Changing islands this morning, not without a pang of sadness.
The plane takes off at 11 AM, and we have about an hour’s drive to the airport.
We decide to admire the Wailua Falls (double waterfall) along the way.
Before, you could go down to the base of the falls, but it’s now prohibited.
We didn’t get the chance to explore the Wailua River area much during our stay due to lack of time, but there are some great hikes and activities nearby.
The island transfer goes smoothly, and we quickly realize Oahu will show us a different side—more urbanized, but we knew that before coming. Ideally, it would’ve been better to end with Kauai, but logistically, it was more complicated for car rentals, and we would’ve lost time.
New car—still economical and white this time.
Just so you know, if you want to treat yourself on the roads, for about 100 € more, we could’ve had a nice American car like a Camaro.
We only spent the last night in Honolulu for proximity to the airport and head straight to the north of the island, to Haleiwa—the place to be in winter for giant waves and a snorkeling hotspot (we hope to do some despite the season).
We’re staying at Backpackers Vacation Inn, a youth hostel that has private rooms.
Christelle and I tried this concept in Iceland and really liked it. You just have to be okay with sharing a communal bathroom (always clean so far).
Hostels have really evolved. They help keep accommodation costs under control in places like Iceland and Hawaii and also let you meet cool people.
Not so much here, though—there were very few people.
The wall decor gets us in the vacation mood.
The big advantage is that this hostel is perfectly located—you can’t get any better!
Right across the street is Three Tables, a magical snorkeling spot.
Well, right now, the beach is closed.
I really don’t understand why...
Another gem in the North, in a different style [;)], is the shrimp food truck.
Pictured: spicy shrimp that were *way* too spicy!
For the view, we’re right in front of Sharks Cove, another snorkeling hotspot—but again, access is closed. It looks calm, but a lifeguard truck blocks any attempt anyway.
Suddenly, in the distance, we spot a humpback whale.
She’s far away, but you can tell she’s putting on a real show.
She lifts her tail and slaps the water’s surface.
Pure euphoria
Anyway, we can’t linger because we’ve booked a whale-watching tour.
For whale watching, we preferred booking a zodiac in the North (around 14 passengers) rather than a cheaper trip to Waikiki on big boats.
Our whale-watching tour started with a quick run-in with a rude older American tourist (he was near the front of the boat, right in front of Christelle, and stayed standing during the crossing. We couldn’t look for whales—all we could see was his backside). We very politely asked him to sit down. He complied but yelled at us, "Good now?")
Older folks need some educating these days
We saw whales—lots of them.
Oahu is the second-best Hawaiian island for whale watching in winter (the undisputed queen is Maui). That also influenced our choice.
We often saw them in pairs.
Unfortunately, they were pretty far away (boats aren’t allowed to get too close, but sometimes luck plays its part).
We would’ve loved to be in that boat’s position (sorry for the framing—you never know when they’ll appear).
We ended this transition day with a gorgeous sunset, then off to bed because tomorrow’s another day... (not to be missed...)
No idea, Muriel, but I'm usually cold-sensitive and I wasn't cold at all on Kauai or Oahu.
We often stayed in the water for long stretches—no problem at all!
This snorkeling spot looks amazing—like a washing machine! 😄
Wow, the whales! I’ve been to so many places where they are, but I’ve never been there at the right time 🤦♀️.
But it’s also great to still have dreams to chase 😊
Le monde est comme un miroir, si tu lui souris, il te sourit aussi!
What, you didn’t recognize the music???
The one that lulled my whole childhood and because of which my sister stubbornly refused to dip a toe in the water for a month in Greece when it was over 40°C
Jaws!
One of Oahu’s highlight activities is going to tease the sharks.
You’ve got two choices: with a cage or without.
According to my research, cage diving is more of a *Shark Attack* vibe because they come closer and more aggressively.
We decided—despite some initial apprehension—to go swimming with them.
We picked a local company that accepts a maximum of 8 snorkelers.
