With my girlfriend Christelle, we’ve chosen South Africa for our first trip to Southern Africa, focusing on safaris—after a long debate with a Cape Town/Kruger combo.
But that would’ve meant cutting out St Lucia, which would’ve been harder to fit into another trip.
And St Lucia—thanks to Michel and all those travel journals—we really wanted to go there.
So our 11-night itinerary ended up like this, mostly shaped by school holidays:
- 3 nights in St Lucia
- 1 night in Hluhluwe
- 1 night at Mkhaya Game Reserve (Eswatini)
- 1 night at Hlane Royal National Park (Eswatini)
- 3 nights in Kruger (Berg en Dal / Satara / Tamboti)
- 1 night at Shindzela Tented Camp in the Timbavati private reserve
- 1 final night in Kruger at Lower Sabie
All of this in the off-season and rainy season, just a month after catastrophic floods that killed over 150 people and seriously damaged Kruger’s infrastructure.
I’ll jump straight to St Lucia and skip the loooong journey to get there (with a layover in Frankfurt, landing in Johannesburg, a domestic flight to Durban, and the rest by rental SUV—First Car Rental, perfect, no complaints).
To motivate readers—especially some familiar faces here—I’ll drop in a first photo.
I’m a newbie to this forum, passionate about wildlife, the landscapes of East Africa, and Tanzania in particular.
This June 2024 trip/safari is our 7th visit to Tanzania and our 5th in the south, which has drawn us more than the north ever since we discovered it in 2015.
In 2024, the entrance fees for the reserves and services have gone up again since our last visit.
I chose to return first to Mikumi Reserve, which was the very first one we visited in the south. Then, we’ll head to Selous (J. Nyerere N. P.) as usual.
Initially, we wanted to spend 2/3 days on Mafia Island at the end of the trip, but it made the total cost too high, so we gave up...
We usually go to Ruaha and Selous, but I wanted to mix it up a bit—also to save some money...
As for the timing, June is a new experience for us. I thought it might be interesting to come just after the lodges reopen... hoping for some great wildlife encounters??
The trip starts in Marseille with our first flight on Ethiopian Airlines to Addis Ababa, then continues to Dar es Salaam, where we’ll finally set foot on Tanzanian soil again.
In Addis... "our" A-350.
.....
After arriving in Dar, we spent one night at a hotel near the airport. The next morning, we headed to the domestic flights terminal, which hasn’t changed in years.
By mid-morning, we boarded a Cessna 208B Caravan with Safari Air Link, heading to the Kikoboga bush airstrip in Mikumi, which we reached 45 minutes later.
Fun fact: the pilot was the same one as on our return flight two years ago.
Welcome on board:
Of course, a driver/guide team from our chosen lodge was waiting for us upon arrival:
I was surprised to see so many aircraft parked there... even twin-engine Embraer Brasilias??
As a fan of vintage planes, I loved it...
On the other hand, the light was incredibly harsh.....!!
Our guides only speak English. We knew that in advance. In the south, it’s very rare to find someone who speaks French. This’ll force us to dig into our high school English memories... from 60 years ago... at least.
It’s noon, and we head toward the lodge.
Near the airstrip, next to the Mikumi rangers’ base, there are quite a few herbivores. They find a bit more peace here—the big cats don’t venture this way...
Our first encounter was a group of Masai giraffes.
Rarer (for us), a savanna monitor lizard basking in the sun right in the middle of the track...??
A large gathering of impalas (mostly males) along with a few blue wildebeest:
Also unusual: a African crowned hornbill taking a dust bath in the middle of the track...!!
When it comes to identifying mammals or birds, I don’t know everything... so I might make mistakes. Please forgive me.
I’m counting on my friend Blesl’s active participation... 😉
Here we go—finally, the big day has arrived! A trip the whole family (my two kids, my husband, and me) had been looking forward to for so long.
To keep it short, we left from Nice, arrived in Namibia on June 25, 2025, and left again on the 21st—four weeks later.
We used an agency for all the camping reservations, activities, and the car rental. At least that side of things was taken care of. Michaël was our contact throughout the planning and the trip itself.
We spent our first night at Londiningi BB. A bit out of the city center but very quiet. The rooms were spacious and clean, and we could eat on-site that evening. Perfect for recovering from the flight.
You’ll find a video of our trip on my YouTube channel there.
Now I’ll tell you about our 10-night trip in Tanzania, with 8 nights spent in two parks we didn’t know. Tanzania isn’t new to us—it was even our first African safari destination back in 2012.
https://www.youtube.com/@lolodetoul54
Since then, we’ve visited several East and Southern African countries: Kenya, South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, some of them multiple times. We usually travel in September during the dry season. We tried March 2024 for nine nights in the Okavango and loved it, except everything was dry, which wasn’t normal for the rainy season.
So for this second March trip during the wet season, we really got what we asked for… rain.
But before that, we had to fight just to get to Tanzania.
Saturday, February 21, 2026:
It’s D-Day—the departure. What a hassle to organize flights to and within Tanzania! I’ll tell you all about it in another post:
https://voyageforum.com/forum/toutes-compagnies-aeriennes-tanzaniennes-interdites-d10758360/
On top of that, Rwandair canceled our outbound flight a month before departure. They offered to reschedule us 3-4 days later—ridiculous for a 10-night trip we’d already booked. We had to cancel our tickets and buy new ones with Kenya Airways. We’re still waiting for our refund from Rwandair!!!!!!!
So on Saturday, February 1st, our bags were packed. We headed to the Lorraine TGV station, about 30 km from home.
Direct train to Roissy—just 1h15. Quick and efficient.
All that was left was to wait for our overnight flight. We took off on time, just before 11 PM. Smooth flight, nothing unusual. Arrived in Nairobi around 9 AM. A few hours’ wait, then a flight to Dar es Salaam, landing at our first destination around 12:45 PM.
Our local contact, Anne from Asanterra agency, picked us up at the airport. It was hot and humid—it was raining.
Our first night was at the Alexander Hotel. That evening, we treated ourselves to fish and shellfish at the hotel restaurant:
Sunday, February 22, 2026:
A driver picked us up at dawn to take us to the domestic airport so we could finally head to our first destination: Ruaha National Park.
We flew with Auric.air for a 2-hour flight with two stops (Nyerere and Zkima airstrips).
I’m always amazed at how easily these Cessnas take off and land on dirt runways—especially when they’re wet:
Aerial view of Zkima airstrip, where we’d landed just minutes earlier:
Flyover of Iringa, a "big" city in the country near Ruaha National Park:
We’re getting close. The plane descends and flies over the Ruaha River, which gave the park its name:
We land for the third and final time that day, reaching our destination: Msembe airstrip, the gateway to Ruaha.
" We’re ALL different, and so are our expectations when it comes to travel or leisure ".
There are—without a doubt—as many ways to experience a trip as there are travelers!!
For the two of us, it’s only our love of wild nature that guides us to East Africa.
The stated goal of this trip was purely wildlife-focused, and NOT about discovering the country or its people.
...
Hello everyone,
Previously, I shared the account of a trip/safari in southern Tanzania in June 2024, in the Mikumi and Selous reserves.
This time, still in southern Tanzania, I invite you to join us in Ruaha National Park. (Then, depending on the number of images allowed in my quota, at the end of my story, we’ll return to Selous for the second part of the same trip.)
- This trip/safari took place in November 2022.
- Our flight started in Marseille, heading to Addis Ababa, then Dar es Salaam (via Ethiopian Airlines). In Dar, we spent one night at a hotel near the airfield.
-1- During the layover in Addis Ababa. The Airbus A-350 in the early morning mist.
Reminder: Click on each image to enlarge it, if needed.
.
From Dar es Salaam, if you want to go by road to Ruaha, it’ll take a very long and tiring day. 🤪
On previous trips, we’ve always taken a bush plane for this route.
In this case, it took just over an hour and a half, with two short intermediate stops to drop off passengers at other bush airstrips.
Since I’m also passionate about aviation, I love these flights where you can admire the landscapes from low altitude while sitting right behind the pilot 🙂.
-2- These routes mainly use Cessna 208 Caravans.
At the Msembe airstrip, we’re greeted around 1:30 PM by a guide and a driver from our chosen lodge. They brought a picnic basket, which we enjoy at a nearby picnic area. We’re by the Ruaha River, completely dry—it’s scorching hot.
-3- The first mammals we encounter are a pair of female impalas, accompanied by a young male.
Reminder: Click on the image to view it in larger size. 😉
-4- To save the hippopotamus populations from certain death, rangers had to dig holes in the sand with bulldozers. Fortunately, water is present beneath the sand layer.
-5- This crocodile doesn’t seem to have been accepted as a swimming neighbor by the hippos...
We’ll explore along the river for 2-3 hours before crossing it at a ford toward the southern part of the reserve.
-6- The typical landscape of Ruaha, with its many baobabs.
-7- My buddy the R.L.B. is also here to welcome me.... 🙂 🙂
-8- As well as this little bee-eater... 😎
-9- ...which reminds us of the origin of its name...!
-10- Above a rare waterhole, a fish eagle keeps watch for fish...
...
*** Please wait until the end of the story for any questions or to share your own experiences in Ruaha. (Or via PM.)
Thanks in advance for keeping this account smooth and enjoyable. 😉
...
*** I’m not an ornithologist, but birds are an important and unavoidable part of safari discoveries. You’ll find quite a few in the images of my story. 😎
After several years, I’ve finally decided to repost a travel journal on the forum.
We returned a few weeks ago from an incredible trip to Kenya, and it’s reignited my desire to share our emotions in the face of these animals.
Kenya wasn’t originally a priority for us in terms of safari—we had the impression it was too touristy. So, we started with other destinations: Namibia, Tanzania, Botswana, and South Africa. But as I did more research, especially on the forum (thanks in part to Sylvie’s many trips), I eventually convinced myself that Kenya could be magnificent, as long as we chose our itinerary carefully and avoided peak seasons.
We ended up going in January, from the 17th to the 31st.
We worked with a travel agency (TP) that crafted a custom itinerary for us: Samburu-Ol Pejeta-Naivasha-Maji Moto-Maasai Mara-Diani. They partnered with a local French-speaking agency, and everything was perfectly organized. Our trip exceeded all our expectations, and none of it would’ve been as amazing without our guide, Alfred. He accompanied us for 10 days and was a fantastic travel companion—professional, respectful of the animals, and always in good spirits. We formed a great bond with him in such a short time.
- **January 17th**
After meeting up with Juliette and Charlotte in Rennes the night before, we left at 4 AM for Roissy Charles de Gaulle Airport. The thick fog made the drive pretty rough, but we arrived safely around 7:45 AM. A Blue Valet driver was waiting to take our car. Check-in went smoothly, and we waited patiently for our 10:40 AM flight. Unfortunately, despite boarding on time, a passenger was missing, and we had to find a replacement last minute. Then, another passenger who had checked in and dropped off their luggage wasn’t on the plane, so they had to unload their bags. After a long period of uncertainty and spotty communication from the crew, we finally took off over an hour late.
We arrived in Nairobi in the late afternoon, 45 minutes behind schedule. The administrative formalities were endless—it took nearly 1.5 hours from landing to leaving the airport with our luggage. When we stepped out, Alfred, our guide, was waiting with a big smile and drove us to the Eka Hotel, not far from the airport. Exhausted from the long journey, we fell asleep quickly.
- **January 18th**
Alfred met us at 7 AM for a long drive to Samburu Reserve. We had a peaceful night, unlike the girls, who barely slept because their neighbors were talking loudly all night. Things even escalated when Charlotte started shouting insults to get them to quiet down, but it didn’t work.
It was Sunday, so traffic around Nairobi and along the route was light. Aside from a quick "technical stop," we drove straight through and arrived in Samburu after just under 6 hours. Because of the lower altitude (around 1,000m on average), it was hot—over 30°C in mid-January.
