The "Must-Sees" of the American West

My daughter went to SPDA two years ago and was disappointed. Too touristy, too many restrictions, mandatory reservations for some sites... Nothing like the Sud Lipez.

I just found out there are mandatory reservations for some sites in SPDA . Thanks for the info! Nothing mentioned in the *Guide du Routard* or on the various websites I used to plan. I hadn’t seen Attila’s travel journal, but I’ll check it out to ask my questions—or maybe even start a thread about my itinerary to fine-tune it...

Avoid: sunset from the Moon Valley Belvederes. There are also quite a few people at Piedras Rojas.

I had it on my itinerary and suspected we wouldn’t be alone, but *avoid* it altogether! Even with the soft evening light, you’re really not recommending it...

Too many restrictions, mandatory reservations for certain sites... Booking and paying online just to pick up a physical ticket elsewhere—some French bureaucrat must’ve come up with that process...

I’ll go read your travel journal for more details on this and ask you about it, since I’m just finding out there are reservations to plan for...

10/05/2022: Day 13 - Upper East Canyon of Zion - East Temple Loop, Jughandle Arch, Center of the Universe, and Checkerboard Mesa Summit

After discovering the Subway early in the trip, we’re heading back to THE park for hiking lovers!

For a first visit to Zion National Park, 99% of people stick to the main canyon to do the big classics like Emerald Pools (dry in July), the Narrows, and maybe Angels Landing. Sullivan will always have time later to explore this busy canyon with family.

For our part, Franck and I have a (big) soft spot for Upper East Zion, the area east of the long tunnel, which is unfairly overlooked by the public. Most tourists just drive slowly along the stunning scenic drive, instantly recognizable by its red pavement that blends perfectly into the breathtaking landscape!! The only family-friendly hike people know is the one leading to Canyon Overlook.

Lucky for us, because our first hike, East Temple Loop, follows the same initial path as Canyon Overlook Trail. The parking lot is tiny and fills up quickly during the day, which is why we decided to start the day with this hike.

In about twenty minutes along a fun, well-marked family trail, we reach Canyon Overlook.

But instead of turning back, we decide to follow the advice of Zion expert Joe Braun and his site citrusmilo.com. That’s how we end up climbing the steep rocky wall. No real danger since the slickrock provides good grip, but our calves are burning!!

We gradually gain elevation above the canyon.

We slowly approach East Temple mountain. When I’m the first to cross over the summit, I’m lucky enough to spot a whole herd of bighorn sheep below!

Franck and Sullivan also get to see them, but the sheep quickly sense our presence and move farther away. A glance back, and we enjoy a beautiful view of East Temple.

But it’s the succession of peaks in front of us that really catches our eye! What a landscape, so close to the Scenic Drive!



The end of this first loop takes us through Upper Pine Creek, navigating by feel, always heading south until we reach the main road.

Back at the car, we drive a few kilometers to the point (N37.22388° W112.90049°) and park at the lot indicated on the Citrusmilo site to tackle the second loop of the day: a combo of Jughandle Arch, Plateau Route, and Center of the Universe.

For me, this is attempt number two. The first time, in 2018, I hadn’t printed Joe Braun’s instructions, and we’d just relied on the GPS track. But some sections are a bit tricky and not very intuitive, so we decided to turn back rather than take risks... It’s definitely better to go with both the GPS track AND Joe’s explanations!

Right from the start, it’s a steep climb. Then, we have to descend a somewhat steep section to cross Keyhole Canyon. No need to get our feet wet, but it’s clear that venturing in there would be risky! The rest of the hike is pleasant, on a gentle uphill slope, right in the middle of the landscapes we love so much.

Then, we spot Jughandle Arch, an arch attached to the cliff wall—not very photogenic.



We continue along the canyon, leaving Jughandle Arch to our left. But we have to admit, the view at the end isn’t great because the angle narrows as we go deeper into the canyon. The side canyons are also too narrow to be worth lingering in.

So, we turn back to follow Joe Braun’s trail, which involves circling the plateau containing Jughandle Arch and climbing to its summit. In some spots, we struggle a bit to move forward without getting our feet tangled in the brush, and the trick is to stick as close as possible to the rocky massif to avoid scratching our shoes or legs!