The fact that they allow kids from age 8 put us a bit more at ease.
And the reviews on T........or were so excellent, and since we’re clearly a little crazy, we said GO!
We took the first slot, hoping to spot whales on the way (they’re more visible in the early morning) and because the ocean is usually calmer.
The crew consists of the captain (who stays on the boat) and two divers (one for photos/videos and the other for safety).
The photos and videos were included in the price, which let us be more present.
Our crew (missing Babe, the sister, who’s taking the photos and videos)
The boat heads out to open sea since the dive takes place in the middle of the ocean, in a specific zone.
The little story goes that the grandfather used to retrieve fishing traps in this spot, so the sharks are used to hanging around (though at the end of the dive, I still spotted some fish bits in the water—probably to keep them around the whole time).
Bingo, a magnificent whale back!
We arrive at the spot, and the boat starts making big circles in the water to say, "Hey, we’re here!"
And so are they—and now it’s time to get in the water...
And now you’re probably wondering if Christelle survived (since I still have my fingers to write this travel journal ).
The answer is yes!
The shark is really curious and comes super close.
We only saw two (which was enough for a first time), but sometimes there can be *a lot* of them. They’re Galapagos sharks—the ones usually seen in greater numbers in the area—but tiger sharks can also show up (between June and October).
A few photos to capture the moment:
Getting in the water is stressful, but afterward, it’s an experience you *have* to try.
It’s actually really calming, almost zen.
The shark, just below the surface, is stunning with its golden/silvery color under the sunlight.
It undulates, and it’s almost mesmerizing to see the power and agility of the animal.
And that water color—this deep blue.
The color in real life is close to what you see in the first two photos (I pulled the next ones from a video and did some screen captures with color adjustments because they were too bright).
I’m waiting, I’m waiting!
What a moment!
We thought we’d already hit peak luck on this trip.
Well, we were wrong [:P]
Here we are, Christelle and I, quietly daydreaming with our Galapagos shark, keeping a close eye on it (you’ve got to watch these creatures and never turn your back while swimming at full speed if you’re scared, according to the instructions).
But above the surface, things are getting pretty wild!
Our dive safety guy is shouting.
We try to understand what he’s yelling and make out, "Did you see it, did you see it, did everyone see it???"
See what? Christelle’s face says she didn’t see anything either
We dip our heads back underwater.
Nothing to the right, nothing to the left.
It’s happening below us.
What unbearable suspense...
Under our shark, a large dark mass is approaching, like a bubble rising to the surface.
A humpback whale is surfacing right in front of us.
I nearly choke on my snorkel!
At that moment, I can tell you we completely forgot about the shark
I don’t even know what happened to it.
I hope our dive safety guy had our backs because we sure didn’t!
I’m kicking frantically, trying to follow her because it’s just too amazing, but our dive safety guy pulls me back by the foot because I’m too close.
I pop my head out of the water and find myself with Christelle at the surface.
We see several spouts and realize there are actually multiple whales!!!
We only saw one. I don’t know if it’s because we were so absorbed by the one right under our noses or if the camera, with its wide angle, caught something we couldn’t see with our own eyes.
I have incredible videos of this moment.
Below, I’ve included a very high-contrast screenshot.
You can clearly see in the background a mom with her calf.
Wow! What luck with that whale! That must be an incredible experience you’ll remember for a long time (it’s even better when it’s unexpected, I think) 😲
Si tu diffères de moi, mon frère, loin de me léser, tu m'enrichis (Saint Exupéry)
I mentioned in the intro that the humpback whale is my favorite animal.
I have a poster of a whale and its calf right in front of my computer at the office.
My dream became reality.
What’s extraordinary is that I experienced this moment completely spontaneously.
On the way back to the port, I was so stressed that Babe hadn’t been able to capture this moment.
And I felt for the next group of divers we saw boarding the boat—poor things.
Because according to the company, it was the first time they’d seen them like that.
They’re usually afraid of boats and don’t approach them.
They were just as excited as we were
But none of the other snorkelers (all American) reacted. Unbelievable!!!
