With my girlfriend Christelle, we’ve chosen South Africa for our first trip to Southern Africa, focusing on safaris—after a long debate with a Cape Town/Kruger combo.
But that would’ve meant cutting out St Lucia, which would’ve been harder to fit into another trip.
And St Lucia—thanks to Michel and all those travel journals—we really wanted to go there.
So our 11-night itinerary ended up like this, mostly shaped by school holidays:
- 3 nights in St Lucia
- 1 night in Hluhluwe
- 1 night at Mkhaya Game Reserve (Eswatini)
- 1 night at Hlane Royal National Park (Eswatini)
- 3 nights in Kruger (Berg en Dal / Satara / Tamboti)
- 1 night at Shindzela Tented Camp in the Timbavati private reserve
- 1 final night in Kruger at Lower Sabie
All of this in the off-season and rainy season, just a month after catastrophic floods that killed over 150 people and seriously damaged Kruger’s infrastructure.
I’ll jump straight to St Lucia and skip the loooong journey to get there (with a layover in Frankfurt, landing in Johannesburg, a domestic flight to Durban, and the rest by rental SUV—First Car Rental, perfect, no complaints).
To motivate readers—especially some familiar faces here—I’ll drop in a first photo.
So here we are, arriving on Sunday, February 22nd in the late afternoon in St Lucia. We were a bit wiped out, but the drive was good despite left-hand driving and the fatigue.
Driving wasn’t easy—constantly mixing up the windshield wipers and turn signals [:)], even by the end of the trip.
Before the trip, we were a little worried about the destination’s safety, like many others.
But on our route, we never felt particularly in danger.
We settled into Sunset Lodge, where we rented a bungalow, and immediately felt like it was going to be great.
The garden view is stunning, and we jumped straight into the pool.
Going from a French winter to St Lucia—it could be a lot worse...
Even though we had a feeling we wouldn’t be alone for long.
After grabbing a few groceries, we headed straight to the ski boat club restaurant.
Apparently, you can sometimes spot crocs and hippos there.
Well, we struck out on that front—the vegetation had taken over—but it became our official hangout: great food (the best fish and chips we’ve ever had), cheap, and with an amazing view.
It was still early, and despite the fatigue, we set off on our first safari through the side streets off the main road, hoping to catch a glimpse of the local star that roams St Lucia’s streets at night.
After an hour with no luck, we decided to head back to bed when we came face-to-face with our first hippo.
Not your average lawnmower, huh? [:)]
When it grazes, the sound is impressive.
It passed within two meters of our car.
Apparently, you’re safe in a car.
We’re settling in at Sunset Lodge where we rented a bungalow, and we can just tell it’s gonna work out.
Hello!
When you see the photos, it’s weird—you can just feel it’s gonna work out too [;)]
I really loved St. Lucia, that small seaside town vibe on a human scale, its huge beaches, and especially the nearby reserve!!
Not to mention, of course, its evening visitors…
I’m in, obviously, and no connection to Savannah even though I suspect it’s meant for me—my reputation here is definitely sealed [:/]
"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux."
Marcel Proust
First South African wake-up in KwaZulu-Natal, right in Zulu country.
Big day ahead, the sun is shining, let's go!
We start the morning with a quick dip in the pool.
It *is* vacation after all!
But we don’t linger because we’ve booked a cruise on the estuary.
Lake St Lucia is part of the iSimangaliso Wetland Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site.
The cruise is one of the town’s highlight activities.
Try to go at sunset because the animals are more active (we didn’t have a choice).
The landscape is really pretty with mangroves, lots of reeds filled with nests—it’s peaceful and calming.
We saw hippos galore, but no luck—no crocodiles, even though they’re definitely in the area.
A baby hippo gave us a nearly toothless smile.
Back in St Lucia, we stocked up on fruit from street vendors.
Bananas, pineapples, avocados, and especially passion fruits—we still have fond taste memories of those.
