De temps à autre on entend parler de coyotes et de leurs méfaits, récemment le cas d'un chien poursuivi par la ''doggie door'' et tué dans la maison de ses maîtres. Pourquoi de plus en plus d'incidents?
Eléments de réponse….
Qui n’a entendu parler de la Conquête de l’Ouest, au-delà du Mississipi, avec comme repères majeurs la guerre contre le Mexique (1846-1848) et à son terme l’établissement des Etats du Nouveau Mexique et de l’Arizona dans l’Union (1912) mais qui sait qu’en même temps que cette conquête venait à son terme, en catimini, souvent nocturnement, une autre se mettait en mouvement, à marches forcées, en sens inverse : la conquête de l’Est par Canis latrans mieux connu de vous et moi sous le nom de coyote !
Dans la dernière quinzaine d’années les chercheurs se sont intéressés de près au sujet et l’an dernier 2018, une étude vient d’être publiée qui résume enfin cette étonnante histoire !
J’ai toujours trouvé l’aventure ( en particulier l’aventure urbaine) du coyote fascinante , elle montre oû peut mener son étonnante capacité d’adaptation à la faveur de la rupture par l’homme d’un équilibre naturel historique... celui que maintenait son principal prédateur, le loup. La quasi élimination du loup dans beaucoup de régions a en effet sans aucun doute grandement favorisé le développement du coyote.
Bien qu’il ait souvent été pris pour cible, gratuitement, pour le ‘’sport’’, dans le cadre de programmes de contrôle de leur population, pour protéger bétail et voisinage etc... et que des dizaines de milliers d’individus aient été abattus dans les dernières décennies il a réussi au cours des derniers cent ans à, conquérir un vaste nouveau domaine au terme d’une migration certes amorcée au XVIIIème siècle mais incroyablement accélérée depuis 1900.
J’avais, il y a quelque temps, posté un autre billet sur l’étonnant retour de l’ours noir sur son aire historique :
L'étonnant retour de l'ours noir
et bien le coyote a fait beaucoup mieux que simplement regagner le terrain perdu. Pour la première fois depuis 10 000 ans et en un peu plus d’un siècle il a colonisé la totalité du continent, franchi le canal de Panama et a été repéré par cameras automatiques en train de pénétrer la Région du Darién , porte du continent Sud Américain par la Colombie
Vers l’Est et surtout le Nord Est ( Nouvelle Angleterre, Québec, Nouvelle Ecosse...) est apparu au gré de son avance le coywolf une nouvelle espèce animale hybride issue du loup et du coyote, ….
…. doté d’une plus grande masse corporelle (+40%) d’une plus forte mâchoire et de plus de puissance que le coyote ‘’ordinaire’’.
Cette évolution physique le rend maintenant redoutable pour le reste de la faune, les animaux domestiques et même certains humains.
L’ironie de l’histoire , comme je lai dit plus haut, c’est que, au départ ce sont les projets d’éradication du loup, le mortel ennemi du coyote qui a permis à ce dernier de se répandre librement en prenant sa place . Une fois encore l’équilibre naturel bousculé par l’homme a finit par générer un nouveau déséquilibre !
Au cours de la Préhistoire et de la période historique le coyote était un animal des Prairies, des déserts du Sud Ouest et des Plateaux du Nord-Ouest. C’est comme tel qu’il a été perçu par les Amérindiens puis qu’il est devenu une icône de l’Ouest aux yeux des Américains. Qui n’est pas familier avec l’image du canidé hurlant à la lune ! Qui ne connaît pas Bip Bip et Coyote
Notons en passant que le personnage ne rend pas justice au coyote, beaucoup plus malin que çà comme d’ailleurs la tradition amérindienne le dit bien.
Dans les traditions orales amérindiennes il avait en effet acquis une dimension mythique et même mythologique exprimée dans de nombreuses légendes et contes.. Mais ceci ne concernait que les Indiens du Sud Ouest (Navajos en particulier), ceux des Prairies et ceux des Plateaux du Nord Ouest . On n’en trouve pas trace, pour autant que je sache, dans les légendes transmises par les Indiens de la taiga, de la forêt caduque orientale et de la côte Atlantique
Personnage mythique dans la tradition ancestrale Navajo Coyote a maintenu sa présence dans l’expression artistique actuelle de diverses manières.
Un exemple…
… traditionnellement les motifs des tapis navajos les ‘’navajo rugs’’ étaient relativement codifiés en un certain nombre de styles géométriques, de représentations de leurs ‘’Holy People’’ sortes de prêtres, dans les motifs des Yei rugs ou encore de cérémonies, souvent des danses ou la visite à un ‘’medicine man’’ dans les motifs des yeibichai rugs .
Est apparu un peu avant les années 40 le style Pictorial, par définition libre, décrivant des scènes de la vie courante contemporaine, avec par exemple des automobiles ou racontant des histoires . Un peu plus tard dans les années 1990 une vieille dame, devenue elle-même incapable de tisser eu l’idée de s’inspirer des mythes de son peuple et c’est sa fille, Margaret Cody ( !) qui exploita, avec succès, l’idée comme avec ce rug dont j’ai fais l’acquisition à Sedona il y a une dizaine d’années. On y voit un sorcier néfaste du folklore navajo, une sorte de
Wendigo, le Skin-walker recouvert d’une peau de coyote, pratiquer sa magie funeste alors que dans le fond d’autres coyotes hurlent à la lune… qui fait triste mine (je crois bien que Garland’s à Sedona a conservé l’exclusivité des rugs de Margaret Cody)
Donc en même temps que les Américains achevaient la conquête de l’Ouest au tout début des années 1900, la coyote trouvant le champ libre du fait de la décimation du loup, accélérait son mouvement de conquête, dans la forêt boréale au Nord, la forêt pluviale à l’Ouest, la forêt tropicale au Sud et surtout la forêt tempérée à feuilles caduques à l’Est. Dans l’Ohio le premier coyote fut repéré en 1919, dans l’État de New York dans les années 30 , en Caroline du Nord vers 1949 et ainsi de suite….En 1960 il atteint le Nouveau Brunswick. La carte ci-dessous résume la chronologie de son arrivée dans les Maritimes depuis le Québec jusqu’à jusqu’à l’île du Cap Breton atteint par le franchissement à la nage du Détroit de Canso
Deux Universitaires de Caroline du Nord – oû on n’avait jamais vu l’ombre d’un coyote avant 1950 - ont décidé d‘analyser le phénomène. L’an dernier (2018) ils ont publié ce document qui fait appel aux ressources de scientifiques de plusieurs disciplines :
(PDF) Mapping the expansion of coyotes (Canis latrans) across North …
Deux cartes de synthèse résument toute l’affaire :
- la première illustre de manière flagrante comment sur 10000 ans et jusqu’en 1899 le coyote est resté en dehors des forêts du Continent,
- la seconde montre, depuis 1900, la progression fulgurante du coyote au travers des forêts jusqu’à ce qu’il arrive à la côte Atlantique
Les mêmes Universitaires ont aussi réalisé cette courte video qui dramatise l’aventure :
How Coyotes Conquered the Continent
Mais le coyote ne s’est contenté d’investir forêts et terres agricoles il a en même temps, très opportuniste, développé un goût pour le milieu urbain et le résultat c’est que…
… de Vancouver à Montréal, Percé en Gaspésie, de Seattle à Cincinatti, Chicago, New-York, Pittsburg, Roanoke, Washington, Charlotte, Atlanta, Macon , Birmingham , Albuquerque , Phoenix, San Francisco, Los Angeles, etc.… etc.... les coyotes visitent les villes et parfois s’y installent.
