Nous arriverons fin octobre en Amérique du Sud... et je me casse la tête sur une partie de notre itinéraire:
Nous arriverons à Buenos Aires et souhaitons commencer par nous rendre à Iguaçu à vélo.
De là nous pensions rallier Mendoza en bus et descendre jusqu'à Ushuaia, côté argentin jusqu'à futaleufu puis Chili jusque villa o higgins puis...
Nous pensions remonter en prenant le bus Ushuaia - Punta Arenas puis Punta Arenas - Osorno (ou Castro, c'est le même bus) puis, remonter jusqu'à Valparaiso en vélo ou bus (ou un mixte des 2)
La route des 7 lacs ayant bcp souffert de l'éruption du puyehue et mes parents nous rejoignant peut-être début avril à Mendoza, nous pensons maintenant descendre par le Chili en traversant les Andes entre Mendoza et Valparaiso et puis descendre depuis Valparaiso, en passant par l'ile de Chiloe et en restant côté chilien jusqu'à Villa O Higgins.
Pensez-vous que le mieux est effectivement de commencer vers Mendoza ou vaudrait-il mieux commencer plus "bas" et garder la zone que l'on aurait zappée pour la remontée?
Si on commençait plus bas comment nous y rendre "facilement" en bus depuis Iguaçu?
Quel itinéraire serait le + facile en bus pour remonter d'Ushuaia à Mendoza? (Même question pour Bariloche)
Sinon si vous connaissez un site qui permet de chercher des itinéraires en bus je suis preneuse, là j'utilise celui d'andesmar pour l'Argentine mais il ne donne que les bus direct, pour chercher un itinéraire avec plusieurs bus, c'est par essai erreur.
Sinon j'ai l'impression que les bus sont nettement moins cher au Chili qu'en Argentine, je me trompe?
Merci d'avance,
Angélique
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve (Antoine de Saint Exupéry)
Il est bien plus réaliste de suivre un axe nord sud en permanence que de faire des allers retours en bus ;en Patagonie le vent est plutôt favorable dans ce sens.
Mendoza Santiago c'est très joli.Santiago Puerto Montt :sans intérèt par la panam(pour moi) nous avons pris le bus sur 1400kms mais par Valparaiso celà doit ètre sympa mais il faut du temps.
Jean
Juste une précision concernant l'"axe", même si on fait Mendoza - Ushuaia en vélo sans prendre le bus, on devra ensuite remonter en bus pour poursuivre notre voyage vers le NO argentin, la Bolivie, le Pérou, ...
Au départ nous avions pensé commencer de Zapala plutôt que de Mendoza... mais en prenant direct le bus pour Neuquen à notre arrivée à Buenos Aires... alors que maintenant nous avons intercallé Iguaçu avant, ayant du mal à renoncer aux chutes (et à la découverte de cette région).
Faudrait-il placer Iguaçu plus tard dans notre parcours...? Bref c'est un peu casse-tête de choisir le meilleur itinéraire en fonction des grandes distances à parfois parcourir en bus, des saisons... et de nos souhaits. Pratiquement tout sera dans l'Ouest de l'Amérique du Sud, entre Ushuaia et Quito... et en Amérique Centrale si l'envie est encore présente après... sauf Iguaçu qui est franchement "sur le côté".
Enfin toutes les idées sont les bienvenues, on fera le tri dans tout ça par la suite.
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve (Antoine de Saint Exupéry)
A remonter par moyen motorisé, autant prendre le Ferry Navimag coté chilien et explorer la Patagonie chilienne ... c'est un MUST ! Excepté la contrainte financière, aucun inconvénient ...
On avait déjà repéré navimag... et effectivement si ce n'était le coût on n'hésiterait pas... là j'pense que ça va plutôt dépendre de ce qu'on aura déjà dépensé jusque là.
(Tu sais où ils mettent les vélos pendant la traversée? Et pour les bagages il y a de la place? J'ai l'impression que les dortoirs et cabines sont hyper étroits hors on est plus chargés que des backpackers)
L'argentine et le Chili risquent de nous coûter bien plus que prévu au départ. Il y a 1 an, ils parlaient de 100 pesos environ dans le lonely planet pour un trajet Buenos Aires - Iguaçu en bus... c'est maintenant presque 5 fois plus (recherche faite sur andesmar)
La traversée de Villa O Higgins à El Chalten c'est aussi plus de 100 euros chacun...
