Cela fait plus de 3 mois que nous sommes rentrés d'un merveilleux voyage en Namibie, et je me lance aujourd'hui dans le récit de notre première expérience africaine.
Les carnets d'un voyage en camping-car en Namibie ne sont pas très nombreux, donc j'espère que celui-ci sera utile à de futurs voyageurs.
Nous sommes partis à 4 : 2 adultes + 2 enfants de 10 et 12 ans.ItinéraireVoici l'itinéraire que nous avons suivi durant notre voyage en Namibie en Juillet 2015 :
Jour 1 : Samedi 4 juillet – Toulouse → Paris → Johannesburg
Jour 2 : Dimanche 5 juillet – Johannesburg → Windhoek
Jour 3 : Lundi 6 juillet - Windhoek → Mariental (351 km)
Jour 4 : Mardi 7 juillet – Mariental → Keetmanshoop (300km)
Jour 5 : Mercredi 8 juillet – Keetmanshoop → Aus(293km)
Jour 6 : Jeudi 9 juillet – Aus
Jour 7 : Vendredi 10 juillet – Aus → Sesriem (356km)
Jour 8 : Samedi 11 juillet – Sesriem (123km)
Jour 9 : Dimanche 12 juillet – Sesriem → Rostock Ritz Desert Lodge (285km)
Jour 10 : Lundi 13 juillet – Rostock Ritz Desert Lodge → Swapkopmund(275km)
Jour 11 : Mardi 14 juillet – Swakopmund / Walvis Bay (108km)
Jour 12 : Mercredi 15 juillet – Swakopmund → Spitzkoppe (155km)
Jour 13 : Jeudi 16 Juillet – Spitzkoppe → Brandberg (147km)
Jour 14 : Vendredi 17 juillet – Brandberg → Twyfelfontein (184km)
Jour 15 : Samedi 18 juillet – Twyfelfontein → Kamanjab (228km)
Jour 16 : Dimanche 19 juillet – Kamanjab → Etosha (Olifantrus) (174km)
Jour 17 : Lundi 20 juillet – Etosha : Olifantrus → Okaukuejo (135km)
Jour 18 : Mardi 21 juillet – Etosha : Okaukuejo → Halali (114km)
Jour 19 : Mercredi 22 juillet –Etosha : Halali → Namutoni (129km)
Jour 20 : Jeudi 23 Juillet – Etosha (Namutoni) → Otjiwarango( 420km)
Jour 21 : Vendredi 24 juillet –Otjiwarongo → Windhoek(251km)
Jour 22 : Samedi 25 juillet – Windhoek → Johannesburg → Paris
Jour 23 : Dimanche 26 juillet – Paris → Toulouse
Soit 20 nuits sur place : 18 en camping-car, et 2 en lodge (1ère et dernière nuit).
Comme à chaque voyage, il a fallu faire des choix. J'ai éliminé le Fish River Canyon qui était initialement prévu (long détour pour finalement pas grand chose : on ne peut pas descendre dans le canyon pour une randonnée à la journée, il y a uniquement quelques points de vue où normalement on ne peut pas accéder en camping-car car desservis par une route D...même si ce point n'était pas rédhibitoire).
J'aurai aimé monter jusqu'aux Epupa Falls, mais il aurait fallu quelques jours supplémentaires pour traverser le Kaokoland et le Damaraland qui aurait mérité qu'on y passe une nuit (c'est là, vers Palmwag qu'on a vu nos premières girafes!).
De même la bande de Caprivi, les chutes Victoria m'attiraient mais cela n'était pas compatible avec une visite du sud de la Namibie...sinon il aurait fallu partir plus d'un mois!
Finalement le nord de la Namibie pourrait faire l'objet d'un futur voyage couplé avec le Botswana 😉 !
Le parcours a été définitivement figé à 80% dès les premières réservations de camping dans les parcs nationaux : Etosha, Namib Naukluft Park(Sossusvleï). Il a fallu s'adapter aux disponibilités, car les campings dans ces 2 parcs étaient déjà complets à certaines dates en Février !
Les camping ont donc tous été réservés avant notre départ, à l'exception de 2 nuits :
- le 7 juillet, car il n'était pas possible de réserver à l'avance au Quiver Tree Forest camp (vers Keetmanshoop).
- le 15 juillet : pour nous permettre d'aller ou non à Cape Cross Seals Reserve. Finalement, on décidera de ne pas y aller, et donc de passer une seconde nuit à Swakopmund.
Sur place, nous avons suivi l'itinéraire prévu avant notre départ. Nous avons cependant passé une seconde nuit à Aus, alors que j'avais prévu de faire une étape à Betta pour couper le long trajet vers Sesriem.
Au total : 4055 km parcourus
Véhicule : camping-carLorsque la destination de cette année a été choisie, j'avais pensé à 2 options pour l'hébergement et le véhicule :
- le 4x4 avec tentes sur le toit : → Avantages : on peut aller partout, et certainement plus vite. On peut éventuellement dormir quelques nuits en lodge (mais en dehors des parcs sinon c'est hors de prix!)
→ Inconvénients : il faut déplier les tentes tous les soirs, et les replier tous les matins, on risque d'avoir froid car ce sera l'hiver en Namibie et les températures minimales peuvent être très basses!
- le camping-car :
→ Avantages : il fera moins froid qu'en tente, on pourra manger à l'intérieur (très appréciable surtout le matin), les filles auront plus d'espace lors des trajets (une table en particulier). Les toilettes seront à disposition en permanence (très utile à Etosha où on ne peut pas sortir du véhicule, et les toilettes y sont très rares). Dans Etosha, on observera plus facilement les animaux (on peut se déplacer dans le véhicule, manger, observer à l'avant, à l'arrière, sur les côtés)
→ Inconvénients : il faut adapter le parcours, on ne pourra pas aller n'importe où, et on devra emprunter le moins possible de routes D (interdites par le loueur avec ce type de véhicule)
Madame ayant mis son veto sur les tentes sur le toit, on a choisi le camping-car. Nous avons fait le bon choix, car c'était parfaitement adapté à ce voyage en famille.
Le véhicule, loué directement chez bobocampers était en excellent état, et super propre (d'ailleurs quand on a dû le nettoyer au retour, on s'est demandé comment avaient-ils fait pour qu'il soit si propre!). C'est peut-être même un peu exagéré de lustrer les pare-chocs, et les flans de pneus...pour en fin de compte le salir avec la poussière de la piste d'accès à l'agence de location? Les pneus étaient quasi neufs, et je n'ai pas eu de crevaison! ("Good driver !" d'après Bobocampers)
On aurait par contre bien aimé que la climatisation fonctionne, et apprécié le chauffage au petit matin qui lui aussi était HS!
Petite incompréhension également au sujet du barbecue à gaz, qui fonctionnait non pas avec une bouteille spécifique (que j'ai cherchée sans jamais la trouver), mais avec la bouteille disponible dans la cabine et utilisée pour la table de cuisson et le frigo.
Un seul feu fonctionnait sur la plaque de cuisson, le deuxième de temps en temps.
On n'a pas utilisé la douche, car celle des campings était bien mieux, et les toilettes uniquement quand on ne pouvait pas faire autrement. Car cela n'a rien à voir avec les camping-car américains : le réservoir d'eau contient seulement 60 l (à remplir avec une jerrycan), les eaux usées ne sont pas stockées et partent directement sous le véhicule, les rejets des toilettes sont stockés dans une cassette que j'ai vidé tous les 2-3 jours.Conduite/GPS- Etat des routes :
Les routes sont, à l'exception des B (goudronnées), en terre avec pas mal de cailloux. Leur état est variable, on a eu des portions où on pouvait rouler à 100 km/h, mais d'autres où on ne pouvait pas dépasser les 30 km/h. En général, on roule entre 50 et 80 km/h.
Il y a beaucoup de vibrations sur les gravel road, que ce soit sur les C ou les D à cause de la "tôle ondulée", il est souvent préférable de rouler à 70-80km/h pour moins sentir les imperfections de la route. Par moments, je devais m'arrêter car j'avais mal au bras à force de tenir le volant. Dans le camping-car, tout bouge, j'ai malgré tout préservé la vaisselle (juste un verre cassé) ! Par contre, le mobilier a beaucoup souffert, la climatisation/chauffage tenait en appui sur un meuble, tous les jours on récupérait des vis ...
A l'extérieur, c'est le pare-choc avant qui a tenté de se faire la malle, heureusement, j'avais prévu la corde pour l'attacher. Un namibien lors d'un contrôle vétérinaire m'a aidé à le fixer et enlever un carter de protection sous le moteur.
- Deuxième problème : la poussière. Elle rentre partout. Le 1er jour où nous avons roulé sur gravel
road, on s'est dit qu'on pouvait ouvrir les fenêtres (il faisait chaud, et la clim était HS) sauf quand on croisait les rares véhicules...très mauvaise idée!
La poussière entre par les coffres de rangement situés sous la cabine du camping-car. On a passé 2 heures à nettoyer le camping-car et la vaisselle ce soir là à Sesriem. Ensuite, en roulant fenêtres fermées c'était "moins pire", il fallait quand même rincer la vaisselle avant utilisation.
- GPS :
Il n'y a pas beaucoup de routes en Namibie, il est donc difficile de se perdre. Ne possédant pas de GPS, il ne m'a pas semblé indispensable d'investir pour installer la carte Track4Africa (Garmin uniquement). J'ai finalement cherché une application GPS gratuite sans connexion (sans data) pour smartphone. Mon choix s'est porté sur OsmAnd, j'ai même acheté pour 6€ la version "+" pour ne pas être limité à 10 chargements de cartes, tellement j'en suis satisfait.
Très fiable pour les temps de parcours, et très utile pour trouver un supermarché ou une poste (très rare en Namibie) pour envoyer les cartes postales. Je l'ai même utilisé en randonnée à Aus ou Sossusvlei car les chemins étaient tracés sur la carte! Bon ça ne nous a pas empêché de rater un embranchement lors de notre rando à Aus et de se rallonger d'1 ou 2 km :-)).CampingComme précisé dans la partie itinéraire ils ont en grande partie été réservés avant notre départ. Ils ont tous été super bien : très spacieux, hyper propres, tous avec un point d'eau, un coin pour faire du feu ou un braïï c'est-à-dire un barbecue (il a fallu qu'on achète une grille car elle n'était pas toujours présente). Souvent il y avait une douche privative avec eau chaude (solaire ou avec donkey, c'est-à-dire qu'une réserve d'eau est chauffée par un feu de bois), des toilettes et même parfois un évier. La douche était souvent "ouverte" avec un panorama magnifique. Les campings les moins agréables étaient ceux d'Olifantrus et Halali dans Etosha, où on est les uns sur les autres, et c'est assez bruyant et pas très propre.Nourriture / Supermarchés / Restaurants - Dans les villes, il y a souvent un supermarché principalement des Spar. On trouve tout ce dont on a besoin...même du nutella pour le petit dej des filles.
On n'a pas eu de problème pour se ravitailler sur la 1ère partie du parcours (jusqu'à Swakopmund). Ensuite, ça s'est compliqué, car on a évité les villes. On est arrivé à Kamanjab un samedi après 17h, donc tout était fermé, heureusement le dimanche il y avait une petite épicerie ouverte ou finalement on a acheté de la viande congelée sous vide (très bonne et pas chère!) et de l'eau, ce qui nous a permis de tenir jusqu'à Okaukuejo. On avait également une réserve de pâtes qui nous a bien dépanné!
Sinon, à part des chips, c'était difficile de trouver à manger en dehors des "villes".
- Quasiment tous les soirs on a fait griller de la viande sur le braïï. La viande est excellente, notre préférée a été le kudu, mais l'oryx est très bon également.
- Peu de lodge font des "braïï pack". On s'est régalé à Aus avec un pack comprenant viande + salade + dessert!
- Par contre, bizarrement, en bord de mer, on n'a pas trouvé d'endroit où acheter du poisson...
- Les resto ne sont vraiment pas chers, y compris dans Etosha, où certes le buffet était pas très varié mais très bon. Au lodge où nous avons passé la 1ère et dernière nuit, c'était vraiment cadeau : 35€ à 4 avec apéritif et vin!
Le plus cher (car il n'y avait pas de tarif enfant) était le Sossusvlei Lodge à Sesriem (90€ à 4 avec apéritif), mais avec un cadre de fou, et un buffet où je me suis explosé le ventre!EauOn a bu uniquement de l'eau minérale en bouteille. L'eau du robinet n'est pas dangereuse, mais au camping on nous a souvent conseillé de ne pas la boire.On a acheté des bouteilles au 1er supermarché à Windhoek , puis des bidons de 5l. Bien sûr, on n'a pas fait attention, on a acheté quelques bouteilles d'eau pétillante qui finalement passait très bien avec un sirop d'orange.
