Soyez bienvenus au Kazakhstan du Nord! J'habite a Petropavlovsk maintenant. Je serai heureux de partager mon expérience avec chacun qui a voyagé au Kazahstan. Je suis l'allemand mais je vis au Kazakhstan maintenant. Il est très facile de trouver du travaille bien payé ici si vous êtes un étranger.
Hello everyone!
I’m back from two weeks in southern Kazakhstan. I went with a friend, and we organized everything ourselves. We came back enchanted by this trip: stunning landscapes, lots of animals seen in the parks, and above all, top-notch hospitality and welcome... All of this makes me really want to go back and explore the other countries in the region. In the meantime, I’m sharing the story of these two weeks of travel... Don’t hesitate if you have any questions. And if you want more practical info and/or see more photos, you can check out my blog: https://smilingaroundtheworld.com/category/kazakhstan/
Day 1: First Kazakh steps in Shymkent
So here we are in Kazakhstan for two weeks. We had an excellent flight with Air Astana, which instantly made it into my top 3 best airlines! From the airport, the service was top-notch, with very friendly staff who went out of their way to ensure we both got vegetarian meals (my order hadn’t been taken into account when booking the tickets online). The flight to Nur-Sultan (the new name for the capital, formerly Astana, renamed last month in honor of the resigning president) was three-quarters empty, and we each got to stretch out over three seats. We were given an incredible travel kit, including a reversible sleep mask with phosphorescent writing: “Do not disturb” or “Wake me for meals.” Awesome! As for the lighting in the plane, I think the interior cycled through every color to simulate evening, early night, pitch-black night, and then dawn. It was even a bit surreal—those lights and everyone’s glowing masks ^^ The flight was a bit early and too short for us to sleep well, but it was still pleasant :-)
Upon arriving in Nur-Sultan, the atmosphere was a bit colder. There was staff everywhere, and we were under heavy surveillance. A camera even filmed us as we entered the terminal. We got our passports stamped and settled in to wait for our second flight. We eventually realized we were waiting in the wrong place... We were still in the international terminal, while our next flight was domestic. We finally found the right spot—saved! We started our trip in Shymkent, in the south of the country. We dropped our bags at the City Hostel, a super modern youth hostel offering double rooms. The decor is industrial-style, with very high ceilings—we loved it. When we arrived, it was too early for check-in, so we just left our luggage and went for a walk around the neighborhood. There was quite a bit of traffic, and the avenues were very wide. Despite that, there was also a lot of greenery and green spaces, which lightened things up a bit.
We had lunch (pizza + smoothie) on the top floor of a shopping mall, then headed to the pre-Russian quarter, a much quieter area with its little streets and individual houses.
Back at the hostel, after checking in, we treated ourselves to a two-hour nap—it felt great! In the late afternoon, we set out to find the Salman Bazaar. It wasn’t easy to organize—we realized Shymkent isn’t a very touristy destination—but we eventually managed with the help of the hostel receptionist, who called us a taxi. This bazaar is huge and has everything you could need for daily life: clothes, food, household products, toys... We did some shopping for dinner, then took another taxi to Independence Park, inaugurated in 2011 for the 20th anniversary of Kazakhstan’s independence. We really liked this park—it’s very wooded, and the late afternoon light was, as always, beautiful and pleasant... In the center, a large monument resembles the center of a yurt.
We then walked back to the hostel via Independence Square and several parks. We wanted to grab a drink along the way but didn’t find anything inspiring—oh well. We had dinner at the hostel and went straight to bed. Tomorrow, we’re getting up early... We’re heading out for two days to explore Aksou-Jabagly National Park. This park is famous for its landscapes at this time of year—it should be in full bloom, especially with tulips. We’ll see!
Days 2 & 3: Canyon, tulips, and wildlife in Aksou-Jabagly Park
Located two hours from Shymkent, Aksou-Jabagly Park is reputed to be one of the most beautiful in the region. We took a taxi from Shymkent, and upon arrival, we were warmly welcomed by Ruslan and his mother. They live at the entrance to the reserve, at the foot of the mountains, in a house surrounded by poplars. The setting is exceptional, and we immediately fell in love with the place. For our first day, we set off to explore the Aksou Canyon. Ruslan arranged a 4x4 with a driver and a ranger. The ranger speaks a few words of English, and with Coralie’s few words of Russian, we should manage! After a “viewpoint” stop, the road turns into a dirt track. It’s rained a lot lately, and the track is sometimes very muddy—at one point, we even had to cross a river. Four-wheel drive was definitely needed! The ranger pointed out some marmots by the side of the path—they were adorable.
We finally arrived at “Inspector’s House No. 1,” which overlooks the canyon. The view is magnificent, with high cliffs, wildflowers, conifers, and the Aksou River winding far below. While the driver chatted with the inspector, we descended to the bottom of the canyon with the ranger. The tulips I’d been hoping for were there—I was so happy! There were red, yellow, and even bicolor ones...
At the bottom of the canyon, we took a little break by the river. “Aksou” means “white waters” in Kazakh—the water does indeed have a very special color, a blue that’s both very light and very intense, like some South American lagoons. It bubbles around the rocks. The climb back up was easier than we feared. Once at the top, we continued along the canyon. The perspective changed as we progressed, and we never got tired of the view... Eagles circled above us.
After about 2 km, the driver picked us up, and we continued to a small kiosk at the foot of the mountains, where we had a picnic. Ruslan’s mother had prepared vegetarian “lunch boxes”—it was delicious and felt good to eat. However, it had gotten noticeably colder, so we put our jackets and scarves back on! After the meal, the driver walked off with a bucket—we figured he was going mushroom picking with Inspector No. 2, who had a house nearby.
We enjoyed the spot a bit longer while the driver gathered mushrooms, and then we headed back toward Ruslan’s place. Or so we thought... The return trip turned out to be quite long—the park wasn’t as deserted as it seemed, and the driver stopped every five minutes to chat with people we passed. At one point, we ran into Inspector No. 2 on horseback—it looked like there was a problem with a car further ahead... The driver and ranger bolted out of the car, headed toward the other vehicle, and we heard raised voices... When they came back, we tried to figure out what had happened, but no luck. We stopped again at Inspector No. 1’s house (are you following?), and they made us get out, telling us Inspector No. 2 needed the car for a few minutes... They left us stranded with Inspector No. 1, who went home, leaving us in the garden :-D We kept busy with the puppies, and I even took a little nap in the sun... Three-quarters of an hour later, we finally left—we didn’t fully understand what happened and never found out!
We got back (almost) without stopping to Ruslan’s house. Our room was ready, and we settled in quickly before dinner. It was already 6:30 PM, even though we were supposed to be back by 4 PM. Mushroom picking really slows things down ^^ Ruslan’s mother had prepared a delicious meal: vegetable soup, raw vegetable salad, and a mushroom, carrot, and potato stew. We loved it!
We spent the rest of the evening planning the rest of our trip while sipping tea. At one point, Ruslan and his mother signaled that there were wild boars right across from us—we could see them clearly! There were three adults and three piglets. We also took a little walk in the garden, watched the sunset, I did some blogging, and Coralie read... A lovely evening, and an equally lovely ten-hour night! The next morning, after a good breakfast, we set off on foot into the park. The trail starts right next to Ruslan’s house—so convenient! Today, we were with another ranger, two Germans (brother and sister), and their English-speaking guide (who didn’t guide much). We walked on a dirt road—there were even more tulips than yesterday, and the snow-capped mountains in the distance were stunning. After 5 km, we reached a small cabin, then continued another kilometer to Kishy Kaindy, a viewpoint overlooking the Jabagly River waterfalls (Jabagly means “year-old foal”). It was spectacular! We stayed a good while admiring this natural wonder. Like yesterday, the ranger didn’t rush us at all—it was really nice. We also saw eagles and an ibex perched on a ridge.
We had a picnic at the cabin before heading back the same way we came. This time, the snow-capped peaks were facing us—so beautiful! We picked up our bags and said goodbye to Ruslan’s mother. She was really happy today because her granddaughter was there. She told us she was a “babushka”—I understood that! Ruslan then drove us to Turar Ryskulov, where we took a shared taxi back to Shymkent.
In Shymkent, we struggled a bit with our Airbnb. We waited half an hour for the person who was supposed to let us in, then discovered the Wi-Fi wasn’t working—but we had a lot of bookings to make that evening. The lady finally lent us a Kazakh SIM card with data, which Coralie put in her phone in “hotspot” mode so I could get some internet too. All of that took nearly two hours. Phew! We then rushed to do some shopping at the supermarket. On the way back, some lights caught my eye—it was a pedestrian street all decorated with a funfair next to it. It was very lively, and we spent a good while strolling and people-watching! The rest of our evening was studious, between preparing dinner and booking our next stops.
Day 4: Turkestan, Yasawi Mausoleum, and Sauran ruins
This morning, after one last stroll in Shymkent, we headed to Turkestan. When we arrived at the bus station, we were told the next bus was in nearly three hours, but there were minibuses leaving when full. The system was well-oiled, and in just fifteen minutes, our minibus was ready to go. We each had a seat (and one for our luggage since there’s no trunk!), and the minibus was quite new—nothing like Madagascar ;-)