Enfin on verra si on peut économiser bcp sur le reste en faisant du camping sauvage et en cuisinant...
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve (Antoine de Saint Exupéry)
J'avais noté comme toi le coût relativement élevé des transports dans ces deux pays.
Je te confirme qu'il n'y a pas beaucoup de place pour ranger les affaires dans les box qui abritent chacun 4 lits, ( 2 lits superposés ), un peu comme dans des AJ. Cela-dit, il existe plusieurs formules et en tant que Backpacker infortuné, j'avais choisi la moins chère ... surement votre éventuel futur choix. Je pense quand même que vous devriez vous en sortir surtout si vous réussissez à obtenir un box collé à un mur de seulement 1 lit superposé. Il y a du coup plus de place et plus d'intimité ... et puis, vous dormez à deux dans un lit et vous rangez les sacoches sur l'autre !
C'est un Ferry destiné avant tout à transporter des marchandises et les soutes sont immenses. Je ne me rappelle pas y avoir vu des vélos, car moins intéressé par le concept à l'époque, mais des Australiens avec des planches à voiles, oui. Pour les vélos, pas de PB de place. Cette traversée est tellement réputé et bien rodée, je pense que les vélos y seront bien traités.
Le prix du billet est élevé, même pour les occidentaux, mais l'expérience est vraiment intéressante. C'est l'un de mes plus beaux souvenirs de voyage. C'est une mini croisière qui te permet de remonter une partie du continent tout en admirant un paysage extraordinaire : Fjord, glacier, escale dans un village, etc, ...
Il ne vous reste plus qu'à économiser le prix du billet .. dans les 370 dollars si mes souvenirs sont bon ???
C'est vrai que le coup du "on dort sur un lit et on met les affaires sur l'autre" c'est une bonne idée :p
C'est 380 en dortoir.
A 4 c'est à partir de 430. Ptet plus sûr pour dormir "correctement" et pour les vols, surtout si on rencontre un autre couple qui veut faire la traversée au même moment.
En avril c'est moins cher... mais comme nos parents vont ptet nous rejoindre pour les vacances de pâques il faudra être remontés avant.
Après bon on est pas fauchés non plus (on a économisé et on part pour une durée indéterminée... au pire le jour où on n'a plus assez on rentre mais normalement on a de quoi pour 2 ans sans trop de soucis tant qu'on a pas ce genre de dépenses "exceptionnelles" tout les mois), et donc si on estime que le rapport "intérêt/coût" est bon on peut se l'offrir, faudra qu'on y réfléchisse à 2...
Dans le même ordre d'idée si toi ou d'autres pourraient me dire ce qu'ils pensent de l'intérêt du W du parc torres del paine pour le coût que ça engendrerait (on se voit pas trop le faire en autonomie complète donc ce serait refuge). En faisant le tour des routes carrosables à vélo et en campant, peut-on quand même bien profiter du parc? (J'ai vu le récit de qq de VF qui avait fait ses ballades en 4X4 avec de temps en temps un peu de marche depuis le 4X4.
Pensez-vous qu'il soit risqué (question vols) de laisser les vélos chargés 1h ou 2 le temps de suivre un sentier avant d'y revenir?
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve (Antoine de Saint Exupéry)
Le W c'est superbe ... enfin, je ne l'ai pas fait pour diverses raisons. J'avais d'une part le Ferry à prendre et surtout, un budget " Ric-Rac " à respecter. Les dortoirs ne sont pas donné et je n'étais pas suffisamment équipé pour randonner en autonomie. Si vous avez tente, duvet et réchaud, n'hésitez pas car le retour d'expérience que j'ai eu des différents voyageurs est extraordinaire. Cet oubli est le pire regret de mon voyage TDM, c'est dire ....
Un bon filon : A Puerto Natales, rendez-vous à la " Casa Anita ". Anita est coiffeuse de profession mais reçoit également les voyageurs dans sa maison, simple mais agréable. Le plus intéressant, c'est que son mari est guide de haute montagne sur le W qu'il connait comme les lignes de sa main. C'est une mine d'information et il consacre volontier une partie de ses soirées à discuter avec les clients de sa femme, surtout si vous prenez les repas avec eux et que vous parlez Espagnol.
