...
Its proposal:
"Ubud (4 nights) => we did 5 nights
Sidemen (2 nights)
Amed (3 nights) => we’d planned 2 nights
Gili Meno (3 nights) => we did Gili between Sidemen and Amed
Munduk (3 nights) => we did 2 nights before Pemuteran
Pemuteran (3 nights) with Ijen => we did 4 nights
Sanur (2 nights + 1 last night) => we chose Jatiluwih instead of Sanur
It suggested "activities" (and accommodations too):
IN UBUD:
- Walk around central Ubud (1–2h)
- Campuhan Ridge Walk
- Tegalalang Rice Terrace
- Tirta Empul
- Gunung Kawi
- Massage / market / slow café
IN SIDEMEN:
- Rice terrace hike (2–3h)
- Cooking class
IN AMED:
- Snorkeling
- Japanese Shipwreck
- Beach + relaxation
- Volcano sunset
ON GILI:
- Snorkeling at Gili Meno Turtle Point, Nest Underwater Statues
IN MUNDUK:
- Jungle & waterfall hike - Munduk Waterfall + Melanting Waterfall
- Loop: 3–4h (perfect for your level)
- Ulun Danu Bratan Temple
- Twin Lakes
IN PEMUTERAN
- Snorkeling: Menjangan Island
For Kawah Ijen, it detailed the day well:
👍 from Pemuteran = best possible option
12 PM: leave hotel (we left at 10 PM)
1 PM: ferry
3 PM: arrival in Java + transfer
11 PM: start ascent
2 AM–6 AM: volcano
Return to Bali around 11 AM–12 PM (we got back at 4 PM)
👍 still very intense, but doable with an agency
💰 ~80–120 €/person all-inclusive
IN SANUR:
- Relaxation
- Quiet beach
- Proximity to airport (30 min)"
I’ve kept the habit of blowing my nose in the sink and then washing my hands—a custom I picked up in India. Sometimes, non-travelers are shocked when they catch me in the act... 🤪
Also, when I run out of toilet paper, it doesn’t bother me—unless I’ve got company over... 🤪
Just got back from walking a friend’s dog (while they’re on vacation), wearing a djellaba and Tibetan boots... 😏😏😏 Oh, for sure, if I’d run into locals, I probably would’ve shocked them? 😏
Anyway, as long as I’m not spitting on the floor at a restaurant or squatting on the side of a highway with a water bottle in hand...
After taking a little trip around the world, I came back a few months ago with an idea in mind.
I mostly do diving, and I love observing animals in their natural habitat without disturbing them.
During the trip, I realized it was quite complicated to know where and when to see certain species.
For example:
where to dive with sharks or manta rays
where you might get a chance to swim with whales
I even discovered thresher sharks during my trip… I didn’t even know this species existed before, even though they’re incredible to see.
We spent a ton of time searching for info all over the place, especially on social media, without ever getting a clear picture.
So I started putting all this together on my own, in the form of a map, to make it easier to visualize where to go depending on the seasons.
I recently put a first version online (it’s called Fauneya).
There are probably mistakes, inconsistencies, or things to improve, and that’s partly why I’m posting here.
I’d really love to know how you all go about planning this kind of trip.
As part of my Master’s thesis, I’m currently conducting a public survey on a topic that concerns all of us when planning a trip: artificial intelligence and the role of human contact in travel planning.
These days, we’re using more and more digital tools to find ideas, compare options, and book trips... but is the role of human advisors still essential? At what moments? And for what types of trips?
The survey is anonymous and takes about 7 minutes.
It’s aimed at anyone who travels (or has traveled) for leisure, whether you plan everything yourself or go through an agency.
While browsing the forum to gather info for my upcoming trip to Thailand, I often see the terms "traveler," "great traveler," and also "tourist"—so what’s the nuance for you?
Hello,
We’re finalizing the plans for our upcoming trip to China in May 2025. The second-to-last stop will be in Zhangjiajie, where we’ve planned to stay for 2 full days before heading to Shanghai.
We’re traveling solo using local transport and have arranged to stay in the city of Zhangjiajie.
We’ve seen that there’s a lot to see:
Tianmen Mountain, the Grand Canyon and the glass bridge, Zhangjiajie National Park, and that the sites are quite far apart with fairly expensive entry fees.
We’re thinking of dedicating one day to the national park and the Grand Canyon (glass bridge) and one day to Tianmen Mountain.
But we’re not sure if this plan is realistic—any thoughts would be much appreciated!
