EuroVelo 8 de Trieste (Italie) à Rijeka (Croatie)
by Kerm1t
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Bonjour à toutes et tous,
Nous sommes étudiants et nous entamons cet été un voyage en tandem à travers l'Europe. L'itinéraire est achevé, mais la circulation et les grands axes entre Udine (Italie) et Rijeka (Croatie) posent problème. Est-ce que certains d'entre vous ont déjà parcouru cette zone, et quelles sont les recommandations? Y a-t-il des pistes cyclables ? L'eurovélo 8 entre Trieste et Rijeka existe-t-elle ou n'est elle encore qu'un projet?
Merci pour vos réponses.
CD
le plus court serait de descendre d'Udine vers Trieste puis couper la presqu'île d'Istrie. Mais je ne garde pas un bon souvenir de ma traversée de Trieste à vélo : pas vu de voie cyclable, signalisation routière qui rabat vers des voies express...
Sinon, avec un peu plus de km et de dévivelé, il y a un itinéraire possible au nord, partiellement en voies cyclables ou petites routes : Tarvisio, passo Fusine, Kranjska Gora, Bled, Ljubljana, puis couper le karst vers le sud pour rejoindre Rijeka. Plus long mais joli.
Entre les 2, un autre itinéraire qui peut être un bon compromis, sans pistes cyclables mais sur des routes tout-à-fait supportables : avant la côte, bifurquer d'Udine vers Gorizia / Nova Gorica. L'autoroute H4 Nova Gorica - Ajdovcsina - Razdrto est doublée tout le long par l'ancienne route qui, du coup, n'est pas trop fréquentée (les Slovènes ont une vignette autoroute annuelle, donc quand il y a un bout d'autoroute, ils le prennent). Ensuite 2 routes possibles à travers le sud du karst. Si vous prenez celle de Divaca, vous passerez tout près de la grotte de Skocjan, un peu moins connue que Postojna, mais qui mérite une visite.
Entre les 2, un autre itinéraire qui peut être un bon compromis, sans pistes cyclables mais sur des routes tout-à-fait supportables : avant la côte, bifurquer d'Udine vers Gorizia / Nova Gorica. L'autoroute H4 Nova Gorica - Ajdovcsina - Razdrto est doublée tout le long par l'ancienne route qui, du coup, n'est pas trop fréquentée (les Slovènes ont une vignette autoroute annuelle, donc quand il y a un bout d'autoroute, ils le prennent). Ensuite 2 routes possibles à travers le sud du karst. Si vous prenez celle de Divaca, vous passerez tout près de la grotte de Skocjan, un peu moins connue que Postojna, mais qui mérite une visite.
Bonjour,
Nous partons également en tandem cet été (de trieste, italie à partas, grèce). J'ai quelques questions à te poser:
- Avez vous pris le train avec le tandem en italie? quels trains prennent les vélos? pas trop galère?
- avez vous continué après rijeka? si oui peux tu me dire rapidement par où vous êtes passé (îles, cote ...)?
- par où êtes vous passé finalement entre trieste et rijeka?
merci bien
flora
- avez vous continué après rijeka? si oui peux tu me dire rapidement par où vous êtes passé (îles, cote ...)?
- par où êtes vous passé finalement entre trieste et rijeka?
merci bien
flora
Salut,
J'ai relié Venise à Dubrovnik il y'a 2 ans en passant par là. A Trieste le problème, c'est que la 4 voies qui va à Rijeka est interdite aux vélos, forcément. Les carabinieri veillent et il faudrait être suicidaire de toute façon car les voitures roulent vite et il y'a une succession de ponts et tunnels.
Pour la contourner, un des moyen consiste à suivre la cote jusqu'à Muggia puis continuer en direction de Koper pour récupérer la " départementale " 409 vers Ljulbiana ! Une fois à Kozina, tu prends la " nationale " 7 pour Rijeka qui se trouve à 80 bornes de là si je me souviens. Ça fait un sacré détour mais le paysage est très agréable avec de nombreux endroits pour bivouaquer. Évite de planter juste avant ou après Rijeka, car c'est beaucoup plus difficile.