En plus, ils peuvent garder gratuitement les vélos et les surplus de bagage le temps de votre randonnée. La maison est gardé par un adorable " Pitbull Mexicain ", vos affaires sont en totale sécurité. J'y étais avec un couple de Belge qui avait passé quelques jours dans l'auberge avant leur Trek et qui y sont revenu quelques jours après, avant d'embarquer avec moi sur le Ferry. C'est la meilleure solution ...
Nous sommes actuellement à vélo entre Arica et Santiago du Chili via Bolivie et Argentine, nous roulons depuis un peu plus d'un mois. Nous avons effectué à…
Je suis a vélo en Amérique du sud. Actuellement en route pour Cordoba j irais ensuite vers Mendoza. La question que je pose concerne la partie Mendoza…
Actuellement à Mendoza, nous souhaitons nous rendre dans la région des lacs (Bariloche, Esquel, El Bolson). Nous souhaiterions descendre tout ça en vélo, mais…
La portion est t'elle interessante ou vaut'il mieux passer par la panam. côté chilien?? je me tâte à faire cette portion en bus? ou présente t'elle vraiment un…
Je suis actuellement en voyage à vélo en Amérique du Sud.je suis à Cafayate en Argentine. J'ai un problème avec mon pneu arrière qui va bientôt éclaté. Est ce…
I’ve got my flight ticket sorted—departing in mid-November and returning in mid-March. I’ll arrive in Santiago and leave from Buenos Aires.
I’ve already been to southern Argentina, specifically Torres del Paine National Park, and I’d love to go back to do the full W trek (I only did the shorter version last time).
I also want to do some hiking and maybe even tackle a summit. I climb and occasionally do some mountaineering, so I’ll definitely be going with a guide.
I plan to start around Temuco in Chile, with the idea of heading toward the lakes, then taking the Carretera Austral.
I’m not sure if I’ll go all the way to Ushuaia—it’s supposed to not be *that* worth it, except for the bragging rights of saying you’ve been to the end of the world.
I saw there are lakes in Argentina too.
I don’t have a precise itinerary, but what I’d love is, once I reach the southernmost point of my trip, to take a mini-cruise to see some wildlife. Any tips for that?
What kind of sleeping bag did you take? Is a 0°C (32°F) one enough?
And one last question: white gas stove or can I get by with my gas stove?
Hi there,
I’ve been road cycling for several years, and I’m about to switch to gravel in the next few days—I’m waiting for my bike, which should arrive this week.
I’m planning a bikepacking trip in a few weeks along the Véloroute V81, also known as the Vélosud, from Biarritz to Le Barcarès.
Has anyone here already done this route? Any info is welcome, whether it’s about the route itself, gear, or accommodation. I’ll prioritize staying with locals as much as possible. On that note, I just signed up for the brand-new site *Guidon et Couette* ((www.guidon-et-couette.fr)), which offers free accommodation between cyclists across the country, but there’s almost no one listed along my route!
Thanks in advance.
Laurent.
I'm developing a free and open-source web app for planning walking and cycling trips (and even car trips). You can create a route by clicking directly on the map to add waypoints, and it can consist of multiple stages. The app provides tools to edit the stages and the overall route, and to display useful information (distances, altitudes, and elevation changes). A relief profile can be shown as a graph for a specific stage or the entire route.
Once the route is ready, it can be exported as a GPX file, which can then be used with a GPS or a mobile navigation app.
The app is built in JavaScript and runs entirely in the web browser. It uses the Leaflet library and several OpenStreetMap-based services. Initially developed for my personal needs (I enjoy hiking and cycle touring), I’d be happy to share it with anyone who might find it useful. It’s free to use, doesn’t require an account, and the source code is available.
After testing it for three years across various modes of transport, I’m sharing this video of a bike packing case. It’s made from recycled cardboard and shrink-wrapped, with adjustable thickness and added bubble wrap depending on the level of protection you want.
Installing spacers at the fork and chainstays makes the packaging compact. With the fifteen-odd euros for shrink-wrapping at the airport, this case travels really well.
https://youtu.be/_GDJi-GqmkM
- Low bulk (1.10m x 0.70m x 0.25m for a large frame), it fits vertically in train luggage compartments and the total dimensions (x+y+z) don’t exceed 2.40m.
- Two carrying solutions for public transport and easy handling by airport staff (no more tears in the cardboard from openings).