Again, it’s a steep climb. Sullivan and I are wiped out and want to turn back ! But Franck is stubborn , and despite being outvoted, he manages to sweet-talk us into believing the view from the top of the plateau would be exceptional! I admit I didn’t look at the photos much before leaving because this hike is mostly Franck’s thing, so I wanted to keep the surprise by not digging too much online.

And so, we end up straining our calves again, despite being in great shape, to climb to the top of this supposedly amazing plateau... Plus, we have to make our way through rocky scree, which is mentally and physically exhausting.

Along the way, the landscapes would’ve been enough for Sullivan and me, but we have to follow Franck, who’s full of energy this morning and climbing the mountain at a crazy pace. At the top of the plateau, the scenery changes completely.

Then we reach the edge of the "plateau" that Franck sold us on... !!!

We see him beaming, with that sparkling, triumphant look in his eyes ! We have to admit the scenery is absolutely breathtaking—probably one of the most incredible 180° views in the American West—and we give him credit for it! And a view that’s almost unknown to the general public [:P]!

Across from us, we can see the massive Aries Peak and the smaller South Ariel Peak, between which we’ll pass to reach Center of Universe.

It’s the perfect spot for a picnic! While rereading Citrumilo.Com to write the travel journal, I discovered we could’ve had a unique view of Jughandle Arch from above! And to think we were just a few dozen meters away without knowing what we were missing. Oh well...

After lunch, we descend from the plateau through loose rocks and reach the base of Aries Peak, which we’ll climb to get to Center of Universe.



Center of Universe is a pretty pompous name for this traverse between two rocky peaks.

The place is nice, but not necessarily prettier than other spots on our route. There’s an interesting succession of potholes, but you shouldn’t follow your instinct to take the path slightly higher up—it leads to a dangerous cliff!

So, we wisely head to the other side of the hill into a more colorful area. The colors change, and so does the atmosphere, in just a few hundred meters.



We stumble upon some petroglyphs by chance, then walk a few hundred meters along Scenic Drive to reach our car.

We never get tired of the scenery, and we better understand why most tourists stick to the viewpoints along the road!

However, for us, there was no question of stopping our daily explorations—it was only 3:30 PM! So we parked a mile further at the foot of Checkerboard Mesa. Sullivan admires the summit and is blown away [:)]

We then explain to Sullivan that normal people are content just admiring Checkerboard Mesa from this viewpoint, but we’re not normal people! He asks if we’re really serious !!

That’s when Joe Braun’s site comes into play again—it gave us this idea... Of course, to climb to the summit, you shouldn’t go at it head-on. Instead, you just need to go to the back of the canyon, follow the thalweg, then take a faint trail that zigzags up the steepest sections. At the top of the mountain, we first get a view of the south side

Then, we use the GPS to head due north toward the edge of the plateau. When we reach the end—another *wow* moment in a day already full of surprises!! We’re treated to a panoramic view of the Scenic Drive and all the surrounding summits!

Zooming in, you can clearly see the Scenic Drive

In the end, it was another insane day, during which we must’ve climbed nearly 1000 m in elevation gain. But you can adjust the difficulty based on your fitness level or stamina.

That said, if we were to do it again, we’d change the order. It would’ve been better to start with Checkerboard Mesa Summit to take advantage of the soft eastern light, continue with East Temple Loop (even if it means waiting for a parking spot), and finish the day in style with the famous plateau above Jughandle Arch.

Of course, we didn’t see a single person on any of the three hikes, while at the main canyon entrance, all the parking lots are packed by 9 AM, and most people are trudging along in a line at Emerald Pools or the Narrows. And to think I still have a week’s worth of hikes lined up just in this part of Upper East Canyon...

After this big day, we decide to head to St. George to sleep—and, more importantly, to eat at the Chuck-A-Rama buffet! This must be the 5th time I’ve eaten there, and I never get tired of it! The three of us stuff ourselves to replenish all the calories burned during this amazing, unforgettable day!