Salut,
J'ai relié Venise à Dubrovnik il y'a 2 ans en passant par là. A Trieste le problème, c'est que la 4 voies qui va à Rijeka est interdite aux vélos, forcément. Les carabinieri veillent et il faudrait être suicidaire de toute façon car les voitures roulent vite et il y'a une succession de ponts et tunnels.
Pour la contourner, un des moyen consiste à suivre la cote jusqu'à Muggia puis continuer en direction de Koper pour récupérer la " départementale " 409 vers Ljulbiana ! Une fois à Kozina, tu prends la " nationale " 7 pour Rijeka qui se trouve à 80 bornes de là si je me souviens. Ça fait un sacré détour mais le paysage est très agréable avec de nombreux endroits pour bivouaquer. Évite de planter juste avant ou après Rijeka, car c'est beaucoup plus difficile.
You own a car, not the road !
super!! En effet il vaut mieux ne pas se retrouver sur la 4 voies à vélo!
Comme ça fait un détour par le sud je me demande si vous n'allons pas changer itinéraire et plutot traverser l'istrie pour aller jusqu'à Brestova pour prendre un bateau et rejoindre l'île de Cres.
Sais tu s'il y a beaucoup de dénivelé par cette route?
Faire Tout Cres à Vélo, de Mali Losinj à L'autre bout de l'île, à Brestova, ça peut être dément.
Je l'ai fait en voiture, c'était Magnifique, mais vraiment magnifique !
Je recommande chaudement.
Ferry piéton : Pula - Mali losinj
La Slovénie, un pays magnifique et préservé du tourisme de masse à découvrir sur http://slovenie-secrete.fr
petites infos sur une descente à vélo le long de la côte croate de Venise à Dubrovnik en 2006, si ça peut aider
- ferry de Venise à Porec
- Istrie à vélo : Porec - Rovinj - Pula (100km) ; Pula - Moskenichka (100km) l'Istrie est à faire à vélo !
- ferry pour l'île de Cres (50 km sur l"île) ; puis ferry pour Krk (60km sur l'île) ; puis ferry pour Rab (entre Baska et Lopar) ; puis petit bout de la côte croate (environ 30km) avant de reprendre un ferry pour Pag ; traversée de l'île de Pag magnifique, malgré le soleil sur des routes sans ombre
- détour par le parc de Paklenica (rando), puis longe la côte : Zadar - Pescora (110km) ; Pescora - Split (75km) ; Split - Ploce (120km) ; Ploce - Dubrovnik (105km)
Préférer les îles à la côte, trop touristique et trop bétonnée (déjà en 2006 !) à mon goût. Bon, il ne faut pas s'attendre à du plat dans les îles ; et même l'Istrie a du relief ! Pour le train en Italie, j'ai pas eu trop de mal à trouver des wagons acceptant le vélo (Nice - Gênes - Milan - Venise). Pour le retour, j'ai même trouvé un train reliant Zagreb à Venise en passant par Ljubljana
Bon voyage ! sebb
Préférer les îles à la côte, trop touristique et trop bétonnée (déjà en 2006 !) à mon goût. Bon, il ne faut pas s'attendre à du plat dans les îles ; et même l'Istrie a du relief ! Pour le train en Italie, j'ai pas eu trop de mal à trouver des wagons acceptant le vélo (Nice - Gênes - Milan - Venise). Pour le retour, j'ai même trouvé un train reliant Zagreb à Venise en passant par Ljubljana
Bon voyage ! sebb
Bonjour,
qu'en est-il des ferry entre Venise et Porec? Je ne trouve que des ferry qui n'acceptent pas les véhicules (et donc les vélos visiblement?). Faut-il prévoir ses billets de ferry à l'avance ou ce n'est pas nécessaire?
Merci pour toute vos infos, je commence à chercher un itinéraire pour aout et ce n'est pas facile...
qu'en est-il des ferry entre Venise et Porec? Je ne trouve que des ferry qui n'acceptent pas les véhicules (et donc les vélos visiblement?). Faut-il prévoir ses billets de ferry à l'avance ou ce n'est pas nécessaire?
Merci pour toute vos infos, je commence à chercher un itinéraire pour aout et ce n'est pas facile...
