After five trips to the American West, we had planned to switch countries and continents to visit Turkey. However, by the time we made up our minds, flight ticket prices had nearly doubled, reaching 400 € for a round-trip ticket. A bit disappointed, I started looking at transatlantic flight prices and stumbled upon discounted tickets from Basel-Mulhouse to Dallas—at the same price as our tickets to Turkey!
No hesitation needed; we bought the five tickets for a total of 1,860 € excluding baggage!
From Fort Worth Airport, we had two options:
- Head west on a loop through Texas, New Mexico, and southern Colorado
- Head east to change the scenery and explore East Texas, Louisiana, with a possible detour into Florida.
The latter option won unanimously, so here we are, off to discover new states, mainly Louisiana and Texas.
One of the main post-COVID challenges is finding a reasonably priced car rental. After an initial booking around 1,300 €, we kept an eye on prices a few weeks before departure and managed to snag a better deal at around 900 € for a comfortable sedan.
Yes, this summer will also be a first: no 4x4, no camping, and plenty of restaurants!
As always, I’ve planned a packed itinerary, ready to adjust on the go. A few weeks before departure, we learned we’d be at full capacity—our eldest son, Maxime, got his first-year med school results. By finishing as a top admit, he avoided the mandatory July-August internship that would’ve kept him from joining us. Instead, he wrapped up his internship at the last minute the night before our big departure.
We’ll get to savor these special moments together.
The itinerary:
Day 1 - 07/15: Fort Worth
Day 2: Dallas
Day 3: Jefferson - Caddo Lake
Day 4: Black Bayou Lake - Natchez - Stanton Hall and Rosalie Mansion
Day 5: St. Francisville - Rosedown Plantation - Cat Island Wildlife Refuge
Day 6: Mobile - USS Alabama Battleship Memorial Park
Day 7 - 8: Pensacola Beach
Day 9: Bellingrath Gardens - New Orleans
Day 10 - 11: New Orleans
Day 12: Plantation Route
Day 13: Jungle Gardens - Tabasco Factory - Vermilionville - Lake Martin
Day 14: Baton Rouge - USS Kidd
Day 15: Houma - Cajun Man's Swamp Tour
Day 16: Galveston, Texas
Day 17: Space Center Houston - Painted Churches
Day 18: San Antonio
Day 19: Texas Hill Country
Day 20: Texas Hill Country and evening in San Antonio
Day 21: Austin and Waco
Day 0 - 07/14: The departure timing isn’t exactly relaxing. On Thursday late afternoon, we hit the road to Alsace, aiming to drop off our two cockers with family before reaching the airport at 2 AM for a 3-hour power nap.
Not exactly fresh, we arrive at the terminal looking for a British Airways counter. None in sight, so we try our luck at a United Airlines counter—who knows, maybe it’ll work out. And bingo! The agent checks us in. We didn’t quite understand why, but maybe there’s some agreement between airlines. For the first time, we’re traveling without checked baggage, so no extra fees. Not a huge feat, given the scorching temperatures awaiting us!
The connecting flight to London goes smoothly.
During the layover, liquid checks get stricter—now requiring small bottles to be in a pre-approved clear bag, with only one bag allowed per passenger. Normally, no big deal, but between deodorant, sunscreen, after-sun lotion, hand sanitizer, contact lens solution, etc., we spend 20 minutes optimizing the arrangement! When we finally succeed, one of the security staff bursts out laughing and congratulates us!
With our stomachs growling, we grab an American breakfast before browsing the airport shops.
We then discover our plane for the long-haul flight and are thrilled to see it’s an A380—a first for Laetitia, though the rest of the family experienced it during our winter getaway. Still just as impressive!
With a hint of uncertainty, we take off for the States—my third trip in barely 12 months. This time, no endless badlands, canyons, slot canyons, hoodoos, or brain rocks, but a journey through five states (Texas, Louisiana, a quick stop in Mississippi, Alabama, and the northwest tip of Florida), where we hope to soak up a unique vibe... with a packed schedule of diverse visits.
Arrival at Fort Worth Airport and customs go smoothly. Since we have no checked baggage, we’re first in line at the Dollar counter. In just 3 minutes, the formalities are done. We decline the Toll Pass, which I don’t think we’ll need based on my "calculations," and head to the Dollar parking lot, where an employee tells us we can pick any car we want!