I should be serving a warming drink to the participants in the discussion about gardens and parks that provide us with beautiful photos, I could mention the delicious buttery scent wafting from bakeries in the thread about returning to France, but my heart, its powerful pulse that nourishes my entire being, is elsewhere.
Dasht-e Lut, Yazd, Esfahan, Bam, Kerman, Qeshm, Hormuz—a melody, a prayer at the heart of desire.
A dream, an unattainable fantasy? No. Not anymore.
A very serious Italian travel agency is organizing this trip for 6 people this winter. I’m signed up, I’m going, I’m living. Maybe.
"But you’re completely crazy!!!!"
I know... I know that every civilization, every society has a vital need to create scapegoats to define and justify itself, pathetically. And Iran is one of them, top of the list. I laugh or sigh, and it doesn’t bother me.
But that unchanging red, deep red and garnet, so beautiful in itself, in all the Western chancelleries repeats, whispers, shouts: don’t go, don’t go, don’t go, you’re putting yourself in danger and we can’t do anything for you. You’ll be turned into mere bargaining chips, into arguments for endless negotiations. Fear must be instilled, its power absolutely preserved, no concessions made to the enemy. The information (how many French hostages, real or fake, compared to the number of travelers?) is always lacking.
Traveling becomes a merciless confrontation between desire, the vital pulse, and anxiety, its ghosts.
Hi everyone, here’s our itinerary. Arriving on the evening of December 13th. Departing on January 7th.
Thanks in advance for your tips and valuable feedback.
Manila – 1 night
Coron – 4 nights
Coron to El Nido cruise – 2 nights
El Nido – 4 nights
Port Barton – 5 nights
Flight from Puerto Princesa to Vigan
Vigan – 2 nights
Sagada – 2 nights
Banaue – 2 nights
Bagabag – 1 night
Manila – 1 night
I’ve only booked the flight to Manila and the Manila/Coron flight so far. Is it possible to book boat trips, accommodations, and the Puerto Princesa flight last-minute?
Really disappointed with Costa Rica! Pura vida? The scam of the century!
(Costa Rica pure emptiness).
The country where animals are free and people are in cages.
3 weeks in December in this country and never again. Imagine the trailer of a movie that seems interesting, and when you go see it, you realize it’s a flop and the best moments were in the trailer.
Well, that’s exactly how we felt with Costa Rica pure emptiness.
My wife and I have traveled quite a bit and didn’t expect to be so wrong about a place.
On the main routes, we visited:
San José
Alajuela
Limón, Cahuita, Puerto Viejo, Manzanillo (Caribbean side)
Jaco, Quepos, Manuel Antonio (Pacific side)
And a few short stops in intermediate towns.
Our dissatisfaction grew gradually like this:
When we arrived at the hotel, the taxi dropped us off on a small street in front of a white metal gate with ground-floor windows barred. We looked at it skeptically, but the sign matched.
He approached the gate, rang the bell, the buzzer sounded, and the door opened slightly. The hotel wasn’t bad for the price, a 10-minute walk from downtown, but with a "Fleury-Mérogis" vibe guaranteed.
So far, so good.
After showering and regaining our bearings, we headed downtown.
What started to unsettle us on the way was seeing houses with bars on the ground-floor windows and even on the second floor.
At first, we thought the hotel’s neighborhood wasn’t great.
Downtown San José:
It’s a generic city, not very exotic, with a pedestrian street and a small mercado where you can eat local food without frills. Very few tourists—if any—which let you blend in with the locals. We had lunch and struggled to make ourselves understood because, aside from one or two shops, English wasn’t spoken.
On the way back to the hotel, we took a different route, and while chatting and strolling, my wife pointed out a beautiful two-story white house completely barricaded like Fort Knox.
From that moment, we started noticing the facades of houses and buildings, and wow, it was creepy—most looked like prisons, some even with barbed wire.
Though put off, we told ourselves it was probably a big-city thing and the rest of the country couldn’t be like this.
So far, so good.
We relaxed at the hotel and had a drink at the bar. Night falls early, around 5:30 PM. By 7:30 PM, we headed back downtown for dinner. A bit unsettling for a capital—downtown was almost deserted, and aside from fast-food chains, very few restaurants were open, with hardly anyone on the streets.
Bars with security guards out front.
I won’t say we felt unsafe that night, but once it got dark, we realized the bars on the windows weren’t for nothing. First day in, and our impression was already mixed.