This moment impacted the rest of the trip—it was hard to move on after that.
And yet, the day still brought its share of beautiful things.
First, tacos with homemade guacamole at Surf n' Salsa.
Delicious and cheap (in Haleiwa).
Then a little nap at the hostel because we were emotionally and physically drained.
Wow! That whale was such a lucky sight! It must be an amazing experience you’ll remember for a long time (it’s even better when it’s unexpected, I think) 🤩
Totally, Muriel!
There were actually 3 of them.
In the videos, you can hear them singing too
Well, you know, Agnès, in the end, I think I was more afraid of coming face-to-face with them while swimming or snorkeling alone rather than in the context of a supervised outing.
The diver who ensured safety goes into the water first and assesses the situation.
He went in without any special equipment.
The two sharks came up from the depths pretty quickly, and he asked the captain for the harpoon gun.
After that, he keeps an eye on you and gets you back on the boat if needed (which wasn’t our case).
I’d read that some tourists had to go back on board several times because there was a tuna school that was getting the sharks too excited)
Okay, continuing with day 7 and the fish since sharks and whales seem to leave you guys cold.
After a well-deserved nap, we headed to Sharks Cove, the snorkeling paradise according to the info we gathered before the trip.
So excited—today, access is allowed (well, not really, there’s still the yellow tape, but tons of people are there).
Quick tip: water shoes are a must because you access the water and take the plunge among the rocks.
Before putting your head underwater, it doesn’t look like much.
Not very deep and quite a few people (in high season, it must be packed).
You’ve got to weave through the rocks the whole time.
But underwater, it’s amazing! Apparently, you can also see turtles here.
For us, it was just fish.
Some long ones
Some big ones
Some colorful ones
Some funny ones
A humuhumunukunukuapua'a (center of the photo)
And schools of fish everywhere (there are so many that the camera really struggles to focus)
We stayed so long that we ended up behind schedule because we’d planned a little trail for sunset nearby.
The Ehukai pillbox trail is a short hike of about 2 km that climbs steeply in places, but there are ropes for the toughest sections.
It leads to pillboxes (bunkers) with a clear, elevated view.
The view is really nice, and the bunker is open.
No luck for us—there were a bunch of young people there, including one who went on and on about his plan to get rich during the sunset... Poetry lovers, this wasn’t the night for it.
We ended up descending in the dark, but we’re getting used to it by now [;)]
We saw yellow caution tape marked "caution" several times, especially at Sharks Cove, meant to restrict access to the site.
I think with the winter season and the waves, they want to minimize accidents as much as possible.
The water was very calm that day at Sharks Cove (the next day would be another story)
We saw yellow caution tape marked "caution" several times, especially at Sharks Cove, supposedly to restrict access to the site.
I think with the winter season and the waves, they want to minimize accidents as much as possible.
We saw that in Australia too. Basically, they must assume that if they ban something and something happens to you, it’s your responsibility...
Anyway, given the waves in the last photo, it makes sense
About the sharks, I was actually unfazed because I’d seen that in South Africa too, and I don’t really agree with it—baiting these animals with a piece of barbecue for the tourist’s adrenaline rush isn’t my thing. But I respect everyone’s choices.
That said, the option you chose seems more respectful to the animal and allowed you to fulfill one of your dreams—getting up close with cetaceans...
Anyway, don’t panic, I’m in a good position to realize that right now, VF is suffering from spring narcolepsy...
"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux."
Marcel Proust
That’s right, Bruno, the May long weekends are a great chance to unplug!
Actually, I’m on a train back from Creuse—a dream spot for those who love "off the beaten path" 😄.
But I’m blown away by that unexpected whale encounter, Pascale!! That’s what you call "getting your money’s worth" because I imagine it costs an arm and a leg, but you really hit the jackpot there 😍
Le monde est comme un miroir, si tu lui souris, il te sourit aussi!