Depuis une petite vingtaine d’années et surtout la dernière décennie les études se multiplient donc sur la progression du Coyote urbain , un des cas les plus médiatisés étant peut-être celui des coyotes de NY (articles de revues, TV etc...)
C’est d’ailleurs dans l’État de New York qu’une étude vraiment détaillée a documenté la progression étonnante du canidé depuis son arrivée dans les Monts Adirondacks dans les années 30 pour arriver au Bronx et à Manhattan dans les années 90 et apparemment s’y maintenir :
Coyote sightings in NYC surging with 35 spotted this year
La carte ci-dessous montre, par tranches de 5 ans, comment le coyote s’est installé dans l ‘Etat, c’est plutôt spectaculaire:
Cette autre carte de 2012 extraite de Coyote ( Canis latrans ), 100+ Years in the East: A Literature Review synthétise les résultats d’observations dans plus d’une centaine de villes des Etats Unis par des Universitaires et des gens de USDA de l’Utah
dit en passant, si vous croisez des Montagne des Pyrénées en Utah ou ailleurs c’est la faute au coyote, on y utilise en effet de plus en plus le Patou pour garder le coyote au large puisque c’est lui qui est devenu le premier prédateur des brebis en lieu et place du loup
La réalité c’est que de plus en plus de villes, grandes ou moins grandes, ont un Coyote project ( ex : Atlanta Coyote Project ), sortent une appli, une carte interactive ou quelque autre registre pour tenir à jour et gérer la progression du canidé.
Pour savoir si une ville est concernée et comment elle l’est par la progression de l’intrépide il suffit de taper (par exemple) :
nom de la ville…. coyote
Suite des "Rencontres insolites avec des grizzlys, chercheurs d'or et autres dans l'Ouest Américain" (26 février 2009)
Tres interessant cette histoire des coyotes dans l'est. Il y a quelques mois au bord du Chesapeake & Ohio Canal a Washington DC, moins de 2 km du quartier Georgetown, J'ai vu 2 cerfs adultes suivis par un petit faon qui ont tous couru rapidement, suivis par un coyote a la poursuite. Le coyote s'est arrete lorqu'il m'a vu.
Voici un video qui parle du succes des coyotes a Chicago. (Je ne sais pas s'il est possible de regarder cette video en dehors des USA.) Selon le scientifique dans la video, on trouve maintenant des coyotes dans toutes les quartiers de Chicago, meme dans le centre-ville.
Les scientifiques ont determine que meme dans le centre-ville, au moins la moitie du regime alimentaire du coyote provenait de sources naturelles (par exemple, de lapins), et non de sources humaines.
elle est tout à fait instructive et grâce aux ''whiskers'' elle rend le sujet encore plus étonnant : le coyote tirerait donc autant sa subsistance de la petite faune qui vit en ville que des déchets de la consommation humaine . Un double adaptation à la ville en quelque sorte et un contrôle naturel des lapins .
Mais cela reste toujours surprenant étonnant de voir cet animal que l’on associait naturellement aux grands espaces du Sud Ouest se balader en pleine ville, à son aise..🙂.
Suite des "Rencontres insolites avec des grizzlys, chercheurs d'or et autres dans l'Ouest Américain" (26 février 2009)
Les animaux sauvages investissent de plus en plus les espaces urbains (forcément, puisque ceux-ci n’arrêtent pas de s’étendre) : mrmondialisation.org/...odiversite-en-ville/
En Amérique, il y a aussi, notamment, le problème des ratons-laveurs, qui se multiplient et saccagent les poubelles en ville. A tel point qu’il a fallu concevoir des poubelles spéciales contre la « Racoon Nation » 🙂 :
quebec.huffingtonpost.ca/...elles_n_7035376.html
Le problème va vraisemblablement se poser aussi en Europe : certains ont eu l’idée de créer des fermes d’élevage (pour la fourrure). Il y a évidemment des ratons-laveurs qui se sont échappés et qui depuis, prolifèrent. On les trouve maintenant dans plusieurs pays d’Europe, ce qui n’est pas sans impact sur la faune locale. Le Conseil de l'Europe a d'ailleurs classé le raton-laveur dans la liste des espèces invasives. Encore un exemple de plus du bouleversement des milieux naturels par l’homme !
Bonjour et merci car j'ai pris grand plaisir a lire ce sujet
🙂
www.pbs.org/...ure-coyote-comeback/
Belle vidéo, belles images urbaines (merci à Aquilegia)
qui m'ont fait souvenir d'une de mes meilleures lectures catégorie polars
Michael Connelly, Le dernier coyote :
Le 1° extrait est un peu surannée par rapport au reportage
L.A
J'ai vu un coyote hier soir. Près de chez moi.
Je.... J'étais ivre, sans doute, mais je suis sur de l'avoir vu.