There are about thirty cars waiting. Too many choices!
After last year’s mishap in Oakland, where our 4x4’s trunk was broken into, we’re looking for a sedan to hide our luggage this time. Unfortunately, there are none—only SUVs. We finally settle on a comfortable 7-seater Ford SUV with a massive trunk when set up for five.
On the road from Fort Worth to Dallas, we accidentally take a toll highway without realizing until it’s too late to exit. Let’s hope Dollar doesn’t charge us a week’s worth of their pricey Toll Pass for a $2 toll. We’ll see... In the meantime, Maxime sets up Google Maps to avoid toll roads.
Since it’s not too late, we stop by the nearest Walmart for groceries before checking into our hotel room for three nights in East Dallas suburb.
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Sundance Square Plaza is located in the heart of the eponymous district. A certain harmony emanates from the architecture of the surrounding buildings.
We walked up Main Street to admire the Tarrant County Courthouse, a replica of the state capitol, which apparently often appeared in the TV series *Walker, Texas Ranger*.
After exploring this splendid downtown, we got back in the car to head toward the Stockyards National Historic District. We parked among the first cars in the huge lot bordering the main street and were irresistibly drawn to the shop on the corner, showcasing cowboy boots and clothing... and we completely ignored the signs.
At Stockyards Station, there are plenty of restaurants and souvenir shops. We took the chance to stock up on memories amid cowboy outfits, boots, and all sorts of Made in USA souvenirs.
or even a few seconds on the back of a longhorn for about $5. Didn’t feel like trying, especially since the cow looked miserable in the scorching heat.
Despite how brief the show is, we have a blast—the succession of horns is impressive!
We recognize the setting that was briefly used for filming the *1883* series during a scene in Fort Worth.
In my itinerary, I had planned to attend a rodeo scheduled for 8:00 PM at the Coliseum. However, in the afternoon when we walked by, we found the arena really small compared to the one in Cody.
Afraid of being disappointed—and knowing we still had over 4 hours to wait until the show started—we all got lazy and decided to head back to Dallas instead.
In the same neighborhood is Swiss Avenue, a surprising street that houses some of the city’s most luxurious villas. In this district listed on the National Register of Historic Places, various architectural styles follow one another, and no two buildings look alike!
We can’t linger too long because at 10 AM, we’re off to Southfork Ranch for a guided tour of the famous ranch where the *Dallas* TV series was filmed. The ranch is still about thirty miles from downtown.
The interior rooms were apparently reproduced more or less faithfully compared to the studios.
The giant Eyeball, a realistic fiberglass sculpture
Walking toward City Hall, we get an interesting angle on a group of downtown buildings.
City Hall itself isn’t anything special. However, the view enjoyed by the employees is much more interesting.
We then reach Reunion Tower, one of the city's most iconic towers. At the top of this tower, there's a sphere containing a revolving bar-restaurant, Five Sixty, surrounded by a metal mesh with nearly 260 lamps that light up at night.
I bought a combo ticket that allows for a double visit: a trip to the top during the day for a panoramic daytime view, then a return in the evening to enjoy the downtown illuminations. We even get a cheesy family souvenir photo before taking the elevator. Can't share it on the forum... 😄
The view of County Courthouse, located right next to Dealey Plaza, is just as stunning!
After a quick elevator ride down, we enjoy a view of County Courthouse from street level.
And here's Dealey Plaza, the famous square where JFK was assassinated on November 22, 1963. At the corner of the street is the Sixth Floor Museum, a museum that details the assassination. At nearly $20 for entry to a simple museum, we're a bit put off and decide to skip it.
We continue to the memorial dedicated to JFK. Though it looks rather ordinary, it has the distinction of having been erected by the people of Dallas.
Bank of America Tower
The metal structure stabilizing Reunion Tower lights up blue thanks to hundreds of lamps.
I then suggest to the family that we head to the trendy Deep Ellum neighborhood, but we’re all exhausted from this very long day, so we decide to head back to the hotel for our last night in Dallas.
The Excelsior House Hotel, the oldest hotel in Texas, is still in operation.
