Alright, I'm diving into this Hawaiian travel journal!
I hope lots of you will follow along because the destination is absolutely charming. [:)]
Just a heads-up—I might take a while to finish it.
The trip took place from February 20th to March 3rd, 2025 (11 days total, with 9 days on-site).
It was a trip with my friend Christelle, with whom I’ve already traveled to Iceland and Morocco in recent years.
We’re totally on the same wavelength, with the same expectations and desires, which makes things a lot easier (and, as a bonus, it helps cut down the final bill).
Being the generous soul I am, I asked Christelle which country she wanted to visit.
Her answer: Asia, since I’ve never been, or Namibia...
Hawaii is basically the same thing, right?!!
All thanks to the search comparator—I stumbled upon round-trip tickets from Paris to Honolulu for 580 € per person during school holidays, with a layover in Canada (I don’t get to choose my vacation dates).
We jumped on it on August 28th (didn’t take much convincing).
For info, I always check flight tickets during the last week of August or the first half of September because there are always amazing deals.
Nine days on-site is short, so we had to make some tough choices for the islands we’d visit (I’m only listing the main ones):
- Oahu: the most urbanized but also home to Honolulu, Pearl Harbor, and some stunning beaches.
Kauai: the Garden Isle. It’s the island from *Jurassic Park*, with lush vegetation—so it’s pretty rainy.
Big Island: volcanoes, volcanoes, and more, but also things like night snorkeling with manta rays.
Maui: very touristy, with a magnificent volcano, the Road to Hana, and the ultimate spot for whale watching (and we were there right in the middle of whale season).
We limited ourselves to two islands to avoid rushing, and in the end, we picked Kauai (non-negotiable) and Oahu (which saved us an extra domestic flight and, since we were there in winter, let us experience the BIG WAVES on the North Shore).
We would’ve loved to visit Big Island, but we’d already seen volcanoes in Iceland, and the island is huge—we just didn’t have enough time.
Maui was recently hit by a major wildfire and is also the most expensive island (along with Kauai).
We were really hoping to see humpback whales (my favorite animal) on both Oahu and Kauai.
Hawaii is far, and it’s worth the effort. The journey went smoothly.
I took a 40-minute bus ride and a 1h32 RER trip just to get to Roissy, then a 9h15 flight to Calgary, with a two-hour layover before a 6h45 flight to Honolulu.
11 hours of time difference, arriving at 10 PM local time.
And you know what? (spoiler alert) I’d do it a thousand times if I got the chance.
Here’s an intro that makes you want to see more—it’s a destination that’s not unknown but not often seen either.
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
Day 1: Internal flight to Kauai / Hanapepe and Waimea Canyon
After a good night's sleep in a motel near the airport, we take a 50-minute internal flight with Southwest Airlines to the island of Kauai (smooth).
The scenery changes completely!
The day before, heading to Canada
Today, departing from Oahu
We pick up our chariot upon arrival in Lihue—a red, economy-sized Honda.
Goodbye, down jacket, scarf, and compression socks, and hello to T-shirts and shorts!
The weather is beautiful, and the heat is bearable. We decide to go all out and take advantage of this weather, heading southwest to one of Kauai’s stars: Waimea Canyon, nicknamed the Grand Canyon of the Pacific, about an hour’s drive away.
Along the way, we stop in Hanapepe, which served as the inspiration for the town in the animated movie *Lilo and Stitch*.
We find a charming old wooden suspension bridge (Hanapepe Swinging Bridge) and right next to it, a rather quirky house.
We quickly explore the area—it’s not exactly a must-see, but it’s on the way and lets us grab a tasty meat sandwich ($13 the sandwich…).
Not far away, our first viewpoint at the Hanapepe Valley Lookout.
We head straight to Waimea and cross our fingers because in Kauai, the mist becomes more and more present as the day goes on: the view belongs to those who wake up early.
The road climbs, and we can make a few stops along the way.
Arrival at the State Park—no ticket booth to pay the $10 per day for the car plus $5 per person. Payment is made at the first parking lot where you stop.
We chose Waimea Lookout.
It’s really beautiful.
I’ve been lucky enough to see the Grand Canyon.
It’s still my favorite, but this 22 km-long canyon definitely deserves a visit.
It’s much greener than the Grand Canyon.
For our first hike, we picked the Canyon Trail (about 5.6 km round trip).
It’s not known for being very difficult.
The first part is in the forest, and it starts with a descent.
You don’t see much because the vegetation blocks everything.
The reward is at the end of the trail.
We were supposed to reach the top of a waterfall.
