Une question me passe par la tete cette apres midi:
Si j'organisais un mechant salon du voyage a velo vous viendriez ?
J'ai pense a la ville de Gex dans l'Ain.
Parce que je connais tres bien la municipalite, parce que c'est tres proche d'une grande ville bien desservie (Geneve),
parce que c'est situe sur le trace de tous les nordistes qui roulent vers le soleil en passant par les rives du lac Leman ou par le col de la Faucille depuis le Haut Jura, parce qu'il y a toute l'infrastructure necessaire pour cela dans cette ville, etc etc...
Comme idee originale, il pourrait y avoir obligation de venir a velo, (retour au choix ;-)
Camping en tente obligatoire egalement. Pour 1 ou 2 euros maxi.
Vie en groupe; Cuisine et achat de nourriture de facon collective...
Inviter un ou deux exposants du coin?
Autre? Si vous avez de bonnes idees elles sont les bienvenues bien sur.
Pour la date j'aurais bien vu debut juillet juste au depart des grandes vacances. ...Avant de s'elancer sur la route du Rhone dont le depart est a 15 km, ou la traversee des Grandes Alpes juste a cote egalement.
S'il n'y a que 4 ou 5 personnes cela ne derange pas. ...Vu qu'elles seront venu a velo et que tout le monde sera en camping ce sera forcement sympa...🙂
J'ai bon ?
Bonsoir à tous,
Pour mon premier message sur le site, je viens vous poser une question. J'ai acheté un vélo récemment après la retraite à la casse de mon ancien. Je pars en voyage à la fin de la semaine et je me retrouve avec un problème de pédales.
Le vélo est équipé de pédales Shimano 105, PD-1055 (voir les photos ci-jointes) et un pédalier Stronglight 100LX.
- Est-ce que vous connaissez ces pédales? J'ai cru comprendre en cherchant sur internet que ce sont des pédales de piste, difficiles à déclipser. Si je me trompe, quelles cales me faut-il et sont elles adaptables sur mes chaussures SIDI à cales Delta?
- J'ai acheté des pédales ordinaires sans clip chez Décathlon pour remplacer mes pédales pour les petits voyages ou trajets quotidiens: malheureusement la vis est très légèrement trop grosse pour s'installer sur le pédalier, comment connaitre la bonne taille à acheter?
- Est-ce que je peux mettre autre chose que des pédales et cales delta (style Keo ou SPD) avec le type de chaussures que je possède (photo), les pédales vont-elles se visser sur le pédalier (voir point ci-dessus)?
Merci de votre aide,
Max
Le vélo est équipé de pédales Shimano 105, PD-1055 (voir les photos ci-jointes) et un pédalier Stronglight 100LX.
- Est-ce que vous connaissez ces pédales? J'ai cru comprendre en cherchant sur internet que ce sont des pédales de piste, difficiles à déclipser. Si je me trompe, quelles cales me faut-il et sont elles adaptables sur mes chaussures SIDI à cales Delta?
- J'ai acheté des pédales ordinaires sans clip chez Décathlon pour remplacer mes pédales pour les petits voyages ou trajets quotidiens: malheureusement la vis est très légèrement trop grosse pour s'installer sur le pédalier, comment connaitre la bonne taille à acheter?
- Est-ce que je peux mettre autre chose que des pédales et cales delta (style Keo ou SPD) avec le type de chaussures que je possède (photo), les pédales vont-elles se visser sur le pédalier (voir point ci-dessus)?
Merci de votre aide,
Max
Bonjour,
Pour mon prochain voyage à vélo, je me pose la question de savoir si ça vaut le coup d'investir dans des pédales automatiques. Je lis parfois que c'est beaucoup mieux que les cale pieds traditionnels. Mais personnellement, en voyage, je roule souvent 10 heures, et même plus dans la journée, alors je me demande si les chaussures adaptées peuvent être supportées autant de temps. Et si le fait d'avoir toujours le pied dans le même axe est supportable pour de grandes étapes. Enfin, bien sur que mes pédales seraient de style "VTT". Mais est ce qu'on peut vraiment marcher comme avec de vrais chaussures, pour faire du tourisme, avec les chaussures de VTT ?
Pour mon prochain voyage à vélo, je me pose la question de savoir si ça vaut le coup d'investir dans des pédales automatiques. Je lis parfois que c'est beaucoup mieux que les cale pieds traditionnels. Mais personnellement, en voyage, je roule souvent 10 heures, et même plus dans la journée, alors je me demande si les chaussures adaptées peuvent être supportées autant de temps. Et si le fait d'avoir toujours le pied dans le même axe est supportable pour de grandes étapes. Enfin, bien sur que mes pédales seraient de style "VTT". Mais est ce qu'on peut vraiment marcher comme avec de vrais chaussures, pour faire du tourisme, avec les chaussures de VTT ?
Bonjour
Je compte faire le tour du sud de l'irlande à vélo du 9 au 23 juillet avec des copains. (Dublin-Cork-ring of kerry-Dublin) Simplement je ne sais pas où laisser les sacoches dont on se sert pour transporter les vélos dans l'avion pendant mes 2 semaines de trajet .Elles seraient trop lourdes à porter.
Je voudrais savoir comment on fait ceux qui ont connu ce probléme avant moi?
Sinon pensez vous que le trajet est réalisable en 2 semaines?
Merci d'avance.
Sinon pensez vous que le trajet est réalisable en 2 semaines?
Merci d'avance.
Cycling Through Provence's Big Climbs
In the autumn of 2011, Provence was hit by apocalyptic weather—torrential rain and a particularly violent east wind, reaching 130 kilometers per hour, whipping up waves as high as seven meters. It wasn’t the best time to venture outside. Yet, I told myself that after the storm, calm would return. I kept an eye on the weather forecast and noticed that starting November 10th, a favorable window should open for a little 600-kilometer cycling trip across Provence. The weather reports promised a high-pressure system that would keep the bad weather at bay over these highlands. That was all I needed to decide to set off. The planned route would take me through Provence’s biggest climbs: Mont Ventoux, Montagne de Lure, the Verdon Gorge, the Massif des Maures, and Sainte-Baume.
And so, despite my doubts, the call of adventure was stronger. The train pulled away, and once again, a journey began at Part-Dieu station. This time, I headed toward Haute-Provence for a cycling adventure. It would be my first solo bike trip. I was a little nervous—cycling with panniers makes you feel vulnerable to theft. I’d already been robbed while traveling in a group in Peru, and that experience left me deeply shaken. Alone, I hesitated. But no need to panic—I’d read accounts from long-distance cyclists who hadn’t been robbed, even if it does happen sometimes. I was particularly thinking of a young schoolteacher who had taken a sabbatical to cycle around the world. Her students had remarked, "Teacher, you’re not sporty—how will you manage to cycle around the world?" This young woman was full of resourcefulness. In South America, before flying to China, she locked her bike to a post to take care of a natural need. When she returned, the post had been torn out, and her bike—along with all her gear—was gone. It was a shock for many, but not for her. She boarded her flight to the Middle Kingdom, bought the essentials (including a new bike) once there, and continued her journey! Remembering this story, I almost felt ashamed of my cowardice. These were the thoughts running through my mind as the Rhône Valley rolled by toward Orange, the starting point of my Provençal adventure through the big climbs.
Day One: Orange to Sault via Mont Ventoux – 90 km
9:30 AM, I stepped off the train. With all my gear, I had to navigate the underground passage—no easy feat, given that my bike and luggage weighed 35 kilos. At this time of year, I expected some areas to be deserted, so I’d packed enough to bivouac comfortably. Once outside the station, the southern light flooded over me. I understood why people dream of retiring in these sun-drenched regions. As always, after disembarking from public transport, I had to get my bearings and decide which way to go. The sun, still low on the horizon, pointed east. The roar of fighter jet engines helped me locate the Air Base 115. That was all I needed to "reset the gyros."
As soon as I started pedaling, all my apprehensions vanished. The joy of discovery and physical effort took over, and euphoria washed over me. It’s amazing how emotions can shift from one moment to the next based on seemingly minor circumstances.
The weather was splendid—the forecast had predicted continuous showers, but it was completely wrong. I quickly left the city behind. Mont Ventoux loomed mysteriously, its dimensions hard to gauge. It was even more enigmatic with its summit hidden beneath swirling, mottled clouds clinging to the ridges. It reminded me of a great South American volcano. I struggled to imagine that in a few hours, I’d be up there under that blanket of mist.
The countryside was shaking off its autumnal nighttime dampness. The vineyards, interspersed with tall cypress hedges, confirmed I was in the magnificent Côtes du Rhône wine region. The distinctive Dentelles de Montmirail were very much in evidence. The air force base wasn’t far. I passed the runway’s end markers. A Mirage 2000 flew overhead in a tight turn, followed by another roaring into takeoff. It came straight at me before climbing sharply with a thunderous roar. Thirty years spent in that captivating world came rushing back. I recalled countless extraordinary human and technical experiences from my time in the service. But the purpose of this post isn’t to promote the air force—though I might post some articles one day about travels among men at war.
I continued on my way, leaving my past loves behind. As I pedaled, delightful names rolled by: Violès, Vacqueyras, Gigondas, Beaumes-de-Venise—the crème de la crème of the Côtes du Rhône Villages appellation. I let myself be enchanted by the vineyards and the little paths crisscrossing them. I started to doubt my route, though the imposing mass of Mont Ventoux in the distance acted like a giant beacon. At a crossroads, a car appeared. I approached to ask the driver for directions, but she didn’t even look at me and sped off, clearly frightened. I’d almost forgotten what a fearful world we live in, no doubt traumatized by all the horrors we see in the news and on TV.
The kilometers started adding up, but was my day’s goal too ambitious? It had been two months since I’d last ridden my bike. True, my last trip had been good training—the Route des Grandes Alpes—but that was two months ago. I can’t just take my bike out for a day trip; I need that sense of adventure to find the courage to exercise.
Two cyclists overtook me. Intrigued by my load, they struck up a conversation. They were skeptical when I told them I planned to cross Mont Ventoux that day. One of them pointed out a small chapel near the summit where I could bivouac sheltered. That motivated me even more to reach the top on this first stage. The chapel also had a mythical name for me—Sainte-Anne, the name of my parents’ villa. It was already noon, and I’d covered 50 kilometers. Malaucène appeared—the sacred village of Ventoux’s mad cyclists. Surprisingly, I didn’t see any other cyclists today. I remembered this place in June, teeming with aspirants for the king of summits. Before tackling the climb ahead, I needed to refuel. I enjoyed a pleasant gastronomic break at Max’s. At 1 PM, I started the most famous climb in cycling—21 kilometers, which would actually be 23. I knew it would be tough, especially with two handicaps: 50 kilometers already in my legs and 20 kilos of luggage. But I was counting on my tiny chainring, which let me climb trees to tackle the steep ramps.
I set off at a brisk pace along a deserted road. My speed held up for the first few kilometers. I quickly rose above the valley, the horizon widening. I was surprised to see no one on this world-renowned route among cycling enthusiasts. During the climb and descent, I’d only see five cyclists—but I’ll come back to that. I passed a sign explaining that the effort would be roughly equivalent to climbing the Col de la Bonnette. Having done the latter in September, I figured I’d be fine. I crossed paths with my first cyclist—a woman speeding downhill. After 12 kilometers, I hit slopes averaging 12%. I don’t know if the number 12 is cursed, but I got such a "bamboo" hit that I’d never experienced before. I thought I wouldn’t make it to the summit today. I stopped. My thighs burned so much I could barely walk—lactic acid overload. I looked for a relatively flat spot to pitch my tent. It was 3:30 PM, with two hours of daylight left. But I found nothing.
I got back on my bike, intending to stop as soon as I found a good bivouac spot. But nothing came up. However, my strength slowly returned, perhaps because the slope eased, though it remained around 10%. I entered the summit mists. A cyclist overtook me. I was in the zone where I had to pass the summit. Dusk caught me in the final difficulties. The atmosphere was downright austere. In the twilight, a kilometer from the summit, a cyclist was fixing his bike. I asked if he needed help. He made it clear he didn’t understand. So I asked, "Do you need some help?" His answer was clear: "No, thank you." He showed me his new inner tube. Inside, I thought, "Phew!" If I’d had to stop, sweating in the falling night with the cold intensifying, I’d have struggled to get going again. But he managed, and I continued into the twilight fog. I could barely make out the summit’s large antennas in the clouds, like immense ghosts trying to evade sight. The bike delivered sensations worthy of mountain racing. My goal was to quickly find the famous chapel in the descent to take shelter. As I glided down the southern slope, two cyclists without lights crossed my path in the night—probably heading to the station above, its lights visible in the fog.
I scanned the roadside in the dark for the chapel but saw nothing. After a kilometer or two, I lost all hope. I stopped to put on more clothes as the cold became intense. I had no idea where I could stop on these steep slopes to set up camp. Between the swirls of mist, I could intermittently see the Rhône Valley below, dotted with illuminated towns and villages. The sight was striking. What was I doing on this mountain at night? Then the miracle happened—the clouds parted, and from the ridge above me to the east, a beautiful full moon emerged, casting enough light to consider a nighttime descent to Sault, 26 kilometers away.
In this eerie atmosphere between the moon’s pale rays and patches of fog, I began my descent through a hazy, almost unreal world. The Ventoux’s characteristic white scree reflected the moonlight faintly, dimmed by the mist. In places, entire mountainsides were plunged into complete darkness, and I lost all sense of the road’s path. Then, around a tight bend caused by a land shift, the light returned. It seemed extreme compared to the darkness I’d left behind. I could once again clearly see the road’s contours, though not its potholes or gravel patches. Still, I let the slope carry me, and the speed felt significant, though the low light prevented me from reading my speedometer. In these moments, concentration was at its peak—all senses alert, reflexes ready to react to the slightest incident that could lead to a fall.
I was relieved to see Sault’s lights growing closer. In less than an hour, I reached it, considering the final little climb that required one last push. This village, bustling in summer, was deserted at this time of year—almost dead. The first hotel I came across was closed. A quick shadow passed in a small sloping street. Before it disappeared into the darkness at a house corner, I chased after it and asked about accommodation options. Very kindly, I was directed to what was probably the only hotel open in November. I quickly found it, and the reception was open. I entered wearing my black balaclava, bought in the Ayacucho region—the birthplace of Peru’s Shining Path. At this late hour, I saw questioning glances directed at me. I prefaced, "This isn’t a hold-up." Clearly, the owners had a sense of humor—they started smiling. I took off my balaclava and asked for a room. No problem, and from that moment, the pressure eased. I really didn’t feel like going back out to find a spot to pitch my tent in the biting cold.