Salut,
désolé pour le flou, mais ce voyage en Croatie remonte à quelques temps déjà (mes infos vont donc dater un peu !) ; c'était mon deuxième voyage à vélo, et j'étais en tout cas ravi de l'aventure.
Le ferry Venise-Porec est un ferry piéton. Comme souvent les vélos sont acceptés. Mon vélo à trouver sa place dans un petit sas à côté de la salle des machines. Après si vous êtes dix cyclos à vouloir embarquer... Mais bon j'étais le seul vélo ; une explication peut-être à cela : la traversée (quoique courte) m'a coûté un bras ! J'avais réservé à l'avance ; le bateau n'était pas plein, mais c'était en septembre.
Je ne connais pas ton itinéraire, mais une autre alternative est de prendre un train international de Mestre (gare de Venise) en direction de Budapest, et de s'arrêter à Ljubljana. De là, possibilité de rejoindre l'Istrie par la Slovénie par des routes plus tranquilles que la route Venise - Trieste. La Slovénie est un beau petit pays, et les gens sont accueillants.
En espérant avoir donné quelques pistes, pas trop up date !
sebb
désolé pour le flou, mais ce voyage en Croatie remonte à quelques temps déjà (mes infos vont donc dater un peu !) ; c'était mon deuxième voyage à vélo, et j'étais en tout cas ravi de l'aventure.
Le ferry Venise-Porec est un ferry piéton. Comme souvent les vélos sont acceptés. Mon vélo à trouver sa place dans un petit sas à côté de la salle des machines. Après si vous êtes dix cyclos à vouloir embarquer... Mais bon j'étais le seul vélo ; une explication peut-être à cela : la traversée (quoique courte) m'a coûté un bras ! J'avais réservé à l'avance ; le bateau n'était pas plein, mais c'était en septembre.
Je ne connais pas ton itinéraire, mais une autre alternative est de prendre un train international de Mestre (gare de Venise) en direction de Budapest, et de s'arrêter à Ljubljana. De là, possibilité de rejoindre l'Istrie par la Slovénie par des routes plus tranquilles que la route Venise - Trieste. La Slovénie est un beau petit pays, et les gens sont accueillants.
En espérant avoir donné quelques pistes, pas trop up date !
sebb
Salut Sebb, merci pour ta réponse !
Bon entre temps les idées ont fusées et pour diverses raisons on part finalement pour le....Portugal. On décolle mardi matin (alors qu'on était sensé partir en aout...) donc il va falloir que je me documente un peu d'ici là.
Bonnes routes à tous et à toutes pour cet été !
Bon entre temps les idées ont fusées et pour diverses raisons on part finalement pour le....Portugal. On décolle mardi matin (alors qu'on était sensé partir en aout...) donc il va falloir que je me documente un peu d'ici là.
Bonnes routes à tous et à toutes pour cet été !
le Portugal c'est bien aussi :)
boa viagem !
boa viagem !
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I plan to start around Temuco in Chile, with the idea of heading toward the lakes, then taking the Carretera Austral. I’m not sure if I’ll go all the way to Ushuaia—it’s supposed to not be *that* worth it, except for the bragging rights of saying you’ve been to the end of the world.
I saw there are lakes in Argentina too.
I don’t have a precise itinerary, but what I’d love is, once I reach the southernmost point of my trip, to take a mini-cruise to see some wildlife. Any tips for that?
What kind of sleeping bag did you take? Is a 0°C (32°F) one enough? And one last question: white gas stove or can I get by with my gas stove?
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Once the route is ready, it can be exported as a GPX file, which can then be used with a GPS or a mobile navigation app.
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https://youtu.be/_GDJi-GqmkM
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I’ve gotten used to crossing Europe by bus to return by bike.
It was really convenient to take the bike without having to disassemble it.
But FlixBus no longer accepts bikes...
What alternatives do you know about?
Thanks.