_ Pourquoi est-ce si important pour vous?
Il essaya de formuler la réponse appropriée.
-Je ne sais pas... Ils ne sont plus très nombreux à vivre dans les collines. Près de chez moi, en tous cas. Alors, chaque fois que j'en vois un, je me dis que c'est peut-être le dernier. Vous comprenez? Le dernier coyote. Et je crois que ça me ferait de la peine si c'était vrai, si je n'en revoyais plus jamais.
De nouveau, il rêva du coyote. L'animal marchait sur un sentier au sommet des collines, là où il n'y avait ni maisons, ni voitures, ni êtres humains. Il se déplaçait très vite dans l'obscurité, comme s'il essayait de s'enfuir. Mais Bosch était chez lui et connaissait le terrain. Il s'avait que l'animal parviendrait à s'échapper. La chose qu'il cherchait à fuir n'était jamais très claire, jamais visible. Mais elle était là, derrière lui dans le noir. Et le coyote savait, par instinct, qu'il devait fuir.
C’est vrai que le raton laveur peut être aussi envahissant…
dans le crawl space ( sorte de vide sanitaire mais pas vraiment, vraiment fermé à un raton-laveur ) d’une maison que j’avais loué pendant un an dans une autre vie un de ces squatters avait établi ses quartiers d’hiver… mais il était plutôt sympa et pas gênant du tout (pas anxiogène comme la moufette!)
le coyote aussi a suscité certaines contre-mesures…inattendues
…..si en vous baladant en Californie ou ailleurs vous tombez sur un petit chien ainsi ‘’vêtu’’
ce n’est pas pour halloween ou une dog-party mais c’est parce que son maître à souhaiter le protéger d’une attaque de coyote.
Collection 2019 : gilet en kevlar, renforcé d’épis d’acier à la gorge et sur le dos. En option :garniture d’épis de nylon pour faire paraître le chien plus gros qu’il ne l’est et perturber le prédateur potentiel
L’ histoire est la suivante : il y a quelques années Paul Mott un ingénieur de San Diego promenait son petit chien quand un coyote a surgi, saisi la pauvre bête et l’a emporté pour la dévorer. Choqué par l ‘attaque Paul Mott a mis au point une dog body armor particulière …
en savoir plus : Not Today, Coyote – CoyoteVest
à côté de cette haute couture du gilet canin anti-coyote nos gilets anti-sangliers sont bien sobres. Il est vrai qu’ils n’ont pas tout à fait la même fonction !
Suite des "Rencontres insolites avec des grizzlys, chercheurs d'or et autres dans l'Ouest Américain" (26 février 2009)
Hi everyone, just this once I’m not posting for a travel story, but to share a thought for Venezuela.
If you didn’t know—since it’s not making headlines—the country was hit by two 7.5-magnitude earthquakes last week. Over 2,200 people have died, more than 50,000 are missing, and some coastal towns have been completely destroyed.
Maybe when the scale of the humanitarian crisis becomes clear, our media will cover it a bit more... especially since earthquakes with this many casualties usually make the front page, but there’s been nothing in France.
So here’s a thought for this country, which, whatever you think of its politics, is a true jewel of South America, both for its landscapes and its people.
hi there
I’d like to invite you to discover my coastal province in central Vietnam: Quang Ngai.
This year, my province has really improved its infrastructure—mountains, countryside, and sea are all authentic here.
No harassers or thieves, and no Russians either.
A local lunch costs around 1 €.
A *** hotel room is about 25 €, and you can find hotels right on My Khe Beach.
We have a specialty: *banh xeo*—10 crepes for just 1.5 €.
You can rent motorbikes to explore the province and maybe visit the many ethnic minorities.
I live here—I’m not selling anything, but I can help if needed (my father-in-law is a traditional Vietnamese doctor and he’s very skilled).
Hi everyone! 😉
I’m Typhaine, 35 years old. Five years ago, I left France for a solo round-the-world trip—no planes, just a van, hitchhiking, cycling, and even a canoe in the Amazon! Today, I work as a naturalist guide in Argentine Patagonia.
Wherever I go, my compass stays the same: observing and photographing wildlife, which I deeply admire and respect.
My project: I’d love to share this experience through a sustainable, authentic, and immersive nature tourism initiative. But to build something meaningful, I need to understand how other nature enthusiasts experience their own adventures.
If you:
Are over 20 years old
Have a true passion for Nature
Have already taken at least one trip lasting more than 3 nights (in your country or abroad) in your life
Promise: I’m not selling anything, this isn’t marketing. Your answers are 100% anonymous and will only help me shape this wild project.
A huge thank you to everyone for your help and kindness! Looking forward to chatting in this thread 😛
(Dear admins, this is purely a collaborative effort for my project study, with no commercial purpose. Thank you so much for your support!)
Photo: Grizzly Bear (Ursus arctos horribilis), female on the left and her cub on the right. Photo taken by me in Alaska, Denali National Park.
It’s something we often notice in this forum—and many others—this behavioral shift.
A long-time member, or even a new one, asks a question.
They get one or more answers, some brief, some detailed, and then... nothing???
Not even a simple thank you!!!
From what I’ve gathered, if the answers don’t align with what they wanted to hear, it seems natural for the asker to just disappear!! 😕
Unless—(and I fear this is the case)—basic politeness is no longer part of our society????
I spent 3 weeks in Bali last summer (+ 3 nights on Gili Meno and a day trip to Kawah Ijen in Java). So I wanted to see what ChatGPT could suggest for comparison...
Here’s the prompt I gave:
"You’re a local expert guide for Bali.
- Plan a 20-day itinerary for Bali with a side trip to Gili Meno and a day trip to Kawah Ijen in Java without staying overnight.
- I’m traveling with my wife, and I love visiting historical sites, hiking, relaxing at the beach, snorkeling, and exploring rice terraces...
- For the duration of the stay, I don’t want more than 8 places to sleep, and I’d like to stay at least 2 days at each stop to avoid unpacking too often. Except for the last night, where I’m okay with just one night near the airport.
- I prefer neighborhoods that are walkable and try to avoid typical tourist traps, though I don’t want to miss the must-see spots. So suggest a mix of iconic sites and hidden gems.