Sparkling=eau pétillante (inscription en rouge)
Still=eau plate (inscription en vert)CarburantLa consommation moyenne du camping-car est de 10-11l de gasoil au 100km. Le prix du litre de gasoil est d'environ 0,8€.
Je n'ai jamais roulé avec moins de la 1/2 du réservoir, sauf avant d'arriver à Otjiwarongo où je suis arrivé sur réserve...mais c'était calculé :-)Il peut y avoir 150-200km entre 2 stations service. On peut payer en CB dans la plupart des villes et à Etosha, même s'ils préfèrent en espèce.Divers- Climat / Température :Il a fait chaud. Je craignais le froid dans le sud, et finalement ce n'est pas là qu'on a eu les températures les plus basses.
Journée : en général, il a fait entre 22 et 28°c la journée. Le plus chaud : 32°c à Sesriem et Etosha. Le plus froid : 16°c vers Walvis Bay.
Nuit : souvent entre 6 et 11°c, quelquefois moins. Le plus froid : vers Otjiwarongo , -3°c (0°c dans le camping-car!) à 1600m d'altitude.
-Pourboires : entre 2 et 7$ au supermarché à la personne qui met les courses dans les sacs, au pompiste, à la personne qui surveille la voiture (même s'il te vend les espèces de noix avec ton prénom et qui te coûtent un bras!), à la serveuse du resto (10% de l'addition), et au chauffeur de bobocamper (20$)
Ah, un carnet Namibien en famille en camping-car...Alors finalement as-tu pris la D707 en CC ? je ne sais pas en regardant ton itinéraire si oui ou non ?
Franchement Bobocamper n'entretient pas convenablement, un chauffage HS ainsi que clim...ils abusent, enfin tu as eu des pneus en bon état c'est déjà ça (nous avons eu des pneus lisses usés jusqu'à la corde sur notre remorque en oct 2015 avec Bushlore !)
Nous avions trouvé leur camping car pas bien pensé au niveau rangement, malheureusement les loueurs ne se cassent pas trop la tête.
Raf
Carnets : Namibie en camping car, l'Est de l'Afrique du Sud, du KTP au Kaokoland en 4x4, la Norvège en hiver 2x, l'Ecosse en hiver, la Namibie avec remorque, l'Islande en camping car en juin, le tout avec 4 enfants, dans le profil https://voyageforum.com/v.f?membre=Caperam;
Merci pour ton retour intéressant. Tu parles des deux campings à Etosha, moins agréables que les autres et tu cites notamment Halali et Olifantrus. Est-ce pas plutôt Halali et Okaukuejo? Olifantrus est tout petit et nouveau, tandis que les deux autres ont une réputation d'être bruyant, d'avoir les douches, etc., pas très propres...
Oh, cette poussière dans le camping-car, je ne pensais pas que c'était à ce point.😕 J'espère que dans la cabine du 4x4 ce n'est pas comme ça.
Pour le GPS, tu sembles être content, est-ce qu'il est assez performant, peut-on trouver toutes les pistes C et D avec ce GPS? Nous avions utilisé une GPS de ce genre pour les US lors de nos deux derniers voyages et étions très content. Par contre, je n'ai pas très bien compris, tu dis qu'avec le supplément, tu as pu charger plus de cartes. Pourquoi charger des cartes? Je ne comprends pas très bien.
Il me semble que tu as fait Hidden Vlei à Sesriem. Peux-tu m'en dire plus? Trouve-t-on facilement le chemin depuis le parking? Combien de temps a pris cette balade? Comment as-tu organisé tes journées à Sesriem? Visites?
Bonjour Raphael,
Ton carnet m'avait bien aidé lors de ma préparation!
Non, nous n'avons pas pris la D707, c'était notre 1ère journée sur des gravel road, et vu l'état des piste C, je n'ai même pas osé proposer ecette option à toute la famille🤪.
Pour Bobocamper, tu verras dans la suite de mon carnet qu'on en est satisfait malgré quelques soucis mineurs. Au départ, je n'ai pas pensé à vérifier la clim, et pour le chauffage on m'a fait une démonstration pour me monter que la soufflerie fonctionnait ...mais sans attendre l'air chaud. C'est vrai qu'au niveau rangement, heureusement qu'on avait laissé nos valises vides chez le loueur, et qu'on a utilisé la douche pour stocker le linge sale, les chaussures..., car cela ne vaut pas les camping-car américains.
Olifantrus est tout neuf mais très petit, et on est franchement les uns sur les autres, c'est dommage, même à Okaukuejo les emplacements sont plus grands et mieux agencés. Le plus agréable pour nous a été Namutoni.
Pour le gps, pas de problème pour les routes C, D et chemein de rando. C'est une application, et tu charges sur la carte SD de ton smartphone les cartes des pays ou régions qui t'intéressent.
Voilà un carnet que je vais lire avec grande attention car depuis 2 mois mon conjoint ne cesse de me parler de ce pays.
Comme moi aussi j'ai mis un véto sur le 4 X4 avec tente sur le toit et que nous avons déjà plusieurs expériences en camping car, votre récit m'intéresse.
Jour1 : Toulouse/Johannesburg - Samedi 4 Juillet 2015
On prend l’avion en début de soirée, donc le départ de la maison est moins stressant que quand on part tôt le matin.Au niveau de la porte d'embarquement à Paris CDG, on doit effectuer des contrôles avant d’embarquer pour vérifier que nous possédons bien les documents pour les enfants pour entrer en Afrique du Sud. Surprenant : il n’y a pas de traitement différent pour les passagers, comme nous, en transit en Afrique du Sud ? Normalement, on n’était pas concerné par les nouvelles mesures mises en place en juin pour les mineurs entrant dans le pays. J’avais quand même prévu pour les filles : une copie intégrale du certificat de naissance, un extrait de naissance plurilingue (le tout obtenu via internet sur le site de la mairie de Toulouse). C’est passé : pas besoin de la traduction en anglais du certificat de naissance par un traducteur assermenté (dont le tarif m’avait un peu énervé : 60€ !)
On est prioritaire pour embarquer car nous voyageons en famille. On accède directement à l’étage de l’A380 depuis la porte d’embarquement, on est presque au fond de l’avion…au rang 92.
On décolle avec 1/2h de retard car il faut décharger les bagages d’un passager manquant.Les filles s'endorment sans trop de problème. L’A380 n’est pas plus confortable que les autres avions, pire il ne faut pas être trop grand pour utiliser les toilettes à l'étage!
Jour2 : Johannesburg/Windhoek - Dimanche 5 Juillet 2015
Arrivés à Johannesburg, on fait l’enregistrement pour notre dernier vol au comptoir British Airways Il faut prendre un bus pour arriver au pied de l’avion. On décolle avec un peu de retard, car il faut attendre des passagers. Un vrai repas nous est servi dans l’avion, il faut également penser à retarder les montres d’une heure.
Nous arrivons à Windhoek avec un peu de retard . L'aéroport est petitt pour un aéroport international ! On descend de l’avion sur la piste pour accéder à l’aérogare. Le passage de la douane se passe sans problème, même si le personnel n’est pas très amical. David de Bobocamper nous attend, on retire quelques $ et en route pour l’hôtel.
Sur la route on voit des babouins sur une clôture, le paysage est très aride.
Le lodge (TransKalahari Inn) situé à mi-chemin entre l'aéroport et Windhoek, est agréable, il y a très peu de monde, le camping est vide. La piscine du lodge est verte, dommage car il fait bon au soleil. On profite du wifi pour donner de nos nouvelles en France.
Pas de doute, on est dans le désert :
Les filles se sont fait de nouveaux copains : les chats du lodge.
On assiste à notre 1er coucher de soleil en Namibie...il se couche vraiment très tôt!
Le resto est très bon, en particulier la viande (Oryx, Kudu, Eland si je me souviens bien). Les filles préfèrent prendre un burger/frites, elles ne sont pas encore prêtes pour la viande locale…pour l’instant car elles vont devenir fan. La bière namibienne est un peu fade par contre.
On est les seuls clients ! L’accueil n’est pas très chaleureux, la serveuse n’est pas très coopérative pour nous expliquer les différents niveaux de cuisson de la viande (ce n’est pas exactement les mêmes termes qu’en Angleterre j’ai l’impression).
Bon, voici les différents niveaux :
1- Rare = Bleu
2- Medium rare = saignant
3- Medium = A point
4- Medium well = cuit
5- Well done = bien cuit
Coucher vers 20h, demain j’ai rendez-vous à 7h30 pour la prise en charge du camping-car. Il ne fait pas très chaud dans le lodge, ça nous change des nuits caniculaires! C'est rigolo, on est à 2000m d'altitude et il n'y a aucun chauffage dans notre chambre familiale, il y a cependant des couvertures.
Réveil vers 7h, je pars à l’accueil de Bobocamper, situé juste en face du lodge, pour 7h30, les filles dorment encore. Surprise : 2 familles françaises (1 de la réunion, qui est là pour 2 semaines, 1 avec des enfants de 2 et 4 ans pour 1 mois en Namibie + 1 mois en Afrique du Sud…quelle chance !!))
La prise en charge du camping-car est un peu longue (1h30). On part prendre le petit déj au lodge, on a un peu de mal à comprendre la cuisson des œufs ...décidément 😊 !
Le temps de vider nos valises et de les laisser vides (car il n’y a pas de place dans le camping-car pour les stocker), il est déjà 11h.
On fait les courses au Maerua super spar de Windhoek, et j’en profite pour acheter également du vin sud africain.
En route pour Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch. La route B1 (goudronnée) est monotone car rectiligne, on roule entre 90 et 115km, il fait 25-26°c. On verra quelques singes, chèvres, moutons, vaches, autruches, un suricate, des chevaux et des ânes.
Les 25 derniers km se font sur route D, pas très bonne pas endroits (enfin, on verra bien pire quelques jours plus tard), mais on roule entre 50 et 70km. On voit nos premiers springboks.
On arrive au lodge vers 16h45, le temps de larguer le camping-car à l’accueil, on monte sur une dune pour assister au coucher de soleil. C’était juste, car une petite erreur nous a fait rater la C20 avant Mariental (+20 km). En plus, petite frayeur, j’ai pris la route en roulant à droite !!
Accueil sympa, ça change, avec un petit verre de jus de fruits. Je me fais expliquer plusieurs fois la direction pour aller au camping.
Les emplacements de camping sont espacés, c’est très beau. On a un petit bâtiment avec douche (chauffe-eau au gaz), WC et lavabos. A l’extérieur, il y a un évier.
Après un rapide repas, on observe le magnifique ciel étoilé, que je tente désespérément de prendre en photo…j’aurai dû m’entrainer avant de partir à la mise au point manuelle (car l’autofocus dans la nuit ça ne marche pas !)
Coucher vers 21h. Le frigo fait pas mal de bruit, et le sommier (enfin, la table !) grince, donc on a du mal à trouver le sommeil...
Distance parcourue : 351km (contre 315km prévus)
Jour 4 : Mariental (Kalahari) / Keetmanshoop (Quiver Tree Forest) - Mardi 7 Juillet 2015
Réveil vers 7h, il fait frais dans le camping-car, on a mis une couverture pendant la nuit.
La douche est froide malgré le chauffe-eau !
On déjeune dehors, c’est très joli.
On part ensuite faire une petite balade dans les dunes avoisinantes. On voit des springboks, et un nid de républicains.
Après un petit tour à la réception pour rendre les clés, et profiter du wifi, il est déjà 11h quand on se met en route.
Il y a pas mal de springboks sur la piste qui rejoint la route D. Il faut parcourir 30km de gravel road pour retrouver la C20 goudronnée. On a vu des oryx et un grand kudu de loin, et quelques autruches.
On croise une niveleuse qui refait la route.
A Mariental on s’arrête au Spar pour acheter le charbon de bois qui nous manquait pour le braii, car le barbecue à gaz n’a pas de cartouche (on l’apprendra au retour, mais il fallait utiliser la bouteille de gaz de la cabine)…On en profite pour faire le plein de gasoil. Petit arrêt picnic en bord de route : agréable malgré le vent. Il fait toujours 25-26°c.
La B1 est moins large qu’hier, il faut que je patiente un long moment derrière un camion à 80-90 km/h car je ne me le sens pas de le doubler. Dès qu’il s’arrête enfin, on peut tracer à 110-120km/h, mais attention aux policiers et leur radar bien cachés à l’ombre !
Bien entendu, on rate la route pour Quiver Tree Forest (bon ce coup-ci ça nous coûtera un ½ tour 200m plus loin). Les 13 derniers km se font sur une piste très large et roulante.
On arrive au camping vers 16h, et on voit une cheetah (guépard) dans l’enclos en train de manger.
