12 days in Israel, before...

I’m continuing the day of the 18th with our guide. After a break for lunch at a nice seaside restaurant, Goldman Court (very different vibe from old Jaffa),



we walk through the small streets of Neve Tzedek, the first neighborhood outside Jaffa to be built, and it still has many houses from that era.



We pass by the Suzanne Dellal Center, a world-famous contemporary dance center. There are lots of art shops and nice restaurants in this neighborhood, which has been preserved from high-rise buildings.

We head back to our hotel, which is on the edge of this neighborhood. It was an excellent day with a great guide.

We have dinner at Depi, a restaurant we’d spotted nearby that looked simple. Turns out, the food was quite sophisticated and pricey, but the atmosphere was good. Tomorrow, we’re exploring Tel Aviv on our own.

Day of May 19 We’re picking up the car reserved by Voyageurs du Monde at Hertz. The taxi ordered by the hotel changes its mind at the last minute and leaves us stranded. The hotel receptionist also gives up and sends us to nearby Rothschild Boulevard to try hailing a taxi on the fly. Unfortunately, there aren’t many taxis passing by, and the first four that stop aren’t interested in our ride. We split up on either side of a big intersection, but it takes about twenty minutes before we finally find one willing to take us to Hertz. There, the usual paperwork at rental agencies, then they hand us the keys and just point to the car parked in double file outside the door.

It’s ours—a Citroën C3 covered in scratches and dents, with busted rims and not cleaned. No walkthrough. No document showing the car’s condition. We stop as soon as possible to take a whole bunch of photos to avoid any issues on return, which actually proves useful.

From there, we head to the Tel Aviv Museum of Art, with a few hiccups using Google Maps, which sends us into a maze of charming but very narrow streets. The architecture of this museum is a work of art in itself. We’re welcomed into a vast hall topped by a large Roy Lichtenstein painting.



Gentle sloping ramps lead to the exhibition rooms.



On the first floor, there are several collections from donations, all of high quality. The first collection, from Moshe and Sara Mayer, spans from Van Gogh to Picasso, with an exceptional set of paintings despite the heavy carved wooden frames, like the Vlaminck below.

The other collections feature numerous works by dozens of famous painters, all very well presented.



We’re obsessed with a Chagall.

a Chirico



a Signac



among dozens of other treasures. We skip Helena Rubinstein’s collection, made up of miniature reproductions of rooms from around the world, to head to the basement, where there’s a darker ensemble featuring Van Dyck, Brueghel, etc., and, as the highlight, a moving family portrait by a Dutch master.

Afterward, lunch at the museum’s restaurant, seated in the sculpture garden—pleasant atmosphere and decent food, especially for a museum café. To be continued

Day 18 in the afternoon After a short rest at the hotel, we head back out to the neighborhood to take a closer look at the Bauhaus buildings scattered around. The original pure style has sometimes been adapted to the climate here, with added ledges to provide a bit of shade from the sun, like at 12 Lilienblaum Street, right near our hotel.



Further on, we walk down Rothschild Boulevard to the Founders' Fountain, which pays tribute to the 69 Jews who founded Tel Aviv in 1909.



And to its monument proclaiming the three pillars of their mission: culture, religion, and labor.



A beautiful day in a vibrant, lively city. The current average age is 31. So, all the behaviors you’d expect from European youth are present here—just amplified. On the positive side: lots of art shops, great restaurants everywhere, lively neighborhoods, beautiful people in the streets, etc. On the negative side: chaotic electric scooter traffic and—something we don’t see as much of yet—tons of electric bikes that can hit 40-50 km/h, ridden like scooters, against traffic, on sidewalks, honking at you if you’re in their way[:(]. Also, a complete lack of motivation from young servers and hotel staff, along with some unprofessional setups.

The city’s architecture is also really pleasant. We’re leaving tomorrow for Acre, having left plenty to see in Tel Aviv, but our main interest isn’t in big cities or beaches.

This trip took place in May 2023, a calm period that later proved precarious. Day of May 17 Departure from Marseille on El Al (tickets booked by ourselves, while the stay itself was organized by Voyageurs du Monde). Before check-in, six or seven El Al staff members conducted a security check—quite understandable, but they did it in total chaos. They sent people left, then blocked them, redirected them to the right, for no apparent reason. Most of the staff didn’t speak French, which made things much more complicated. They worked at an incomprehensible slow pace, stopping the interview to go do something else, then coming back and starting over from scratch...

Hi, I’m surprised by the mess with El Al. Usually, it’s very organized. But you never know—you must’ve dealt with trainees. [;)] That happens often.

Marseille Airport isn’t exactly a model of organization either.

Day of May 20 We hit the road to Acre right after breakfast—120 kilometers, a smooth drive all the way to the outskirts of Acre. Driving is much easier than in Tel Aviv, with cars all going roughly the same speed. Arriving in Acre is tricky, though, because Google Maps keeps changing the route and leads us around a bit. We stop at the first parking lot we see. Lucky for us, it’s the closest one to the citadel. We head through the souk toward the port.





We stroll along the port, surrounded by loads of local tourists looking for thrills on speed boats that take them for a wild ride in the bay in front of the port.

We head back along the port’s ramparts to have lunch at Khan al-Shawarda Square in a restaurant run by Muslims. The square is a large, square-shaped plaza lined with 18th-century buildings. It was originally a monastery. Beautiful setting.

Afterward, we make our way back to the citadel. The visit starts with a walk through the aptly named Enchanted Garden, with its lovely trees—huge ficus trees that were supposedly planted during the British Protectorate.



I’ll continue the citadel visit later—it deserves a whole post to itself.

Absolutely, it’s a remarkable city. I can’t wait to hear the rest of your trip! 😊

There’s very little local life, except in the lower part of the city. To be continued, as I’ve used up the allowed number of photos.