As soon as we entered the reserve, we spotted some impalas and quickly came across one of the region’s endemic species: the reticulated giraffe, which is absolutely stunning.
While heading to our camp for lunch, Alfred crossed paths with another vehicle and learned that a leopard was nearby. We started searching, and a few minutes later, Anny spotted a shape in a tree—it was our leopard!
There were actually two of them—a mother and her adolescent. The young one was perched high in the tree, in the shade. We got to observe them for a good half-hour in excellent conditions, with just one other vehicle nearby.
Alfred also noticed that the mother had hidden prey (a gerenuk gazelle) in the vegetation, away from prying eyes.
It was time to head to our camp, the Ashnil Samburu Camp, located in the Buffalo Springs area, by the river, in an idyllic setting surrounded by the region’s typical vegetation.
The welcome was fantastic—we immediately felt at home, and that feeling lasted throughout our 3-day stay in the reserve. It was 2 PM, but no one rushed us to the table. Our waitress, Sheila, who took care of us the whole time, was as lovely as the rest of the team. Barely seated, we were invited to watch an elephant passing right by the camp, in front of the restaurant. This trip was off to a great start!
After lunch, we relaxed by the pool. Monkeys, especially vervets, were everywhere, and a camp employee was assigned to keep an eye on them and shoo them away if needed (especially the baboons).
A little before 4 PM, we met up with Alfred for our first game drive. Just outside the camp, a few elephants were in the valley near the river.
We’d see them in the same area almost every day.
We also spotted some gazelles.
After sharing some safari photos from southern Tanzania, I’d like to show you those from our latest safari in Kenya in October 2025.
First, I’d like to thank Sylvie56, whose previous travel journals about this country inspired our trip choices. Thanks also for the info you sent us via PM. THANK YOU!
The following account is from a simple wildlife enthusiast. You won’t find anything here but images of landscapes, mammals, and birds.
The stated purpose of this trip was purely and solely wildlife-focused.
(It was in no way a discovery of the country or its people).
This stay/safari began (and ended) in Nairobi, with flights between France and Kenya operated by Qatar Airways departing from Nice.
Over two weeks, we first visited the reserves of Tsavo West and Tsavo East, then after a long road trip, the two reserves of Buffalo Springs and Samburu.
= Please wait until the end of the journal to ask any specific questions (or send them via PM) to keep the story flowing without interruptions or off-topic comments.
My three little girls and I went on a family safari in Tanzania. It was magnificent—unbelievable how the animals don’t even notice us. They just go about their lives right before our eyes.
I’ll answer some of the common questions that come up. It’s expensive, but I’d say it costs about the same as a week at a Club Med in Martinique, and honestly, we preferred this. Is it dangerous? Not with the animals if you don’t get out of the car. The real risks are being swept away by water if you go from late February to June, especially in the Serengeti, and car accidents if your guide drives a little too fast (though you can just tell them you’re scared if they overtake without visibility). Should you go to the Serengeti even though it’s far? My answer is yes—it’s where you’ll see lions, lionesses, cheetahs, and leopards (we only saw one).
Booking an agency is a must because the guides call each other as soon as they spot a lion, cheetah, leopard, or especially when it’s safe to cross rivers. We were often alone (just our two cars) except when there was a call—then everyone rushes over, and you end up with about twenty cars.
That’s all for now—feel free to message me privately for more details.
Hello everyone,
It’s been a little over a year and a half since we first set foot in South Africa, and ever since, we’ve been dreaming of returning to explore Southern Africa.
First of all, a big thank you to all the forum members—there are so many on this VoyageForum section, some of whom are unconditional and indispensable experts on the destination—for the amazing travel journals that only make you want one thing: to go and discover these stunning lands.
The first journal I read was Bruno’s (Montagnard74), and I was completely captivated by the face in the colors of the rainbow nation.
Now it’s my turn to add my small contribution by recounting our two-week trip during the Christmas period in South Africa.
Even though Attila strongly advised against visiting South Africa during the South African summer holidays, we still gave it a try since my husband doesn’t have the option to choose his vacation dates.
So we went during the peak tourist season, with all its drawbacks: difficulties finding accommodations, crowds at certain sites...
But on the bright side, it’s the beautiful season in South Africa while it’s gray and cold back home.
For this trip, we wanted to explore Cape Town and its surroundings, which are already packed with things to see. As a result, we didn’t have time to head north without rushing too much.
So we planned the following itinerary, staying in the south:
To give you a taste of what we experienced on the South African roads, here’s a little preview of the wildlife and flora we encountered, as well as the beaches and mountains we glimpsed.
We’ve been back for a month now, so it’s high time I posted the story of our adventures! 😉 I’d also like to thank everyone who shared their own experiences on this forum (or elsewhere) and gave us tips—it really helped us plan our trip.
14/09/2019: Johannesburg - Vryburg
After months of waiting and reading other travelers’ journals, it’s finally our turn! We arrived in Johannesburg from Nantes and Paris in the morning. We looked for the Bushlore rep—we’d rented our 4x4 from them—but there was no sign with our name! « Bushlore? She’s a woman, I saw her a few minutes ago, » someone told us. A minute later, the Bushlore employee showed up: a man! 🤪 He sped onto the highway, and just 30 minutes later, we arrived at the rental place. It’s a big operation with good organization and lots of vehicles—pretty reassuring. Our 4x4 was there, a classic Toyota Hilux fully equipped for safari: rooftop tent, dual diesel tanks, 60-liter water reserve, two batteries, two spare tires, all the camping gear, plus everything needed for *désensablement* (getting unstuck from sand). Speaking of which, is it "désensablage" or "désensablement"? Best to just avoid getting stuck in the first place! 😏 Good news… or not: the vehicle was brand new, with barely 100 kilometers on the odometer. On one hand, we figured we wouldn’t have mechanical issues or a fridge breakdown, but on the other, we knew it wouldn’t be easy to return it without a single scratch. Either way, it was our first time renting a 4x4, and we were impressed.
We set off toward Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park—it’s not exactly around the corner! In 1994 (when Mandela had just become President) and 2007, during our two previous trips to South Africa, we loved this park, so we couldn’t imagine going to Botswana without returning. The road was pretty monotonous, with not much to see except a few ostriches.
We stopped for the night in Vryburg at the Kameelboom Lodge campsite. It was a bit noisy since it’s close to the road, and the facilities weren’t great, but it was fine for one night.
The departure:
David was on time, as always, to drive us to the airport. At the check-in counter, I was told my passport was damaged and they needed to check if I could board the plane or not. Huge stress. We waited a good twenty minutes while a supervisor checked my passport and let me through. Meanwhile, we’d already come up with backup plans in case I had to stay in Brussels. Anyway, it all worked out in the end—we’ll see in Addis Ababa and Maun if they let me through. Needless to say, I’m really nervous.
The Ethiopian Airlines flight went smoothly. We met up with Jean-Mi and Nadette, our friends from Marseille, in a café at the airport in Ethiopia. We recounted our adventures over coffee. Oh boy, things were getting hectic at the boarding gates—we got in line, and after a long wait, a bus took us to a plane that, hopefully, was headed to Maun and not the Congo.
Four hours later, we arrived. After clearing immigration—phew, my passport was accepted—a rep from the agency picked us up in a taxi to our guesthouse for two days, Riverfront. The hotel was nice, with large rooms featuring mosquito nets, a small kitchenette, and a huge bathroom. There was also a balcony overlooking the river, where water had only arrived the day before. Massive electric fences separated the garden from the river—hard to tell if they were for animals or thieves, probably both, especially since rising water attracts hippos and crocs. We took a walk along the river, and the two French guys from the agency joined us, confirming they’d be back the next afternoon for a briefing. We ordered food to be delivered to the hotel—too lazy to take a taxi.
After a good night’s sleep, we were ready for the 4x4 briefing. We’d rented two Hilux trucks with rooftop tents for the two of us.
We spent nearly three hours going over mechanics, camping gear, setting up and taking down the tents, tire management for different terrains, water and fuel tanks—basically, we *think* we’re ready. Time to grab food and do some shopping. We already got lost in town—this bodes well for the rest of the trip.
We decided to eat at a sort of chicken fast-food place in Maun Mall, called Chicken Liken. What a mess. You order, but you have no idea how to get your food. The overwhelmed cashier checked our order four times, forgot Cochies’ dish, and the food was cold. Avoid this place. The supermarket was well-stocked, but with health restrictions, we had to rely on a lot of canned goods. This whole errand took up the entire day. Looks like we’ll be eating a lot of corned beef—should be interesting. After a good shower, Nadette took us to Boma, a really nice restaurant with a touristy but fun vibe. One more good night’s sleep, and the adventure begins!
I would wish never to go to bed where I had woken up, to wander my tent from the shores of Egypt to those of the Persian Gulf; to have no goal for the evening other than the evening itself; to traverse on foot, with my eyes and my heart, all these unknown lands, all these races of people so different from my own; to contemplate humanity, God’s finest creation, in all its forms.
Lamartine in Fatalla Sayeghir’s Account (1861)
As soon as it’s about flying, I lose all willpower. Being reasonable and thoughtful, I still lose all my composure at the mere possibility of a flight—especially if it’s piloted by F.—and even more so if that flight can take me to unexplored lands. I’ve long wanted to unravel the mystery of animal tourism, and why not in Tanzania, following up on my trip from four years ago, when I was already questioning the glaring inequalities in Zanzibar: the coastal strip sacrificed to capitalism, and the inland areas, just a hundred meters from the waves, where you find—though a bit more peaceful than elsewhere on the continent—the chaos of Africa.
I’m an adventurer at heart. When it comes to the terrain, though, it’s a whole different story. I see people setting off for months at a time; I know my endurance doesn’t last beyond three days. It’s not that I’m afraid of this unfamiliar environment when it comes to embracing different realities. I’m mostly afraid of myself—of this heightened sensitivity that makes me see things I’d rather not see and understand others that sometimes overwhelm me.
After an absolutely fantastic daytime flight, I land in Zanzibar and have to resign myself—this is the whole point of the trip—to what feels like a real spacewalk. I’m alone. My lucky star, backed up by my phone, will serve as my lifeline. I step out of the airport and breathe in the scent of Africa full-on: a mix of exotic perfumes, baked earth, and poorly refined fuel, inevitably mingled with the smell of wood smoke. So many images come flooding back. So many stories. Another world.
I head to Arusha the very next day. The gateway to the country’s northern national parks, this city of half a million offers one of those rare breath-holding dives that Africa keeps secret. As the only white person walking the streets, I know I’m visible and vulnerable, yet I move forward confidently, barely bothered. But where are all my fellow Westerners? While this city draws countless tourists, I only cross paths with one white couple in nearly three hours of walking. Because you have to hold on tight to wander here. You have to stay alert. The traffic is dense and erratic—don’t even trust the fact that in Tanzania, people drive on the left. That can change from one minute to the next, especially with motorbikes. With barely centimeters between vehicles, I weave my way through the urban jungle, trying not to stumble into the huge ditch on my left or get sideswiped by cars brushing past me on the right. Speakers blare music, ads, or political speeches at will—the explosion of yellow and green tells us we’re on the eve of the presidential election—but they barely compete with the calls to prayer, nearly nonstop on this holy Friday. The vital space is as saturated as the sound. Imagine an unbroken line of shops and stalls of every kind—supermarkets haven’t made it here yet—where you can find just about anything: phones, copper pipes, Chinese-made hardware, shoes, clothes, basins, and professional tools… The luckiest own a big store; others spend their lives trying to survive on the profits from selling toothbrushes one at a time on the streets. But maybe it’s more lucrative than spending the day slumped on the sidewalk, preferably missing a limb, trusting your survival to the mercy of passersby.