The stage had been nearly 100 kilometers, and it was the first. It had been two months since I’d touched my bike, and I probably lacked even minimal training, even though my last bike trip had been crossing the French Alps. I really had to dig deep to overcome my weakness on Ventoux’s steep section. I don’t remember ever having to search so deeply for the energy to keep going. I knew the stage I’d set for tomorrow was significant, with the climb up Montagne de Lure’s northern slope—Ventoux’s little sister, whose ascent is reputed to be endless, over 25 kilometers. I hoped this first day wouldn’t leave me too sore to avoid suffering excessively tomorrow.
For now, relaxation—a hot shower did me a world of good, followed by a good meal. I ate a delicious andouillette from Troyes, very fine, with a particularly successful herb seasoning. I loved it, and yet I’m from Lyon and pride myself on knowing a thing or two about andouillette—not just a sausage but a whole category! A bit chauvinistic, I had to admit, though reluctantly, that I found it better than the ones I usually eat in the Lyon region!
Day Two: Sault to Forcalquier via Montagne de Lure – 116 km
This morning, the weather was magnificent—the air clear, still, very fresh, and invigorating, as only the late season can offer on these Provençal highlands. In summer, they’re known for their scorching heat and drought, but often overlooked is how harsh they can be with cold and storms. Authors like Giono or Bosco described them and their inhabitants wonderfully in books like "Les Âmes Fortes."
The miracle of the night had worked. I wasn’t sore anywhere and felt in great shape. I set off well-equipped, but the effort and sun soon made me sweat. It was time to shed some layers—hat and gloves. A gentle warmth replaced the cold, making for excellent cycling conditions. On the road to Trinit, there was no traffic—only the occasional hunters’ cars parked in the distance. These vehicles were recognizable by their large cages, used to transport hunting dogs. Sometimes, the silence was broken by a distant gunshot. The deciduous forests were losing their foliage, taking on that dull brown hue of late autumn, though here and there, a tree or shrub still resisted, displaying vivid yellow or red. The meadows, their grass already scorched by the cold, were damp from the night’s heavy humidity. The low sun highlighted thousands of spider webs that had trapped insects during the warm season.
Behind me, Mont Ventoux dominated these vast spaces. As often, its imposing, stony summit was crowned with a blanket of clouds. What an impressive mountain—it’s always so hard to gauge its dimensions. I struggled to realize that last night I’d been at the summit and descended its immense southern ridge in the dark. I hoped to return one day in favorable conditions—daylight and no clouds—to enjoy the vast panorama from this unique summit.
Leaving the very Provençal village of Trinit, I tackled my first climb of the day—the Col de l’Homme Mort. The road rose moderately for five kilometers in gentle warmth. The view over the region widened, and I felt the sheer joy of pedaling. At a good pace, I overcame this first little challenge. Once at the pass, I couldn’t resist the ritual of photographing my bike in front of the sign, giving the name and altitude—1,213 meters.
The northern slope was austere and still in shadow. The cold bit again. The road was wet and covered with leaves in places. It wasn’t impossible that some treacherous patches of black ice lurked around a bend. I descended toward the Jabron Valley with caution. Suddenly, around a bend in a forest clearing, the freshly snow-covered Alps, gleaming in the sun, leapt into view, blocking the horizon. I thought I recognized the distinctive silhouette of the Écrins’ south face above a multitude of jagged peaks.
This snow and these mountains awakened a flood of memories of great joys, but I also thought of the guide and his client who had just lost their lives on the Grandes Jorasses’ north face, at the top of a route called the Linceul. The name comes from the face’s appearance—a great ice slope bordering the Grandes Jorasses’ north wall. It was first climbed by René Desmaison in 1968. He passed away a few years ago and, in his final wishes, asked that his ashes be scattered in the Dévoluy Massif at the foot of Pic de Bure, not far from here in these immense pre-Alpine folds.
At my feet, the Jabron Valley stretched almost endlessly east toward Sisteron. In the distance, the dark mass of Montagne de Lure’s north face loomed. This mountain shares similarities with Mont Ventoux. It has the same summit scree of bright limestone, the same forests climbing up to the final rocky stretch, and that blanket of clouds adding a secretive, austere touch to the scene.
I turned left past the town of Séderon and headed toward the little Col de la Pigière, which in a few kilometers allowed me to truly plunge into the beautiful Jabron Valley. I passed through several villages with charming local names—Saint-Vincent, Noyer-sur-Jabron. The river offered lovely views of its narrow gorges with clear, cold water. Autumn seemed less advanced here than on the plateau I’d just left. Many trees still wore brilliant colors, some revealing extraordinary hues—mixes of crimson, pink, and bright red.
Arriving in Noyer-sur-Jabron, I took a tiny road on the river’s right bank, leading in a few kilometers to the foot of Montagne de Lure. In the village of Valbelle, I picnicked on leftovers I’d brought from home—an old cheese and a somewhat stale loaf of bread. It was 1:30 PM. I began the long climb of about 25 kilometers. According to a friend who’s a cycling expert in the region, this section is tough. No wonder it’s called Ventoux’s little sister—the Mont Blanc of cyclists. The elevation gain on this side is still 1,200 meters, while Ventoux via Malaucène is nearly 1,600 meters.
I hoped to reach the summit before nightfall and avoid reliving a nighttime descent. The route wound through a vast forest, following the terrain’s folds. There was activity—mushroom hunters were busy searching for the coveted chanterelle. The climb, though never very steep (only one kilometer at 9%), was interminable. Though traffic was practically nonexistent, I was overtaken by a group of Harley bikers—I counted about forty. Perched high on their machines, hands in the air on wildly shaped handlebars, some with their feet nearly in the sky due to the high footpegs, they didn’t even glance my way. What’s this idiot doing, unable to ride a motorcycle and forced to climb these mountains on a bike with big bags! I wasn’t offended—real Harley purists often see other motorcyclists as renegades, so bikes are even lower on the totem pole! But I didn’t want to start a debate about motorcycles. In my youth, when I was a wild motorcyclist (22 accidents on two wheels), clans were divided into Japanese, German, Italian, and British bike owners. The latter, on their vibrating, oil-leaking machines, considered themselves the purest. But let’s not fight—there’s a statute of limitations, and it’s been nearly forty years.
As yesterday, a few kilometers below the summit, I entered the fog, and the light dropped suddenly. What a hostile mountain in these conditions! It heightened the sense of living an incredible experience. The conditions we encounter play a major role in how the adventure imprints on our memory. I realized once again that in France, you can feel like you’re very far away. Finally, after this very long climb, the Pas de Graille sign suddenly appeared out of the grayness. Strange! Below the sign, a kilometer marker indicated this same pass was over three kilometers away. Clearly, the climb continued. In these final kilometers through the scree, I gained another 130 meters of elevation. Finally, the road’s high point was reached—1,720 meters. It was cold and damp. I quickly covered up, added my balaclava under my helmet, and put on warm gloves. As I was about to start the descent, a car stopped at the summit, and one of the passengers was surprised to find a bike there in these chilly, twilight conditions.
A 20-kilometer descent led me to the village of Saint-Étienne-les-Orgues. I hoped to find a place to stay for the night. No such luck! Everything was clearly closed—no chance of finding shelter. Tonight was getting complicated. I already had exactly 100 kilometers in my legs and didn’t feel like pedaling anymore, especially at night. But I had even less desire to sleep outside. What to do to avoid it? The town of Forcalquier was 16 kilometers away—I hoped the road would descend. I set off in that direction. The first third was along a beautiful, lightly trafficked departmental road with a slight downhill—I pedaled hard. But it got tougher. I joined a busier road, and night had fallen. A several-kilometer climb finished the journey. I knew my magnetic lights weren’t very powerful—hence the danger. They were even less so on the climb because the slower I went, the less they illuminated. Cars coming the opposite way often saw me late and blinded me with their high beams. After passing, I was plunged into total darkness for a few seconds while my pupils readjusted to the night. I imagined those coming up behind me saw me with little warning, despite my slightly fluorescent jacket. When the roadside was clear, I always positioned myself to quickly jump off the road. But unfortunately, in this long final climb, a guardrail prevented any escape to the right in case of sudden braking behind me. That was even more anxiety-inducing since I was stuck at a snail’s pace. Time seemed long. I pedaled as hard as I could, on the verge of asphyxiation, trying to escape this dangerous situation as quickly as possible. My only reference point was the vehicles in front of me, letting me know the climb wasn’t over. Then suddenly, the ordeal ended—the road’s high point was reached. The town and its lights emerged from the void, and clarity returned. Phew! I glided down toward this little town bathed in light. On November 11th, I hoped to find an open hotel since I’d clearly exceeded 100 kilometers, and the idea of having to leave town to find a bivouac spot somewhat frightened me.
I arrived in the town center. Activity was low. The first hotel was closed, but I spotted a lit sign for another establishment further on. I headed there, got off my bike, and entered. The welcome was immediately friendly—a big cat came to rub against me. For me, that was a very good sign, and the first impression was confirmed. I still had to go out to eat. I covered the minimum distance. A restaurant advertised "Mom’s Cooking." I expected Provençal specialties, but they were Moroccan. I chose a delicious tagine with lime and olives, followed by almond and honey ice cream. Exhausted after this 116-kilometer stage, I returned to my room. As often after intense efforts, it was hard to fall asleep.
Day Three: Forcalquier to Moustiers-Sainte-Marie – 58 km
On this third day, due to the progress made yesterday, the stage would be short. I’d call it a transition between two mountain ranges. Indeed, the next big climb is the Verdon Gorge. I planned to position myself at its foot this evening in preparation for a tough stage tomorrow. I made a few purchases—bread, bananas, and medicine for stomach burns (the midday sausage wasn’t always kind to me). The weather was still perfect. The route began with a long descent toward the Durance. It’s always nice to start a cycling day with a downhill—it boosts morale and allows for a gentle warm-up.
I quickly reached the town of Oraison. Just at its entrance, I crossed the Durance, which still bore traces of last week’s heavy rains along its sandbanks. Indeed, numerous stumps and trunks were scattered along its vast gravel bed, along with less ecological debris like old tires.
A little south of Oraison, I took the D907, a small road heading due east between scrubland and meadows. There it was—the Provence we imagine. This stable autumn weather, with still air, neither hot nor cold, just a fresh feeling when emerging from a shaded valley or a slight warmth under the sun, was ideal for a cyclist. After about ten kilometers at the bottom of a small valley I quickly passed through, the village of Le Brunet appeared on the right. It clung to the slopes leading to the Valensole Plateau. A few steep kilometers along a tiny winding road, and suddenly a vast panorama unfolded as the climb ended.
What a magnificent plateau! Though known for its wind, luckily today was completely calm. Far to the east, the Verdon’s great cliffs blocked the horizon. This allowed me to contemplate part of tomorrow’s stage. This place is full of mysteries—many UFO and extraterrestrial encounter stories are associated with it. Moreover, for about thirty years, France hid its ground-to-ground nuclear ballistic missiles here, grouped in the 1st GMS (Ballistic Missile Group), under the air force. Naturally, these rockets fueled fantasies, and pacifist groups settled in the region to protest this type of armament. This gives many reasons to shroud this austere, deserted land in mystery.
I took a dirt path leading to the heart of this zone and stopped at the forest’s edge for lunch. The silence was total, the view stretched very far. But nothing strange or bizarre manifested. No Martian came to share my frankly moldy cheese, very peppery sausage, or bruised banana—sniff! I resumed my route, and as often when crossing places with strong character, I tended to slow down to enjoy them longer. The immense lavender fields stretched endlessly, not very fragrant at this season. I arrived at a group of truffle oaks protected by a fence, with large red signs warning "Firearm." Clearly, the war for the black diamond was raging in this region. I remembered a novel where an old farmer made buyers believe nothing grew on his land. Every year, he secretly stole the mushrooms from the unsuspecting owners. Then one day, they discovered the truth, catching this "polite" neighbor trying to hide a basket full of beautiful, large truffles!
In these vast spaces, I felt good—a sense of plenitude. It’s strange that I only conceive of cycling through wandering. I struggle to plan a day trip. And if I do, it’s highly likely I won’t get up. I need that sense of adventure to fully appreciate my physical effort. Maybe one day I should get psychoanalyzed, but at my age, it’s probably too late! Today, I had all the time in the world—the stage was half as long as yesterday’s, with very little elevation gain. Not a sound, an impressive calm, a beautiful landscape—I pedaled in a wonderful place. That’s probably happiness!
I reached the village of Puimoisson on the plateau’s eastern edge—only 12 kilometers left to Moustiers. I took my time, sat at a café terrace in the sun, and leisurely enjoyed a coffee while listening to the village come to life. I was delighted by these melodious southern voices, bursting into great laughter. There are places where, despite the anxieties caused by our debt-ridden, dysfunctional societies, some have decided to take life on the bright side and show a saving insouciance.
The rest of the journey was a simple formality—I let the slope carry me toward the pretty little town of Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, clinging to the cliff and famous for its faïence. Arriving early for once, I went to the tourist office to choose a comfortable hotel. Indeed, the Hôtel des Restanques was very comfortable and admirably well-located. But at this time of year, I’d have to return to the village center for dinner. The very kind receptionist reserved a table for me at La Treille Muscate, a restaurant with a magnificently arranged room on the church square. It was only 3:30 PM—I continued to take my time, showering and relaxing in front of the TV. Then I set off to explore—or rather, re-explore—this village I’d visited several times before. But I’d never climbed to its chapel perched in the middle of the great cliff towering over the houses. A stony, aerial path led there. The first mentions of the Notre-Dame de Beauvoir chapel, known in ancient times as Notre-Dame d’Entre-Roches, date back to the 9th century. It’s one of the rare "respite" chapels found in Provence. These are chapels where stillborn children were brought to be revived for a few moments, just long enough to baptize them. They could then be buried religiously, ensuring the salvation of their souls. I was also very moved by reading some ex-votos, like the one from "A mother for her three children returned from the war."
The place was impressive, especially as night fell. I was alone and watched the shadows fill the great cliffs above me. With an old climber’s reflex, I looked for possible climbing routes among these slabs and cracks. But climbing is probably forbidden here, too close to the houses. Then I descended to stroll through the village, admiring the magnificent, finely crafted faïence patterns found in many shops. Finally, dinnertime arrived, and I joined my restaurant, which had been highly recommended. I was delighted by the foie gras ravioli and the pieds et paquets—the chef’s specialty. I’ll come back with family.