We did find the small cascade nearby, but we didn’t see the top of the falls—just heard the sound, since there was so much vegetation blocking the view.
Along the way, we had plenty of company—I didn’t mention it earlier, but if Kauai is the Garden Isle, it’s also the island of roosters, which are absolutely everywhere, even in the forest! (Thanks to a hurricane that freed them, and they’ve adapted well to the wild.)
To wrap up this hike, we didn’t find it that easy—it climbs, descends, gets slippery, and really works your legs.
Still, we’d recommend it because the canyon is pretty impressive.
On the way back, we didn’t linger because we had a two-hour drive to reach our studio in Princeville, on the north side of the island, and we were hoping to catch the sunset on a southern beach.
No luck—there was a bad accident on the road, and we were stuck for 1.5 hours. There’s only one road that loops around Kauai, so if there’s a traffic jam, you’re stuck! We grabbed a quick McDonald’s on the way. Food’s expensive in Hawaii except at McDonald’s [:)]
The trip back was long, but it was a great first day!
Oh wow, the roosters 😂! What an unusual setting!
I’m so excited to join you on this adventure, Pascale. I’ll admit I’ve never really been interested in Hawaii—I always imagined it as too urban for my taste—but your first photos show me that nature there is absolutely stunning!
And I love the vibe of your travel journal, so see you soon for the next update! 😊.
Le monde est comme un miroir, si tu lui souris, il te sourit aussi!
I’ll admit I’ve never been interested in Hawaii because I imagined it was too urbanized for my taste, but your first photos show me that nature there is also really beautiful!
Hawaii has it all: ultra-touristy spots and big cities (Honolulu) alongside vast empty spaces. I loved Kauai. Big Island also has a lot to offer. But everything there is expensive.
Mon blog de voyage : http://xn--duncontinentlautre-qrb.com
Welcome to you too—I’m so glad to see you here!
I can confirm you’ll discover some really beautiful things that should appeal to you, unless you’re *super* picky about this destination.
It *is* expensive (food and lodging), but you’ll see—there are ways to keep costs down.
I’ll do a recap at the end of my travel journal.
I haven’t been to Polynesia, so I can’t compare.
No time to dawdle this morning because we have a date with the Kalalau Trail, Kauai’s most legendary hike (and Kauai is a hiker’s paradise).
Staying in Princeville in the north, we’re close to Haena State Park where the trail starts.
We got up around 6 a.m. (a constant throughout the trip—jet lag meant we were up early anyway, so we had the whole day to make the most of it) to be at the small parking lot at Haena Beach Park by 7 a.m. It’s about a mile from Haena State Park.
The Kalalau Trail is an 11-mile path along the Napali Coast.
You need a permit to hike it, except for the first two miles, which still require an online reservation and payment system that opens 30 days in advance at 12 AM.
The pedestrian passes with parking access for Haena State Park sell out in a minute... ($10 for parking and $5 per person).
There’s a shuttle system, but at $40 per person, we’ll pass.
For today, we only have a pedestrian pass, but I found this parking spot at Haena Beach Park after digging around online.
Our goal for the day is to reach Hanakapiai Beach, 3 miles from the parking lot, and maybe hike to the waterfall, which adds another 2 miles.
Then we’ll have to do the whole thing in reverse...
With all the photo stops and unplanned breaks just to get to the state park, we quickly realized it wouldn’t be easy...
We set off from Haena Beach, which was pretty deserted at this early hour.
We walked along the beach and soaked in the moment.
About three-quarters of the way there, we stopped dead in our tracks—a Hawaiian monk seal was lying on the sand. They’re pretty rare to spot.
It was stunning, and we watched it snooze for a long time.
We arrived at Ke'e Beach, one of Kauai’s most beautiful beaches, still in the shade.
For the first time, we caught a glimpse of the Napali Coast in the distance.
Starting the Kalalau trail with lush vegetation right from the beginning.
It climbs steeply. The trail is known to be tough, and the path is quite uneven.
We’re lucky to have amazing weather, but if the trail is wet, it must be dangerous.
I’ll let the photos speak for themselves. An extraordinary day, absolutely stunning.
Everything was perfect. As the day went on, more people showed up, but it never felt crowded.
We reach Hanakapiai Beach and settle on the rocks to eat our snacks.
The water has risen high, and the sandy beach has disappeared—only rocks remain.
When the tide is out, there seem to be two caves at the ends of the beach.
No matter the season, swimming here is discouraged due to strong currents.
But there’s a river flowing into the ocean that forms large natural pools right in front of the beach.