The trip went well despite a few driving scares—the driver was going a bit fast for my liking! Along the road, the fields were full of poppies—so pretty. When we arrived, we headed straight to the Edem hotel, where we wouldn’t be staying (we had a train to Almaty at midnight) but where we wanted to leave our luggage for the day. They agreed easily—great! Once we’d dropped off our bags and suitcases, we started our visits.
We began with the architectural gem and largest pilgrimage site in Kazakhstan: the mausoleum of Khodja Ahmad Yasawi, a great Sufi sage. Yasawi’s original tomb was already a pilgrimage site when Tamerlane ordered the construction of a larger mausoleum in 1390. It’s decorated with white and blue tiles and has a turquoise dome (currently under renovation). The main facade, unfinished at Tamerlane’s death, was left in earth with visible scaffolding. Impressive! The site is UNESCO-listed. Inside, the main hall displays a large cauldron, and other small rooms showcase plates, ancient coins, belts... Yasawi’s tomb is visible via two adjacent corridors.
We then strolled through the park, which includes many other mausoleums and tombs. We visited the old baths, the Friday Mosque, and then the history museum. The underground mosque, where Yasawi’s cell is located (where he retreated at the end of his life), was unfortunately closed for renovations.
We then went back to the Edem hotel to have them call us a taxi, and we set off to visit the ancient fortress of Sauran. This Silk Road city, once prosperous, is now reduced to ruins, with thousands of poppies blooming between them. High walls once surrounded a bustling and pleasant city. Many foundations remain visible. The place is vast, quiet, almost deserted, and imbued with a certain melancholy... The deep red poppies swayed in the wind, between the remnants of this city, reminding us how fleeting things are.
Back in Turkestan, we had dinner at the Edem hotel’s restaurant (we had to thank them somehow ;-)) and then rushed to the station to catch our train... 18 hours of travel awaited us to Almaty!
Day 5: From Turkestan to Almaty, 18 hours by train across the Kazakh steppe
We traveled from Turkestan to Almaty by train. We booked our tickets the day before departure, and only six seats were left: three in second class, not together at all, and three in first class, also not together but in the same carriage. We opted for first class! It was more expensive, but for such a long trip, a little comfort wouldn’t hurt... We wondered if we’d manage to switch cabins to be together, but it resolved itself: when we boarded, the conductor/carriage chief immediately noticed we weren’t together. He literally kicked a young man out of his berth so we could travel in the same cabin. We felt bad for the young man, even though he seemed to take it well... we thanked him with dried fruit (and I can confirm he took it well—the next day, he came to chat with us). In any case, we were really happy to have our own little cabin for this long journey, especially since we were the only foreigners and the only women in the carriage.
Eighteen hours by train might seem long, but these long trips while traveling aren’t wasted time—they’re the breathing space of the journey. They’re the essential moments for digesting what we’ve already experienced and preparing for future discoveries. They’re also privileged moments for reflection. Traveling slowly, to the rhythm of the train, means falling asleep in Turkestan’s outskirts, lulled by the train’s rocking and creaking, and waking up in the steppe. It’s feeling the train slow down and stop, stepping onto the platform for a moment, and watching the women sell food to passengers. It’s taking the time to write, read, think. It’s chatting with our neighbors and, despite the language barrier, managing to communicate a little. It’s picnicking at the little table in our cabin, with the landscape rolling by outside, and listening to music. It’s feeling privileged, imagining ourselves on the Orient Express or the Trans-Siberian. Reminding ourselves that one day, one day for real, we’ll take that Trans-Siberian. And smiling, thinking that in the meantime, in a few months, there’ll be the Trans-Canadian...
Days 6 & 7: Almaty, the “little apple”
The former capital of Kazakhstan, Almaty is known as the most Western and lively city in the country. At first, we had a bit of trouble identifying the city center—it’s more spread out and less dense than what we’re used to in Europe—but once we got our bearings, we really enjoyed strolling along the wide avenues lined with cafés and in the few pedestrian streets. The city’s emblem is the apple, which you’ll find in various forms around the city, from benches to statues to fountains. The original apple, from which all the apples we know today descend, is said to come from the mountains of Kazakhstan.
For nature, Almaty is a pretty green city. It has large parks, like Panfilov Park, which houses the Zenkov Cathedral. Some streets are also very tree-lined, so much so that they almost look like gardens. Often, high mountains peek out from behind the streets...
For shopping, traditional boutiques sit alongside big international brands. We really liked the Green Bazaar, a large market that sells everything. The food section was great, with stalls of pickled vegetables, dried fruits, and beautifully stacked fresh fruits... A feast for the eyes and lots of temptations for me!
For culture, Almaty has several museums. We visited two: the Fine Arts Museum and the National Museum. Both are housed in very Soviet-looking buildings on the outside, but the Fine Arts Museum turned out to be quite modern inside, with a pleasant museography. The National Museum, on the other hand, has stayed true to its roots ^^ Just walking through it was an experience in itself. And we did quite a bit of shopping there... The hall is a giant shop with lots of handicrafts—we treated ourselves.
The Arasan Baths are a must in Almaty. They’re said to be among the most beautiful baths in Central Asia... Architecturally, I didn’t find them amazing (nothing like Budapest’s, for example), but wow, did it feel good to relax there after a day of sightseeing! I happily moved between the sauna, hammam, and Russian sauna, with a preference for the latter—less dry than a traditional sauna and less humid than the hammam. You can buy bundles of leaves to slap yourself (or get slapped) with to boost circulation. The prices are very affordable too... On a weekday evening, we paid 1,800 tenge, or 4.5 euros, for an hour. Note that they add 20 minutes for changing, so you really get a full hour in the baths.
For restaurants, we didn’t try many because we preferred to limit our food budget by cooking ourselves. However, we did try and highly recommend Daredzhani, a great Georgian restaurant where we feasted. We didn’t know Georgian cuisine before, but we really liked it—vegetables cooked in various ways, cheese-filled breads, potato and/or egg-filled breads, and very thin fruit pastes made from grapes. We actually ate there twice because it was so good! We also loved Coffee Delia, where you can enjoy delicious pastries in a very cozy setting.
Besides being a pleasant place to live, Almaty is also a great base for exploring the surrounding area, and we were happy to stay eight days to discover more of the region!
Days 7, 8 & 9: Getting green around Almaty: Kok Tobe, Shymbulak, Medeo, and Big Almaty Lake
During our stay in Almaty, we used a rather unusual means of transport several times: the cable car! Here, it’s called a "gondola," and it allowed us to gain some altitude and breathe in the fresh mountain air surrounding Almaty ;-)
First cable car ride: Kok Tobe. The cable car starts in the city center and takes you to the top of a hill overlooking Almaty. At the top, it’s fairground vibes with an upside-down house, a Ferris wheel, rides, and the inevitable eagle trainer... There’s even a little corner dedicated to the Beatles, complete with music and a statue!
Second ride: Shymbulak. This time, you take a bus to Medeo, then three cable cars to the top of the mountain, at 3,200 meters altitude. Shymbulak is the largest ski resort in Central Asia. We went there to hike, but there was still snow and skiers, so we settled for admiring the view... With the blue sky and sun we had, it was gorgeous! We then treated ourselves to tea on the terrace—chalet vibes... At Paul’s, we weren’t completely out of place ;-)
Before taking the bus back, we stopped by Medeo, where there’s a large ice rink. With 10,000 m², it can host a thousand skaters in winter! This season, it’s closed; part of it is used as a go-kart track, and the other as a landing strip for paragliders.
Located an hour’s drive from the city center, Big Almaty Lake reveals itself at the last moment, around a bend, nestled in a setting of mountains and greenery. With the recent cold snap, it’s frozen, and the edges are snowy—a beautiful winter atmosphere! The ice was starting to melt, though—we could hear the water moving underneath, and when Coralie tried to walk on the ice, it collapsed under her feet. Unfortunately, it’s impossible to walk around it—a ranger keeps an eye out and blocks the adventurous (including us ;-)).
Days 10 & 11: Excursions around Almaty: Charyn Canyon, Issyk, and Turgen
Almaty’s tourism office is very active and organizes outings on weekends and holidays. We went to Charyn Canyon and then to Issyk and Turgen. A great way to discover the Almaty area at a modest cost (the outing costs about 6,000 tenge, or 15 euros per person).
Formed over millennia by erosion and wind, Charyn Canyon is reminiscent of the Colorado and the Grand Canyon. The most touristy part we visited is called the Valley of Castles, referring to the rock formations that resemble towers. We first walked along the ridge, where there are many viewpoints, then descended into the canyon. A three-kilometer walk leads to the banks of the Charyn River. The place seems to be a favorite relaxation spot for Kazakh families, who picnic, play ball, sunbathe... There’s also a hotel, bungalows, yurts, and a restaurant. Issyk is famous for its burial mounds and its Golden Man—maybe even a Golden Woman—found there. A small museum displays some artifacts. A little further on is Issyk Lake, once dried up but now reappearing... Whether naturally or not isn’t very clear!
As for Turgen, it’s a natural park known for its gorges and waterfalls. We didn’t have time to explore it in detail, but the bus drove through some beautiful landscapes, and we still walked to Bear Waterfall. It’s not incredible, but it’s still a nice little hike.