Day Four: Moustiers to Fréjus via the Verdon – 122 km
A hearty breakfast prepared me for the day’s tough efforts. Next to me, four Chinese people chatted animatedly. Of course, I didn’t understand a word—it was a language with strange intonations and sounds. I left the dining room and prepared my bike on the terrace. Seeing the volume of my luggage, my Chinese friends rushed over and asked to take turns having their photo taken in front of this funny setup. All laughing, they took photos in front of what they probably considered a French coolie off on some trading business! When they show these photos to their relatives, they’ll likely be perplexed about what motivates some to travel by bike rather than car. For them, the car is a symbol of success—according to an article I read last year, 14,000 cars are registered in China every day!
This morning, the air was fresh. As yesterday, I started with a long descent, this time leading to the edge of Lac de Sainte-Croix. A strong, biting headwind slowed me down. It wouldn’t last, as it was generated by the gorge’s outlet, which I’d reach in a few kilometers. On this cold morning, the lake’s shores exuded great tranquility. The sun was still hidden behind the Verdon’s mountainous mass. Trees with yellow leaves stood out against the water’s pale blue. The bridge marking the gorge’s beginning at the lake’s edge was an ideal spot to admire this natural splendor. At this early hour, the play of light and shadow on the water and the immense cliffs delivered a grandiose spectacle in beautiful harmony. This first contact with the gorges, which I knew well, amazed me.
Once past the bridge, the wind calmed. A little further on, I began the long climb that would take me to the top of this immense natural gash, which water had taken millions of years to carve. I was in good shape and highly motivated by the splendors to come. First, I reached the village of Aiguines, which offered a magnificent viewpoint over the lake. Then I continued toward the Corniche Sublime, where countless breathtaking panoramas unfolded as I progressed. But the climb was sustained and long, requiring effort—though my small chainring worked miracles. I first passed the Col d’Illoire, already 500 meters above the lake. Seeing all these great cliffs, countless climbing memories came flooding back. The classic routes of the Escalès cliff, over 300 meters high, flashed by. Routes with legendary names—La Demande, Les Écureuils, Luna-Bong, and many others. The one that left me with the best memory was ULA—a crack, vertical or even overhanging, of sheer beauty rising above a 40-meter slab in one go for 280 meters of sustained, beautiful climbing on extraordinary rock. It made me want to return to climb there, to immerse myself in the atmosphere of those past times. But climbing habits have changed—now routes are accessed from above by rappel, and people don’t always bother to do these great climbs in their entirety, focusing instead on shorter but technically much more difficult enterprises.
At almost every bend, I stopped and scanned these great cliffs, searching for memories of past experiences and emotions in these secret rock folds. The road climbed well above the pass, exceeding 1,200 meters. It was cool, especially since I was sweating. Finally reaching the high point of the Corniche Sublime, I couldn’t gain speed on the descent—my gaze was always drawn to this astonishing canyon. Around a bend, two cyclists with funny small-wheeled bikes. Wow! It was a couple of Australians doing a year-long tour of France. We chatted passionately about our two-wheeled experiences for a moment. But time was passing, and if I wanted to reach Fréjus before nightfall, I’d have to pedal seriously.
I stopped at the Pont de l’Artuby, where bungee jumping was in full swing. But I quickly set off again toward Comps. The wind was against me, and it was climbing. I started to doubt whether I’d make it to the coast that evening. At 2 PM, I was in Comps-sur-Artuby. I didn’t stop, knowing that before reaching the coast, I’d have no alternative to bivouacking, and I had 70 kilometers left to cover. Sure, it should be downhill, but a few climbs were on the program. After a descent out of the village, I crossed the Artuby River again on the Canjuers military camp. A several-kilometer climb followed, fortunately not too steep. I took the D19 toward Barjols. From there, despite the late hour, I opted for a tiny road passing through Claviers, a small perched village. Time passed quickly, but the kilometers added up. I regained hope. Fifteen kilometers after this last village, I reached Saint-Paul-en-Forêt via a magnificent forested route. I had plenty of time to observe mushroom hunters. I asked one who clearly had some in a plastic bag. He gave me this hilarious answer with a magnificent southern accent: "I only picked the bad ones." No reply was possible. I moved on with a smile. A little further on, another hunter carried a basket. As soon as he saw me, he quickly hid it—just in case I saw what it contained. Arriving at the village involved a steep climb, and I was close to 100 kilometers. I still had a little over 20 kilometers to go before reaching Fréjus. The race against nightfall had begun. Over there to my right, I saw the sun setting behind Roquebrune-sur-Argens’ distinctive rock. The sea appeared. There it was—I was in Fréjus’ industrial zone. On this Sunday evening, traffic was heavy. Indeed, many had taken advantage of the return of good weather after very heavy storms to go for a walk. After quite a few detours, I arrived at the seaside just as night fell. My odometer showed 122 km for the day. I quickly found a simple hotel, ate just as quickly, and went to bed.
Day Five: Fréjus to Solliès-Pont – 92 km
Once again, the night had done its restorative work, and I prepared to cross the Massif des Maures feeling quite fresh. The weather forecast was still favorable for today, but a deterioration was expected tomorrow. I tended to trust it because the east wind was blowing, and in the region, that’s a sign of rain. For now, in the short term, this wind would be very useful—it would push me generously throughout the day.
I started calmly along the harbor quays, looking at the boats. Then I joined the road to Saint-Aygulf and followed the coast for forty kilometers to Port-Grimaud. All these seaside resorts—Saint-Aygulf, Les Issambres, Sainte-Maxime—reminded me of my youth when we spent all our vacations fishing, whether from shore, underwater, or by boat. Looking at the sea roll by, I knew what the seabeds looked like under that surface hiding them. The marine areas we knew best were now under the parking lots and commercial zones of Saint-Raphaël’s new port. In our youth, these infrastructures didn’t exist, and their construction came at the expense of coastal marine areas. Our wonderful fishing spots were permanently buried. I remember seeing the first big trucks that came to dump their loads of earth and rubble, destroying all those wonderful places—sandbanks, seaweed beds, groups of rocky holes teeming with fish that enchanted our youth. Over forty years later, I can still visualize them in my imagination under those parking lots and stores, with the names we gave them—my brothers and I: le casse-croûte, le casse-pipe, les montagnes, la digue, la grille, la mare à mulets, la petite-plage, le trou, etc.
Let’s not be overwhelmed by nostalgia. I left the coast and took the little road through the Maures to Collobrières. The route led from ridge to ridge following the terrain’s movements. At this time of year, the region was admirable. Due to the heavy storms of recent weeks, water was streaming everywhere. Waterfalls and streams murmured all along the way. I didn’t recognize the Maures, which I knew for their dryness causing apocalyptic fires. Indeed, around a bend, I came across a small rest area where a memorial had been erected for three firefighters who lost their lives here while fighting one of those gigantic fires fanned by the mistral.
This forest holds treasures—first, the cork oak, then the arbutus, chestnut trees, and of course, mushrooms that love this granitic soil:
The cork oak can be found all along the road. It’s the forest’s essential element. You can recognize it by its light bark (before exploitation), which forms large bulges along the trunk. But after exploitation, the trunks are much smoother, less voluminous, and dark in color. The arbutus is a large berry with red skin covered in small protuberances, growing on the arbutus tree. This fruit, common in Mediterranean areas, ripens in November. That means today, there were plenty around me. Its flesh is orange, with the consistency of firm purée, and it crushes softly in the mouth. The taste of this berry is sweet and excellent. I didn’t hold back—I gorged myself on them, which served as my midday meal. Sometimes I had to climb embankments to get them.
The chestnut tree, a true industry of the region, brings wealth to the surrounding villages. They make candied chestnuts, ice cream, and other products derived from chestnut flour. Be careful not to stop just anywhere to pick this fruit, as the tree owners might not agree. They even make this clear with signs and surround their chestnut trees with fences. Mushrooms—saffron milk caps and porcini—are highly prized in the area. I saw a few hunters, but it clearly wasn’t miraculous. Supposedly, there had been too much rain?
There’s no time to get bored along this little road, from which you can sometimes see the sea. I passed the Col de Taillude at over 400 meters. I began the descent to Collobrières, the chestnut capital, whose festival attracts many people. Before entering, about a hundred meters from the first houses, a cyclist—probably an agricultural worker—came toward me. As he passed, he cheerfully called out, "Go on, little guy! It’s almost there!" We both smiled. At the end of November, the village was cold and almost deserted. Dead leaves swept the wet streets of the town. You could feel winter on the way. I continued my route to Pierrefeu-du-Var, on the western edge of the Massif des Maures. So I gave my last pedal strokes in this pretty little massif so characteristic of Provence.
I looked for a hotel in Cuers but without success. I descended toward Toulon and finally found one on the outskirts of Solliès-Pont. It catered to people coming to work in the region, so nothing very bucolic. But if the weather were to deteriorate tomorrow and turn to rain, I could quickly reach Hyères or Toulon station, which was a significant advantage. Indeed, November rains aren’t usually very pleasant on a bike.
Day Six: Solliès-Pont to Cassis via Sainte-Baume – 85 km
This morning, contrary to the weather forecast, the weather was beautiful, and the latest bulletin seemed to contradict yesterday’s. So no escape to Toulon—I resumed my route toward Sainte-Baume. I left the hotel via a tiny road that, through ups and downs, led me via shortcuts to the road to Belgentier. My body had gotten used to intense daily efforts, and I felt in Olympic form. At a good pace, I launched into a long climb with a moderate slope. The road was busy, but fortunately, the side lane for cyclists often made the exercise more pleasant. The villages rolled by—Méounes, La Roquebrussanne. Near the latter, I observed a Tiger combat helicopter in training. It hovered motionless for long periods—perhaps the pilots were training to master their increasingly sophisticated weapon systems, requiring even more learning?
I left the busy road and headed via an almost deserted route toward the village of Mazaugues. The climbs became steeper. A long descent, and there I was in this pretty village. A grocery store, which besides selling a few ingredients also served as a café. I sat near the electric heater—it was cold, and I was sweaty. I watched customers come and go and listened to the shopkeeper tell me about village life. The name Mazaugues comes from "water mass," which is why drought doesn’t usually affect this area. Apparently, you can even find mushrooms here in summer! I had a good time, and as I was leaving, a local cyclist started a conversation and told me about her dreams of long bike trips, currently limited by her situation as a mother of terrible children. She settled for day trips with her club, which was already good in this very hilly region. I told her the story of a man who, at 73, cycled solo around Morocco. So no panic—she still had thirty or forty years to realize her wildest dreams!
I was warned that it would be a tough climb to reach Sainte-Baume’s northern slope. Indeed, over eight kilometers, the average slope was sustained, but the landscape was wonderful. Here too, water was streaming everywhere. I passed one of those famous icehouses that used to supply Marseille with ice throughout the year. This northern slope of Sainte-Baume is very cold, and this characteristic was exploited in previous centuries to produce ice. Large cylindrical structures, well-protected to the north and semi-buried, received large quantities of water in late autumn, which froze during winter and was kept cool for months until the following winter. Ice blocks were cut and delivered by cart to the city. That’s how, in ancient times, ice was available in summer to keep fish fresh in Marseille. Did pastis exist at that time? If not, the ice cubes must have been bored!
Once the climb was over, the long ridge of Sainte-Baume appeared, and I could see its characteristic antennas. Nestled at the foot of the cliffs, the magnificent millennial forest revealed itself with its autumn colors. I stopped at the monastery. I’d been there several times before and had even slept there during a long walking trip. The welcome had been first-rate by the Dominicans, especially the sisters in their long immaculate robes. They radiated a serenity that was very contagious. Don’t hesitate to stop there for the night. I struggled to get back on my way—some places have a special spirit.
I was soon at the end of my journey. I continued along this magnificent mountain to the Col de l’Espigoulier. To the north, another immense wave of white limestone rose—Montagne Sainte-Victoire, a high place in Provence that painter Cézanne made world-famous. Once at the pass, the entire city of Marseille spread out at my feet, the Mediterranean coast revealed itself from the Calanques to La Ciotat, passing by the famous Cap Canaille, Europe’s highest sea cliff. Above me, bathed in sunlight, Bartagne’s northwest face, very popular among climbers, showed all its reliefs. With an old climber’s reflex, I spotted the many climbs I’d done there. I let myself be carried into a steep, winding descent toward the village of Gémenos in a beautiful setting full of cliffs.
A few more kilometers of climbing toward the Col de l’Ange, then toward Roquefort-la-Bédoule. In this last climb, I raced with two cyclists, admittedly not very young. Then, in a six-kilometer descent, I reached Cassis station, the endpoint of my six-day journey through this wild Provençal land between sea and mountain. I experienced great pleasure during these 570 kilometers through these renowned yet wild French massifs. As always, when a beautiful project comes to an end, you feel a bit orphaned by a beautiful dream come true. You have to quickly envision the next one to avoid a vague sense of emptiness taking over. My next adventure is already taking shape in my mind, but that’s another story.
In the autumn of 2011, Provence was hit by apocalyptic weather—torrential rain and a particularly violent east wind, reaching 130 kilometers per hour, whipping up waves as high as seven meters. It wasn’t the best time to venture outside. Yet, I told myself that after the storm, calm would return. I kept an eye on the weather forecast and noticed that starting November 10th, a favorable window should open for a little 600-kilometer cycling trip across Provence. The weather reports promised a high-pressure system that would keep the bad weather at bay over these highlands. That was all I needed to decide to set off. The planned route would take me through Provence’s biggest climbs: Mont Ventoux, Montagne de Lure, the Verdon Gorge, the Massif des Maures, and Sainte-Baume.
And so, despite my doubts, the call of adventure was stronger. The train pulled away, and once again, a journey began at Part-Dieu station. This time, I headed toward Haute-Provence for a cycling adventure. It would be my first solo bike trip. I was a little nervous—cycling with panniers makes you feel vulnerable to theft. I’d already been robbed while traveling in a group in Peru, and that experience left me deeply shaken. Alone, I hesitated. But no need to panic—I’d read accounts from long-distance cyclists who hadn’t been robbed, even if it does happen sometimes. I was particularly thinking of a young schoolteacher who had taken a sabbatical to cycle around the world. Her students had remarked, "Teacher, you’re not sporty—how will you manage to cycle around the world?" This young woman was full of resourcefulness. In South America, before flying to China, she locked her bike to a post to take care of a natural need. When she returned, the post had been torn out, and her bike—along with all her gear—was gone. It was a shock for many, but not for her. She boarded her flight to the Middle Kingdom, bought the essentials (including a new bike) once there, and continued her journey! Remembering this story, I almost felt ashamed of my cowardice. These were the thoughts running through my mind as the Rhône Valley rolled by toward Orange, the starting point of my Provençal adventure through the big climbs.
