The "Must-Sees" of the American West

We're heading back down US 89, then taking US 89A to Lees Ferry, where our next hike starts.

Spencer Trail is an alternative to Horseshoe Bend for seeing a meander of the Colorado River. It's a free and barely crowded alternative—completely the opposite of Horseshoe Bend, which has become a tourist factory in just a few years...

The only "small" difference is that Spencer Trail requires climbing the entire Bend from the Colorado River, starting at Lee's Ferry—nearly 500 m over 3 km... The hike is 9 km round trip to reach the best viewpoint over the Colorado.

The climb is easy thanks to a well-marked and clean trail. The view of the Colorado gets more stunning as you gain elevation.



Once we reach the top of the plateau, contrary to what I thought, we're far from being at the level of the "Bend" facing Horseshoe Bend. We still have to walk 2 km of tough terrain, with small rocky hills that can be pretty rough depending on the route.

And here’s the viewpoint from Spencer Trail, right across from the Bend:

This viewpoint might not be as photogenic as the famous Horseshoe Bend to the left, but at least here, we’ve got the place to ourselves!

Sullivan has fun with his drone, and we stay a while to soak in the scenery! We stick around until sunset, but then we have to descend the 600 m of negative elevation. While checking our backpacks before heading back, we realize we forgot our headlamps!

We know we’ve only got about forty-five minutes to cover most of the 5 km. Once we cross the plateau, we decide to run down the slope to avoid the risk of falling in the pitch-black descent.

I still manage to snap a few photos after sunset: Back at the parking lot, a long drive awaits us to return to Arizona in the Kaibab National Forest, where we’ll camp in an authorized spot. Ioverlander is perfect once again for finding the right camp.

Taking a shower is tough—it’s freezing cold again in the evening. Let’s not forget we’re over 2,000 meters above sea level!

Ultimately a bit of a letdown for West Cove—it didn’t live up to our expectations or the detour we took to explore it today, even though the site itself is pleasant to visit.

Well, Guillaume... after ticking off all the must-sees of the must-sees, you’ve become pretty hard to impress!

10/03/2022: Day 11 - Grand Canyon Today is THE day for Sullivan. Why his day, you might ask? Simply because the Grand Canyon is the only site on our itinerary that Sullivan knew about before we left, and hiking down into the Grand Canyon was one of his dreams!

I should actually tell you a bit about his case... During our first week of travel, we still managed to string together The Subway, Coyote Buttes North, Coyote Buttes South, White Pocket, Yellow Rock, and other spots like Reflection Canyon or Coyote Gulch... While Franck and I were shedding tears of joy at every site, the only superlatives we heard from Sullivan were: "Really nice spot," "It's great!", "It's really beautiful!"!! I'm barely exaggerating... and the only exceptions were The Wave and the huge hike in the Needles, which blew him away! Over time, I started to think that maybe *I* was the one who wasn't normal, getting so excited over a few colorful rocks !

I think it'll take him several trips to realize in hindsight that his first trip was by far the most memorable in terms of landscapes!

This morning, we got up as usual to have breakfast, pack up our camps, and then cover the few dozen miles separating us from the South Kaibab Trail trailhead. Indeed, today, the three of us are ready to tackle the famous Grand Canyon. This is my fifth visit since 2013, but all these trips have only increased my irrepressible desire to flirt with the waters of the Colorado River down at the bottom!

Most people do the round trip in at least two days, especially in the summer. But at the beginning of October, the milder temperatures allow us to attempt the descent via the South Kaibab Trail and the ascent via the Bright Angel Trail without taking unreasonable risks.

That said, it won't be a walk in the park with over 26 km of hiking and 1,350 m of elevation gain, especially the legendary final climb, worthy of the Alpe d'Huez, with nearly 1,000 meters of elevation over the last 7 km!!

After parking right next to the trailhead, we started the fun with the South Kaibab Trail, an uninterrupted 11 km descent that would take us down to the Colorado River. At 9 AM, the shadows cast on the Grand Canyon cliffs made the site even more magnificent.

Despite previous visits, we couldn't help but marvel at the immensity of this 60-million-year-old canyon !

View from the Rim



Right from the start, the tight switchbacks on the descent were impressive...