I think I’ll escape the street by slipping into the narrow alleys of the central market. Here, I know I won’t run into anyone like me! The vendors’ stalls start at waist height; the sellers, perched higher up, haggle or not while discussing prices. Here, colorful fruits and vegetables; there, huge piles of dried fish. Spices, seeds, roots. Smells. Noises. Africa. Life. Further on, the fresh fish aisle makes a right angle with the butchers’. Everywhere, flies—everywhere, the same gesture from vendors swatting blindly at these relentless pests. Aware that I’ll be eating this same meat within the hour, displayed with total disregard for basic hygiene, I reassure myself that Arusha sits at 1400m altitude. Yes, we can probably do without a fridge.
*
It’s time to leave the city and go wildlife spotting in the surrounding parks. To that end, I’ve negotiated a package deal with a local agency that prides itself on grouping solo travelers into a vehicle meant for seven. We leave behind the imposing masses of Mount Meru and Kilimanjaro, peaking at 4565m and 5895m respectively, and head west to conquer Tarangire and Ngorongoro parks. I’ve been promised a spectacle; I remain cautious. I’ve read rave reviews; I know how to temper my expectations. Above all, I know what I came for—and paradoxically, my hopes are less about animals than strictly anthropological. So I’m sure I won’t go home disappointed.
I’m in the thick of it. Since 2021, tourism has been booming: I’m one of the two million tourists who come here every year seeking thrills. I also contribute, in a small way, to the 20% of the country’s GDP generated by tourism revenue. Around 3 billion € annually… Tanzania has 16 national parks, twice as many reserves; it charges meticulously for every entry, every night, every activity, to the tune of several dozen euros. I calculated that Tarangire Park alone rakes in around 15 million € a year. Mind-boggling. Yet to get there, a dusty, rickety old track is used daily by hundreds of vehicles that literally saturate the surrounding area with white dust and exhaust fumes. At the park entrance, we wait a good hour while the driver pays the entry fees. Then it’s a free-for-all: dozens of 4x4s try to enter at the same time through the single access point, to the left of the building, while the three barriers are stuck due to a computer glitch. It’s pure chaos: no way to buy your ticket in advance—the QR code revolution hasn’t arrived; no smart layout before the barriers; nothing smooth, nothing practical, everything improvised.
So, the animals? Given the time and money involved, I’d be tempted to say it’s not worth the hassle and there’s really no need to break five legs off one of the too-many zebras we pass. Hours and hours of travel to get to Tanzania, specifically Arusha; hours and hours on the road—up to 12 hours a day—to spend barely three in the parks; at least 200 € per day for the most basic option, so 400 € in my case, and up to several thousand for those wealthy couples opting for the luxury package with a private vehicle. Sure, I saw zebras and elephants in their natural habitat, wildebeest, buffalo, and a few hippos, but I didn’t feel the thrill touted in the articles or even by my two-day trip organizer. Would I have been more satisfied if I’d seen the lion, the leopard, and the rhino? Maybe. But the story won’t be rewritten in light of those assumptions.
Yet I’m not disappointed. As I said earlier: I know what I came for. I wanted to see the world as it is with my own eyes. And the safari world fascinates me more for its anthropological aspect than for what it offers. Yes, the fact that people from all over the world come here, juggling hotels and big 4x4s—while notably avoiding the streets of cities and villages—truly fascinates me. Two worlds coexist on either side of a barely porous border. As soon as the tourist sets foot in the airport, they’re whisked away, sight unseen, into a tourist vehicle. Dropped off at the hotel, they rest there, shielded from view, until the 4x4 departs. Then they speed through those same cities and villages they scorn out of fear or disdain, leaving on the roadside the Maasai herding their flocks and all those poignant or mundane scenes that make up daily African life. In the evening, in their lodge, far from the city’s pulse, they fall asleep thinking about the images they’ve collected, those long hours on the road, the wait for the animals. And the days go by… Maybe the term *luxury*, whether for food or accommodation, refers to what we experience as utterly ordinary in the West? Forgetting that you’re there, in Africa, just steps away from poverty and a certain arbitrariness. And at the end of the journey: back to the airport, back to normal life.
Maybe we need to take a broader view. All that money seems invisible, yet it must serve the population at some point, right? The main roads are passable, the power grid seems well-maintained—I can tell by the excellent condition of the high-voltage transmission towers. Is it really too expensive to significantly improve all the infrastructure? I hoped this windfall would truly serve the people’s interests. The driver taking me back to the airport on the last evening dashes my sweet illusions: « All this is bad. Africa is bad. But you have no choice. The hospitals don’t work, the schools don’t work, the roads don’t work (just as he says this, roadworks force us onto a terrible detour for several kilometers—a rutted track, in fact), and if you say anything, if you speak up too much, they come for you and then you disappear. » That’s just one opinion. Nothing empirical. But I don’t need to be a West Point graduate to realize how rampant corruption is in these regions: while the muezzin bellows the greatness of Allah, I consider the dilapidated equipment and the energy expended by the masses just to survive here. But maybe all that money keeps the country afloat by paying civil servants’ salaries? Meanwhile, one thing is certain: regardless of where the profits go, tourism supports millions of people, and I’m in no position to judge this system too harshly. Maybe I’m too much of an aesthete to appreciate the almost exclusive use of corrugated iron at its true value…
*
I’ll give this system credit for one thing: the chance to set foot in spaces impossible to visit otherwise. At one point, in the heart of the Ngorongoro Crater—a vast 20km-wide plain topped by a 600m-high caldera—I was simply happy to be there. Barely bothered by the constant ballet of 4x4s—the space is vast—I contemplate the simple life of the local animals. Buffalo, wildebeest, zebras as numerous as the flamingos patiently standing on one leg, waiting for the day to pass. Over there, you can make out a few hyenas with vultures circling above. Finally, in a large body of water, hippos surface at regular intervals. I’m aware of my luck. I’m especially aware that, unlike all the people I’ve met there, a lot of money and a little resourcefulness greatly favor the luck factor.
I’m heading home. I soak up the last images of this improbable Africa as night falls quickly over the countryside. I’m fascinated by the number of Maasai herding their livestock along the main road. Some pass the time, globalization obliges, on an old phone; others, sometimes as young as my eldest—barely 10 years old—watch us pass, indifferent. We overtake or are overtaken; the two-lane road is the stage for a majestic ballet of semi-trailers, *dalas-dalas*, and other 4x4s, as numerous as the names of their companies: Leopard Tours, Climbing Kilimanjaro, Smiling Zebra, Nomad Life Enhanced, Elephant Roaming, Mountain Warrior, Master of the Ambush… They drop me off at the hotel, where I have an hour to shower and change into clean clothes before my return flight. Already, I’m slipping back into my own world without really seeing it, leaving behind the hotel’s glass window that African life to which nothing truly binds me. Then that chaotic, suffocating nighttime drive to the airport. Check-in; the stupid questions (« Where are you going? »); the slow police officer who, in the end, stamps my passport anywhere; the idiocy of the security agent (my empty 33cl bottle is forbidden); the rather shabby lounge at Kilimanjaro Airport. Then the return to the vessel—to the Air France plane that left Zanzibar an hour earlier—after this 72-hour spacewalk without a real lifeline. I’ve never been so happy to see F. again.
The roads in this area aren’t great. I should’ve taken the N1 and gone via Musina...
A massive storm on the road... 60 km away, hazard lights on...
Mapungubwe isn’t new to me, but I’d decided to try the western part, at Limpopo Tented Camp.
Upon arrival...
“Sorry, a tree fell on one of the chalets...” “We’ll put you up for the first night at Leokwe, in the eastern part.”
From what they said, it happened yesterday... but on-site, we saw it had actually been several months!
Sanparks’ management is still very much “outside usual standards.”
There’s constantly work being done “haphazardly,” shoddily, poorly...
And the welcome from staff really depends on the person and the day.
Oh well, no big deal—we’ll spend a night at Leokwe!
The eastern part “normally” doesn’t have lions... there are several spots where you can get out of the car...
We saw general game, buffaloes, elephants... leopards (yes, see another travel journal), and now possibly cheetahs in the far eastern section.
Our friend Montagnard had asked me (following another discussion) if I knew any truly ethical associations...
I’d pointed him to a cheetah conservation group.
I can confirm—they’re the ones who released several cheetahs into this part of Mapungubwe.
Leokwe is stunning, unfenced... with a pretty high chance of seeing elephants in the camp, drinking from the pool or brushing past the chalet terraces.
This area is still a fantastic spot for spectacular wildlife sightings and insane landscapes!
Since Voyage Forum is restarting after a few years of hiatus, I couldn’t find any recent info about my trip between late November 2024 and January 20, 2025, going from DAR ES SALAAM to the Cape Town area via ZAMBIA and BOTSWANA.
I’m really happy the site is back up, but I’ve noticed more and more people planning their trips down to the day, mentioning what they’ve scheduled and asking for technical advice for their 4x4 routes.
That’s not how I travel at all—I prefer to leave a lot to the unexpected, like public transport (and the weather) and the people you meet along the way.
The tips I’m sharing below come from the current situation, the randomness that makes unplanned trips special, and the strong connections you can make when you take your time without knowing what tomorrow will bring.
😏 TANZANIA:
I had booked a TAZARA train ticket via WhatsApp before leaving to go from DAR ES SALAAM to MBEYA near the Zambian border. I’d contacted the station manager in Dar at +255 713 413 141, who kindly confirmed my reservation. Unfortunately, the train was out of service for an indefinite period, so I had to take the bus from the new Mwenge bus station on the city’s outskirts (allow extra time to get there—traffic is heavy).
There’s no longer a direct train to ZAMBIA. You have to get off at MBEYA, then take a bus to the TUNDUMA border (2 hours to the bus station, then a 2 km taxi ride to the border). Crossing is easy—visa is free, no no-man’s-land, and you arrive directly in NAKONDE, Zambia. Exchange money on the Zambian side, but don’t change with the first person you see—check the rate first.
I preferred to stop for the night in IRINGA since I took the bus at 4 PM. I arrived at 2 AM at Georges’ place, who picked me up directly from the bus station (several km from town). I’d booked the accommodation via Booking under Travellers Backpackers and Free City Tours. Georges and his employee were extremely helpful—they organized my bus trip to MBEYA the next day (bought the ticket and dropped me off, no commission).
The place is decent, clean, and comfortable (10 € per night). Georges also organizes tours and safaris in the area (+255 679 529 700 direct).
In MBEYA, I stayed at Karibuni Center Hotel (a quiet evangelical convent, very friendly and open to everyone, 13 € per night with breakfast). You can eat at a restaurant across the street. The rooms are clean and quiet (contact +255 754 510 174).
To head to Lake MALAWI or the tea fields in TUKUYU, it’s best to take a moto-taxi from MBEYA to the Uyole junction. From there, you’ll find minibuses heading south frequently—change buses in TUKUYU (the tea fields are 4-5 km away).
😏 ZAMBIA:
In NAKONDE, I highly recommend Izukanji Lodge—very quiet and clean, 2 km from the station (take a moto-taxi). The main building’s rooms are pricier than the annex across the street (where the restaurant and pool are). The rooms are just as clean and quiet but only 10 €, breakfast included. Contact the manager directly on WhatsApp at +260 979 649 452. If it’s full, try Divine Guest House (+260 973 127 816).
The train isn’t always on time—if you catch it on the scheduled day, consider yourself lucky. The stationmaster, Mr. Chulu, is lovely. Contact him on WhatsApp at +260 777 550 302 for real-time updates. First-class berths are great (4 per compartment), 15 € one-way to KAPIRI MPOSHI. There always seems to be space. Book two berths if you want extra comfort. No need to bring food—the dining car serves decent meals, and there’s a bar.
In KAPIRI MPOSHI, I stayed at Kapiri Council Lodge, 2 km from the train station. It’s okay, but there are often power outages in the evening, which means no water either. You’ll have to wait until 8 PM. Breakfast is very basic.
For LUSAKA, there are plenty of buses in the morning from the downtown bus station (2-3 hours). The best companies are Power Tools (yellow buses) or UBZ if you can find it (the best in Zambia—Western comfort).