Day One: Orange to Sault via Mont Ventoux – 90 km
9:30 AM, I stepped off the train. With all my gear, I had to navigate the underground passage—no easy feat, given that my bike and luggage weighed 35 kilos. At this time of year, I expected some areas to be deserted, so I’d packed enough to bivouac comfortably. Once outside the station, the southern light flooded over me. I understood why people dream of retiring in these sun-drenched regions. As always, after disembarking from public transport, I had to get my bearings and decide which way to go. The sun, still low on the horizon, pointed east. The roar of fighter jet engines helped me locate the Air Base 115. That was all I needed to "reset the gyros."
As soon as I started pedaling, all my apprehensions vanished. The joy of discovery and physical effort took over, and euphoria washed over me. It’s amazing how emotions can shift from one moment to the next based on seemingly minor circumstances.
The weather was splendid—the forecast had predicted continuous showers, but it was completely wrong. I quickly left the city behind. Mont Ventoux loomed mysteriously, its dimensions hard to gauge. It was even more enigmatic with its summit hidden beneath swirling, mottled clouds clinging to the ridges. It reminded me of a great South American volcano. I struggled to imagine that in a few hours, I’d be up there under that blanket of mist.
The countryside was shaking off its autumnal nighttime dampness. The vineyards, interspersed with tall cypress hedges, confirmed I was in the magnificent Côtes du Rhône wine region. The distinctive Dentelles de Montmirail were very much in evidence. The air force base wasn’t far. I passed the runway’s end markers. A Mirage 2000 flew overhead in a tight turn, followed by another roaring into takeoff. It came straight at me before climbing sharply with a thunderous roar. Thirty years spent in that captivating world came rushing back. I recalled countless extraordinary human and technical experiences from my time in the service. But the purpose of this post isn’t to promote the air force—though I might post some articles one day about travels among men at war.
I continued on my way, leaving my past loves behind. As I pedaled, delightful names rolled by: Violès, Vacqueyras, Gigondas, Beaumes-de-Venise—the crème de la crème of the Côtes du Rhône Villages appellation. I let myself be enchanted by the vineyards and the little paths crisscrossing them. I started to doubt my route, though the imposing mass of Mont Ventoux in the distance acted like a giant beacon. At a crossroads, a car appeared. I approached to ask the driver for directions, but she didn’t even look at me and sped off, clearly frightened. I’d almost forgotten what a fearful world we live in, no doubt traumatized by all the horrors we see in the news and on TV.
The kilometers started adding up, but was my day’s goal too ambitious? It had been two months since I’d last ridden my bike. True, my last trip had been good training—the Route des Grandes Alpes—but that was two months ago. I can’t just take my bike out for a day trip; I need that sense of adventure to find the courage to exercise.
Two cyclists overtook me. Intrigued by my load, they struck up a conversation. They were skeptical when I told them I planned to cross Mont Ventoux that day. One of them pointed out a small chapel near the summit where I could bivouac sheltered. That motivated me even more to reach the top on this first stage. The chapel also had a mythical name for me—Sainte-Anne, the name of my parents’ villa. It was already noon, and I’d covered 50 kilometers. Malaucène appeared—the sacred village of Ventoux’s mad cyclists. Surprisingly, I didn’t see any other cyclists today. I remembered this place in June, teeming with aspirants for the king of summits. Before tackling the climb ahead, I needed to refuel. I enjoyed a pleasant gastronomic break at Max’s. At 1 PM, I started the most famous climb in cycling—21 kilometers, which would actually be 23. I knew it would be tough, especially with two handicaps: 50 kilometers already in my legs and 20 kilos of luggage. But I was counting on my tiny chainring, which let me climb trees to tackle the steep ramps.
I set off at a brisk pace along a deserted road. My speed held up for the first few kilometers. I quickly rose above the valley, the horizon widening. I was surprised to see no one on this world-renowned route among cycling enthusiasts. During the climb and descent, I’d only see five cyclists—but I’ll come back to that. I passed a sign explaining that the effort would be roughly equivalent to climbing the Col de la Bonnette. Having done the latter in September, I figured I’d be fine. I crossed paths with my first cyclist—a woman speeding downhill. After 12 kilometers, I hit slopes averaging 12%. I don’t know if the number 12 is cursed, but I got such a "bamboo" hit that I’d never experienced before. I thought I wouldn’t make it to the summit today. I stopped. My thighs burned so much I could barely walk—lactic acid overload. I looked for a relatively flat spot to pitch my tent. It was 3:30 PM, with two hours of daylight left. But I found nothing.
I got back on my bike, intending to stop as soon as I found a good bivouac spot. But nothing came up. However, my strength slowly returned, perhaps because the slope eased, though it remained around 10%. I entered the summit mists. A cyclist overtook me. I was in the zone where I had to pass the summit. Dusk caught me in the final difficulties. The atmosphere was downright austere. In the twilight, a kilometer from the summit, a cyclist was fixing his bike. I asked if he needed help. He made it clear he didn’t understand. So I asked, "Do you need some help?" His answer was clear: "No, thank you." He showed me his new inner tube. Inside, I thought, "Phew!" If I’d had to stop, sweating in the falling night with the cold intensifying, I’d have struggled to get going again. But he managed, and I continued into the twilight fog. I could barely make out the summit’s large antennas in the clouds, like immense ghosts trying to evade sight. The bike delivered sensations worthy of mountain racing. My goal was to quickly find the famous chapel in the descent to take shelter. As I glided down the southern slope, two cyclists without lights crossed my path in the night—probably heading to the station above, its lights visible in the fog.
I scanned the roadside in the dark for the chapel but saw nothing. After a kilometer or two, I lost all hope. I stopped to put on more clothes as the cold became intense. I had no idea where I could stop on these steep slopes to set up camp. Between the swirls of mist, I could intermittently see the Rhône Valley below, dotted with illuminated towns and villages. The sight was striking. What was I doing on this mountain at night? Then the miracle happened—the clouds parted, and from the ridge above me to the east, a beautiful full moon emerged, casting enough light to consider a nighttime descent to Sault, 26 kilometers away.
In this eerie atmosphere between the moon’s pale rays and patches of fog, I began my descent through a hazy, almost unreal world. The Ventoux’s characteristic white scree reflected the moonlight faintly, dimmed by the mist. In places, entire mountainsides were plunged into complete darkness, and I lost all sense of the road’s path. Then, around a tight bend caused by a land shift, the light returned. It seemed extreme compared to the darkness I’d left behind. I could once again clearly see the road’s contours, though not its potholes or gravel patches. Still, I let the slope carry me, and the speed felt significant, though the low light prevented me from reading my speedometer. In these moments, concentration was at its peak—all senses alert, reflexes ready to react to the slightest incident that could lead to a fall.
I was relieved to see Sault’s lights growing closer. In less than an hour, I reached it, considering the final little climb that required one last push. This village, bustling in summer, was deserted at this time of year—almost dead. The first hotel I came across was closed. A quick shadow passed in a small sloping street. Before it disappeared into the darkness at a house corner, I chased after it and asked about accommodation options. Very kindly, I was directed to what was probably the only hotel open in November. I quickly found it, and the reception was open. I entered wearing my black balaclava, bought in the Ayacucho region—the birthplace of Peru’s Shining Path. At this late hour, I saw questioning glances directed at me. I prefaced, "This isn’t a hold-up." Clearly, the owners had a sense of humor—they started smiling. I took off my balaclava and asked for a room. No problem, and from that moment, the pressure eased. I really didn’t feel like going back out to find a spot to pitch my tent in the biting cold.
The stage had been nearly 100 kilometers, and it was the first. It had been two months since I’d touched my bike, and I probably lacked even minimal training, even though my last bike trip had been crossing the French Alps. I really had to dig deep to overcome my weakness on Ventoux’s steep section. I don’t remember ever having to search so deeply for the energy to keep going. I knew the stage I’d set for tomorrow was significant, with the climb up Montagne de Lure’s northern slope—Ventoux’s little sister, whose ascent is reputed to be endless, over 25 kilometers. I hoped this first day wouldn’t leave me too sore to avoid suffering excessively tomorrow.
For now, relaxation—a hot shower did me a world of good, followed by a good meal. I ate a delicious andouillette from Troyes, very fine, with a particularly successful herb seasoning. I loved it, and yet I’m from Lyon and pride myself on knowing a thing or two about andouillette—not just a sausage but a whole category! A bit chauvinistic, I had to admit, though reluctantly, that I found it better than the ones I usually eat in the Lyon region!
Day Two: Sault to Forcalquier via Montagne de Lure – 116 km
This morning, the weather was magnificent—the air clear, still, very fresh, and invigorating, as only the late season can offer on these Provençal highlands. In summer, they’re known for their scorching heat and drought, but often overlooked is how harsh they can be with cold and storms. Authors like Giono or Bosco described them and their inhabitants wonderfully in books like "Les Âmes Fortes."
The miracle of the night had worked. I wasn’t sore anywhere and felt in great shape. I set off well-equipped, but the effort and sun soon made me sweat. It was time to shed some layers—hat and gloves. A gentle warmth replaced the cold, making for excellent cycling conditions. On the road to Trinit, there was no traffic—only the occasional hunters’ cars parked in the distance. These vehicles were recognizable by their large cages, used to transport hunting dogs. Sometimes, the silence was broken by a distant gunshot. The deciduous forests were losing their foliage, taking on that dull brown hue of late autumn, though here and there, a tree or shrub still resisted, displaying vivid yellow or red. The meadows, their grass already scorched by the cold, were damp from the night’s heavy humidity. The low sun highlighted thousands of spider webs that had trapped insects during the warm season.
Behind me, Mont Ventoux dominated these vast spaces. As often, its imposing, stony summit was crowned with a blanket of clouds. What an impressive mountain—it’s always so hard to gauge its dimensions. I struggled to realize that last night I’d been at the summit and descended its immense southern ridge in the dark. I hoped to return one day in favorable conditions—daylight and no clouds—to enjoy the vast panorama from this unique summit.
Leaving the very Provençal village of Trinit, I tackled my first climb of the day—the Col de l’Homme Mort. The road rose moderately for five kilometers in gentle warmth. The view over the region widened, and I felt the sheer joy of pedaling. At a good pace, I overcame this first little challenge. Once at the pass, I couldn’t resist the ritual of photographing my bike in front of the sign, giving the name and altitude—1,213 meters.
The northern slope was austere and still in shadow. The cold bit again. The road was wet and covered with leaves in places. It wasn’t impossible that some treacherous patches of black ice lurked around a bend. I descended toward the Jabron Valley with caution. Suddenly, around a bend in a forest clearing, the freshly snow-covered Alps, gleaming in the sun, leapt into view, blocking the horizon. I thought I recognized the distinctive silhouette of the Écrins’ south face above a multitude of jagged peaks.
This snow and these mountains awakened a flood of memories of great joys, but I also thought of the guide and his client who had just lost their lives on the Grandes Jorasses’ north face, at the top of a route called the Linceul. The name comes from the face’s appearance—a great ice slope bordering the Grandes Jorasses’ north wall. It was first climbed by René Desmaison in 1968. He passed away a few years ago and, in his final wishes, asked that his ashes be scattered in the Dévoluy Massif at the foot of Pic de Bure, not far from here in these immense pre-Alpine folds.
At my feet, the Jabron Valley stretched almost endlessly east toward Sisteron. In the distance, the dark mass of Montagne de Lure’s north face loomed. This mountain shares similarities with Mont Ventoux. It has the same summit scree of bright limestone, the same forests climbing up to the final rocky stretch, and that blanket of clouds adding a secretive, austere touch to the scene.
I turned left past the town of Séderon and headed toward the little Col de la Pigière, which in a few kilometers allowed me to truly plunge into the beautiful Jabron Valley. I passed through several villages with charming local names—Saint-Vincent, Noyer-sur-Jabron. The river offered lovely views of its narrow gorges with clear, cold water. Autumn seemed less advanced here than on the plateau I’d just left. Many trees still wore brilliant colors, some revealing extraordinary hues—mixes of crimson, pink, and bright red.
Arriving in Noyer-sur-Jabron, I took a tiny road on the river’s right bank, leading in a few kilometers to the foot of Montagne de Lure. In the village of Valbelle, I picnicked on leftovers I’d brought from home—an old cheese and a somewhat stale loaf of bread. It was 1:30 PM. I began the long climb of about 25 kilometers. According to a friend who’s a cycling expert in the region, this section is tough. No wonder it’s called Ventoux’s little sister—the Mont Blanc of cyclists. The elevation gain on this side is still 1,200 meters, while Ventoux via Malaucène is nearly 1,600 meters.
I hoped to reach the summit before nightfall and avoid reliving a nighttime descent. The route wound through a vast forest, following the terrain’s folds. There was activity—mushroom hunters were busy searching for the coveted chanterelle. The climb, though never very steep (only one kilometer at 9%), was interminable. Though traffic was practically nonexistent, I was overtaken by a group of Harley bikers—I counted about forty. Perched high on their machines, hands in the air on wildly shaped handlebars, some with their feet nearly in the sky due to the high footpegs, they didn’t even glance my way. What’s this idiot doing, unable to ride a motorcycle and forced to climb these mountains on a bike with big bags! I wasn’t offended—real Harley purists often see other motorcyclists as renegades, so bikes are even lower on the totem pole! But I didn’t want to start a debate about motorcycles. In my youth, when I was a wild motorcyclist (22 accidents on two wheels), clans were divided into Japanese, German, Italian, and British bike owners. The latter, on their vibrating, oil-leaking machines, considered themselves the purest. But let’s not fight—there’s a statute of limitations, and it’s been nearly forty years.
As yesterday, a few kilometers below the summit, I entered the fog, and the light dropped suddenly. What a hostile mountain in these conditions! It heightened the sense of living an incredible experience. The conditions we encounter play a major role in how the adventure imprints on our memory. I realized once again that in France, you can feel like you’re very far away. Finally, after this very long climb, the Pas de Graille sign suddenly appeared out of the grayness. Strange! Below the sign, a kilometer marker indicated this same pass was over three kilometers away. Clearly, the climb continued. In these final kilometers through the scree, I gained another 130 meters of elevation. Finally, the road’s high point was reached—1,720 meters. It was cold and damp. I quickly covered up, added my balaclava under my helmet, and put on warm gloves. As I was about to start the descent, a car stopped at the summit, and one of the passengers was surprised to find a bike there in these chilly, twilight conditions.