Hi, regarding local life, it’s true that the upper part of Jaffa isn’t very lively. There are some high-end accommodations and luxury artisans, especially jewelers.

The area near the fishing port, however, is very lively, with frequent—even regular—art exhibitions in old warehouses. Not to mention a good number of really nice restaurants.

For the lower city opposite the port, the must-see is actually Jaffa’s flea market, which is world-famous. And don’t miss the carpet merchants from the Iranian Jewish community. It’s definitely worth checking out.

And to finish, a stop at the best shakshuka restaurant in the Middle East, Doctor Shakshuka! A must! https://beteavone.com/fr/restaurant/dr-chakchouka/

Why do you say you’ve exceeded the allowed number of photos? There’s nothing in Jaffa that justifies a ban. Or did you try to take photos of people?

Best regards,

We head back along the port ramparts to have lunch at Khan al-Shawarada Square in a restaurant run by Muslims. The square is a large, square-shaped plaza lined with 18th-century buildings. It was originally a monastery. Lovely setting. I’ll continue the visit to the citadel later—it deserves a whole post to itself.

If I may, I think there’s a stylistic mistake in your wording. Acre, or Akko, is originally an Arab city. That’s not pejorative—it’s home to Israeli Arabs (which they all are), Arab Muslims, and Arab Christians.

So when you go to a "Muslim" restaurant, you’re actually going to a restaurant run by someone of Arab descent. Similarly, if you go to a restaurant run by Israelis, you wouldn’t say "a Jewish restaurant" but rather "a restaurant run by Israelis."

In this Middle Eastern cultural melting pot, years ago, it was common to see some pretty harsh conflicts between the two communities—Arab and Israeli, Muslim and Jewish.

Leaders from both communities met and established a *modus vivendi* that helped restore peace. Today, leaders often meet to address everyday issues, and the theological discussions they organize are of very high philosophical caliber. That said, you’d need to master the Quran in its original text and the Torah Talmud, which isn’t easy.

Have a great day.

Max 10 photos per post on VoyageForum

10 photos max per post on VoyageForum

My bad!!! I thought it was on-site. Given there are places that are "hardly" photogenic! Sorry.

Thanks Mitch for these clarifications. It's a travel journal, by definition not deeper than what a few days' stay allows.

Next, Acre The entrance to the Templar fortress is through Ottoman-era fortifications, which provide access underground to the fortress ruins.

At the bottom of the stairs, there are rooms with impressive vaulted ceilings.





Next, we move into the large central courtyard where the Templar knights trained.

Then, we enter the magnificent refectory hall, whose 10-meter-high vault is supported by three massive pillars.

With a fleur-de-lis on two of the corner capitals of the room.

We then pass through the narrow tunnel that allowed escape to other parts of the fortress. We then pass through the narrow tunnel that allowed escape to other parts of the fortress. After this visit, we’re completely in awe of the scale of the structures and the beauty of the whole site. Next, we try to check into our hotel, but the GPS sends us into the streets of the old city, where two-way streets are only as wide as a single vehicle (I say "vehicle" because there are several carriages shuttling tourists around, which limits traffic speed to a horse’s pace and makes passing tricky). We drive around for over an hour, repeatedly coming across roads marked as open on the GPS but actually closed to traffic. Eventually, we have to leave the center, take a long detour, and finally reach a parking lot near our guesthouse, located right in the old city. It’s full, and we spend fifteen minutes circling without finding a spot before ending up parking on the sidewalk to walk the 300 meters to the hotel. We navigate through narrow alleys.

Two hotel staff come to take our luggage, and we manage to find a proper parking spot. After a short rest, we head back to the port, where we admire the thick walls built by the Ottomans.

We then have dinner on the ramparts at Doniana restaurant, recommended by Voyageurs du Monde—and rightly so, because the food is good and the value for money is better than what we’ve encountered so far. We order a Saint Peter fish, expecting a John Dory, but the fish that arrives has nothing to do with what we call Saint Peter in France—it’s actually a tilapia. It’s called Saint Peter because of the miracle performed by Jesus when the tax collectors asked him to pay his dues. He then asked Saint Peter to go fishing. In the mouth of the first fish, he found a coin, hence the name of this fish. There’s a great atmosphere on the seaside ramparts as we head back to our hotel. A really great day, despite the difficulties getting around and parking.

Wow, and wow again!! You picked the perfect walk in Acre! The Templar city is a must-see! Save your tears for parking and traffic until you get to Jerusalem! 😭 😂😂😂 Your travel journal is great!!

When night falls over Acre

Acre is a beautiful city whose walled heart deserves long explorations. We regret having spent only a day there, but at every stop, we regretted not being able to stay longer. These are the limits of a 12-day trip: visiting fewer places and seeing more at each one, or the opposite. We tried to find a middle ground. Day of May 21 The next morning, breakfast is at a rather late hour (8 AM), but at 8 AM, nothing is ready. The people in charge are moving around in a disorganized way, with little efficiency. We eat what we can and leave as quickly as possible, eager to get away from this picturesque but impractical guesthouse. On the way to Tiberias, we make a detour through Safed. We struggle to park the car and only manage to do so far from the neighborhood we’re interested in. We walk through the city center via a rather dull main street and head to the old quarter, built on a hillside with a network of alleys perpendicular to the slope, connected by a few lanes following the slope and some stairs—all inaccessible to cars. We have trouble finding the synagogues we came to visit because we’re looking for important buildings on the slopes. In reality, we’ll see that these synagogues are quite modest. From alley to alley, we finally find the charming little Ari Ashkenazi Synagogue, one of the oldest in Israel, where we admire the beautiful Holy Ark. At the entrance, a worshiper hands out kippas and collects them at the exit with a small donation.