The next day, we explored the city and surroundings, and our feelings didn’t change.
So far, so good.
Off to Cahuita by bus—4 hours of travel.
The landscapes are very green but quickly become monotonous. The road runs alongside the forest and passes through a few towns and villages, and even in the countryside, there were just as many prison-like houses.
The bus dropped us off at Cahuita’s terminal station—only four of us got off. It’s a village, or rather, a small town. Cahuita is basically one straight road and a perpendicular one, and honestly, doubt started to creep in.
A few restaurants that add 13% tax and 10% service charge—so 23% extra. We dropped our stuff at the hotel and went to explore. In 20 minutes, we’d seen it all. We had lunch and planned to check out the famous park.
Entry is by donation—well, the "entry" is a joke. There’s a path along the forest by the sea, and that’s it.
Nothing’s going right anymore.
We thought it was a total scam, but since we hadn’t gone far, we decided to come back the next day to explore further.
We returned to the hotel, relaxed, and around 8:00 PM, we went out for dinner. Only two restaurants were open, and the streets were deserted.
Creepy!
The next day, we explored the so-called park more thoroughly and really got it.
A path along the forest by the sea—2 hours there and 2 hours back, where you see animals that feel like showing their faces.
A total joke—"all that for this?"
The beach was full of wood debris and coconut husks. We wondered if the photos online were edited because the sea, very rough, wasn’t the azure blue we’d seen in pictures.
But calling this a park is a joke—it’s like a new concept.
When we thought about the reviews online, we started to suspect that professionals with interests in the country were monitoring and countering any negative feedback that could harm their business.
Too bad we didn’t check the negative reviews beforehand—we did while we were there, and it helped. We wondered if we’d become too demanding after all our travels, but no—when something’s bad, it’s bad.
Manuel Antonio’s park is even more ridiculous—there’s a short path along the sea for about 500 meters, and then nothing. You have to climb through mud and hack your way through the forest. We ended up barefoot because the mud was up to our calves. All that to see a raccoon and a few parrots flying overhead.
We didn’t expect Noah’s Ark, but we’ve seen more animals in Bali, Mexico, and Thailand while visiting temples or just walking around than in these so-called parks!
Puerto Viejo, not far from Cahuita and supposedly livelier—well, it couldn’t be worse!
According to Lonely Planet, it had a Caribbean vibe and wild nights, but maybe that was a long time ago. The good reggae music playing everywhere isn’t enough.
In the evening, Puerto Viejo was a bit livelier than Cahuita, but that’s not saying much. Very few tourists—if any—no night market, just two or three shops open selling $20 T-shirts. Same vibe as San José.
No big deal—we enjoyed the beach and the sun, which was reliable.
Our itinerary was supposed to include Tortuguero Park, but after talking to other travelers who’d just been, we changed our minds, knowing we’d be visiting Manuel Antonio Park on the Pacific side.
To get back to the Pacific side, you have to take the bus and go through San José again—5 hours this time—then switch bus terminals and another 4.5 hours to Quepos.
A stopover town to get to Manuel Antonio’s beach and park!
A town just like the others we’d seen—deserted as soon as the sun sets, and not exactly bustling during the day either. (Where are all the tourists?)
Still as many bars on the windows and that feeling of being in the wrong place.
7 km later: Manuel Antonio beach and park.
The beach is very beautiful and quite large, but don’t expect turquoise blue water—the waves stir up the sand, giving the water a brownish color.
Along the beach, shops and restaurants for about 300 meters, and then nothing. At night, after sunset, the town shuts down too.
Manuel Antonio Park is highly praised for its wildlife, so we were eager to see it. When you express dissatisfaction with Cahuita or Manzanillo parks, the response is always, "But you should’ve gone to Monteverde or Manuel Antonio!" No matter what you do or say, they’ll tell you, "You should’ve gone there or here."
Back to our famous park—entry was about $16, and contrary to what we’d heard, it wasn’t crowded!
Guides at the entrance with spotting scopes offered their services for about $30.
The park: a mix of boardwalk and dirt paths through the forest, sometimes running alongside beautiful coves and beaches.
As soon as we entered, a crowd was taking photos of a deer eating leaves.
A little further on, a guide with a group of five stopped. The guide raised his arm and set up his spotting scope! He showed them, about 100 meters away, a hummingbird perched on a branch. Some, looking through the scope, exclaimed, "Oh my God! Amazing! Incredible!"