- Recommend hotels or guesthouses with a budget of 50 to 100 € per night, including breakfast. Make suggestions in areas popular with travelers, specifying the vibe (I prefer quiet), and consider safety and proximity to attractions.
- For lunch and dinner, suggest two to three restaurants that are well-rated by customers.
- Give me a day-by-day program with details on travel times, visiting times for each point of interest, and recommendations for transportation (taxi, train, bike, etc.).
Estimate the total cost of the trip, including accommodations, food, transportation, and activities, and suggest two tips for saving money in each category.
- Don’t make anything up—be realistic about travel times, take into account the opening dates and hours of sites, and give me the entry fees for places to visit.
- Ask me all the questions until you’re 95% sure you understand what’s being asked. Don’t generate your response until you’ve understood."
The AI asked for a few clarifications:
"Great request—I can build you a really optimized and enjoyable itinerary, but to be 95% sure I hit the mark, I need a few key clarifications (this will really influence the pace, areas, and accommodations)."
In the end, it proposed a program very close to what we actually did.
I’ll skip its accommodation and restaurant suggestions...
Its proposal:
"Ubud (4 nights) => we did 5 nights
Sidemen (2 nights)
Amed (3 nights) => we’d planned 2 nights
Gili Meno (3 nights) => we did Gili between Sidemen and Amed
Munduk (3 nights) => we did 2 nights before Pemuteran
Pemuteran (3 nights) with Ijen => we did 4 nights
Sanur (2 nights + 1 last night) => we chose Jatiluwih instead of Sanur
It suggested "activities" (and accommodations too):
IN UBUD:
- Walk around central Ubud (1–2h)
- Campuhan Ridge Walk
- Tegalalang Rice Terrace
- Tirta Empul
- Gunung Kawi
- Massage / market / slow café
IN SIDEMEN:
- Rice terrace hike (2–3h)
- Cooking class
IN AMED:
- Snorkeling
- Japanese Shipwreck
- Beach + relaxation
- Volcano sunset
ON GILI:
- Snorkeling at Gili Meno Turtle Point, Nest Underwater Statues
IN MUNDUK:
- Jungle & waterfall hike - Munduk Waterfall + Melanting Waterfall
- Loop: 3–4h (perfect for your level)
- Ulun Danu Bratan Temple
- Twin Lakes
IN PEMUTERAN
- Snorkeling: Menjangan Island
For Kawah Ijen, it detailed the day well:
👍 from Pemuteran = best possible option
12 PM: leave hotel (we left at 10 PM)
1 PM: ferry
3 PM: arrival in Java + transfer
11 PM: start ascent
2 AM–6 AM: volcano
Return to Bali around 11 AM–12 PM (we got back at 4 PM)
👍 still very intense, but doable with an agency
💰 ~80–120 €/person all-inclusive
IN SANUR:
- Relaxation
- Quiet beach
- Proximity to airport (30 min)"
I’ve kept the habit of blowing my nose in the sink and then washing my hands—a custom I picked up in India. Sometimes, non-travelers are shocked when they catch me in the act... 🤪
Also, when I run out of toilet paper, it doesn’t bother me—unless I’ve got company over... 🤪
Just got back from walking a friend’s dog (while they’re on vacation), wearing a djellaba and Tibetan boots... 😏😏😏 Oh, for sure, if I’d run into locals, I probably would’ve shocked them? 😏
Anyway, as long as I’m not spitting on the floor at a restaurant or squatting on the side of a highway with a water bottle in hand...
After taking a little trip around the world, I came back a few months ago with an idea in mind.
I mostly do diving, and I love observing animals in their natural habitat without disturbing them.
During the trip, I realized it was quite complicated to know where and when to see certain species.
For example:
where to dive with sharks or manta rays
where you might get a chance to swim with whales
I even discovered thresher sharks during my trip… I didn’t even know this species existed before, even though they’re incredible to see.
We spent a ton of time searching for info all over the place, especially on social media, without ever getting a clear picture.
So I started putting all this together on my own, in the form of a map, to make it easier to visualize where to go depending on the seasons.
I recently put a first version online (it’s called Fauneya).
There are probably mistakes, inconsistencies, or things to improve, and that’s partly why I’m posting here.
I’d really love to know how you all go about planning this kind of trip.
As part of my Master’s thesis, I’m currently conducting a public survey on a topic that concerns all of us when planning a trip: artificial intelligence and the role of human contact in travel planning.
These days, we’re using more and more digital tools to find ideas, compare options, and book trips... but is the role of human advisors still essential? At what moments? And for what types of trips?
The survey is anonymous and takes about 7 minutes.
It’s aimed at anyone who travels (or has traveled) for leisure, whether you plan everything yourself or go through an agency.
While browsing the forum to gather info for my upcoming trip to Thailand, I often see the terms "traveler," "great traveler," and also "tourist"—so what’s the nuance for you?
I've traveled quite a bit in Vietnam over the past few years—from the southern delta to bustling cities and even some small islands—but what really sticks with me is the north, the high mountains.
Up there, there's something different—maybe slower, more raw. The morning markets with ethnic groups, women in traditional clothes, the colors...
The stilt houses, kids following you and laughing for no reason, the terraced rice fields—it almost feels unreal at times, so vast and quiet, yet so human and simple.
You often hear that Sapa has become too touristy, and that's partly true, especially in the center. But as soon as you move a little farther away, everything changes quickly. The landscapes open up, encounters feel more natural, and you rediscover something truly authentic.
I think it's that contrast that struck me—the difference between what you imagine before going and what you actually discover when you take the time.
And you—what memory do you hold onto from Vietnam? A particular place that touched you more than others?
Hello,
We’re finalizing the plans for our upcoming trip to China in May 2025. The second-to-last stop will be in Zhangjiajie, where we’ve planned to stay for 2 full days before heading to Shanghai.
We’re traveling solo using local transport and have arranged to stay in the city of Zhangjiajie.
We’ve seen that there’s a lot to see:
Tianmen Mountain, the Grand Canyon and the glass bridge, Zhangjiajie National Park, and that the sites are quite far apart with fairly expensive entry fees.
We’re thinking of dedicating one day to the national park and the Grand Canyon (glass bridge) and one day to Tianmen Mountain.