Right across the street, we discover Jay’s Gould Railroad Car, the luxurious personal carriage of businessman Jayson Gould, who invested in rail development. At the time of our visit, the carriage isn’t open for tours, so we just walk around it and peek inside.
One of our favorite spots is the Jefferson General Store, which offers absolutely everything imaginable—from groceries to souvenirs, toys, and beauty products. The decor is busy but stylish, and you can even grab a coffee while playing checkers!
The First National Bank, another remarkable building.
We take a quick detour to Oakwood Cemetery before continuing toward Uncertain, which borders Caddo Lake. Some towns still have decorations from the Fourth of July.
And here we are in Uncertain, where I’d read it was possible to rent canoes to explore the heart of the bayous. But the dock is deserted, so we walk along the lake looking for a canoe rental. No luck—the two places I’d noted, which dated from before COVID, no longer exist.
Then we see a guy arrive in his massive 4x4 and launch his boat. We obviously ask if he offers tours or knows someone who rents canoes. He explains he’s in charge of cleaning the bayou and doesn’t offer any tourist services.
The inner area offers a clearer view of Caddo Lake and its iconic cypress trees.
Every now and then, we hear the distant hum of a motorboat in the main canal or the cry of a bird we’ve startled. We’re so glad we chose the no-motor option...
Even if it’s not super obvious in the photos, small posts placed regularly along the route help with navigation.
We just can’t get enough of these submerged cypress forests!
With our arms starting to tire, we decide to play it safe and retrace our steps through the inner area of Caddo Lake, where the current is very weak. Good call—on the way back, we realize we’re slightly against the current.
The different views of the lake are stunning thanks to the soft morning light, though the trees are sparse and far less photogenic than the ones at Caddo Lake the day before. Without many trees, we enjoyed the blooming water lilies in the serene atmosphere and took pleasure in watching the few birds that landed on the surrounding trees.
A beautiful bird striking a pose for us.
Again and again, those water lilies we never get tired of.
We then completed the second part of the loop through a swampy forest where the waters were covered in moss and duckweed.
Next, we headed to Natchez, with some typical Southern houses.
Our first stop was the Historic Natchez Cemetery, which is so vast that it’s possible—and recommended—to visit by car. No photo can truly capture the immensity of the site!
Some of the isolated or lined-up trees along the paved paths are remarkable.
Near the public cemetery, there’s also a military cemetery with rows of tombstones that create a striking visual effect.
Back in town, we set out to find the first historic home on our itinerary.
The bedrooms still feature canopy beds, which were more practical for hanging mosquito nets.
After an hour-long fascinating tour, we take a little stroll outside. It’s impossible to sit on the wrought-iron benches for more than 10 seconds—they’re scorching in the blazing sun.
We deliberately skip Longwood—it’s impressive from the outside, but the interior was never finished and tends to leave visitors wanting more.
When we rest on the benches under the main façade’s portico, we discover a stunning view of the Mississippi River, which once prompted Union General Walter Gresham to requisition the home during the war. Thanks to his kindness, the owners of Rosalie were able to preserve all their belongings.
Next, we visit St. Mary Basilica, known for its magnificent stained-glass windows.
Then, in the Natchez-under-the-Hill district, we stop by Forks of the Road Slave Market Site, where the second-largest slave market once stood. This memorial site is minimal—just a lawn and a few informational panels to ensure we don’t forget...
It’s barely 4:30 PM, but we decide to head to our hotel—or rather, our Linden Manor, a historic Bed and Breakfast.
When the manager shows us our suite—two bedrooms decorated with period furniture—we’re instantly transported back in time.
To wrap up the day, since we can’t dine at Linden, we head downtown, where I found a highly rated spot on Tripadvisor: Le Pig Out Inn Barbecue. The interior décor is more cafeteria-style, with plastic trays and cutlery, but the meat is delicious and easy on the wallet!
We’re served an excellent tart with scrambled eggs and potatoes, all accompanied by a single roll.
Next, we visited another plantation, Rosedown Plantation, located near St Francisville.
Inside, the original furniture has kept its initial placement.
In the bedrooms, you can admire the richness of the curtains, Aubusson carpets, embroidery, and rosewood furniture in the Gothic style.