A 20-kilometer descent led me to the village of Saint-Étienne-les-Orgues. I hoped to find a place to stay for the night. No such luck! Everything was clearly closed—no chance of finding shelter. Tonight was getting complicated. I already had exactly 100 kilometers in my legs and didn’t feel like pedaling anymore, especially at night. But I had even less desire to sleep outside. What to do to avoid it? The town of Forcalquier was 16 kilometers away—I hoped the road would descend. I set off in that direction. The first third was along a beautiful, lightly trafficked departmental road with a slight downhill—I pedaled hard. But it got tougher. I joined a busier road, and night had fallen. A several-kilometer climb finished the journey. I knew my magnetic lights weren’t very powerful—hence the danger. They were even less so on the climb because the slower I went, the less they illuminated. Cars coming the opposite way often saw me late and blinded me with their high beams. After passing, I was plunged into total darkness for a few seconds while my pupils readjusted to the night. I imagined those coming up behind me saw me with little warning, despite my slightly fluorescent jacket. When the roadside was clear, I always positioned myself to quickly jump off the road. But unfortunately, in this long final climb, a guardrail prevented any escape to the right in case of sudden braking behind me. That was even more anxiety-inducing since I was stuck at a snail’s pace. Time seemed long. I pedaled as hard as I could, on the verge of asphyxiation, trying to escape this dangerous situation as quickly as possible. My only reference point was the vehicles in front of me, letting me know the climb wasn’t over. Then suddenly, the ordeal ended—the road’s high point was reached. The town and its lights emerged from the void, and clarity returned. Phew! I glided down toward this little town bathed in light. On November 11th, I hoped to find an open hotel since I’d clearly exceeded 100 kilometers, and the idea of having to leave town to find a bivouac spot somewhat frightened me.
I arrived in the town center. Activity was low. The first hotel was closed, but I spotted a lit sign for another establishment further on. I headed there, got off my bike, and entered. The welcome was immediately friendly—a big cat came to rub against me. For me, that was a very good sign, and the first impression was confirmed. I still had to go out to eat. I covered the minimum distance. A restaurant advertised "Mom’s Cooking." I expected Provençal specialties, but they were Moroccan. I chose a delicious tagine with lime and olives, followed by almond and honey ice cream. Exhausted after this 116-kilometer stage, I returned to my room. As often after intense efforts, it was hard to fall asleep.
Day Three: Forcalquier to Moustiers-Sainte-Marie – 58 km
On this third day, due to the progress made yesterday, the stage would be short. I’d call it a transition between two mountain ranges. Indeed, the next big climb is the Verdon Gorge. I planned to position myself at its foot this evening in preparation for a tough stage tomorrow. I made a few purchases—bread, bananas, and medicine for stomach burns (the midday sausage wasn’t always kind to me). The weather was still perfect. The route began with a long descent toward the Durance. It’s always nice to start a cycling day with a downhill—it boosts morale and allows for a gentle warm-up.
I quickly reached the town of Oraison. Just at its entrance, I crossed the Durance, which still bore traces of last week’s heavy rains along its sandbanks. Indeed, numerous stumps and trunks were scattered along its vast gravel bed, along with less ecological debris like old tires.
A little south of Oraison, I took the D907, a small road heading due east between scrubland and meadows. There it was—the Provence we imagine. This stable autumn weather, with still air, neither hot nor cold, just a fresh feeling when emerging from a shaded valley or a slight warmth under the sun, was ideal for a cyclist. After about ten kilometers at the bottom of a small valley I quickly passed through, the village of Le Brunet appeared on the right. It clung to the slopes leading to the Valensole Plateau. A few steep kilometers along a tiny winding road, and suddenly a vast panorama unfolded as the climb ended.
What a magnificent plateau! Though known for its wind, luckily today was completely calm. Far to the east, the Verdon’s great cliffs blocked the horizon. This allowed me to contemplate part of tomorrow’s stage. This place is full of mysteries—many UFO and extraterrestrial encounter stories are associated with it. Moreover, for about thirty years, France hid its ground-to-ground nuclear ballistic missiles here, grouped in the 1st GMS (Ballistic Missile Group), under the air force. Naturally, these rockets fueled fantasies, and pacifist groups settled in the region to protest this type of armament. This gives many reasons to shroud this austere, deserted land in mystery.
I took a dirt path leading to the heart of this zone and stopped at the forest’s edge for lunch. The silence was total, the view stretched very far. But nothing strange or bizarre manifested. No Martian came to share my frankly moldy cheese, very peppery sausage, or bruised banana—sniff! I resumed my route, and as often when crossing places with strong character, I tended to slow down to enjoy them longer. The immense lavender fields stretched endlessly, not very fragrant at this season. I arrived at a group of truffle oaks protected by a fence, with large red signs warning "Firearm." Clearly, the war for the black diamond was raging in this region. I remembered a novel where an old farmer made buyers believe nothing grew on his land. Every year, he secretly stole the mushrooms from the unsuspecting owners. Then one day, they discovered the truth, catching this "polite" neighbor trying to hide a basket full of beautiful, large truffles!
In these vast spaces, I felt good—a sense of plenitude. It’s strange that I only conceive of cycling through wandering. I struggle to plan a day trip. And if I do, it’s highly likely I won’t get up. I need that sense of adventure to fully appreciate my physical effort. Maybe one day I should get psychoanalyzed, but at my age, it’s probably too late! Today, I had all the time in the world—the stage was half as long as yesterday’s, with very little elevation gain. Not a sound, an impressive calm, a beautiful landscape—I pedaled in a wonderful place. That’s probably happiness!
I reached the village of Puimoisson on the plateau’s eastern edge—only 12 kilometers left to Moustiers. I took my time, sat at a café terrace in the sun, and leisurely enjoyed a coffee while listening to the village come to life. I was delighted by these melodious southern voices, bursting into great laughter. There are places where, despite the anxieties caused by our debt-ridden, dysfunctional societies, some have decided to take life on the bright side and show a saving insouciance.
The rest of the journey was a simple formality—I let the slope carry me toward the pretty little town of Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, clinging to the cliff and famous for its faïence. Arriving early for once, I went to the tourist office to choose a comfortable hotel. Indeed, the Hôtel des Restanques was very comfortable and admirably well-located. But at this time of year, I’d have to return to the village center for dinner. The very kind receptionist reserved a table for me at La Treille Muscate, a restaurant with a magnificently arranged room on the church square. It was only 3:30 PM—I continued to take my time, showering and relaxing in front of the TV. Then I set off to explore—or rather, re-explore—this village I’d visited several times before. But I’d never climbed to its chapel perched in the middle of the great cliff towering over the houses. A stony, aerial path led there. The first mentions of the Notre-Dame de Beauvoir chapel, known in ancient times as Notre-Dame d’Entre-Roches, date back to the 9th century. It’s one of the rare "respite" chapels found in Provence. These are chapels where stillborn children were brought to be revived for a few moments, just long enough to baptize them. They could then be buried religiously, ensuring the salvation of their souls. I was also very moved by reading some ex-votos, like the one from "A mother for her three children returned from the war."
The place was impressive, especially as night fell. I was alone and watched the shadows fill the great cliffs above me. With an old climber’s reflex, I looked for possible climbing routes among these slabs and cracks. But climbing is probably forbidden here, too close to the houses. Then I descended to stroll through the village, admiring the magnificent, finely crafted faïence patterns found in many shops. Finally, dinnertime arrived, and I joined my restaurant, which had been highly recommended. I was delighted by the foie gras ravioli and the pieds et paquets—the chef’s specialty. I’ll come back with family.
Day Four: Moustiers to Fréjus via the Verdon – 122 km
A hearty breakfast prepared me for the day’s tough efforts. Next to me, four Chinese people chatted animatedly. Of course, I didn’t understand a word—it was a language with strange intonations and sounds. I left the dining room and prepared my bike on the terrace. Seeing the volume of my luggage, my Chinese friends rushed over and asked to take turns having their photo taken in front of this funny setup. All laughing, they took photos in front of what they probably considered a French coolie off on some trading business! When they show these photos to their relatives, they’ll likely be perplexed about what motivates some to travel by bike rather than car. For them, the car is a symbol of success—according to an article I read last year, 14,000 cars are registered in China every day!
This morning, the air was fresh. As yesterday, I started with a long descent, this time leading to the edge of Lac de Sainte-Croix. A strong, biting headwind slowed me down. It wouldn’t last, as it was generated by the gorge’s outlet, which I’d reach in a few kilometers. On this cold morning, the lake’s shores exuded great tranquility. The sun was still hidden behind the Verdon’s mountainous mass. Trees with yellow leaves stood out against the water’s pale blue. The bridge marking the gorge’s beginning at the lake’s edge was an ideal spot to admire this natural splendor. At this early hour, the play of light and shadow on the water and the immense cliffs delivered a grandiose spectacle in beautiful harmony. This first contact with the gorges, which I knew well, amazed me.
Once past the bridge, the wind calmed. A little further on, I began the long climb that would take me to the top of this immense natural gash, which water had taken millions of years to carve. I was in good shape and highly motivated by the splendors to come. First, I reached the village of Aiguines, which offered a magnificent viewpoint over the lake. Then I continued toward the Corniche Sublime, where countless breathtaking panoramas unfolded as I progressed. But the climb was sustained and long, requiring effort—though my small chainring worked miracles. I first passed the Col d’Illoire, already 500 meters above the lake. Seeing all these great cliffs, countless climbing memories came flooding back. The classic routes of the Escalès cliff, over 300 meters high, flashed by. Routes with legendary names—La Demande, Les Écureuils, Luna-Bong, and many others. The one that left me with the best memory was ULA—a crack, vertical or even overhanging, of sheer beauty rising above a 40-meter slab in one go for 280 meters of sustained, beautiful climbing on extraordinary rock. It made me want to return to climb there, to immerse myself in the atmosphere of those past times. But climbing habits have changed—now routes are accessed from above by rappel, and people don’t always bother to do these great climbs in their entirety, focusing instead on shorter but technically much more difficult enterprises.
At almost every bend, I stopped and scanned these great cliffs, searching for memories of past experiences and emotions in these secret rock folds. The road climbed well above the pass, exceeding 1,200 meters. It was cool, especially since I was sweating. Finally reaching the high point of the Corniche Sublime, I couldn’t gain speed on the descent—my gaze was always drawn to this astonishing canyon. Around a bend, two cyclists with funny small-wheeled bikes. Wow! It was a couple of Australians doing a year-long tour of France. We chatted passionately about our two-wheeled experiences for a moment. But time was passing, and if I wanted to reach Fréjus before nightfall, I’d have to pedal seriously.
I stopped at the Pont de l’Artuby, where bungee jumping was in full swing. But I quickly set off again toward Comps. The wind was against me, and it was climbing. I started to doubt whether I’d make it to the coast that evening. At 2 PM, I was in Comps-sur-Artuby. I didn’t stop, knowing that before reaching the coast, I’d have no alternative to bivouacking, and I had 70 kilometers left to cover. Sure, it should be downhill, but a few climbs were on the program. After a descent out of the village, I crossed the Artuby River again on the Canjuers military camp. A several-kilometer climb followed, fortunately not too steep. I took the D19 toward Barjols. From there, despite the late hour, I opted for a tiny road passing through Claviers, a small perched village. Time passed quickly, but the kilometers added up. I regained hope. Fifteen kilometers after this last village, I reached Saint-Paul-en-Forêt via a magnificent forested route. I had plenty of time to observe mushroom hunters. I asked one who clearly had some in a plastic bag. He gave me this hilarious answer with a magnificent southern accent: "I only picked the bad ones." No reply was possible. I moved on with a smile. A little further on, another hunter carried a basket. As soon as he saw me, he quickly hid it—just in case I saw what it contained. Arriving at the village involved a steep climb, and I was close to 100 kilometers. I still had a little over 20 kilometers to go before reaching Fréjus. The race against nightfall had begun. Over there to my right, I saw the sun setting behind Roquebrune-sur-Argens’ distinctive rock. The sea appeared. There it was—I was in Fréjus’ industrial zone. On this Sunday evening, traffic was heavy. Indeed, many had taken advantage of the return of good weather after very heavy storms to go for a walk. After quite a few detours, I arrived at the seaside just as night fell. My odometer showed 122 km for the day. I quickly found a simple hotel, ate just as quickly, and went to bed.
Day Five: Fréjus to Solliès-Pont – 92 km
Once again, the night had done its restorative work, and I prepared to cross the Massif des Maures feeling quite fresh. The weather forecast was still favorable for today, but a deterioration was expected tomorrow. I tended to trust it because the east wind was blowing, and in the region, that’s a sign of rain. For now, in the short term, this wind would be very useful—it would push me generously throughout the day.
I started calmly along the harbor quays, looking at the boats. Then I joined the road to Saint-Aygulf and followed the coast for forty kilometers to Port-Grimaud. All these seaside resorts—Saint-Aygulf, Les Issambres, Sainte-Maxime—reminded me of my youth when we spent all our vacations fishing, whether from shore, underwater, or by boat. Looking at the sea roll by, I knew what the seabeds looked like under that surface hiding them. The marine areas we knew best were now under the parking lots and commercial zones of Saint-Raphaël’s new port. In our youth, these infrastructures didn’t exist, and their construction came at the expense of coastal marine areas. Our wonderful fishing spots were permanently buried. I remember seeing the first big trucks that came to dump their loads of earth and rubble, destroying all those wonderful places—sandbanks, seaweed beds, groups of rocky holes teeming with fish that enchanted our youth. Over forty years later, I can still visualize them in my imagination under those parking lots and stores, with the names we gave them—my brothers and I: le casse-croûte, le casse-pipe, les montagnes, la digue, la grille, la mare à mulets, la petite-plage, le trou, etc.
Let’s not be overwhelmed by nostalgia. I left the coast and took the little road through the Maures to Collobrières. The route led from ridge to ridge following the terrain’s movements. At this time of year, the region was admirable. Due to the heavy storms of recent weeks, water was streaming everywhere. Waterfalls and streams murmured all along the way. I didn’t recognize the Maures, which I knew for their dryness causing apocalyptic fires. Indeed, around a bend, I came across a small rest area where a memorial had been erected for three firefighters who lost their lives here while fighting one of those gigantic fires fanned by the mistral.
This forest holds treasures—first, the cork oak, then the arbutus, chestnut trees, and of course, mushrooms that love this granitic soil:
The cork oak can be found all along the road. It’s the forest’s essential element. You can recognize it by its light bark (before exploitation), which forms large bulges along the trunk. But after exploitation, the trunks are much smoother, less voluminous, and dark in color. The arbutus is a large berry with red skin covered in small protuberances, growing on the arbutus tree. This fruit, common in Mediterranean areas, ripens in November. That means today, there were plenty around me. Its flesh is orange, with the consistency of firm purée, and it crushes softly in the mouth. The taste of this berry is sweet and excellent. I didn’t hold back—I gorged myself on them, which served as my midday meal. Sometimes I had to climb embankments to get them.