- Discreet packaging when dealing with bus drivers and train conductors, as it looks like an ordinary parcel.
- No need to return to the starting point to retrieve the case from your outbound trip, which you’d otherwise have to store somewhere, or deal with a bulky cover to pack in your panniers.
- You can still check tire pressure through the plastic film without damaging the packaging too much.
Drawbacks: Around 3 hours for this lengthy and meticulous process—removing the wheels, pedals, handlebars, and derailleur without misaligning them, then securing all components to the frame.
If you get a chance to test it, send me your feedback for future improvements.
Hi there, I’m planning a cross-Canada bike trip, and I’ve got a question that might seem silly, but could someone tell me how to pack a bike (in a box, with a fragile sticker... I don’t know) for a flight? Thanks in advance!
This summer, we’re planning to cycle along the EV 19 that follows the Meuse River from Langres all the way to Rotterdam.
My question is about getting back to Nantes.
Do any of you know what the best return option might be? I’d love to hear about your experiences.
I saw that FlixBus doesn’t take bikes.
By train, I think it’s possible but would involve multiple local trains.
We were also wondering if there’s a boat from Rotterdam to Saint-Nazaire that could take passengers with bikes.
Any tips or experiences you can share would be really helpful—thanks in advance!
Have a great evening
I’ve gotten used to crossing Europe by bus to return by bike.
It was really convenient to take the bike without having to disassemble it.
But FlixBus no longer accepts bikes...
What alternatives do you know about?
Thanks.
Hi there,
I’m planning to ride the Dutch section of the EuroVelo 19, from Maastricht to Rotterdam.
Since it’s too complicated to bring my bike on the train, I’m looking to rent one locally.
I’d love any tips or bike rental shop recommendations—I’m struggling to find options even in Rotterdam.
The plan is to rent in Rotterdam, take the train to Maastricht with the bike, then cycle back to Rotterdam.
Thanks in advance for any advice or suggestions!
Nath
I’m planning to cycle from Morlaix to Brest (via Roscoff and the V45 coastal route). We’ll start riding on August 16th for 13 days (with stops for island visits, surfing, etc.). Is there a lot of traffic at this time of year? I’ve got two kids, 11 and 13, and we don’t like riding in the middle of cars (we’ve already done the Vélomaritime—Caen to Cherbourg—the Loire route from Orléans to Saumur, the Vélodyssée from Nantes to Royans, and the canals like the Nivernais and Bourgogne, where there were plenty of bike-only lanes, which isn’t the case on this route).
Thanks for your help if you’ve already done this route in late August!
Virginie
I’m planning to build a new touring bike.
I want to prioritize lightness.
That said, I’m tempted by a suspension fork that could offer some comfort on rougher roads.
The recent appearance of gravel suspension forks on the market might meet my needs—at least on paper.
I’m particularly considering the RockShox Rudy Ultimate XPLR fork.
Unlike MTB forks, its travel is short: either 30 mm or 40 mm.
It weighs 1400 g, which is 400/500 g more than a steel fork.
Any thoughts or real-world feedback on this?
I’m also wondering about the durability of magnesium (lower leg) for long-distance bike touring.
And what’s the impact of skipping the manufacturer-recommended maintenance every 50 and 200 hours? That’s bound to happen on a long trip unless you carry extra gear.
More generally, how reliable are these kinds of forks?
I’m making an exception and creating a separate post this time, since it’s all about France. In May, we spent a week in Provence, specifically in the Luberon, exploring the cycling routes *Autour du Luberon à Vélo*, the *Véloroute du Calavon* (part of EuroVelo 8), and the shorter *Les Ocres à Vélo* route. Together, they gave us an amazing journey through rolling hills, vineyards, lavender fields still green in spring, and some of the most stunning landscapes in southern France.
It was, of course, the perched villages that impressed us the most. We visited Gordes, Roussillon, Bonnieux, Lacoste, Lourmarin, Ménerbes, Oppède-le-Vieux, Cucuron, and Lauris. Many of them are among the most beautiful villages in Provence, and it’s hard not to agree with that reputation.
One interesting point is the route of EuroVelo 8 in this part of the region. The official path mainly follows the old railway line of the *Véloroute du Calavon*, which is very comfortable and safe. But in our opinion, cyclists traveling EuroVelo 8 around the Mediterranean would discover even more treasures if the route passed through villages like Bonnieux, Lacoste, or Oppède-le-Vieux.