In LUSAKA, use Yango taxis (download the app—it’s like Uber in Zambia, very affordable). I stayed at Natwange (Hostelworld chain), reachable at +260 966 303 816. It’s a beautiful, quiet place 3-4 km from downtown, very shady, with a pool. The rooms are clean and comfortable, and the food is excellent (great salads). The staff is super friendly, as they are everywhere in the country. There’s also a mini-supermarket nearby with everything, including takeout meals.
Book your bus ticket to LIVINGSTONE at least the day before (UBZ). The trip is pleasant.
In LIVINGSTONE, many backpackers stay at Jolly Boys—it’s a nice place to relax by the pool with a beer at the end of the day, but it’s mostly a party hostel for young people doing rafting or canyoning on the Zambezi (pricier than elsewhere).
For those who prefer peace and quiet, I highly recommend Likute Guest House on the same street, right near Jolly Boys. The rooms are decent for 10 €, breakfast included (same price as a dorm at JB). You can order dinner in advance. The staff is friendly.
Great value at Da Canton restaurant on the main road (pizza, pasta, meat, salads, etc.). The Livingstone Museum is worth a visit if you have time.
At the bottom of Kapondo Street, you can take a shared taxi to Victoria Falls or even to KAZUNGULA at the Botswana border (cheap—the taxi leaves when full).
People short on time often compare the views of Victoria Falls from the Zambian side (20 $) and the Zimbabwean side (30 $). Honestly, they’re very different, and it’s worth seeing the falls from Zimbabwe even if it’s pricier (visa required, easy to get at the border—everything is done on foot). Cross the bridge where you can bungee jump. Take your time at the falls—it’s truly stunning. You can visit Zimbabwe for half a day and stay in Zambia (cheaper, since everything in Zimbabwe is paid in dollars).
There’s more water on the Zimbabwean side, but the Zambian side is beautiful too.
😏 BOTSWANA:
Crossing the border at KAZUNGULA from Zambia is quick and easy (brand-new bridge over the Zambezi). Visa is free. Don’t exchange money at the border. There’s a shopping center 1 km away (Choppies store) with an ATM (no commission). I hitched a ride with tourists to the bank since they had a car.
In the shopping center parking lot, you can easily find a shared taxi to KASANE. In the area, you can get around easily by shared taxi (just give the name of your guesthouse, and the drivers will tell you which vehicle to take). The fare is fixed (0.50 €).
I stayed at Elephant Trail GH and Backpackers—a great spot where you can stay in a 4-bed dorm for 10 €. There are also huts for two in the garden (clean and comfortable) with a pool. You can order dinner (great food) or cook your own meals. The place is quiet and friendly (they organize safaris with early-morning pickups for Chobe and evening boat trips in the Kwando marshes to see animals).
I preferred flying (Air Botswana) with a friend to MAUN (55 €) instead of taking an 8-10 hour bus (tickets can be bought directly at the airport).
In MAUN, I stayed at Jayla Homestay with Mapula (+267 71 658 737)—a wonderful, kind woman always ready to help. The homestay is in a beautiful family home 3-4 km from downtown, past the Kwanokeng gas station. It’s easy to get there by shared taxi from the downtown taxi stand near Shoprite.
Mapula cooks refined, varied meals on request. She also organizes safaris in the OKAVANGO with morning pickups from the guesthouse (picnic included) at a great price. Her rooms are comfortable and very clean (microwave, coffee/tea, and kettle available).
The day trip by canoe in the OKAVANGO marshes is a must. However, we saw very few animals because the rainy season had started (zebras, giraffes, buffaloes, hippos). The atmosphere, serenity, and changing light throughout the day were remarkable.
Direct flight from MAUN to CAPE TOWN with Airlink for 280 € on December 24.
😏 SOUTH AFRICA:
In Cape Town, I stayed at Sunflower Stop Backpackers in the Green Point neighborhood—very quiet and safe. This hostel is perfect for meeting travelers of all ages. Everything is nearby (supermarkets, bars, restaurants, the sea, the park, tourist areas, the stadium, Sea Point, and the Waterfront).
I spent 13 days in Cape Town and always found something to do—this city is so pleasant to live in, welcoming, and packed with sports and cultural activities. Don’t miss the Minstrel Carnival in early January if you’re in the area.
Kalk Bay beach (with its colorful beach huts) is worth the detour on the way to SIMON’S TOWN and Boulders Beach. Stop for lunch at Salt in FISH HOEK—the homemade ravioli and fish are amazing. Everything is excellent there.
At Boulders Beach, when you arrive at the main beach after the entrance gate, don’t hesitate to wade into the water up to your waist if the tide is high and head straight past the northern end of the beach—the penguins are farther out.
Beautiful beach and sunset at Scarborough Beach.
I took the 8-day Bazbus pass (134 €) for the Garden Route and stopped in STELLENBOSCH on the last day of my loop back to Cape Town. This lets you extend the trip to 10 days if you stay 2 nights in STELLENBOSCH, since it’s easy and cheap to get back to Cape Town with an Uber. I really liked this Bazbus option—it’s convenient because they drop you off and pick you up directly at your chosen hostel or hotel.
I loved HERMANUS, even though I didn’t see any whales. The atmosphere is very British and classy. The coastline is beautiful and rugged. Don’t miss the walk to Mosselberg, which overlooks the entire bay.
MOSSEL BAY is more working-class and run-down—nothing particularly interesting, in my opinion. In WILDERNESS, try to stay at Beach House Backpackers Lodge. The sea view is stunning, even from the dorm.
In KNYSNA, Thesen Island is overrated—it’s full of soulless new buildings. Prefer Leisure Island, which is just as busy with wealthy owners but nice for walks and swimming. Head to The Heads to wander the coastal trails with incredible views of the bay. Don’t hesitate to explore the heart of the artistic Concordia neighborhood (Rastafarian) to Judah Square on your own. The locals are warm and laid-back. No need to go through a tour operator.
Anchorage restaurant is excellent for refined dishes and a great variety of food.
In STELLENBOSCH, I stayed at Just a Bed (booked for one person on Booking). Don’t hesitate to contact the owner—she has several rooms in her guesthouse. The place is cozy and charming. The town is pleasant but feels disconnected from the surrounding population. You can walk to the Lanzerac vineyard, but don’t miss Boschendal a few kilometers away on the way to FRANSCHHOEK.
People talk a lot about safety in South Africa, but as long as you respect the local norms, everything goes smoothly—the people are really welcoming, no matter their social background.
Last year, I stumbled upon a "nature reserve" in the Waterberg by sheer luck.
Just one night, but I was so thrilled that I went back this year for three nights.
It was perfect for breaking up the trip between Marakele and Mapungubwe.
The Waterberg is the Limpopo of game farms, hunting farms... and places trying to attract clients from Joburg and Kruger, with varying levels of ethics.
The roads aren’t always great, potholes are everywhere, and Google Maps is pretty unreliable.
But in my case, I found exactly what I was looking for...
As often happens, old farms have been grouped together to create a nature reserve that doesn’t sell you "wild" lions, has no rhinos (protecting rhinos is complicated), no elephants, and no buffalo.
So, antelopes, elusive leopards, hyenas (didn’t see any), peaceful giraffes, warthogs, etc.—just general game!
What’s the point?
Well, you go for walks or hikes with game drives... you bike... you chill. You get out of the car.
For us this year, a gorgeous "house," fully equipped, on the edge of the forest, with wood for the fire and a plain as the view...
An unbeatable quality-to-price ratio in a natural setting!
A little photo dump for the vibe.
You’ve gathered that part of the exploration is by car (it’s big) and part on foot...
Back in 2009, I spent a day there, and since then... I’ve tried several times to go back.
The park isn’t very big—nowhere near as lush as Kruger—but it has a lot going for it.
Even back then, there was a split between the western section, where you wouldn’t find any “dangerous” animals like elephants or buffalo (though rhinos were around), and the eastern section, the Big Five zone.
Nowadays, the western part is open to mountain biking, and the campsite is completely unfenced, which pretty much confirms that the big animals aren’t there—no rhinos either (I didn’t see a single dung pile).
The western section didn’t seem all that interesting to me... with vervet monkeys everywhere in the campsite.
In the eastern part, there’s the Topli tented camp, right by a dam. It’s small but charming, with a great view and a loosely fenced perimeter (there are now lions and wild dogs in this area).
No facilities—no restaurant, no pool (except at the campsite), no shop, no fuel, nothing...
View from the “chalet” terrace... nice and relaxed...
So, a terrace with a view for the lucky ones...
Bedroom and bathroom, separate and equipped kitchen. It can get windy. It must be cold in winter... but it’s hot this October.
Some lovely little roads... though some sections are 4x4-friendly.
A viewpoint at the top—you’re supposed to see the vulture colony from there... still haven’t seen it, as far as I’m concerned.
I’d like to invite you on a new adventure in Kenya.
Back in 2010, my husband Ben and I fell in love with Kenya, and we’ve been traveling there regularly ever since. This 2025 safari marked the first weeks of an important milestone in my life: retirement.
Of course, Felix—our guide and friend for all these years, whom some of you may even know from this forum—joined us again.
We chose an itinerary that takes us through the parks and reserves we particularly love in Kenya: Tsavo East (3 nights), Tsavo West (2 nights), a transition day in Embu, Samburu (5 nights), Meru NP (4 nights), Nanuyki to visit the Mount Kenya Animal Orphanage (https://mountkenyawildlifeconservancy.org/) (1 night), and Aberdare NP (2 nights).
This safari wasn’t our most prolific in terms of wildlife sightings and photos (all taken by Ben), but I still think it’s worth sharing our experiences and impressions of the places we visited. Maybe other travelers will find useful information here to help them fulfill their dream of a Kenyan safari one day...
Living in Brittany, we left from Nantes on Wednesday, January 8, 2025, on the 6 AM Air France flight to CDG, then took the direct flight to Nairobi at 10:50 AM. No issues this time on either flight (unlike in October 2023...).
We arrived in Nairobi at 9:20 PM local time (there’s a two-hour time difference with France at this time of year). Going through passport control and collecting our luggage went smoothly. The hotel shuttle (https://67airporthotel.co.ke/) was waiting for us. We shared it with a friendly Swiss couple who were there to climb Mount Kenya. We arrived at the hotel around midnight.
The 67 Airport Hotel is 10-15 minutes from Jomo Kenyatta Airport and offers great value for money. Plus, it’s close to the Mombasa road, which is handy when heading that way the next morning.
On Thursday, January 9, we had breakfast at the hotel restaurant at 6:30 AM, and as planned, Felix arrived around 7 AM. We got to check out his brand-new 4x4 Nissan—we’d be the first to test it! 🙂
We set off for Voi, making our usual stop in Mtito Andei. Traffic was heavy on the Mombasa road, with lots of trucks.
We found Tsavo East unusually green—there had been heavy rains in December, which isn’t typical. As a result, the animals were scattered and harder to spot. The watering hole visible from the camp’s dining area was completely deserted, whereas it’s usually bustling with herds of elephants and other mammals.
Our tent, No. 9, for 3 nights.
This camp is well-located inside the park. It’s simple but comfortable enough for our tastes, the staff is super friendly (as is often the case in Kenya), and the buffet-style meals are varied and good. Tsavo is the main destination for tourists staying on the coast who come for a night or two on safari. In January, some days at the camp are very quiet, while some evenings, the restaurant is packed with groups (lots of Italians, in particular).
Tsavo is, of course, famous for its elephants. This time, we didn’t see many large herds, but we did have some great encounters with solitary males.
Around this small watering hole, we saw a gathering of African open-billed storks—we’d never seen so many before!
I’d love to share a little travel journal from our 14-day/12-night road trip with our two teens (14 and 17) in February/March 2020.
A huge thank you to all of you who helped me plan this trip to South Africa—your patience with my endless questions was amazing!