Besides the practical side of these organized excursions from Almaty, we appreciated being able to do an activity that Kazakhs do on weekends. During the Issyk/Turgen excursion, we really hit it off with Karina, a young student dragged there on vacation by her mother. She’s currently studying computer science at the best university in Astana and hopes to go to Europe eventually... A brilliant young woman, and a chance for us to chat in English ;-)
Days 12 & 13: The spectacular landscapes of Altyn-Emel Park
The last stop on our Kazakhstan trip was Altyn-Emel Park. This park is quite hard to access, so we opted for a car with a driver for two days—pure luxury!
Our driver’s name is Andrei. We met him at 7 AM outside our apartment on Wednesday morning. He doesn’t speak English, but a young man from the agency we booked through was also there, and we went over the itinerary together before leaving with Andrei.
Our first stop was Tamgaly Tas, two hours from Almaty. It’s a site where you can see 16th-century petroglyphs depicting Buddha. The place is also known for climbing—there were lots of young people harnessed up and/or climbing. It’s right in the middle of the Kazakh countryside, and we had a bit of trouble finding it!
Even with the language barrier, Andrei turned out to be very friendly. He suggested photo stops from time to time, didn’t rush us, and pointed out animals he saw... We even backed up on the road to see and help a tortoise cross!
It took another two and a half hours to reach Bashi, the “gateway” village to Altyn-Emel Park. After a quick stop at the rangers’, we arrived at the hotel. Our guidebook mentioned modest guesthouses, but things are changing... The hotel is large, brand new, and still being expanded. It reminded me of some Chinese hotels in Laos.
We had a quick lunch with Andrei—he explained that he’s a truck driver normally, delivering clothes and fabrics between Kazakhstan, Afghanistan, and Russia. He also showed us photos of his wife and son and told us he’s recently become a grandfather! We then headed to the park, grabbing a ranger on the way. Like in Aksou-Jabagly, he was dressed in full military gear. We first headed toward the Katutau Mountains. The rocks are reddish, sculpted by wind and erosion—the place reminded us a bit of Charyn Canyon. We had some “free time” to explore—we didn’t need to be told twice... Meanwhile, Andrei and the ranger chatted nonstop—it looked like they’d hit it off!
We got back in the car and continued along the track to the Aktau Mountains. Change of scenery! The mountains weren’t red anymore but white... Or so they appeared from afar. When we got closer, we realized they were actually multicolored, striped with yellow, pink, and ochre veins... It was magnificent, even more so with the late afternoon light. We had time to explore on our own again, and we walked with delight in this almost dreamlike landscape. We thought we’d made the right choice coming here ;-) We made one last stop before heading back to see a 700-year-old willow. It’s in an oasis where other tourists were camping—very tempting... I got the coordinates of their guide for next time ;-) The way back was in beautiful light, between sunset and a distant storm. Nature even treated us to a gorgeous sunset!
It was past 8 PM when we got back to the hotel, but our dinner was still waiting for us. We ate with Andrei, chatted a bit with a Polish woman who spoke both Russian and French (we put her to work chatting with Andrei ;-)), and then had a quiet evening with Wi-Fi, a shower, and reading in our room.
The next day, after breakfast, we met up with the same ranger and headed toward the singing dunes. These dunes are supposed to make a sound when you slide down their slopes. I was more than skeptical, but okay! When we arrived, we discovered a beautiful landscape—the main dune is gigantic, and when we reached the top, the view was extraordinary: it was the first time I’d seen a dune in the desert, snow-capped mountains, and a river all in one glance! A group of Chinese tourists was ahead of us on the dune, but they turned back quickly, and we were alone. After studying the terrain, I chose a slope that seemed good, and I started sliding down on my bottom... Quickly, I heard and felt a strong vibration, which turned into a hum. The dune really sings! It’s completely crazy... We did several tests—the most effective was sliding down side by side. But it works as long as there aren’t too many tourists doing it and the dune has time to rebuild between slides... There are about thirty singing dunes in the world. This phenomenon, already described by Marco Polo, comes from the synchronous movement of sand grains, which must be very round and covered with a varnish called “desert glaze”...
Covered in sand but delighted, we headed back to Bashi. The ranger stopped at a small spring so we could wash up, but it was almost dry. Along the way, we also saw the “Oshaktas,” a place where Genghis Khan’s expedition is said to have camped in 1219 during his conquest of Central Asia. The stones were apparently used to support the cauldron where food was prepared. A little further on, the ranger made us stop: there were antelopes!!! We saw one up close and a herd further away.
When we got back to the hotel, I took a quick shower to get rid of the sand—I felt like I had it everywhere! We had a quick lunch and then hit the road back to Almaty. Andrei drove very well, had a nice playlist, and I let myself be lulled while watching the landscape roll by outside...
For our last night in Kazakhstan, we booked a yurt in the hills above Almaty, not far from Medeo. For one night, we pretended to be nomads... The bed was a bit hard, and the air was a bit chilly, but we loved it! And the welcome was kind, the meal very good—only downside: the horse milk and camel milk, still warm... I almost threw up. Well, it was an experience, and all of this beautifully concluded our Kazakh stay!
I’m back from two weeks in southern Kazakhstan. I went with a friend, and we organized everything ourselves. We came back enchanted by this trip: stunning landscapes, lots of animals seen in the parks, and above all, top-notch hospitality and welcome... All of this makes me really want to go back and explore the other countries in the region. In the meantime, I’m sharing the story of these two weeks of travel... Don’t hesitate if you have any questions. And if you want more practical info and/or see more photos, you can check out my blog: https://smilingaroundtheworld.com/category/kazakhstan/
Day 1: First Kazakh steps in Shymkent
So here we are in Kazakhstan for two weeks. We had an excellent flight with Air Astana, which instantly made it into my top 3 best airlines! From the airport, the service was top-notch, with very friendly staff who went out of their way to ensure we both got vegetarian meals (my order hadn’t been taken into account when booking the tickets online). The flight to Nur-Sultan (the new name for the capital, formerly Astana, renamed last month in honor of the resigning president) was three-quarters empty, and we each got to stretch out over three seats. We were given an incredible travel kit, including a reversible sleep mask with phosphorescent writing: “Do not disturb” or “Wake me for meals.” Awesome! As for the lighting in the plane, I think the interior cycled through every color to simulate evening, early night, pitch-black night, and then dawn. It was even a bit surreal—those lights and everyone’s glowing masks ^^ The flight was a bit early and too short for us to sleep well, but it was still pleasant :-)
Upon arriving in Nur-Sultan, the atmosphere was a bit colder. There was staff everywhere, and we were under heavy surveillance. A camera even filmed us as we entered the terminal. We got our passports stamped and settled in to wait for our second flight. We eventually realized we were waiting in the wrong place... We were still in the international terminal, while our next flight was domestic. We finally found the right spot—saved! We started our trip in Shymkent, in the south of the country. We dropped our bags at the City Hostel, a super modern youth hostel offering double rooms. The decor is industrial-style, with very high ceilings—we loved it. When we arrived, it was too early for check-in, so we just left our luggage and went for a walk around the neighborhood. There was quite a bit of traffic, and the avenues were very wide. Despite that, there was also a lot of greenery and green spaces, which lightened things up a bit.
We had lunch (pizza + smoothie) on the top floor of a shopping mall, then headed to the pre-Russian quarter, a much quieter area with its little streets and individual houses.
Back at the hostel, after checking in, we treated ourselves to a two-hour nap—it felt great! In the late afternoon, we set out to find the Salman Bazaar. It wasn’t easy to organize—we realized Shymkent isn’t a very touristy destination—but we eventually managed with the help of the hostel receptionist, who called us a taxi. This bazaar is huge and has everything you could need for daily life: clothes, food, household products, toys... We did some shopping for dinner, then took another taxi to Independence Park, inaugurated in 2011 for the 20th anniversary of Kazakhstan’s independence. We really liked this park—it’s very wooded, and the late afternoon light was, as always, beautiful and pleasant... In the center, a large monument resembles the center of a yurt.
We then walked back to the hostel via Independence Square and several parks. We wanted to grab a drink along the way but didn’t find anything inspiring—oh well. We had dinner at the hostel and went straight to bed. Tomorrow, we’re getting up early... We’re heading out for two days to explore Aksou-Jabagly National Park. This park is famous for its landscapes at this time of year—it should be in full bloom, especially with tulips. We’ll see!
Days 2 & 3: Canyon, tulips, and wildlife in Aksou-Jabagly Park
Located two hours from Shymkent, Aksou-Jabagly Park is reputed to be one of the most beautiful in the region. We took a taxi from Shymkent, and upon arrival, we were warmly welcomed by Ruslan and his mother. They live at the entrance to the reserve, at the foot of the mountains, in a house surrounded by poplars. The setting is exceptional, and we immediately fell in love with the place. For our first day, we set off to explore the Aksou Canyon. Ruslan arranged a 4x4 with a driver and a ranger. The ranger speaks a few words of English, and with Coralie’s few words of Russian, we should manage! After a “viewpoint” stop, the road turns into a dirt track. It’s rained a lot lately, and the track is sometimes very muddy—at one point, we even had to cross a river. Four-wheel drive was definitely needed! The ranger pointed out some marmots by the side of the path—they were adorable.
