Where to eat well in Finistère?
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
DU
Leaving in 15 days for Brittany, specifically the southern Finistère and Bénodet...

Tourists expected to boost the culinary restaurant industry!

Haven’t read the guide for latecomers yet, and I’m really wary of online reviews. Where can I eat without getting ripped off, enjoy quality food—crêperies, seafood, nice atmosphere... Thanks to all you savvy foodies!
PO Poste42 Veteran ·
A typical dish from Brittany is *kig ha farz*—you can try it in Plounéventer. It’s delicious and well-known. Sure, it’s not *exactly* where you live, but it’s worth making a detour for!
TA Tatra Globetrotter ·
Good evening,

Honestly, there isn’t really a gastronomic—or even culinary—tradition in Brittany. In the past, people mostly ate potatoes, pork, buckwheat crêpes, eggs, and drank cider and *lait ribot* (buttermilk). If you’re traveling in the summer along the touristy coast, I wouldn’t get your hopes up. Check what has a good reputation on Tripadvisor—it might be "crêperies" that build dishes around crêpes or pizzerias, which can sometimes be a pleasant surprise. *Kig-ha-farz* is a very local dish; I’ve only tried it once in my life, even though I lived in Brittany for decades. It’s a kind of beef and vegetable stew with semolina. You won’t find it in Bénodet.

Leaving in 15 days for Brittany, southern Finistère and Bénodet to be exact... Tourists expected to revive the culinary restaurant industry! Haven’t read the "late guide" yet, very skeptical about online reviews... Where can I eat without getting ripped off, enjoy good quality food, crêperies, seafood, and a nice atmosphere? Thanks to the savvy foodies!

Michel
BL Blagajcity Globetrotter ·
Where can I eat without getting ripped off, enjoy good quality food, crêperies, seafood, and a nice atmosphere...

In Lyon... 😛 😉
CH Choucarde Globetrotter ·
I don’t know Bénodet very well, to be honest—it’s kind of a mini La Baule in Cornouaille... and personally, I don’t know any restaurants in that area either. Otherwise, *Au Merlan Frit* in Loctudy has a great reputation.

A bit pricey, but really good (the must-try is the lobster or spiny lobster stew. Langoustines, etc... and FYI, their eggs are edible too 😉, I just saw a review on TripAdvisor). In Cap Sizun, *l'Étrave*—it’s been a while since I’ve been there, but I still remember that stew. *Au Pilleur d'Épaves*, also in Cap Sizun, is excellent! For crêpes, it’s like going to grandma’s—with the bill to match (though cheaper than others). That’s *Mme Gourlan* in Plonevez-Porzay. It’s my favorite crêperie. But careful—don’t show up there acting like you do in your post!

For cider: "All the thirsty drinkers sing the praises of Fouesnant cider" ("the best cider in the world," according to Frédéric Le Guyader) 😉. The ones from *Cidrerie Menez Brug* are pretty good!

If you’re staying in a gîte or campsite, check out the fishmongers too—but watch out in summer, langoustine prices skyrocket because of tourists 😛! Galatheas are cheaper and just as good, but there’s less of them for sale and they sell out fast. See if they’re still selling them straight off the boat in Guilvinec—it’s been a while since I’ve kept up with that, but it was still happening not long ago. It’s a fun outing too. You’ll find moules-frites everywhere, sometimes to go, and grilled sardines too...
Choucarde
CH Choucarde Globetrotter ·
Hi,

Kig-ha-farz is a very local thing

In Plouneour-Menez, at Roc'h Trédudon, with a shot of cider... and boom, there you go! 😉

https://www.hotel-restaurant-plouneour.fr/
Choucarde
TA Tatra Globetrotter ·
Hi Anne,

Yes, you're right to emphasize that. There are a few family-run crêperies with a good reputation like that, but, how should I put it... Anyway, you absolutely have to book ahead and arrive exactly at mealtime.

For crêpes, it’s a bit like going to grandma’s with the bill (but cheaper than others)—it’s at Mme Gourlan’s in Plonevez-Porzay. It’s my favorite crêperie. But be careful, don’t show up to her place the way you did in your message!