We reached the first well-known viewpoint, Ooh Aah Point.

A little further on, Cedar Ridge.





In the summer, it's recommended not to go beyond Skeleton Point and to turn back to avoid pushing too hard on the return.

The following viewpoints, all just a few minutes from this point, make you feel like you're in the heart of the "beast."

For us, there was no way we were turning back after only 2.5 hours of hiking. We kept going...

At noon, we ran into two cowboys hauling equipment, probably from Phantom Ranch.

It made for some real postcard-worthy photos, straight out of a Western movie! [:)]



Instead of taking shelter at The Tipoff Shelter, a spot meant to give hikers a little shade, we decided to keep going... The temperatures were really pleasant this time of year.

We finally caught sight of the chocolate-colored Colorado River from a breathtaking viewpoint around a bend!

As we got closer to the bottom of the canyon, we lost some depth of field, but the landscapes were still stunning.

And here’s the first suspension bridge we’d be crossing in just a few minutes!

After 4 hours of hiking, it finally happened—our dream came true as we crossed the famous bridge spanning the Colorado River!

Looking at the vegetation, especially the cacti, it’s easy to imagine the scorching heat that must hit the bottom of the canyon in the middle of summer.

A second bridge, the Bright Angel Suspension Bridge, marks the starting point of the River Trail.

In the distance, we spotted tourists on horseback, probably starting from Phantom Ranch. Personally, I’d rather be on foot than on some nag at the edge of a cliff, but to each their own... We followed the Colorado River, searching for a shady spot to finally have lunch!

We struggled to find shade but eventually found the perfect spot just before leaving the River Trail. Not a bad view for a picnic...

After lunch, we start the Bright Angel Trail, hiking up a valley called Garden Creek, which runs alongside a dry riverbed.



We then reach Indian Gardens Campground, the last spot with water before the final climb. We take the chance to hydrate well and cool off. We rest there for a good fifteen minutes, laughing as we watch a group of Americans dressed like they’re about to summit Everest, acting all prim and proper.

Just as we were about to set off right behind these guys, we see them talking among themselves, glancing at us out of the corner of their eye, then turning back. Weird... You’d think they were doubting their physical abilities and their egos wouldn’t let them risk being overtaken. A bit ridiculous, really , so we eventually take off for the famous 7.5 km and 950 m of elevation gain.

As usual, we let Sullivan go ahead, and he sets a pace of 5 km/h. In the first few kilometers, the climb is steady and goes pretty smoothly. To get a decent view, you have to turn around.

The viewpoints seriously lack width and depth [:/], and it’s only in the last third of the Bright Angel Trail that the scenery starts to be worth it. But it’s still nowhere near the epic views you get on the South Kaibab Trail from start to finish!

Not only does Sullivan keep his 5 km/h pace even when the climb gets much steeper, but the worst part is that neither he nor Franck stops to drink ! To avoid falling behind, I’m forced to keep up the pace while pulling my bottle out of my bag, even having to run to catch up... Machines, those two brothers...

In the last few kilometers, we pass dozens of hikers—mostly day-trippers who ventured a few kilometers down the Bright Angel Trail and then struggled a bit more on the way back up.

A few hundred meters from the finish, we go through a door carved into the rock

and reach the Rim at 5:20 PM, after 8.5 hours of hiking, including 1.5 hours of breaks, having crushed the last 7.5 km and 950 m of elevation gain in barely 1.5 hours.

After soaking up the crowd along the Rim, we take a free shuttle. On the way, we spot a few deer, then stop randomly at one of the viewpoints to watch the sunset while sipping an IPA.

All three of us fulfilled a childhood dream by descending to the bottom of the Grand Canyon.

The South Kaibab Trail lived up to our expectations , but the Bright Angel Trail fell short. The latter is more about the athletic challenge than the scenery. It’s worth doing once in a lifetime, but I definitely won’t be doing it again—unlike the South Kaibab, which I’d happily hike the full length round-trip in a day.

Over time, I’ve come to think it’s me who’s not normal, getting excited over a few colorful rocks

Finally, a flash of lucidity 😂😂😂😂

You know, when I wrote that sentence, I had a feeling you’d react...[;)]

Personally, I think these rocks are stunning, and like you, I’d never get tired of them 😊 Once again, congrats on the performance 👏—and Sullivan, what kind of feedback did he get about this day since it was his day? 🤔

And Sullivan, what did he say about that day since it was his day?