Time to break out the swimsuits! [;)]
We have a pool all to ourselves, and it feels amazing after all that effort.
Hardly anyone is swimming—probably because the water’s pretty chilly.
All good things must come to an end, and we're hitting the return trail.
A few aches in the legs, but that dip really did us good.
We skip the waterfall—no energy for running today.
We make a long stop along the way to try and spot whales (we only see a distant blow).
We take our time admiring Ke'e Beach from above.
Then from below, with a quick swim stop.
In winter, it's often closed because it's dangerous. Today, no problem, but you can really feel the current between the shore and the sandbar just offshore.
Lifeguards keep a close eye and warn the overly reckless.
That sandbar is pretty fun—it doubles as a diving board. This beach is truly stunning, with water that has a unique greenish hue (access is paid and requires a reservation through Haena State Park, or like us, you can come from Haena Beach).
Initially, we planned to hitchhike back to the parking lot, but we decide to retrace our steps along the beach, which gives us the chance to see a second monk seal.
We're on a roll!
Like the other one, it barely moves.
They need rest and to warm up in the sun.
As soon as they're spotted (which wasn't the case for this one), a safety perimeter is set up around them.
We’ll pick up the car that’s been waiting patiently for us and wrap up this beautiful day with a sunset at Hanalei Bay.
Hanalei is a real heart-stealer—we’ll spend more time there later. It’s especially known for its Pier and for having fairly calm waters, even in winter (the North Shore beaches are particularly exposed).
The last photo shows our dinner at Chicken in a Barrel in Hanalei—a great deal at 32 € for two, drinks included (a delicious half-chicken with rice and beans, barbecue-cooked with a smoky flavor that’s *so* good—I’m drooling just looking at the photo).
End of the second day. Work and everyday worries already feel far away.
Thanks, Kauai! [:)]
Day 3: Helicopter Tour/Snorkeling at Poipu Beach/Kuilau Ridge Trail
After yesterday’s day filled with blue and green hues, what does this new day have in store for us???
I’ve got to say, Christelle and I are really hoping it’ll be amazing.
We booked a helicopter tour weeks in advance, which will let us fly over Kauai and the breathtaking landscapes of the Na Pali Coast, with its cliffs carved by erosion and eaten away by the ocean (some over 1,200 m high).
This is Kauai’s must-do activity. If you can only pick one thing to do in Hawaii, I’d recommend this.
You’ll fly over the whole island: the area around Lihue, Waimea Canyon, waterfalls, the Na Pali Coast, and the North Shore, etc.
Just so you know, the Na Pali Coast isn’t accessible by car, so unless you’re hiking the Kalalau Trail, you’ll have to see it by sea or air.
It’s best to take a morning flight because the mist rolls in quickly—ideally between 9 AM and 12 PM (we chose 9:30 AM).
For us, it was a door-off flight because it’s better for photos, and honestly, we weren’t scared or dizzy at all.
The flight was with a company that uses small helicopters for a maximum of 3 passengers. The one-hour flight was completely private for an extra cost of about 20 € more, if I remember correctly, compared to a 5-passenger helicopter.
Given the price difference, we didn’t hesitate long—we didn’t want to be stuck in the middle.
We were lucky with the weather and got an eyeful of stunning views.
It’s one of my best travel memories. Honestly, during the flight, I almost cried it was so beautiful.
The pilot sat in front, and we were in the back.
Little tip: On the left side, you’ll get the best views of Waimea Canyon and the waterfalls, and the right side is the best spot for the Na Pali Coast. The pilot does his best to make sure everyone gets a good look.
All that really worked up our appetite.
Off to Poipu Beach to grab a hot dog and lemonade at Puka Dog.
Quite a line, but the Hawaiian-sauce hot dog wasn’t bad at all.
Christelle had never swum with turtles before, and it was on her to-do list.
So we headed to Poipu Beach on the south shore, which is famous for that.
From what we read on forums, it seems to be the most touristy beach on Kauai because it’s shallow for kids and the turtles are there (especially after noon if you’re hoping to see them). In February, the crowds were pretty reasonable.
We step onto the beach and—boom—they’re already there! On the sand, we count six big turtles (13/14 by the time we leave).
We start with some snorkeling to the right of the beach to play around with the fish (a bit of current, though).
We move closer to the turtles on the sand—some are coming in, others heading back out to the ocean (struggling a bit because of the rocks in their way).
They swim right past us in the water. So beautiful.
We don’t touch them—it’s better for them and for us (on the beach, there’s even a safety perimeter so they can rest undisturbed).