Le temps de payer l’entrée + camping, direction la Quiver Tree Forest juste à côté de l’emplacement qu’on choisit.
C'est très joli au soleil couchant, les kokerbooms (Aloe Dichotoma) c'est-à-dire les arbres carquois, que les bushmen utilisaient pour faire des carquois pour leurs flèches. On verra pas mal de Damans des rochers.
Ce soir braii : brochettes d’oryx. Excellent avec le vin rouge sud-africain. Ce soir, on a l’électricité, heureusement car la batterie de la cabine ne se charge pas en roulant…embêtant.
Le camping n'est pas très beau, il ressemble à un parking, mais la forêt de kokerbooms juste à côté de notre emplacement rend l'endroit très sympathique.
Les filles vont au dodo à 20h, nous vers 21h30.
Distance parcourue : 300km (contre 290km prévus dans le roadbook)
Superbe la photo du Kokerboom. Grosses journées de route, plus que tu avais prévu? En tout cas merci pour ton retour de voyage.🙂
Merci.
Pas mal de route effectivement sur les premiers jours, mais sur route goudronnée c'était jouable. Ça m'a permis de me familiariser avec la conduite à gauche😉 .
on doit effectuer des contrôles avant d’embarquer pour vérifier que nous possédons bien les documents pour les enfants pour entrer en Afrique du Sud. Surprenant : il n’y a pas de traitement différent pour les passagers, comme nous, en transit en Afrique du Sud ? Normalement, on n’était pas concerné par les nouvelles mesures mises en place en juin pour les mineurs entrant dans le pays.
Bonjour
Je suis surprise de lire tes lignes car je n'ai jamais lu de tolérance particulière pour les personnes en transit. Tous les vols pour l'Afrique du Sud sont concernés.
Et concernant la traduction assermentée de l'acte intégral, elle est bien obligatoire quand les enfants sont nés dans une commune qui ne propose pas d'acte de naissance multilingue. (et au départ, quand la loi n'était pas encore passée, en 2014 je pense, il fallait expressément un acte intégral... et le multilingue n'est qu'un extrait. Ils ont assoupli, tant mieux. 🙂 ). En tout cas, vous l'avez échappé belle on dirait...
Anne-Marie
Carnets : Namibie en camping car, l'Est de l'Afrique du Sud, du KTP au Kaokoland en 4x4, la Norvège en hiver 2x, l'Ecosse en hiver, la Namibie avec remorque, l'Islande en camping car en juin, le tout avec 4 enfants, dans le profil https://voyageforum.com/v.f?membre=Caperam;
on doit effectuer des contrôles avant d’embarquer pour vérifier que nous possédons bien les documents pour les enfants pour entrer en Afrique du Sud. Surprenant : il n’y a pas de traitement différent pour les passagers, comme nous, en transit en Afrique du Sud ? Normalement, on n’était pas concerné par les nouvelles mesures mises en place en juin pour les mineurs entrant dans le pays.
Bonjour
Je suis surprise de lire tes lignes car je n'ai jamais lu de tolérance particulière pour les personnes en transit. Tous les vols pour l'Afrique du Sud sont concernés.
Et concernant la traduction assermentée de l'acte intégral, elle est bien obligatoire quand les enfants sont nés dans une commune qui ne propose pas d'acte de naissance multilingue. (et au départ, quand la loi n'était pas encore passée, en 2014 je pense, il fallait expressément un acte intégral... et le multilingue n'est qu'un extrait. Ils ont assoupli, tant mieux. 🙂 ). En tout cas, vous l'avez échappé belle on dirait...
Anne-Marie
Bonjour Anne-Marie,
On ne l'a pas vraiment échappé belle car j'avais lu sur le site de l'ambassade que les extraits multilingues convenaient. Les voyageurs en transit semblaient ne pas être concernés d'après plusieurs intervenants sur VF (voir le topic suivant auquel tu avais participé :http://voyageforum.com/v.f?do=post_view_flat;post=6885041;page=2;search_string=extrait%20naissance%20afrique%20du%20sud;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;mh=20;).
Mais en effet, en transit ou pas, au débarquement tout le monde franchit la douane😉.
C'est seulement maintenant que je découvre ton carnet et j'embarque avec grand plaisir malgré la poussière (impressionnant quand même !)
J'admire ta patience à mettre toutes ces informations pratiques ! Bravo nul doute que toutes ces précisions seront très utiles aux futurs voyageurs.
Remplir le réservoir d'eau au jerrican, ça doit être longuet 🤪!
Par contre côté conso, pas mal, rien à voir avec les 20/25l des CC américains...
Sinon déjà de très belles lumières, hum, vivement la suite ...
A+
Laure
Jour 5 : Keetmanshoop (Quiver Tree Forest) / Aus - Mercredi 8 Juillet 2015
Vers 9h, on lève le camp pour Giant’s playground, situé à 5km du camping. On est tout seul, le tour nous prend 30-40 min. Très joli, et l’étendue de cet empilement de cailloux est impressionnante.
Peu avant 10h, on prend la route en direction de Keetmanshoop. J’appelle Bobocampers pour signaler le problème de chargement de batterie, car celle de la cabine est presque vide, et ce soir il n’y aura pas d’électricité au camping. Le technicien me rappelle et après discussion me dit d’aller au garage de Aus.
La route goudronnée B4 est toute droite, mais les paysages assez variés. On fait un arrêt picnic peu avant Goageb. Il fait chaud : 28°c.
On arrive à Aus vers 14h30. Le garage n’est pas très difficile à trouver dans ce petit village. Le garagiste très sympa s’empresse de trouver la panne : apparemment il y avait un mauvais contact au niveau d’un répartiteur en sortie d’alternateur. La note est légère : 100$N (7€ !), qu’on se fera rembourser lorsqu'on rendra le camping-car. Il est temps également de faire le plein de gasoil.
Nous repartons pour le Garub pan en bordure du Namib-Naukluft National Park. Peu avant d’atteindre le pan, on commence à voir quelques chevaux et un oryx, les autruches par contre sont très farouches, et donc pas facile à photographier. Les filles aperçoivent une autre "bête" (il s'agissait certainement d'un chacal).
Les paysages sont très beaux, il y a finalement moins de chevaux sauvages au plan d’eau qu’en bord de route. La route d’accès au pan est courte mais sur la fin les cailloux pointus semblent dangereux pour nos pneus.
On repart vers Klein Aus Vista (Desert Horse campsite).
A l’accueil on hésite à aller au resto car il y a un menu unique à 250$N. On décide finalement d’emporter un braii pack : un steak pour les filles et 2 steacks d'oryx. Pendant la préparation de nos packs, les filles profitent du wifi. L’employée du lodge nous propose un emplacement pour une seconde nuit comme je l’avais demandé lors de la réservation, mais à l’époque tout était déjà complet ! Après hésitation (car j’avais réservé à Betta pour la nuit suivante, mais pas payé) je décide d’accepter sa proposition.
On aura donc le camp n°5 pour 2 nuits. On prend le permis pour pouvoir randonner dans le parc : ce détail m’avait échappé…on paiera 80$N pour 2 adultes. Le camping est super ! On se régale avec la viande…enfin surtout les filles qui adorent finalement l'oryx, certainement grâce aux épices. On ne fait pas tout cuire car les portions sont généreuses. La viande est accompagnée de pommes de terre, de 2 sandwichs tomate/oignon, et d’une salade qu’on entamera à peine…ce sera notre repas de demain midi. Il y a même des parts de gâteau en dessert !
Distance parcourue : 293km (contre 230km prévus dans le roadbook)
Lever à 6h30. Aujourd’hui, pas de routeau programme.
On part faire une rando ce matin. Comme on a le temps, on se lance sur le fléchage jaune pour faire le Schutztruppe Trail(10,4km, environ 3h). On monte quelques minutes, et on aperçoit nos premiers kudu (femelles).
On les revoit plus loin, et ensuite on surprend un mâle (pas le temps de dégainer l’appareil photo). Alors que la plus jeune de nos filles est motivée par la présence d'animaux, l’aînée râle (depuis le réveil !). En peu de temps, on consomme la moitié de nos réserves d’eau. Ce n’est pas le dénivelé qui est dur, mais la chaleur.
On attaque la descente, la vue se dégage, le panorama est très beau. On marche sur une piste, mais on rate sans s’en rendre compte le sentier qui doit nous ramener au camping (malgré le GPS où figure clairement le sentier 🤪!!), ce qui va nous rallonger. On voit des autruches, des oryx et des chevaux.
Il fait chaud, on n’a presque plus d’eau et les filles sont fatiguées. Je confirme l’erreur « d’aiguillage » avec le GPS. Peu avant le camping, on croise encore des kudus. On arrive au camping vers 13h10 (3h40 de marche).
La bière et le repas seront bien appréciés. Il y a un très beau nid de républicains sociaux sur un emplacement du camping. Les oiseaux entrent par un endroit et sortent par un autre...
Vers 15h, on décide d’aller faire quelques courses à Aus. A la 1ère supérette, il n’y a quasiment rien, on va donc à celle accolée au garage, où le choix est très limité. De retour au camping, les gens commencent à arriver, car nous étions seuls jusqu’à présent !
Je décide de monter vers 16h30 au point de vue du Vista trail (tracé rouge), je serai seul tout au long du chemin .Au bout de 25 minutes, j’atteins le sommet. La vue est extraordinaire, et j’assiste au coucher de soleil.
Il ne faut pas tarder à redescendre car la nuit tombe vite, je fais une grande partie de la descente en courant pour assurer le coup.
Ce soir, braii avec viande d’oryx. Délicieux !
Belle journée, on a bien apprécié de ne pas rouler aujourd'hui. Dodo à 20h,
Distance parcourue : 13km
Super cette suite, merci Frank.🙂 Les chevaux ont l'air bien amaigris, ils ne doivent pas avoir grande chose à manger. Il n'y a pas longtemps, j'ai vu un reportage sur les cheveux de Namibie, il parait le plus grand problème est le manque d'eau. Les juments n'ont parfois plus de lait et les poulains meurent de faim.😕
Lever à 6h30 pour partir vers 8h15 de Klein Aus Vista.
Fini les routes goudronnées, on va désormais rouler uniquement sur les gravel roads. On attaque la C13 qui est pourrie sur les 50 premiers km, nous obligeant à rouler à 30-50 km/h, ensuite ce sera entre 60 et 80 km/h. Les paysages sont variés, il y a beaucoup de poussière.
On s’arrête pique-niquer à mi-chemin, la poussière est entrée partout dans les meubles bas !
En route, on rencontre des autruches, oryx et springboks bien sûr. Vers Helmeringhausen, un énorme troupeau de moutons traverse la route. On assiste même à la naissance d’un agneau au bord de la piste...mais la mère apeurée préfère le laisser seul 😕!
La C27 traverse la Namib Rand Nature Reserve. Plusieurs panneaux indiquent la présence de girafes, zèbres…mais on n’en verra pas. On aperçoit les dunes rouges du desert du Namib.
La piste est de qualité variable, mais je roule assez vite, 80-90 km/h car on en a marre ! On arrive finalement vers 16h30, soit après 8h de route pour 360km!! Il fait très chaud : 32°c à Sesriem, on est plein de poussière ! Le camping Sossus Oasis est bien et l’emplacement très sympa (surtout la douche en plein air). Il y a une piscine, mais un peu fraîche, et un phacochère fait office de tondeuse à gazon pour la pelouse autour de la piscine !
On assiste à un très beau coucher de soleil, même si on est plutôt occupé à nettoyer le camping-car. On sort quasiment tout du camping-car pour dépoussiérer ou laver (surtout la vaisselle).Quelle idée d'avoir roulé les fenêtres ouvertes!! On est épuisé, quand on allume le barbecue pour faire cuire la viande d’Oryx qu’on vient d’acheter, il fait nuit depuis longtemps...
On mange rapidement, on regrette de ne pas avoir pu profiter un peu plus du camping très spacieux, bien équipé et calme. Notre emplacement n'est pas situé à proximité de la route, qui est de toute façon très peu fréquentée une fois le soleil couché.
Au final, journée très très longue, mais c'était le prix à payer pour mieux profiter de Aus. Ce qui nous a mis le moral dans les chaussettes , c'est de devoir nettoyer le camping-car, et de se dire que cela allait être pareil tous les soirs🤪.
Pas trop le temps en ce moment pour continuer le carnet...peut-être la semaine prochaine😎.
Par contre, je peux prendre un peu de temps pour te répondre sur le budget de notre voyage.
Le budget pour la Namibie dépend en grande partie du type d'hébergement. Les lodges pour une famille sont hors de prix dans les parcs nationaux et certains endroits très prisés. Le camping ou le camping car permettent de dormir dans des endroits magnifiques à petit prix (il y a très souvent un camping à côté du lodge).