Michel
DU Ducono Globetrotter ·
kig-ha-farz... I saw the recipe, not for me—a deep aversion to stews like pot-au-feu or Alsatian baeckhoff...

Thanks! !
DU Ducono Globetrotter ·
Thanks, I’ve noted it!



I also use a really simple trick: I’m a postal worker, so I go into local post offices and ask my colleagues for advice!

Word of mouth is usually pretty effective.

It’s been at least 5 years since I last visited Finistère, and my partner hasn’t been to this amazing region yet.

I told her about going up the Eckmühl lighthouse… how can I put it, I could tell she was "reserved" about the idea.

And if it rains, the Quimper porcelain museum…
YO Youzi Veteran ·
Hi Christian,

... leaving in 2 weeks for Brittany, southern Finistère and Bénodet to be exact...

How are you traveling? Hotel (half-board?), B&B, mobile home, camping, a mix, or something else?
Cordi@lement,

Youzi
BL Bluemesa Veteran ·
You really don’t know kig ha farz at all—there’s no semolina in that dish!!! It’s not a local specialty; it’s made all over Brittany!!! There are plenty of other excellent restaurants all along the southern Finistère coast. Once again, you’re talking nonsense!!! Bravat choaz emman zo na fin na zot!!!!
TA Tatra Globetrotter ·
Hello,

What can I tell you? 🤪 I was born in Brittany, I live here, and I see what restaurants offer.

Kig ha farz is a local specialty from northern Finistère, specifically the Léon area, and I only learned of its existence well past my twenties. You rarely find it in restaurants, except in a few inns that have made it their specialty. It’s more of a dish for local festivals, like an alternative to grilled pork or mussels and fries. You might occasionally find it as a prepared dish in supermarkets, but it’s still quite rare.

I mention semolina because it’s flour cooked in a somewhat coarse way, somewhere between polenta—aside from the corn—and Czech knedlíky.

Does Ducono plan to eat it during his tour of southern Brittany? From what I read, no, and I don’t think the opportunity would even come up anyway.

Michel

vous connaissez tres mal le kig Ha farz , il n yas de semoule dans ce plat !!! ce n est pas un plat local on le fait partout en Bretagne !!! il y a d autres part d excellent restau partout sur la cote sud finisterienne , une fois de plus vous racontez n importe quoi !!! Bravat choaz emman zo na fin na zot !!!!
DU Ducono Globetrotter ·
Mobile home for 2 weeks in Bénodet... then we'll explore the surrounding area
DU Ducono Globetrotter ·
I read that you can find some along the Route des Légendes.
TA Tatra Globetrotter ·
Hi,

I don’t know what you mean by "la route des légendes"—it’s probably just a touristy name that locals here don’t use or even know. I’ve never heard of it. If you can find *kig ha farz*, though, it’s in Léon, the coastal vegetable-growing area west of Morlaix.

Read that you could find some along la route des légendes.

Michel
DU Ducono Globetrotter ·
Oops, my mistake—it’s actually the Legends Coast!

https://www.cotedeslegendes.bzh/

And the village of Meneham:

Now restored, this picturesque thatched-roof village offers a unique atmosphere where everyone can find something to enjoy. You can eat there and try the famous kig ha farz
TA Tatra Globetrotter ·
Tourist product.

Oops, mistake—it’s actually the Côte des Légendes: https://www.cotedeslegendes.bzh/ and the village of Meneham: Today restored, this picturesque thatched-roof village offers a unique atmosphere where everyone can find something to enjoy. You can eat there and taste the famous kig ha farz.

Michel
BL Bluemesa Veteran ·
I was born on Sein Island, and I used to eat *kig ha farz* every two weeks—made by my grandma and my mom. It’s one of the great classics of southern Finistère!

It’s not semolina; in *kig ha farz*, the *far* (a type of dough) is cooked in a vegetable and meat broth inside cloth bags. We usually use two types of flour for two types of *far*: wheat flour and buckwheat flour. So, two bags of *far* for one *kig ha farz*.
TA Tatra Globetrotter ·
Good evening,

I was born in southern Finistère myself, and I’d never even heard of it until I was over 20. Everyone agrees it’s a dish from Léon, I think; seeing it called a classic of southern Finistère really puzzles me. I’d struggle to find a restaurant serving it within a 30-kilometer radius; as I mentioned, it’s more of a dish for association or village celebrations. Your grandmother must have been quite unique...🤪

je susi ne a Sein et du kig a ha farz j en ai manger tous les 15 jours fait pas ma grand mere et ma mere , cest un des grans classiques du sud finistere

PS: How old are you to have been born on Île de Sein? Births there are extremely rare.