Many boxwoods, typical of this type of garden, are really not in great shape.
The main alley is majestic, as is the case for many plantations.
We make our way to Grace Episcopal Church and its adjoining cemetery, where we find the graves of the Turnbull family, owners of Rosedown House & Plantation. The guide had just told us their story and the tragedies that befell them.
Due to the closure of Afton Villa Gardens and the lack of things to see in St. Francisville itself, we have time to check out Cat Island Wildlife Refuge—a Plan B I couldn’t find any info on.
Next, we head to Baton Rouge, the capital of Louisiana, which we’re scheduled to visit in a week. Tonight, we just stop for a fast-food dinner at Wendy’s to finally try the burger that was voted the best in the U.S.!
After reading glowing comments in various blogs, I expected to see many more beautiful mansions, like in the French Quarter of New Orleans, which we’ll discover in a few days. We were a bit disappointed, and the heat didn’t motivate us to explore every street in the downtown area more thoroughly.
I suggest visiting the Richards-DAR House Museum to the family, but after seeing so many plantation-era homes already, everyone prefers to cut the downtown visit short to get started on the USS Alabama Battleship Memorial Park as soon as possible—the highlight of the day!
The sprawling site features about thirty historic aircraft, each more impressive and unique than the last.
As a little preview, we check out some military equipment: planes, tanks, missile launchers...
Before starting the tour of the famous battleship, we walk to the end of the pier for a panoramic view of the USS Alabama.
After paying for our tickets, more stunning examples of aircraft, seaplanes, helicopters, and other military vehicles await us in a massive exhibition hall.
The inside of the submarine is perfectly maintained, making the visit totally immersive. We’re all impressed by the multitude of equipment and the space optimization. We still wonder how a crew of several dozen men could live completely self-sufficiently for weeks.
We even get to go up to the upper level to the periscope.
This warship, capable of carrying over 1,500 sailors, is so huge that we don’t know where to start the tour! A paper guide with numbers helps create a "school-like" route. But we spent so much time in the USS Drum, and it’s already 3 PM, with the site closing at 5 PM.
We decide to explore by feel, starting with the exterior.
You almost feel like you’re there... even if we’re much better off in 2023...
Back inside, with dozens of restored rooms and engine rooms just like they were back then.
The interior is structured like a real small town, with all the services and medical care needed for the sailors.
We also take the chance to climb to the upper levels to reach the highest point open to visitors. From there, we can get close to all the light and heavy artillery!
We’ve been at Memorial Park for 3.5 hours—time flew by, and we would’ve gladly stayed another hour! But the site’s closing, so we head back to our car to continue our drive to Florida, heading toward Pensacola.
Fort Pickens is pretty sprawling, but its exterior doesn’t really tempt us to explore it further.
There are a maximum of 10 people on this stretch of beach, which spans several hundred meters. Pure bliss...
After more than 2 hours, we leave the protected area to check out another beach, but we don’t linger—the sun is beating down, and we want to avoid getting badly sunburned.
Plus, the water color is way less appealing than yesterday. We swim anyway, but after 20 minutes, everyone’s already out. We watch the spectacle of Americans spending their time drinking beer cans in the water—almost everyone has one in hand!
an Irish pub, and various quaint shops.
The villa was built along the Fowl River, where we spot a family being pulled on a giant inflatable tube.
A little further on, we reach a boardwalk that overlooks a marshy area, which, according to the information signs, is frequented by water snakes and alligators.
All we see is a huge grasshopper and a few really ugly spiders.
There’s also a Japanese garden, which is Japanese in name only. Really disappointing, since there are almost no plants in that section.
In the end, we found the visit to this garden rather disappointing. The photogenic and plant-rich areas are really limited. And given the almost nonexistent crowds we saw this morning, we’re thinking the financial situation isn’t going to improve...
Since it’s 3 PM, we take the opportunity to head to our BnB in the Bywater neighborhood, a working-class area a few miles from downtown. We park the car for the next two days in an inner courtyard and start unloading everything from the car—just to avoid tempting fate.
We make our way to the southern end of the Vieux Carré, toward Canal Street, then head toward the Mississippi. Some of the wrought-iron balconies are absolutely stunning.