10/06/2022: Day 14 - Buffington Pockets

For our last day, we activated another Plan B: Buffington Pockets.

This set of rocky spots in Nevada is rarely visited, and I had some trouble finding info on whether the access track was doable with a "low clearance" 4x4 and on the coordinates for the rocks.

To get there, you need to leave Highway 15 at the west junction of Route 169 leading to Valley of Fire. At the point (N36.46154° W114.73632°), take a gravel road that starts out very smooth but gradually gets rougher as you go. A few sections are tricky with quite a few big rocks, but it’s passable without scraping if you take it slow.

In the end, we managed to park much farther than I expected (N36.352637, W114.68406), which shortened our approach hike.

The first recorded area is supposed to have moqui marbles and "tafonis," natural mosaics carved into the rock (N36.34378° W114.69836°).

We quickly found the moqui marbles, attached to a large boulder:

But we struggled a bit more to find the tafonis.

Buffington Pockets is a favorite among enthusiasts for two very photogenic arches. The first is called Striped Arch because of the colorful stripes that make it up. It’s absolutely stunning !!

We then headed south and wandered among the two-toned rocks with all sorts of unique shapes:

A unique piano-shaped arch:

There are tons of mini-arches, caves, and special rock formations, and even a tripod (N36.32683° W114.70508°):



A Swiss-cheese rock:

A "Mercedes" tafoni we stumbled upon by accident (N36.32616° W114.70500°) !

or even a tarantula (N36.32585° W114.70490°).

Every rock deserves to be explored because it might hold surprises!

We then arrive at a viewpoint (N36.32517° W114.70514°) that offers us a stunning panoramic view of the entire area we’ve just crossed !





I’d never seen photos of this area before—the surprise is total, and we’re thrilled!

Around a bend in the rocks, we even discover another unlisted arch, "Striped Arch" bis (N36.32275° W114.70603°), though it’s less pretty than the first one we saw earlier.

Right next to it, other mini-arches or rocks balanced on tiny bases.

The second remarkable arch in Buffington Pockets is "Triple Arch," which, as the name suggests, is a triple arch. At first glance, you only see two, and you have to contort yourself under the arch to spot the third mini mini-arch (invisible in this wide shot)!

We continue our loop heading north toward Zebra Wave.

And here’s Zebra Wave (N36.32653° W114.69864°), where we make a surprising discovery. A camera trap is set at the edge of the hole to capture wildlife—just point and shoot without breaking a sweat [:/]!

Climbing to the top of Zebra Wave, you understand its name!

The last area we explore has an arch called "Lion King Arch" (N36.33148° W114.69522°). It’s easy to spot and so cute and fragile!!

We finish our loop by passing through several areas that could be explored more deeply. But we’re a bit tired from the blazing sun, so we move through them a little quickly.

To get back to our car, we walk, guided by GPS, through thorny bushes that take a toll on my Meindl boots—ripping off a piece of fabric. My hiking shoes barely lasted two weeks before giving up...

Back at the car, after retracing the track in reverse, we realize we won’t have time to make it to Little Finland for sunset. Oh well, maybe next time.

Off to Las Vegas and its famous welcome sign at the city’s entrance for a souvenir photo!

There’s a crowd, and we have to wait nearly 20 minutes to strike a pose. The harsh return to civilization!

Night begins to fall as we cross the Strip.

Since Franck and I know the Strip and Sullivan will be back another time, we head straight to Fremont Street, known for its illuminated ceiling, zip line, wild atmosphere, bars, souvenir shops, and some scantily clad women.

We’re also there for its fast-food joint, the Heart Attack Grill! At the entrance, there’s a scale to weigh yourself before and after—so you can see how much weight you’ve gained. The Heart Attack Grill even takes it to the next level by offering free single burgers to anyone weighing over 350 pounds ! That’s still 160 kg... Sullivan and I combined barely exceed that!

As soon as we step inside, we’re greeted by a pretty waitress, dressed all in white, who puts a white gown on us.

The burgers on the menu range from double ($17) to octuple ($35). The last rule of the place is that anyone who bites off more than they can chew gets a spanking from one of the waitresses!