Les billets d'avions sont chers en passant par AF ou Lufthansa. A 4, cela nous a couté 5500€ (1430/pers, 1230 pour la plus jeune des filles) depuis Toulouse avec AF (en A380😉). J'avais trouvé moins cher par Air Namibia mais je n'ai pas voulu passer par eux...C'est également moins cher en partant en semaine plutôt que le week-end, mais pour nous ce n'était pas possible.
Pour le cc, on a payé 3200€ avec 2 nuits au lodge à proximité (1ère et dernière nuit), et l'assurance "tous risques". Le carburant est à environ 0,8€/l, soit environ300-400€ pour le séjour. Pour les camping, je crois qu'on a dépensé 600€ pour 18 nuits. Les resto sont vraiment pas chers, les courses dans les supermarchés reviennent également moins cher qu'en France. Au total, je pense qu'on n'est pas loin des 10000€...
Si tu as besoin, n'hésite pas à me contacter.
Je commence à réfléchir à un voyage en Namibie en Septembre 2016, après avoir découvert l'AFS en septembre dernier, je vais donc te lire avec plaisir ..
Nous avons lu le récit de votre voyage en camping car en Namibie. Nous ne connaissons pas encore l'Afrique en cc mais ça nous tente bien. Pouvez vous nous indiquer si vous avez senti de l'insécurité, Avez vous pris de la malarone et enfin si ne c'est pas indiscret quel a été le coût de votre voyage. Merci beaucoup. Marie
La Namibie est une démocratie très stable et on ne ressent ps d'insécurité même si des rapines arrivent et si la capitale est aussi sujette comme partout à certaines exactions. Rien de comparable avec d'autres destinations.Pays à 90 % catholique et les gens très accueillants et souriants🙂. Malarone c'est surtout quand on va au Nord ou dans la bande de Caprivi et de la saison.Ce sera à votre médecin de vous conseiller pas forcément les forumers!Les prix dépendront de votre durée de séjour, avec ou sans guide, niveau d'hébergement, activités, type de restauration...difficile de vous répondre😉
J'attends avec impatience la suite du carnet car la Namibie en camping-car figure dans le trio des destinations pour l'été 2016 pour la famille....et tes photos sont si belles....
Carnets : Namibie en camping car, l'Est de l'Afrique du Sud, du KTP au Kaokoland en 4x4, la Norvège en hiver 2x, l'Ecosse en hiver, la Namibie avec remorque, l'Islande en camping car en juin, le tout avec 4 enfants, dans le profil https://voyageforum.com/v.f?membre=Caperam;
Me voici de retour sur VF après quelques semaines d'absence.
Voici donc la suite du carnet.
Jour 8 : Sesriem (Sossusvlei) - Samedi 11 Juillet 2015
Lever à 5h50, on s’habille et on range vite pour mettre le camping-car en configuration jour. On arrive devant la barrière du parc située à 300m du camping vers 6h30. Il y a déjà une bonne dizaine de voitures qui attendent l’ouverture. On entre vers 6h40, la garde n’est pas aimable du tout ! Les gens semblent tous pressés, nous pas plus que ça. On ne prend pas le permis, car le bureau du parc est fermé, on nous explique qu'on pourra payer au retour ce soir.
Hop, en route pour parcourir les 60km vers le parking 2x4 de Hidden Vlei. On y arrive un peu avant 8h après quelques arrêts photo. On déjeune, puis on prend la direction de Sossus Vlei par la navette du NWR (on doit payer 110$N par personne, seuls les moins de 8 ans ne payent pas…on paiera finalement 350$N avec 3 tickets pour nous 4??). On nous dépose au 1er arrêt : Dead Vlei.
On se dirige vers la crête d'une dune pour voir le clou du spectacle d’en haut. La plus jeune de mes filles a très peur, elle veut redescendre, puis finalement continue jusqu’à ce qu’elle puisse redescendre la dune côté Dead Vlei avec sa maman. Le panorama est époustouflant !!
Avec la plus grande, je monte jusqu’au sommet de Big Daddy à 840m d’altitude, une des plus haute dune du monde . Il parait qu’elle fait 350m de haut à partir du vlei, mon gps dira plutôt 250m ? La vue est extraordinaire d’en haut.
On redescend en courant tout droit, malgré la pente, sans aucun danger (même en cas de chute, on s'arrête immédiatement) vers le pied de la dune. Quand on descend vite, le déplacement du sable sous nos pieds provoque un bruit particulier, ça amuse beaucoup les filles !
On traverse ensuite tous ensemble Dead Vlei, avecBig Daddy en toile de fond...on y resterait des heures tellement c'est beau!
Arrivés au parking 4x4, je demande à un chauffeur si on peut aller à Sossus Vlei, il arrête alors un collègue qui nous prend en charge. Le trajet est finalement assez court, il faut bien se tenir car le conducteur roule à fond la caisse !
On commence à monter sur la dune Vlei, mais je finis seul. Sossus Vlei qui semblait moins joli que Dead Vlei, s’avère finalement très joli, car le paysage est plus « vert ». On aperçoit au fond Sossus Vleï. Encore une fois, c'est vraiment magnifique!
Après une descente rapide, et la traversée de Sossus Vlei, les filles m'appellent car elles sont en train de monter dans une navette et tout le monde m’attend pour partir, le chauffeur vient me récupérer et je monte à ses côtés. A environ 1km, de l’arrivée, on voit un van ensablé, un 4x4 est en train de le sortir à l’aide d’un gros ballon qui se gonfle sous la voiture avec les gaz d’échappement.
On repart après quelques minutes d'arrêt, le van arrivera à notre grande surprise à peine 5 min après nous au parking! On se demande comment il a réussi à aller si loin sans 4x4 ! Je pense que ce conducteur était conscient de ce qu'il faisait, et qu'il devait malgré tout être expérimenté pour se sortir de cette situation assez facilement ?
Le parking 2x4 est presque vide à notre retour, il n'est pas loin de 14h. On commence à déjeuner dehors, puis on finit à l’intérieur du camping-car car le vent se lève, il fait 21°c. On prend le chemin du retour, on fera Hidden Vlei demain matin.
En chemin, on rencontre un chacal :
On s’arrête à l'entrée du parc pour payer le permis et faire le check-in du camping (Sesriem Camp à l'intérieur du parc national). On obtient l’emplacement 11, malgré un raté au niveau de notre réservation. On part faire quelques courses à la boutique du Sossus Oasis Camp, mais vu le choix restreint on décide d’aller au resto ce soir.
Les containers pour le tri sélectif sont amusants :
J’avais prévu de monter sur la dune Elim pour assister au coucher de soleil, mais comme je ne suis pas sûr que l’accès soit facile (piste ?), on préfère rester au camping. Finalement, c’est un excellent choix, car notre emplacement est idéalement situé (vue dégagée vers l’ouest).
Après le coucher de soleil et la douche, on va à pied au Sossus Vlei lodge, car la barrière est fermée depuis 17h15. Je me fais confirmer par le garde qu'on pourra bien rentrer dans le camp après le resto, il nous demande d'être de retour avant 22h (?). La raison de cette préconisation restera un mystère, mais ce n'est pas un problème, et largement suffisant. On s'éclaire avec nos lampes frontales car il fait nuit, puis tout à coup, on se trouve nez à nez avec un springbok...qui lui nous avait certainement repérés!
Le cadre du lodge est luxueux, avec même un plan d’eau où viennent boire des oryx. Le buffet est gigantesque, on va manger de l’oryx, kudu, autruche, impala et blue wildebeest (gnou)… on bloque par contre sur le zèbre. On s’en sort pour 1225$N, un peu cher (car il n’y avait pas de tarif enfant) mais très copieux (buffet à volonté) et très bon.
Sur le chemin retour, on rencontre un oryx qui part en courant alors qu’il se trouvait à 3m de nous.
Dodo vers 21h pour les filles. Sossus Vlei est vraiment une merveille, très belle journée, nos déboires de la veille sont oubliés!
Distance parcourue : 123 km
Avec Louison Caperam et les autres vous êtes en train de nous donner envie d'y aller ...Plus que 2 destinations en lice pour cet été...dont la Namibie et oui oui nous sommes très très en retard...mais aussi encore plus motivés !
Jour 9 : Sossusvleï / Solitaire - Dimanche 12 Juillet 2015
Aujourd'hui, on se lève à 5h20, pour quitter le camping à 5h45, dès l’ouverture de la barrière intérieure (1h avant l’extérieure). Il fait froid : 6°c.
L’objectif de ce début de matinée est de s’arrêter au km 45 pour monter sur la Dune 45 avant le lever du soleil. Il y a un peu de monde, on n’est pas les seuls à avoir eu cette idée! On assiste à l’évènement presque depuis le sommet. La plus jeune des filles a encore très peur, et doit s’arrêter à mi-chemin. Super spectacle!
On redescend ensuite par le flan de la colline.
On repart en direction du parking 2x4 de Sossusvlei. Après avoir pris le petit déjeuner, on prend la direction de Hidden Vlei. Le chemin est vaguement indiqué par un panneau et quelques piquets en bois. On est seul, ça change d’hier, car Dead Vlei, étant plus facilement accessible, était forcément plus fréquenté. On verra une seule personne lors de cette randonnée. Très beau, et très calme.
Il est temps de repartir vers l’entrée du parc.
On part vers le sud en direction de Sesriem Canyon, mais je dois faire ½ tour, car la route d’accès au canyon se trouve finalement à l’intérieur du parc ! J’explique mon erreur au garde, qui me laisse entrer. Le canyon est sympa, mais on ne s’y attarde pas car il est 12h45.
L’employée du parc à la sortie me reconnait et me laisse passer. Après le plein de gasoil, on repart vers Solitaire. Petit arrêt pique-nique, mais à l’intérieur du camping-car, car il fait frais à l’ombre (21°c), et surtout les voitures soulèvent beaucoup de poussière à leur passage.
La route est défoncée surtout au départ de Sesriem, mais je roule vite : 70 à 90km/h…je maîtrise la conduite sur gravel road maintenant.
Arrêt à Solitaire, où on mange effectivement d’excellentes pâtisseries, même si l’accueil n’est pas très chaleureux.
On a retenu notre mauvaise expérience d’avant-hier : on roule les fenêtres et la ventilation fermées !
Vers 16h30, on arrive au Rostock Ritz Desert lodge. Moche à l’extérieur, joli à l’intérieur. On hésite à manger au resto, car il faudrait attendre 1 heure. On parvient à obtenir de la viande de bœuf à emporter (4 énormes steaks): 600 $N. Très cher, mais ça nous dépanne bien car il n'y a pas de commerces dans les environs ! Les filles ont observé les suricates du lodge pendant ce temps.
Nous repartons sur nos pas vers le camping qui est à environ 6 km du lodge. C’est en chemin qu'on rencontre notre 1er troupeau de zèbres de Hartmann : génial ! Le zèbre de Hartmann, qui est une des deux sous-espèces des zèbres de montagne, est quasiment endémique à la Namibie, et est considéré en danger. Ils se différencient des zèbres de savane (zèbres de Burchell) par l’absence de rayures sous le ventre, et une crinière un peu plus épaisse...c'était la minute zoologie 😉
On arrive au camping, il n’y a qu’une famille de sud-africains. On aperçoit au loin 3 autres zèbres. Nos gentils voisins allument le donkey pour faire chauffer l’eau de la douche.
C’est amusant d’avoir un beau panorama en se douchant. Il n’y a pas de grille sur le barbecue, donc le steak sera cuit dans la poêle 😕. Les filles sont fatiguées, elles sont réveillées depuis 5h30! Elles ont même ont du mal à finir de manger. Elles partent au dodo un peu plus tard que d’habitude mais ne tardent pas à s’endormir.
Distance parcourue : 285 km(260km prévus dans le roadbook)
Toujours pas de temps pour la suite ou pris par un autre voyage ?
Il me tarde de découvrir la suite surtout que nous partons pour un parcours presque similaire le 24 juillet prochain...Par contre pas en camping-car mais en 4 X4 avec tentes au sol et en mixant camping et lodges (j'appréhende les nuits glaciales)...
Bonjour,
Entre des travaux à effectuer dans la maison et la préparation d'un séjour dans l'ouest américain, j'avais été obligé de mettre de côté la rédaction de ce carnet de voyage.
Après plusieurs mois, me voilà de retour pour la suite du carnet...
Jour 10 : Solitaire / Swakopmund- Lundi 13 Juillet 2015
Réveil vers 6h30. Je monte sur la colline au-dessus du camping, pour voir le lever de soleil, et je profite du spectacle: il y a plusieurs groupes de 5 à 10 zèbres. Une fois les filles réveillées on y revient, mais les zèbres sont un peu plus loin.