We were also pleasantly surprised by how safe cycling felt. Most of the route takes small local roads, but traffic is light, drivers are respectful, and road design really takes cyclists into account. It’s one of those places where you can ride peacefully even without separated bike lanes.
Our full story:
Around Luberon by bicycle - the most beautiful villages of Provence
You can also find all our cycling travel stories on the forum:
Cycling Thread - Europe’s most beautiful bike routes
Hi there, we’re a group of 4 cyclists looking to get from Treviso in Italy to Munich with our 4 non-folding bikes. It seems complicated! Are there any solutions? Thanks so much.
hello fellow cycling enthusiasts
here’s a travel journal of the cycling tour through the Rhône-Alpes Auvergne region by Claudio
zouli
it was the plan
http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/auvergne-Ralpes/
the trip was completed
story being posted online soon
1100 km in 11 days
beautiful and varied regions
Hi there, we’re planning a Munich to Venice bike trip at the end of June 2026. Getting back from Venice to Toulouse by train with 4 bikes isn’t straightforward. What return options have others who’ve done this trip chosen? Any tips or great deals would be much appreciated. Thanks a bunch! !
Hi everyone,
Happy owner of a Pegasus Estremo bike with a Rohloff hub, which is giving me trouble with the SF11-NCX-FT-E-LITE 700C TS 300/0 fork (serial number TD01329060). It’s starting to show its age, and I’d like to repair it to extend the life of my beloved bike.
The suspension is gone, and there’s an oil leak from the seals.
Does anyone know how to repair it? Where can I find parts that are about fifteen years old? Or where to find an identical replacement fork? Just to clarify, the Magura HS11 brakes are mounted using Firm Tech, meaning they’re on pivots behind the fork, facing the frame.
Hi, I'd like to know if anyone has done this route recently or has reliable info.
Does the track exist, and most importantly, is there sand (for biking)?
Any info is welcome.
Cheers,
diego ambilobe: mangaoka, manondro, ramena
vohemar sambava: masondrono, tanambao
Hi there,
New to bike touring,
I’d love to start with a section of the Via Rhona to explore and share (route to be decided).
Looking forward to exchanging tips!
I’m landing in Madagascar with a buddy before the end of April 2026. We’re planning to bike around for about twenty days or so. We don’t have a specific goal other than exploring the country and meeting the locals.
Ideally, we’d prefer a loop route starting from Antananarivo with a good chunk of it along the coast. On the bike side, we’re used to riding 6 to 8 hours a day, depending on the needs, encounters, and mood 😉 Any feedback or tips from trips around this length?
A big thank you to Lazarou for all the info you share in this forum!
I'm passionate about Morocco, which I cycled through back in 2009.
Last year, my wife and I explored the High Atlas by tandem. Completely smitten, we're heading back in April (Anti Atlas) and May (High and Middle Atlas), still on our tandem.
Do you have any info on the track between Amezri and Ali Ait Nito? Are the river crossings in the Tessaout still there? It's not easy to navigate with a loaded tandem... especially if the river level is high due to this year's heavy snowmelt!
Thanks in advance for any tips you might have, and best wishes for health in this new year!
Claudio specializes in the route of the Savoie lakes
Here are his travels
Between Bornes, Chartreuse, the Savoie foothills, and Dauphiné
Five lakes: Léman, Annecy, Paladru, Aiguebelette, Bourget, not to mention a few ponds along the way
Plenty of accommodation options: camping, hotels, and more...
A lovely route not far from his place
Rural and quite peaceful
A road cycling route created by Serge B...
First of all... happy New Year! Wishing you great roads in 2017!
I’ve been traveling for a few years now with a high-quality mountain bike, but it’s equipped with hydraulic disc brakes. I live (pedal) with the constant worry of a breakdown (leak, air bubble, heat causing the fluid to...). My bike mechanic tells me it’s impossible to switch them out for V-brakes.
What do you all think? Am I taking a big risk continuing (alone) with these brakes? Thanks in advance for your great tips!
First post here to share a quick recap of our west-to-east bike trip along Algeria’s coast in January 2025.
It was just the two of us—my partner and I—with French passports and not a word of Arabic. No friends or welcoming hosts in the country.
Under those conditions, we’d strongly advise against going.