Further on, we come to the Abouhav Synagogue, but unfortunately, we can’t go inside because a ceremony is taking place. We’ll only see the beautiful blue interior in photos.



All around, the charming cobbled alleys are home to many art shops, and we stroll through them for a while.







Before heading back to Tiberias. Our hotel is a large ranch/hotel/restaurant complex in Vered Hagalil, where we settle into a spacious, well-equipped bungalow. From the terrace, there’s a wide view of the Sea of Galilee, along with some mosquito company. The restaurant turns out to be quite good, with an impressive wine list that the waiter helpfully guides us through.



To be continued

After lunch on-site, we head down to Capernaum, but we arrive too late to enter the site, which closes early. We stroll along the shores of the lake where Jesus walked on water.



Near an Orthodox church



And we return, passing by the ruins of Chorazin, a village cursed by Jesus for the religious indifference of its inhabitants, which was destroyed by an earthquake in the 4th century. A transitional day.

Day of May 22 Today, we catch up on our schedule by starting as early as possible for Capernaum. The site is known for the miracle Jesus performed there, healing a sick man who had to be lowered through the roof due to the chaos inside the building (hence the meaning of the word "capharnaum" in French). Extensive ruins remain, home to a few families of large rodents, the Cape hyraxes, like the dozens you see on Table Mountain in Cape Town.





Among these ruins, you can admire an ancient synagogue, of which a few white marble columns remain, with beautifully carved Corinthian capitals.



You can also see the foundations of the octagonal house that is said to be that of the apostle Peter, topped by a rather ugly new church where we can’t enter because a mass is in progress.

To be continued

Day of May 22 Today, we’re catching up on our schedule by starting as early as possible for Capernaum. The site is known for the miracle Jesus performed there, healing a sick man who had to be lowered through the roof because of the chaos inside the building (which is where the French word "capharnaüm" comes from).

Among these ruins, you can admire an ancient synagogue, with a few remaining white marble columns and beautifully sculpted Corinthian capitals.

You can also see the foundations of the octagonal house believed to be that of the apostle Peter, topped by a rather ugly new synagogue where we can’t enter because a mass is in progress. To be continued

Great observation about Capernaum! It really is a maze!! [;)]

The ancient synagogue you mentioned is called the "Synagogue of Jesus." It was his place of prayer. It’s quite damaged, that’s for sure.

Regarding the foundations of Peter’s octagonal house, it’s not a synagogue but a Catholic church. And just a reminder, there’s no mass in a synagogue.[;)]

Beautiful photos.

Thanks again, Mitch, for that correction. From Capernaum, we head to Tabgha, where the Church of the Multiplication is located—the site where Jesus performed the miracle of the loaves and fishes.



Under the hotel, they left the rock exposed where Jesus performed the multiplication.

The church also has beautiful mosaics currently being restored by German Benedictines—a very meticulous process we got to witness. We continue our journey around the Sea of Galilee and stop at Kursi to see the ruins of a large Byzantine monastery, destroyed—some say by the Persians, others by an earthquake. It’s believed to have been built on the site of a miracle where Jesus healed a man possessed by a demon by transferring the evil spirit into a pig.

The impressive complex is built from black volcanic stone with marble columns.



We continue our route around the Sea of Galilee and stop at Kursi to see the ruins of the large Byzantine monastery, destroyed—some say by the Persians, others by an earthquake. It’s said to have been built on the site of a miracle where Jesus healed a man possessed by a demon by transferring the evil spirit into a pig.

The impressive complex is built from black volcanic stone with marble columns.



Some beautiful mosaics remain, including one depicting two ducks and another with a Greek inscription.





Further on, you can see the underground remains of an extensive bathhouse, including the underfloor heating system with surviving pillars.



We have lunch at Kibbutz Ein Gev, at the Fishermen’s Restaurant, which has a lovely terrace overlooking the Sea of Galilee. But due to the heat—nearly 40°C—the service is indoors only. We’re getting used to it now, so we go for grilled St. Peter’s fish. [:)] This afternoon, we’ll continue to the archaeological site of Hippos.

After lunch in Ein Gev, we take a small unmarked road at the exit of the kibbutz to climb the slopes overlooking the Sea of Galilee to the east and see the site of Hippos, where numerous civilizations succeeded one another. The city is said to have been founded by the Greeks of Ptolemy, then occupied by another Hellenistic branch, followed by Jews, then the Romans, and finally by Muslims before being completely destroyed by the 749 earthquake and abandoned. The site has only been excavated recently, and much of it is still off-limits due to ongoing digs. There are many remains.







You can see the scale of the site without being able to leave the marked trail set up for visitors, which protects the ongoing excavations.



A really interesting day, with beautiful sites and landscapes all along the roads. Tomorrow, we’re heading to Masada, a historic high point where a group of Jews rebelling against the Roman Empire took the site from the Roman garrison in 66 AD.

A really interesting day, with beautiful sites and landscapes all along the roads. Tomorrow we're heading to Masada, a historic high point where a group of Jews rebelling against the Roman Empire took the site from the Roman garrison in 66 AD.

Nice trip between Tiberias and Masada! Route 90, I presume?

Day of May 24 As we step out of the room, we come face to face with an ibex, which seems very at ease among the hotel’s shrub beds and isn’t bothered by our presence at all. Today’s plan: the Masada fortress, about fifteen kilometers from Ein Gedi.



Before arriving at Masada (via Route 90, Mitch), we admire the extraordinary rock formations created by erosion in the limestone.



At the cable car, there’s hardly any line, and we’re quickly up on the plateau, with stunning views in every direction.







Despite the heat (over 38°C), which makes us seek shelter in the slightest shade,

We take our time exploring this extraordinary site, which Herod managed to supply with water, thanks to the work of many slaves, and where a few hundred Jews resisted the Roman troops after defeating the Roman garrison. This makes Masada a symbolic place for the Jewish people. A model displayed on the plateau gives a great overview of the fortress.



