Happiness Settles in the Heart of the Maasai Mara
FR

Translated into English.

BL Blesl Veteran ·
Hello Yolande and Jacky,

Yolande, I love your vulture photos, especially the one after the recovery. Jacky, I love your subtle humor style. For the swallow, I’d say yes—red-bellied.

Thanks for sharing!

BL
PY Pygmalion19 Veteran ·
Hello, hello,

Jacky, I notice in your post that you’ve really got a knack for birding. All those bird names—amazing! 🙂 While photography can sometimes lose the connection to the subject, I see that well-crafted words can bring it back to life... Hats off to you! Reading your posts feels like a stroll. In these constrained times, it’s a blessing. Hallelujah!

Yolande, I *love* your photos. Like Bernard, I have a soft spot for vultures. Like them, I don’t leave anything on my plate 😉. Extra points for the playful lion scenes and the vulture portrait at the end of the page. The swallow shot is a success (what focal length?). The atmosphere shots of the early migration make it feel like we’re right there under that scorching sun! Straight down, I assume?
JE Jety34 Veteran ·
Good evening Eric and Bernard,

Thank you for your kind words—we’re really touched, and it means a lot to us.

Yes, I love taking photos, especially of the savanna’s underdogs, like hyenas, vultures (and snakes, which were noticeably absent this trip—actually, we rarely see them on our African travels except for Boomslangs and Puff Adders). We’d be over the moon to spot caracals, servals, honey badgers, or porcupines, but we’ve hardly ever had the chance to see them. As for the swallow shot at 400x1.6=640mm, ISO 200, f/5.6, 1/500s, it’s heavily cropped.

Have a great evening! Best, Yolande and Jacky
MU Muriel18 Globetrotter ·
Hello both of you,

I love taking photos, especially of the outcasts of the savanna

It's true that these images make vultures photogenic—I never would've thought that possible! Muriel
RJ Rjulie95 Globetrotter ·
The vulture photos are really beautiful, but I’ve never featured them in the "left behind" shots, unlike impalas, for example.

On the other hand, if you manage to make the marabou stork photogenic... well, that’d be a challenge! 😛
BL Blesl Veteran ·
Régis, check out our new (sorry, hacked site) marabou gallery... I think they’ve got the beauty of those "supposedly ugly" creatures—way too unfairly overlooked, like hyenas, hippos, hornbills, guinea fowl, etc. And of course, vultures—photos like Yolande’s should help rehabilitate them, not to mention their role in the savanna’s ecosystem (marabous too).

Take care, stay well!

BL
JE Jety34 Veteran ·
Hello Régis, It's true that with its nearly bald head, its scrawny neck, its large beak, and its dangling pouch, this bird really isn't very aesthetic. Plus, the fact that it often feeds on carrion and scavenges in dumpsters doesn’t help its image. But in flight, it’s actually quite graceful—sometimes soaring high in the sky, it can even evoke images of those long-gone flying reptiles! I can see how even an experienced photographer would struggle to improve this wader’s image, even with all the advances in Canon, Nikon, and other gear that can otherwise bend reality. For this winged giant, it’s gonna be tough!

Best regards, Jacky.
RJ Rjulie95 Globetrotter ·
Looks like they dropped an atomic bomb on his head 😏
RJ Rjulie95 Globetrotter ·
Even like this, I just can't find it beautiful 🤪
JE Jety34 Veteran ·
Hello Bernard,

I completely agree with you about the "unloved" creatures of the animal kingdom. Personally, I appreciate them all—well, except maybe tsetse flies and mosquitoes, especially the females, at least when they're buzzing around me! I really like the photos on your site, especially the one with the hippo and the one featuring the bald eagle and the vulture. Best regards, Jacky.
JE Jety34 Veteran ·
Hello everyone,

This final night in the bush was almost silent—no birdsong, not even a peep. But that was the case every day: where are all the birds? No mosquitoes either, by the way? The photographers left at dawn under a cloudy sky and mild temperatures for one last lesson. Meanwhile, we’re packing up, but Mikaël lost his glasses—they got tangled in the tent he just rolled up with the poles and pegs. It took him a while to untangle everything and retrieve his lenses, without which he’s pretty much helpless. Will he make the cut with MDH, who’s looking to hire a driver for future trips? He asked all three of us what we thought of Mikaël’s skills, and we all gave a positive review, knowing this kind of experience is quite different from the vibe in tour operators and lodges, where you rarely have to pitch a tent or cook a stew or lobster outdoors!

The cars are already crisscrossing the vastness of the park—we’d almost forgotten about them during our stop by the Sand River. The buffalo are still near the gallery forest, but the lions aren’t far off. Just look for the traffic jams: there are more cars than big cats, even though the pride has 17 members. Personally, I’m fascinated by the hyenas, and Motoron knows their hideout. He must’ve called them in just to make me happy because we spot one fleeing with that jerky gait, adults and cubs moving a few meters away as we approach. Further on, we see others isolated in the middle of a massive wildebeest herd, who pay them no mind. The highlight is by the river, where a mother and her still-black cub share tender, touching moments—just like the ones Yolande captured earlier. I never tire of watching these highly social creatures, so unfairly maligned. Proof? There’s absolutely no one in this area, even though it’s close to many camps. And that’s a good thing—the visitors here seem only interested in the "kill," the "crossing," or the big cats!