The little town is charming.
It’s mostly made up of one main street with side streets full of guesthouses—so many options! Ours is quiet, at the end of the main road.
Some locals are pretty unusual compared to back home.
This afternoon will be dedicated to exploring the Western Shores, just outside the city.
It’s a bush area (see Michel’s travel journal for all the details) and our first safari [:)].
I didn’t have any particular expectations for this place, since most tourists focus on the Eastern part with Cape Vidal.
I was wrong.
A wonderful discovery: we’re here in the off-season, so we’ll only cross paths with one other car in 3 hours.
And it’s beautiful—palm trees everywhere, nature as far as the eye can see.
In St Lucia, you can come across the Big 4 (no lions here).
As for wildlife, in the Western Shores, we had some great sightings—especially since it was our first time, so we got excited quickly.
We spotted our first three elephants.
They were far away but on a hilltop in the late afternoon light.
And also a herd of buffalo in the tall grass.
The reserve closes at 7 PM, but by 7 PM, it’s pitch black.
It’s 6:30 PM, and we’re quite far from the gate.
We take one last loop and end up face-to-face with three giraffes in our headlights—just as surprised as we are.
A moment we’ll remember forever.
The drive back was a bit tricky because birds are everywhere at dusk, completely panicked by the car lights.
We made it through the gates at exactly 7 PM, then drove back to St Lucia in the dark.
We leave the Western Shores at 7 PM.
We head straight to the boat club restaurant, which also makes amazing wood-fired pizzas to go.
We indeed have a meet-up at 8 PM at the Lodge for a night drive in the Eastern Shores.
We didn’t see many animals quantitatively during the drive.
Our first zebras
A crocodile settled in the middle of the path, refusing to move.
Here, nature is queen, and it’s our driver/guide who backs up.
But we mostly encountered a small animal that quickly climbed to the top of our favorites list.
A real star!
The drive was a highlight because our driver knows the bush like the back of his hand.
It’s the only guided drive we did where the driver really went off the beaten path.
Sometimes, he was more like a rally driver when he spotted the eyes of a hyena in the dark.
And what about the deafening sounds around us—frogs croaking, cicadas, or crickets...
The feeling of being exactly where we were meant to be.
Back at the lodge, we check the garden to see if there’s an uninvited guest, since the garden overlooks the estuary and isn’t fenced off.
Bingo!
We stay safely on the elevated terrace by the pool, though not without some concern—wondering if a hippo could climb the wooden steps...
Then we head back to our bungalow after this amazing day.
I can confirm we really loved St Lucia—just like most other travelers we met, who all have great memories of it.
It’s such a charming little town, perfect for wandering around and enjoying the surroundings.
A lovely break during a trip to South Africa.
Today’s plan was the Eastern Shores section, just outside the city—a real mix of bush and ocean.
It attracts more visitors than the Western section, though even in the off-season, the crowds are still very manageable.
For bush landscapes, I preferred the Western side—it’s wilder.
That said, the Eastern Shores definitely offer more varied scenery.
There are a few spots where you can get out of the car to picnic or take in the view (always at your own risk, since it’s not fenced). It’s nice to stretch your legs a bit...
At the end of the reserve, we reached Cape Vidal—a massive beach all to ourselves.
It was really windy, and the signs didn’t exactly encourage swimming
Between the hippos, crocs, sharks, hyenas, and leopards, we’re just glad to still be alive!
Especially since we had a real scare with the elephants on the road—a herd with babies.
Everything was going fine—we kept our distance and turned off the engine to avoid disturbing them.
Then a red car came barreling toward us, and the elephants acted like they were going to charge it.
Except the mom wasn’t happy and started giving *us* the side-eye...
And then we heard branches cracking in the bushes around us. We weren’t alone. Couldn’t restart the automatic car—total panic!
I was freaked out by elephants the whole trip (we saw them every day—they’re everywhere!)
In the Eastern part, we were spoiled by the animals.