There are many points of interest, but especially the ruins of the Byzantine chapel, with walls decorated with stones embedded in mortar and beautiful mosaics.







Masada to be continued—I’ve hit the photo limit for this post!!

Continuing our visit to Masada: while walking around the plateau, we reach the staircase that leads to the top floor of Herod’s palace. It’s worth the effort because you have to climb the said staircase, which has 200 to 300 steps. All that remains of the palace is a beautiful set of colonnades and a few frescoes preserved in their original state.











An amazing visit, but exhausting due to the temperature. On the way back, we stop late for lunch at Ein Bokek, a 100% touristy spot packed with all-inclusive hotels. The meal was bad and expensive. Back in Ein Gedi, we relax and try out the hotel’s Dead Sea water pool to experience its curious properties. It’s fun to float on your back and propel yourself with just hand movements. Later, we skip the restaurant for dinner and head to the bar instead—much friendlier service, and the menu is simple but more than enough for us.

Totally agree with you about the restaurants in Ein Bokek!

I just realized I skipped the day of May 23, which was actually marked by the memorable visit to the magnificent site of Beit Shean. In the morning, we reluctantly left the comfortable bungalow at Vered Hagalil to head toward the Dead Sea. We made a very long stop at Beit Shean, an impressive site due to its size, where numerous civilizations succeeded one another—from the Neolithic period to the Egyptians, Greeks (under Greek rule, Beit Shean was one of the ten cities of the Decapolis), and Romans—until the earthquake in 749 that destroyed the city. The site is that of a city with tens of thousands of inhabitants, spanning over ten hectares.





It’s structured around a beautiful central colonnaded street.

To the west, there are very significant baths, with the entire underfloor heating system still intact.







At the eastern end of the colonnaded street, you’ll find the ruins of a large temple.





Another remarkable feature: the 7,000-seat amphitheater that overlooks the site.



We spent several hours exploring this vast site, where there’s so much to see. To our surprise, there were very few visitors, unlike the Christian sites packed with tour buses. More to come from the rest of the day!

Continuation from May 23

After visiting Beit Shean, we continue to Kalya Beach, where we head down to the Dead Sea. The site is very well organized to make the most of tourists: paid parking, paid beach access. We have lunch at the lowest restaurant in the world, at -200 meters.

We’re the only customers, but it takes the two cooks a quarter of an hour to cut 10 tomatoes in half, add some feta pieces, and drizzle the sauce. While waiting, we enjoy the view of the Dead Sea.

We then head back to Ein Gedi to refuel and reach the Ein Gedi kibbutz where our hotel is located. Unfortunately, the gas station indicated on our map no longer exists—the site, which included a spa and restaurant, was closed due to risk of collapse. We arrive at the hotel on fumes and ask them to help us out, as the nearest pump is in Ein Bokek, 30 km away, which we definitely can’t reach. There’s a pump in the kibbutz, but no one seems willing to assist us. The reception sends us (on foot) to the checkpoint 700 meters away. The checkpoint sends us back to reception... On the way back, a taxi takes pity on me, stops, and kindly gives me 10 liters of fuel, which allows us to make it to Ein Bokek. The hotel staff’s attitude was very unfriendly (the manager even suggested we call our travel insurance to send a taxi from Ein Bokek with a jerrycan of gas!!) and there was a complete lack of cooperation from the staff. Fortunately, the rooms are spotless, with a breathtaking view of the rugged valley behind the hotel.



We dine at the hotel’s restaurant, which is a buffet. The dishes are half-cold, the chicken thighs are dry, probably reheated from the day before, and the sautéed potatoes are hard and cold. It’s also a real struggle to get a drink. The food is left uncovered, and everyone serves themselves with no regard for basic hygiene rules. It seems to suit the groups who pile their plates high, but this is low-quality cafeteria food. At 160 shekels per person, we wouldn’t recommend it. A great day marked by the remarkable visit to Beit Shean. Zero points for the welcome at Ein Gedi kibbutz and the value for money at its cafeteria..

Every time I visit, I never set foot in Kibbutz Ein Gedi. It’s a total tourist trap. Too bad for you and your experience. As for gas, everything’s been closed in Ein Gedi since the floods and destruction a few years back. And in Ein Bokek, is the parking at the end of the site paid? Is the public beach paid too?

You’ve got to separate the kibbutz from the hotel-restaurant where I was so poorly received. They took advantage of their position (or rather, they *used* to take advantage of it, because right now tourism is at zero). In Ein Bokek, there were still free parking lots and beach access.

Day of May 25 It's a transition day, on the way to Jerusalem. We’ve already had a great trip so far! :)



As in the previous days, driving is no problem until we reach the outskirts of Jerusalem, where Google Maps guidance becomes trickier. We make a quick stop to drop off our luggage at the Brown JLB hotel, in a lively neighborhood near the Old City, and park the car further away in an open parking lot recommended by Voyageurs du Monde for Shabbat. A nice downtown hotel. Warm welcome. The room is relatively small but well-equipped and very well furnished. The common areas are inviting, with deep leather sofas. In the evening, we head to the First Station, a former railway station that’s now a gathering spot with rides, activities, and all kinds of restaurants—very calm at this time of day.

And we dine at Culinary Workshop, a trendy restaurant right near the First Station. Great atmosphere, good food, and excellent service.

Day of May 26 Our guide, Deborah C., picks us up at the hotel at 9 AM for a full tour of Jerusalem’s Old City. She’s a Franco-Israeli who’s been living in Israel for 20 years. We start at Jaffa Gate, the closest entry point. First fun fact: they had to cut an opening in the wall to the right of the gate to let Emperor Wilhelm II pass on horseback during his visit. We pass by the Imperial Hotel, built in the late 19th century, where Wilhelm II stayed during his visit. Its façade is remarkable.