But we’re not sure if this plan is realistic—any thoughts would be much appreciated!
I should be serving a warming drink to the participants in the discussion about gardens and parks that provide us with beautiful photos, I could mention the delicious buttery scent wafting from bakeries in the thread about returning to France, but my heart, its powerful pulse that nourishes my entire being, is elsewhere.
Dasht-e Lut, Yazd, Esfahan, Bam, Kerman, Qeshm, Hormuz—a melody, a prayer at the heart of desire.
A dream, an unattainable fantasy? No. Not anymore.
A very serious Italian travel agency is organizing this trip for 6 people this winter. I’m signed up, I’m going, I’m living. Maybe.
"But you’re completely crazy!!!!"
I know... I know that every civilization, every society has a vital need to create scapegoats to define and justify itself, pathetically. And Iran is one of them, top of the list. I laugh or sigh, and it doesn’t bother me.
But that unchanging red, deep red and garnet, so beautiful in itself, in all the Western chancelleries repeats, whispers, shouts: don’t go, don’t go, don’t go, you’re putting yourself in danger and we can’t do anything for you. You’ll be turned into mere bargaining chips, into arguments for endless negotiations. Fear must be instilled, its power absolutely preserved, no concessions made to the enemy. The information (how many French hostages, real or fake, compared to the number of travelers?) is always lacking.
Traveling becomes a merciless confrontation between desire, the vital pulse, and anxiety, its ghosts.
Hi everyone, here’s our itinerary. Arriving on the evening of December 13th. Departing on January 7th.
Thanks in advance for your tips and valuable feedback.
Manila – 1 night
Coron – 4 nights
Coron to El Nido cruise – 2 nights
El Nido – 4 nights
Port Barton – 5 nights
Flight from Puerto Princesa to Vigan
Vigan – 2 nights
Sagada – 2 nights
Banaue – 2 nights
Bagabag – 1 night
Manila – 1 night
I’ve only booked the flight to Manila and the Manila/Coron flight so far. Is it possible to book boat trips, accommodations, and the Puerto Princesa flight last-minute?
Really disappointed with Costa Rica! Pura vida? The scam of the century!
(Costa Rica pure emptiness).
The country where animals are free and people are in cages.
3 weeks in December in this country and never again. Imagine the trailer of a movie that seems interesting, and when you go see it, you realize it’s a flop and the best moments were in the trailer.
Well, that’s exactly how we felt with Costa Rica pure emptiness.
My wife and I have traveled quite a bit and didn’t expect to be so wrong about a place.
On the main routes, we visited:
San José
Alajuela
Limón, Cahuita, Puerto Viejo, Manzanillo (Caribbean side)
Jaco, Quepos, Manuel Antonio (Pacific side)
And a few short stops in intermediate towns.
Our dissatisfaction grew gradually like this:
When we arrived at the hotel, the taxi dropped us off on a small street in front of a white metal gate with ground-floor windows barred. We looked at it skeptically, but the sign matched.
He approached the gate, rang the bell, the buzzer sounded, and the door opened slightly. The hotel wasn’t bad for the price, a 10-minute walk from downtown, but with a "Fleury-Mérogis" vibe guaranteed.
So far, so good.
After showering and regaining our bearings, we headed downtown.
What started to unsettle us on the way was seeing houses with bars on the ground-floor windows and even on the second floor.
At first, we thought the hotel’s neighborhood wasn’t great.
Downtown San José:
It’s a generic city, not very exotic, with a pedestrian street and a small mercado where you can eat local food without frills. Very few tourists—if any—which let you blend in with the locals. We had lunch and struggled to make ourselves understood because, aside from one or two shops, English wasn’t spoken.
On the way back to the hotel, we took a different route, and while chatting and strolling, my wife pointed out a beautiful two-story white house completely barricaded like Fort Knox.
From that moment, we started noticing the facades of houses and buildings, and wow, it was creepy—most looked like prisons, some even with barbed wire.
Though put off, we told ourselves it was probably a big-city thing and the rest of the country couldn’t be like this.
So far, so good.
We relaxed at the hotel and had a drink at the bar. Night falls early, around 5:30 PM. By 7:30 PM, we headed back downtown for dinner. A bit unsettling for a capital—downtown was almost deserted, and aside from fast-food chains, very few restaurants were open, with hardly anyone on the streets.
Bars with security guards out front.
I won’t say we felt unsafe that night, but once it got dark, we realized the bars on the windows weren’t for nothing. First day in, and our impression was already mixed.
The next day, we explored the city and surroundings, and our feelings didn’t change.
So far, so good.
Off to Cahuita by bus—4 hours of travel.
The landscapes are very green but quickly become monotonous. The road runs alongside the forest and passes through a few towns and villages, and even in the countryside, there were just as many prison-like houses.
The bus dropped us off at Cahuita’s terminal station—only four of us got off. It’s a village, or rather, a small town. Cahuita is basically one straight road and a perpendicular one, and honestly, doubt started to creep in.
A few restaurants that add 13% tax and 10% service charge—so 23% extra. We dropped our stuff at the hotel and went to explore. In 20 minutes, we’d seen it all. We had lunch and planned to check out the famous park.
Entry is by donation—well, the "entry" is a joke. There’s a path along the forest by the sea, and that’s it.
Nothing’s going right anymore.
We thought it was a total scam, but since we hadn’t gone far, we decided to come back the next day to explore further.
We returned to the hotel, relaxed, and around 8:00 PM, we went out for dinner. Only two restaurants were open, and the streets were deserted.
Creepy!
The next day, we explored the so-called park more thoroughly and really got it.
A path along the forest by the sea—2 hours there and 2 hours back, where you see animals that feel like showing their faces.
A total joke—"all that for this?"
The beach was full of wood debris and coconut husks. We wondered if the photos online were edited because the sea, very rough, wasn’t the azure blue we’d seen in pictures.
But calling this a park is a joke—it’s like a new concept.
When we thought about the reviews online, we started to suspect that professionals with interests in the country were monitoring and countering any negative feedback that could harm their business.
Too bad we didn’t check the negative reviews beforehand—we did while we were there, and it helped. We wondered if we’d become too demanding after all our travels, but no—when something’s bad, it’s bad.