Sullivan ranked this day in his trip’s Top 3, even though Franck tried to "sell" him his Sidestep Canyon, and I tried to push my famous White Pocket!

It was the only site on our itinerary he already knew—probably explains why!

What incredible colors and landscapes at the Grand Canyon! Nothing like the haze we had at the end of July 2023. I stopped at Cedar Ridge, and the boys were happy just going to Skeleton Point, like you mentioned in the summer.

Cool, there might be a travel journal coming soon...[:P]

Cool, there might be a travel journal coming up...[:P]

For now, I'm writing the one about Norway in 2022, but after that... Why not!😄

Your photos make me want to go back!

The Needles was a real highlight for us. I’ll have to show you the famous “hamburger” you missed. [;)]

So many stunning landscapes, so many beautiful photos, so many trails hiked... We’re ready to hit the road again for that "Cinemascope America" we miss so much.

Thanks for this travel journal! !

Hi Milena,

I booked a 7-seater TAHOE in ALBUQUERQUE with AVIS from December 26, 24 to December 31, 24 in LAS VEGAS for 796 € [;)]

Thanks Manu for this encouraging message!

Hi Guillaume,

Reading the stories of the "must-sees of the American West" is such an enchanting escape—it gives me some truly great moments. You’re living a dream that, sadly, isn’t possible for us anymore, but thanks to your writing and the photos that make me go "wow" every time, I get to experience a little bit of "this trip" vicariously.

Thanks so much, and I can’t wait for the next part of the journey!

Roberto

Hi Roberto, I’m happy to help you discover some lesser-known spots in the West—gorgeous but often physically demanding. More details coming soon...

10/04/2022: Day 12 - Hopi and Navajo Day Sharon Fredericks, our Hopi guide, bailed on us, so we’re questioning our plans for the day this morning. We’d booked the morning with Sharon to visit Ha Ho No Geh, Blue Canyon, and possibly "Red Lake," a colorful rocky area just north of Blue Canyon.

Without a guide, we’re really not keen on going to Blue Canyon alone—it’s a sacred site for the Hopi—despite Sharon’s email giving us permission to visit these sites on our own. If local law enforcement checks, we’re not sure that email would save us from a hefty fine or even having our cameras confiscated ...

So, we decide to skip Blue Canyon. To replace it, I suggest to my buddies that we head to a little-known viewpoint—a photogenic canyon I spotted on Google Earth—still in Hopi territory but requiring a 6 km (round trip) approach hike. Since I’d heard Sharon was a bit lazy, I hadn’t even suggested it to her because the 12 km hike would’ve taken up the whole morning, cutting into our Blue Canyon time...

We take the track and park along it at the closest point to the canyon. We’re lucky—our car isn’t visible from Highway 264, so we reduce the chance of an unpleasant surprise when we return. Still, to minimize risks, we decide to go in jogging mode and ultra-light! No bags, no water, just our phones, and me with my DSLR and only two lenses! The run isn’t easy—the ground is pretty soft, and we force ourselves to stick to the carefully planned route to avoid detouring around a canyon that looked impassable during prep. After a few kms of jogging, we take a break at this canyon—already a nice surprise!



Then, we reach the start of the famous canyon, and a few hundred meters later, we arrive at an incredibly photogenic area with countless hoodoos and teepee-shaped rocks in two-tone shades of cream and ochre! It’s stunning !



A few yellowish rocks complete this unique scene. In the background, you can make out the characteristic rocks of Ha Ho No Geh Canyon, which we’ll visit later.





We know it’s possible to go to the bottom of the canyon, but we’ll stick to the rim—it’s enough for the time we’ve allowed ourselves here.

On the way back, thirst starts to hit hard, but we eventually find our Tahoe, thankfully untouched and with no welcoming committee! We then head to Ha Ho No Geh Canyon to check out all the viewpoints visible from the track.

Here’s a shot of the characteristic badlands in the area, thanks to my 70-200 zoom lens.



Back on Route 264, we drive a few miles before turning off to Coal Mine Canyon, this time located in Navajo land. We’re relaxed this time since we have a day permit!