The chestnut tree, a true industry of the region, brings wealth to the surrounding villages. They make candied chestnuts, ice cream, and other products derived from chestnut flour. Be careful not to stop just anywhere to pick this fruit, as the tree owners might not agree. They even make this clear with signs and surround their chestnut trees with fences. Mushrooms—saffron milk caps and porcini—are highly prized in the area. I saw a few hunters, but it clearly wasn’t miraculous. Supposedly, there had been too much rain?
There’s no time to get bored along this little road, from which you can sometimes see the sea. I passed the Col de Taillude at over 400 meters. I began the descent to Collobrières, the chestnut capital, whose festival attracts many people. Before entering, about a hundred meters from the first houses, a cyclist—probably an agricultural worker—came toward me. As he passed, he cheerfully called out, "Go on, little guy! It’s almost there!" We both smiled. At the end of November, the village was cold and almost deserted. Dead leaves swept the wet streets of the town. You could feel winter on the way. I continued my route to Pierrefeu-du-Var, on the western edge of the Massif des Maures. So I gave my last pedal strokes in this pretty little massif so characteristic of Provence.
I looked for a hotel in Cuers but without success. I descended toward Toulon and finally found one on the outskirts of Solliès-Pont. It catered to people coming to work in the region, so nothing very bucolic. But if the weather were to deteriorate tomorrow and turn to rain, I could quickly reach Hyères or Toulon station, which was a significant advantage. Indeed, November rains aren’t usually very pleasant on a bike.
Day Six: Solliès-Pont to Cassis via Sainte-Baume – 85 km
This morning, contrary to the weather forecast, the weather was beautiful, and the latest bulletin seemed to contradict yesterday’s. So no escape to Toulon—I resumed my route toward Sainte-Baume. I left the hotel via a tiny road that, through ups and downs, led me via shortcuts to the road to Belgentier. My body had gotten used to intense daily efforts, and I felt in Olympic form. At a good pace, I launched into a long climb with a moderate slope. The road was busy, but fortunately, the side lane for cyclists often made the exercise more pleasant. The villages rolled by—Méounes, La Roquebrussanne. Near the latter, I observed a Tiger combat helicopter in training. It hovered motionless for long periods—perhaps the pilots were training to master their increasingly sophisticated weapon systems, requiring even more learning?
I left the busy road and headed via an almost deserted route toward the village of Mazaugues. The climbs became steeper. A long descent, and there I was in this pretty village. A grocery store, which besides selling a few ingredients also served as a café. I sat near the electric heater—it was cold, and I was sweaty. I watched customers come and go and listened to the shopkeeper tell me about village life. The name Mazaugues comes from "water mass," which is why drought doesn’t usually affect this area. Apparently, you can even find mushrooms here in summer! I had a good time, and as I was leaving, a local cyclist started a conversation and told me about her dreams of long bike trips, currently limited by her situation as a mother of terrible children. She settled for day trips with her club, which was already good in this very hilly region. I told her the story of a man who, at 73, cycled solo around Morocco. So no panic—she still had thirty or forty years to realize her wildest dreams!
I was warned that it would be a tough climb to reach Sainte-Baume’s northern slope. Indeed, over eight kilometers, the average slope was sustained, but the landscape was wonderful. Here too, water was streaming everywhere. I passed one of those famous icehouses that used to supply Marseille with ice throughout the year. This northern slope of Sainte-Baume is very cold, and this characteristic was exploited in previous centuries to produce ice. Large cylindrical structures, well-protected to the north and semi-buried, received large quantities of water in late autumn, which froze during winter and was kept cool for months until the following winter. Ice blocks were cut and delivered by cart to the city. That’s how, in ancient times, ice was available in summer to keep fish fresh in Marseille. Did pastis exist at that time? If not, the ice cubes must have been bored!
Once the climb was over, the long ridge of Sainte-Baume appeared, and I could see its characteristic antennas. Nestled at the foot of the cliffs, the magnificent millennial forest revealed itself with its autumn colors. I stopped at the monastery. I’d been there several times before and had even slept there during a long walking trip. The welcome had been first-rate by the Dominicans, especially the sisters in their long immaculate robes. They radiated a serenity that was very contagious. Don’t hesitate to stop there for the night. I struggled to get back on my way—some places have a special spirit.
I was soon at the end of my journey. I continued along this magnificent mountain to the Col de l’Espigoulier. To the north, another immense wave of white limestone rose—Montagne Sainte-Victoire, a high place in Provence that painter Cézanne made world-famous. Once at the pass, the entire city of Marseille spread out at my feet, the Mediterranean coast revealed itself from the Calanques to La Ciotat, passing by the famous Cap Canaille, Europe’s highest sea cliff. Above me, bathed in sunlight, Bartagne’s northwest face, very popular among climbers, showed all its reliefs. With an old climber’s reflex, I spotted the many climbs I’d done there. I let myself be carried into a steep, winding descent toward the village of Gémenos in a beautiful setting full of cliffs.
A few more kilometers of climbing toward the Col de l’Ange, then toward Roquefort-la-Bédoule. In this last climb, I raced with two cyclists, admittedly not very young. Then, in a six-kilometer descent, I reached Cassis station, the endpoint of my six-day journey through this wild Provençal land between sea and mountain. I experienced great pleasure during these 570 kilometers through these renowned yet wild French massifs. As always, when a beautiful project comes to an end, you feel a bit orphaned by a beautiful dream come true. You have to quickly envision the next one to avoid a vague sense of emptiness taking over. My next adventure is already taking shape in my mind, but that’s another story.
Je suis curieux, quel aliment vous fait VRAIMENT perdre les pédales? Je ne parle pas nécessairement de cuisine exotique ou d’un petit plat de maman, ni d'un truc spécial que vous avez été assez "brave" pour avaler. Moi, j’aime tout ou presque, le gorgonzola et les choux à la crème et les chocolats belges et la cuisine thai et le sushi et la raclette (la liste est longue, et mon ventre grandit avec les années), etc. A la maison comme en voyage, je veux goutter à tout, de la baleine au harkla en passant par les curry, le foie gras et le mole negro, bien arrosé de St-Emilion, de chai ou d’eau pure d’un lac de l’Arctique. Délicieux ou dégueulasse (façon de parler, tout est question d’habitude), je dois l’essayer au moins une fois.
Mais rien, absolument rien n’arrive à la cheville de ce produit tellement simple mais combien magique, ou diabolique dans mon cas. Vous l’avez compris, je parle de quelque chose de profond, puissant, maladif, une « addiction » presqu’aussi forte que l’alcoolisme (avec des effets un peu moins dévastateurs tout de même…).
Ma drogue est toute simple, on en trouve partout dans toutes les épiceries ou supermarchés ou presque, à travers le monde, dans toutes les Amériques, Asie, Afrique, Europe. Je ne peux y résister. Si je sais qu’il y en a dans la maison, je ferai tous les placards et recoins pour le trouver, et quand je le tiendrai entre mes mains et que j’avalerai la première, puis la deuxième et la troisième cuillerée, je trouverai la force de caractère pour arréter, trouver un couvercle quelconque. Je le mettrai au frais dans le frigo, en espérant sincèrement que quelqu’un d’autre dans la famille finira tout avant moi, sachant très bien qu’une heure plus tard il sera toujours là. Et que je capitulerai, que je le finirai au complet comme un glouton, avec mes doigts glissant le long des parois de la boîte pour ne rien gaspiller, que je serais écoeuré et dégoûté de ma faiblesse de caractère, que j’aurai mal au ventre, et que j’aurai emmaganisé 3000 calories d’un coup!
Ce produit machiavélique qui me fait perdre toute retenue, c’est tout simplement du lait condensé sucré, du lait Nestlé comme on l’appelle encore dans quelques pays…Non, je vous en prie, ne me jugez pas trop sévèrement, je n’y peux rien…
Et vous? Partagez votre « addiction » avec moi!
Mais rien, absolument rien n’arrive à la cheville de ce produit tellement simple mais combien magique, ou diabolique dans mon cas. Vous l’avez compris, je parle de quelque chose de profond, puissant, maladif, une « addiction » presqu’aussi forte que l’alcoolisme (avec des effets un peu moins dévastateurs tout de même…).
Ma drogue est toute simple, on en trouve partout dans toutes les épiceries ou supermarchés ou presque, à travers le monde, dans toutes les Amériques, Asie, Afrique, Europe. Je ne peux y résister. Si je sais qu’il y en a dans la maison, je ferai tous les placards et recoins pour le trouver, et quand je le tiendrai entre mes mains et que j’avalerai la première, puis la deuxième et la troisième cuillerée, je trouverai la force de caractère pour arréter, trouver un couvercle quelconque. Je le mettrai au frais dans le frigo, en espérant sincèrement que quelqu’un d’autre dans la famille finira tout avant moi, sachant très bien qu’une heure plus tard il sera toujours là. Et que je capitulerai, que je le finirai au complet comme un glouton, avec mes doigts glissant le long des parois de la boîte pour ne rien gaspiller, que je serais écoeuré et dégoûté de ma faiblesse de caractère, que j’aurai mal au ventre, et que j’aurai emmaganisé 3000 calories d’un coup!
Ce produit machiavélique qui me fait perdre toute retenue, c’est tout simplement du lait condensé sucré, du lait Nestlé comme on l’appelle encore dans quelques pays…Non, je vous en prie, ne me jugez pas trop sévèrement, je n’y peux rien…
Et vous? Partagez votre « addiction » avec moi!
Bonjour
Pour réduire encore le volume de bagage à emporter en cyclotoursime, je cherche une paire de chaussures:adaptées au vélo (pédales normales)qui sèchent vite en cas de parcours sous la pluieportables à l'arrivée, que ce soit en terme de confort (visites de villes) et pas trop moches (restaurants)Exemples de chaussures:Crocs en noirDes tennis pensées pour la voileChaussures de voileSi vous utilisez ce genre de chaussure pour le cyclotourisme, qu'utilisez-vous?
Merci.
Pour réduire encore le volume de bagage à emporter en cyclotoursime, je cherche une paire de chaussures:adaptées au vélo (pédales normales)qui sèchent vite en cas de parcours sous la pluieportables à l'arrivée, que ce soit en terme de confort (visites de villes) et pas trop moches (restaurants)Exemples de chaussures:Crocs en noirDes tennis pensées pour la voileChaussures de voileSi vous utilisez ce genre de chaussure pour le cyclotourisme, qu'utilisez-vous?
Merci.
Bonjour à tous,
Je souhaite changer un peu la stratégie de chargement sur mon VTT. Actuellement j'ai 2 grosses sacoches à l'arrière + un sac à dos par dessus pour les choses courantes. Mais je commence à vouloir un peu plus de confort... Tente, duvet et matelas un peu plus gros. Je pourrais très bien ajouter un porte-bagage + 2 petites sacoches à l'avant et zou. Mais je crois que j'ai un peu envie d'essayer de me bidouiller ma petite solution. Visiblement, en parcourant le forum, je suis pas seul !
J'ai remarqué que mon porte-bagage arrière pourrait facilement s'installer à l'avant. Juste avec une bonne patte fixée sur le support du garde-boue, et sur les 2 oeillets en bas. Tête bêche. Ca permet d'avoir le catadioptre + une lumière à l'avant, et une bonne plateforme au dessus de la roue. L'idée serait d'avoir tente+duvet+matelas fagotés à l'arrière, et à l'avant 2 grosses sacoches + plus le sac à dos.
Mes doutes : les sacoches seront plus hautes et plus à l'avant (qu'avec un Tu6us Tara par ex). Plus hautes c'est intéressant (cf. le pb des sacoches qui touchent -> https://voyageforum.com/...ages_avant_D4507139/) si ça gêne pas pour tourner... Mais plus à l'avant, je me demande si ça va pas contraindre la direction ou déstabiliser, vu que que le poids sera plus loin de l'axe. J'ai jamais roulé chargé à l'avant, alors... Il y aurait moyen d'ajouter 2 tiges à mi-hauteur pour descendre un peu et ramener les sacoches plus près de la fourche.
Est-ce quelqu'un a tenté quelque-chose de la sorte ? Est-ce qu'une plate-forme à l'avant c'est pertinent, ou bien...? 🤪
Merci de vos lumières.
Je souhaite changer un peu la stratégie de chargement sur mon VTT. Actuellement j'ai 2 grosses sacoches à l'arrière + un sac à dos par dessus pour les choses courantes. Mais je commence à vouloir un peu plus de confort... Tente, duvet et matelas un peu plus gros. Je pourrais très bien ajouter un porte-bagage + 2 petites sacoches à l'avant et zou. Mais je crois que j'ai un peu envie d'essayer de me bidouiller ma petite solution. Visiblement, en parcourant le forum, je suis pas seul !
J'ai remarqué que mon porte-bagage arrière pourrait facilement s'installer à l'avant. Juste avec une bonne patte fixée sur le support du garde-boue, et sur les 2 oeillets en bas. Tête bêche. Ca permet d'avoir le catadioptre + une lumière à l'avant, et une bonne plateforme au dessus de la roue. L'idée serait d'avoir tente+duvet+matelas fagotés à l'arrière, et à l'avant 2 grosses sacoches + plus le sac à dos.
Mes doutes : les sacoches seront plus hautes et plus à l'avant (qu'avec un Tu6us Tara par ex). Plus hautes c'est intéressant (cf. le pb des sacoches qui touchent -> https://voyageforum.com/...ages_avant_D4507139/) si ça gêne pas pour tourner... Mais plus à l'avant, je me demande si ça va pas contraindre la direction ou déstabiliser, vu que que le poids sera plus loin de l'axe. J'ai jamais roulé chargé à l'avant, alors... Il y aurait moyen d'ajouter 2 tiges à mi-hauteur pour descendre un peu et ramener les sacoches plus près de la fourche.
Est-ce quelqu'un a tenté quelque-chose de la sorte ? Est-ce qu'une plate-forme à l'avant c'est pertinent, ou bien...? 🤪
Merci de vos lumières.
slt quelles chausures utilisez vous pour un tour du monde? sandale sans chausettes et basket pour les visite au moins cela evite e laver les chausettes?
J'aimerai avoir vos differentes techniques. Merci
Bonjour
après avoir étudié plusieurs possibilités d achat, mon vélociste propose un tandem route 2015 neuf MASSI, équipé en 105, qui se trouve encore en carton dans sa remise.
Je suis sur d avoir un montage de qualité, mais j aimerai savoir , si certain d entre vous , l'on deja essayé?