We finally arrived at “Inspector’s House No. 1,” which overlooks the canyon. The view is magnificent, with high cliffs, wildflowers, conifers, and the Aksou River winding far below. While the driver chatted with the inspector, we descended to the bottom of the canyon with the ranger. The tulips I’d been hoping for were there—I was so happy! There were red, yellow, and even bicolor ones...
At the bottom of the canyon, we took a little break by the river. “Aksou” means “white waters” in Kazakh—the water does indeed have a very special color, a blue that’s both very light and very intense, like some South American lagoons. It bubbles around the rocks. The climb back up was easier than we feared. Once at the top, we continued along the canyon. The perspective changed as we progressed, and we never got tired of the view... Eagles circled above us.
After about 2 km, the driver picked us up, and we continued to a small kiosk at the foot of the mountains, where we had a picnic. Ruslan’s mother had prepared vegetarian “lunch boxes”—it was delicious and felt good to eat. However, it had gotten noticeably colder, so we put our jackets and scarves back on! After the meal, the driver walked off with a bucket—we figured he was going mushroom picking with Inspector No. 2, who had a house nearby.
We enjoyed the spot a bit longer while the driver gathered mushrooms, and then we headed back toward Ruslan’s place. Or so we thought... The return trip turned out to be quite long—the park wasn’t as deserted as it seemed, and the driver stopped every five minutes to chat with people we passed. At one point, we ran into Inspector No. 2 on horseback—it looked like there was a problem with a car further ahead... The driver and ranger bolted out of the car, headed toward the other vehicle, and we heard raised voices... When they came back, we tried to figure out what had happened, but no luck. We stopped again at Inspector No. 1’s house (are you following?), and they made us get out, telling us Inspector No. 2 needed the car for a few minutes... They left us stranded with Inspector No. 1, who went home, leaving us in the garden :-D We kept busy with the puppies, and I even took a little nap in the sun... Three-quarters of an hour later, we finally left—we didn’t fully understand what happened and never found out!
We got back (almost) without stopping to Ruslan’s house. Our room was ready, and we settled in quickly before dinner. It was already 6:30 PM, even though we were supposed to be back by 4 PM. Mushroom picking really slows things down ^^ Ruslan’s mother had prepared a delicious meal: vegetable soup, raw vegetable salad, and a mushroom, carrot, and potato stew. We loved it!
We spent the rest of the evening planning the rest of our trip while sipping tea. At one point, Ruslan and his mother signaled that there were wild boars right across from us—we could see them clearly! There were three adults and three piglets. We also took a little walk in the garden, watched the sunset, I did some blogging, and Coralie read... A lovely evening, and an equally lovely ten-hour night! The next morning, after a good breakfast, we set off on foot into the park. The trail starts right next to Ruslan’s house—so convenient! Today, we were with another ranger, two Germans (brother and sister), and their English-speaking guide (who didn’t guide much). We walked on a dirt road—there were even more tulips than yesterday, and the snow-capped mountains in the distance were stunning. After 5 km, we reached a small cabin, then continued another kilometer to Kishy Kaindy, a viewpoint overlooking the Jabagly River waterfalls (Jabagly means “year-old foal”). It was spectacular! We stayed a good while admiring this natural wonder. Like yesterday, the ranger didn’t rush us at all—it was really nice. We also saw eagles and an ibex perched on a ridge.
We had a picnic at the cabin before heading back the same way we came. This time, the snow-capped peaks were facing us—so beautiful! We picked up our bags and said goodbye to Ruslan’s mother. She was really happy today because her granddaughter was there. She told us she was a “babushka”—I understood that! Ruslan then drove us to Turar Ryskulov, where we took a shared taxi back to Shymkent.
In Shymkent, we struggled a bit with our Airbnb. We waited half an hour for the person who was supposed to let us in, then discovered the Wi-Fi wasn’t working—but we had a lot of bookings to make that evening. The lady finally lent us a Kazakh SIM card with data, which Coralie put in her phone in “hotspot” mode so I could get some internet too. All of that took nearly two hours. Phew! We then rushed to do some shopping at the supermarket. On the way back, some lights caught my eye—it was a pedestrian street all decorated with a funfair next to it. It was very lively, and we spent a good while strolling and people-watching! The rest of our evening was studious, between preparing dinner and booking our next stops.
Day 4: Turkestan, Yasawi Mausoleum, and Sauran ruins
This morning, after one last stroll in Shymkent, we headed to Turkestan. When we arrived at the bus station, we were told the next bus was in nearly three hours, but there were minibuses leaving when full. The system was well-oiled, and in just fifteen minutes, our minibus was ready to go. We each had a seat (and one for our luggage since there’s no trunk!), and the minibus was quite new—nothing like Madagascar ;-)
The trip went well despite a few driving scares—the driver was going a bit fast for my liking! Along the road, the fields were full of poppies—so pretty. When we arrived, we headed straight to the Edem hotel, where we wouldn’t be staying (we had a train to Almaty at midnight) but where we wanted to leave our luggage for the day. They agreed easily—great! Once we’d dropped off our bags and suitcases, we started our visits.
We began with the architectural gem and largest pilgrimage site in Kazakhstan: the mausoleum of Khodja Ahmad Yasawi, a great Sufi sage. Yasawi’s original tomb was already a pilgrimage site when Tamerlane ordered the construction of a larger mausoleum in 1390. It’s decorated with white and blue tiles and has a turquoise dome (currently under renovation). The main facade, unfinished at Tamerlane’s death, was left in earth with visible scaffolding. Impressive! The site is UNESCO-listed. Inside, the main hall displays a large cauldron, and other small rooms showcase plates, ancient coins, belts... Yasawi’s tomb is visible via two adjacent corridors.
We then strolled through the park, which includes many other mausoleums and tombs. We visited the old baths, the Friday Mosque, and then the history museum. The underground mosque, where Yasawi’s cell is located (where he retreated at the end of his life), was unfortunately closed for renovations.
We then went back to the Edem hotel to have them call us a taxi, and we set off to visit the ancient fortress of Sauran. This Silk Road city, once prosperous, is now reduced to ruins, with thousands of poppies blooming between them. High walls once surrounded a bustling and pleasant city. Many foundations remain visible. The place is vast, quiet, almost deserted, and imbued with a certain melancholy... The deep red poppies swayed in the wind, between the remnants of this city, reminding us how fleeting things are.
Back in Turkestan, we had dinner at the Edem hotel’s restaurant (we had to thank them somehow ;-)) and then rushed to the station to catch our train... 18 hours of travel awaited us to Almaty!
Day 5: From Turkestan to Almaty, 18 hours by train across the Kazakh steppe
We traveled from Turkestan to Almaty by train. We booked our tickets the day before departure, and only six seats were left: three in second class, not together at all, and three in first class, also not together but in the same carriage. We opted for first class! It was more expensive, but for such a long trip, a little comfort wouldn’t hurt... We wondered if we’d manage to switch cabins to be together, but it resolved itself: when we boarded, the conductor/carriage chief immediately noticed we weren’t together. He literally kicked a young man out of his berth so we could travel in the same cabin. We felt bad for the young man, even though he seemed to take it well... we thanked him with dried fruit (and I can confirm he took it well—the next day, he came to chat with us). In any case, we were really happy to have our own little cabin for this long journey, especially since we were the only foreigners and the only women in the carriage.
Eighteen hours by train might seem long, but these long trips while traveling aren’t wasted time—they’re the breathing space of the journey. They’re the essential moments for digesting what we’ve already experienced and preparing for future discoveries. They’re also privileged moments for reflection. Traveling slowly, to the rhythm of the train, means falling asleep in Turkestan’s outskirts, lulled by the train’s rocking and creaking, and waking up in the steppe. It’s feeling the train slow down and stop, stepping onto the platform for a moment, and watching the women sell food to passengers. It’s taking the time to write, read, think. It’s chatting with our neighbors and, despite the language barrier, managing to communicate a little. It’s picnicking at the little table in our cabin, with the landscape rolling by outside, and listening to music. It’s feeling privileged, imagining ourselves on the Orient Express or the Trans-Siberian. Reminding ourselves that one day, one day for real, we’ll take that Trans-Siberian. And smiling, thinking that in the meantime, in a few months, there’ll be the Trans-Canadian...
Days 6 & 7: Almaty, the “little apple”
The former capital of Kazakhstan, Almaty is known as the most Western and lively city in the country. At first, we had a bit of trouble identifying the city center—it’s more spread out and less dense than what we’re used to in Europe—but once we got our bearings, we really enjoyed strolling along the wide avenues lined with cafés and in the few pedestrian streets. The city’s emblem is the apple, which you’ll find in various forms around the city, from benches to statues to fountains. The original apple, from which all the apples we know today descend, is said to come from the mountains of Kazakhstan.
For nature, Almaty is a pretty green city. It has large parks, like Panfilov Park, which houses the Zenkov Cathedral. Some streets are also very tree-lined, so much so that they almost look like gardens. Often, high mountains peek out from behind the streets...