En quittant le camping, on tombe encore sur un troupeau de zèbres.
On roule quelques km, et on rencontre enfin le Tropique du Capricorne (on a dû le louper en descendant vers Mariental au début du séjour) !
Vers le Gaub pass, on voit au-dessus de nous des impalas(??) qui s’enfuient donc pas de photo… Vers le canyon de Guiseb on voit 2-3 fois des zèbres…on ne s’arrête même pas, il faut dire qu’ils sont très craintifs et s’enfuient dès qu’on ralentit pour se garer. On voit des springboks et des autruches. Plus loin on verra un grand kudu mâle qui détale dès qu’il voit que je le pointe avec l’appareil photo ! Un chacal traine peu après. Le paysage devient désertique, et moins intéressant. Madame se lance et conduit le camping-car sur une piste bien droite!
On arrive vers Walvis Bay en passant devant la Dune7, et on voit nos premiers flamants roses. Il fait très frais : 13°c. On fait les courses tant attendues au spar ! Ce midi ce sera pizza…dont une mexicaine très très épicée !
Après le repas, direction le lagon et les salines. Le soleil est de retour, mais la température ne monte pas vraiment (15°c).
Il y a beaucoup de flamants roses, mais pas d’otaries à l'horizon.
On part vers le camping en passant par Swakopmund. Walvis bay est un énorme chantier : des résidences de vacance et villas en construction jusqu’à la limite du parc Dorob. Certaines villas ont vue sur la plate-forme pétrolière qui se trouve près de la côte(on apprendra le lendemain qu'elle vient d’Angola pour maintenance).
La ville contraste énormément avec le reste du pays avec ses villas, et voitures de luxe, ses pelouses bien vertes et ses routes goudronnées...
Il n'y a pas foule au camping Sophia Dale (tant mieux), ça change des campings précédents, mais c’est bien. On retrouve l’électricité, et un peu de wifi. On restera certainement 2 nuits. On goûte le biltong d’oryx…pas transcendant (bon, finalement je changerai d'avis plus tard😄). On apprécie le poulet et les courgettes, ça change des pâtes.
On se met tous au lit à 19h45 !
Entre temps nous aussi sommes partis..en Namibie mais pas en camping-car (trop de pistes !) . En 4X4 avec tentes sur le toit et tente au sol suite à un loupé dans notre réservation !
Ce fut un voyage inoubliable et nous avons encore la tête pleine de souvenirs que vous ravivez à nouveau vous qui avez le courage d écrire un récit avec photos et la gentillesse de partager votre expérience !
Alors surtout continuez et je prendrai plaisir à poursuivre la lecture ...
Carnets de voyage › Afrique du Sud / Namibie · 260 replies
Voici le retour de notre road trip de 5 semaines en Afrique du Sud et en Namibie!!! (Juillet-Aout 2015) Comme on dit en africain: Enjoy! Hein quoi ce n’est pas…
Je vais tenter de m'appliquer dans la rédaction car j'ai la mauvaise habitude de ne pas me relire et j'ai vu depuis mes nombreuses fautes et oublis! Arrivés le…
Voici le récit de nos trois semaines en Namibie, voyage qui s'est déroulé du 24 septembre au 14 octobre 2012. Nous sommes partis avec nos quatre enfants de 4,…
Carnets de voyage › Namibie / Botswana · 32 replies
Avec nos enfants de 10 et 8 ans, cet été nous sommes partis à la découverte de la Namibie et du Botswana, à la recherche des grands espaces que nous aimons…
Carnets de voyage › Namibie / Botswana · 106 replies
Voici 6 mois maintenant que nous sommes rentrés de notre périple à travers la Namibie et le Botswana... Sur place, nous avions tenté d'alimenter un blog au fil…
This travel journal summarizes a trip I took in March to Argentine and Chilean Patagonia. It starts in El Calafate and ends in Ushuaia. During my planning, I considered looking into the Australis cruise from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia, as well as the W trek in Torres del Paine National Park. In both cases, I was put off by the prices. Instead of the cruise, I found two interesting wildlife excursions from Punta Arenas: whale watching in the Strait of Magellan and observing king penguins in Tierra del Fuego. The journey to Ushuaia was by bus. For Torres del Paine, things were a bit confusing, so I reached out to two agencies. In the end, I went with a rental car option, overnight stays on-site, and day hikes. I shared my full itinerary with the agency and ended up being taken care of by a local Argentine agency and a Chilean one.
So, here we go...
March 2nd — Departure by bus from Latour at 6:50 AM. The journey isn’t direct: we pass through Elne then Corneilla. In Perpignan, I switch to a BlablaBus heading to Barcelona’s northern bus station. Before reaching Le Perthus, French police stop us to check IDs. Several people aren’t in order, but after about fifteen minutes, we’re on our way again. We’re checked again at La Jonquera: this time, the wait lasts almost forty-five minutes while police identify those in violation and wait for a vehicle to pick them up. The driver then tries to make up for lost time; we finally arrive at our destination half an hour late.
I quickly head to the Arc de Triomphe metro station, located 200 meters away: you have to cross the bridge along the bus parking lot, then walk through a large garden; the station is on the right before the garden entrance. The trip to the airport isn’t direct: I have to change at Tomasso and take the line to the airport, where I arrive at 1 PM.
At the Emirates counter, I learn my flight was just canceled due to the war in Iran; they offer me another flight for the next day. I have to wait at the airport until 7 PM before being taken to a hotel; the next morning, I’ll take a flight to Vienna (with an 8-hour layover), then an Air India flight to Delhi, and finally a flight to Kolkata. I agree: I don’t know Vienna, so it’ll be an unexpected discovery.
At 7 PM, a small group is taken to the hotel, 35 minutes from the airport, where we’re served a light dinner upon arrival.
March 3rd — A taxi picks me up at 6:30 AM; the flight to Vienna takes off at 9:30 AM and arrives at noon. I’m free until 7 PM; the metro is direct to the city center. The weather is pleasant and not too cold, luckily, since my clothes are light.
When I exit the metro, I spot the St. Stephen’s Cathedral tower in the distance and approach it: the roof, made of glazed tiles, is remarkable.
Entry is free, and the interior, a mix of Gothic and Baroque styles in the center, is stunning.
Not far from there is St. Anne’s Church
, also Baroque, adorned with beautiful frescoes
—a music concert adds an enchanting atmosphere to the visit.
I continue my walk at random through the pedestrian streets lined with magnificent buildings: I’m charmed by the city.
Before heading back to the airport, I stop at a lovely tea salon. My flight will eventually leave with a delay.
Wednesday, March 4th — Delhi and a little luggage scare
We arrive in Delhi shortly after noon. Immigration is quick, and good news: my bag was checked through from Barcelona to Kolkata. I head to the connecting terminal and arrive half an hour before boarding: the flight goes smoothly. Upon arrival, the luggage comes out quickly… except mine. After filing a report, I’m told my bag is in Delhi—I have to retrieve it before taking another flight. I didn’t know (or had forgotten): with the delays, I wouldn’t have had time to pick it up and make the connection.
I take a taxi to the Ichamati Hotel. The welcome is warm, and the room is clean but very small. Without my bag, I feel a bit lost—I have nothing to change into.
Tonight, I’m dining with Raja and his friends at a beautiful restaurant, an old colonial house turned into a hotel.
We’re happy to see each other and have a comforting evening together.
Here’s our account of our trip to Malaysia from September 11th to 27th.
I hope our tips can help others as much as this forum has helped us!
Day 0:
Departure from Nantes with a transfer in Amsterdam via KLM (720 €).
Day 1:
We arrive at KLIA1 in the early afternoon.
First challenge: figuring out where to pick up our luggage. Turns out the answer is right under our noses—we need to take the airport’s internal metro!
Once we’ve got our bags, we withdraw some cash from a Maybank ATM right there.
Next up: SIM card! Just outside the arrivals hall, several kiosks offer them. We go for a Celcom 5 GB card (70 RM).
Then it’s taxi time to get to KL, in the Bukit Bintang area—about 85 RM in a slightly old taxi with weak air conditioning.
We check into our Airbnb apartment, which is clean, more spacious than a hotel room, and—best of all—has a charming balcony with a gorgeous nighttime view!
We end up hanging out on that balcony, reviewing our plans for the next day. After dark, we take the monorail just a short walk away to enjoy our first evening on a rooftop at the 34th floor: Hélipad (Raja Chulan station—you have to enter the Menara Tower at the base of the station) with a panoramic view of the city and its iconic towers.
Finally, we head to Jalan Alor to grab a bite in this super busy street.
Big sleep ahead! 😴
This trip had been on my mind for about fifteen years.
But the discomfort of overnight stays, the difficulty of communication, and the prices of the few car rentals kept making me postpone the project.
And then, everything fell into place—I told myself, now’s the time!
Preparations took longer than usual; the destination is still far from mainstream.
A bit of Kazakhstan?
Not in the end.
The south or not?
Yes, in the end.
Pre-book or play it by ear?
Only two stops were a leap into the unknown.
To help me find the ideal route, I made great use of this forum (thanks to everyone for patiently answering my questions!), pored over travel journals and blogs (Christian, Jeff), zoomed in on Google Maps and Yandex, and bought the guide published by OunTravela on this destination (the guide has been updated since).
---/---
You’ve got your passport, international driver’s license, bank cards, and euros?
Off we go to Lyon—just one night left before our early morning flight.
Tomorrow night, we’ll be sleeping in Bishkek!
(‘Beefsteak’ for my partner’s mischievous nephews...)
After the summer of 2022 left me with a sense of unfinished business, here I am back in Swedish Lapland for the summer of 2024, ready to attempt the Sarek crossing again—and this time, tackle part of the Kungsleden too.
After much hesitation, my companion Jean Marie and I decided to start with the Kungsleden, which, from what we’ve read, is stunning but very crowded (and it really is!!), and finish with the wilder option: SAREK! This park is known as Europe’s last wild space—I think it’s incredibly inspiring!!
The downside of this choice is that there are no resupply options in Sarek, and the Kungsleden isn’t exactly set up for long treks either, so we’ll have to carry a lot of food for the first part with Sarek in mind.
But hey, we’re motivated!
Our plan is to start in Abisko (classic), head to Vakkotavare (also classic, but with some variations to avoid the official route and the crowds), then continue the Kungsleden from Saltoluokta. Before Aktse, we’ll set off on an east-to-west crossing of Sarek (weather-dependent, since aside from the Skarja hut in the center of the park, there’s no shelter if conditions turn bad).
At least we’ll be on the right side of the park to climb Skierfe and enjoy the jaw-dropping view of Rappaladen if we have to abandon the Sarek crossing.
That adds up to 17 days of trekking, including 1 rest day + 1 buffer day for weather delays.
So if you’re interested, I invite you to follow our overstuffed backpacks!
08/03 - Abisko – 5km before Abiskojaure
Some info (guides used for prep, SFT map, sending food to Saltoluokta)
08/04 – 5km before Abiskojaure - on the east shore of Lake Alisjavri
08/05 – East shore of Lake Alisjavri – just before Tjaktja
08/06 – Just before Tjaktja – above the Salka hut via Nallo
08/07 - Salka – just past Singi + side trip to Djalson Lake
08/08 - Singi – Teusajaure
08/09 - Teusajaure - Vakkotavare (end of the first section of the Kungsleden)
08/10 – rest day in Saltoluokta + round trip to the Sámi village of Pietjaure
08/11 – Saltoluokta – Sitojaure
08/12 - Sitojaure - Skierfe - So, Sarek or no Sarek?
08/13 – Skierfe – somewhere above Rapadalen
08/14 – Somewhere above Rapadalen – above the Skarki hut
Coming up:
08/15 – Above the Skarki hut - Skarja
June 2024.
While hiking with my brother on the GR 36 Tour du Morvan, I catch sight now and then of strange rectangular markers fixed to tree trunks. Against a bright orange background, a deep black Greek tau topped with a white dove. My first encounter with the Assisi Way.
The Way of St. Francis: a pilgrimage route linking Vézelay in Burgundy to Assisi in Italy, covering nearly 1,800 km.
It felt like an obvious next step—I immediately knew I’d take it on, attempt the adventure solo.
In the months that followed, I talked about my project to everyone—family, friends, my partner. An avalanche of comments, more or less the same but varying depending on each person’s character and life experiences. But deep down, it all boiled down to one legitimate question: why?
And the answers?
Hesitant, awkward, partial, even confused. I quickly realized they weren’t so easy to find. It was as if my project seemed more like a whim, a kind of intimate caprice, rather than a well-thought-out plan.
Of course, I knew the reasons that pushed me to leave—you always have to give some. Loved ones need to understand to feel reassured, and that’s understandable.