For a moment, we thought they’d discovered a unicorn or were in Jurassic Park and had just crossed paths with a T-Rex!
The concept is comical—looking at a bird or another animal through a spotting scope because it’s too far away. Isn’t that what TV is for?
For our part, we saw monkeys, ants, an armadillo, an iguana, and the backside of a sloth climbing a tree. Amazing, incredible!
We stayed a few days in Manuel Antonio to enjoy the beach, changing hotels often because prices varied wildly from one day to the next for shameful services. On top of that, they’d quote a price in dollars and convert it at their discretion—thieves!
Alajuela, a city near the airport, has a two-story mall and a local market downtown! No interest except its proximity to the airport.
What we liked:
The climate and, in hindsight, San José—the most authentic city we visited.
What we didn’t like, in addition to what we’ve already mentioned:
Costa Ricans aren’t very friendly or communicative. English is barely spoken, not even by doctors at Quepos Hospital, where my wife ended up with food poisoning (thanks, Google Translate). The widespread obesity among Costa Ricans, who eat like Americans. The insecurity. The eco-hipsters who leave their $150 lodges in minivans with guides to visit parks and other sites, then return to barricade themselves in their fortresses at nightfall (oh my God, amazing, incredible). The blue signs at the entrance of towns that accept this payment method: "We accept American Express." Parking lots that become paid just because a guy is watching your car. Prices displayed in dollars. The cost of living (hotels, restaurants, taxes). Landscapes that are too green and not flowery enough. Beaches—nothing exceptional. Pollution in cities where big American trucks rule. Sewage dumped directly into the sea. Aside from the jungle, there’s nothing to visit—no ruins, monuments, or anything worth seeing.
In short, my wife and I think the hype about this supposedly eco-friendly country is overrated. It’s just the trendy destination of the moment. There are much better, cheaper, and more authentic places.
In hindsight, we keep the good memories and our beautiful photos, but if we had to do it over...
Before signing off, a little message to those who don’t like hearing opinions different from theirs:
Well, some things aren’t up for debate. And to those who’d have us believe that in 3 weeks, we don’t have the right to criticize a country or express our feelings—how can you praise it in so little time? What a scam. Costa Rica is a money pit. Pura vida? Pure cosmic emptiness.
If you like spending your evenings barricaded in your cozy hotel after dark, this country is for you.
For everyone else: run!
Hello,
Since the war between Russia and Ukraine, nothing is simple anymore for traveling to Belarus due to sanctions.
No more direct flights from the EU to Minsk.
Driving is a huge hassle, especially crossing through Poland at the only open border in Brest—you can wait 2, 3, or even 4 days just to get through by car.
The least painful driving option is to come via Lithuania and cross at the only open border, with a minimum wait time of 8 hours, sometimes up to 20 hours or more!!
Controls are very strict and annoying on both the Lithuanian and Belarusian sides. Avoid bringing alcohol, food, or cigarettes—everything will end up in the trash, especially when leaving Belarus for Vilnius, where the Lithuanians are tough, even with EU citizens.
The joy I once knew when visiting my wife in Minsk is sadly over—it’s now a real ordeal.
The fastest solution is to fly. My wife travels to France by taking a bus to Kaunas in Lithuania, where you can catch a flight (though not daily) to Paris Beauvais or Charleroi in Belgium with Ryanair, for example.
For the return trip, it’s the same: a flight to Kaunas and then a direct bus from the airport to Minsk.
The bus crossing is quicker than driving—the 250 km journey, including border checks, takes about 6 to 8 hours for buses leaving Lithuania around midnight, but controls are still strict at the border.
The biggest challenge is finding flight schedules that align with the bus routes between the two countries, given the unpredictable border crossing times.
Now, my wife travels via Charleroi in Belgium (near Brussels), and you can take a train to Paris. Alternatively, you can fly into Beauvais and take a bus to Paris (Porte Maillot).
For those driving, note that EU insurance and assistance policies no longer work in Belarus or Russia. You’ll need to get local insurance, usually limited to third-party liability (I don’t think full coverage exists?), as well as mandatory medical insurance. This is available at the border.
You now have to pay highway tolls—no more BELTOLL boxes. Instead, you pay a flat fee for the duration of your stay. Stop at the first gas station after crossing from Lithuania to fill up on fuel and cigarettes.
From what I know, Lithuania bans carrying more than 60 € in cash, but there’s no limit for USD (though it’s capped at $10,000??).