Manuel Antonio’s park is even more ridiculous—there’s a short path along the sea for about 500 meters, and then nothing. You have to climb through mud and hack your way through the forest. We ended up barefoot because the mud was up to our calves. All that to see a raccoon and a few parrots flying overhead.
We didn’t expect Noah’s Ark, but we’ve seen more animals in Bali, Mexico, and Thailand while visiting temples or just walking around than in these so-called parks!
Puerto Viejo, not far from Cahuita and supposedly livelier—well, it couldn’t be worse!
According to Lonely Planet, it had a Caribbean vibe and wild nights, but maybe that was a long time ago. The good reggae music playing everywhere isn’t enough.
In the evening, Puerto Viejo was a bit livelier than Cahuita, but that’s not saying much. Very few tourists—if any—no night market, just two or three shops open selling $20 T-shirts. Same vibe as San José.
No big deal—we enjoyed the beach and the sun, which was reliable.
Our itinerary was supposed to include Tortuguero Park, but after talking to other travelers who’d just been, we changed our minds, knowing we’d be visiting Manuel Antonio Park on the Pacific side.
To get back to the Pacific side, you have to take the bus and go through San José again—5 hours this time—then switch bus terminals and another 4.5 hours to Quepos.
A stopover town to get to Manuel Antonio’s beach and park!
A town just like the others we’d seen—deserted as soon as the sun sets, and not exactly bustling during the day either. (Where are all the tourists?)
Still as many bars on the windows and that feeling of being in the wrong place.
7 km later: Manuel Antonio beach and park.
The beach is very beautiful and quite large, but don’t expect turquoise blue water—the waves stir up the sand, giving the water a brownish color.
Along the beach, shops and restaurants for about 300 meters, and then nothing. At night, after sunset, the town shuts down too.
Manuel Antonio Park is highly praised for its wildlife, so we were eager to see it. When you express dissatisfaction with Cahuita or Manzanillo parks, the response is always, "But you should’ve gone to Monteverde or Manuel Antonio!" No matter what you do or say, they’ll tell you, "You should’ve gone there or here."
Back to our famous park—entry was about $16, and contrary to what we’d heard, it wasn’t crowded!
Guides at the entrance with spotting scopes offered their services for about $30.
The park: a mix of boardwalk and dirt paths through the forest, sometimes running alongside beautiful coves and beaches.
As soon as we entered, a crowd was taking photos of a deer eating leaves.
A little further on, a guide with a group of five stopped. The guide raised his arm and set up his spotting scope! He showed them, about 100 meters away, a hummingbird perched on a branch. Some, looking through the scope, exclaimed, "Oh my God! Amazing! Incredible!"
For a moment, we thought they’d discovered a unicorn or were in Jurassic Park and had just crossed paths with a T-Rex!
The concept is comical—looking at a bird or another animal through a spotting scope because it’s too far away. Isn’t that what TV is for?
For our part, we saw monkeys, ants, an armadillo, an iguana, and the backside of a sloth climbing a tree. Amazing, incredible!
We stayed a few days in Manuel Antonio to enjoy the beach, changing hotels often because prices varied wildly from one day to the next for shameful services. On top of that, they’d quote a price in dollars and convert it at their discretion—thieves!
Alajuela, a city near the airport, has a two-story mall and a local market downtown! No interest except its proximity to the airport.
What we liked:
The climate and, in hindsight, San José—the most authentic city we visited.
What we didn’t like, in addition to what we’ve already mentioned:
Costa Ricans aren’t very friendly or communicative. English is barely spoken, not even by doctors at Quepos Hospital, where my wife ended up with food poisoning (thanks, Google Translate). The widespread obesity among Costa Ricans, who eat like Americans. The insecurity. The eco-hipsters who leave their $150 lodges in minivans with guides to visit parks and other sites, then return to barricade themselves in their fortresses at nightfall (oh my God, amazing, incredible). The blue signs at the entrance of towns that accept this payment method: "We accept American Express." Parking lots that become paid just because a guy is watching your car. Prices displayed in dollars. The cost of living (hotels, restaurants, taxes). Landscapes that are too green and not flowery enough. Beaches—nothing exceptional. Pollution in cities where big American trucks rule. Sewage dumped directly into the sea. Aside from the jungle, there’s nothing to visit—no ruins, monuments, or anything worth seeing.
In short, my wife and I think the hype about this supposedly eco-friendly country is overrated. It’s just the trendy destination of the moment. There are much better, cheaper, and more authentic places.
In hindsight, we keep the good memories and our beautiful photos, but if we had to do it over...
Before signing off, a little message to those who don’t like hearing opinions different from theirs:
Well, some things aren’t up for debate. And to those who’d have us believe that in 3 weeks, we don’t have the right to criticize a country or express our feelings—how can you praise it in so little time? What a scam. Costa Rica is a money pit. Pura vida? Pure cosmic emptiness.
If you like spending your evenings barricaded in your cozy hotel after dark, this country is for you.
For everyone else: run!
Hello,
Since the war between Russia and Ukraine, nothing is simple anymore for traveling to Belarus due to sanctions.
No more direct flights from the EU to Minsk.
Driving is a huge hassle, especially crossing through Poland at the only open border in Brest—you can wait 2, 3, or even 4 days just to get through by car.
The least painful driving option is to come via Lithuania and cross at the only open border, with a minimum wait time of 8 hours, sometimes up to 20 hours or more!!
Controls are very strict and annoying on both the Lithuanian and Belarusian sides. Avoid bringing alcohol, food, or cigarettes—everything will end up in the trash, especially when leaving Belarus for Vilnius, where the Lithuanians are tough, even with EU citizens.
The joy I once knew when visiting my wife in Minsk is sadly over—it’s now a real ordeal.
The fastest solution is to fly. My wife travels to France by taking a bus to Kaunas in Lithuania, where you can catch a flight (though not daily) to Paris Beauvais or Charleroi in Belgium with Ryanair, for example.
For the return trip, it’s the same: a flight to Kaunas and then a direct bus from the airport to Minsk.
The bus crossing is quicker than driving—the 250 km journey, including border checks, takes about 6 to 8 hours for buses leaving Lithuania around midnight, but controls are still strict at the border.