Our original plan was to follow the coast from Algiers to Tunis. We ended up cycling from Algiers to Béjaia, then took the train from Béjaia to Annaba (with a stop in Constantine), and finally biked to the border.
We were tailed by police the whole way—whether on our bikes, on the train, or even on foot while exploring towns. On top of that, we couldn’t wild camp and were limited to the few state-approved hotels that accept foreigners. Under those circumstances, connecting with locals was especially tough.
With such an omnipresent and intrusive police presence, we’d definitely recommend against this destination for bike touring. A really sad situation that completely cuts you off from the local population...
We’d been warned, we went to check it out, and we weren’t disappointed!
Hi there,
I’m planning the route to cycle from Lille to Nordkapp with my partner.
Duration: 3 months, from May 1st to July 31st, 2026.
In the attached details below, I need to add some "non-riding" days (rest days, basically).
So I’m looking to "shorten" the trip by taking ferries or trains for some stretches. Which areas could I skip?
Thanks in advance for your great tips.
Have a good evening.
https://www.komoot.com/fr-fr/collection/4023980/-lille-cap-nord-1er-mai-au-31-juillet-2026?ref=collection
I’m planning to bike back from Poland this summer. Does anyone know a way to ship it there without having to take it apart? Otherwise, it’s a real hassle to fine-tune all the settings before departure!
Thanks in advance.
Hi, has anyone recently bought Primus or Butagaz gas, possibly puncture-style, in Dubrovnik or the surrounding area? Same question for Albania... thanks. aichatou
Just a few words about the loop I did by bike in Yunnan.
Entry and exit
I entered China through the Sino-Vietnamese border crossing at Lào Cai / Hekou under the 30-day visa exemption currently available to French nationals and others.
The process was simple and quick. A Chinese police officer even helped me complete my electronic pre-registration at a computer kiosk. I wasn’t aware this formality was required—it’s similar to Thailand’s TM6.
No issues with the bike.
I left the country via the Sino-Laotian border crossing at Mohan / Boten.
The atmosphere was a bit chaotic there, but again, no problems with the bike.
The timing
I visited Yunnan in February 2026.
Weather-wise, at higher altitudes (between 1,500 and 2,000 meters), it was around ten degrees at night and in the mornings, and around twenty degrees at the hottest part of the day.
I had two days of rain, so I took the bus to keep moving. Otherwise, clear blue skies.
Culturally, Chinese New Year fell on February 17th (and the 15 days following), right in the middle of my trip. Because of this, my take on the traffic might be off.
Accommodation and food
I always found a hotel to stay in for prices ranging from 8 to 15 €. Except in Kunming (the capital), where many hotels were fully booked (Chinese New Year). I ended up at a 100 € hotel with great value for money.
A bowl of noodles costs about 1.5 € on average.
Onboard electronics
Since my smartphone doesn’t support eSIMs, I subscribed to a China plan with my carrier. Otherwise, for much cheaper, Alipay offers eSIMs for foreigners that allow access to services usually blocked for Chinese users (WhatsApp, Facebook, etc.).
An internet connection is essential for paying with Alipay or WeChat, as this payment method is widespread.
I only managed to use Alipay.
Either way, always carry cash because sometimes there’s no signal, or the merchant only accepts WeChat.
Also, it’s best to bring a power adapter when you arrive rather than struggling to find one.
Traffic and roads
The Chinese aren’t reckless drivers. They follow traffic rules and watch out for cyclists. This is slightly less true in Xishuangbanna (the region bordering Myanmar and Laos).
In urban areas, there are almost always wide bike lanes, separated from other roads, where bikes, electric mini-scooters, and scooters share the space pretty harmoniously.
The roads are in great condition, and traffic is generally manageable—even light—except for one stretch (Eshan -> Yangwu).
Most traffic is absorbed by expressways, China’s equivalent of highways: toll roads that are off-limits to slow vehicles.
You’re never far from these expressways; sometimes you even ride alongside them, which can be noisy at times.
The climbs are usually reasonable, around 5% to 6%. From what I remember, the steepest section was between Menglun and Mengla, with gradients of 8% to 10%, sometimes more.
Riding at these altitudes—though modest—took a bit of getting used to.
The route
I didn’t plan anything in advance. My only goal was to reach Kunming. I don’t know why, but just hearing the name of that city, like Yunnan, always felt dreamy to me.