Then we leave the eastern entrance of the citadel to our right—we’ll visit it tomorrow for the sound-and-light show held inside.



We continue inside the walls to the room where the Last Supper, Christ’s final meal, took place. It’s far from the famous depiction by Leonardo da Vinci. The room bears traces of Muslim occupation, with an Arabic inscription confirming there was once a mosque here.



Alongside it, a carved capital depicts young pelicans piercing their mother’s heart—a sculpture attributed to the Crusaders.

On other pillars, we spot graffiti left by the Crusaders.

Since Muslims still consider this room a sanctuary and Jews venerate King David’s tomb here, there’s significant interfaith tension around this site. Miracles are said to have occurred in this room, with pilgrims suddenly speaking languages they didn’t know before. For this reason, some visitors lie on the ground and pray to experience the same miracle.



To be continued in another post (photo limit reached)

Continuing from Jerusalem. After visiting the Cenacle, we arrive above the Cardo, a grand avenue lined with colonnades that spanned Jerusalem from one end to the other during Roman times.



As we can see on the Madaba mosaic that Deborah is showing us.



A little further on, we spot the Sidna Omar Mosque, with its tall minaret and a beautiful jacaranda tree brightening up the building.



We cross the square in front of the Hurva Synagogue, prepared for a big celebration.



We continue through small paved alleys to the top of the Western Wall (the term "Wailing Wall," which we use in France, is quite reductive and disrespectful given the site's religious significance for Jews), where we get an overview of the wall.



We can also see the Dome of the Rock, which we won’t be able to approach since the Temple Mount is closed to non-Muslims today.



We go down to the wall, with the women on the right and the men on the left, who can enter the covered vaulted section to the left of the wall. Many worshippers are praying there in front of stands holding Torah scrolls. I refrain from taking photos, though no one seems to mind.

The wall is a constant source of conflict between Orthodox Jews and non-Orthodox Jews, as the latter do not practice gender segregation. Women have eventually managed to get a stool placed on their side, allowing them to catch a glimpse of their male children on the other side of the partition during their bar mitzvah. We then pass through small streets,





and admire one of the fountains built by Suleiman the Magnificent along the way,



We cross a souk where not all the items are local, by the way. [:)]



To be continued...

Continuing from Jerusalem.

We walk through a souk where not all the items are local, far from it [:)]

to be continued

Alas! That's right! And with all faiths mixed together, by the way!

Jews, Catholics, Muslims—they all have one thing in common: they sell Chinese products. It’s a pretty flimsy basis for reconciliation.

Jews, Catholics, Muslims—they all have one thing in common: they sell Chinese products. It’s a pretty light basis for reconciliation.

We agree. That said, the shops in the souk are overwhelmingly run by very old Palestinian families. And your guide must’ve told you—the streets used to be wider, but commerce led to the stalls narrowing the alleys. I’m talking about the Arab Quarter of the Old City here. In the Armenian Quarter, it’s Armenians running the stalls. And in the Jewish Quarter, it’s Jews. But since Jaffa Gate is the most used by tourists, you’ve probably seen the result! That’s where the expression "The Souk" comes from!

Past the souk, we arrive again at the wall in its westernmost section, known as the Little Wall or Little Kotel. Two female worshippers are praying there in peace.



We continue into the Arab Quarter, where some houses display photos or representations of Mecca, a sign that their inhabitants have made the pilgrimage to this sacred Muslim site.





We follow the Via Dolorosa, whose route has changed over the centuries, with each Christian denomination trying to have its own station (to attract pilgrims and their offerings). In front of the Chapel of the Flagellation, marking the second stop, we come across singing processions of pilgrims, with crosses and guitars leading the way.





Inside, a large stained-glass window depicts the scene of the flagellation.



Next to the Chapel of the Flagellation is the Chapel of the Condemnation, run by the Franciscans.



We then arrive at the Basilica of Ecce Homo, built in the late 19th century at the spot where Pontius Pilate is said to have presented Jesus to the crowd, saying "Ecce Homo," hence its name. Its architecture, in a very classical style, is interesting.



The Via Dolorosa then leads us to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.



Deborah draws our attention to the wooden ladder placed on a ledge. This ladder has been there since 1757 [:)] [:)][:)]. Following an agreement on the sharing of the management of holy sites among the various churches, the Ottomans froze the distribution of each element of the sites at that date, an agreement known as the *status quo*, later reinforced by the Treaties of Paris in 1856 and Berlin in 1878. This rule has governed the smallest details for two centuries, sometimes bordering on the absurd. The *status quo* establishes in detail the schedules of ceremonies, the placement of lamps, and the responsibility for each part of the building. The principle is that no church can encroach on the territory of others within the building. For example, the Greek Orthodox have the right to open the south windows of the Basilica of the Nativity, but only during cleaning, while the Armenians have the right to clean the north face of the pillar supporting the Greek Orthodox pulpit, but only up to the ledge, and so on... This ladder, present when the *status quo* was drafted, was not mentioned in it. Since then, an agreement among the six churches of the *status quo* (the Greek Orthodox Church, the Roman Catholic Church, the Armenian Apostolic Church, the Coptic Orthodox Church, the Ethiopian Orthodox Church, and the Syriac Orthodox Church) would be needed to move it. This detail illustrates the ongoing battle among the various churches and congregations that share the management of these sites. Each one fights to gain control of as many symbolic places as possible. Behind these struggles lie issues far removed from the precepts of the religions involved, with power struggles playing out over ridiculously trivial matters.



To be continued

Special: Church of the Holy Sepulchre: Continuing our visit, we spend a very long time at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, though it’s quite challenging because the inside is packed with pilgrims. The tour starts at the Chapel of the Crucifixion, run by the Catholic Church.