As night falls, we head back to Bourbon Street for a cocktail while strolling through the now-infamous street. The vibe is lively and fun, but honestly, it wasn’t what I’d imagined we’d experience here!
After dark, people really let loose—many have a beer or cocktail in hand, and each bar has its own band to draw in customers. Some singers are fantastic, while others wouldn’t make it past the *The Voice* auditions...
By the end of the evening, we walk up Canal Street to catch our bus back to our BnB.
Jackson Square and St. Louis Cathedral, where we appreciate both the cool air and the quality of construction.
On the way to Chartres Street
Here we are in front of BK House, which is closed to the public according to a sign on the gate. At the exact time of the tour, with still no guide in sight, we start to doubt. So we "force" our way in, despite the sign, and discover our guide was waiting inside.
After lunch at an excellent pizzeria, U Pizza, near the Garden District, we start exploring this second neighborhood, which contains many pre-Civil War homes built by Anglo-Saxon immigrants in the mid-19th century.
Neo-Greek and Italianate styles dominate the area, but you’ll also find many homes with the famous wrought-iron balconies. Several are undergoing restoration.
We continue our stroll through the area bounded by St. Charles Avenue, Jackson Avenue, Magazine Street, and Louisiana Avenue.
By 4 PM, everyone’s exhausted, so we decide to head back to our place to rest and have dinner.
Next up is the 1850 House & Museum, also bordering Jackson Square. The house is small and less lavishly furnished than the other historic homes we’ve visited, so we’re a bit underwhelmed.
Another evening in the French Quarter—no surprises—trying to find streets with atmosphere, but we inevitably end up back in the touristy areas...
followed by a second stop at Evergreen Plantation, which we were determined to see—even if just from a distance—since it was the filming location for Tarantino’s *Django Unchained*.
Along the way, sugarcane fields stretch endlessly...
By 8 AM, we’re at Oak Alley Plantation right as it opens, famous worldwide for its alley of 28 three-hundred-year-old oak trees. One of the best photo ops is at the gate—no entry fee required.
The plantation isn’t open to the public yet, and the gardener takes advantage of the quiet to perfectly manicure the lawn.
Some of the cabins have been restored to show what life was like for enslaved families, and several personal stories are shared.
We then follow a path shaded by another row of oaks to reach the main house, where our guide is waiting.
A few of the oaks look a bit worse for wear, but the scene remains breathtaking!
All this beauty tends to immerse us in the romance, Creole culture, and past grandeur—but it’s impossible to forget that this splendor was built on slavery and the deaths of thousands of Black people.
After the tour, we take another full lap around the gardens, which only cover a tiny fraction of the plantation’s original 450 hectares. Another angle of the villa, symbolizing the extravagant opulence of the old plantations!
But we quickly discover where the real interest of the guided tour lies. Unlike our recent experience at Oak Alley Plantation, here the guide tells us in minute detail the story of four generations of free and enslaved members of a Creole family from Louisiana.
In one of the cabins, we see an authentic register listing the value of each slave according to their category. But our guide’s fascinating account doesn’t just detail the period of slavery—it also covers the very long post-Civil War era, with all the challenges of a society where everyone was now supposed to be free.
The water lily ponds, ancient oaks, and benches invite us to wander... or maybe it’s the huge steaks we ate less than an hour ago!
A few Japanese-style ponds add to the changing atmosphere.
Time is ticking, and we need to reach our next home for the next four nights in New Iberia. Since self-check-in is possible thanks to a lockbox, we decide to stop by Lake Martin, where we’ve planned a boat tour in the coming days. With no offices open, we book five spots for the sunset tour through the Cajun Country Swamp Tour website.
We’re even lucky enough to spot several dark shapes, their upper parts just breaking the water’s surface, moving silently without a ripple. Alligators... And in the distance, a wading bird prowls stealthily, hunting for a fish or two.
A small path led us away from the main trail and into exotic vegetation. A warning sign reminded us that alligators might be around.
We all froze—wondering if we were really safe or if an attack was possible!!
A remarkable oak, the oldest and most impressive in the park.
We continued through tropical plants, a bamboo grove, a wisteria tunnel, and even a 12th-century Buddha at the heart of a Chinese garden before reaching the bird garden. To get there, we climbed to the top of a promontory overlooking a huge lake covered in duckweed. Online, you can find photos with thousands of birds on the various structures designed to welcome them.