Michel
BL Bluemesa Veteran ·
Back in the day, there were no helicopters, and when I was born, there was a storm—neither the Enez Sun nor the lifeboat could cross the Raz de Sein... Home births aren’t unheard of here; the last one was just 4 years ago
BL Bluemesa Veteran ·
In the region, don't miss going to Pointe du Raz, Baie des Trépassés, and Pointe du Van. Douarnenez is also interesting for its floating museum of old sailing ships... The highlight of the region is taking the boat from Audierne/Sainte-Evette to Île de Sein (1h15 crossing), where you'll find excellent restaurants. Notably, the restaurant d'Armen, where a top-level chef works (their lobster stew is amazing, among other things). At Pointe du Raz, in the gallery, there's a crêperie run by Mr. Pichon, the best crêpe maker in France.
YO Youzi Veteran ·
Hi Christian,

Well, you're self-catering, so a bit of home cooking is possible.

Great idea with La Poste. I did the same when I arrived in Brittany. As for restaurants, mixed results. But for the markets, excellent tips! We haven’t been disappointed since—you can find everything you want, and there are loads of "caterers" cooking up amazing recipes right in front of you (grandma’s recipes, of course!). Our approach: arrive around 9:00 AM, scope out the longest lines, buy, and then we feast.

I don’t know the southern markets well, but if you head north, we can share our favorite spots.

Cheers,

PS: Ménéham is busy even in February. From Bénodet in July, expect about a 2-hour drive each way. Closer by, there’s Locronan and Douarnenez. Your wife might be less "reserved" there.
Cordi@lement,

Youzi
VO Voyajou Globetrotter ·
I don’t think it’s escaped your notice that Bénodet is a bit of a posh spot. Since you can cook, you’ll often save money by doing it yourself. Nothing beats grilling a fish or whipping up some shellfish and seafood. You could head to the Concarneau Fish Market or the covered markets if you’re not early risers. If you’re a fan, Belon flat oysters will blow you away. Don’t miss the rare pink clams from the Glénan Islands—they’re half the price of the gray ones (because, being true Breton clams, they gape as soon as they leave home ). You’ll find sardines in abundance, and then there’s the tuna.
PO Poste42 Veteran ·
Hi,

It’s a good idea to ask at the post office, but I don’t share your opinion on that. The counter staff have other professional priorities rather than chatting about this kind of topic. Nothing’s free at the post office. The tourist office is there to handle that task.
TA Tatra Globetrotter ·
Good evening,

I don’t think you can still buy fish near the auction at the "Thief’s Slipway." At the auction itself, it’s never possible. For albacore tuna, July is too early—or just borderline.

Michel

You could go to the Concarneau Fish Market or the covered halls if you’re not early risers. If you’re a fan, the flat oysters from Belon will delight you. Don’t miss the rare pink clams from the Glénan Islands—they’re half the price of the gray ones (Because, being true Bretons, they yawn as soon as they leave the area 😏) You’ll find schools of sardines, and then the tuna will arrive.
CH Choucarde Globetrotter ·
MObil Home 2 weeks in Bénodet...then we'll explore the surrounding area

Great, here's a site that might be useful for you. I found a boat that sells directly, not far from Bénodet: https://www.mangeons-local.bzh/producteurs/bateau-de-peche-ukie-ii/

If you go to Douarnenez, I recommend visiting Île Tristan. Info here: https://www.mairie-douarnenez.fr/decouvrir/l-ile-tristan.html Access is on foot at low tide from the Guet slipway, so check the tide schedule, which is available for free at the tourist office or online: http://maree.info/85 There’s also now a *treizour* ("ferryman", a boat that leaves from Tréboul harbor, pontoon K—check for any changes, including COVID rules). In any case, you’ll need to book. For food, here’s an idea: https://www.mangeons-local.bzh/le-fumoir-de-lenfer-place-de-lenfer-pour-des-poissons-fumes-denfer-%F0%9F%94%A5/