Next to it is the Chapel of Golgotha, where the rock on which Jesus was crucified emerges from the ground, all framed by an Orthodox altar. You can touch the rock by inserting your hand into an opening under the altar (if you’re very patient).



A little further on, worshippers pray with lit candles. We keep an eye on those candles, as they’ve already caused fires in the past.





Back on the ground floor, many people are queuing up in front of the Stone of Anointing. This is where Jesus’ body is said to have been laid to be anointed with oil before burial. In reality, the original stone was destroyed by pilgrims taking pieces of it. The Orthodox replaced it with a pink marble slab (prettier, but not very Israeli in origin), and surrounded it with six copper pillars (two belong to the Orthodox Church, two to the Catholic Church, and two to the Armenian Church). Above it hang eight lamps—four Orthodox, two Armenian, one Catholic, and one Coptic. To add to the theatrical scene, the clergy anoint the stone with oil every morning, and pilgrims rub their scarves and handkerchiefs on it.



Among the pilgrims, clergy from various denominations move around, sometimes preceded by bodyguards to keep away unwanted visitors. These clergy bless the different parts of the Holy Sepulchre to assert their church’s presence and rights over the site. The law governing the Holy Sepulchre is actually the *Wafq*, a Muslim law concerning religious properties. Under this rule, you lose a right if you don’t use it, and encroachment by neighbors becomes legal if you don’t oppose it.



The Tomb of Christ is impossible to reach because of the crowds.





Next, we head to the Catholicon, an Orthodox church with a spectacular choir, which is the center of the Holy Sepulchre.





To be continued

We finish our tour of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre with some less crowded spots: the small Syrian Jacobite chapel, which is in dire need of restoration, and where Joseph of Arimathea’s tomb is located. Here, we find a bit of quiet reflection among the few people present.



A Coptic priest passes by, far from the gilded splendor of the other churches here.





We leave the Church of the Holy Sepulchre a little surprised by the atmosphere inside. It must be said that the disparate architecture and the complicated layout of the place don’t exactly encourage quiet reflection—nor does the procession of clergy on blessing rounds. To wrap up this long day of sightseeing (seven hours, with just a quick lunch break), we head back to our hotel through a shopping arcade with luxury stores, which connects the Old City to the area near our hotel. Along the way, we notice a box housing what we later learn is a *hanukkiah*, an eight-branched candelabrum (plus one) lit during Hanukkah, the Jewish holiday commemorating an ancient victory of the Jews over the Seleucids.



We also spot small artworks featuring *mezuzahs*, tiny cases containing a scroll with excerpts from the Torah.



It was an amazing day with an excellent guide—we saw, learned, and felt so much that it’ll take us a while to process it all.

May 27th We set off for Bethlehem and Jericho with a Palestinian driver and car so we could access these areas, which are off-limits to Israelis. The vehicle is a very uncomfortable 20-seater bus. The driver speaks English, but as soon as we leave, he puts in earbuds and starts talking to someone on the phone. He’ll keep this up all day and only speak to us four times in total. Due to the size of the bus, we’re turned away by the police 500 meters from the Church of the Nativity, forcing us to walk the rest of the way in the heat. By the time we arrive, I’m on the verge of feeling faint, so we grab a coffee in the shade at Manger Square—a pedestrian area—before heading into the church. Minibuses are constantly dropping off tourists/pilgrims at the entrance to the basilica.





When we arrive, the right-side nave leading to the Grotto of the Nativity (where Jesus is said to have been born, according to the current consensus—though this spot bears no resemblance to the stable described in the oldest texts) is packed with pilgrims waiting in line. The queue isn’t moving at all; there must be over two hours’ wait. We give up and head to the far end of the left nave to find the entrance to the underground chapels of St. Jerome, St. Joseph, and the Holy Innocents, which we can explore in complete peace.





The central nave is lined with two rows of marble columns, on which apostles have been painted.



Above the columns, Crusader-era mosaics—recently restored—depict various scenes.



We leave the basilica fairly quickly to retrieve our bus, cross back through Jerusalem, and head toward Jericho and the Mount of Temptation. After a short queue, the cable car ride gives us a view of the semi-troglodyte Orthodox monastery perched on the cliffside since the 6th century (rebuilt in the 19th century). I manage to capture it with my telephoto lens through the scratched Plexiglas windows of the cable car.





Unfortunately, the heat is overwhelming, and we decide not to climb up to the monastery.

Instead, we settle for admiring the view from the Temptation Restaurant. The temptation is pretty limited when you see today’s buffet—decent but very basic. After lunch, we’ll head back toward Jericho—more to come!

After lunch at the Temptation Hostel, our driver took us at our request to Hisham’s Palace, the ruins of a palace built in the 7th century by Caliph Hisham ben Abed El-Malik. Right away, we were charmed by the original six-pointed star, known as the Star of Jericho, standing in the middle of the palace ruins. It must have adorned a monumental gate.





The heart of this site is the large and elegant dome that the Japanese built over a unique set of well-preserved mosaics, covering 850 m² of what were once the baths.





The mosaics are particularly beautiful.



The two most stunning are the central mosaic



and the famous Tree of Life mosaic (the two gazelles grazing peacefully on the right) and death (the lion devouring the gazelle on the left).



We also admired the beautiful capitals along the way.



It was a fantastic visit, despite the heat that made us give up on going further. We headed back to Jerusalem, admiring the stunning suspension bridge designed by Spanish architect Calatrava. A single pylon, held up by 90 cables, supports the entire weight of this curved bridge, which makes the engineering calculations incredibly complex. As we approached Jerusalem, a massive traffic jam brought us to a halt, and it took an hour to cover the last three kilometers—something that didn’t improve our already grumpy driver’s mood. To avoid an extra detour, we got out 400 meters from our hotel in a hurry, which led me to leave behind a case with an SD card containing some of the day’s photos. All I had left were the ones taken on my smartphone, which aren’t as good. We had dinner in the pedestrian area near our hotel, where the atmosphere was lively.