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Our full story:
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You can also find all our cycling travel stories on the forum:
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I’m making an exception and creating a separate post this time, since it’s all about France. In May, we spent a week in Provence, specifically in the Luberon, exploring the cycling routes *Autour du Luberon à Vélo*, the *Véloroute du Calavon* (part of EuroVelo 8), and the shorter *Les Ocres à Vélo* route. Together, they gave us an amazing journey through rolling hills, vineyards, lavender fields still green in spring, and some of the most stunning landscapes in southern France.

It was, of course, the perched villages that impressed us the most. We visited Gordes, Roussillon, Bonnieux, Lacoste, Lourmarin, Ménerbes, Oppède-le-Vieux, Cucuron, and Lauris. Many of them are among the most beautiful villages in Provence, and it’s hard not to agree with that reputation.




One interesting point is the route of EuroVelo 8 in this part of the region. The official path mainly follows the old railway line of the *Véloroute du Calavon*, which is very comfortable and safe. But in our opinion, cyclists traveling EuroVelo 8 around the Mediterranean would discover even more treasures if the route passed through villages like Bonnieux, Lacoste, or Oppède-le-Vieux.


We were also pleasantly surprised by how safe cycling felt. Most of the route takes small local roads, but traffic is light, drivers are respectful, and road design really takes cyclists into account. It’s one of those places where you can ride peacefully even without separated bike lanes.



Our full story:
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You can also find all our cycling travel stories on the forum:
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zouli
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http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/auvergne-Ralpes/
the trip was completed story being posted online soon 1100 km in 11 days beautiful and varied regions
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the trip was completed story being posted online soon 1100 km in 11 days beautiful and varied regions
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The suspension is gone, and there’s an oil leak from the seals.
Does anyone know how to repair it? Where can I find parts that are about fifteen years old? Or where to find an identical replacement fork? Just to clarify, the Magura HS11 brakes are mounted using Firm Tech, meaning they’re on pivots behind the fork, facing the frame.
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hey everyone,
I’m landing in Madagascar with a buddy before the end of April 2026. We’re planning to bike around for about twenty days or so. We don’t have a specific goal other than exploring the country and meeting the locals.
Ideally, we’d prefer a loop route starting from Antananarivo with a good chunk of it along the coast. On the bike side, we’re used to riding 6 to 8 hours a day, depending on the needs, encounters, and mood 😉 Any feedback or tips from trips around this length?
Thanks in advance, Jérôme
I’m landing in Madagascar with a buddy before the end of April 2026. We’re planning to bike around for about twenty days or so. We don’t have a specific goal other than exploring the country and meeting the locals.
Ideally, we’d prefer a loop route starting from Antananarivo with a good chunk of it along the coast. On the bike side, we’re used to riding 6 to 8 hours a day, depending on the needs, encounters, and mood 😉 Any feedback or tips from trips around this length?
Thanks in advance, Jérôme
A big thank you to Lazarou for all the info you share in this forum!
I'm passionate about Morocco, which I cycled through back in 2009.
Last year, my wife and I explored the High Atlas by tandem. Completely smitten, we're heading back in April (Anti Atlas) and May (High and Middle Atlas), still on our tandem.
Do you have any info on the track between Amezri and Ali Ait Nito? Are the river crossings in the Tessaout still there? It's not easy to navigate with a loaded tandem... especially if the river level is high due to this year's heavy snowmelt!
Thanks in advance for any tips you might have, and best wishes for health in this new year!
Thanks in advance for any tips you might have, and best wishes for health in this new year!
A shout-out to a cycling colleague from Savoie
Claudio specializes in the route of the Savoie lakes Here are his travels Between Bornes, Chartreuse, the Savoie foothills, and Dauphiné Five lakes: Léman, Annecy, Paladru, Aiguebelette, Bourget, not to mention a few ponds along the way Plenty of accommodation options: camping, hotels, and more...
A lovely route not far from his place Rural and quite peaceful A road cycling route created by Serge B...
N+1 reconnaissance trips on a loop of about 400 km This way, he avoids the SNCF and its troubles http://cbandiera.free.fr/vv/lacs-savoie/recos.php

The latest reconnaissance trip from April to May 2026 http://cbandiera.free.fr/recits/2026-grenoble-H/index.php

Claudio specializes in the route of the Savoie lakes Here are his travels Between Bornes, Chartreuse, the Savoie foothills, and Dauphiné Five lakes: Léman, Annecy, Paladru, Aiguebelette, Bourget, not to mention a few ponds along the way Plenty of accommodation options: camping, hotels, and more...