Romantic buffaloes, for example (especially since we won’t see many more later in the trip)
Some handsome warthogs, sturdier than those in St Lucia
Zebras at sunset
On the way back, we came face to face with 4 white rhinos by the side of the road, and we were able to observe them at leisure. After about fifteen minutes, they finally crossed, surrounding our car. You feel so small in that moment.
The white rhino grazes on grass. And it grazes all the time, so getting great photos isn’t easy.
They all have their horns cut off—it’s sad, but at least they’re alive (the horn grows back, apparently, like our nails and hair).
We ended the day with a stunning sunset that made the surrounding nature breathtaking. It was our last full day in St Lucia, which we’d leave the next day with regret, though we were also excited to see what the rest of the trip had in store.
You’re bringing back great memories, Pascale! [:)]
It was really windy and the signs didn’t exactly encourage swimming
I remember discovering when I got back (while taking a shower) that I was covered in sand : inside my clothes (which I hadn’t taken off), in my hair, my ears...)
They all had their horns cut off,
I thought your rhinos looked a little odd!
It’s still sad that it’s come to this .
Si tu diffères de moi, mon frère, loin de me léser, tu m'enrichis (Saint Exupéry)
Two more things about iSimangaliso...
You can actually get out of your car and have a braai, especially at Cape Vidal...
The monkeys can be a nuisance (vervet and the much larger indigenous Samango monkeys...)
The sea is dangerous, but depending on the tide, "pools" form and reduce the risk (currents and sharks).
The Cape Vidal "campsite" has had two hyena attacks (at night) on campers...
It seems measures have been taken...
Depending on the season, the back roads can be flooded... or impassable...
For me, it’s a must-visit park...
One last thing...
Elephants surrounded a couple’s car after they drove to a beach edge...
Well... they had to wait on that beach for two hours before getting their vehicle back...
Your travel journals were part of what tipped the scales for St Lucia—thanks!
We knew about the leopards in St Lucia.
And we were really hoping to spot one.
No luck, we missed them.
But we were lucky in the Eastern Cape with tons of other animals!
Woke up a bit late but not too late to enjoy another sunny day despite the rainy season.
It’s hot from the morning.
We head out for a walk toward the St Lucia Estuary and beach.
Nice stroll on a wooden boardwalk that leads us through dune landscapes.
There’s also a cool Craft Market right next door for stocking up on souvenirs.
Goodbye, St Lucia—we probably won’t find road signs like these anywhere else!
Speaking of roads, the one leading to Imfolozi Park—about an hour from St Lucia—isn’t the easiest, with pedestrians on the road, cows, goats, potholes, speed bumps, and all...
On arrival, a very friendly rhino is waiting for us.
At least it’s friendlier than the lady at the ticket counter...
I’ll say it right away—we won’t be keeping great memories of this park.
At the ticket counter, no explanations or map to get our bearings. It’s actually really hard to estimate driving times.
The roads aren’t great either.
The Imfolozi section is known for being the most wildlife-rich (especially the Big 5), but we saw very little—definitely less than we’d hoped for.
In terms of numbers, we saw few animals, and most of them we’d already spotted in St Lucia (except for the giraffes, I think). We did loops like the famous Sontuli Loop, but nada.
The waterholes, during the rainy season, were desperately empty of wildlife.
We even went to a hide, but nothing—though hides must be amazing when animals are around.
Scenery-wise, it was really different from St Lucia.
We always say it—don’t drive at night in South Africa. We left the park at closing time (7 PM) and had to drive for 1 hour 15 minutes in the dark to reach Hluhluwe Country Cottages (basic, cheap, but fine for one night if you’re not too picky).
The trip was really stressful because of all the usual dangers—pedestrians included.
After that, we were *much* more careful!
On top of that, the hotel restaurant closed at 8 PM—total fail until the very end...