For Mme Gourlan’s crêperie, you *must* book, especially for lunch. Also, I think she only does lunch service now due to her age, but she and her granddaughter might open in the evenings in July-August (check, since I’m not entirely sure). If you go for lunch, there’s a nice walk nearby afterward at Sainte-Anne-la-Palud (beautiful beach, dunes, and chapel). You could even stop by Locronan in the morning—it’s not far—and since many shops don’t open before 11 a.m., going early is much quieter in July (though warm afternoons are also nice, since most people head to the beach). Mme Gourlan’s crêperie is between Locronan and Sainte-Anne-la-Palud, so it’s not far. There’s a small free parking lot just before Locronan, on the left at the roundabout if you’re coming from Douarnenez. If you’re coming from Quimper, you’ll need to head toward Douarnenez. The parking lot usually has space in the morning; otherwise, parking costs 4 € if nothing’s changed 🤪 (complain directly to the town hall if you’re unhappy—the tourist office can’t do much 😉 ). !
Choucarde
CH Choucarde Globetrotter ·
Hi Michel,

I’m not that surprised a grandmother from Sein made kig ha farz, because in the past—I can’t remember exactly when—fishermen from Léon used to stop over in Sein. The Breton spoken in Sein even shares some traits with the one from Léon. When I was a kid, there was a workers’ and banquet restaurant in Confort (Cap Sizun) that served it too, but only in autumn-winter, I think. As far as I know, that was the only one. Otherwise, it’s true that it’s mostly served at festivals or events, like in Pont-Croix (a lovely little medieval town by the Goyen River) in September for the Breton wine fair. For albacore tuna, I think Ducono should be able to find some in July. From what I remember, the tuna boats from Douarnenez left for the Azores as early as June, as soon as the anticyclone settled there for 3 weeks to a month, depending on the catch. We’d get albacore then, and those were still the old boats that fished with a rod. But given the nice weather already in May and the water temperature, I don’t think there’ll be any problem eating Atlantic albacore in July.
Choucarde
TA Tatra Globetrotter ·
Hi Anne,

From what I remember, the peak season for albacore tuna in the southern ports of Finistère is still August, or even late August. Whether it's already available for sale in mid-July is something to check... Possible. By the way, tuna caught by rod? Nowadays, fishing isn’t done that way anymore, but for a long time, albacore tuna wasn’t caught by rod but by trolling, using outriggers. This fishing was entrusted to ships—trawlers, decommissioned—that were only equipped for a few weeks in the summer for this popular and likely profitable activity.

(Photo source, found somewhat randomly during my morning search: https://lesconilquideau.wordpress.com/tag/quideau/)

Michel

Hi Michel,

I’m not that surprised a grandmother from Sein made *kig ha farz*—back in the day, I can’t remember exactly when, fishermen from Léon used to stop over in Sein. The Breton spoken in Sein even shares some traits with that of Léon. When I was a kid, there was a banquet and workers’ restaurant in Confort (Cap Sizun) that served it too, but only in autumn-winter, I think. As far as I knew, it was the only one. Otherwise, it’s true that it’s mostly served at festivals or events, like in Pont-Croix (a lovely little medieval town by the Goyen River) in September for the Breton wine fair. For albacore tuna, I think Ducono might find some in July. From what I recall, the tuna boats from DZ left for the Azores as early as June once the anticyclone was there for 3 weeks to a month, depending on the catch. We’d get albacore, and those were still the old boats that fished with rods. But given the nice weather already in May and the water temperature, I think there’ll be no problem eating Atlantic albacore in July.
CH Choucarde Globetrotter ·
Yes, that's it, with outriggers of course—I couldn’t remember the name! The heart of the season is definitely August, but I know of at least one boat for sure, *Le Coryphée*, that always left very early. After that, it depended on the weather conditions, but being the first to reach the fishing grounds near the Azores and returning before the others was part of the skipper’s upbringing—he started as a sailor at 14. By the late '80s, the skipper was an old-timer, and his boat was too, just before he retired. We don’t see these kinds of boats anymore, and hardly anyone would want to set sail under those conditions today. Apparently, those were some crazy trips. He wasn’t the only one leaving that early, though. I know because I’m close with a guy who sailed on it, and I’ve eaten *godaille* (fisherman’s stew) on the way back—top-quality stuff, freshly caught! They could leave as early as June, and that was in the late '80s to early '90s. Like others, the boat ended up in Africa, this one in Senegal, where unfortunately it was badly damaged due to a mistake when returning to the port of Dakar—almost a waste. But back then, it was either that or scrapping it with the new regulations here! So if they left in June, by July we’d have albacore tuna. They’d do three to four trips of 3 weeks to a month. Yes, these were boats adapted for summer fishing, equipped with outriggers—thanks for the word! Annoying memory lapse, and I just put ‘rods’ out of laziness, knowing it wasn’t quite right but that someone would get what I meant (and you did ). I’ll check out your link later—sounds interesting! Have a great day!