For shopping, traditional boutiques sit alongside big international brands. We really liked the Green Bazaar, a large market that sells everything. The food section was great, with stalls of pickled vegetables, dried fruits, and beautifully stacked fresh fruits... A feast for the eyes and lots of temptations for me!
For culture, Almaty has several museums. We visited two: the Fine Arts Museum and the National Museum. Both are housed in very Soviet-looking buildings on the outside, but the Fine Arts Museum turned out to be quite modern inside, with a pleasant museography. The National Museum, on the other hand, has stayed true to its roots ^^ Just walking through it was an experience in itself. And we did quite a bit of shopping there... The hall is a giant shop with lots of handicrafts—we treated ourselves.
The Arasan Baths are a must in Almaty. They’re said to be among the most beautiful baths in Central Asia... Architecturally, I didn’t find them amazing (nothing like Budapest’s, for example), but wow, did it feel good to relax there after a day of sightseeing! I happily moved between the sauna, hammam, and Russian sauna, with a preference for the latter—less dry than a traditional sauna and less humid than the hammam. You can buy bundles of leaves to slap yourself (or get slapped) with to boost circulation. The prices are very affordable too... On a weekday evening, we paid 1,800 tenge, or 4.5 euros, for an hour. Note that they add 20 minutes for changing, so you really get a full hour in the baths.
For restaurants, we didn’t try many because we preferred to limit our food budget by cooking ourselves. However, we did try and highly recommend Daredzhani, a great Georgian restaurant where we feasted. We didn’t know Georgian cuisine before, but we really liked it—vegetables cooked in various ways, cheese-filled breads, potato and/or egg-filled breads, and very thin fruit pastes made from grapes. We actually ate there twice because it was so good! We also loved Coffee Delia, where you can enjoy delicious pastries in a very cozy setting.
Besides being a pleasant place to live, Almaty is also a great base for exploring the surrounding area, and we were happy to stay eight days to discover more of the region!
Days 7, 8 & 9: Getting green around Almaty: Kok Tobe, Shymbulak, Medeo, and Big Almaty Lake
During our stay in Almaty, we used a rather unusual means of transport several times: the cable car! Here, it’s called a "gondola," and it allowed us to gain some altitude and breathe in the fresh mountain air surrounding Almaty ;-)
First cable car ride: Kok Tobe. The cable car starts in the city center and takes you to the top of a hill overlooking Almaty. At the top, it’s fairground vibes with an upside-down house, a Ferris wheel, rides, and the inevitable eagle trainer... There’s even a little corner dedicated to the Beatles, complete with music and a statue!
Second ride: Shymbulak. This time, you take a bus to Medeo, then three cable cars to the top of the mountain, at 3,200 meters altitude. Shymbulak is the largest ski resort in Central Asia. We went there to hike, but there was still snow and skiers, so we settled for admiring the view... With the blue sky and sun we had, it was gorgeous! We then treated ourselves to tea on the terrace—chalet vibes... At Paul’s, we weren’t completely out of place ;-)
Before taking the bus back, we stopped by Medeo, where there’s a large ice rink. With 10,000 m², it can host a thousand skaters in winter! This season, it’s closed; part of it is used as a go-kart track, and the other as a landing strip for paragliders.
Located an hour’s drive from the city center, Big Almaty Lake reveals itself at the last moment, around a bend, nestled in a setting of mountains and greenery. With the recent cold snap, it’s frozen, and the edges are snowy—a beautiful winter atmosphere! The ice was starting to melt, though—we could hear the water moving underneath, and when Coralie tried to walk on the ice, it collapsed under her feet. Unfortunately, it’s impossible to walk around it—a ranger keeps an eye out and blocks the adventurous (including us ;-)).
Days 10 & 11: Excursions around Almaty: Charyn Canyon, Issyk, and Turgen
Almaty’s tourism office is very active and organizes outings on weekends and holidays. We went to Charyn Canyon and then to Issyk and Turgen. A great way to discover the Almaty area at a modest cost (the outing costs about 6,000 tenge, or 15 euros per person).
Formed over millennia by erosion and wind, Charyn Canyon is reminiscent of the Colorado and the Grand Canyon. The most touristy part we visited is called the Valley of Castles, referring to the rock formations that resemble towers. We first walked along the ridge, where there are many viewpoints, then descended into the canyon. A three-kilometer walk leads to the banks of the Charyn River. The place seems to be a favorite relaxation spot for Kazakh families, who picnic, play ball, sunbathe... There’s also a hotel, bungalows, yurts, and a restaurant. Issyk is famous for its burial mounds and its Golden Man—maybe even a Golden Woman—found there. A small museum displays some artifacts. A little further on is Issyk Lake, once dried up but now reappearing... Whether naturally or not isn’t very clear!
As for Turgen, it’s a natural park known for its gorges and waterfalls. We didn’t have time to explore it in detail, but the bus drove through some beautiful landscapes, and we still walked to Bear Waterfall. It’s not incredible, but it’s still a nice little hike.
Besides the practical side of these organized excursions from Almaty, we appreciated being able to do an activity that Kazakhs do on weekends. During the Issyk/Turgen excursion, we really hit it off with Karina, a young student dragged there on vacation by her mother. She’s currently studying computer science at the best university in Astana and hopes to go to Europe eventually... A brilliant young woman, and a chance for us to chat in English ;-)
Days 12 & 13: The spectacular landscapes of Altyn-Emel Park
The last stop on our Kazakhstan trip was Altyn-Emel Park. This park is quite hard to access, so we opted for a car with a driver for two days—pure luxury!
Our driver’s name is Andrei. We met him at 7 AM outside our apartment on Wednesday morning. He doesn’t speak English, but a young man from the agency we booked through was also there, and we went over the itinerary together before leaving with Andrei.
Our first stop was Tamgaly Tas, two hours from Almaty. It’s a site where you can see 16th-century petroglyphs depicting Buddha. The place is also known for climbing—there were lots of young people harnessed up and/or climbing. It’s right in the middle of the Kazakh countryside, and we had a bit of trouble finding it!
Even with the language barrier, Andrei turned out to be very friendly. He suggested photo stops from time to time, didn’t rush us, and pointed out animals he saw... We even backed up on the road to see and help a tortoise cross!
It took another two and a half hours to reach Bashi, the “gateway” village to Altyn-Emel Park. After a quick stop at the rangers’, we arrived at the hotel. Our guidebook mentioned modest guesthouses, but things are changing... The hotel is large, brand new, and still being expanded. It reminded me of some Chinese hotels in Laos.
We had a quick lunch with Andrei—he explained that he’s a truck driver normally, delivering clothes and fabrics between Kazakhstan, Afghanistan, and Russia. He also showed us photos of his wife and son and told us he’s recently become a grandfather! We then headed to the park, grabbing a ranger on the way. Like in Aksou-Jabagly, he was dressed in full military gear. We first headed toward the Katutau Mountains. The rocks are reddish, sculpted by wind and erosion—the place reminded us a bit of Charyn Canyon. We had some “free time” to explore—we didn’t need to be told twice... Meanwhile, Andrei and the ranger chatted nonstop—it looked like they’d hit it off!
We got back in the car and continued along the track to the Aktau Mountains. Change of scenery! The mountains weren’t red anymore but white... Or so they appeared from afar. When we got closer, we realized they were actually multicolored, striped with yellow, pink, and ochre veins... It was magnificent, even more so with the late afternoon light. We had time to explore on our own again, and we walked with delight in this almost dreamlike landscape. We thought we’d made the right choice coming here ;-) We made one last stop before heading back to see a 700-year-old willow. It’s in an oasis where other tourists were camping—very tempting... I got the coordinates of their guide for next time ;-) The way back was in beautiful light, between sunset and a distant storm. Nature even treated us to a gorgeous sunset!
It was past 8 PM when we got back to the hotel, but our dinner was still waiting for us. We ate with Andrei, chatted a bit with a Polish woman who spoke both Russian and French (we put her to work chatting with Andrei ;-)), and then had a quiet evening with Wi-Fi, a shower, and reading in our room.
The next day, after breakfast, we met up with the same ranger and headed toward the singing dunes. These dunes are supposed to make a sound when you slide down their slopes. I was more than skeptical, but okay! When we arrived, we discovered a beautiful landscape—the main dune is gigantic, and when we reached the top, the view was extraordinary: it was the first time I’d seen a dune in the desert, snow-capped mountains, and a river all in one glance! A group of Chinese tourists was ahead of us on the dune, but they turned back quickly, and we were alone. After studying the terrain, I chose a slope that seemed good, and I started sliding down on my bottom... Quickly, I heard and felt a strong vibration, which turned into a hum. The dune really sings! It’s completely crazy... We did several tests—the most effective was sliding down side by side. But it works as long as there aren’t too many tourists doing it and the dune has time to rebuild between slides... There are about thirty singing dunes in the world. This phenomenon, already described by Marco Polo, comes from the synchronous movement of sand grains, which must be very round and covered with a varnish called “desert glaze”...
Covered in sand but delighted, we headed back to Bashi. The ranger stopped at a small spring so we could wash up, but it was almost dry. Along the way, we also saw the “Oshaktas,” a place where Genghis Khan’s expedition is said to have camped in 1219 during his conquest of Central Asia. The stones were apparently used to support the cauldron where food was prepared. A little further on, the ranger made us stop: there were antelopes!!! We saw one up close and a herd further away.