Coal Mine Canyon bears a strong resemblance to Ha Ho no Geh. Not surprising, really, since these two canyons are neighbors, even if they belong to different Native American communities.



Beige, ochre, and yellow hues are joined by varying shades of gray. It’s a truly unique landscape—nothing quite like it in the Southwest! [:)]

After all these Hopi and Navajo canyons, we decide to switch things up and head to several bends of the Little Colorado River, also located in Navajo land.

Along the way, we stop at Balanced Rocks and its star attraction, Globe Rock (N36.02136° W111.19223°), which unfortunately has been tagged . There’s always some idiot out there ready to cause trouble...



To reach the 5 bends of the Little Colorado on our itinerary, we first have to drive 30 km on a road whose condition we don’t know. In the end, no problem—the road is very smooth, except toward the end where you need to be a bit more careful.

The first viewpoint is Hellhole Bend, the most impressive of the bends we’ll see today. The photos, taken facing west, don’t do justice to the afternoon light—we should’ve gone in the morning.

Then, a few miles north, First Bend. The water is still that chocolatey color, the same one that would’ve greeted us at the bottom of the Hopi Salt Trail [:/]!

Second Bend looks a lot like First Bend. Only the curve of Third Bend is wider.

As we head north, the road becomes less and less visible. The Covid years must’ve allowed the vegetation to take over. It’s tricky to make progress, even though there aren’t any sharp rocks. It’s already 6 PM when we leave Third Bend and decide to skip Fourth Bend, which would require a 10 km round-trip detour with slow going. No regrets, though—we’ve really enjoyed this area.

Time for us to get back on US 89 and return to Kanab, where we’d already been at the start of our trip. Nobody feels like camping, so we book a motel room and grab a burger at one of the town’s fast-food spots.

Debriefing our day, we realize the hiccup from our guide didn’t impact us too much—we happily swapped Blue Canyon for this hidden gem, one of the most photogenic spots in the Southwest! Plus, after all the effort of the past few days, this low-key transition day with little walking did us good...!

What can I say, Guillaume, the landscapes are still as stunning, absolutely breathtaking 🤩 At the end of your travel journal, I’ll have to check out the hikes I can actually do 😊 because the American West has always been on my to-do list. We only went once, back in 2001, and did the classic road trip… every time, I think to myself: we’ve got to go back 😍

At the end of your travel journal, I’ll have to take a closer look at the hikes I can handle 😊 because the American West has always been on my to-do list.

If you take your time and don’t overpack your schedule like we did, most hikes remain accessible since there’s little elevation gain—nothing like what you’d find in the Alps. Visiting in September-October, as we did, makes many hikes that are unbearable in the summer heat much easier. Another great time for possible bivouacs, taking advantage of springs and water sources, is May.

most hikes are still doable

For someone who’s athletic or at least walks regularly. [;)]

Way too tough for me.

I almost didn’t make it up to Scout Lookout in Zion... It was way too steep!

most of the hikes are still doable

For an athlete or at least someone who walks regularly.[;)]

Too tough for me.

I almost didn’t make it up to Scout Lookout in Zion... It was way too steep!

The killer trio—Guillaume, Franck, and Sullivan—don’t realize how hard it is[;)], what’s easy for them is already pretty tough for us... you just gotta know your limits. For the rest, we’ve got our travel journals and the gorgeous photos to dream about.

Hi Guillaume,

I’m so glad Isabelle’s Kenya travel journal inspired me to finally read your story!

Okay, I’m jumping in "a little" late, but thank you for introducing me to these landscapes—each one more breathtaking than the last—and for showcasing them so beautifully in your photos [:)] (no matter what color the sky was, honestly).

Accessible? That’s a stretch! At least, that’s not the impression I got from reading your journal—I kept thinking, "Thank goodness I’m seeing this in photos because there’s no way I’d ever make it there in person!"

Huge thanks for this virtual trip!

Agnès, I don’t know the Scout Lookout viewpoint, but according to Alltrails, you’d have to tackle 340 m of elevation gain over just 3 km of ascent. So it’s a really tough hike, and I get why you struggled. I’m feeling a bit cornered by the recent messages about my use of "accessible," so I’ll try to recap and be a bit more objective...