A lovely route not far from his place Rural and quite peaceful A road cycling route created by Serge B...
N+1 reconnaissance trips on a loop of about 400 km This way, he avoids the SNCF and its troubles http://cbandiera.free.fr/vv/lacs-savoie/recos.php


The latest reconnaissance trip from April to May 2026 http://cbandiera.free.fr/recits/2026-grenoble-H/index.php

First of all... happy New Year! Wishing you great roads in 2017!
I’ve been traveling for a few years now with a high-quality mountain bike, but it’s equipped with hydraulic disc brakes. I live (pedal) with the constant worry of a breakdown (leak, air bubble, heat causing the fluid to...). My bike mechanic tells me it’s impossible to switch them out for V-brakes.
What do you all think? Am I taking a big risk continuing (alone) with these brakes? Thanks in advance for your great tips!
Hi everyone,
First post here to share a quick recap of our west-to-east bike trip along Algeria’s coast in January 2025. It was just the two of us—my partner and I—with French passports and not a word of Arabic. No friends or welcoming hosts in the country.
Under those conditions, we’d strongly advise against going.
Our original plan was to follow the coast from Algiers to Tunis. We ended up cycling from Algiers to Béjaia, then took the train from Béjaia to Annaba (with a stop in Constantine), and finally biked to the border. We were tailed by police the whole way—whether on our bikes, on the train, or even on foot while exploring towns. On top of that, we couldn’t wild camp and were limited to the few state-approved hotels that accept foreigners. Under those circumstances, connecting with locals was especially tough.
With such an omnipresent and intrusive police presence, we’d definitely recommend against this destination for bike touring. A really sad situation that completely cuts you off from the local population...
We’d been warned, we went to check it out, and we weren’t disappointed!
You’ve been warned.
First post here to share a quick recap of our west-to-east bike trip along Algeria’s coast in January 2025. It was just the two of us—my partner and I—with French passports and not a word of Arabic. No friends or welcoming hosts in the country.
Under those conditions, we’d strongly advise against going.
Our original plan was to follow the coast from Algiers to Tunis. We ended up cycling from Algiers to Béjaia, then took the train from Béjaia to Annaba (with a stop in Constantine), and finally biked to the border. We were tailed by police the whole way—whether on our bikes, on the train, or even on foot while exploring towns. On top of that, we couldn’t wild camp and were limited to the few state-approved hotels that accept foreigners. Under those circumstances, connecting with locals was especially tough.
With such an omnipresent and intrusive police presence, we’d definitely recommend against this destination for bike touring. A really sad situation that completely cuts you off from the local population...
We’d been warned, we went to check it out, and we weren’t disappointed!
You’ve been warned.
Hi there,
I’m planning the route to cycle from Lille to Nordkapp with my partner.
Duration: 3 months, from May 1st to July 31st, 2026.
In the attached details below, I need to add some "non-riding" days (rest days, basically).
So I’m looking to "shorten" the trip by taking ferries or trains for some stretches. Which areas could I skip?
Thanks in advance for your great tips.
Have a good evening.
https://www.komoot.com/fr-fr/collection/4023980/-lille-cap-nord-1er-mai-au-31-juillet-2026?ref=collection
Hi there,
I’m planning to bike back from Poland this summer. Does anyone know a way to ship it there without having to take it apart? Otherwise, it’s a real hassle to fine-tune all the settings before departure! Thanks in advance.
I’m planning to bike back from Poland this summer. Does anyone know a way to ship it there without having to take it apart? Otherwise, it’s a real hassle to fine-tune all the settings before departure! Thanks in advance.
Hi, has anyone recently bought Primus or Butagaz gas, possibly puncture-style, in Dubrovnik or the surrounding area? Same question for Albania... thanks. aichatou
Hi there,
Coming from Laos (*), I’m planning to enter Thailand by bike via the Fourth Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge.