When we got back to the hotel, I took a quick shower to get rid of the sand—I felt like I had it everywhere! We had a quick lunch and then hit the road back to Almaty. Andrei drove very well, had a nice playlist, and I let myself be lulled while watching the landscape roll by outside...
For our last night in Kazakhstan, we booked a yurt in the hills above Almaty, not far from Medeo. For one night, we pretended to be nomads... The bed was a bit hard, and the air was a bit chilly, but we loved it! And the welcome was kind, the meal very good—only downside: the horse milk and camel milk, still warm... I almost threw up. Well, it was an experience, and all of this beautifully concluded our Kazakh stay!
Amis routards bonsoir!!!!!
J'aurais besoin de votre aide pour me décider sur la destination de mes prochaines vacances. Mon choix s'orienterait vers l'Asie Centrale... Je suis déjà allé en Ouzbékistan (que j'ai adoré). Mon choix se porterait donc entre le Kaz. et le Kir.
Mais que dois je choisir entre les 2?...... Please, help me... Est il plus facile de voyager dans l'un ou l'autre de ces 2 pays. Lequel vous parait le plus intéressant?
Merci d'avance pour vos réponses.
PS : j'ai prévu un voyage de 3 semaines à partir de la dernière semaine de juillet.
Jean-Vincent
J'aurais besoin de votre aide pour me décider sur la destination de mes prochaines vacances. Mon choix s'orienterait vers l'Asie Centrale... Je suis déjà allé en Ouzbékistan (que j'ai adoré). Mon choix se porterait donc entre le Kaz. et le Kir.
Mais que dois je choisir entre les 2?...... Please, help me... Est il plus facile de voyager dans l'un ou l'autre de ces 2 pays. Lequel vous parait le plus intéressant?
Merci d'avance pour vos réponses.
PS : j'ai prévu un voyage de 3 semaines à partir de la dernière semaine de juillet.
Jean-Vincent
Nous avons acheté nos billets d'avion vers le Kazakhstan (arrivée Astana, retour Almaty) et y serons 18 jours à la mi-août.
Qui a déjà été dans ce pays ? Que voir ? Comment s'y déplacer ? (En particulier dans le cadre des visites que nous aimerions faire citées ci-dessous). Quelques trucs éventuels à connaître sur ce pays ?
Nous pensions à découvrir: - ASTANA, aéroport d'arrivée pour découvrir rapidement la modernité de cette ville, - ALMATY avec les réserves naturelles autour, les montagnes enneigées proches, le lac Issyl, le canyon CHARYN, les collines funéraires, etc. - SHYMKENT pour les paysages et les vallées alentours (Aksu, ...), - TURKMESTAN avec les mausolées classés UNESCO et les autres monuments, - la mer d'ARAL pour voir le cimetière de bateau et aussi le barrage séparant le petite Aral de la grande Aral, - un cratère d'impact de météore: SHUNAK ou ZHAMASHIN ?, - AKTAU-MAGUISTAOU avec les mosquées souterraines, - aussi les sites de pétroglyphes (mais où ?).
Vu les longues distances du pays, nous pensons nous déplacer en train/avion pour les grandes distances et prendre des taxis sur place pour les visites. Est-il facile de se déplacer dans le pays avec un taxi ? Le prix est-il raisonnable ? Ou vaut-il mieux louer une voiture sans chauffeur à chaque stop ? Si nous louons une voiture sans chauffeur, est-il facile de trouver son chemin ? (Je ne parle pas russe, je parle anglais).
L'idée serait de faire Astana-Almaty en train avec un arrêt mi-chemin pour aller voir le cratère de météore de Shunak renseigné là en espérant trouver un taxi à la sortie de la gare de Moyynty (45km apparemment). Voire même de prendre un train matinal à Astana, de faire quelques heures d'arrêt à Karaganda et ensuite poursuivre vers Moyynty pour y passer la nuit et le lendemain aller voir le cratère de Shunak et ensuite prendre tard le train de nuit vers Almaty.
D'Almaty (17h36), aller vers Shymkent en train de nuit. Visiter la région vers Turkmestan (avec idéalement un taxi, 2 journées complètes et une nuit) et reprendre le train de nuit à 17h10 pour Aralsk.
Revenir d'Aralsk en train (16h30) sur Shymkent (11h30?) d'où on reprend un avion pour Aktau (Caspienne) et là soit louer une auto, soit un taxi pour les visites. Retour vers Almaty en avion. Visite des environs d'Almaty en voiture de location ou taxi (Tcharyn, Tangaly, Bashi (Atlyn Emel), Kolsay)
Est-ce raisonnable ? Et les transports ? Taxis ? Location auto sans chauffeur ? (Les agences sur places sont réellement hors de prix pour louer une voiture avec chauffeur). Et les hôtels, faciles à trouver sur place ?
Merci d'avance pour les infos ;-)
Qui a déjà été dans ce pays ? Que voir ? Comment s'y déplacer ? (En particulier dans le cadre des visites que nous aimerions faire citées ci-dessous). Quelques trucs éventuels à connaître sur ce pays ?
Nous pensions à découvrir: - ASTANA, aéroport d'arrivée pour découvrir rapidement la modernité de cette ville, - ALMATY avec les réserves naturelles autour, les montagnes enneigées proches, le lac Issyl, le canyon CHARYN, les collines funéraires, etc. - SHYMKENT pour les paysages et les vallées alentours (Aksu, ...), - TURKMESTAN avec les mausolées classés UNESCO et les autres monuments, - la mer d'ARAL pour voir le cimetière de bateau et aussi le barrage séparant le petite Aral de la grande Aral, - un cratère d'impact de météore: SHUNAK ou ZHAMASHIN ?, - AKTAU-MAGUISTAOU avec les mosquées souterraines, - aussi les sites de pétroglyphes (mais où ?).
Vu les longues distances du pays, nous pensons nous déplacer en train/avion pour les grandes distances et prendre des taxis sur place pour les visites. Est-il facile de se déplacer dans le pays avec un taxi ? Le prix est-il raisonnable ? Ou vaut-il mieux louer une voiture sans chauffeur à chaque stop ? Si nous louons une voiture sans chauffeur, est-il facile de trouver son chemin ? (Je ne parle pas russe, je parle anglais).
L'idée serait de faire Astana-Almaty en train avec un arrêt mi-chemin pour aller voir le cratère de météore de Shunak renseigné là en espérant trouver un taxi à la sortie de la gare de Moyynty (45km apparemment). Voire même de prendre un train matinal à Astana, de faire quelques heures d'arrêt à Karaganda et ensuite poursuivre vers Moyynty pour y passer la nuit et le lendemain aller voir le cratère de Shunak et ensuite prendre tard le train de nuit vers Almaty.
D'Almaty (17h36), aller vers Shymkent en train de nuit. Visiter la région vers Turkmestan (avec idéalement un taxi, 2 journées complètes et une nuit) et reprendre le train de nuit à 17h10 pour Aralsk.
Revenir d'Aralsk en train (16h30) sur Shymkent (11h30?) d'où on reprend un avion pour Aktau (Caspienne) et là soit louer une auto, soit un taxi pour les visites. Retour vers Almaty en avion. Visite des environs d'Almaty en voiture de location ou taxi (Tcharyn, Tangaly, Bashi (Atlyn Emel), Kolsay)
Est-ce raisonnable ? Et les transports ? Taxis ? Location auto sans chauffeur ? (Les agences sur places sont réellement hors de prix pour louer une voiture avec chauffeur). Et les hôtels, faciles à trouver sur place ?
Merci d'avance pour les infos ;-)
Salut a tous,
bloque a Bishkek pour le moment, sans pouvoir passer en Ouzbekistan en raison de problemes de frontieres, je dois envisager de passer par le Kazakhstan, d'Almaty jusqu'a la mer Caspienne. Je me pose cependant plusieurs questions bien pratiques : la traversee du pays est-elle vraiment realisable, au niveau des ravitaillements en EAU (pas de filtre avec moi, on boit d'habitude l'eau caire sans la traiter) et en nourriture ? Le climat est-il supportable, surtout dans les deserts de l'ouest ? La route qui rejoint Almaty et Aktau est-elle roulable ou fort frequentee ? Les paysages sont-ils sympa ? Grosses questions qui peuvent paraitre un peu bateau, mais je vais devoir me decider d'ici un ou deux jours pour faire mon visa kazakh et je ne sais pas ou trouver des renseignements plus fiables qu'ici 😉 Et puis encore une question a laquelle je n'espere qu'a moitie une reponse : est-il possible d'obtenir le visa azeri dans le PORT de Bakou ? Aucune discussion terminee sur ce sujet sur VF...
Merci a vous !
bloque a Bishkek pour le moment, sans pouvoir passer en Ouzbekistan en raison de problemes de frontieres, je dois envisager de passer par le Kazakhstan, d'Almaty jusqu'a la mer Caspienne. Je me pose cependant plusieurs questions bien pratiques : la traversee du pays est-elle vraiment realisable, au niveau des ravitaillements en EAU (pas de filtre avec moi, on boit d'habitude l'eau caire sans la traiter) et en nourriture ? Le climat est-il supportable, surtout dans les deserts de l'ouest ? La route qui rejoint Almaty et Aktau est-elle roulable ou fort frequentee ? Les paysages sont-ils sympa ? Grosses questions qui peuvent paraitre un peu bateau, mais je vais devoir me decider d'ici un ou deux jours pour faire mon visa kazakh et je ne sais pas ou trouver des renseignements plus fiables qu'ici 😉 Et puis encore une question a laquelle je n'espere qu'a moitie une reponse : est-il possible d'obtenir le visa azeri dans le PORT de Bakou ? Aucune discussion terminee sur ce sujet sur VF...
Merci a vous !
Bonjour,
Quelqu'un aurait-il des informations récentes sur le train Astana-Kiev ? En particulier, un visa simple entrée pour le Kazakhstan et un visa de transit simple entrée pour la Russie suffisent-ils ? En effet j'ai lu que le train sortait du Kazakhstan pour entrer en Russie, puis réentrait au Kazakhstan, avant de ressortir en Russie et de passer en Ukraine.
Merci d'avance !
hi everyone
I’m just starting to plan a trip to Kazakhstan—I’m thinking 4 weeks in summer ’26—and I’m totally in the dark! What route should I take? First off, for my flight ticket, where should I fly into and out of if I want to book soon?
Is it possible to rent a vehicle with a roof rack? Is that generally tolerated? (Maybe around Almaty?)
I love trains, so I’d prefer that mode of transport.
Anyway, I’m counting on your experiences since it’s tough to find practical info about this country. Thanks in advance for your tips
Is it possible to rent a vehicle with a roof rack? Is that generally tolerated? (Maybe around Almaty?)
I love trains, so I’d prefer that mode of transport.
Anyway, I’m counting on your experiences since it’s tough to find practical info about this country. Thanks in advance for your tips
Bonjour, je voudrais cet été visiter Samarcande puis aller au Kazakhstan en train vers Aralsk et redescendre ensuite toujours en train vers Shymkent, Turkestan, Almaty d'où nous repartirons. Des conseils, mises en garde, durées de voyage, horaires, prix approximatifs ? Merci d'avance.
Bonjour a tous,
voila tout est dans le titre😉 On est deux et on recherche le prix du billet de train entre Kiev et Astana....
Sinon, quelqu'un connait il un moyen de prendre ce billet à l'avance, histoire de prendre un visa de transit pour la Russie ? Sinon on prendre un visa traditionnel pour la Russie, histoire de pas trop se compliquer...