It wasn’t easy to leave, but as we headed back to our place, we decided to do the Kuilau Ridge Trail for sunset—a roughly 1-hour hike that lets you admire the heart of Kauai (most others are more ocean-view focused). It’s sold as a pretty easy hike with beautiful views of the island’s lush green interior.
In the end, it was a total *coup de cœur*. We only passed 2 or 3 people coming down as we were arriving. The trail climbs through the forest, but it’s easy.
We found ourselves completely immersed, alone, with the sounds of the forest and birdsong all around. I got some incredible videos of the moment.
Scenery-wise, the forest trail could almost be in France—there are trees that remind you of the savanna, but also primary forest vegetation.
Magical! For us, this trail is underrated.
On the way back, night falls fast, and the trail gets overrun with tiny frogs jumping everywhere.
Back at the studio for a well-deserved apéro. A splendid day! (Wait, did I already say that???)
The pilot sat in front and the two of us in the back
If the pilot had sat in the back and you in front, would you have been the one flying then [;)]?
__
I really like this travel journal because it’s a destination that doesn’t seem to be described much here, and it gives interesting info—through the text and photos—just enough to spend a pleasant moment and make you want to go check it out [:)]
To be continued...
un chemin et la caresse du vent, alors je pars en voyage...
This morning, another early wake-up to reach Koke'e State Park, a two-hour drive from Princeville since we had to go to the other end of the only road that circles the island. A bit frustrating since we're close as the crow flies. To avoid the mist, we decide not to dawdle. Weather-wise, it's sunny [:)]
Koke'e State Park has a bunch of beautiful hikes (some even stunning) that let you get close to the ridges (cliffs, some over 1,200 meters above the ocean).
We opted for the Awa'awapuhi Trail with some apprehension: about 10 km round trip on a trail that descends roughly 500 meters on the way there. So, on the way back, it's a tough climb! Physically, we're not at our best—Christelle took a bad fall a month ago, and I've had sciatica for six months...
Two-thirds of the trail is in the forest: it's pleasant but without any particular views.
The start of the trail
The trail is passable but sometimes tricky with roots and big rocks
After leaving the park, we stopped at Red Dirt Falls, which we had spotted on our arrival day while heading to Waimea Canyon.
It feels like we're in the American West!
We ended the day at the Lemon Grass restaurant in Kapaa on our way back. The coconut-coated shrimp was excellent—such a nice change from sandwich bread!
All in all, it was a beautiful day with perfect weather again. We went to bed happy and satisfied to have made it to the end. Ideally, we should’ve done this hike before the helicopter ride for an even bigger "wow" effect!
We did the same trip! :) I went in 2019. Such a great memory, especially Kauai—except for the (unexpected) car rental price on the second island we visited (Big Island)...
Mon blog de voyage : http://xn--duncontinentlautre-qrb.com
We’re both lucky then!
Did you rent a 4-wheel drive for Big Island?
Hi Pascale,
Nope, just a totally normal car. I’d booked well in advance, as usual—and like the first car on Kauai—but the final price was nearly doubled (no idea why). It ruined the second half of my trip, so much so that I returned the car a day or two early.
Mon blog de voyage : http://xn--duncontinentlautre-qrb.com
It’s such a shame that ruined the end of your trip [:/]
I just saw the link to your blog—thanks a million! It’s thanks to that I was able to find info about the Haena Beach Park parking lot for the Kalalau Trail !
I just saw the link to your blog: a thousand thanks because it was thanks to it that I was able to find the info for the Haena Beach Park parking for the Kalalau Trail!
Haha, you're welcome! The blog’s been dead for ages, but there’s still quite a bit of info left. [:)]
Mon blog de voyage : http://xn--duncontinentlautre-qrb.com
Better late than never—I finally caught up on everything and... wow, it’s gorgeous!
I was worried Hawaii would be too "Americanized," but turns out there’s also a ton of (beautiful) nature.
All this is making me want to look into this destination more—well, except for the flight to get there [:/]
Si tu diffères de moi, mon frère, loin de me léser, tu m'enrichis (Saint Exupéry)
Already the last day on Kauai. The day promises to be more relaxed since we’re staying in the north of the island, so not much driving today.
Back at the studio parking lot, we meet up with our trusty steed—its trunk looking more and more like my kids’ bedroom...
Headed to Queens Bath in Princeville, a natural pool that can be dangerous in winter.
No luck—they’ve completely banned access, so it’s impossible to get there. Even stopping by car will cost you several hundred euros in fines.
That said, the surrounding area is still charming!