Before this bridge was built, I’d already cycled the road from Louang Namtha to Houei Sai and crossed the river by boat to reach Thailand.
At the time, the condition of that road was impeccable, and most importantly, traffic was light.
So I’m wondering if anyone who’s taken it recently can tell me whether traffic has increased since the bridge opened.
Thanks in advance!
(*) I’m currently cycling in China (Yunnan)
Coming from Laos (*), I’m planning to enter Thailand by bike via the Fourth Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge.
Before this bridge was built, I’d already cycled the road from Louang Namtha to Houei Sai and crossed the river by boat to reach Thailand.
At the time, the condition of that road was impeccable, and most importantly, traffic was light.
So I’m wondering if anyone who’s taken it recently can tell me whether traffic has increased since the bridge opened.
Thanks in advance!
(*) I’m currently cycling in China (Yunnan)
Hi there,
Just a few words about the loop I did by bike in Yunnan.
Entry and exit
I entered China through the Sino-Vietnamese border crossing at Lào Cai / Hekou under the 30-day visa exemption currently available to French nationals and others.
The process was simple and quick. A Chinese police officer even helped me complete my electronic pre-registration at a computer kiosk. I wasn’t aware this formality was required—it’s similar to Thailand’s TM6.
No issues with the bike.
I left the country via the Sino-Laotian border crossing at Mohan / Boten.
The atmosphere was a bit chaotic there, but again, no problems with the bike.
The timing
I visited Yunnan in February 2026.
Weather-wise, at higher altitudes (between 1,500 and 2,000 meters), it was around ten degrees at night and in the mornings, and around twenty degrees at the hottest part of the day.
I had two days of rain, so I took the bus to keep moving. Otherwise, clear blue skies.
Culturally, Chinese New Year fell on February 17th (and the 15 days following), right in the middle of my trip. Because of this, my take on the traffic might be off.
Accommodation and food I always found a hotel to stay in for prices ranging from 8 to 15 €. Except in Kunming (the capital), where many hotels were fully booked (Chinese New Year). I ended up at a 100 € hotel with great value for money.
A bowl of noodles costs about 1.5 € on average.
Onboard electronics Since my smartphone doesn’t support eSIMs, I subscribed to a China plan with my carrier. Otherwise, for much cheaper, Alipay offers eSIMs for foreigners that allow access to services usually blocked for Chinese users (WhatsApp, Facebook, etc.).
An internet connection is essential for paying with Alipay or WeChat, as this payment method is widespread.
I only managed to use Alipay.
Either way, always carry cash because sometimes there’s no signal, or the merchant only accepts WeChat.
Also, it’s best to bring a power adapter when you arrive rather than struggling to find one.
Traffic and roads The Chinese aren’t reckless drivers. They follow traffic rules and watch out for cyclists. This is slightly less true in Xishuangbanna (the region bordering Myanmar and Laos).
In urban areas, there are almost always wide bike lanes, separated from other roads, where bikes, electric mini-scooters, and scooters share the space pretty harmoniously.
The roads are in great condition, and traffic is generally manageable—even light—except for one stretch (Eshan -> Yangwu).
Most traffic is absorbed by expressways, China’s equivalent of highways: toll roads that are off-limits to slow vehicles.
You’re never far from these expressways; sometimes you even ride alongside them, which can be noisy at times.
The climbs are usually reasonable, around 5% to 6%. From what I remember, the steepest section was between Menglun and Mengla, with gradients of 8% to 10%, sometimes more.
Riding at these altitudes—though modest—took a bit of getting used to.
The route I didn’t plan anything in advance. My only goal was to reach Kunming. I don’t know why, but just hearing the name of that city, like Yunnan, always felt dreamy to me.
Here’s the breakdown: Hekou -> Man Hao (94 km); Man Hao -> Yuanyang (64 km); Yuanyang -> Jianshui (bus); Jianshui -> Tong Hai (78 km); Tong Hai -> Chenjiang (85 km); Chenjiang -> Kunming (60 km); Kunming -> Kunyang (60 km); Kunyang -> Eshan (67 km); Eshan -> Yangwu (58 km); Yangwu -> Yuanjiang (59 km); Yuanjiang -> Pu'er (bus); Pu'er -> Dadugang (75 km); Dadugang -> Jinghong (80 km); Jinghong -> Menglun (67 km); Menglun -> Mengyuancun (51 km); Mengyuancun -> Mengla (43 km); Mengla -> Boten (67 km).