Before heading to the Citadel to watch the sound and light show that Voyageurs du Monde kindly added to our itinerary. More on that in my next post.

The sound and light show depicts the evolution of Jerusalem through the ages, highlighting periods of prosperity, successive occupations, and darker times.















Aesthetically, it’s a really well-done show. On the way back, we pass by buildings where residents are enjoying the spectacle of the crowd.



Further on, worshippers are ending their day (including three wearing *schtreimels*, fur hats).



As we walk back through the Mamilla shopping arcade, we’re surprised to see it quite busy, with lots of people making purchases at the end of Shabbat. A great day, brightened by the visit to Hisham’s Palace and the sound and light show—despite the disappointment of Bethlehem..

Day of May 28th We drop off the car at Hertz. A moment of uncertainty when the receptionist starts photographing the numerous scratches and dents on the car. I show him the photos I took as a precaution when we picked it up, which immediately puts an end to his inspection. At the nearby gas station, we manage to flag down a taxi that takes us to Yad Vashem, the World Holocaust Remembrance Center.

This vast center, spanning several hectares, brings together images, testimonies of what was the largest holocaust of the modern era, monuments to the memory of those who fought, and a study center. We walk down the Avenue of the Righteous (in memory of all those who saved Jews) to the Children’s Memorial, then to the Pillar of Heroism and the great Hall of Remembrance, an imposing basalt building whose darkness is striking. The names of the main Nazi extermination camps are engraved on the floor. From there, we move on to the art museum, which features works created during the Holocaust, sometimes in the camps. You can sense a desire to cling to a normal life, despite the context.

At the exit, a heavy downpour discourages us from exploring further in the park, and we skip the railway car and the Wall of Remembrance to take refuge in the main museum, which traces the history of the Holocaust. Even though we know the numbers and are fairly familiar with the facts (given my age), the way it’s presented here really shakes you, and we come out feeling a bit shell-shocked. A long, deeply moving visit—definitely not the mood for taking photos. Still in the rain, we head by taxi to the Israel Museum. The entrance gallery is already a work of art.

We feel the need for a break and have lunch at the museum’s restaurant, in a very pleasant setting with a great quality-to-price ratio. Inside the museum, we find such a wealth of exhibits that we can only visit part of it. The archaeological section starts with terracotta sarcophagi of exceptional beauty.





The ethnic collections are also remarkable.















Here’s a quick rundown of the ethnic section in ten photos—the rest to follow.

Next, we visit the contemporary painting exhibition featuring major works by Picasso,



Léger, Braque, Magritte,



Derain (L'Estaque has changed a lot since that era)

extending all the way to Basquiat.



It's a museum of exceptional richness, though, like the one in Tel Aviv, you can tell it was organized around donations rather than clear themes. We continue with the sculpture garden,





then the Shrine of the Book, a stunning circular building housing the Dead Sea Scrolls, some of which date back to the 3rd century BCE.





The end of a very busy day, but more to come for the evening/

To wrap up the day spent at the Holocaust Museum and Memorial, we had dinner at the Mamilla Hotel’s rooftop. The service was plentiful but inefficient—our aperitifs were served *after* the main dishes, for example [:P]. This gave us plenty of time to admire the stunning view of the illuminated ramparts[:)].



We enjoyed the view a little longer on our way back to the hotel, taking the scenic route.



A very full day

To finish off the day spent at the Holocaust museum and memorial, we dine at the Mamilla Hotel’s rooftop. The service is plentiful but inefficient—our aperitifs were served *after* the main dishes [:P]. This gave us plenty of time to admire the stunning view of the illuminated ramparts[:)]. A very full day

Great choice with the Mamilla rooftop. Well located.

About the aperitifs served after the main dishes:

You may have noticed there are no French-style "bistros" in Israel. And at restaurants, no one orders aperitifs to start the meal—it’s a concept they’re not familiar with.

For a fun anecdote, during our first trips in the 2000s, we encountered some amusing situations. One day, we ordered two glasses of white wine on a terrace. They brought us two huge wine glasses filled three-quarters of the way! Enough to quench your thirst. Similarly, if you ordered a bottle of wine at the table, it was served at room temperature! In the middle of summer, that’s a problem! In 2022, at the old train station, we ordered a bottle of white wine with a bit of apprehension, but it was served in an ice bucket, with the ice properly replenished regularly. The place was run by people of Russian origin. Coincidence? Who knows.

As for us, there are quite a few pizzerias with Italian wines that are served properly by the waitstaff. But not always.

Despite the vineyards in Israel and the lack of religious prohibition, they still struggle with wine. But things are starting to change! The evenings at Mahane Yehuda Market are well-lubricated!

On the other hand, the young crowd knows their beer!

May 29th It’s our last morning, and we spend it strolling on foot through the Nahalat Shiv'a neighborhood, behind the hotel. It’s fascinating because it was one of the first areas where Jews settled outside the walls of the Old City. Slated for demolition to build large housing complexes, it was saved by collective efforts, and most of it has been preserved. The majority is now pedestrian zones, creating a very pleasant atmosphere.







Graffiti artists had a blast in the neighborhood.







You’ll also find beautiful art shops here.







And relaxed locals.