I can confirm it was a great experience—swimming with the sharks was amazing and respectful to the animals. And the best part? The sharks respected *us* too [;)]
I can’t say for sure if it was the crew who threw the two pieces of fish: I didn’t see a cooler on the boat, they really emphasize the ecological aspect of the experience, and I didn’t see them do it. Plus, it was right at the end.
But yeah, I saw the pieces and drew what might’ve been a hasty conclusion.
Like all activities in the US, it’s not cheap.
We paid 92 € per person (after hunting for deals).
But it’s a 2-hour activity.
To get to the site in the open ocean, there’s over 20 minutes of boat ride each way (plus 3 staff for supervision/navigation).
The end of the trip is fast approaching.
This morning is all about the giant waves on Oahu’s North Shore (in winter).
That’s pretty much why we came to this island in the first place!
We head to Waimea Bay Beach, just a stone’s throw from our hostel.
It’s a legendary surf spot for those in the know (this is where the Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational takes place every year—we missed it by a hair!)
It’s still early, and we’re enjoying the beautiful light.
There are already quite a few people here to take in the show.
Honestly, when you see the size of those waves in the distance (or even up close), you really have to be a die-hard...
Most of the surfers here are in their forties, not exactly young.
The biggest waves are pretty far from the shore, and just getting out to them is a battle.
In front of us, a less experienced surfer gives it a shot too.
We finally left Waimea Bay, not without difficulty.
Heading to the other beaches on the North Shore.
No more surfers in sight, just the rough sea, but it’s still just as beautiful.
Some legendary names pass by before our eyes.
Even if some "locals" couldn’t care less .
Last Big Waves and last shrimp before heading east.
First stop in Laie to catch a glimpse of the Mormon temple.
You may or may not like it, but it sure makes an impression!
You can't visit inside, but you're allowed to take photos if you stay at the entrance.
We won’t be alone for long.
No sooner do we arrive than volunteers approach us in a vain attempt at "recruiting."
We won’t be sticking around...
Next stop at the Byodo-In Temple, a replica of a Japanese temple nestled in a beautiful setting.
To get there, the road passes by a Pacific War cemetery (Pearl Harbor is on the island of Oahu).
The Byodo-In can be visited very quickly—there’s not much to see inside except for a Buddha statue.
Admission is paid (around 6 €), so it’s up to you if it’s worth it.
It’s really pretty, though.
We're hitting the road again to discover Lanikai Beach, touted as the most beautiful on Oahu—maybe even all of Hawaii.
Lanikai Beach isn’t easy to get to—before you can settle on the sand, you’ve got to park the car first...
I’d read that finding a spot wasn’t easy.
Turns out, it’s actually completely forbidden to park on the shoulders or in the surrounding streets
We ended up finding a spot much farther uphill and walked about 20 minutes to Lanikai.
The walk is tough because it’s so hot, but you still get some great views along the way.
On the way, you can see the bunkers overlooking the beach, which offer a perfect view of the two tiny islands shaped like Chinese hats just offshore.
The hike is called the "Lanikai Pillbox Hike" (we skipped it out of laziness and because the weather was turning bad when we arrived).
The beach is indeed really beautiful.
There’s a very "American" marriage proposal happening right in front of us—a young man popping the question in a heart made of flowers, with everyone watching, plus a wedding planner and her catalog right there.
Personally, it’s not my favorite beach.
Even though it’s not as crowded as the French Riviera, when you’re coming from Kauai with its almost-empty beaches, it still feels a bit much.
We watch the sunset and then head to spend our last night in Honolulu.
From the car, we catch the Hilton’s fireworks over Waikiki (every Friday night), but we barely make it to the end of *Eat the Street* (a monthly street food event). Yum! [:)]
Back to the hotel and bedtime—we’ve got an early wake-up call around 5:15 AM to catch the sunrise over Diamond Head (an old volcano with an amazing view of Honolulu after a nice climb).
This morning, the day starts at full speed around 5:15 AM because we have a meet-up for the sunrise at Diamond Head.