We all decide on a triple burger, which we each finish—though that doesn’t stop us from getting spanked by a waitress, just for fun...

After this last dinner, we wander around Fremont Street, buying a few souvenirs for our loved ones,

then we have a couple of beers at the casino bar where our car is parked—just to get free parking !

It’s nearly midnight when we leave Las Vegas to drive all night toward... San Francisco Airport, 900 km away (about 8 hours and 20 minutes of driving). Despite the exhaustion from this trip, it goes smoothly by switching drivers every 3 hours.

Our return flight is at 3:30 PM, so we arrive with plenty of time to clean the car and vacuum it to return it in decent condition.

Let’s not forget that off-road tracks are technically off-limits to rental 4x4s... The return flight goes smoothly, and we part ways in Paris with connections to all corners of France.

In conclusion, this trip of superlatives lived up to all its promises—and then some! The sequence of Southwest must-sees, each more remarkable than the last, flowed seamlessly and blew our minds every single day .

We were generally lucky with the weather, even if a memorable storm dashed my dreams of Angel Arch. Otherwise, we enjoyed glorious sunshine at all the major and unmissable sites on our ambitious itinerary. None of us had any real physical issues that could’ve slowed down the group, and our pre-trip training helped us keep up the pace without overexerting ourselves.

It’ll take time to process the density of spots we discovered and the variety of landscapes, atmospheres, colors, and rock formations!

Hope this inspires you to venture off the beaten path... Thanks for following along!

Thanks for sharing, Guillaume—I’m in awe of everything you’ve done.

Happy holidays!

Thanks so much, Guillaume, for showing us these amazing sites—I was absolutely blown away! 🤩 I’ll definitely be re-reading this travel journal when we head back to the American West. 😊

Thanks Régis and Isabelle! Have a great holiday season.

Thanks Guillaume for this amazing travel journal—personally, I made some great discoveries, especially in Nevada. So happy to see the stunning Utah landscapes in photos again!! You really crushed it covering all those hiking miles 😊. Kudos and thanks again for sharing!

Thanks for this active share, Guillaume! [:)]

Happy holidays to everyone!🎄🥳❄️

Hi there,

I just have a quick question about your various hikes in the American West. Are there any (one or more) among the ones you describe that can be done without renting an expensive vehicle? No 4x4, just a simple rental car for two people to drive on paved roads—gravel or a short stretch of dirt road at worst. So, are there any day hikes (with a packed lunch) that start from a trailhead where: - Max elevation gain: 1,200–1,300 m - Max distance: 18–20 km - Light pack (5–6 kg max; no mountaineering gear) - Return to the car and accommodation within 70–80 km of the starting point? Happy holidays!

Thanks Fabienne and Agnès for your messages, and have a wonderful holiday season! 😊

Hi there, There are tons of amazing hikes you can do with just a regular car. For my next trip like this, I’ll stick to a sedan to keep costs down. Anyway, SUVs and sedans both come with standard tires, so the risk of a flat is the same. An old-timer rule for gravel roads: even if the track is perfectly drivable, never go over 30 mph. That really cuts down on the risk of a flat, and with a $15 tire repair kit, you can easily fix it yourself.

I’ll try to group the most beautiful hikes that are sedan-accessible and near towns with lodging. Some I’ve already done, others are still on my list... None of the hikes mentioned exceed 800 m of elevation gain, and few go beyond that, except in Yosemite and Colorado.

From St. George: - White Domes with a gentle climb via Squirrel Canyon and descent via Water Canyon (15 km - 550 m gain) - Snow Canyon State Park (several walks in the park and the White Rock Amphitheater viewpoint ***) - Yant Flat ***: no particular difficulty on the track, except after heavy rain ((http://ouestusa.fr/utah/yant%20flat/yant%20flat.php))

From Hurricane - Zion: - Left Fork of North Creek or The Subway - Main canyon: West Rim Trail and the Angels Landing option (if you win the lottery): start from the "The Grotto" stop in Zion Canyon. With a 15 km round trip, you can see the best views of Zion’s massifs - Upper East Canyon: My top 3 hikes are: - Progeny Peak (short hike, but 300 m gain), **** 360° view ((https://www.citrusmilo.com/zionguide/progenypeak.php)) - Jughandle Arch with climb to the plateau + Center of the Universe **** - Checkerboard Mesa Summit