Merci d'avance à ceux qui s'interesserons à notre question
A bientot
Guillaume
voila tout est dans le titre😉 On est deux et on recherche le prix du billet de train entre Kiev et Astana....
Sinon, quelqu'un connait il un moyen de prendre ce billet à l'avance, histoire de prendre un visa de transit pour la Russie ? Sinon on prendre un visa traditionnel pour la Russie, histoire de pas trop se compliquer...
Merci d'avance à ceux qui s'interesserons à notre question
A bientot
Guillaume
Bonjour à tous !
J'ai récemment lu un article relatif au train D 1249 au départ de Berlin, en direction d'Astana ds les steppes du Kazakhstan. Ce train parcourt une partie de l'Europe de l'Est en 5 jours jusqu'aux steppes d'Asie Centrale.
Intéressée par son parcours, je souhaite savoir si par hasard vous auriez voyagé aux bords de ce fameux train? et si oui comment aviez vous procédé quant à la paperasserie nécessaire à la traversée de ces pays (Pologne, Bielorussie, Russie...) ?
D'avance merci et belles navigations à vous
J'ai récemment lu un article relatif au train D 1249 au départ de Berlin, en direction d'Astana ds les steppes du Kazakhstan. Ce train parcourt une partie de l'Europe de l'Est en 5 jours jusqu'aux steppes d'Asie Centrale.
Intéressée par son parcours, je souhaite savoir si par hasard vous auriez voyagé aux bords de ce fameux train? et si oui comment aviez vous procédé quant à la paperasserie nécessaire à la traversée de ces pays (Pologne, Bielorussie, Russie...) ?
D'avance merci et belles navigations à vous
Hello!
Je souhaite partir d'ici un mois au Kazakhstan. Je voyage seule et le pays étant grand... J'ai lu qu'un bon moyen de se déplacer était de louer une voiture au départ d'Almaty. Certains d'entre vous ont-ils déjà fait ça et si oui, avez-vous quelques tips/adresse? Comme je souhaite passer 25-30 jours sur place, je souhaiterais relier Almaty au sud du pays puis remonter au nord. Tous les conseils sont les bienvenus, Merci d'avance, Sidonie
Je souhaite partir d'ici un mois au Kazakhstan. Je voyage seule et le pays étant grand... J'ai lu qu'un bon moyen de se déplacer était de louer une voiture au départ d'Almaty. Certains d'entre vous ont-ils déjà fait ça et si oui, avez-vous quelques tips/adresse? Comme je souhaite passer 25-30 jours sur place, je souhaiterais relier Almaty au sud du pays puis remonter au nord. Tous les conseils sont les bienvenus, Merci d'avance, Sidonie
Bonjour,
Je vais partir cet été pour 4 mois en Asie centrale et, pour des raisons de budget et d'envie de découverte, je souhaite le faire sans prendre l'avion.🙂
J'envisage donc de partir des environs de Toulouse et d'arriver à Kzyl-Orda au sud du Kazakhstan en stop, train et peut-être bus. Je cherche pour cela quel serait le meilleur trajet... Je souhaite éviter la Biélorussie (je veux pas prendre de visa) et donc entrer en Russie depuis la Lettonie ou l'Ukraine, puis traverser rapidement la Russie (je pensais y voyager en train)
Je voudrais donc savoir, y-at-il un moyen, en passant en Ukraine, de ne pas passer par Mosocu pour rejoindre le Kazakhstan ? Tous les chemins semblent mener à cette ville, mais ça rajoute des kilomètres !
Est-il possible de consulter les prix des billets de train en Russie à l'avance ?
Et enfin, sur les pays européens, y'en a t-il pour lesquels vous recommanderiez particulièrement le stop, le train ou le bus ?
Je voudrais donc savoir, y-at-il un moyen, en passant en Ukraine, de ne pas passer par Mosocu pour rejoindre le Kazakhstan ? Tous les chemins semblent mener à cette ville, mais ça rajoute des kilomètres !
Est-il possible de consulter les prix des billets de train en Russie à l'avance ?
Et enfin, sur les pays européens, y'en a t-il pour lesquels vous recommanderiez particulièrement le stop, le train ou le bus ?
Salut à tous les grands voyageurs. Dur dur de pouvoir lire des messages sur le Kazakhstan !!! je regarde de temps en temps pour m'informer comme je vais venir y vivre très bientôt mais bon... j'espère qu'en étant sur place je pourrais aider et informer les gens qui passeront par Almaty mais laissez moi le temps de m'y installer.
Sinon si kelkun a une info sur les prix des billets d'avion Almaty - Bangkok je suis preneuse pour voir. J'ai regardé sur Air Astana et ça m'a l'air un peu cher ? voilà si les expat sur place connaissent VF et peuvent me renseigner merci à vous.
😊 et à bientôt.
Bonjour ,
Ce faux train qui relie Berlin à Astana existe-t-il toujours?…si quelqu'un peut me fournir des infos récentes sur ce train merci d'avance !
Je ne sais pas si il existe encore et si oui dans quelles conditions peut on le prendre …
Merci d'avance à toutes et à tous !
Bruno.
Bonjour,
J'envisage un périple en train de Paris à Moscou puis de Moscou à Astana.
Est-ce que quelqu'un a déjà effectué ce voyage ?
Qu'en est-il du visa russe dans la mesure où le Kazakhstan n'exige plus de visa pour les citoyens français si la durée du séjour ne dépasse pas 15 jours ?
Faut-il un visa russe de transit ?
Merci de partager votre expérience et/ou vos connaissances sur le sujet.
J'envisage un périple en train de Paris à Moscou puis de Moscou à Astana.
Est-ce que quelqu'un a déjà effectué ce voyage ?
Qu'en est-il du visa russe dans la mesure où le Kazakhstan n'exige plus de visa pour les citoyens français si la durée du séjour ne dépasse pas 15 jours ?
Faut-il un visa russe de transit ?
Merci de partager votre expérience et/ou vos connaissances sur le sujet.
Bonjour,
Dans le cadre d'un voyage professionnel, je vais passer 3 semaines à Shymkent / Chymkent. Comme j'ai deux week end, je me tate entre: - Faire une randonnée aux alentours de shymkent (on y va en octobre) - faire l'A/R pour almaty et vister almaty - faire l'A/R pour astana et visiter astana
Avez vous des suggestions / préférences?
Merci bcp Antoine
Dans le cadre d'un voyage professionnel, je vais passer 3 semaines à Shymkent / Chymkent. Comme j'ai deux week end, je me tate entre: - Faire une randonnée aux alentours de shymkent (on y va en octobre) - faire l'A/R pour almaty et vister almaty - faire l'A/R pour astana et visiter astana
Avez vous des suggestions / préférences?
Merci bcp Antoine
Bonjour,
Je souhaite me rendre au Kazakhstan par voie terrestre. J'opte pour le bus jusqu'à Kiev, mais je ne sais pas si un trajet assez direct en train existe entre Kiev et Astana, si oui, est-ce possible et comment réserver à l'avance? Ou une compagnie de bus existe-t-elle proposant le trajet que je souhaite faire? Je veux réserver à l'avance pour pouvoir obtenir mon visa de transit Russe qui nécessite un ticket de transport, prouvant, il me semble que je ne vais pas trainer sur la terre Russe.
Si vous avez d'autres idées pour se rendre au Kazakhstan par voie terrestre à moindre frais, je suis preneuse!!
Merci!!!🙂
je suis en train de préparer mon voyage en Asie centrale et je souhaiterais savoir si il est possible de voyager d'ASTANA (où je compte atterrir) à ACHGABAT (d'où je compte repartir), en passant par TACHKENT, uniquement en bus ou si les frontières sont difficiles à passer par voie terrestre ?
Je vais passer 4 jours à Astana fin août.
Je suis à l' a recherche d'un hébergement types: AJ, guest house.Qui a des tuyaux à me donner? Je ne veux pas de couch surfing
Merci d'avance.
Carassou
Nous allons au Kazakhstan mi-août pour 18 jours (donc plus que 15 jours et nécessité d'un visa avant départ auprès de l'ambassade) et nous souhaitons prendre le train de nuit d'Almaty vers Shymkent.
En regardant une carte du pays, il semblerait que la ligne de chemin de fer directe passerait par Bishek, c'est à dire la capitale du Kirghizstan. Si c'est bien le cas, cela signifie alors qu'on quitte le Kazakzstan pour rentrer au Kirghizstan et ensuite rentrer à nouveau au Kazakhstan quelques heures après.
Cela devrait alors faire une sortie du Kazakzstan (expiration du visa donc), une entre/sortie du Kirgkizstan (visa gratuit sur place pour ressortissant UE) et ensuite une entrée au Kazakzstan (nouveau visa gratuit sur place si séjour de maximum 15 jours).
Si tout ceci se confirme, cela signifierait alors pour nous 2 séjours au Kazakhstan, chacun de moins de 15 jours, et que nous ne devrions alors pas demander de visa avant de partir. Mais cette sortie du territoire de quelques heures seulement sera-t-elle réellement considérée comme tel par les autorités du Kazakhstan ?
Une expérience de voyageur svp comme témoignage.
En regardant une carte du pays, il semblerait que la ligne de chemin de fer directe passerait par Bishek, c'est à dire la capitale du Kirghizstan. Si c'est bien le cas, cela signifie alors qu'on quitte le Kazakzstan pour rentrer au Kirghizstan et ensuite rentrer à nouveau au Kazakhstan quelques heures après.
Cela devrait alors faire une sortie du Kazakzstan (expiration du visa donc), une entre/sortie du Kirgkizstan (visa gratuit sur place pour ressortissant UE) et ensuite une entrée au Kazakzstan (nouveau visa gratuit sur place si séjour de maximum 15 jours).
Si tout ceci se confirme, cela signifierait alors pour nous 2 séjours au Kazakhstan, chacun de moins de 15 jours, et que nous ne devrions alors pas demander de visa avant de partir. Mais cette sortie du territoire de quelques heures seulement sera-t-elle réellement considérée comme tel par les autorités du Kazakhstan ?
Une expérience de voyageur svp comme témoignage.
Bonjour,
je recherche a passer du KZ en Mongolie par voix terrestre. J'ai trouvé le moyen il me semble. Il y aurait des bus partant d’Astana pour Oglii en Mongolie en passant par la Russie. Est ce que qq un a déjà pris cette ligne et faut'il un visa de transit russe pour le passage en Russie .
Merci par avance
je recherche a passer du KZ en Mongolie par voix terrestre. J'ai trouvé le moyen il me semble. Il y aurait des bus partant d’Astana pour Oglii en Mongolie en passant par la Russie. Est ce que qq un a déjà pris cette ligne et faut'il un visa de transit russe pour le passage en Russie .
Merci par avance
Bonjour 😏
Seule nouvelle capitale du XXI ème siècle, surgie au milieu de nulle part, entourée de centaines et de centaines de km de steppes, Astana nous a étonné.
En partage, un petit album commenté de notre séjour début avril 2016. Quatre journées résumées en une vingtaine de photos.
Ne vous offusquez pas de voir un bout de notre petit fourgon de plombier sur les clichés, c'est justement lui le fil conducteur de nos balades 😏
Le compte-rendu intégral du Road Trip SIBÉRIE-KAZAKHSTAN est partagé dans ces carnets en ligne, le récit étant à droite des photos, sur "i" :
photos.google.com/...Tm1ya1FGcEI4T0F6eGx3
1. L'arrivée en fourgon après des heures de routes défoncées dans les steppes donne le sentiment de changer de planète.