This is the viewpoint everyone can access in Zion before Angels Landing. [;)]

but according to Alltrails, you’d have to tackle 340 m of elevation gain in just 3 km of ascent. So it’s a really tough hike,

An hour of climbing at most... a really tough hike?!

Muriel, Isabelle, I’ll go over our itinerary again and give some details on how tough the hikes were.

Day 1 – The White Domes: We took the Water Canyon route, which is steep and really works your calves, but you can also go via Squirrel Canyon. That adds 2–3 km to the climb and makes the elevation gain more manageable (8 km round trip for 550 m of gain). By camping on-site to enjoy the gorgeous early-morning light, it turns into two short hikes.

Day 2 – The Subway: The hike is long (16 km), but except for the final climb on the way back, it’s all flat along a river. Scot2021 recently posted about it, and his two young kids managed to do it.

Day 3 – Coyote Buttes North: The Wave isn’t far, but to get to Top Rock, The Alcove, and Melody Arch, it’s a climb. You might just want to stick with The Wave and Second Wave—the two most stunning spots—stopping by Ginger Rocks and The Rock Fins along the way.

Day 4 – Coyote Buttes South: The central area is easy to access. In summer 2022, Maxime managed to join us on crutches with partial weight on his leg to cover the 7–8 km in the Cottonwood Cove sector. The Beauty is much more remote, but the extension has very little elevation gain. White Pocket: Just a few hundred meters of approach.

Day 5 – Wahweap Hoodoos – Sidestep Canyon – Colourful Canyon – White Rocks A few weeks after we passed through, Marido (Diamina), who hates hiking, unknowingly took the full BLM 431 route, which was previously closed to the public to protect the Wahweap Hoodoos and Sidestep Canyon from crowds. She didn’t see any "no entry" signs and made it all the way to the end of BLM 431, enjoying the views of Colourful Canyon and Sidestep Canyon from the rim. Route map: http://ouestusa.fr/utah/whiteghosts/whiteghosts.php It seems a judge lifted the driving ban, and since then, several people have managed to visit the Wahweap Hoodoos without breaking a sweat by taking this now-reopened route. From the "new" parking lot, the approach to the Wahweap Hoodoos or the east entrance of Sidestep Canyon is now less than 2 km! That said, we didn’t regret doing the long loop—it let us pass through the Colourful Canyon area and the White Rocks.

Day 6 – Reflection Canyon: Most people do this hike over two days, camping overnight. That makes it 13 km per day with almost no elevation gain. Avoid summer to cut down on water weight—the slickrock reflects so much heat that in July or August, it must be scorching.

Day 7 – Coyote Gulch: One of the two truly tough hikes of the trip because of the final scramble to get out of the canyon.

Day 8 – The Volcano: A short, easy family hike (10 km) with no elevation gain. North Caineville Mesa: A tough hike due to the steep elevation gain over a short distance.

Day 9 – The Needles: Squaw Canyon – Lost Canyon – Druid Arch – Chesler Park combo Outside of summer, the Chesler Park hike (16 km) is long but doable if you start early and skip the extension to Druid Arch, which adds too much distance.

Day 11 – Grand Canyon descent: The second tough (or even very tough) hike of the trip. Don’t attempt it unless you’re sure you’re in good shape. That afternoon, early on the Bright Angel Trail ascent—with 1,200 m of elevation gain still ahead—we passed a family of four: two bored teens about 100 meters ahead of their parents, a mom who seemed fit, and a dad, a bit stocky, who was completely exhausted and moving painfully slow. They didn’t have any camping gear to stay at Indian Gardens... We figured he’d never make it to the top that day and thought it was totally reckless to overestimate his physical abilities, putting his family at risk...

Day 12 – Hopi-Navajo day: No particular difficulty.

Day 13 – Upper East Zion (coming up): Doing all three hikes in one day is tough, but if you take it easy and stick to one or two, it’s doable. Each hike has about 250–300 m of elevation gain, so it all depends on how well you handle back-to-back climbs and how your knees handle the descents...