PS: *Le Coryphée* looked like the one in your photo, exactly like that—well, what it used to be.
Choucarde
TA Tatra Globetrotter ·
The Coryphée still trawling. http://saint-guenole.net/coryphee/

Michel
DU Ducono Globetrotter ·
Just a reminder—I’m an old postman. I figure if I’m gonna ask locals, might as well pick ones from my own kind…
TA Tatra Globetrotter ·
Give it a try if you want, but I don’t think people will be very receptive. You’ll let us know.

Just to remind you, I’m an old postman. I figure if I’m going to ask locals, I might as well pick ones like me...

Michel
PO Poste42 Veteran ·
Well, you should know the goals that postal workers have both at the counter and in delivery. Mail carriers have to deal with extended rounds. I figure they don’t have time to give tourists tips on restaurants and the prices they charge, and it’s not really part of their job anyway. In Bénodet, you can always try asking your questions. Have a great Breton stay.
DU Ducono Globetrotter ·
No way, in a tourist town on the Channel, I asked a mail carrier where to eat well... he told me, "Definitely not here, they're all tourist scammers," which seemed obvious when I saw the menus.

Thanks to his great tip, I ended up in a restaurant 5 km away—cheaper, good, and friendly...
YO Youzi Veteran ·
Hi Marie-Anne,

I find your justifications incredibly sad. 😕

Have a good day,

PS: To save you from another misstep, I had a grandfather and an uncle who were postal workers...
Cordi@lement,

Youzi
PO Poste42 Veteran ·
Hi Stéphane

Is this the only response you can give me, with no argument? I’m not making any mistake—this is the reality of today’s La Poste agents. Postal workers are there to complete a task; they don’t have time for anything else. Is this the La Poste from your grandfather’s era?
DU Ducono Globetrotter ·
Totally agree

I started working at the post office back in '80. At the end of the year back then, the Minister of PTT would call his finance colleague: "Hey Léon, I need 500 million to wrap up the year," and just like that, we’d finish the year in the black.

I worked in a department with a 2-hour morning break for ping-pong or a 2-hour tarot session in the afternoon.

The internet killed paper mail.

The change in status for postal workers...

That said, I have complete faith in my Breton colleagues to find me great restaurants and send my postcards properly!!!!
YO Youzi Veteran ·
Hi Christian,

... still, I totally trust my Breton colleagues to find me great restaurants and send my postcards properly!!!!

You can! No matter what M-A thinks, your Breton colleagues are just as "old-school" as my grandpa. They still have the idea of "service" and are way less bitter than M-A would like!

PS: For brut cider, you can find excellent ones at Leclerc.
Cordi@lement,

Youzi
DU Ducono Globetrotter ·
Dry cider is a must... the sweet stuff is like rosé—we leave that to the Parisians. Loïc’s right, actually—it’s not too bad.
PO Poste42 Veteran ·
Have a great Breton stay and enjoy your time! But avoid asking your Breton colleagues questions that aren’t part of their job—their workload is already enough, okay? They’re there to forward your postcards, not to recommend the local restaurant. The old-school post office doesn’t exist anymore; you’ve got to keep up with the times.
PO Poste42 Veteran ·
I don’t want anything at all, really—I’m just being realistic and objective. What exactly is the service being provided here? Giving information to tourists—is that part of it? What an idea. You don’t seem to realize that all services at La Poste are paid for. Do some research if you think I’m wrong; I’m open to debate.
CH Choucarde Globetrotter ·
Dry cider is a must... the sweet stuff is like rosé—we leave that to the Parisians. Loïc’s got a point, some of it’s not too bad