We left Lyon on Saturday, February 22 at 7:00 AM and arrived in Johannesburg at 10:00 PM after a short layover in Amsterdam. Flights cost 440 € per person (booked in October), with carry-on luggage. We added just one checked bag for the whole family (80 € round-trip with the free Flying Blue membership). Since we’d be moving around a lot, we packed light! In Lyon, we reserved parking at P5 in advance for 70 € for 14 days. The Air France/KLM flight was smooth.
When we landed, we picked up our bags and had booked a night at the Aero Guest Lodge, just 5 minutes from the airport, with a free shuttle and breakfast.
All you have to do is send a WhatsApp message when you arrive at the airport to let the shuttle driver know. The tricky part? Finding him in the terminal—he wasn’t holding a sign with the hotel’s name. 🤪 A South African called him for me since my English wasn’t great (and I had to get used to the accent 😛), and helped us spot the driver (who was actually less than 5 meters away!) with other guests.
When we got to the hotel: all good, except we were 10 people in a van meant for 7.
The room was spacious—one king-size bed and two single beds for the kids—with a simple but clean bathroom, a garden, pool, and breakfast (which we didn’t try). All for 65 €, so an awesome value!
After a restful night, we woke up at 6:00 AM to catch the shuttle back to the airport. Just a heads-up: there’s only one shuttle per hour in the morning, and Kulula canceled our 9:00 AM flight, moving it to 8:00 AM—so no time for breakfast (it starts at 6:30).
We waited 15 minutes in the lovely garden for the driver, who dropped us off at the airport in 5 minutes.
We checked in for our flight to Cape Town, which cost around 40 € (including two checked bags per person).
We grabbed breakfast at the airport instead (less than 20 € for all four of us—one of the nice surprises of South Africa!), and arrived in Cape Town at 10:20 AM.
After quickly picking up our bags, we headed to the Avis counter and left with a Toyota Corolla for 80 € for 4 days (rented with the Flying Blue card—free additional driver).
Everything’s on the left... not easy, but it works if you plan your route well.
We drove to our Airbnb in Constantia. We were surprised to see animals, bikes, and pedestrians on the highway!
We arrived around 11:30 AM at our rental—a huge house in the vineyards, in a super secure neighborhood, about 15-20 minutes from Hout Bay. It felt like Beverly Hills, but with super-high walls and barbed wire around the villas. 😕
We dropped off our bags, changed into shorts (it was around 30°C/86°F), and headed to the Bay Harbour Market in Hout Bay.
We had lunch there—such a great vibe! We wandered through the stalls, everyone picked their own dish, and we sat down on the terrace. There was music, artisans of all kinds... a really nice moment.
I’d withdrawn 50 € before leaving... and that gave me change to pay the parking attendant. Lunch cost around 30 € for four, including food and drinks.
After browsing the artisan stalls, we headed to Hout Bay Beach near the restaurant, Marina Wharf (another small tip for the parking attendant—we’d have to get used to that!). We stopped to admire the sea lions. An ice cream for 1 €? No way we were saying no! 🙂
The fatigue was starting to hit, so we headed to the grocery store 10 minutes away (Constantia shopping center) and then had an aperitif in front of the vineyards, opening a delicious bottle of white wine.
After using this forum a lot to plan several trips, I’m finally writing my own travel journal about South Africa, a trip that took place from May 14 to 31, 2025.
I hope to inspire but mostly to share info and details for those like me who need to plan their trip as precisely as possible to make the most of it once there.
This is our first trip to Africa outside the Maghreb for my wife and me. What follows is, of course, just my opinion and very subjective.
You’ll easily understand that my goal isn’t to debate my choice of destinations or activities since everyone has their own travel style and beliefs. I just want to share. Thanks in advance.
We booked our tickets with Emirates for the routes: Lyon-Dubai, Dubai-Johannesburg on the way out. For the return, it was Cape Town-Dubai, Dubai-Lyon.
The tickets cost us 1400 € for two, booked in December. I monitored prices for several weeks, and they didn’t tend to drop. I think I got the flight tickets at the right time because alerts I set on different sites showed prices only going up.
Here’s our itinerary:
Day 1: Arrival at Johannesburg airport, pick up the rental car, and head to Hartbeespoort (northwest of Pretoria): overnight in Hartbeespoort.
Day 2: Visit the Elephant Sanctuary + Monkey Sanctuary + cableway: overnight in Hartbeespoort.
Day 3: Head to Ukutula, visit the site.
Day 4: Head to Kruger Park, transition day: overnight in Dullstroom.
Day 5: Head to Blyde River Canyon, visit the viewpoints (more details in the journal later): overnight in Graskop.
Day 6: Hike the Leopard Trail (Blyde River Canyon) then return to Kruger Park: overnight at Pretoriuskop rest camp.
Days 7 & 8: Visit Kruger Park: overnights at Lower Sabie rest camp.
Days 9 & 10: Visit Kruger Park: overnights at Berg-En-Dal rest camp.
Day 11: Visit Kruger Park: overnight in Malelane.
Day 12: Domestic flight to Cape Town: overnight in Cape Town (Mouille Point neighborhood).
Days 13 to 17: Visit Cape Town and its surroundings (more details in the journal later): overnight in Cape Town (Mouille Point neighborhood).
Before describing our trip in more detail, here’s some practical info about the stay:
For internet, I got Bouygues Telecom’s travel pass for 35 € on top of my regular plan with them. It worked well except in Kruger. Otherwise, I hardly had any network coverage issues.
For all accommodations and car rentals, I used Booking.com. No bad surprises.
As a huge Asia lover, I don’t usually post trip reports here since I find it so easy to get around in those countries (whether online beforehand or on the spot). But after 15 days in Zanzibar, I figured our experience (we’re traveling as a couple) might help some of you.
To sum it up, this island is absolutely stunning but not exactly a walk in the park for independent travelers!
**TRANSPORTATION**
Since we’re not Bill Gates, we have to make choices—especially in Zanzibar, which is way pricier than Asia.
One option was taking the *dalla dalla* (local minibuses) to get around the island, but it was just too complicated for us. For example, going from Nungwi to Matemwe takes half an hour by car but hours by *dalla dalla* because you *have* to go back through the capital!
Taking taxis from one hotel to another didn’t interest us since we see travel as a way to immerse ourselves in the country and get as close to locals as possible (sounds a bit pompous, but I couldn’t find a better way to put it!!).
So, we decided to rent a car to move freely and stop wherever we wanted. If you’re looking for info on the Dolphin Tour, Spice Tour, or Safari Blue… you can skip this part—we didn’t do any of that (I know, it’s a shame, but we can’t do everything, right? 😉). There are agencies everywhere that can organize those for you without any hassle.
Long story short, after some searching, we rented a car from Ally Keys (found on *Le Routard*), a small Toyota 4x4 for $350 for 11 days (we drove about 900 km and spent 80 € on gas).
The roads are basically wide boulevards—just watch out for pedestrians and cyclists constantly. Once you leave Stone Town, though, there’s hardly any traffic.
**The police—quite the love story for us!!** First off, no paranoia needed: police checkpoints stop *every* car, not just the ones with "white" people.
In 11 days of driving around the island, we were stopped… 13 times, no joke!!
Every time, they asked for our international driver’s permit and the Tanzanian permit Ally gave us for free before we left. They were all super friendly and didn’t give us any trouble (a few words in Swahili can help). Except once, when they noticed the insurance had expired *two days* earlier 🤪.
We hadn’t paid attention, and neither had Ally—our bad.
It turned into quite the scene, lasting about 2 hours, but Ally, who we called, negotiated with them. The fine went from $200 down to $20, and Ally even reimbursed us afterward!! Quite the experience, to say the least.
**THE PEOPLE**
Okay, I’ll try to explain our experience *without getting "stoned," please*. I’m not judging anyone—I just want to share what we felt during these 15 days (way too short to really understand, of course).
My go-to motto, "If you smile, they’ll smile back," didn’t really work there. We found the locals weren’t exactly approachable, especially the women.
That said, we *did* meet some genuinely kind and selfless people: one in Stone Town, sometimes in the local eateries where we ate, and with hitchhikers (male and female) we picked up whenever we saw them (the only way we found to share a bit of our "wealth" with them).
But overall, I found it *really* tough.
At the same time, it clarified things. Every time someone approached us in a friendly, warm way, they had something to offer (a restaurant, a shop to visit, a snorkeling tour, a taxi…). No issues with them—they were lovely, just like the staff at all the hotels we stayed in.
In Matemwe, we walked through the village every morning and evening for 5 days. I made an effort to smile and say hello every day, morning and night, but even by the end, the best I got was a nod.
We learned a few words in Swahili (hello, how are you…) to break the ice, but it was pretty much a lost cause, with a few exceptions.
Obviously, since I’d never experienced anything like this, I tried to find an explanation—but we were there too briefly to really figure it out. Here are my hypotheses:
- The strong Muslim presence (even little girls wear veils). Maybe they see us white people as "depraved," even though we always dressed modestly.
- Smiling might not be part of their communication style (sounds dumb, but you never know!).
- Maybe there’s some resentment toward white people, which, honestly, I’d totally understand. Let me explain: two worlds share this island without really mixing. 50% of tourists stay in Nungwi and Kendwa, 25% stay in resorts all around the island, 23% go from hotel to hotel by taxi or *dalla dalla*, and maybe 2% travel like we did (totally unscientific stats, obviously).
In 11 days of exploring the island (except Stone Town and the beaches), we *never* saw a white person outside a hotel or taxi (no exaggeration)—never in villages, markets…
Luxury resorts sit right next to villages in extreme poverty (no running water, no electricity, etc.), and the tourism money barely trickles down to locals. It’s enough to make you ashamed of being white—I felt that way more than once!
Anyway, if anyone here knows Zanzibaris well, I’d *love* to hear their perspective.
**PHOTOS**
Given what I just said, you can imagine it wasn’t easy.
The women were the hardest to approach—I gave up on taking their photos after 3 or 4 clear refusals (they’d cover their faces, not angrily, but firmly).
Most men I asked agreed.
With kids, anything goes:
- Some pose for a photo and laugh hysterically when they see themselves.
- Some pose but then demand a dollar, shillings, pens, or even your hair tie if that’s all you’ve got!!
Some happily agree when you ask, while others shout a big "Nooooo" or even threaten to throw rocks at you *before* you’ve even turned on your camera!!
Once again, I put myself in their shoes and watched how "white" people behave. They walk by without a word, raise their camera, snap a shot, and leave without even a wave. When you see yourself in that mirror, it really puts things into perspective!
**STONE TOWN**
Like everyone else, we started our trip in Stone Town—one of the most beautiful cities I’ve ever seen (no exaggeration!). Despite being super touristy, it’s managed to keep its soul, which is pretty rare.
The sea and its *dhows* (boats with triangular sails straight out of another era), colonial buildings everywhere (some renovated, others run-down but still beautiful), narrow alleys with stunning doors (not just in hotels, as I thought), women in colorful veils all over the streets, the call to prayer echoing through the alleys, and, of course, the Darajani Street market—not to be missed if you want even a tiny taste of African life. Pure magic!
The only downside? Quite a few shady guys offering all kinds of services, some of them drug users and a bit unsettling (one even waited for hours outside our hotel after we told him we didn’t need anything). We stayed polite and friendly, and it went fine, but it did create a slightly "sketchy" vibe at times.
For our hotel, we spent the first two nights at Karibu Zanzibar Inn, found online for $65 a night. Right in the heart of the old town, perfect for us—clean, quiet, rooftop terrace for breakfast, welcoming staff. Nothing to complain about, except maybe the price!
For the last two nights before leaving, we found a place on the spot, super well-located, for $45 a night (DM me for details if you’re interested).
We also rented bikes to get around—great for $5 a day per bike.
**MONEY**
Money’s a bit tricky here, I found. Some hotels supposedly only accept dollars (not the ones we stayed in, though), and a lot of prices are listed in that currency. Either way, you can leave your euros at home—several exchange bureaus won’t take them. My advice? Bring enough dollars to avoid credit card fees (you can’t withdraw more than 190 € at a time from ATMs, so you’d pay a fee each time).
