You're right, when you go to Sukhothai, it's for the temples of the ancient capital. I've been to Thailand often in January or February to show my friends around the country. But at that time of year, you don't see many active rice fields. I had noticed there were some around Sukhothai. When I went back two years later, I saw that a French guy was organizing countryside discovery tours by bike. Personally, biking between rice fields—I tried that in Vietnam—it's not for me. As soon as I see water, I panic! I asked him if he could organize the tour by tuk-tuk instead, which he did, but not exactly on the same paths. My husband and I did it by tuk-tuk with an adorable cycling champion who guided the tuk-tuk driver and acted as our English-speaking guide, while my friends did the tour by bike. It was fun, not too expensive, and no taxi would have taken us on that route. Plus, when it's really hot, you're better off in a tuk-tuk than on a bike.
In Sukhothai, we stayed at a charming guesthouse that arranged an appointment for me with an extraordinary masseuse—kind of like a local grandmother, no zen music, no incense, or lotus photos. In the evening, there was a nice food court and night market too.
As for the countryside, I've been several times to the east, in Nang Rong, where I sponsored children. They speak Khmer there, and it's near the Khmer temple of Phanom Rung. In winter, the rice fields are dry, adults head to the city to find work, and the kids stay with grandparents or aunts. I took lots of photos in villages that still work with silk and were trying to make a living from their weaving.
I really liked Pattalung—it's off the beaten path, but it's more of a lakeside town than countryside, so it doesn't quite fit your theme.