Well, sort of, since we don’t have wheels anymore .
The car disappeared overnight
Goodbye Diamond Head, we retrieve our car 20 km from Honolulu at the impound lot after a major stress moment and an unplanned Uber ride...
All’s well that ends well, well, almost!
So for photos of Diamond Head, check out Isabelle’s travel journal (Rouquine38).
We continue with a visit to the Punchbowl National Cemetery (Pacific Cemetery) on the heights of Honolulu.
It offers a nice view of the city (which I didn’t find particularly pretty, by the way, but we only visited it very quickly).
Just a heads-up that parking in Honolulu is a real issue.
Honolulu is often recommended as a base for visiting Oahu.
It’s close to the airport, there are plenty of accommodations, and they’re often cheaper than elsewhere—but watch out for extra costs like parking.
Our hotel charged $40 a day for parking, and that’s pretty much the going rate...
There are free spots, especially along the Ala Wai Canal where we parked, but they’re snapped up fast.
Funny story: we found an open spot right in front of a fire hydrant installed on the lawn. No "no parking" signs, no markings on the ground.
But in the U.S., that’s totally off-limits, even if it’s not clearly marked.
We had booked online in advance for the free visit to the USS Arizona Memorial, which also includes an exhibition retracing the events of the Japanese attack on December 7, 1941, which claimed the lives of over 2,400 men, including 1,177 on the battleship USS Arizona alone.
The memorial seems to have been partly funded by an E. Presley charity concert, and it was built directly above the wreck, which rests in shallow water (the victims' bodies still remain inside). You access it by boat.
We’re on a U.S. military base, and the visit is very structured and organized with military precision.
We didn’t opt for a more in-depth tour of the site, but there are different options available. It’s hard to imagine the chaos that must have unfolded in such a setting.
I couldn’t see myself coming to Hawaii without visiting Pearl Harbor, and I found the memorial and exhibition both informative and well done. I liked the souvenir shop at the exit less—it felt a bit out of place to me, but that’s just my opinion.
We couldn’t leave Hawaii without stopping by Waikiki, a must-see for any self-respecting tourist.
It reminded me a bit of Vegas—kind of kitschy but without the charm. Either way, it didn’t win me over. For souvenir shopping, though, it’s the place to be!
It’s also the perfect time to try a Shave Ice, a local specialty of shaved ice topped with syrup.
We stroll along the beach under scorching heat and eventually come across "Duke", revered like a god by surfers and one of his followers.
First time I’ve seen a banyan tree! [:)]
At Waikiki, the sky is blue and the ocean is turquoise.
But it’s packed, and you also see some young homeless people who are high, sleeping on the ground.
The good side—it’s not bad at all.
The flip side—it’s less appealing. [:/]
We decided not to swim despite the heat.
Only two hours there, and we’d rather head out toward the East Coast.
Just caught up—I was off wandering! 😄
Those waves were insane. August wasn’t the right season, so we promised ourselves we’d go back in winter—not to surf, but for the photos 😉
Yeah, Honolulu and Waikiki aren’t *must-sees*, but you can’t go to Hawaii without checking out the iconic spots.
"Voyager est un triple plaisir : l'attente, l'éblouissement et le souvenir." Ilka Chase
I think winter in Hawaii is the best season: the waves, the whales, and fewer tourists.
Our weather was great, but that’s less reliable as a criterion.
Plus, I’ve read lots of travel journals about Hawaii in the summer where the weather was far from ideal.
You might also want to check the Spring Break dates ahead of time
We had planned a final dip at Waimanalo Beach Park, but on the way, we decided to make a stop at a viewpoint to try and see the whales one last time.
Success! We spotted a spout in the distance.
And most of all, we came across this:
This beach looks amazing (and it is).
Change of plans—it would be Makapu'u Beach Park after all (we parked in a roadside nook, but there’s a parking lot, restrooms, and showers on-site).
Our flight wasn’t until 11:30 PM, so we had plenty of time to enjoy it.