From Cannonville: - Bryce Canyon: Combined Queens Garden / Peekaboo Loop (very crowded) and Fairyland Loop (less crowded) - Kodachrome Basin SP: several nice walks, including Panorama Trail

From Escalante: - The Volcano ((http://ouestusa.fr/utah/volcano/volcano.php)) You can drive the first miles of Hole-in-the-Rock Road without issue, unless there are heavy summer storms. We’ve seen RVs all the way to the slot canyon parking lots. To do on HIRR: - Devils Garden ((http://ouestusa.fr/utah/devilsgarden/devilsgarden.php)) - Zebra Slot Canyon, pushing on to The Oasis (see maps.me) - From the "Upper Dry Fork trailhead" parking: do the combo of 3 slot canyons, among the most beautiful in the West: Dry Fork / Peek-a-Boo / Spooky Gulch - Lower Calf Creek Falls ((http://ouestusa.fr/utah/calfcreek/calfcreek.php)) - Boulder Mail Trail (21 km total) ((http://ouestusa.fr/utah/bouldermail/bouldermail.php))

From Torrey, at Capitol Reef, 3 stunning hikes: - Cohab Canyon Trail *** - Cassidy Arch *** - Navajo Knobs **** ((http://ouestusa.fr/utah/capitol/navajoknobs/index.html))

From Hanksville (info on ouestusa.fr): - Factory Butte and Moonscape Overlook - Hike to Long Dong Silver ((https://www.roadtrippin.fr/poi/blue-hills-long-dong-silver.php)) - Goblin Valley SP - A beautiful slot: Little Wild Horse Canyon, which you can combine with Bell Canyon - Another slot, different: Crack Canyon - Little Egypt - Leprechaun Canyon, and don’t forget to drive UT-95 (one of the most beautiful roads in the American West) all the way to Hite, then turn back or spend the night in the area

From Moab, outside the national parks: - Corona Arch / Bow Tie Arch **** and add Jeep Arch - Mill Creek Canyon for a cool-off if it’s hot in summer - Negro Bill Canyon

From Monticello: - The Needles in Canyonlands: Day 1: Chesler Park with Druid Arch extension (car at Elephant Hill) Day 2: Squaw Canyon - Big Spring Canyon (car at Squaw Flat)

From Farmington, there should be a way to reach the various badlands by sedan (haven’t done it yet, but no negative feedback on this): - Bisti Badlands - Ah-Shi-Sle-Pah - King of Wings - Don’t forget Chaco Culture in the middle of the day when the light is bad for the badlands

In Sedona, you can easily spend 4-5 days without getting bored: - Soldiers Pass Trail - Cibola - Jordan Trail - West Fork Oak Creek Trail - Munds Wagon, Cow Pies, Hangover Loop Trail - Crescent Moon at sunset - Broken Arrow Trail And plenty more if you dig around online or on ouestusa.fr, which lists most of the sites.

Combining all these hikes—most of them off the beaten path—with the must-see national parks where crowds gather, makes for a much more rewarding experience!

Thanks, that’s really nice of you! I don’t want to bother you too much, but I forgot to ask for some extra info. I’d like to know which of these hikes can be done without needing to book park entry, or if it’s absolutely necessary, which park is easy to book. Do the hikes you gave me require permits?

I’m asking because about fifteen years ago, I tried to book for the Grand Canyon, and even though I planned six months ahead, I didn’t get what I wanted.

What do you think is the best time to go? Mid-September to mid-October? Or a bit later for fewer crowds? I’m surprised—your photos don’t show anyone. I imagined these places would be super crowded!

For all the hikes mentioned, only Angels Landing and The Subway—both in Zion—require a permit via lottery. However, there’s no need for advance reservations to enter the park. That said, if you want a parking spot at the main canyon entrance, you’ll need to arrive before 8:00–8:30 AM. As with any popular site worldwide, you’ve got to be an early bird...