2. La modernité de la capitale se résume en une date : 1999, année du début des travaux de construction.

3. On se gare facilement face à la Mosquée Nur.

4. Nous la visitons en prenant soin de ne pas déranger des fidèles.

5. Puis, promenade dans la ville. Début avril, la neige est souvent présente. La nuit, les températures sont négatives.

6. Sylvie minuscule devant la façade de l’opéra flambant neuf.

7. Nous continuons vers Bayterek, devenu le monument emblématique d'Astana.

8. Comme tous les Kazakhs qui visitent la capitale, nous prenons l’ascenseur pour une vue saisissante sur le gigantisme des constructions.

9. Ensuite, visite de la toute nouvelle mosquée Sultan Hazrat.

10. Mais Astana, c'est aussi 40 % de Chrétiens Orthodoxes, ainsi qu'en témoigne leur superbe Cathédrale.

11. La visite de nuit nous a impressionné. Khan Shatyr se pare d'abord d'une teinte claire.

12. Puis elle devient progressivement plus soutenue.

13. Nous roulons ensuite vers le mosquée Nur savamment éclairée.

14. Un peu plus tard, nous découvrons l'habillage étonnant des tours de bureaux et d'habitations.

15. Bayterek prend aussi des teintes différentes. Ici, en vert.

16. Puis en rouge écarlate !

17. Les autres édifices ne sont pas en reste avec un jeu de lumière évolutif.

18. Des formes géométriques qui se dessinent par séquences successives.

19. Sultan Hazrat clôt cette balade magique.

20. Nous resterons un long moment à admirer la pureté de son architecture blanche sur fond noir.

Précisions pour ceux qui visitent le Kazakhstan avec leur propre véhicule.
1. En 2016, pour un séjour sans visa, pas d'enregistrement. La Migration Police d'Astana a refusé de nous enregistrer, et aucun souci pour sortir à Petropavlov.
2. Pour le véhicule, confirmation que le document d'importation temporaire établi en entrant par la Russie couvre les 2 pays.
3. Nous ne faisons pas de pub, mais MAPS.ME totalement gratuit nous a bluffé par la précision de la cartographie et du guidage dans une métropole pourtant nouvelle.
Cordialement Sylvie & Bernard
Seule nouvelle capitale du XXI ème siècle, surgie au milieu de nulle part, entourée de centaines et de centaines de km de steppes, Astana nous a étonné.
En partage, un petit album commenté de notre séjour début avril 2016. Quatre journées résumées en une vingtaine de photos.
Ne vous offusquez pas de voir un bout de notre petit fourgon de plombier sur les clichés, c'est justement lui le fil conducteur de nos balades 😏
Le compte-rendu intégral du Road Trip SIBÉRIE-KAZAKHSTAN est partagé dans ces carnets en ligne, le récit étant à droite des photos, sur "i" :
photos.google.com/...Tm1ya1FGcEI4T0F6eGx3
1. L'arrivée en fourgon après des heures de routes défoncées dans les steppes donne le sentiment de changer de planète.

2. La modernité de la capitale se résume en une date : 1999, année du début des travaux de construction.

3. On se gare facilement face à la Mosquée Nur.

4. Nous la visitons en prenant soin de ne pas déranger des fidèles.

5. Puis, promenade dans la ville. Début avril, la neige est souvent présente. La nuit, les températures sont négatives.

6. Sylvie minuscule devant la façade de l’opéra flambant neuf.

7. Nous continuons vers Bayterek, devenu le monument emblématique d'Astana.

8. Comme tous les Kazakhs qui visitent la capitale, nous prenons l’ascenseur pour une vue saisissante sur le gigantisme des constructions.

9. Ensuite, visite de la toute nouvelle mosquée Sultan Hazrat.

10. Mais Astana, c'est aussi 40 % de Chrétiens Orthodoxes, ainsi qu'en témoigne leur superbe Cathédrale.

11. La visite de nuit nous a impressionné. Khan Shatyr se pare d'abord d'une teinte claire.

12. Puis elle devient progressivement plus soutenue.

13. Nous roulons ensuite vers le mosquée Nur savamment éclairée.

14. Un peu plus tard, nous découvrons l'habillage étonnant des tours de bureaux et d'habitations.

15. Bayterek prend aussi des teintes différentes. Ici, en vert.

16. Puis en rouge écarlate !

17. Les autres édifices ne sont pas en reste avec un jeu de lumière évolutif.

18. Des formes géométriques qui se dessinent par séquences successives.

19. Sultan Hazrat clôt cette balade magique.

20. Nous resterons un long moment à admirer la pureté de son architecture blanche sur fond noir.

Précisions pour ceux qui visitent le Kazakhstan avec leur propre véhicule.
1. En 2016, pour un séjour sans visa, pas d'enregistrement. La Migration Police d'Astana a refusé de nous enregistrer, et aucun souci pour sortir à Petropavlov.
2. Pour le véhicule, confirmation que le document d'importation temporaire établi en entrant par la Russie couvre les 2 pays.
3. Nous ne faisons pas de pub, mais MAPS.ME totalement gratuit nous a bluffé par la précision de la cartographie et du guidage dans une métropole pourtant nouvelle.
Cordialement Sylvie & Bernard
Bonjour ,
Quelle est le meilleur itineraire pour voyager de londres a Astana ? y a t'il necessairement une escale quelque part ou un trajet direct est possible ? Quelle est la durée de temps du trajet ? (j'imagine 6 heures grosso modo )
Merci pour ces renseignements .
Kiwi.
Quelle est le meilleur itineraire pour voyager de londres a Astana ? y a t'il necessairement une escale quelque part ou un trajet direct est possible ? Quelle est la durée de temps du trajet ? (j'imagine 6 heures grosso modo )
Merci pour ces renseignements .
Kiwi.
Bonjour à tous,
J'ai pu voir qu'il y avait quelques spécialistes du Kazakhstan sur ce forum, et c'est donc à eux en particulier que je m'adresse. Je suis actuellement en Master d'informatique à Rennes et j'aimerais partir à Astana pour mon stage de fin d'études (6 mois de mars à août 2010). J'aimerais donc savoir :si c'est possible "pratiquement", c'est à dire en terme de possibilité là-bas (entreprises, offres)si le fait d'effectuer un stage là-bas est plutôt un bon ou mauvais point dans un cvsi il faut absolument connaître le russe (je suis en train d'apprendre) sachant que j'ai un anglais courantsi les stages sont rémunéréssi possible quelques contacts ou liste d'entreprise.
Enfin, je précise que je me suis renseigné par le site de la chambre de commerce américaine de là-bas, et il semblerait que toutes les entreprises soient basées à Almaty.
Merci d'avance à tous !
J'ai pu voir qu'il y avait quelques spécialistes du Kazakhstan sur ce forum, et c'est donc à eux en particulier que je m'adresse. Je suis actuellement en Master d'informatique à Rennes et j'aimerais partir à Astana pour mon stage de fin d'études (6 mois de mars à août 2010). J'aimerais donc savoir :si c'est possible "pratiquement", c'est à dire en terme de possibilité là-bas (entreprises, offres)si le fait d'effectuer un stage là-bas est plutôt un bon ou mauvais point dans un cvsi il faut absolument connaître le russe (je suis en train d'apprendre) sachant que j'ai un anglais courantsi les stages sont rémunéréssi possible quelques contacts ou liste d'entreprise.
Enfin, je précise que je me suis renseigné par le site de la chambre de commerce américaine de là-bas, et il semblerait que toutes les entreprises soient basées à Almaty.
Merci d'avance à tous !
Bonjour,
Je pars 4 mois en Asie central cet été... J'atterrirais à Astana et je cherche une guesthouse pas trop chère. Je ne suis pas très regardant sur la qualité de la maison c'est juste pour avoir un point de chute en arrivant dans le pays.
Merci
Bonjour à tous,
Ayant l'opportunité de partir au kazakhstan et plus précisemment à Astana pour 2 ou 3 ans, je recherche toutes sortes d'infos sur ce pays et cette ville. En priorité, quelles sont les possibilités de scolarisation pour mes deux enfants de 3 et 7 ans.
Merci d'avance
bien amicalement
Ayant l'opportunité de partir au kazakhstan et plus précisemment à Astana pour 2 ou 3 ans, je recherche toutes sortes d'infos sur ce pays et cette ville. En priorité, quelles sont les possibilités de scolarisation pour mes deux enfants de 3 et 7 ans.
Merci d'avance
bien amicalement
Quelqu'un a-t-il fait ce trajet ces derniers temps? Si oui, merci d'avance pour tout les renseignements que vous pourrez me fournir.
Hi there,
We're planning a trip from Astana to Dushanbe. By train across Kazakhstan, then using public transport in Kyrgyzstan (circling Lake Issyk-Kul) and Tajikistan, taking the northern route in the latter (from Khujand to Dushanbe).
Have any of you been to these regions recently, and what do you think about the safety aspect?
Thanks in advance! :)
Salut a tous !!
J'ai un vol pour Astana... J'ai prévu daller à Chymkent et à Almaty, et de poursuivre ma route ensuite vers la chine. Je vais faire un "reportage" sur les bazars d'Asie centrale. Auriez vous d'autres villes à me proposer ? Sinon dans ses differents villes, je cherche des adresses de B&B pas cher !
Et de Astana à Chymkent, que me conseillez vous ? le train ? ou la route en passant par Karaganda/Kyzylorda ?
Enfin mon vol arrive a Astana à 00h45... que me conseillez vous ? J'avoue que comme premier contact je ne trouve pas ca follement enthousiasmant de m'aenturer dans une ville que je connais pas au milieu de la nuit ! Le lonely parle d'un Airport Hotel, quelqu'un sait s'il accepte des clients au milieu de la nuit ? et comment y accede t-on ? à pied ? Il me conviendrait bien, au moins pour la nuit !
voila, @ tres bientot et bon voyage a tous !
J'ai un vol pour Astana... J'ai prévu daller à Chymkent et à Almaty, et de poursuivre ma route ensuite vers la chine. Je vais faire un "reportage" sur les bazars d'Asie centrale. Auriez vous d'autres villes à me proposer ? Sinon dans ses differents villes, je cherche des adresses de B&B pas cher !
Et de Astana à Chymkent, que me conseillez vous ? le train ? ou la route en passant par Karaganda/Kyzylorda ?
Enfin mon vol arrive a Astana à 00h45... que me conseillez vous ? J'avoue que comme premier contact je ne trouve pas ca follement enthousiasmant de m'aenturer dans une ville que je connais pas au milieu de la nuit ! Le lonely parle d'un Airport Hotel, quelqu'un sait s'il accepte des clients au milieu de la nuit ? et comment y accede t-on ? à pied ? Il me conviendrait bien, au moins pour la nuit !
voila, @ tres bientot et bon voyage a tous !