Especially since there were some great waves to relive our inner child in! [;)]
And for the second time during the trip, we heard a family speaking French right next to us.
I have to say, it’s really refreshing and rare to run into so few fellow countrymen.
The sunset was at Waimanalo Beach Park, a huge stretch of fine sand almost deserted at that hour.
A stop at McDonald’s for a last typical meal , then off to the airport. First flight to Canada (which ended up grounded for two hours due to a technical issue—just to reassure the traveler!), a ten-hour layover in Calgary spent resting at a day-use hotel, and a second flight to Roissy before heading back to work the next day.
Thanks Pascale for this amazing travel journal.
Kauai totally wowed me and was dreamy, but the rest left me a bit underwhelmed (even though the whale encounter was fabulous... though you got really lucky ).
I didn’t see many volcanoes—was that because of the islands you chose, or did you focus more on the beaches?
Si tu diffères de moi, mon frère, loin de me léser, tu m'enrichis (Saint Exupéry)
Thanks to everyone who followed along on this travel journal!
Final thoughts on the islands we visited:
- Oahu
As you’ve probably gathered, it’s not my favorite, but that’s no surprise. I’m a fan of nature, wide-open spaces, and feeling like I’m somewhere totally different. Oahu is more urbanized, with all that comes with it: lots of tourists, more traffic, parking challenges…
Parking in Honolulu is paid (usually between $35 and $50 per night).
That said, we don’t regret our visit at all: the North Shore and its surf vibe have charm, the East Coast has multiple stunning and varied beaches, and of course, we got to see giant waves, swim with sharks and whales, and snorkel like we were in an aquarium…
Oahu is also cheaper for accommodation and food.
There are tons of trails, some of which look amazing (we’d planned to do "Crouching Lion" and "Lanikai Pillbox Trail," for example).
The nature is beautiful but less jaw-dropping and lush compared to Kauai.
It’s also a more varied island in terms of activities (not just nature-based ones).
We were short on time (and budget [;)]) but you can visit Kualoa Ranch (film sets like Jurassic Park), the Polynesian Cultural Center, etc…
- Kauai
Nature in all its glory. Huge, magical, stunning.
Our base was in the North, in Princeville.
For me, this area is a must-see (Princeville, Hanalei, Haena State Park…).
If billionaires built their homes here (well, one of their homes), there’s a reason.
It’s also a matter of luck because the North gets more rain.
The South is less beautiful and more touristy but sunnier.
Staying in the North means you’re in the prettiest part, but it also means lots of driving since there’s only one road that loops around the island.
Ideally, book two accommodations during your stay.
But finding reasonably priced lodging in Kauai takes *a lot* of planning.
Little tip: there are pretty rustic cabins in Kokee State Park, and they’re perfect for exploring the park and Waimea Canyon. Unfortunately, they weren’t open for reservations yet when we booked everything (cabins at Kokee Park).
There are other fun activities, like surfing or paddleboarding on the Hanalei River or Wailua River…
Splurging on a doors-off helicopter ride is absolutely breathtaking.
I’d have a hard time going back to Hawaii without stopping in Kauai
We actually did more hiking than beach time, but we always found a moment to go and chill there.
We’re not really the sunbathing-on-the-beach type.
But after hiking every day, it feels so good!
As for the volcanoes, it was mostly because of the islands we chose. (On Oahu, we had planned Diamond Head, which is a volcano but more of a climb.)
If you want volcanoes, head to Big Island! It’s the perfect place for that.
But we had too little time to really enjoy it (the island is huge), and we’d been to Iceland not long before, so it wasn’t our priority.
Our ideal trip with more time would’ve been Big Island/Kauai (and more, of course, if possible).
On Maui, check out Haleakala National Park—the volcano looks magical.
Thanks for all this info!
I’ll dig into it a bit more… even if the accommodation budget won’t be the same as in the Cyclades 😅 (or even the Seychelles).
Si tu diffères de moi, mon frère, loin de me léser, tu m'enrichis (Saint Exupéry)