For our budget, we spent 800 € per person for 14 days, staying in hotels averaging $45 a night (not easy to find, by the way) and eating often in local eateries (more on that below). Meals in touristy restaurants cost between 6 and 9 € per person, a beer is 2 €, a Coke is 1 €…
Don’t forget, for two people: $100 for visas, $60 for airport-port round-trip taxis, and $160 for Dar-Stone Town round-trip boats.
**FOOD & ACCOMMODATION**
We ate in local restaurants about ten times: chicken or beef skewers with fries or rice for 1.50 € per person. But:
1 – You have to find the "restaurant" that doesn’t look like one (usually a roadside shack).
2 – With a shady spot to sit, which isn’t always possible.
3 – For the squeamish, hygiene conditions are *way* below standard (no fridge, well water used to wash dishes, flies everywhere)!!
We figured if locals eat there, it’s probably a good sign, and honestly, the food was good, and we never got sick.
Plus, it’s the best way to meet Zanzibaris.
Hotels were tough to find under $50. Thankfully, we had the car to scout around (prices in guidebooks had gone up!). We chose to stay 5 days in the north of the island (Matemwe) and 5 days in the south (Jambiani), which let us explore almost the whole island.
We decided that on the spot after checking things out.
In Matemwe, we didn’t overthink it—we stayed at Allykeys Bungalow, whose owner rented us the car! At first, we were a bit wary of his offer, but after checking it out, we loved it. Simple bungalows but with everything we needed, a great setting facing the sea, sun loungers to relax, a restaurant and bar by the water, and—best of all—a very local vibe (about 50 *dhows* leaving for fishing every morning between 5:30 and 6:00, and their return around 1:00 PM with haggling over fish prices on the beach—pure bliss).
Just so you know, it’s pretty noisy (I love the call to prayer, but at 4:30 and 5:30 AM, it’s *early*—especially when it goes on for so long!!), no hot water (just lukewarm), and no Wi-Fi. But for that, there’s a great deal at the Green… at the very north end of the beach. Just by ordering a drink (3 € for a beer, 2 € for a Coke), you can enjoy the Wi-Fi and pool all afternoon. Super friendly welcome at this luxury hotel, even for "bumpkins" like us!!
In Jambiani, we found Pakachi Beach Resort—a dream come true. Listed at over $60 online, they offered us a beachfront bungalow (a big bed downstairs, another upstairs with a sea view and ocean breeze included), a bathroom with hot water, Wi-Fi in common areas, and a pool (low tide is *really* low there!!) for $45 a night. It was so amazing we wondered if they mistook us for *Le Routard* guides since we arrived alone with our car!!
It was also super quiet—only three plugs in use, including ours, which might explain it!!
**THE BEACHES**
Quick rundown:
- The most beautiful aesthetically and for swimming anytime: Kendwa, no question. The downside? Way too many resorts for our taste and no local life. We went for a day before heading back to Matemwe.
- The most tourist-packed: Nungwi, obviously. Not our cup of tea, but I guess it’s great for young people who want to party.
- Best for local life: Matemwe, hands down. The daily fishing returns are a highlight, plus village life, seaweed gatherers, kids on the beach—we *loved* it.
- Best for peace and beauty (but no swimming at low tide): Pongwe, Uroa, Kiwengwa, Jambiani, and a special mention for Dongwe, which we found absolutely gorgeous.
- If you want to feel like you’re in the middle of nowhere but still by the water: Kae Kuu and Unguja Ukuu.
There you go—that’s pretty much everything we saw!
Sorry for the novel. I doubt many of you made it to the end of my "prose." At least no one can say I didn’t share my experience this time 😉.
As mentioned in the title, this is a travel journal focused on St. Lucia and iSimangaliso ("this place is miraculous" in Zulu) over various trips spanning about twenty years.
The Elephant Coast stretches from Hluhluwe Umfolozi, through St. Lucia and iSimangaliso, all the way to the Mozambique border near Kosi Bay and Tembe.
This region was conquered by the Zulus (for context, in the 19th century, the Zulus were just one Bantu group among many—it was a local Napoleon, Shaka, who was both cruel and inventive, conquering and subjugating all other groups to form the Zulu nation).
The Tonga were the big losers in this area, and a certain "animosity" is still very noticeable... With our two guides (one Zulu and the other Tonga), we ran into some Tonga folks—definitely not a warm atmosphere.
The Tonga were pushed back into the marshes. Fish traps are their main source of wealth. (iSimangaliso is a lagoon and marshland area with several interconnected lakes—it used to be called Vetland Park, and for good reason.)
So, lakes, fishing with fish traps...
Traditionally done with raffia boats
Made from forest raffia
Where we spotted a particularly rare and endemic bird (whose name I can’t remember... and I can’t be bothered to dig through my notes)
Here, those are eagles
And they’re pretty brave because... they’re not far away...
Yet we still swim there... with supervision...
So, between St. Lucia and Mozambique, you’ll find marshes, lagoons, lakes, and coastline, with our Tonga friends, Zulu friends, and—just a bit further up—the Tembe... and their king.
(I’m showing off a bit because I got to see a king up close, ate in the same room as him, and even talked to him!)
Originally, the Boers tried to farm there... including sugarcane...
But... between the hippos, snakes, crocs, and malaria-carrying mosquitoes...
They lost count of the deaths and disappearances.
The story goes that when Madiba (Mandela) came to power, he passed through the area and convinced them to turn it into a natural space that would attract tourists—and that’s when the big change happened.
And it’s pretty incredible to see how this place has evolved, going from extreme poverty to a certain level of gentrification...
How this once "chaotic" area saw shops, roads, and housing spring up (I’m mainly talking about Mtubatuba, the nearby Black town).
In fact, in St. Lucia now, the homes that aren’t tourist accommodations can be counted on one hand.
St. Lucia has become a "seaside resort"... very busy during school holidays and certain weekends, increasingly cosmopolitan (20 years ago, speaking French was exotic—now it’s completely ordinary).
I'm back in the "travel journal" section to share our 15-day adventure in Kenya in November 2024.
It was pretty much our first time in East Africa (since Zanzibar doesn’t really count 😜).
As usual, I’m sharing the journal I made for our loved ones—still as casual and cheerful as ever, just to give them a little break from their tough workdays 😄.
We organized the whole trip ourselves, and to be original here LOL, we took some *very* well-trodden paths: Naivasha, Tsavo, and Diani.
But what I loved about this country is that it’s so easy to go off the beaten track—even on the "tourist highways" 😉.
So, if you're a safari fanatic or after stunning wildlife photos, you might be disappointed. But if you want to discover other sides of Kenya, you might just find what you're looking for 😉.
Looking forward to sharing this fun journey with you all 😊.
Hi there,
It’s not always easy to pick where to stay in national parks... like Kruger, for example.
Below is an attempt to decode the different types and options...
Remember, to book in a national park, you do it through the Sanparks website, except in KwaZulu-Natal (KZN Wildlife).
Choosing the type of camp that suits you:
· Main Rest Camps, Satellite Camps, Bushveld Camps, Overnight Hides, Bush Lodges, Camp Site, Luxury Lodges
Main Rest Camps
These camps are usually quite large, even very large, like Skukuza. They have a fence! You can move around freely inside these camps at night with a torch. Staff are available, and there are security guards. Shops are more or less well-stocked but have the basics. You’ll find souvenir shops, restaurants, bars, and most often a pool. Depending on your choice, there are camping spots, chalets, huts, etc., with varying levels of comfort. Shared kitchens, shared bathrooms, or private facilities in each accommodation (see below).
This isn’t the "wild" version but rather the more luxurious and secure option.
Bushveld Camps
Smaller and more intimate, with some amenities, but no restaurants or shops. Check if there’s a fence.
Satellite Camps
Always close to the main camps (more or less). As a rule, you check in at the main camp. Comfort level is lower than the options above. Check if there’s a fence.
Camp Site + Overnight Hide
The wildest level. That says it all.
Bush Lodges + Luxury Lodges
Bush lodges: exclusive environment. Since I haven’t tried them, I can’t give any tips.
Luxury lodges: well, the name says it all. This is Kruger’s version of a private game reserve lodge. Game drives with a ranger in an open vehicle. Accommodation ranges from luxurious to very luxurious. Meals and lodging are of the same standard.
But even so, the game drive rules are the same. Sure, you get exclusive access to a small area, but you can’t leave the marked trails, and normally, the return time to camp is exactly the same.
The rule actually says that exceptionally, if there’s a great opportunity within x meters, they *might* go off-trail.
First case in the far south: a very flexible ranger and an amazing game drive.
Second case: a mediocre ranger and a boring game drive.
Note that some may only offer lodging.
Personally, I think the added value can be excessively expensive.
Choosing your accommodation within a camp.
This depends on the camp. Below is an attempt to decode.
Camp site: just a spot, that’s it. Access to facilities like toilets, shared kitchen, etc.
Huts: basic amenities, usually just a fan.
Safari tent: the name says it all. It’s already set up.
Bungalow: well, it’s a bungalow, and a guest house is a bungalow for a group.
Decoding:
AC = air conditioning. Fan = fan. Private or shared toilets. Private or shared bathroom. Equipped kitchen or shared. Terrace. Perimeter or not. View or not.
First 2–5 letters — the type of accommodation.
CK = Campsite
EH/EA/EB = Hut (AC, so air-conditioned)
ES = Hut (fan only)
CTT/ST= Safari Tent
LBVST = Safari Tent with bush view
LRVST = Safari Tent with river view
BD/BA = Bungalow with private (and equipped) kitchen
BG/BE = Bungalow with shared kitchen
F, G or CO = Guesthouse or Cottages (more than one bedroom)
Number after the letters — number of beds
2, 3, 4, or 6 beds.
The base price is for 2 people. There’s an extra charge for each additional person.
The last letter, if present, indicates a particular feature.
U = Perimeter — close to the camp’s edge
V = Perimeter + view (e.g., river)
Z = For disabled access
L = Large spot (camping)
D = DSTV (television)
E = Enclosed veranda
Hi there,
I’ve just finished putting together a little article with my notes, photos, impressions, and feelings from my two-week trip visiting Ethiopia: Abyssinia, Erta Ale, and Dallol.
You can read it at the link below:
Back on the forum, I’m starting to write up two 3-week trips to Kenya in August 2021 and 2023.
In 2021, Quynh and I traveled with Régis (Rjulie95 on VF). Our son joined us in Baringo for the second half of the trip.
In 2023, we went with two friends who’d been dreaming of seeing wild animals ever since we got back from Kenya. We didn’t need much convincing to go with them!
The two itineraries are almost identical (well, when you love something...) but we did make a few tweaks.
- The first part of the trip was with a local driver/guide, Félix, who was recommended by Sylvie56. Sylvie and her husband Ben are Kenya enthusiasts—they’ve been there countless times, always with Félix... and for good reason! He’s fantastic!
- The second part was with Melting Pot Safari, an agency that adapted to our photography needs. Tony Crocetta, the co-founder (along with his Kenyan friend Simon Chebon), is a wildlife photographer himself.