Otherwise, I’m currently in Thailand and just hoping my return flight with Qatar won’t get canceled.
Oh well... 😉
Just a few words about the loop I did by bike in Yunnan.
Entry and exit
I entered China through the Sino-Vietnamese border crossing at Lào Cai / Hekou under the 30-day visa exemption currently available to French nationals and others.
The process was simple and quick. A Chinese police officer even helped me complete my electronic pre-registration at a computer kiosk. I wasn’t aware this formality was required—it’s similar to Thailand’s TM6.
No issues with the bike.
I left the country via the Sino-Laotian border crossing at Mohan / Boten.
The atmosphere was a bit chaotic there, but again, no problems with the bike.
The timing
I visited Yunnan in February 2026.
Weather-wise, at higher altitudes (between 1,500 and 2,000 meters), it was around ten degrees at night and in the mornings, and around twenty degrees at the hottest part of the day.
I had two days of rain, so I took the bus to keep moving. Otherwise, clear blue skies.
Culturally, Chinese New Year fell on February 17th (and the 15 days following), right in the middle of my trip. Because of this, my take on the traffic might be off.
Accommodation and food I always found a hotel to stay in for prices ranging from 8 to 15 €. Except in Kunming (the capital), where many hotels were fully booked (Chinese New Year). I ended up at a 100 € hotel with great value for money.
A bowl of noodles costs about 1.5 € on average.
Onboard electronics Since my smartphone doesn’t support eSIMs, I subscribed to a China plan with my carrier. Otherwise, for much cheaper, Alipay offers eSIMs for foreigners that allow access to services usually blocked for Chinese users (WhatsApp, Facebook, etc.).
An internet connection is essential for paying with Alipay or WeChat, as this payment method is widespread.
I only managed to use Alipay.
Either way, always carry cash because sometimes there’s no signal, or the merchant only accepts WeChat.
Also, it’s best to bring a power adapter when you arrive rather than struggling to find one.
Traffic and roads The Chinese aren’t reckless drivers. They follow traffic rules and watch out for cyclists. This is slightly less true in Xishuangbanna (the region bordering Myanmar and Laos).
In urban areas, there are almost always wide bike lanes, separated from other roads, where bikes, electric mini-scooters, and scooters share the space pretty harmoniously.
The roads are in great condition, and traffic is generally manageable—even light—except for one stretch (Eshan -> Yangwu).
Most traffic is absorbed by expressways, China’s equivalent of highways: toll roads that are off-limits to slow vehicles.
You’re never far from these expressways; sometimes you even ride alongside them, which can be noisy at times.
The climbs are usually reasonable, around 5% to 6%. From what I remember, the steepest section was between Menglun and Mengla, with gradients of 8% to 10%, sometimes more.
Riding at these altitudes—though modest—took a bit of getting used to.
The route I didn’t plan anything in advance. My only goal was to reach Kunming. I don’t know why, but just hearing the name of that city, like Yunnan, always felt dreamy to me.
Here’s the breakdown: Hekou -> Man Hao (94 km); Man Hao -> Yuanyang (64 km); Yuanyang -> Jianshui (bus); Jianshui -> Tong Hai (78 km); Tong Hai -> Chenjiang (85 km); Chenjiang -> Kunming (60 km); Kunming -> Kunyang (60 km); Kunyang -> Eshan (67 km); Eshan -> Yangwu (58 km); Yangwu -> Yuanjiang (59 km); Yuanjiang -> Pu'er (bus); Pu'er -> Dadugang (75 km); Dadugang -> Jinghong (80 km); Jinghong -> Menglun (67 km); Menglun -> Mengyuancun (51 km); Mengyuancun -> Mengla (43 km); Mengla -> Boten (67 km).
Otherwise, I’m currently in Thailand and just hoping my return flight with Qatar won’t get canceled.
Oh well... 😉