But I fear that when I list them, they’ll sound like the same old checklist anyone embarking on this kind of journey might give.
Of all the reasons I could mention, I’ll highlight just one here: the call of the road, the solo adventure that brings a powerful sense of freedom.
A bit like Monsieur Seguin’s goat, who from her comfortable pen gazes longingly at the unconstrained horizon of the mountain.
But if I’m being honest, I think I didn’t really know what I was looking for—or, more importantly, what I’d find. Deep down, when I reflect on it, one word keeps coming up that explains nothing and everything at once: desire.
Now well past sixty, I know that when I ask myself who I am or where I’m going, two things bring me fully back to myself: hiking and writing.
And my intention was also to anchor this adventure through words, day by day. Writing down my feelings, emotions, discoveries, and reflections each evening. The famous travel journal that grounds the daily experience in reality.
When I discovered the app "Polarstep," which was initially just meant to keep my loved ones updated and reassured, inform them of my progress, and maintain a connection, I found an opportunity to do it a little differently than usual.
No retrospective notes polished up after returning, but spontaneous writing—recounting everything that crossed my mind during the day and publishing it immediately. A journey lived in real time.
This text is the exact transcription of my daily writings. Rereading them, I didn’t change a thing—just corrected a few mistakes and tweaked some awkward phrasing here and there. Short texts, fitting the format imposed by this kind of app. Writing as if addressing others.
Now, all that was left was to walk.
April 18, 2026 – Vézelay.
After a pretty disastrous weather-wise trip to Gran Canaria, we’re hoping this time the sun will shine in Puglia.
It’s not a sure thing, though—the weather’s been awful all over Europe in early May.
For those who’d like to (re)read the story without the digressions, it’s here.
Saturday, May 16:
This time we’re flying out of Charleroi (Brussels South): the ticket prices, flight times, and proximity all worked for us.
The airport (Ryanair) was recently renovated... but it’s still not very well organized. There are hardly any seats in the boarding areas, and... the restrooms cost money!!!
The flight goes smoothly, though, and we land in Bari a little late.
We quickly pick up our rental car, a very local-looking Pandina (even more so than the Fiat 500 in this region), and hit the Italian roads... and their unique driving quirks (like the fact that the countless road signs along the streets and in towns are purely decorative 😏, and that Italian cars don’t have turn signals 😮... except for rental cars).
About an hour later, we arrive at our first accommodation, right in the middle of the countryside near Monopoli.
The owner isn’t there, but they’ve left us a ton of info via messages and even turned on the space heater, which is a nice touch.
We explore the property:
And the next morning before breakfast, its immediate surroundings:
Sunday, May 17:
After our "seaside" experience in Gran Canaria last weekend (packed with people and locals), we decide to start inland.
After a hearty breakfast,
we head toward Alberobello, a super touristy village famous for its trulli—those stone houses with conical roofs.
We easily find a free parking spot on a street near the Aia Piccola district, where some trulli are still lived in year-round.
We almost immediately come across the Trullo Sovrano (the only two-story one), which you can visit (but we skip it—it’s opening time, and there’s already a line).
From there, we head down toward the Basilica of Cosma e Damiano... but we don’t go in because there’s a mass.
Now we’re on the main Piazza del Popolo, which connects the two districts of Alberobello: Rione Aia Piccola and Rione Monti, the more touristy one.
Come along, I'm taking you to this country where it's so nice to wander and slow down...
This trip was in 2023, but when I wanted to write my travel journal, VF was still closed to contributions...
So, now that I've just finished my Japan travel journal here, I figured it was high time to honor this destination we came back from so enchanted.
Disclaimer 1: This is a written travel journal. There’ll be text! Too much, for some!
Disclaimer 2: This is an illustrated travel journal. There’ll be photos! Too many, for some!
I have to say, every time I try to discipline myself, to keep it shorter, to include fewer photos... I end up adding more. It feels like my dear Aunt Nicole, who exhausted us with her slide-show evenings in the 70s/80s, decided to take her revenge. The upside for you, readers, is that you can slip away anytime without offending Aunt Nicole. I won’t even notice!
Anyway, since I love maps, here’s one to give you an idea of where I’m taking you. As you can see, we only saw a tiny part of Laos (the areas circled in red); we only had 3 weeks for ourselves (my husband’s newly retired, I still work), and we prefer taking our time over rushing around like crazy.
In broad strokes, it was very classic:
First, we “settled in” at Luang Prabang (8 days), because we wanted and needed to.
From there, we took three days to venture a little further north—not far in kilometers, but as we know, distances aren’t just about km!
Then we flew south to Paksé, letting ourselves drift down to the 4,000 Islands while stopping by the pre-Angkorian archaeological sites.
We wrapped up with the Bolaven Plateau.
A few practical notes: We arrived via Bangkok, then took a Bangkok-Luang Prabang flight, having picked up our luggage in Bangkok to check it in for Luang Prabang. No issues—the Bangkok airport, which many of you know, is very well organized.
We got our visas on arrival in Luang Prabang. Quick, but to be fair, we were on a “small” plane, and the big flights had arrived earlier, so we weren’t too crowded in line!
At the end of our trip, we didn’t fly out of Paksé but from the nearby airport in Thailand, Ubon Ratchathani (a 2.5-hour drive from Paksé), then Bangkok and Paris.
You’ll notice we skipped Vientiane to stay longer in Luang Prabang. That said, there’s now a high-speed train between Vientiane and Luang Prabang—good to know—and soon the (Chinese) train will go all the way to Bangkok and even Kuala Lumpur!
With that intro out of the way, let’s dive into the heart of the matter.
To be continued: Slowing down the pace... in Luang Prabang
Here’s a little story about my first trip to Japan with my partner.
We went for our first visit from October 29 to November 13, 2024.
I had planned this entire trip back in November 2020, but given the health situation at the time, I had to cancel...
Here’s the classic route we took:
We booked everything ourselves and got a regional pass for the area from Kyoto to Hiroshima.
The hotels were reserved 3 months in advance on Book... and Agod... (1030 € for 2 people for 13 nights = 80 €/night).
For the flight, we chose a Qatar Airways flight with a layover to break up the long journey (950 € per person).
We also got a pass on the same site (Japan-Experience) to take the train connecting Narita Airport to Shibuya Station (the N'EX Narita Express).
Since the airport is 75 km from central Tokyo, we opted for this mode of transport, even though there are cheaper alternatives.
After reading various posts on VoyageForum, I understood how important it was to have a Welcome Suica card to pay for public transport (subway, tram, bus, boat throughout the country), and we were able to buy one at Narita Airport.
It turned out to be super useful!
After a long but smooth journey, we found ourselves at Narita Airport in the evening.
Even though we had a pass for the Narita Express, we had to go to a counter to make a reservation for the train (mandatory).
Then, once we arrived at Shibuya Station, we took the subway for 2 stops and finally reached our hotel, exhausted (Hotel Asia Center of Japan – 270 € for 3 nights with breakfast included).
I’m inviting you on a stroll through my drawings—a completely subjective, far-from-exhaustive, and totally personal take, since it’s based on my own sketches. I put this travel journal together after returning in late 2024, mostly using felt-tip pens and pencils, with a few collages thrown in. I worked from our personal photos.
Let’s start with the shotengai...
Our first "wow" moment came as we stepped out of the subway in Asakusa, the Tokyo neighborhood where we’d booked our hotel for our first five nights. Exhausted after our long flight, we finally arrived and took an exit that led straight into a shotengai—one of those covered shopping streets that dot city centers and flourished between the 1950s and 1980s.
It was an instant aesthetic shock, like a close encounter of the third kind between the modern city, a typical Asian market with its street stalls, the "vintage" vibe of the arcade, the sheer abundance of goods, and the bustling crowd—a colorful mix of tourists, pilgrims (thanks to the nearby Asakusa Temple), and locals (it’s a very working-class area).
In the end, it set the tone for a feeling we’d experience throughout the trip. Wherever we went, shotengai turned out to be fantastic spots for finding little restaurants, shops, or even fresh produce. Some are real mazes, like in Kyoto, where we spent ages trying to relocate a restaurant we’d loved ;-)
In Kanazawa, the Omicho Market:
And in Kyoto, the Nishiki Market:
With my girlfriend Christelle, we’ve chosen South Africa for our first trip to Southern Africa, focusing on safaris—after a long debate with a Cape Town/Kruger combo.
But that would’ve meant cutting out St Lucia, which would’ve been harder to fit into another trip.
And St Lucia—thanks to Michel and all those travel journals—we really wanted to go there.
So our 11-night itinerary ended up like this, mostly shaped by school holidays:
- 3 nights in St Lucia
- 1 night in Hluhluwe
- 1 night at Mkhaya Game Reserve (Eswatini)
- 1 night at Hlane Royal National Park (Eswatini)
- 3 nights in Kruger (Berg en Dal / Satara / Tamboti)
- 1 night at Shindzela Tented Camp in the Timbavati private reserve
- 1 final night in Kruger at Lower Sabie
All of this in the off-season and rainy season, just a month after catastrophic floods that killed over 150 people and seriously damaged Kruger’s infrastructure.
I’ll jump straight to St Lucia and skip the loooong journey to get there (with a layover in Frankfurt, landing in Johannesburg, a domestic flight to Durban, and the rest by rental SUV—First Car Rental, perfect, no complaints).
To motivate readers—especially some familiar faces here—I’ll drop in a first photo.
If you're looking for great tips and offbeat spots, if you love exploring uncharted parts of a country, if the exotic is your adrenaline, then move along!
Our 15 days in early May in this part of Turkey (a country I first discovered during a city trip to Istanbul in 2017) will only tread well-worn paths and revisit popular routes. Simply because I kept hoping until the very end that our flight to Jordan wouldn’t be canceled. Events in the Gulf proved me wrong, so we left with:
Zero preparation.
Not a single hotel booked (well, except the first one), no visits planned, just a flight ticket bought three weeks earlier. No guidebook, no app—just the desire to explore southern Turkey and Cappadocia, whose images and the chance to stretch our legs had caught my eye.
Oh, wait—I did bring along a new guide: Gemini! Yes, my friends, generative AI was my chief advisor throughout the trip for sites to visit, accommodations, routes, and even restaurants! An experiment I wanted to try to form my own opinion on using this new technology. And what better way to test it than a Turkish getaway?
The verdict? You’ll have to wait for the trip recap to find out!
The main idea of the trip is also relaxation.
So, the plan is Antalya for a few days, the Turkish Riviera for a few more, Cappadocia as the highlight, and a return via Antalya to wrap up the trip. And it was all planned by AI!
So, if you're ready, fasten your seatbelts—cabin crew, doors to automatic and cross check—boarding for Turkey now!
We went to Albania in August 2025.
Our itinerary included adventure (sporty activities, site visits), naps on the beach interspersed with swims, incredible natural sites, and a bit of culture.
I booked all our accommodations on Booking.com. Note: almost all places ask to be paid in cash!! You can obviously withdraw from banks, but the fees are pretty high. Luckily, we had plenty of cash, and the country is very safe. You can pay in euros most of the time, which avoids exchange fees.
We started in Tirana. I’d read a really interesting post about Albania’s bunkers (link in my profile). We chose to visit Bunk’Art with a guide from the agency that wrote the post. It was fascinating—not only to better understand the country’s history but also because her grandfather was repressed by the regime, and she shared her family’s experience with us.
Bunkers are everywhere! In Tirana, Bunk’Art is the most interesting and largest. You’ll see the dictator Enver Hoxha’s office, where he would’ve taken refuge in case of an attack on the country. Bring a sweater—it’s really cold in the underground tunnels and their huge corridors.
You can visit other bunkers around the country, in Tirana and elsewhere. Almost all are just abandoned.
The cable car up Mount Dajti is right next to Bunk’Art. The view is stunning—you realize Tirana is so close to the mountains and the sea... But otherwise, it’s not that exciting for older teens (17 and 19) and their parents.
We picked up a rental car in Tirana—it’d be ours for the next three weeks. We used Goalbania’s agency to avoid any hassles. First, there aren’t many cars available in Albania in summer. Second, French credit cards can be a nightmare abroad. So we preferred to sort that out in advance.
After Tirana, we headed to Permet. Just a heads-up: the roads are in great condition except in the mountains. And Albanian drivers aren’t stressful to deal with. Though you might suddenly encounter a herd of goats crossing the road—haha—but if you’re not going too fast, it’s fine.
In Permet, I’d been dreaming of rafting on the Vjosa, one of Europe’s last wild rivers. And we did it with a local agency! It’s beautiful, accessible to everyone, not too physical but still a bit lively—just how we like it. You can even jump into the river in some spots.
In Permet, we also hiked through a canyon and visited a lovely little church.