Our "Return to Maasai Mara" ends on these beautiful images. We settle our accounts (peacefully) and say goodbye with a pang in our hearts and a few kisses to this incredible guy with whom we’ve shared unforgettable moments. He’ll continue his solo wanderings before reuniting with his beloved Christine for a trip to Magadi—I envy them!

This morning, Michel suggests heading to the hyena den, which we missed yesterday because we were busy at another observation site. Early in the beautiful light, we come across a family returning from a hunt, and we spend a lot of time watching them—chases, scuffles, food snatching, threats, and feeding the youngest: pure delight.













The important thing: feeding the little ones

by regurgitating.

Beautiful scenes we never tire of.
JE Jety34 Veteran ·
We're leaving the family to reunite with those who had stayed behind at the den. There, shock—no one was left, except for one adult and a kid I’ll call Rascal, because he wasn’t ready to leave and put on quite the show: tantrums, running off, grumbling, protests, and all sorts of funny faces. A long moment of pure laughter. So I end this trip swimming in happiness. Yol.

Rascal. No, I don’t want to leave.







Bye, Rascal....



Motoron, on the other hand, said goodbye to his employer with respect but no fuss—he’s coming home with us. We still run into lots of animals, even near civilization, where they mix with domestic livestock. In the village, he drops off his small bundle of belongings and comes back to us, asking if we can take him to Narok. The road through the conservancies is terrible, and we spot our last topi, gazelles, warthogs, wildebeest, zebras, giraffes, and even more cattle or sheep. Soon, we reach areas farmed by an ethnic group different from the Red People, who, as everyone knows, are semi-nomadic herders. What will our guide do in town, you ask? Spend his money, of course—and what will he buy? Cows, you’d think? Nope. Michel managed to talk him out of expanding his herd, which causes problems with the wild animals. So instead, he’s treating himself to a fourth wife. We part ways at a gas station, without much emotion. Traffic to Nairobi is hellish, especially near the escarpment, where an endless convoy of slow-moving trucks blocks the road. Mikael’s mission is to drop us off directly at the departure gate, even though we’re still in bush gear, unwashed since the day before, and—I haven’t shaved in a week. This wasn’t part of the plan, so we ask him to take us to his employer, Sunworld Safaris Ltd. It’s only 4:15 PM, and they have no instructions from Paris about us—probably an oversight! The manager, who’s really nice, gives us a room with showers and asks the driver to wait and take us to the airport, where we arrive for check-in at 6:30 PM.

Our Kenya Airways flight takes off at 12:15 AM. The in-flight service is nonexistent, and the movie is terrible, but it doesn’t matter. A thought for Mikael, who’s back with his family and has plenty to tell them; another for Motoron, who’s tying the knot with a pretty "en-kitok"; and one last thought for Michel, alone in the vastness of the Masai Mara with his cigarettes, a glass of whisky, and his Canon cameras. We should see each other again at the Montier-en-Der Festival next November. Until then, our minds are free to wander! Thanks to Mikael, Motoron, and especially Michel.

Le Méjanel, Friday, October 4, 2019. Jacky and Yolande.

Sorry for the long story—it was a short trip, after all. I tend to ramble, but luckily, my "Blonde’s" rather amusing photos livened up this prose. Thanks to those who read it all the way through!
BL Blesl Veteran ·
Jacky,

Not a word too many—we’d even ask for more! A consistent, high-quality story and photos, such a rich and generous share. Thank you, thank you, and thank you again!

Have a great evening, take care.

BL
GI Girardinpho Veteran ·
Gorgeous photos of hyenas! 😄
RJ Rjulie95 Globetrotter ·
This is all so wonderful, Jacky and Yolande! If the epidemic leaves us alone, I’ll be heading back there in mid-November 🤗😊
MU Muriel18 Globetrotter ·
If the skin would just leave us alone,

Oh, the joys of autocorrect 😏😏

Thanks Yolande and Jacky for this story. I’d love another helping for Zambia 😎. Muriel
RO Rouquine38 Globetrotter ·
A huge thank you, Yolande and Jacky, for this amazing recap of the Masai Mara. Now that I’ve been dreaming away to these gorgeous images and beautiful text, I’ve got just one thing on my mind... going there... our trip’s been postponed to late November 🙂.
MA Max68 Globetrotter ·
Bravo for this magnificent travel journal written by four hands and ONE camera 😉 😎

That means you can still travel in Kenya "off the beaten path" without too much contact with our fellow travelers... it really makes you want to go. 😛 However, I think it’s necessarily within a specific framework, like here with a pro photographer, and I must admit that even though I love taking photos, I don’t feel ready to make it the central focus of a trip and be under the "dictates" of an "insider." 😊

Oh, and I almost forgot—I really love hyenas and their laughs too 😉

Thanks again 🙂
SY Sylvie56 Veteran ·
Thank you both for sharing this adventure full of emotions. I really love the scenes with the hyenas. No matter which animals you encounter, what I find interesting is when you can observe interactions and behaviors. Your experience shows that even in the Mara (which has sadly become so touristy) you can still have a unique experience. (Even though personally, I prefer the tranquility of Meru, for example) When can we expect a story about your earlier travels? I’d personally love to hear about your safaris in the 80s, especially in Aberdare and Meru (I also have the Adamson books in my library 😉).

A big thank you and have a wonderful May Day!
JE Jety34 Veteran ·
Régis, Even though this year we’d decided to enjoy our beautiful region, I hope the epidemic will be behind us and everyone can go wherever they please. Have a great time in the Masai Mara and see you next time. Jacky

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