Princeville—you either love it or hate it, apparently. It’s the cliché of a wealthy American town, but you’ve got to admit they’ve got good taste. We look pretty pathetic with our economy car in the parking lot.
Must-stop spots at Hanalei Valley Lookout to see the taro fields, then at Hanalei Bay Lookout by the roadside.
In Hanalei, the church and its surroundings are super cute too.
Beautiful vegetation on the Club Med Trail, a walk of about 40 minutes on private property, but
you’re allowed to go there as long as you don’t get too close to the ruins of a Club Med that, I think, never opened.
The ruins are being reclaimed by nature. The trail itself isn’t particularly interesting,
but it has the unique feature of offering a high-up view of the pier.
Another perk: its starting point is right next to Nourish Hanalei, where you can enjoy
bowls that you’ll *have* to share with the chickens and roosters—whether you want to or not—because yes, the roosters are stronger than you and attack in organized packs.
All with a magical view of Hanalei, its river, and its bay.
Wow, the beauty of your last photo just makes me think of paradise on earth, Pascale 😍.
Nothing to do with the Hawaii I had in my preconceived ideas!
Hi there :)
Your messages really speak to me because it was the opposite for me.
That’s exactly how I imagined Hawaii, and I would’ve been pretty disappointed if it hadn’t been the case.
All the Hawaiian islands are different and varied—you just have to choose the ones you visit based on what you’re looking for.
For us, Kauai, the Garden Isle, was our number one.
No regrets: the north of Kauai is paradise (the south is less charming, less wild, but sunnier).
Since you like getting off the beaten path, there’s also Molokai and Lanai—islands that are way less touristy than the four mentioned earlier (not a lot of info on them because they’re rarely visited).
I'm also heading to Hawaii, which I never imagined would be like this!
Welcome, Agnès!
Often, the image of Hawaii is limited to Honolulu and its surroundings (maybe because of TV shows?). Honolulu is on Oahu, which is much more Americanized, populated, and touristy.
There’s really a way to make some amazing discoveries on these islands. We loved it.
We went at the end of February, beginning of March, and I think it was a good choice in terms of tourist crowds.
We hit the road again to get gas and then head to Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge, hoping to spot some whales.
No luck again, but it reminds us a bit of Brittany, I think.
On the other hand, we see some nēnēs—and nēnēs are protected
(I can already hear some of you letting loose in the comments…). They’re a species of goose endemic to Hawaii.
Snorkeling is calling, so we pick Anini Beach, which is supposed to be calmer than other north shore beaches in winter.
Good choice: the beach is gorgeous, not too crowded, with fish and two turtles. There’s a bit of current, but it’s manageable.
Mission turtles: more than accomplished. But still no whales in sight
On the way back, we visited the Hanalei market with the option to buy fridge magnets.
Back at the Haena Beach Park parking lot: on the other side of the road is the Maniniholo Dry Cave. It’s not really beautiful, but its dimensions are pretty impressive.
We ended this day (which wasn’t so relaxing after all!) at Tunnels Beach, reputed to be the most beautiful beach on Kauai. It *is* gorgeous, but the light was already fading. I think I preferred Anini.
In Hawaii, they don’t know about the Coastal Law... But the houses are always well integrated into the landscape and they’re actually quite nice...
To wrap up the trip, we went back for a final dinner at Chicken in a Barrel—still good and not (too) expensive.
Continuation of Day 5[:)]
On the other hand, we see nēnēs and nēnēs are protected
(I can feel some people are gonna let loose in the comments...), it's a species of endemic goose in Hawaii.
Since we're invited to, we won't hold back [;)]
That said, nēnēs in Hawaii, it's like a postcard image, right? Just missing some scallop shells to hide them, and we're top level.
Plus, nēnēs being geese, what could be more normal!
We're good here, right? [:P]
"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux."
Marcel Proust
No, she keeps a travel journal with photos of her meals (I love it, food is part of the trip [:)])
That said, in Hawaii, we packed freeze-dried soup packets in our suitcases to save on food costs
Hello Pascale,
I read your trip to Kauai in one go, and it really makes me want to go there! 😍
Such beautiful landscapes, what a wonderful destination! 🤩
We went to Hawaii for 3 weeks in August 2017—one week per island: Oahu, Big Island, and Maui (I kept a travel journal at the time 😊). We didn’t choose Kauai; we had to pick one, but we promised ourselves we’d go back. Your journal is making me move this destination to the top of my list! 👍.
"Voyager est un triple plaisir : l'attente, l'éblouissement et le souvenir." Ilka Chase