And we took a workshop to make their local culinary pride: gliko. It’s a jam with whole fruits inside. We’d seen it on Goalbania’s site, and it was really fun. We were with a family where the secret to making gliko has been passed down for generations...
Next, we headed to Gjirokastër. A city we loved: its old traditional houses (Skendulli and Zekate), its grand castle, the Ali Pasha Bridge. Along the way, we stopped for artisanal ice cream at a little shop run by a grandmother who’s been making it herself for ages.
One afternoon, my husband *had* to go to the coast in the south, to Ksamil (he’d read it was better than Sarandë). Verdict: we didn’t like it. Parking is a nightmare, the beaches are super noisy and crowded. The sea is packed with jet skis, boats, pedalos, and ropes. Avoid it.
On the other hand, we really liked Himarë, where we went next. We stayed at a campsite where we rented tents with mattresses and sheets inside. Right by the sea, on a low cliff (about 2 meters high). You can hear the waves at night... Magical!! To swim, you either jump straight into the sea (almost from the tent) or climb down a ladder, which you’ll need to climb back up to get out.
I was a little worried the campsite wouldn’t be very comfortable, so afterward, I’d booked a small place in Gjilek. Turns out, the place was really tiny (one room for four, no kitchen) and pretty expensive (over 100 € a night). We’d drive to the beach or restaurants—it’s on a steep slope, so not very accessible. Parking near the sea is tricky. But the (private) beaches were nice—we’d rent an umbrella not too close to the music and spend the day there. We also went to a wilder beach, harder to reach, via a long path. Behind the beach, there’s an amazing canyon where we’d sometimes climb using ropes (already in place, no need to bring your own) over big boulders rolled around by the stream, which must swell a lot in spring.
So, the sea in Albania: it’s nice if you like swimming and relaxing, but it’s not the most interesting part of the country. There are so many other amazing things to see and discover—so many stunning sites! Maybe an agency could’ve helped us find more practical accommodations and avoid Ksamil and its surroundings.
We left the coast to head to the beautiful city of Berat and its "thousand windows." We explored the city, its fortress, and its icon museum.
Then we discovered the Osum Canyon—it’s incredible. The view from the top is breathtaking. And at the bottom, it’s magical. There’s little water in summer, so rafting isn’t an option. We weren’t tempted by the big-tube descent offered by an agency—it looked fun, but the group had 40 people. We preferred hiking on our own as a family of four. We scouted the area on Google Maps... and found where to descend. We walked in the water, then it rose to our waists, then our shoulders... We weren’t moving fast. And how to get back up?? Eventually, we followed a group with a guide—the path was hard to find.
After that unforgettable hike, we visited the Bogovë Waterfalls. It’s pretty, and we swam, but the water was *really* cold.
We passed through Tirana again and then headed to Shkodër. We explored a bit—its charming little streets, the Rozafa Fortress. There’s a tiny museum where you can see *huge* Ottoman stone cannonballs. And they tell you the (charming) story of the young woman who was walled alive in the castle’s foundations to ensure its strength...
Shkodër is mostly a stopover to head into the mountains and discover Theth. Our goal: hiking in the Valbona Valley, from Valbona to Theth. We organized the trip ourselves, without an agency, but it took some time to figure everything out. So I’ll save you the trouble—haha. Book your tickets on the Komanilakeferry website. The ticket includes:
🙂 minibus transfer from downtown Shkodër to Koman
🙂 ferry ticket from Koman to Fierze. This ferry ride is *gorgeous*—between mountain slopes covered in pine trees, and sometimes a little house with a few fields...
🙂 minibus ticket from Fierze to Valbona. Now you’re in the mountains! The minibus drops you off near your accommodation—pick one as close as possible to the start of the hike (if that’s your goal!). The ones at the far end of the village add up to 1.5 hours of walking. Our choice: Guesthouse Dioni. The host is really lovely, it’s in the woods, and it’s basic but great.
After a day of hiking, we arrived in Theth. What beautiful mountains! Then we explored Theth and the surrounding area. It’s pretty busy, but you can still enjoy the Blue Eye of Theth and its swim. It’s *so* cold! But so beautiful!
🙂 minibus ticket from Theth back to Shkodër.
After a night in Shkodër, we drove to Kepi i Rodonit. A guidebook (I forget which one) raved about its beauty. And it *is* beautiful!
But the view is ruined by plastic bottles and other trash in the bushes, along the paths, and of course on the beaches. The only peaceful spot: the private beach at Kepi i Rodonit, which is cleaned. You can rent an umbrella and have lunch there. That’s where we spent our last few days—very relaxing.
In short... Albania turned out to be perfect for us and our teens!
I’m diving into a recap of our loop—pretty classic, really—Denver-Yellowstone-Denver this past summer, from July 24 to August 17. Given the sheer number of trip reports already out there (or in the works), and since I don’t have the writing chops or the photography skills of many of you, I’ll keep it practical—well, I’ll try, at least—to share our take on some of the less-visited parks and spots.
First off, a huge thank you to everyone whose trip reports, blogs, websites, comments, and more helped us put together this itinerary. Looking back, it could’ve been even better optimized: a few disappointments when we missed out on some great discoveries, often because we were short on time. Plenty of reasons to come back to the area!
We’re traveling with our four (almost) teens—18, 16, 14, and nearly 12 years old. To keep the trip enjoyable for everyone, we had to make compromises on both sides: cutting a visit short to spend more time swimming, waking up at dawn, and so on. But logistics also played a big role—things like laundry, grocery shopping, and keeping luggage organized could’ve quickly become time-consuming without a little planning.
And honestly, I think we visited every Walmart along the way! Blame it on the lack of fridges in some accommodations and, more importantly, the *very* limited space in the car, which made it impossible to bring a proper cooler. I’ll come back to the car saga later.
For accommodations, this year we alternated between basic cabins in KOA campgrounds and Yellowstone (when staying more than one night in the same place) and hotels. Always with a pool (except in Yellowstone, of course), which let the kids burn off energy—because they always have reserves, even after packed days!—and, let’s be honest, gave us a chance to relax. No Wi-Fi issues either; we all had plans with 25 GB of data (a big thanks to Gilles for the amazing deal at 0.99 €). It worked perfectly, even for texts and calls between phones—no extra charges.
Now, onto our route: as I mentioned, a classic Denver-Yellowstone-Denver loop. To avoid rushing through the parks or spending all our time on the road, we prioritized staying as close to them as possible, with at least two nights in each place. And I’ve got to say, it’s really nice to settle in, even if it’s just for two nights. It also helped us deal with the weather, which wasn’t always great during this trip. The trade-off? With vacation time being limited, some driving days ended up being long. We knew that going in, but since we kept a relaxed pace with no time constraints (don’t ask me for timings—I don’t keep track of the clock on vacation, except in the morning to get everyone up before noon!), we sometimes ended up with marathon days.
With that said, I’ll dive into the trip itself in the next post.
We all have two lives. And the second one kicks off the day you realize you only have one, with the determination to spend the time you have left on what truly adds sparkle to your life, Kevin! I like to elegantly introduce a trip with a philosophical quote. First, it gives you the illusion that I’m some kind of deep thinker, and second, it lets me fill up the first few lines of my blank page when I don’t know how to tell you I’m diving back into what really lights up my life: another adventure beyond the horizon! And nearly every other year, like a toxic relationship, my horizon tends to take shape in Uncle Sam’s backyard. And this, despite his cousin Donald calling the shots. Speaking of which, it was partly that impulsive guy who pushed us to be just as impulsive and snag our four flight tickets at a ridiculously low price—a direct result of foreign tourism taking a hit from BetaMax’s repeated antics... Four tickets? Who are the other lucky ones? In this case, our lucky ones are actually lucky ladies: My Flo, always up for exploring the world with me on foot, camelback, or scooter, is obviously in on the fun. The other two seats went to our daughters, Sasha and Luna, both thrilled to be part of this new American adventure...
But what’s the American West like in February?... A gamble. Let’s call it Russian roulette since we’re not landing during peak weather season. That’s why we encouraged our transportation and accommodation to get cozy and produce a little camper van, so we can stay ultra-flexible in the face of any weather tantrums. We’ll be roaming in Kara the van with the motto "Follow the sun!" Bad weather? We bolt. Snow? We speed up. Sunny? We act like it was the plan all along and soak it up.
"Okay, but why keep coming back to the same corner of the globe? After ten American adventures, you must be tired of seeing the same things, right?" But I’m not crazy, you know!... The American West is like making love to your gorgeous wife over and over, always enjoying it just as much. And contrary to what you might think, the American West isn’t just the Grand Canyon, Monument Valley, Las Vegas, and Bryce Canyon. Proof is, after ten trips to the U.S., my retinas are still untouched by three-quarters of the places I scribbled on a napkin for this adventure... Oh, and add to that my wife, who I’ve easily converted to my religion, and boom... relapse is even easier! Because yes, we’ve landed in Los Angeles after a sunny flight over Greenland, still under Danish flag for now. And we’re already heading east through the XXL traffic of L.A.’s eight-lane highways, eager to dive into our first discoveries. But first, night is taking over the sky, and second, we’ve been officially awake for 24 hours, so I suggest wrapping up this intro. I’ll tell you more tomorrow morning. Sound good?
And we still haven’t seen everything!
Before setting off for new horizons at the end of this year, it’s time for me to share my trip to Cape Verde this summer 2025.
I particularly love these spontaneous trips, and our stay in Cape Verde is one of those because it was only at the beginning of April that we decided on this getaway, which had been catching our eye for a while, given our love for the mountains.
As always—well, when it’s open—I turned to VF, and I want to immediately thank Marie, aka ptitortue, who helped me a lot in planning this trip through her travel journals and our exchanges!
Because Cape Verde is both small and vast! We decided not to rush from one airport to another, to enjoy the places and the people, but also to relax, since the work backlog from being stuck in May (see my previous travel journal 😅) had to be caught up on in June.
So, 4 islands will be our winners from 06/28 to 07/19:
Santiago first for logistical reasons, as round-trip flights from the capital Praia were the cheapest (650 €/person from Lyon via Lisbon with TAP, still!)
São Vicente, because it’s the gateway to the next one but ultimately more than that...
Santo Antão, pretty much the main goal of the trip since Marie (and the photos) had really sold it to me.
And finally, Sal Island, for some rest—a non-negotiable condition for my other half—and we’ll see that I should’ve listened to Marie...
That said, what a chatterbox I am—buckle up, flight attendants at the doors, off we go on new beautiful escapes! (Thanks to Sophie for the easy loan)
Last note for my eager fan club 😏: yes, there will be alcohol—how could there not be in the land of grogue!
Hello,
Since I enjoy not only the countryside but also everything related to rail travel, I’m starting this photo thread dedicated to trains in Thailand (I’d guess most of us have taken one at some point...).
Feel free to post your pictures here as long as they fit the theme: rolling stock**, stations**, platforms, tracks (even without a train on them), technical equipment, engineering structures (bridges, viaducts), etc.—all in Thailand.
For each photo, I’ll (or you can) note the station or line where it was taken.
Comments and questions are welcome.
As I’ve mentioned elsewhere, I inherited my love of travel from my parents and some of my grandparents. A strong passion, but one that was unfortunately limited by our family’s modest resources. Back then, living in northern Alsace, a simple trip to the southern part of the region—with the Wine Route as our destination—felt like an extraordinary journey to a land of plenty for the little boy I was in the late 60s and early 70s.
Everything seemed so huge when you were still just a kid.
Back then, I was overwhelmed by countless sensations—I was already highly sensitive, with a keen mind and a nose and taste buds that were developing like a pro’s. Which, as I’d later realize, wasn’t always an advantage.
Those magical days always began with a gentle late-spring or midsummer morning. The interior of the white Peugeot 404, license plate 210 LZ 67, had already soaked up the sun before the engine purred to life, and the cabin gave off a scent I could still recognize today—a fragrance I found so pleasant. Back then, I had no idea it was just the smell of warm plastic from the car’s interior.
Yes, the scents of the 404 on sunny days became my madeleine de Proust...
What’s more, the whole family was unusually cheerful because those moments of relaxation and leisure were rare. Everyone worked, and no one had an easy job or was well paid. Without the *Trente Glorieuses*, these experiences might never have happened.
Once we crossed the canton’s borders, I felt like I was light-years away from my everyday surroundings, and every kilometer plunged me deeper into *terra incognita*. It was thrilling. Far from my so-called "medium-sized" town, wheat fields, cornfields, and cabbage patches stretched out, punctuated by tall poles connected by long wires and topped with vegetation—like giant clotheslines without laundry, where magical beanstalks might grow to touch the sky. Back then, I was still far from tasting their product, which was simply beer. At the time, there was still a significant local hop production. Fun fact: it wasn’t until 2002 that Anglo-Saxon scientists proved hops and cannabis belong to the same biological family.