Here are the itineraries for both trips, including accommodations:
In 2021:
Day 0: Paris / Nairobi - 67 Airport Hotel
Day 1: Nairobi / Amboseli - Simba Cottage
Day 2: Amboseli - Simba Cottage
Day 3: Amboseli / Aberdares - Fishing Lodge
Day 4: Aberdares - Fishing Lodge
Day 5: Aberdares - Fishing Lodge
Day 6: Aberdares / Samburu - Riverside Camp
Day 7: Samburu - Riverside Camp
Day 8: Samburu - Riverside Camp
Day 9: Samburu / Nakuru - Merica Hotel
Day 10: Nakuru / Baringo - Tumbili Cliff Lodge
Day 11: Baringo - Tumbili Cliff Lodge
Day 12: Baringo - Tumbili Cliff Lodge
Day 13: Baringo / Maasai Mara – Meltingpot Bush Camp
Day 14 to 18: Maasai Mara – Meltingpot Bush Camp
Day 19: Maasai Mara / Nairobi – Roussel Guest House
Day 20: Nairobi / Paris
In 2023:
Day 0: Lyon / Paris / Nairobi - 67 Airport Hotel
Day 1: Nairobi / Meru - Ikweta Camp
Day 2: Meru - Ikweta Camp
Day 3: Meru - Ikweta Camp
Day 4: Meru / Samburu - Riverside Camp
Day 5: Samburu – Riverside Camp
Day 6: Samburu / Buffalo Springs – Samburu Simba
Day 7: Buffalo Springs / Ol Pejeta – Sweetwater Camp
Day 8: Ol Pejeta / Amboseli - Simba Cottage
Day 9: Amboseli - Simba Cottage
Day 10: Amboseli - Simba Cottage
Day 11: Amboseli / Nakuru – Lake Nakuru Lodge
Day 12: Nakuru / Baringo - Tumbili Cliff Lodge
Day 13: Baringo - Tumbili Cliff Lodge
Day 14: Baringo - Tumbili Cliff Lodge
Day 15: Baringo / Maasai Mara – Meltingpot Bush Camp
Day 16 to 20: Maasai Mara – Meltingpot Bush Camp
Day 21: Maasai Mara / Nairobi / Paris
Here’s an itinerary—it’s not exactly what we did, but a combination of both.
Ready to join us on safari to see some wild animals?
Well, here we go,
despite the lack of info on Zambia, I managed to pull off this pretty special trip.
I’d posted asking for tips but got very few replies. So I leaned heavily on Giradhino’s travel journal to plan the route.
The context:
After visiting Kenya, then Namibia, then Botswana, I wanted to see another Southern African country—hence Zambia.
This time, we’re two couples: us (of course) and our friends we’ve traveled with to the last two countries mentioned.
The idea was to do a self-drive trip, picking up a 4x4 at the airport and figuring it out as we went.
We rented our fully equipped vehicle from Hemingways, an agency in Livingstone. Great agency (really), I’ll talk more about them later.
It came with rooftop tents and all the gear for cooking and everything...
However, our goal was to sleep in lodges and only use the tents as a last resort. Mission accomplished—we never even unfolded the tents. Guess we’re getting old 🙂
The route (summary):
Lusaka - Kasanka NP - Bangweulu NP - Mutinondo - Kapishya - North Luangwa - South Luangwa and back to Lusaka.
That said, let’s hit the road for this travel journal of a pretty lively trip.
Reminder: I’m more of a filmmaker, so I’ve got tons of footage but very few photos. The ones I have were taken on my phone, so they’re not great quality. My wife’s the one who handles that side of things.
Day 1:
At 9 a.m. sharp (or close enough), we leave the Lyon area, heading to Paris CDG. Our flight’s at 9:30 p.m., but it’s a busy Saturday with holiday traffic, so we play it safe to avoid jams—especially since the Olympics (hosted in Paris, in case you didn’t know) are causing extra traffic issues.
We’re relaxed and happy to be on our way. The drive goes smoothly. We take the eastern route around Paris to reach a hotel with parking at a better price than the airport lots. We leave the car there, and a shuttle takes us to Terminal 2. Bad luck—we’re actually flying from Terminal 1! The transfer between terminals is quick, though, so no stress.
After the usual formalities (with Rwandair), we end up in the Duty Free.
A rare rant-free moment: Usually, I let off steam in my travel journals now and then, but this time it’s the opposite. I had a terrible memory of CDG and had been avoiding it for years. But this time—Olympics effect? A big change? What a pleasant surprise! The staff were plentiful and super friendly at every pre-flight step, making everything easier. Comfortable seats for waiting to board. Well done, CDG!
We buy Ricard, Jack Daniel’s, and Get 27 to handle any situation that might come up.
We board on time, and that’s when our adventures with Rwandair really begin. Yep, the first hiccup!
We’d booked our tickets back in October and (since we don’t hold back!) had paid extra for preferred seats on all our flights.
Since October, we’d received emails about schedule changes—just a few minutes here and there.
Unfortunately, we never got an email saying that *on top of* the schedule change, the plane’s configuration had also changed.
So when we boarded with our seats (all four of us together at row 25), we were furious to see that the preferred seats were now row 23. We’d been *completely* scammed. We’d paid extra to end up in seats we’d been trying to avoid!
You could say Rwandair double-dipped on the same seats. What a rip-off!
We tried to negotiate an upgrade, but the flight was full.
So our flight to Kigali started with a real sense of anger.
The Burst Hose.
The passenger is so impatient to arrive that the coachman whips a horse that barely tolerates the mistreatment. I can tell she’s gearing up for a kick, and suddenly, at full gallop, she stops responding. If I press the spur, she cuts out but accepts a half-pressed pedal.
She pulled this stunt last year, right in the middle of the Kalahari Desert, and I can guess the trick: she blew a hose!
An hour at a slow trot brings us to a Ford garage. A workshop manager, as sullen as he is efficient, has the necessary parts removed to reach the hose, then announces he doesn’t have the spare part and will need a week to get it. I suggest taking advantage of the access to make a temporary repair on the tear, but he refuses, arguing the pressure is so high that the patch would give way immediately—"It’s not a Testarossa, after all!" After reassembly, he refuses to charge us anything and advises us to head to the next town, 200 kilometers away—off we go for another four hours. Semi-trailers overtake us without mercy; I’m reminded of *Duel*.
At the Land Rover dealership, we learn the part will take two working days to arrive, and it’s Thursday. I decide to have the hose delivered to the house without wheels—I’ll change it myself.
Five hours later, climbing the pass in first gear, we reach the object of her desires.
*
Hide and Seek
In Brittany, my neighbor is a taciturn, touchy fisherman. He’s anchored his old boat in the middle of the estuary that separates two departments and uses it as a storage space. It’s a jumble of nets, buoys, and traps. The old wooden vessel is falling apart, and the hull’s paint is nothing but a distant memory—so much so that the Maritime Affairs Directorate of his department orders him to remove it or repaint it.
Asterix also runs a restaurant on the harbor, where he treats customers to his catch. One Sunday afternoon, we see him loading cooks, servers, and dishwashers armed with rollers, brushes, and paint cans into dinghies. Off they go for two hours of slapdash painting and laughter. Once the starboard side is done, everyone returns to prepare for the evening service. The port side will wait until the Maritime Affairs Directorate from the other department reacts.
This story came back to me when I got home: the side visible from the road had been repainted, but the other side was left as is.
*
The Blonde, the Red, the White, and the Black
Many workers are paid at the end of each week, but alcohol sales for takeaway are banned on Saturdays and Sundays. So, on Friday nights, the bars are packed, and liquor stores never empty—of people who are already full.
Their limited means reduce them to cheap, harsh wines or bland beers. Yet, they still end up wasted.
*
Seven
In mainland France, you can easily raise seven sheep per hectare. In the Great Karoo, it takes seven hectares of sparse but tasty vegetation to feed just one sheep. Not to mention the energy spent moving around. Add to that the fact that a French sheep produces about one and a half lambs per year, while here, between droughts and jackals, it’s closer to 0.7, and you’ll understand why, with a 7,000-hectare farm—the local basic unit—a South African farmer’s income barely exceeds that of a farm a hundred times smaller in Brittany.
This weekend, the annual agricultural show is taking place at the fairgrounds. Some come from far away, so a procession of pickups, trailers, and trucks loaded with sheep makes its way up the main street: we’re definitely in the Karoo. I expected a competition of lean, wiry ascetics, able to pass on traits useful to the environment, but I suspect these bodybuilder show animals don’t just graze on the bush and are doped with alfalfa. Besides, I caught a dealer red-handed with a bag of pellets.
*
They’re Not Dolls
Ken is a professional hunting guide, working independently. When it’s not hunting season, he goes fishing for clients, mainly in the United States. He says Trump’s election—whom he slightly resembles, though younger—would be good for his business, but he doesn’t like Trump, nor, it seems, his clients much. He wanted to be a farmer, but in the post-apartheid context, taking over a farm was a gamble. His wife, who’s more beautiful than Barbie and Melania, silently agrees.
*
Neighbors
That’s the problem with women: their *it girl* side. Within a year of her moving in, we got two new neighbors. One on the other side of the track, the other half an hour away (here, that’s *next door*).
One only travels at the controls of his black helicopter, the other aboard his private Boeing 737.
The first is a very wealthy farmer from the northeast of the country who’s expanding into the Karoo. He just bought two non-contiguous farms of 6,000 hectares each. I still don’t know what the owner of the farm in between is thinking. The newcomer plans to create a wildlife reserve for breeding purposes; our future neighbors will be giraffes, rhinos, and antelopes, including rare species like the Sable. They say he’s a man in a hurry, determined: when the municipality dragged its feet on his request to refurbish the public track that serves as our border, he just went ahead and did it himself. It was a historic farm, crossed by paths leading to other farms, home to a pond full of birds where water from the mountain ends up after the villagers have taken their share. That’s where the golf course I was about to become the 29th member of was located. Now, it’s all closed off, fenced, and lined with monumental gates. The Wild West in the Western Cape. Is it because his name ends in ‘-ski’ that rumors link him to Slavic mafias and advise against crossing him? The same rumors say he’s involved in the uranium market—well, there’s uranium in the Karoo’s subsoil.
The second neighbor is a Saudi prince who just bought a modestly sized farm—3,500 hectares—but don’t think he’s a minor prince. He paid four and a half times the market price to get it! The farm had been in the same family for two centuries, and the owners refused to even consider selling. The prince’s agent—money, in this case, black gold—kept coming back every week despite repeated refusals, finally saying his client wanted this farm at any price. A price they were asked to set. And that’s how you sell your ancestors’ graves.
There are plenty of huge farms for sale here, but the prince was looking for a property where he wouldn’t see any roads, tracks, or other houses or farms. He’ll come a few days a year to hunt. However, he’s annoyed: the runway at the nearest airport, two hours away, isn’t long enough for his private jet, so he’ll have to land in Cape Town, like me, and endure nearly two hours by helicopter.
That’s how it goes in South Africa. I’d be curious to know what Julius Malema, leader of the EFF (Economic Freedom Fighters), who advocates the Zimbabwean model of land redistribution, thinks about it.
*
Biko
The autobiography of a journalist and politician of European descent, South African, is published this week. In 1977, this rookie got her editor’s permission to investigate the death in detention of black leader Steve Biko. The apartheid regime’s political police claimed he had died from a hunger strike. The bold young woman discovered that the medical examiners reported a slightly overweight corpse, and later, it was revealed that Biko had died from abuse, if not torture.
Under pressure after publishing her investigation, Helen Zille, disillusioned, gave up journalism and turned to politics. She is one of the white South Africans who fought against apartheid, and it’s reassuring that some people have a conscience that transcends class or race.
*
You Have the Watches...
…we have the time. Anyone who’s worked with Africans knows this response they occasionally throw at us. Willem, the inconsistent gardener, couldn’t stand the observation: running around the place at top speed, even with a pitchfork over his shoulder, wasn’t getting the job done.
So Jan replaced him. We share the same first name—no doubt we’ll accomplish great things. He’s known to be reliable, meaning he shows up for work, and he only speaks Afrikaans. We communicate like at the circus: thumbs up, thumbs down. Jan has the build of a bushman but the bone structure and features of a mixed-race person—multiple mixes. He’s a sprite, always moving, sometimes without purpose or destination (the journey is the path). I lose sight of him—it’s not exactly a virgin forest—and he reappears elsewhere, busy.
Jan doesn’t understand wasted water—he must think the same of us trying to cultivate the desert. He’s a gardener like I’m a violinist, virtuosos of playback.
After a very light lunch, he lies down on the ground in the shadow of the stables and falls asleep.