Hope this gives you the confidence (or not!) to try some of our routes. [:)]

but according to Alltrails, you’d have to tackle 340 m of elevation gain over just 3 km of ascent. So it’s a very tough hike,

An hour of climbing at most... a very tough hike?!

Okay, I should’ve said "tough" instead of "very tough." I get Attila—my wife has about the same tolerance when it comes to average slope. Over 100 m of elevation gain per kilometer is really hard on some legs. Hikes in the Alps are often too brutal, whereas in "older" mountains like the Vosges, it’s no problem...

Thanks Guillaume for taking the time to share all these details... it really does give me hope again ... at least for a few of them, I’ll look into this more closely [;)]

Outside of summer season, the Chesler Park hike (16 km) is long, but it’s still doable if you start early

I didn’t make it all the way to the end because of a bout of ocular migraine, but the 14 kilometers I did cover didn’t actually feel overwhelming. [:)]

I think for non-athletes like me, it’s really the elevation gain that wipes you out more than the distance.

Even when I was young (25), I had a really hard time climbing back up from the Grand Canyon, even though we’d only descended a few hundred meters in elevation.

Beyond 100 m of elevation gain per kilometer, it's really tough on some calves

It's the breathing that's the problem. Well, the heart.

When I climb, you can hear me coming from far away! [:(]

That’s what makes me take breaks very, very regularly.

If there could be two hiking trails when it climbs, that’d be great: one straight to the point for the athletic, the other five times longer for the out-of-breath!

Off-season, the Chesler Park hike (16 km) is long, but it’s still doable if you start early

I think for non-athletic folks like me, it’s way more the elevation gain that wipes you out than the distance.

Even when I was young (25), I struggled *a lot* climbing back up from the Grand Canyon, even though we’d only descended a few hundred meters in elevation.

I totally agree with you—climbing really works your calves and quads and exhausts non-athletic people fast, whereas walking on flat ground (even 15-20 km a day) is easy. For next summer (Peru is on the agenda, including Machu Picchu), I’m really dreading the 2-3 days with *too much* elevation gain for Laetitia (Machu Picchu, Rainbow Mountain, and Colca Canyon). Plus, the altitude won’t help. I’ll have to take her to the gym to do step exercises and strengthen her legs before the trip so those days don’t turn into a nightmare...

I haven’t hiked in Peru, so I can’t give you my non-athletic take on your options. It can’t be easy organizing hikes when the group’s fitness levels are all over the place! 😵 I’m kind of the weak link, but my partner isn’t exactly a sports star either. He waits for me, sometimes worried I’ll keel over, but he also has his own rough patches, especially at altitude. After some hikes, he’s barely tired because he rested while waiting for me... That’s the worst part about being the weak link. You climb, see the other person waiting 50 meters ahead, and by the time you catch up—off they go again, and you’ve barely had a chance to catch your breath...

Thanks so much, Guillaume, for all these details—I’ll jot them down carefully and review them when we decide to head back! 😊 And like Muriel, it gives me hope to see these wonders someday! 🤩

That’s the worst part for the slowpoke. You climb, you see the other one waiting 50 meters ahead, and when you finally catch up, well, they’re off again—and you’ve barely had time to catch your breath...

That’s my whole life when I go hiking with my husband and son 😅

They should be equipped with a backpack full of rocks! [;)]

For next summer (Peru is on the agenda, especially), I’m really dreading 2–3 days that’ll involve (too much) elevation gain for Laetitia (Machu Picchu, Rainbow Mountain, and Colca Canyon). Plus, the altitude won’t help. I’ll have to take her to the gym to do step classes and strengthen her legs before the trip so those days don’t turn into a nightmare...

Watch out, Guillaume—Peru has altitude, and what seems doable in France isn’t the same at high elevation. On top of that, you could get altitude sickness, and then all your plans come crashing down 😱 That’s exactly what happened to me in 2022 😅

Machu Picchu isn’t too high—I got a bit of a break there. But when I arrived in Chivay (3,600 m) to head to Colca Canyon, the altitude sickness hit me and didn’t let up until the end of the trip. Rainbow Mountain is at 5,000 m, and there are Peruvians with horses if you need them 😊

They should be equipped with a backpack full of rocks! [;)]

Great idea 👍😄

For next summer (Peru is on the agenda, especially), I’m really dreading 2–3 days that’ll involve (too much) elevation gain for Laetitia (Machu Picchu, Rainbow Mountain, and Colca Canyon). Plus, the altitude won’t help.