For 2025: - No reservations required to enter Bryce Canyon, Zion NP, Capitol Reef, Grand Canyon, or Canyonlands - Yosemite: 2025 entry conditions haven’t been set yet - Only Arches requires a reservation during certain times of the year, or you’ll need to enter before 7:00 AM (so plan to arrive around 6:00 AM to be sure you’re in before the cutoff). Recent info: "Reservations are required for visits between April 1, 2025, and July 6, or from August 28 to October 31, 2025. Entry is allowed between 7:00 AM and 4:00 PM. Without a ticket, you can enter before or after these hours. If you want to enter before 7:00 AM, aim to arrive at least by 6:30 AM to get in line. To enter between 7:00 AM and 4:00 PM, you’ll need your reservation, an ID, and either pay the park entrance fee or show your America the Beautiful pass."

- You mentioned a mandatory reservation for the Grand Canyon: that only applies to those who want to stay overnight at the bottom of the canyon, at Phantom Ranch. The wait for a hotel room there is well over a year. But given your hiking abilities, I’d recommend doing the South Kaibab Trail as a day trip. In the middle of summer, don’t go farther than Skeleton Point—or maybe 20 minutes beyond—for some great views along the way. In the off-season, you can go all the way to the Colorado River, near the footbridge, then return the same way (the Bright Angel Trail back is less scenic and much longer). In terms of scenery, the last half-hour of the South Kaibab Trail is the least interesting—except for the thrill of reaching the Colorado on foot! !

Okay, thanks for all the details. I’m not planning to go in the summer. Earliest would be mid-September to early October. You were there in November, right? How were the temperatures?

I was there straddling September and October. For Utah and northern Arizona, the best time is from mid-September to mid-October, just like you're planning

None of the hikes mentioned exceed 800 m of elevation gain, and few go beyond that, except in Yosemite and Colorado

If you've got the time... I haven’t checked all the hikes, but the ones I saw are out-and-backs. Do you have any that are loops?

Thanks for this awesome travel journal! It makes me want to do the exact same thing :D. I’ll keep the link handy just in case.

Quick question—park rangers can’t stop us from doing a hike, right? I’m planning to do the South Kaibab Trail up to Bright Angel Trail in the Grand Canyon in July... with 4L of water while the rest of my family hangs out at the South Rim. Is the trail not too tough, or what?

In Yosemite, there's a super famous loop hike, the Four Mile Trail combined with the Panorama Trail. The hike is a solid 20 km with 1,000 m of elevation gain. The hikes on my Colorado wishlist are all out-and-backs, so I won’t be able to help you out for that state.

O.K. Thanks, no problem!

Hi Guillaume, I just read the beginning of your travel journal. I'm only on day 2 (so White Domes and The Subway). It's starting off really strong, with stunning sites that are beautifully showcased.

I'll keep reading while taking notes and pinpointing where all the sites are along the route. I also saw that you did something completely different in Texas and Louisiana (haven't read that part yet).

Anyway, congrats on this start to your journal—it immediately makes me want to keep reading, to return to the Southwest, etc...

Hi Michel, Don’t hesitate to ask if you need any info or GPS tracks... As for us, we still haven’t made it to Oregon, even though your travel journal really whet my appetite [;)]. Happy reading! !

Hi Marati,

Great job on this super energetic travel journal! You tackled some serious hikes every day, some even a bit acrobatic. I discovered a few "side trails" from hikes I’ve done that I didn’t even know existed. Shows just how massive this region is—there’s always more to explore, and you learn something new every time you read journals like yours. [;)]

Hi Jean-Philippe, Thanks for your nice message [;)]. Maybe this travel journal will make you want to return to the area after your three huge camping road trips where you explored most of the nooks and crannies of the Southwest !

Hey Guillaume,

Thanks for this super informative travel journal. I’ve bookmarked it—it’ll come in handy if we head back to the States. Not in the plans as long as Donald’s in power.

Did you post your next trip’s itinerary on the forum?

Thanks Guillaume for this great itinerary that really kept us on our toes!