From here, it still seems like a lot of critters, Pascale 😄
I love your encounter with the elephants—when the adrenaline is through the roof and then you let out a big *whew* 😅
Le monde est comme un miroir, si tu lui souris, il te sourit aussi!
Hi there,
Last time we were really close to Mpila at Nselweni (tiny but super well-equipped, right by the river)...
Tons of rhinos—like, *tons*...
Not many elephants... were they relocated? Should we look elsewhere?
I’d definitely recommend spending a night there...
After that... it’s not super obvious, and the very first time at Hluhluwe... we didn’t see a huge amount, even though we spent a night there...
Well, yeah, what happened in that park? Just bad luck?
I’d stayed at Mpila Camp—one of my best memories, with a hyena sniffing around our braai —and I really loved the Wilderness section of the park. I couldn’t explore it to the max, though, since I was driving a Corolla...
Maybe there were fewer animals, but the vegetation and vibe felt wilder.
"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux."
Marcel Proust
Yeah, right—what happened in that park? Just bad luck?
- Safaris in Africa are UNPREDICTABLE!!!
No matter the place, two vehicles driving the same route 20 minutes apart won’t have the same wildlife sightings... that’s the law of the African safari!! Nature decides what it wants to show us—and what it wants to hide.
What a great discovery for me, iSimangaliso! I’d missed Michel’s various stories about it, and I’m about to catch up on that...
Like others, back in 2016, we had countless rhino sightings in Hluhluwe—over twenty, if I remember right. On the other hand, we were pretty unlucky in the iMfolozi area, which looked like it had been hit by a wildfire not long before.
Mpila Camp was a real highlight for us. It just goes to show how much wildlife encounters can shape your memories of the parks you visit!
Oh wow, you’re really not lucky with the weather...
For that trip, I think it was the only rainy day we had [;)].
If you let us know when you’re planning to travel, we can pick another date or destination.[;)]
Ugh!
In October, I’m heading to... South Africa (around Cape Town and Kruger). I remember your travel journal from around the same time—it seemed like the weather near Cape Town was pretty up and down (between clear blue skies and overcast days)... I’m keeping my fingers crossed
Si tu diffères de moi, mon frère, loin de me léser, tu m'enrichis (Saint Exupéry)
I remember your travel journal around the same time—it seems the weather on the Cape side was pretty changeable (between clear blue skies and overcast)... fingers crossed, Angélique
Yeah, but nothing bothersome, and the sun was often out. We saw Table Mountain in great weather. If you get a chance, the botanical garden is stunning this time of year.
Love this travel idea with friends!
I don’t know if there’s still space, but I’m tagging along to follow your travel journal, even if I’m more of a white wine and Amarula person than Savanna [:)]
Can’t wait to hear your thoughts on Hlane. I’ve booked a night there in July.
In the meantime, I really enjoyed your photos and walks around St Lucia. We loved it 3 years ago, and after cutting it from our next trip’s itinerary, I ended up booking 2 nights to go back. I adore that area.
For Hluhluwe-iMfolozi, I agree. We saw about ten rhinos but not many other animals—and no herds at all. Even the buffalo were in tiny groups of 3 or 4.
hey
Even if you don’t want my opinion on Hlane, I’m gonna give it to you... if that’s okay?
For me, it’s a stopover between the south and Kruger.
In my opinion, if you don’t arrive too late, it’s just an overnight stop.
The restaurant meals aren’t great... but you can do a braai instead.
Watch out—there’s no electricity. You charge your phone at the bar...
The accommodations are simple but fine.
3 areas
One "open" where you can even walk or go mountain biking
One special rhino area... where you can do a ranger-led outing... and during which, normally, you get out of the car to approach rhinos on foot... and that... that’s an unforgettable experience!
(watch out for ticks in this area!!!!)
A "Big Five tour"... with a ranger... there are a few elephants and lions...
It’s a small park...
Great atmosphere because there’s space in front of the restaurant... you sit down and watch rhinos *super* close....