Dans l attente de vous lire
cordialement
laurent


Peut-on avoir un retour sur l'utilisation en mode chargé du moteur pédalier Bafang 750w associé au moyeu Shimano Alfine 11 v
je prépare pour mai 2014 le trajet Arras-St jacques de Compostelle à vélo par les routes (et non pas les chemins en vtt).
je pense revenir en avion ou: en descendant de st jacques à Porto et faire Porto-Lille avec Ryanair; ou st jacques-geneve et geneve-lille avec easyjet. est ce que quelqu'un a des conseils sur ces vols. Je suppose que le vélo doit être emballé. est ce que les 15kg du vélo passent en soute sans problème ou faut il payer un supplément ???
Hugh!
Je me demandais, quelle chaussure utiliser vous pour vos raid de longue duree a velo? Est ce qu'une paire de chassures de randonnée classique fait l'affaire (pas de chaussures specifique velo).
Merci d'avance!
Je me demandais, quelle chaussure utiliser vous pour vos raid de longue duree a velo? Est ce qu'une paire de chassures de randonnée classique fait l'affaire (pas de chaussures specifique velo).
Merci d'avance!
je voudrais savoir si la piste cotière Morondova / Tuléar ainsi que la piste Tuléar/ Fort Dauphin est praticable en vtt ? est -ce quelqu'un l'a déja fait ? possibilité de ravitaillement (village) ?
Bonjour à tous
Nous sommes un jeune couple avec un garçon de 4 ans. Nous envisageons d'aller au Maroc en juin pour un parcours en vélo avec notre petit.
Que pouvez vous nous conseiller, quel circuit, quelles étapes, comment se passe l'avion avec les vélos?.
Notre but; faire de petits parcours, légers car nous irons en gîte ou chez l'habitant, le long de la côté de préférence.
Merci d'avance pour vos réponses.
PS avons déjà fait un bout du canal du midi en vélo avec notre petit....
Bonjour,
Je vais faire un voyage de 15 jours en Pologne à vélo. Nous débarquerons à trois à Katowice (sud) et ne savons pas encore du tout quel circuit faire. On peut faire environ 1500km, on ira sans doute pas jusqu'à la côte donc puisqu'on doit revenir à Katowice.
Je suis preneur de tous conseils, infos, etc sur les beaux coins à visiter dans le sud de la Pologne (éventuellement Tchequie et Slovaquie aussi). Vu d'un point de vue de voyageur cyclotouriste on recherche surtout les belles régions, pas les grosses villes où faire la fête... On compte loger dans des fermes ou chez l'habitant si possible, le mot d'ordre étant: pas cher. On est scout et on n'a pas besoin de confort (pas besoin de lit, douche, etc... vive la débrouillardise).
Merci pour tout ce que vous pourriez me dire, hésitez pas!
Quentin
Je vais faire un voyage de 15 jours en Pologne à vélo. Nous débarquerons à trois à Katowice (sud) et ne savons pas encore du tout quel circuit faire. On peut faire environ 1500km, on ira sans doute pas jusqu'à la côte donc puisqu'on doit revenir à Katowice.
Je suis preneur de tous conseils, infos, etc sur les beaux coins à visiter dans le sud de la Pologne (éventuellement Tchequie et Slovaquie aussi). Vu d'un point de vue de voyageur cyclotouriste on recherche surtout les belles régions, pas les grosses villes où faire la fête... On compte loger dans des fermes ou chez l'habitant si possible, le mot d'ordre étant: pas cher. On est scout et on n'a pas besoin de confort (pas besoin de lit, douche, etc... vive la débrouillardise).
Merci pour tout ce que vous pourriez me dire, hésitez pas!
Quentin
bonjour,
je pars la 1ère semaine de juillet et j'aimerai savoir quels outillages vous amenez avec vous pour un périple en France d'environ 1 semaine.
j'emprunterai la vélofrancette et un bout d'EV6.
merci pour vos retours.
merci pour vos retours.
je cherches a me renseigner sur quels types de chaussures pour un voyage en velo (chateau de la loire , velodysee.... )
des chaussures sans attaches rapides
Bonjour à tous,
Avec ma compagne nous adorons voyager et depuis peu en vélo. Nous projetons pour cet été 2015, de traverser la France, du Nord au Sud, à vélo. En partant de Lille vers certainement Toulon pour prendre un bateau pour Calvi en Corse.
Nous aimerions réaliser ce périple rapidement avant que nos 2 filles grandissent, elles ont 5 et 7 ans, nous pouvons encore les tracter...
Nous ne sommes qu'aux prémices de notre projet J'ai rapidement estimé une distance d'environ 1100km avec dans les grandes lignes Lille>Reims>Troyes>Dijon>Lyon>Valence>Avignon>Toulon....Calvi, j'imagine que dans la mesure du possible il faudra malgré tout éviter les grosses agglomérations
Nous pensions dormir en camping, voir en bivouac.
Qu'en pensez vous? Avez vous une idée du temps du parcours? de la distance par jour a effectuer? du budget? de la faisabilité? des retours d'expériences?
Merci
Avec ma compagne nous adorons voyager et depuis peu en vélo. Nous projetons pour cet été 2015, de traverser la France, du Nord au Sud, à vélo. En partant de Lille vers certainement Toulon pour prendre un bateau pour Calvi en Corse.
Nous aimerions réaliser ce périple rapidement avant que nos 2 filles grandissent, elles ont 5 et 7 ans, nous pouvons encore les tracter...
Nous ne sommes qu'aux prémices de notre projet J'ai rapidement estimé une distance d'environ 1100km avec dans les grandes lignes Lille>Reims>Troyes>Dijon>Lyon>Valence>Avignon>Toulon....Calvi, j'imagine que dans la mesure du possible il faudra malgré tout éviter les grosses agglomérations
Nous pensions dormir en camping, voir en bivouac.
Qu'en pensez vous? Avez vous une idée du temps du parcours? de la distance par jour a effectuer? du budget? de la faisabilité? des retours d'expériences?
Merci
Qui roule avec le vélo de voyage Allemand Fahrradmanufaktur TX-400 et quelles sont vos impressions.
Nous sommes allez le voir en magasin et il nous a séduit.
Un truc qui est dommage dans les nouvelles séries 2015 c'est qu'ils sont en couleur Mat.
Si quelqu'un peut nous indiquer où trouver une série 2014 en taille 47 ce serais le top.
Bon week
salut à tous,
Avec un amis nous souhaitons faire le tour du lac victoria à vélo et nous aurions besoin d'informations :
nous avons quelques inquiétudes au sujet des dénivelés : comment est le relief sur les bords du lac victoria ? est-ce que ça monte beaucoup ? les tracés sur open runner présente des dénivelés un peu inquiétants (10000m de dénivelés en tout) alors quesur googleearth, les photos et l'altitude données semble indiquer que c'est plutot plat...
Pour les visas est-ce que nous devons perdre une journeé à chaque frontière ou bien ça se fait facilement ?
Est-ce que nous trouverons facilement des endroits pour dormir ? est-ce qu'il y a des guest house ?
Niveau sécurité (bestioles comme banditisme) on court des risques ? on risque de rencontrer des hippopotames ? des crocos ?
Avec un amis nous souhaitons faire le tour du lac victoria à vélo et nous aurions besoin d'informations :
nous avons quelques inquiétudes au sujet des dénivelés : comment est le relief sur les bords du lac victoria ? est-ce que ça monte beaucoup ? les tracés sur open runner présente des dénivelés un peu inquiétants (10000m de dénivelés en tout) alors quesur googleearth, les photos et l'altitude données semble indiquer que c'est plutot plat...
Pour les visas est-ce que nous devons perdre une journeé à chaque frontière ou bien ça se fait facilement ?
Est-ce que nous trouverons facilement des endroits pour dormir ? est-ce qu'il y a des guest house ?
Niveau sécurité (bestioles comme banditisme) on court des risques ? on risque de rencontrer des hippopotames ? des crocos ?
Bonjour amis voyageurs à vélo, ou plutot bonne nuit vu l'heure à laquelle je poste.... oh joie du décalage horaire 🤪
Je viens partager brièvement ma première expérience du voyage à vélo. Il y a 2 ans, j'arpentais ce forum en quete de nombreuses réponses à mes interrogations. Quel période pour partir? Quel vélo? Quel matériel? Comment gérer la solitude? ... et pleins d'autres encore. J'ai préparé ce voyage pendant 2 ans, pour qu'il se passe au mieux, et au final ces 3 mois ont été encore mieux que je ne l'espérais, et ils sont passé à une vitesse... 🙂
Je me rappelle des messages de certains d'entre vous qui disaient qu'une fois sur le vélo tout le stress et l'apréhension disparaissaient, j'ai eu beaucoup de mal à vous croire, mais je dois bien avouer que c'est exactement ce qui s'est passé pour moi aussi. Pourtant, les 4 derniers mois avant le départ ont été infernals, stressants et pleins de doutes. Le vol entre Orly et Newark s'est déroulé de la pire des manières, je me trompe d'aéroport, mon emballage pour le vélo est refusé, je dois racheter un autre carton cher et bien trop petit. Je dois démonter le vélo à l'arrache, mais il est trop tard, il part dans la soute du prochain vol, je récupère miracleusement celui ci 4h après mon atterissage à New York.
Mais dès lors que j'ai donné mes premiers coups de pédales, tous les doutes et les questions se sont envolés et j'ai vécu certainement les plus belles semaines de mon existence, j'ai réalisé un reve, celui de relier New York à San Francisco en passant par des lieux magiques comme Monument Valley, Zion NP ou encore Death Valley.
A aucun moment j'ai regretté d'etre parti, je ne me suis jamais ennuyé, je n'ai jamais souffert de la solitude, on est Jamais seul quand on voyage en solo à vélo. Bref je ne vais pas raconter toute mon aventure dans ce post (mon blog le fait déjà très bien), mais je voulais encourager les personnes qui préparent leur premier voyage à vélo, ou à celles qui hésitent encore à partir. Allez Y !!!!
Avec un minimum de préparation et d'envie, tout le monde peut le faire, j'en suis persuadé aujourd'hui.
@ plus
Romain
Je viens partager brièvement ma première expérience du voyage à vélo. Il y a 2 ans, j'arpentais ce forum en quete de nombreuses réponses à mes interrogations. Quel période pour partir? Quel vélo? Quel matériel? Comment gérer la solitude? ... et pleins d'autres encore. J'ai préparé ce voyage pendant 2 ans, pour qu'il se passe au mieux, et au final ces 3 mois ont été encore mieux que je ne l'espérais, et ils sont passé à une vitesse... 🙂
Je me rappelle des messages de certains d'entre vous qui disaient qu'une fois sur le vélo tout le stress et l'apréhension disparaissaient, j'ai eu beaucoup de mal à vous croire, mais je dois bien avouer que c'est exactement ce qui s'est passé pour moi aussi. Pourtant, les 4 derniers mois avant le départ ont été infernals, stressants et pleins de doutes. Le vol entre Orly et Newark s'est déroulé de la pire des manières, je me trompe d'aéroport, mon emballage pour le vélo est refusé, je dois racheter un autre carton cher et bien trop petit. Je dois démonter le vélo à l'arrache, mais il est trop tard, il part dans la soute du prochain vol, je récupère miracleusement celui ci 4h après mon atterissage à New York.
Mais dès lors que j'ai donné mes premiers coups de pédales, tous les doutes et les questions se sont envolés et j'ai vécu certainement les plus belles semaines de mon existence, j'ai réalisé un reve, celui de relier New York à San Francisco en passant par des lieux magiques comme Monument Valley, Zion NP ou encore Death Valley.
A aucun moment j'ai regretté d'etre parti, je ne me suis jamais ennuyé, je n'ai jamais souffert de la solitude, on est Jamais seul quand on voyage en solo à vélo. Bref je ne vais pas raconter toute mon aventure dans ce post (mon blog le fait déjà très bien), mais je voulais encourager les personnes qui préparent leur premier voyage à vélo, ou à celles qui hésitent encore à partir. Allez Y !!!!
Avec un minimum de préparation et d'envie, tout le monde peut le faire, j'en suis persuadé aujourd'hui.
@ plus
Romain
Bonjour dans l'éventualité d'un voyage aux Etats Unis en tandem , y a t il une ou plusieurs compagnie qui sont plus sujettes à transporter un tandem, merci d'avance.
Après avoir passé beaucoup de temps à lire les expériences des autres sur ce forum, et suite à un changement de cap professionnel qui m'a permis de prendre congé tout l'été, je m'étais destiné à accomplir un tour de France. Malheureusement, les circonstances m'ont obligé à revoir le périple à la baisse avec quand même au final une superbe première expérience qui m'a conduit de la Belgique à l'Ile de Ré puis à un tour de Bretagne. Voici mes réflexions qui pourront peut-être aider les débutants en quête de conseils.
1. Le vélo: mon biclou est mon vélotaf, un cadre alu avec fourche suspendue de 17 ans d'âge, pas un foudre de guerre, un vélo décent que j'ai payé 190 euros en seconde main, équipé petit à petit d'une potence haute, d'un guidon papillon, de garde-boue décents, de pédales plates. Le gros budget étant pour une paire de pneus Schwalbe Marathon Tour Plus. Plus que suffisant, les premiers jours étaient durs, mais je me suis habitué à rouler chargé relativement vite, pas d'ennuis mécaniques si ce n'est une vilaine cassure de 5 rayons qui m'a obligé à écourter le voyage. Pas besoin d'un Surly ou d'un Koga, mon vélo quelconque a très bien fait l'affaire.
2. Les sacoches: des Air avant et arrière de chez Julien, achetées sur son site cyclo-randonnée, montées sur des porte-bagages Zéfal, le tout pour un budget plancher, elles se sont révélées parfaites, la pluie de juillet n'a pas réussi à percer le tissu, les housses sont bien pensées, le tout offrant un volume important, et surtout, elles sont faciles à laver après plusieurs jours de boue/poussière. J'avais voulu économiser sur la sacoche de guidon en bricolant un système d'attache de mon sac photo, étant photographe amateur passionné, mais ça n'a pas tenu et j'ai dû acheter une sacoche Vaude Road I de 6L à l'arrache, payée très cher et d'un volume qui n'est pas adapté à mon Nikon D7000. Une économie qui m'aura coûté cher au final...
3. La tente et le matos camping: une Coleman de 46 euros sur Amazon, volume ample, très bonne tenue au vent, parfaitement étanche, qui a séché au vent en quelques minutes sous le soleil d'après-midi après avoir dû la rouler trempée le matin. Un matelas thermarest d'occase payé 10 euros (de 10 ans!) qui a très bien fait l'affaire, un sac de couchage Meru acheté en Allemagne l'été précédent que j'ai plus utilisé comme duvet. Les rares nuits froides, un T-shirt supplémentaire a fait l'affaire. Tout le petit matos de camping était souvent du premier prix de chez D4 et a parfaitement marché, exception faite de la lanterne à piles qui pesait une tonne et qui a très peu servi, la nuit tombant tard l'été et j'étais alors souvent endormi.