Next, we transfer to the airport, arriving four hours early—which isn’t too much, since it takes us two and a half hours to check in :(. We have to queue because we couldn’t check in online; El Al’s website kept freezing during the process :( :(. Contrary to what we were told, it’s not security checks causing this mess—most passengers get through those in minutes—but El Al’s poor organization. Only 7 check-in counters are open, even though there are 15 El Al flights departing per hour at this time, meaning 2,200 to 2,500 people to process—over 300 per counter!! No mercy for families with young kids or elderly passengers :(. Yet, a women’s sports team gets to skip the line :P. Either way, we still make it to the gate with plenty of time since the flight is delayed by an hour. When we board, the staff doesn’t bother hurrying things along, letting groups block the aisle while they debate who prefers the window seat. There’s no flight attendant in the aisles to help people (including solo moms with three kids) with their luggage or speed up the boarding process. It takes 35 minutes—quite a record for a Boeing 737. There’s not even a safety demo :(. On board, the service is the same as on the way there: a quarter-liter of water and a disgusting corned beef sandwich :(. We land in Marseille over an hour late, and the baggage handlers add to the delay by taking 35 minutes to deliver our luggage. Just little travel hiccups :) :) :).

Trip summary: This trip allowed us to experience places and situations that will never be the same again due to the October 7 attacks and the events that followed. We wanted to share this modest account as tourists because these twelve days were overall excellent, except for the outing to Bethlehem and Jericho, which was a bit disappointing. The organization by Voyageurs du Monde met all our requests, and the two guides in Tel Aviv and Jerusalem were outstanding. In twelve days, you leave a lot behind—we’d have loved to spend more time in Acre and Jerusalem in particular, but we were constrained by time. We discovered exceptional places, Jerusalem first and foremost, but also Beit She’an, Masada, Hisham’s Palace, among others.

A few thoughts on specific points: Driving: Driving was no problem. The roads we took were in good condition. Drivers mostly respect speed limits, so traffic flows smoothly at roughly the same speed. The only gripe: they honk at the car in front a tenth of a second after the light turns green.

Restaurants: You need to book ahead at restaurants, or risk being turned away. The ONTOPO smartphone app helped once we figured it out. Restaurants are very expensive unless you stick to street food, which is more affordable. We loved the dining style—multiple varied dishes placed in the middle of the table for everyone to share. It’s very convivial. Restaurants mostly serve Israeli wine, which they enthusiastically praise. At 10 € a glass, we’ve had better. As Mitch put it, ** **

We’d been warned that service in restaurants and hotels wasn’t always top-notch. That proved true in many cases (though not in the establishments recommended by Voyageurs du Monde). Smiles are often missing, and the organization sometimes shows surprising unprofessionalism. There are often many servers, but their work pace is quite slow. At a large brasserie in Jerusalem, we had to leave after 10 minutes without ordering because the waiters were busy sorting menu pages right in front of us, ignoring us, and the hostess who’d seated us had vanished without taking our order. At another bar where we were the only customers, it took a quarter of an hour to get two coffees. Two servers were there, but they were busy with tasks more important than serving a customer. At the Mamilla Hotel, a luxury restaurant, they served our aperitif *after* the main course, etc...

Urban planning: In Tel Aviv, architectural and urban planning choices make the city pleasant (with the bonus of great beaches). We appreciated the smart measures to preserve remarkable old buildings. We were also impressed by the security features in new buildings: underground bomb shelters, airtight safe rooms in every apartment. In Jerusalem, the requirement to use Jerusalem stone—a light limestone—for all construction has preserved a beautiful uniformity in the facades. Outside these two cities, buildings are often ugly, especially in newer neighborhoods that completely lack greenery, which the climate and soil conditions don’t make easy. Signs are generally in two languages: Hebrew and English. For signs only in Hebrew, we used the Web Translator smartphone app, which instantly translates text from photos.

Christianity, history, and tourism: At all the Christian sites, we encountered crowds of pilgrims on bus tours visiting Capernaum, Tabgha, the Mount of Temptation, Bethlehem, and Jerusalem—even though many of these holy sites have no proven historical or archaeological basis. It feels like a circuit designed to focus pilgrims’/tourists’ attention on places without evidence that the corresponding events actually happened there. The Via Dolorosa is a prime example: the number and location of stations have changed over the years before the current doctrine prevailed. Of course, if they told visitors, “It happened somewhere around here,” they’d be less motivated. A striking example is the Stone of Anointing, which is the center of an elaborate spectacle. The conflict-ridden co-management of holy sites by various Christian churches is downright surreal and would be laughable if the potential consequences of missteps weren’t so serious.

I hope everyone reading this post gets to retrace this journey in peace one day, and I’d like to thank Mitch for providing more precise and interesting details than mine.

Day of May 29th I hope all those reading this post can one day redo the same trip in peace, and I’d like to thank Mitch for sharing some really helpful and more detailed info than mine.

Thank you all.

My small contribution comes from the fact that I often go there. And like you, I love getting off the beaten path—especially in Jerusalem. It’s true that in 12 days, you can only cover the essentials. At least you did it, and there’s still so much left to see...

As for restaurants, nothing new to report! Nothing changes! You really need to be a local to get good service. It can be really frustrating, I get it. Even for street food and falafel, there are magical spots. Just look for the line—like the guy making falafel at Damascus Gate in Jerusalem’s Old City walls. A must-try!

I’m surprised by EL AL’s behavior. Though I should mention I always pick my seats when booking. It costs more, sure, but at least there are no issues. And yeah, EL AL’s food is terrible—we can all agree on that. But for COVID, they kept our seats with a 25% bonus for two tickets, which made the next ones practically free. EL AL was pretty solid on that point.

I hope you get to go back. It’s a tough country but so rich in history.

For my part, this year I’ll be spending three weeks in August with EL AL: one week at the Dan Boutique Hotel in Jerusalem, five days in the Judean Desert at Nofei Prat with friends, and we’ll finish the rest up north in Shaqed, also with friends. Hopefully, the Golan will be accessible so I can at least enjoy some red wine therapy! [;)]

Thanks for sharing your story. See you in Jerusalem soon.