We’ll be in Peru in 2025 too. [:)]

Watch out Guillaume, in Peru, there’s the altitude, and what seems doable in France isn’t at high altitude. Plus, you can be prone to altitude sickness, and then all your plans come crashing down. That’s what happened to me in 2022. Machu Picchu isn’t very high—I got a bit of a break then. But when I arrived in Chivay (3,600m) to go to Colca Canyon, the altitude sickness hit me and didn’t let up until the end of the trip. Rainbow Mountain is at 5,000m, and there are Peruvians with horses if you need them 😊

That’s why I put the Sacred Valley at the start of the trip, with 2 days to acclimate in Cusco, then a "descent" to Machu Picchu before climbing up to Rainbow Mountain and Palcoyo Mountain. I’m noting the option to ride horses up Rainbow Mountain if one of us isn’t feeling it... But if AMS (altitude sickness) gets the better of us, we’ll turn back immediately. After that, we’ll head to Bolivia—La Paz, then the Salar de Uyuni—before finishing in the Atacama Desert, so it won’t get any better altitude-wise...!

We’ll be in Peru in 2025 too! [:)]

We’ll be there from July 12th to 17th in the Sacred Valley (Machu Picchu on the 14th), then from the 18th to 21st in Arequipa/Colca, before heading to Lake Titicaca and continuing on to Bolivia. How about you?

Normally, if the Peru portion has been processed, you're good to go after that.

Personally, I didn’t feel anything on Lake Titicaca or in La Paz.

On the other hand, I got a headache at the Salar de Uyuni, and this year, a slight headache during some excursions from San Pedro (too many hours above 4,200/4,500 meters).

If you’re forced to skip the Titicaca-to-Uyuni portion, you can reach San Pedro via Arequipa - Tacna - Iquique.

The toughest excursion due to altitude is the Salar de Tara one because you stay at very high elevations for hours.

The Altiplano is absolutely stunning, but it’s really tough on the body! !

Wow! Great itinerary, Bolivia was really at the top of my to-do list 😊 but now I’m skipping anything above 3,500 m in altitude. Luckily, there are so many amazing places in the world 😊

I haven’t bought the flight tickets or rented the car yet. But it’ll be for a departure in April or early May.

Are you doing a self-drive trip?

I haven’t bought the flight tickets or rented the car yet. But it’ll be for a departure in April or early May.

Are you doing a self-drive?

Yes, I rented a car for 4 days in Cusco and 4 days in SPDA. I’d thought about hiring a driver for the day and had found some contacts in a Facebook group, but they only take a max of 4 people. If I find a driver with a van for 5-6 people, I’ll decide based on the price...

My daughter went to SPDA two years ago and she was disappointed. Too touristy, too many restrictions, mandatory reservations for some sites… Nothing like the Sud Lípez.

I’m back from SPA (see my latest travel journal).

It’s definitely not the Kalahari, but for an independent trip with a car, it’s better than a guided tour of the Salar de Uyuni… (I’m only talking about Uyuni—I didn’t go beyond the salt flats toward the lagoons and then SPA).

Plus, in July, it’s winter. There are fewer people because of the cold.

Avoid: sunset from the Moon Valley viewpoints. Piedras Rojas also gets pretty crowded.

too many restrictions, mandatory reservations for certain sites…

For the first point, I get it—even if the surveillance is almost North Korean-level. The sites would’ve been destroyed if people weren’t kept in check.

But it does mean you can take amazing photos without anyone in them![:p]

The mandatory reservations only affected me for the high-altitude lagoons. It’s mostly just really poorly organized… Booking and paying online, then having to pick up a physical ticket elsewhere—some French bureaucrat must’ve come up with that process…

I’ll have to read your travel journal. [:)]

Photos without people in them weren’t an issue in Bolivia. Check out my journal—there’s absolutely no one in them, [:p] except in the hot springs at Laguna Chalviri. We got there and left right away.

Sorry, Guillaume, I’ll stop talking about Bolivia, Peru, and SPDA in your amazing journal. We can switch to Agnès’s. [:)]