The biggest challenge is finding flight schedules that align with the bus routes between the two countries, given the unpredictable border crossing times.
Now, my wife travels via Charleroi in Belgium (near Brussels), and you can take a train to Paris. Alternatively, you can fly into Beauvais and take a bus to Paris (Porte Maillot).
For those driving, note that EU insurance and assistance policies no longer work in Belarus or Russia. You’ll need to get local insurance, usually limited to third-party liability (I don’t think full coverage exists?), as well as mandatory medical insurance. This is available at the border.
You now have to pay highway tolls—no more BELTOLL boxes. Instead, you pay a flat fee for the duration of your stay. Stop at the first gas station after crossing from Lithuania to fill up on fuel and cigarettes.
From what I know, Lithuania bans carrying more than 60 € in cash, but there’s no limit for USD (though it’s capped at $10,000??).
With a Visa card, you can now withdraw 1,000 rubles per week (about 270 €)—two months ago, it was only 500 rubles!!
For now, you can still pay by card in shops and gas stations.
However, major retailers like KORONA (which may be Russian-owned??) no longer accept foreign Visa cards.
Unfortunately, the additional sanctions announced by the U.S. on August 5, 2025, against Russia—and possibly Belarus—aren’t promising for the future.
After 20 years of visiting Belarus, I’m truly saddened to see the joy of living in this country with my wonderful wife turn into such a bleak situation, all because of human folly.
Hi everyone!
I’m putting together our travel itinerary for Veneto at the end of April. And the more I look and research potential sites to visit, the more I find!
We’ll only be there for a week—my family and I—including 3 days in Venice. So we have to make some choices...
I plan to rent a car when we arrive in Venice and head straight to Bergamo, which would be our first stop. We’d leave the car at the airport when we return to Venice so we can explore the city at our leisure.
What do you think:
1 night in Bergamo (a 2h15 drive from Venice airport),
1 night in Garda,
1 night in Verona,
1 in Padua, and
3 in Venice—would that be doable?
Thanks in advance for your tips and experiences! :)
Now that the curtain has fallen on the past year, it’s time to see what’s happening around here.
It seems pretty quiet, but I’ll read more in detail later.
First, I need to tell you all an anecdote.
My eldest little girl, in her third year of law school, was really scared she wouldn’t pass the year.
I told her:
“Trust yourself, you’ve worked so hard, and worst case, if you fail, you’ll just redo the year.”
“But I don’t think I’ll make it—they changed the rules, and if I mess up even one unit, I have to start all over.”
I knew her grades weren’t exactly stellar, and with what I was about to say, I wasn’t taking much of a risk.
“Here’s the deal, sweetheart: if you pass, I promise I’ll take you to India, just the two of us.”
I have to admit, India is a country I’ve talked about so much to all my grandchildren that in their minds, it’s become a magical, mythical place (hmm).
July had barely begun when my phone rang, her name flashing on the screen.
“Mamido, I did it!”
My promise came rushing back—oh no, oh no, oh no!
“Congratulations, sweetheart!”
A little shyly, she said:
“Is the India trip still on?”
And me, replying:
“Of course it is!”
And that’s that—a promise is a promise, or you risk losing that precious trust that keeps hearts warm and at peace.
We’re leaving in February. Only 8 days—yikes, the carbon footprint!
But we can’t miss her tutorials, or she’ll be kicked out.
Personally, that works just fine for me.
Going to India has become a challenge for me. It’s far, it’s exhausting, I sweat, I hate mosquitoes, the spices bother my mouth when I used to love them. There’s noise all the time—at night, the dogs bark nonstop, and we almost get run over. I’ll get lost in the streets because my sense of direction has vanished. I don’t like rice anymore. All that chaos and those cultural differences that once enchanted me now just overwhelm me.
But I promised.
The upside—and it’s a big one—Raman, the same driver I’ve had forever, will be at the airport with a sign with our names. We’ll stop at the same little shop for chai (or tea, plain and simple) with that aroma that intoxicates me, halfway through the trip.
It’ll be a tiny trip—staying with friends, I’ll show her a few places I love: Chidambaram, Mamallapuram, and the clinic where I worked. Then we’ll head back.
My little girl will go home to her parents.
As for me, I’ll leave right away for our Scottish island with Homme for our chilly winter.
How can you love a country so much you want to live there, then suddenly reject it, no longer able to appreciate what once made it special?
That’s the mystery of love, I guess.
I’ve visited the U.S. four times myself, including two long road trips. The last one was just this past August...
I won’t be going back. I already felt guilty last August, but recent policies have finally convinced me: the humiliation of Zelensky, authoritarian excesses, Gestapo-like methods for detaining people of foreign origin, the murder of innocent people (a mother shot dead), corruption, insane "tariffs," skyrocketing healthcare costs for Americans, the abduction of foreign figures to secure oil, the requirement to disclose social media accounts, and now... threats and blackmail to forcibly take Greenland—a region that belongs to Denmark and thus the European Union!
The reality is that simply posting this could get me denied entry to the U.S.!
In this context, I just can’t keep spending money there. I loved my trips, but there are so many other countries with stunning landscapes to explore.
So I get why you’d want to travel there. I did, and I loved it. But once a country no longer respects any of the values that made us love it, why go?
How can we even consider traveling to a country that threatens to take one of our territories by force?
Hello everyone,
Controversial topic? Not necessarily—maybe just a reflection on a world to come.
I spent the last 15 days of August on a cruise in Greenland, from Kangerlussuaq to Tasiilaq.
I was utterly amazed by this unique world of rock and ice, the little houses in every color, a simple life that’s also complicated by isolation and climate, among other things...
I carry in my heart the kindness of the people I met, the raw and gentle majesty of the icebergs, the colors of the sky...
So, I can’t even imagine a massive presence of raw material prospectors, heavy machinery requiring roads to be built—if that’s even possible—changing their way of life... putting sled dogs out to pasture!
Do fast food and Greenland’s northern lights really mix?
I wouldn’t trade my memories for an ESTA!
All opinions are respectable, which is why this isn’t a controversy—but I’m sorry, I have a soft spot for *my* Greenland.