4. Les vêtements: grosse erreur... J'avais emporté beaucoup trop de vêtements, mal adaptés (3 cuissards, 2 shorts, 5 T-shirts, batterie de sous-vêtements) qui ont monopolisé une sacoche entière. À refaire, un tiers de ce que j'avais emporté aurait largement suffi. Cantonné à la France, il m'était possible de laver le linge partout en peu de temps, voire de trouver un D4 pour acheter à moindre coût ce qui m'aurait manqué. Heureusement, ma compagne m'a retrouvé sur l'Ile de Ré et j'ai pu me débarrasser du superflu. J'ai gardé un pantalon long et une chemise pour mes visites de villes.
5. La planification du trajet: J'ai repris l'an dernier des études, et les examens et les stages pratiques de mai et juin ne m'ont pas permis de peaufiner mon trajet. De plus, mon budget final était nettement moindre que prévu. J'ai dû revoir le trajet complet, refait en une soirée et sans recherches trop approfondies. Cela m'a un peu déçu, car je suis passé à côté de quelques sites et villes qui auraient valu le détour. Je m'étais cantonné à circuler sur les départementales, un Michelin plastifié m'a amplement suffi, les cartes détaillées m'étant fournies gratuitementau fur et à mesure aux offices de tourisme des régions traversées.
1. Le vélo: mon biclou est mon vélotaf, un cadre alu avec fourche suspendue de 17 ans d'âge, pas un foudre de guerre, un vélo décent que j'ai payé 190 euros en seconde main, équipé petit à petit d'une potence haute, d'un guidon papillon, de garde-boue décents, de pédales plates. Le gros budget étant pour une paire de pneus Schwalbe Marathon Tour Plus. Plus que suffisant, les premiers jours étaient durs, mais je me suis habitué à rouler chargé relativement vite, pas d'ennuis mécaniques si ce n'est une vilaine cassure de 5 rayons qui m'a obligé à écourter le voyage. Pas besoin d'un Surly ou d'un Koga, mon vélo quelconque a très bien fait l'affaire.
2. Les sacoches: des Air avant et arrière de chez Julien, achetées sur son site cyclo-randonnée, montées sur des porte-bagages Zéfal, le tout pour un budget plancher, elles se sont révélées parfaites, la pluie de juillet n'a pas réussi à percer le tissu, les housses sont bien pensées, le tout offrant un volume important, et surtout, elles sont faciles à laver après plusieurs jours de boue/poussière. J'avais voulu économiser sur la sacoche de guidon en bricolant un système d'attache de mon sac photo, étant photographe amateur passionné, mais ça n'a pas tenu et j'ai dû acheter une sacoche Vaude Road I de 6L à l'arrache, payée très cher et d'un volume qui n'est pas adapté à mon Nikon D7000. Une économie qui m'aura coûté cher au final...
3. La tente et le matos camping: une Coleman de 46 euros sur Amazon, volume ample, très bonne tenue au vent, parfaitement étanche, qui a séché au vent en quelques minutes sous le soleil d'après-midi après avoir dû la rouler trempée le matin. Un matelas thermarest d'occase payé 10 euros (de 10 ans!) qui a très bien fait l'affaire, un sac de couchage Meru acheté en Allemagne l'été précédent que j'ai plus utilisé comme duvet. Les rares nuits froides, un T-shirt supplémentaire a fait l'affaire. Tout le petit matos de camping était souvent du premier prix de chez D4 et a parfaitement marché, exception faite de la lanterne à piles qui pesait une tonne et qui a très peu servi, la nuit tombant tard l'été et j'étais alors souvent endormi.
4. Les vêtements: grosse erreur... J'avais emporté beaucoup trop de vêtements, mal adaptés (3 cuissards, 2 shorts, 5 T-shirts, batterie de sous-vêtements) qui ont monopolisé une sacoche entière. À refaire, un tiers de ce que j'avais emporté aurait largement suffi. Cantonné à la France, il m'était possible de laver le linge partout en peu de temps, voire de trouver un D4 pour acheter à moindre coût ce qui m'aurait manqué. Heureusement, ma compagne m'a retrouvé sur l'Ile de Ré et j'ai pu me débarrasser du superflu. J'ai gardé un pantalon long et une chemise pour mes visites de villes.
5. La planification du trajet: J'ai repris l'an dernier des études, et les examens et les stages pratiques de mai et juin ne m'ont pas permis de peaufiner mon trajet. De plus, mon budget final était nettement moindre que prévu. J'ai dû revoir le trajet complet, refait en une soirée et sans recherches trop approfondies. Cela m'a un peu déçu, car je suis passé à côté de quelques sites et villes qui auraient valu le détour. Je m'étais cantonné à circuler sur les départementales, un Michelin plastifié m'a amplement suffi, les cartes détaillées m'étant fournies gratuitementau fur et à mesure aux offices de tourisme des régions traversées.
Voyages avec le vélo pliable BIRDY
Bonjour à tous les possesseurs du Birdy,
J'hésite entre partir avec une randonneuse classique et le Birdy au niveau du transport en avion. Possesseurs de Birdy, comment procédez-vous ? - housse ou carton ? - si housse, quel type de housse ? Simple tissus ou bâche épaisse ? - simple pliage ou pliage + démontage des roues et autres accessoires ? - autres protections ? - autre "combine CCI" spécial avion ?
Et d'une manière générale, je suis preneur de tout commentaire au sujet de ce vélo. Par exemple, pour les sacoches avant en avez-vous ? Quel type de fixation ?
Bonne journée.
Philippe
J'hésite entre partir avec une randonneuse classique et le Birdy au niveau du transport en avion. Possesseurs de Birdy, comment procédez-vous ? - housse ou carton ? - si housse, quel type de housse ? Simple tissus ou bâche épaisse ? - simple pliage ou pliage + démontage des roues et autres accessoires ? - autres protections ? - autre "combine CCI" spécial avion ?
Et d'une manière générale, je suis preneur de tout commentaire au sujet de ce vélo. Par exemple, pour les sacoches avant en avez-vous ? Quel type de fixation ?
Bonne journée.
Philippe
Bonjour à toutes et à tous !!
Je m'apelle Jonathan et ai 24 ans. Je suis mordu de voyage depuis longtemps et j'ai décidé de me lancer cet été dans un tour de France à vélo partant de Strasbourg. J'aimerai donner les premiers coups de pédales aux alentours du 9-10 juin 2011 seul ou accompagné (accompagné de préférence^^)🙂. D'où la création de ce post. Je rentre d'australie ou j'ai passé 2 ans à silloner les routes du pays en van. J'ai fait pas mal de rencontres via ce genre de forum ce qui me pousse à réitérer l'expérience!! L'itinéraire (très général) serai : Strasbourg - Nice - Hendaye - Qimper - Strasbourg en passant par les petites routes de campagnes etc...Je suis un habitué du vélo, mais afin de profiter un maximum du voyage je pense me limiter à un parcours journalier d'environ 80-100 km/jour. Cela va faire 3 mois que je réfléchi sérieusement à l'organisation de ce voyage (non non ce n'est pas sur un coup de tête). En ce qui concerne l'équipement j'ai fait l'aquisition récement d'un vélo gitane vision (version 2011), 4 sacoches, et une tente vaude hogan XT.En ce qui concerne l'hébergement, l'idée est de privilégier le camping sauvage afin de minimiser les couts du voyage. Donc si parmis vous certains se sentent de faire un bout (ou gros bout) de chemin en ma compagnie n'hésitez pas et contactez moi 😛 (jonathan.bachtarzi@laposte.net).
A très bientot
jonathan
Je m'apelle Jonathan et ai 24 ans. Je suis mordu de voyage depuis longtemps et j'ai décidé de me lancer cet été dans un tour de France à vélo partant de Strasbourg. J'aimerai donner les premiers coups de pédales aux alentours du 9-10 juin 2011 seul ou accompagné (accompagné de préférence^^)🙂. D'où la création de ce post. Je rentre d'australie ou j'ai passé 2 ans à silloner les routes du pays en van. J'ai fait pas mal de rencontres via ce genre de forum ce qui me pousse à réitérer l'expérience!! L'itinéraire (très général) serai : Strasbourg - Nice - Hendaye - Qimper - Strasbourg en passant par les petites routes de campagnes etc...Je suis un habitué du vélo, mais afin de profiter un maximum du voyage je pense me limiter à un parcours journalier d'environ 80-100 km/jour. Cela va faire 3 mois que je réfléchi sérieusement à l'organisation de ce voyage (non non ce n'est pas sur un coup de tête). En ce qui concerne l'équipement j'ai fait l'aquisition récement d'un vélo gitane vision (version 2011), 4 sacoches, et une tente vaude hogan XT.En ce qui concerne l'hébergement, l'idée est de privilégier le camping sauvage afin de minimiser les couts du voyage. Donc si parmis vous certains se sentent de faire un bout (ou gros bout) de chemin en ma compagnie n'hésitez pas et contactez moi 😛 (jonathan.bachtarzi@laposte.net).
A très bientot
jonathan
bonsoir
y as t il un inconvenient de monter des sacoches avant de la meme capacitè que les arrieres , , c a dire 40 litres a l ar et a l avant , , au lieu de 40 a l ar et 25 litres a l avant , , je suis en roues de 700
qu en pensez vous 😠
y as t il un inconvenient de monter des sacoches avant de la meme capacitè que les arrieres , , c a dire 40 litres a l ar et a l avant , , au lieu de 40 a l ar et 25 litres a l avant , , je suis en roues de 700
qu en pensez vous 😠
Bonjour,
je souhaite partir d'ici 2 semaines (donc en plein hiver... 😕 ) pour un trajet partant environ de Montpellier jusqu'à Istanbul. Je me laisse 2 mois. J'ai choisi plus ou moins cette route: http://www.bikemap.net/route/740256

Quelques passages en montagne qu'on ne peut pas éviter (centre de l'Italie et régions montagneuses après la côte grecque) sont à prévoir. Cet itinéraire est très provisoire et va évoluer au fil de mon trajet et en fonction du climat. Je suis donc preneur de toute suggestion quant aux routes choisies et aux villes que je pourrais traverser. J'ai longtemps hésité sur le choix de passer par la Slovénie puis de descendre par la Croatie>Montenegro etc. mais j'ai peur de trop me taper de dénivelé (et donc de neige...). La côte italienne m'a l'air plus clémente en cette saison.
Le point le plus épineux sur lequel, bizarrement, je ne trouve pas de clarification, c'est le passage de la frontière Grèce-Turquie. Comme vous pouvez voir sur mon itinéraire, je suis arrêté à la frontière au niveau d'Ipsala (le logiciel de Bikemap refuse de me faire passer la frontière et me fait faire un " gigantesque tour" par la Bulgarie). Des idées? Des conseils pour passer en Turquie depuis la Grèce? Il n'y a pas qu'un poste frontière quand même!
Pour info, voici ma monture (manquent les bidons, les pédales auto et une grosse sacoche transversale sur l'arrière qui couvre les deux latérales.

Trois petites inquiétudes:Ma jante arrière: j'espère qu'elle tiendra!!Ma tige de selle: j'espère qu'elle ne pliera pas!!Mes sections de pneu: du 35 pour être plus roulant. J'espère que ça suffira!!
je souhaite partir d'ici 2 semaines (donc en plein hiver... 😕 ) pour un trajet partant environ de Montpellier jusqu'à Istanbul. Je me laisse 2 mois. J'ai choisi plus ou moins cette route: http://www.bikemap.net/route/740256

Quelques passages en montagne qu'on ne peut pas éviter (centre de l'Italie et régions montagneuses après la côte grecque) sont à prévoir. Cet itinéraire est très provisoire et va évoluer au fil de mon trajet et en fonction du climat. Je suis donc preneur de toute suggestion quant aux routes choisies et aux villes que je pourrais traverser. J'ai longtemps hésité sur le choix de passer par la Slovénie puis de descendre par la Croatie>Montenegro etc. mais j'ai peur de trop me taper de dénivelé (et donc de neige...). La côte italienne m'a l'air plus clémente en cette saison.
Le point le plus épineux sur lequel, bizarrement, je ne trouve pas de clarification, c'est le passage de la frontière Grèce-Turquie. Comme vous pouvez voir sur mon itinéraire, je suis arrêté à la frontière au niveau d'Ipsala (le logiciel de Bikemap refuse de me faire passer la frontière et me fait faire un " gigantesque tour" par la Bulgarie). Des idées? Des conseils pour passer en Turquie depuis la Grèce? Il n'y a pas qu'un poste frontière quand même!
Pour info, voici ma monture (manquent les bidons, les pédales auto et une grosse sacoche transversale sur l'arrière qui couvre les deux latérales.

Trois petites inquiétudes:Ma jante arrière: j'espère qu'elle tiendra!!Ma tige de selle: j'espère qu'elle ne pliera pas!!Mes sections de pneu: du 35 pour être plus roulant. J'espère que ça suffira!!
Bonjour,
Dans le cadre de la preparation de notre TDM vélo (depart juillet 2010) nous avons un vélo qui nous interesse mais étant des novices en ce qui conerne le metriel, nous aimerions beaucoup avoir votre avis!!
Voici les caracteristiques du velo Gitane Vision
cadre alu hydroformé
fourche alu
derailleurs shimano SLX
manette shimano 27 v.
pedalier shimano 26x36x48
roue libre shimano 11x32
Moyeuc avant dynamo
Jantes spectra
Pneus spectra duramax renforcés 700x40
potence reglable sans outil
porte bagage alu double jambage (avant et arriere)
Poids: 15, 7 kg
Prix: 750 €
Ce velo nous interesse car il se situe notre gamme de prix (max 1200 € incluant des sacoches impermeables).
Nous avons egalement pris contact avec Meilenwelt mais notre budget est assz limité par rapport à leur gamme.
Qu'en pensez-vous? Nous recherchons un velo simple mais robuste.
D'avance merci pour vos precieux conseils!!
Ce velo nous interesse car il se situe notre gamme de prix (max 1200 € incluant des sacoches impermeables).
Nous avons egalement pris contact avec Meilenwelt mais notre budget est assz limité par rapport à leur gamme.
Qu'en pensez-vous? Nous recherchons un velo simple mais robuste.
D'avance merci pour vos precieux conseils!!