Hey Carmen, I’m not sure I’ll manage to boycott Southwest as long as Donald’s in power! We’ll see. I didn’t post the Peru-Bolivia-Chile itinerary, but if you’re interested, I can email it to you.

I didn’t post the Peru-Bolivia-Chile itinerary, but if you’re interested, I can send it to you by email.

Happy to help! :)

So happy to see the VF site up and running again (which means I’ll have to redo my travel journals). And thanks, Guillaume, for delighting us with your story—especially in such iconic spots as CBN and CBS!

Gorgeous photos, well-organized itinerary, and lovely hikes! Thanks again. QUESTION: During the bivouacs, no snakes or other unpleasant critters?

I miss the USA so much (last trip was in 2018)... JF

Hi there,

Here’s a travel journal kept at a breakneck pace—just like your trip!

.Wahweap Hoodoos - Sidestep Canyon - Colourful Canyon - White RocksIt’s worth noting that a few weeks after we passed through, Marido (Diamina), who hates hiking, unknowingly took the full BLM 431 trail, which was previously closed to the public to protect the Wahweap Hoodoos and Sidestep Canyon from crowds. She didn’t see any "no entry" signs and managed to reach the end of BLM 431, enjoying the viewpoints over Colourful Canyon and Sidestep Canyon from the Rim.

Ah! So that *was* it! You’d almost made me doubt myself. And just to confirm—I’m the anti-Marati when it comes to hiking! [;)]

Anyway, I agree with so many others—thanks to you, we’ve discovered places we’ll never see in person. Thank you so much!

As for your next trip between Peru, Bolivia, and Chile, if you follow Franck’s route, I already feel for my favorite saint. Let her know she has all my sympathy!

See you soon!

Hi there

Personally, I didn’t feel much at Lake Titicaca or in La Paz.

On the other hand, I got a headache at the Salar de Uyuni, and this year, a slight headache during some excursions from San Pedro (too many hours above 4,200/4,500 meters).

If you’re forced to skip the Titicaca-to-Uyuni part, you can reach San Pedro via Arequipa–Tacna–Iquique.

The toughest excursion due to altitude is the Salar de Tara because you stay at very high elevations for hours.

The Altiplano is absolutely stunning, but it’s really hard on the body!

Did you try chewing coca leaves? Or at least coca tea? It helps.

Hi there!

No, we didn’t take anything.

Except in Cariquima, where the landlady served us some kind of herbal tea with dinner! !

So happy to see the VF site up and running again (which means I’ll have to redo my travel journals). And thanks, Guillaume, for delighting us with your story, especially in such iconic places as CBN and CBS!

Gorgeous photos, well-organized itinerary, lovely hikes! Thanks again. QUESTION: Any snakes or other unpleasant critters during the bivouacs?

I miss the USA so much (last trip was in 2018)... JF

Hey Jef! Sorry I missed your message... Thanks for the compliments—I hope it makes you want to go back! For me, it already feels like ages even though my last trip was in 2023, so I can’t imagine how you must feel!! As for bivouacking, we’ve never been bothered by any critters. We just check the bottom of our shoes in the morning since they sleep under the stars. Actually, it’s better that way... The only time we heard any critters was in 2018, with a coyote howling concert at... Coyotes Buttes South!

Hi there,

Regarding your upcoming trip between Peru, Bolivia, and Chile, if you follow Franck’s route, I already sympathize with the fate of my favorite saint. Let her know she has all my compassion!

See you soon!

Hi Diamina, The idea for such a trip sprouted during our long hike to Reflection Canyon, where Franck and Sullivan made my mouth water describing their incredible, sporty adventure in those three regions! When Sullivan said it was the most beautiful trip he’d ever taken, I thought, "We’ve got to dare to do it too." So, I drew a lot of inspiration from their well-paced itinerary but tweaked the beginning because I really wanted to see Colca Canyon. We’ll see if it turns out to be madness in the end!

Hi Guillaume,

Even your travel journal is a must! [;)]

The idea for such a trip took root during our long hike to Reflection Canyon

Even if the origin of the name seems uncertain, it was the perfect setting for reflection.