We’re a couple aged 58 and 63. We’ve just returned from a wonderful trip to South India in Tamil Nadu and a few days in Kerala. We traveled with a local French-speaking guide and his friend, the driver. They both live in Pondicherry. We spent 3 weeks with them in the most authentic way!
We covered just over 2,500 km and visited not only temples but also archaeological sites, museums, and small artisanal businesses making tiles, tea, sculptures, bronze, and silk spinning. We were lucky enough to visit a public school, attend a wedding, and even a death announcement in a small countryside village. We were fully immersed in the culture, food, noise, and colors—it was incredible!
The hotels and guesthouses we chose were very clean and mostly quiet. We’re returning from India with amazing discoveries!
We’re happy to share more info if you’d like!
M-Claire and Jean
This catchy and somewhat mysterious title comes from several questions I’ve been asking myself.
VF has been back open for a reasonable number of weeks and months now.
The number of visitors overall matches past averages, but the number of members online in the last 24 hours seems relatively lower than what we used to see.
Yet, to my surprise, I’m seeing fewer travel journals, way fewer messages, and way fewer questions.
I don’t see many new registered users online, and I notice a number of members who are logged in but either aren’t participating or have stopped participating.
Something’s not adding up for me because, in my opinion, VF is still appealing, and I don’t see which other sites could really compete.
Was there a real break between pre- and post-Covid?
Does it just take more time for some people to discover the site or learn that it’s active again?
Do people now prefer quick consumption on sites like FB or others I’m not familiar with?
Where have the site’s old-timers gone, and what are they doing with their time now?
What’s really going on here?
This isn’t exactly a traveler’s question... I’d like to know who handles the technical side of this forum?
I run a similar forum on a different topic (unrecognized children), and we’re dealing with a few technical issues that are slowly killing our forum... so I’d have one or two questions to ask 😊.
Also, I was wondering who created this forum... who the administrators or moderators are, etc.
I think this forum is great. Much better than Facebook, which I’ve been using since it shut down (so I’m happy to see it’s working again...)
Hi there, I’ve been traveling for 18 years now, at least 6 months a year, and as the years go by, I actually enjoy coming back to France more and more—a feeling I struggled with at first. I mean, we always think the grass is greener elsewhere.
But in the end, I find meaning in that saying about how there’s no place like home. I still love traveling just as much, but now my trips are shorter, and I enjoy spending more time in our beautiful country, even though I don’t hesitate to criticize it.
How about you? How do you handle coming back from your travels?
A few years ago, I went with a group of friends to lend a hand at a small rural school near Thiès, Senegal.
It was a relaxed but hardworking atmosphere—hands in the mortar, laughter, exchanges, and everything that a COOPERATION project can bring.
Today, the little project is flying on its own.
Wanting to explore Senegal’s riches, we set off for some tourism in the Siné Saloum. One girl in our group fell ill (a malaria attack), and we decided to take her to see a doctor at a large tourist complex nearby. Despite her condition, we had to "show our credentials" (if I may say so) just to get in. She was treated and has been fine since.
This "stop" at a Club Med-style resort with a Teutonic twist—resembling Le Grau-du-Roi but fancier—was a horror show for us: pools, massive artificial basins dyed blue, pink, or green (!!!!), animators shouting around wet T-shirt contests or coconut tree climbing, and sunburned (or sun-pinked) *toubabs*.
The entire hotel was surrounded by a huge wall, behind which a small souvenir-seller slum had sprung up, worthy of Dakar’s outer neighborhoods.
On leaving, we saw a minibus of guests returning from an "excursion," loaded with masks, fabrics, and djembés—African souvenirs?
Maybe those will be *theirs*?
What impression did the kids clustered at the hotel gates get?
What about the Black servers in "traditional African costumes," serving cocktails and ice cream nonstop?
For me, who experienced Africa very young and in the bush, this remains a haunting image.
On VF, this kind of vacation doesn’t seem to be the norm among users, and that’s exactly why I signed up.
Have you ever experienced this kind of interstellar travel?
Do you understand the Martians?
Are their motivations peaceful?
I’ve been wondering: Is it still reasonable to rent a car in the U.S.?
Apparently, since early January 2025—and very quietly—the most important insurance coverage, namely the driver’s civil liability, has seen its coverage amount drop from $1 million to just $300,000. This coverage is supposed to protect us from damages we might be responsible for while driving. We can go decades without a single scrape (especially if it’s our fault), but anything can happen in a split second. A motorcycle appearing out of nowhere, a misjudgment at one of those huge intersections with staggered traffic lights, and suddenly we could be deemed at fault for the accident. We’d then have to pay out of pocket for the other party’s medical expenses. Given what hospitals charge... it can easily exceed $300,000 and turn into a nightmare in no time!!! Plus, anyone who’s driven on American roads has seen those billboards for lawyers offering their services to accident victims. So on top of the sky-high medical bill, the lawyer will demand compensation worthy of a Hollywood movie!!!! So, is it even worth getting behind the wheel in America anymore? Well... that’s just my take! And on top of that, I haven’t found any insurance company that offers such high civil liability coverage. Chapka and others do offer coverage in the millions, but motor vehicles are excluded.... So here’s the thing... Unless I’ve "missed something," I’ve come to this conclusion: Renting a car in the U.S. is like playing Russian roulette! But maybe I’m being too pessimistic? What do you think?
My two bullfighting traditions when I'm back home in Camargue (France) and in Colombia (Caribbean) every time I return. 🤠
Details:
Bullfights (corridas) aren’t part of my two bullfighting traditions, but I respect those who attend them!!!
In these two ancestral bullfighting traditions—which aren’t bullfights—the Bulls and Toros aren’t killed or tortured, as some might think.
These are bull games where the animals return to their pastures afterward and only come back to the Arenas 2–3 times a year at most.
They spend 15 minutes in the ring for the Camarguais and 5 minutes for the Toros in the Colombian Corralejas.
They’re cared for and pampered. They’ll die of old age in miles of open fields.
The young people who face them are professionals, risking their lives to support their families and live their Passion for the Toro!!! 😄
https://youtu.be/yYKQer42HoQ
Colombian Corraleja in the link below (hope it works) 🤪
https://fb.watch/BMfmuCgQpG/
.
.