😏! There have always been fans of *traoù dous* (sweet cider) in Brittany, and for the guys, it’s more like *c’hwero*—a super dry farmhouse cider (or pronounced *feo*, actually). You can still find some around Fouesnant or St Evarzec, from what I know. It’s artisanal, made only in small private orchards by enthusiasts, whether they’re in an association or not. Leclerc doesn’t know a thing about it—*tuff*! 😛 A storyteller who specializes in tradition can tell you all about it (gotta provide proof, after all): https://www.palemon.fr/essais/1582-contes-et-histoires-du-pays-du-cidre.html

I’m not sure if postal workers in every post office have time to give recommendations, but I’ve seen some do it while I watched the minute hand on the post office clock creep toward the last pickup. Just introduce yourself with: *"Hé freï, I’m one of the crew too!"* These days, postal workers even ship bottles—the label can double as a postcard, just signed: *yec’hed mat!* Or a little teasing: *Who drinks apple juice first thing in the morning always has a rosy complexion!* 😇 (Okay, *first thing* is mostly for the rhyme—don’t take it too literally).

Anyway, I’m joking—just lightening the mood a bit. But watch out for the *bleus* (cops) on the road early in the morning, especially since it’s *biniou* season. 😉
Choucarde
BL Bluemesa Veteran ·
Generally, postal workers drink the bottle before sending it off 😛
PO Poste42 Veteran ·
The first and last pick-up 😉😉 Sending bottles by La Poste is possible if you want, but you’ll need good packaging, and the shipping cost won’t be cheap 🙂 I completely agree with you—artisanal cider is still better than the one mentioned by Ducono. "The Bretons are always right," as the brand says.
PO Poste42 Veteran ·
That’s a joke, I hope.
TA Tatra Globetrotter ·
Hi Anne,

You’re setting them up for some tricky and intense moments. 😏 We used to find this kind of cider just 10 or 15 years ago in some grocery stores, mostly rural ones. It has absolutely nothing to do with big-brand cider, even the dry kind mentioned here. I don’t even think you can imagine what it’s like if you’ve only ever drunk supermarket cider.

There have always been fans of *traoù dous* in Brittany, and for the guys, it’d be more like *c’hwero*—a super dry farmhouse cider (or pronounced *feo*, actually). You can still find some around Fouesnant or St Evarzec, from what I know. It’s artisanal and only comes from small private orchards run by passionate folks, whether they’re in an association or not. Leclerc doesn’t stand a chance with this stuff, *tuff*! 😛 A storyteller who specializes in tradition can tell you all about it (gotta provide some proof, after all): https://www.palemon.fr/essays/1582-contes-et-histoires-du-pays-du-cidre.html.

Michel
PO Poste42 Veteran ·
"some delicate and pressing moments" ???????😮😮

They’ll definitely appreciate a good bowl of brut cider in a crêperie, and they’ll rush to buy some good bottles of artisanal cider to bring back for friends and family—it’s a lovely, locally inspired gift. Just make sure the bowl isn’t locally made, though! Between mass-produced cider and artisanal cider, you can really taste the difference right away.
TA Tatra Globetrotter ·
Hi Anne Marie,

With the cider I’m telling you about, some digestive upsets are to be expected.

"some tricky and urgent moments" ???????😮😮 They’ll no doubt love a good bowl of brut cider in a crêperie, and they’ll rush to buy some good bottles of artisanal cider to bring back for friends and family—it’s a lovely, locally inspired gift. That said, the bowl of cider shouldn’t be locally made. Between mass-market cider and artisanal cider, you can immediately taste the difference.

Michel
PO Poste42 Veteran ·
Okay, let's be clear 🙂 But which cider are you talking about exactly?
TA Tatra Globetrotter ·
I'm talking about the rough unfiltered ciders. That said, a lot of ciders have unfortunate consequences like that. 🙂

Okay, let's be clear 🙂 But which cider are you talking about exactly?

Michel

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