If his arrival time in the morning is variable, it’s never before the agreed hour, but his departure time is unchanging: it’s 3 PM, no matter what. No point trying to fool him; he can count and shows me the fancy watch eating up his thin wrist.
*
Colours
Veldrift, Oyster Catcher, Lobster Red, Namib, Dune, Lion's Den, Kalahari, Bush Fire, Karoo Dawn, Cape Fynbos, Safari Trail, African Pan, Bushveld Plains, African Queen, Karoo Drift.
A bestiary? A herbarium? No, the colors offered by the country’s top paint manufacturer. All the shades of the continent from an armchair.
*
Pets
She loves three mastiffs, a meter tall at the withers. Is it for their beauty? Their breed? Their deterrent power, because knowing these beasts exist, no one would dare enter her property without an invitation?
A bit of all that, probably. She won’t say.
She loves pets but likes other people’s less, especially the poor ones. So, she actively participates in the campaign to sterilize dogs and cats in the neighboring township. Just think, the poor things can’t afford to feed or care for them, meaning they can’t ensure them a decent life.
She and others justify the pets section of the local mini-supermarket. Whether your pet is a puppy, adult, or mature, whether it likes fish or prefers beef (no one thought of a dog-based reference from the township?), you’ll find your happiness. While you order, many locals will only have access to the parking lot to beg.
*
Democracy in Africa
What would Tocqueville say about Democracy in America this fall? After the father, we had the son; after the husband, and by default, we might get the wife. No one else, really? Let’s not talk about France and its current vaudeville.
A Ivorian academic believes African peoples aren’t ready for "Western-style" democracy (caricatured as a free T-shirt buying a vote). Does he know the same is true elsewhere, where many voters vote not for a vision, a project, or convictions, but to protect their own interests?
Here in South Africa, national elections were held recently, confirming the ANC’s decline in favor of the Democratic Alliance (DA). Historically (since the end of apartheid) seen as the party of whites (who make up less than 10% of the population), it has managed to rally those disillusioned by the clientelism, incompetence, and corruption of Mandela’s unworthy heirs. The DA now governs five of the country’s six largest cities.
In the neighboring township, long after the vote ended, ANC and DA T-shirt wearers cross paths courteously.
Today, it’s different. The DA’s national leader is holding a rally in a vacant lot. A few hundred people are there, including a good third of children, three-quarters of them ragged. Not an ANC T-shirt in sight amid the smoke of braais and deafening music. Fewer than ten pale faces: the journalist I’m driving, a local official, and activists. A small convoy of limousines arrives—just four, fewer than any of President Zuma’s offspring’s private stables. The crowd stirs, flags wave, and ululations ring out. Mmusi Maimane is a light-skinned mixed-race man, towering over the assembly, which he gently parts, joining in the dances and posing for selfies. He’ll give his speech, half in English, half in Afrikaans, perched on a truck platform—the meeting’s cost must be bearable for taxpayers. A mediocre populist orator, no doubt, but skilled.
Two hours later, in the evening, another gathering. This time in a historic town property. A hundred and fifty people, casual chic, all white except for three mixed-race individuals... and the DA President. A Rotary Club vibe: everyone the town has in terms of farmers, shopkeepers, and entrepreneurs has paid their dues to honor Mmusi Maimane’s visit.
His admirers see him as a new Mandela or compare him to Obama; his opponents think he’s being manipulated, and his detractors call him a traitor. He’s under forty, intelligent, and his wife is white. The chance he’ll become President of South Africa isn’t zero.
*
Posh
Port Out, Starboard Home.
Sonja, who walks the desert at dawn, calls one of her acquaintances posh, meaning snobbish. She’s got a sharp tongue.
Wealthy English people (not the ones sent to Australia as convicts one-way) traveling to India would book their cabin on the port side on the way out and starboard on the way back. That way, they had a view of the coast throughout the journey instead of the ocean’s emptiness—whatever Kersauzon says.
I didn’t know that by choosing my seat on the plane, depending on the route and time, so the sun lights up the landscape instead of blinding me, I was being posh.
*
Cosmopolitan Wine Tasting
A pale lookalike of Jacob Zuma, a painter teaching his art in Europe; an Antwerp writer in South Africa; a desert gardener with a surfer look; an Irishwoman teaching yoga in the Karoo; an Afrikaner passionate about world history; another, our host, up to his neck in wine; and two French observers—observed observers. Conversations flow, then bottles, just before some hosts leave.
Recurring corruption scandals involving President Zuma and his inner circle. A Chenin Blanc. Napoleon, who could have changed the course of South African history. An unwooded Chardonnay. The snake, a puff adder, one found in her garden. A Sauvignon Blanc. The kudu hit by a car at the village exit, which didn’t survive. A Pinotage. The bloody Anglo-Boer War. A Shiraz named Down to Earth.
*
Little Patagonia
A story of pressure or depression, temperature differentials, or perhaps an age-old war between the elements—almost every day at the end of the afternoon, as if tucking in, the wind rushes down the mountain and gives a free haircut.
When it falls, you don’t know where, and you hope it hurt itself and won’t get back up.
I’m going to build a mast on the house, hoist the sails, trim them, and sail across the desert—it will remember the sea.
*
Good evening everyone,
I hope you're all doing well despite this very unusual time…
Here’s a new travel journal to get you back on the Kenyan trails.
It was a really great idea to buy those flight tickets to Nairobi back in December.
When Benoit suggested this new safari in February, I hesitated a little (very little): it was the season with particularly high temperatures, and the short rainy season in November/December had been very heavy, raising concerns about the state of the tracks…
Given the current situation, no regrets, of course…
We quickly organized the safari with our usual guide, and we booked the accommodations ourselves directly. (If we’d waited just a few more weeks, we might’ve regretted it…)
For once, we were able to leave from the airport near where we live (Lorient - Lann Bihoué), which is really convenient: no driving, no parking…
We left home at 2 PM on Tuesday, February 18th, and arrived in Nairobi at 6 AM the next morning—perfect. (With a layover in CDG, of course 😉)
Upon arrival, after a forehead temperature check by airport staff, we got our visas very quickly (forms filled out before departure). The customs agents congratulated us on our passports full of Kenyan stamps… but we still had to pay the 40 € for the visa.
All that was left was to collect our luggage, and we’d be ready to leave the airport shortly after landing. But there was a small issue: the baggage conveyor belt was broken… Eventually, the suitcases and bags were brought out by hand… Hakuna Matata, as they say here—no problem, as long as they’re all there.
Benoit sent a message to Félix, our guide, to come meet us in the airport parking lot.
After catching up with our respective families, we set off toward the Mombasa road, heading to Voi.
Traffic in Nairobi is still as heavy as ever, and the pollution is very noticeable (cars, but also cement factories…).
The current lockdown has changed things. On social media, Mount Kenya and Kilimanjaro seem visible from Nairobi now!…
The first stop on this safari was a place we hadn’t visited before: the LUMO Community Wildlife Conservancy lumoconservancy.com/. It’s a small reserve located west of Tsavo West and near the Taita Hills. The reserve is managed by the local community, and entry fees are lower than in Tsavo’s national parks.
We had initially planned to spend three days in Tsavo East, but since the accommodation wasn’t available for that long, we ended up choosing this option, which turned out to be a great discovery.
Since the reserve is small, I think it’s hard to spend more than two days there. The advantage is that, since it’s not a national park, activities like walks or night safaris can be offered.
Alright, here are a few images to set the mood.
Elephants, but also hartebeests and lots of giraffes in a light we really liked.
Hello everyone!
This trip dates back to late 2021, but since Voyage Forum reopened for writing, I haven’t seen many travel journals about Tanzania, so I decided to repost this one, which I originally shared on another well-known travelers’ site—even though I prefer Voyage Forum’s user experience.
It’s also a chance for me to relive this exhilarating trip... So, if you’re up for it, let me take you on a classic adventure: Tarangire - Ngorongoro - Serengeti, plus a little bonus—the small Arusha Park.
First off, yes, as the title of this journal suggests, we were lucky enough to spot *tons* of lions. The power they exude is incredible, even if most of the time they just look like big cats napping or strolling around. But lock eyes with one, and you’ll be glad you’re in the jeep.
But let’s not forget the rest of the wildlife—and the landscapes, which are absolutely stunning, with those iconic tree silhouettes.
I remember before leaving, I was a little worried I wouldn’t feel that same sense of wonder I’d experienced two years earlier in Botswana (see my travel journal). That fear was unfounded—the magic worked its charm once again!
Note: Since we had limited time, we focused our trip entirely on safari, so this journal is 100% animals and landscapes—and 0% Maasai.
Next post: TARANGIRE
This account of a short stay in Kenya was originally meant for our friends and family, but to pass the time—for both us and you—and to add some content to the increasingly quiet columns of Voyage Forum during these weeks of confinement, when travelers can only journey in their minds, we decided to share the 25 pages of my ramblings, illustrated with Yolande’s photos, from an extraordinary stay in the Maasai Mara National Reserve. We waited until the two previous discussions on this same topic, filled with stunning photos and started by Régis and then Claire—sometimes in agreement, sometimes differing but always full of insights—had quieted down a bit before jumping in. Well, we’ll give it a try.
Let’s clarify: one of us claims to be a beginner photographer, and the other is just an unrepentant dreamer and modest writer. We often pursued our passions separately—Yolande with her mentor and me with an incomparable tracker—so sometimes the photos don’t quite match the text, or vice versa.
We hope you enjoy reading this lengthy post, which is longer than usual in VF’s sections (except, of course, for Mr. Voyajou). A thousand apologies for straying off the beaten path.
Direct train to Roissy—just 1h15. Quick and efficient.
All that was left was to wait for our overnight flight. We took off on time, just before 11 PM. Smooth flight, nothing unusual. Arrived in Nairobi around 9 AM. A few hours’ wait, then a flight to Dar es Salaam, landing at our first destination around 12:45 PM.
Our local contact, Anne from Asanterra agency, picked us up at the airport. It was hot and humid—it was raining.
My three little girls and I went on a family safari in Tanzania. It was magnificent—unbelievable how the animals don’t even notice us. They just go about their lives right before our eyes.
After a restful night, we woke up at 6:00 AM to catch the shuttle back to the airport. Just a heads-up: there’s only one shuttle per hour in the morning, and Kulula canceled our 9:00 AM flight, moving it to 8:00 AM—so no time for breakfast (it starts at 6:30).
We waited 15 minutes in the lovely garden for the driver, who dropped us off at the airport in 5 minutes.
We checked in for our flight to Cape Town, which cost around 40 € (including two checked bags per person).
We grabbed breakfast at the airport instead (less than 20 € for all four of us—one of the nice surprises of South Africa!), and arrived in Cape Town at 10:20 AM.
After quickly picking up our bags, we headed to the Avis counter and left with a Toyota Corolla for 80 € for 4 days (rented with the Flying Blue card—free additional driver).
Everything’s on the left... not easy, but it works if you plan your route well.
We drove to our Airbnb in Constantia. We were surprised to see animals, bikes, and pedestrians on the highway!
We arrived around 11:30 AM at our rental—a huge house in the vineyards, in a super secure neighborhood, about 15-20 minutes from Hout Bay. It felt like Beverly Hills, but with super-high walls and barbed wire around the villas. 😕
Here, those are eagles
Meeting in the township.
Hello everyone!
This trip dates back to late 2021, but since Voyage Forum reopened for writing, I haven’t seen many travel journals about Tanzania, so I decided to repost this one, which I originally shared on another well-known travelers’ site—even though I prefer Voyage Forum’s user experience.
It’s also a chance for me to relive this exhilarating trip... So, if you’re up for it, let me take you on a classic adventure: Tarangire - Ngorongoro - Serengeti, plus a little bonus—the small Arusha Park.
First off, yes, as the title of this journal suggests, we were lucky enough to spot *tons* of lions. The power they exude is incredible, even if most of the time they just look like big cats napping or strolling around. But lock eyes with one, and you’ll be glad you’re in the jeep.