We were clearly not there at the right time. With this heat, the few birds around barely flew before returning to rest in the shade of the trees.
It was already noon when we got back to the car, and then we headed to the Tabasco factory to learn all about how the famous hot sauce is made. The tour is self-guided, but the signposted route is well done with explanations all along the way.
After another mix with a special salt, the mixture is bottled.
The renovated buildings feature very bright colors.
The school proudly displaying an American flag.
There’s even a chance to cross the bayou on a floating dock, using a rope tied on both sides. We admire the bravery of a Quebecer who doesn’t hesitate to dip their fingers into the swampy water, which looks pretty unappetizing.
Of course, you can explore the rest of the village without making that crossing! More beautiful reconstructed houses.
We would’ve loved to stay longer, but the village closes its doors at 4 PM. We say goodbye to the actresses bringing this site to life,
We honestly couldn’t get enough of the scenery—or the alligators, which I happily photographed from every angle.
As the sun began to set, we started making our way back, picking up the pace.
The guide took us to a tree with a hollow trunk that served as a refuge for birds.
And just like that, this amazing adventure came to an end—we were completely blown away!
Finally, back to our home sweet home for a night where we’d all be dreaming of alligators.
Where there’s sugarcane, there are harvesting machines and processing plants.
The main attraction in Baton Rouge is the USS Kidd, the famous destroyer that survived World War II, serving in the Pacific, the Philippines, and Korea. It’s named in honor of Admiral Kidd, who commanded the USS Arizona and died in combat during the attack on Pearl Harbor.
Size-wise, it’s nothing like the USS Alabama—it looks tiny in comparison! Then again, destroyers are meant to be fast and maneuverable.
The various cannons are in excellent condition.
Besides the exterior, you can visit the interior facilities, like the engine room, kitchen, mess hall, and cabins.
After touring the ship, we spend time in the naval museum admiring model ships and several World War II planes, then head to the Louisiana State Capitol.
Then the modern version of the Capitol. The steps leading up to it have the names of various U.S. states engraved in capital letters.
We make sure to go up to the top floor for a panoramic view of the city. Some angles are flattering,
while others, with views of the many factories, are much less so!
After another dinner at Duffy's Diner, we end our evening by opening a bottle of pecan liqueur bought at Laura Plantation. We’ll have to finish it before the end of our trip!
The very wide canals follow one after another, without us winding through the submerged cypress trees.
And every 10 minutes, the guide calls the alligators, who show up immediately for lunch. In nearly 3 hours, we fed about twenty alligators begging for chicken scraps!!
Ah... we finally reach a more photogenic area, and we’re lucky enough to spot some large birds!
Toward the end of the 3-hour tour, we get some lively Cajun music, and our guide puts on a real show!
Most of the houses are built in their own unique style, but you can also spot "row" villas with matching colors and layouts.
At the end of Route 87, we reach Port Bolivar, where the ferry terminal is located for the 3 km crossing of Galveston Bay.
In Galveston, we park on a street near Bishop’s Palace. This is the kind of mansion you’ll find around here—and it’s easy to see why people love living in this area!
Sacred Heart Catholic Church, a luxurious and unexpected church with an oriental style.
We would’ve loved to visit, but it was closed.
Built with colorful, carved, and engraved stone, this home’s interior is as grand as its exterior. Inside, you’ll find a vast living room furnished with rare woods, Murano glass chandeliers, and stained glass. Constructed between 1886 and 1892 under the direction of Nicholas Clayton, the building was inspired by French castles.
The most photogenic part of the house is its monumental spiral staircase, highlighted by the massive wood, intricate carvings on the railings and walls, and its stained glass. Every angle reveals its beauty!
We head down to the port, where we spot a few pelicans napping or preening.
We can’t help but laugh seeing all the birds searching for the tiniest patch of shade! When it comes to midday heat, it feels like being fully dressed in a sauna!
Each villa has a façade facing the canals that lead to the Gulf of Mexico. Still, we don’t see many docked boats.
We don’t have time to visit Moody Mansion, so we head back to our hotel, Crystal Suites, for just one night.