On the other hand, Deception Valley (Botswana), Desolation Valley (Namibia), and Valley of Desolation (South Africa) are actually delightful places. Go figure the toponymy.

Hi V.... ou,

It’s great to enjoy your way with words again.

Hugs!

Hey Guillaume,

The real question is: "Are you aware that Laetitia might not have the stamina or the very high fitness level of Sullivan and Franck? (I’ve just got a doubt, you see.)" Did you at least give yourself more time than they did for this trip?

I get why Sullivan was kind of over the American West after doing his trip in the Andes first. I share his point of view. Sprinting up the Mountain of Seven Colors, which peaks at over 5,000 m—you’ve got to be up for that. I’m struggling to picture Laetitia doing that... but hey, keep me posted.....

Hi Guillaume,

Even your travel journal is a must! [;)]

The idea for such a trip sprouted during our long hike to Reflection Canyon

Even if the origin of the name seems uncertain, it was the perfect setting for reflection.

On the other hand, Deception Valley (Botswana), Desolation Valley (Namibia), and Valley of Desolation (South Africa) are delightful places. Go figure the toponymy.

Hi Jean-Luc, Thanks for your kind words... and especially your puns [;)] !

The real question is: "Are you aware that Laetitia might not have the stamina or the very high athletic level of Sullivan and Franck? (I just have a doubt, you see.)" Did you at least allow yourself more time than they did for this trip?

Franck and Sullivan’s trip was mostly "sporty" because they spent 4-5 nights on buses (admittedly with all the comforts) to make short hops. To limit this fatigue, I took internal flights on the first and last day (Lima-Cusco and Calama-Santiago). There will still be several nights on buses to change regions (Sacred Valley -> Arequipa, Arequipa -> Titicaca, and we’ll see if we take the La Paz -> Uyuni route by bus or plane). For the hikes, I wouldn’t be able to repeat the Must-Sees of the West program today.

Too many issues with my left knee, where I already had a brace in 2022. So, purely in terms of athletics, we won’t take risks like Franck and Sullivan did by climbing a volcano...

That said, we’ll still climb to the summit of Vinicunca like any good tourist visiting the Sacred Valley in 2025 [:P]!! At Laetitia’s pace on the way up and my pace on the way down via the Red Valley... We’ll also limit the time spent in the Sud Lípez with the classic 2.5-day circuit because we don’t know how we’ll handle altitude sickness (MAM).

I’m a bit worried about Bolivia given its political instability and the lottery with *bloqueos*. It’s a country where you need to have time and a flexible itinerary with plenty of wiggle room. Not really suited to our way of traveling right now...

Hey hey hey, looks like there are folks I haven’t seen in ages around here! So glad to catch up with you all... and to dive back into this epic, action-packed trip! It’s true we pushed hard, especially with those back-to-back days without our bodies begging us to stop. Honestly, now it’s my *head* begging me to go back (even though I did return last year => I really need to take the time to post my stories on VF).

Anyway, thanks Guillaume for the recaps and photos! All of this is making me so nostalgic...

Franck

Hello Franck, I can just imagine how much this trip must have left its mark on you 😊 Oh yes! I loved following your adventures… can’t wait for new ones! 😊

Hey Franck! Reading your post, I couldn’t help but flip through a bunch of photos again. And like you, nostalgia’s hitting hard—mostly with a crazy urge to go back!! The call of the West keeps coming back... so why not treat ourselves!

Hi Guillaume,

I’ve only just started getting back into this long-neglected forum—we all know why...

I took BLM 431 in 2016 to see the hoodoos, and back then the sign was definitely there. However, about three-quarters of the way along the track, there was a landslide that completely blocked the road. This meant a pretty acrobatic descent on the way out and an even trickier climb back on loose, unstable ground, not to mention some deep ruts. In short, yes, it’s a great shortcut for the hike, but it’s not easily accessible.

For the Grand Canyon, we did it in two days. I agree with you—South Kaibab is stunning, but the climb back up Angel Trail isn’t worth it. You spend the whole time staring at the slope right in front of you. It took us 4 hours to descend and 6 hours to climb back up, which says a lot about our fitness levels...

Best regards,

Fabrice