With a Visa card, you can now withdraw 1,000 rubles per week (about 270 €)—two months ago, it was only 500 rubles!!
For now, you can still pay by card in shops and gas stations.
However, major retailers like KORONA (which may be Russian-owned??) no longer accept foreign Visa cards.
Unfortunately, the additional sanctions announced by the U.S. on August 5, 2025, against Russia—and possibly Belarus—aren’t promising for the future.
After 20 years of visiting Belarus, I’m truly saddened to see the joy of living in this country with my wonderful wife turn into such a bleak situation, all because of human folly.
Hi everyone!
I’m putting together our travel itinerary for Veneto at the end of April. And the more I look and research potential sites to visit, the more I find!
We’ll only be there for a week—my family and I—including 3 days in Venice. So we have to make some choices...
I plan to rent a car when we arrive in Venice and head straight to Bergamo, which would be our first stop. We’d leave the car at the airport when we return to Venice so we can explore the city at our leisure.
What do you think:
1 night in Bergamo (a 2h15 drive from Venice airport),
1 night in Garda,
1 night in Verona,
1 in Padua, and
3 in Venice—would that be doable?
Thanks in advance for your tips and experiences! :)
Now that the curtain has fallen on the past year, it’s time to see what’s happening around here.
It seems pretty quiet, but I’ll read more in detail later.
First, I need to tell you all an anecdote.
My eldest little girl, in her third year of law school, was really scared she wouldn’t pass the year.
I told her:
“Trust yourself, you’ve worked so hard, and worst case, if you fail, you’ll just redo the year.”
“But I don’t think I’ll make it—they changed the rules, and if I mess up even one unit, I have to start all over.”
I knew her grades weren’t exactly stellar, and with what I was about to say, I wasn’t taking much of a risk.
“Here’s the deal, sweetheart: if you pass, I promise I’ll take you to India, just the two of us.”
I have to admit, India is a country I’ve talked about so much to all my grandchildren that in their minds, it’s become a magical, mythical place (hmm).
July had barely begun when my phone rang, her name flashing on the screen.
“Mamido, I did it!”
My promise came rushing back—oh no, oh no, oh no!
“Congratulations, sweetheart!”
A little shyly, she said:
“Is the India trip still on?”
And me, replying:
“Of course it is!”
And that’s that—a promise is a promise, or you risk losing that precious trust that keeps hearts warm and at peace.
We’re leaving in February. Only 8 days—yikes, the carbon footprint!
But we can’t miss her tutorials, or she’ll be kicked out.
Personally, that works just fine for me.
Going to India has become a challenge for me. It’s far, it’s exhausting, I sweat, I hate mosquitoes, the spices bother my mouth when I used to love them. There’s noise all the time—at night, the dogs bark nonstop, and we almost get run over. I’ll get lost in the streets because my sense of direction has vanished. I don’t like rice anymore. All that chaos and those cultural differences that once enchanted me now just overwhelm me.
But I promised.
The upside—and it’s a big one—Raman, the same driver I’ve had forever, will be at the airport with a sign with our names. We’ll stop at the same little shop for chai (or tea, plain and simple) with that aroma that intoxicates me, halfway through the trip.
It’ll be a tiny trip—staying with friends, I’ll show her a few places I love: Chidambaram, Mamallapuram, and the clinic where I worked. Then we’ll head back.
My little girl will go home to her parents.
As for me, I’ll leave right away for our Scottish island with Homme for our chilly winter.
How can you love a country so much you want to live there, then suddenly reject it, no longer able to appreciate what once made it special?
That’s the mystery of love, I guess.
I’ve visited the U.S. four times myself, including two long road trips. The last one was just this past August...
I won’t be going back. I already felt guilty last August, but recent policies have finally convinced me: the humiliation of Zelensky, authoritarian excesses, Gestapo-like methods for detaining people of foreign origin, the murder of innocent people (a mother shot dead), corruption, insane "tariffs," skyrocketing healthcare costs for Americans, the abduction of foreign figures to secure oil, the requirement to disclose social media accounts, and now... threats and blackmail to forcibly take Greenland—a region that belongs to Denmark and thus the European Union!
The reality is that simply posting this could get me denied entry to the U.S.!
In this context, I just can’t keep spending money there. I loved my trips, but there are so many other countries with stunning landscapes to explore.
So I get why you’d want to travel there. I did, and I loved it. But once a country no longer respects any of the values that made us love it, why go?
How can we even consider traveling to a country that threatens to take one of our territories by force?
.
.