After the fields, the landscape took another step up as it rolled past the little boy’s eyes, often glued to the windows. First came modest hills, then a succession of rolling slopes that soon formed an unbroken chain. Their 700 meters in altitude felt like Himalayan peaks to me—impressive, inert giants, a whole new world. Gazing at them, an intense emotion welled up somewhere between my stomach and lungs, nearly taking my breath away. What mysteries, what treasures did these heights hold?
And then there were the cherries on top—the crowning touch that made the scene even more magical: proud, majestic castles perched on the summits like impassive sentinels. Monuments from the past, yet firmly rooted in the present on their rocky spurs.
The little boy’s eyes sparkled—he’d been given a castle for Christmas, complete with battlements, towers, a drawbridge, and fully armed knights. He’d watched and lived *Ivanhoe* on the only French TV channel that existed back then.
Only once did my paternal grandfather join us on one of these trips. A tall, intelligent man with a face that could shift from stern to mischievous, clearly full of humor and charisma. Sadly, his relationship with alcohol had taken a toll on his life and, by extension, those of his loved ones. He had a strong personality—if his boss crossed the line, he wouldn’t hesitate to punch him, which meant he went through a lot of different jobs. Back then, you could quit one job and easily find another. It was quite something to see him in his final stages, hallucinating pink elephants and even drinking perfume when he had nothing else left. The last time I saw him, he’d slipped away from the doctors and nurses while hospitalized in pretty bad shape—at least, I assume his liver was the issue. We were sitting down for a family lunch when the door burst open, and there he stood in his pajamas, eyes twinkling with mischief, clearly pleased with the dramatic entrance. That theatrical moment didn’t spare us from burying him a few months later at the age of 71. One day, my mother told me the family doctor had quietly remarked that it was a shame—with his robust constitution, he could’ve lived to be a hundred. Yes, the family doctor—this was the man who’d come treat you any day, at almost any hour, just for a phone call. It really existed, it’s not a myth!
That day, his wife—my paternal grandmother—was also along for the ride. Everyone agreed that Jeannette was a good woman. She worked as a waitress at *Le Tigre*, the biggest brasserie in town, right in the center. Most customers preferred to be served by her, including local dignitaries and even the mayor. As a kid, I didn’t find her very fun, open, or warm—she seemed a bit stern. Back then, women in their fifties already had the face and build of grandmothers. Same went for men, don’t get me wrong. I had no idea about the struggles she faced because of her husband. I didn’t know that 30 years earlier, she’d had to flee Alsace while pregnant, under threat from Nazi fighter-bombers. I didn’t know she’d had several miscarriages, and that my father—her only surviving child, born prematurely in March 1940 at the other end of France—weighed less than a kilo at birth and was so tiny he could fit in a shoebox. Hard to imagine he’d grow into a strapping man nearly 1.80 meters tall, tipping the scales at 100 kilos.
When you come back from summer camp in early August and ask why she didn’t pick you up with your parents, and they gently tell you she’s "in heaven," you don’t realize she passed away at 54 after suffering greatly from stomach cancer that had spread.
Back to that family outing, that enchanted parenthesis. I even remembered where we’d had lunch when I passed through Dambach-la-Ville decades later. One of those charming, flower-filled towns Alsace produces in abundance—and preserves so well. This one sits high on a hill, and I was a bit stunned on the parking lot because the view stretched far, revealing the Alsace plain below—its fields, villages, hills, and forests. The world seemed so vast and enticing that day, even though I was only glimpsing a tiny fraction of it.
The region was already very touristy, but I wouldn’t notice the downsides until much later. That Sunday noon, I discovered a large restaurant filled with diners. I can still see the enormous piece of meat they served me, decorated with a little wooden skewer topped with a flag. I kept that one for a long time. Those were the golden days of rich, flowing, thick sauces—so flavorful—and the era of the world’s best fries, made on the spot with the best potatoes. To top it off, I was *exceptionally* allowed a small bottle of apple juice, Orangina, or—even better if possible—Sinalco. Yes, Sinalco—like Orangina, but better. A brand that must’ve disappeared in the 70s, but why, and what a shame! Since then, Orangina’s little bubbles have taken the brand to the other side of the planet—it’s now Japanese.
Year after year, I’d eagerly await that ecstatic moment when the most beautiful castle in Alsace, the Haut-Koenigsbourg, appeared in my field of vision. The perfect model, the archetype that blended into the landscape at the height of a child’s dreams.
The trip home always felt like a reality check—less jarring than an alarm clock, but more diffuse and melancholic. From then on, there was only one wish: *When do we leave again?*
Hi there,
Here’s a recap of a trek through the Balkans covering three countries: Albania, Montenegro, and Kosovo. I was with a friend, and we didn’t do the full route (only one day in Kosovo).
It was a wonderful trek through snow-capped mountains and vast flower-filled meadows, meeting incredibly welcoming people.
At the end of the travel journal, I’ll share what I loved and what I liked less.
Day 1: Flight from Paris-Beauvais to Tirana with Wizz Air.
Since Albania isn’t part of Europe when it comes to phone service (at least not yet! :-)), we had to buy a physical SIM card—otherwise, the bill would’ve been sky-high if we’d used our French plan! We got one from Vodafone AL at the airport. You can buy online before leaving with a virtual SIM (e-SIM) for compatible phones, so you don’t have to swap cards. But given the uncertainty about choosing a plan online, we preferred buying one directly at Tirana Airport. Cost: 31 € for 100 GB. That’s way too much—100 GB is overkill. For 40 GB, it’s 27 €, and the plan lasts 21 days. The price difference isn’t huge, and it was cheaper than online. This plan covers all the countries along the Balkan range.
Money tip: All guesthouses and accommodations accept euros. The local currency in Albania is the LEK. In Montenegro, it’s the euro. Bank fees for withdrawing money from an ATM in Albania are pretty steep: 8 € for a withdrawal of 600–700 LEK (about 200 €)! So it’s better to withdraw cash (euros) in France. Oh, and we booked all our accommodations before leaving, but payment is always in cash. Budget around 400–500 € for 9 days of trekking.
Then, a transfer the same day to Shköder, about a 2-hour bus ride. Cost: 10 € per person. Tickets bought directly on the bus. We spent the night in Shköder at a very clean guesthouse, Open Doors B&B. It had a small balcony overlooking the city.
I really liked Shköder, especially its pedestrian street lined with restaurants and lit up at night. It’s a great place to stroll and eat. The food isn’t expensive—two big salads and two beers: 14 € :-) . Fruit prices are also very reasonable: 3 € for a kilo of cherries, compared to 9–10 € in France.
Religions coexist peacefully in these countries—Catholics and Muslims. From our balcony, my friend heard the call to prayer for the first time, coming from one of the city’s mosques.
Day 2: Bus ride to Theth, about 1,100 meters in elevation gain, the starting point for our hike the next day.
The trip took 2 hours and 40 minutes with a break in the middle. The bus was affordable, but taxis also make the trip—though they’re very expensive.
We slept in the heights of Theth at a new guesthouse, "Mountain Vista Shkafi," with an amazing view.
The family was adorable. The husband is a handyman and built almost everything himself. Their baby is named "Sky"—such a cute name, right? :-) Throughout the trek, I found the guesthouses very clean, and the hosts think of everything—no need to bring soap or shampoo; they provide it.
Lunch in Theth at a traditional restaurant on the main road. We tried "Tave Dheu," an Albanian dish with beef, cabbage (very common), and cottage cheese. Delicious but not quite filling enough. For dessert, a honey cake that was perfectly moist—such a treat! Desserts like this are rare; sometimes they serve watermelon instead.
We took a small private bus for 5 € to the "Blue Eye" parking lot, then walked for about 45 minutes to reach a stunning natural site—a kind of lagoon with incredibly blue water. The bravest can swim, but the water’s freezing!
That evening, we dined at "La Montagne Blanche"—excellent! A delightful mix of grilled meats with potatoes and grilled peppers. Some watermelon slices (which I’m not a fan of) and the famous Raki, a brandy served in Turkey and the Balkans! It was my first time drinking brandy "bottoms up." 😉
I’d like to share my family trip to Colombia with kids aged 8. After spending hours browsing the forum and only having two weeks there, we decided to focus on two regions: the Coffee Zone for one week and the Caribbean coast for another. We traveled from August 8 to 23.
Day 1 – First stop: Bogotá
We arrived in Bogotá in the evening on an Air France flight—nothing to complain about, decent service, comfortable, and on time. However, the first night was a miss. We’d booked a hotel near the airport (Abitel Prime) for convenience, but the soundproofing was almost nonexistent; we heard planes as if we were on the runway. Luckily, exhaustion helped us sleep well anyway.
Day 2 – Off to the Coffee Zone and Salento
The next morning, we headed to the airport for a domestic flight to Pereira with LATAM. No issues: punctual and efficient, and in 30 minutes, we landed in Pereira. The landing already set a different mood: lush valleys, endless plantations, and humid air.
We picked up our rental car from Localiza. Unfortunately, the experience wasn’t smooth—the paperwork took forever, and the wait tested our patience. Finally free, we hit the road to Salento, one of Quindío’s gems.
We arrived in the late afternoon and discovered a colorful village bustling with artisan shops and cafés. Our first stroll helped us soak in the atmosphere before dinner at Bambú restaurant—a great surprise with careful cooking and local flavors. We spent the night at Casa Serafín, a charming little hotel, nicely decorated and well-located… but unfortunately very noisy.
Day 3 – The magic of Cocora Valley
This was one of the trip’s highlights. We set off early for Cocora Valley, famous for its giant wax palms, Colombia’s emblem. We chose the 12 km loop recommended by the *Routard*. The landscapes were spectacular: towering palms, rivers, suspension bridges. It felt like walking through a postcard. The weather was perfect.
That evening, we dined at Barnabé restaurant—pleasant setting, decent food, but the bill was a bit steep for what it was. Back to Casa Serafín.
Day 4 – Coffee and panoramic views
The plan was a visit to Finca El Ocaso. For 1.5 hours, we followed a passionate guide who explained the entire coffee process, from harvest to cup. Very educational, accessible for both kids and adults, all in a stunning setting. The tour was in English for us, and we translated for our kids, who aren’t bilingual yet.
In the afternoon, we climbed to Salento’s viewpoint. The valley view was superb. That evening, we ate at Veggie Garden, a simple and pleasant spot that was a nice change from the heavier meals of previous days.
Day 5 – Horseback ride to Santa Rita Waterfall
We booked a horseback ride with Cocora Magic. It was a real success: calm horses, a beautiful trail, mountain and meadow landscapes, and finally the refreshing and wild Santa Rita Waterfall. Without a doubt, one of the best moments of our time in the region. We even got a bonus ride up a 300-meter hill.
We then headed to Filandia, less known than Salento but just as charming. We spent the late afternoon enjoying the pool at MuchoSur Filandia. The hotel is beautiful, in an idyllic setting. However, we also had soundproofing issues and could hear our neighbors.
Day 6 – Rainy detour through Filandia and Manizales
Rain caught up with us in the early morning: torrents of water made it impossible to go out. We stayed at the hotel, reading quietly. By noon, the rain let up: a quick walk in Filandia, a quick lunch, then off to Manizales. We chose to stay at El Otoño hot springs. Great choice: as soon as we arrived, we plunged into the hot pools, perfect after hours on the road.
Day 7 – Hiking and hot springs
In the morning, we hiked the Camino de Super Coco (found somewhat randomly on Google). A pleasant trail with mountain views and a peaceful atmosphere. The afternoon was spent in the hotel’s thermal pools, with a short marked hike down to the river. Dinner on-site at the hot springs’ restaurant. A simple but very relaxing day.
Day 8 – Rain, jacuzzi, and games
We continued to Finca Los Alpes. The rain greeted us again, but this time it turned into an asset: nothing like a steaming jacuzzi with a view of the misty mountains. The kids enjoyed the facilities too: mini-golf, ping-pong, billiards. Dinner and night at the hotel, cozy vibes.
Day 9 – Off to the Caribbean coast
Back to the airport to return the car (still a bit long). Flight to Cartagena with Avianca: punctual and comfortable. Upon arrival, we picked up another car and headed straight to the Hyatt Regency, a modern hotel with a pool. That evening, we dined at the hotel—practical after a travel day.
Day 10 – Colonial Cartagena
We set off to explore Cartagena’s old town. It was enchanting: colorful facades, flowered balconies, colonial charm—just magical. However, the heat was stifling and very humid. Afternoon relaxation by the pool. Dinner at Gestlani, a good restaurant in town.
Day 11 – Road to Barú
A hearty breakfast, then one last swim in the pool before heading to Barú. We checked into Las Islas Hotel. The setting was enchanting: wooden cabins nestled in the vegetation, a private beach, turquoise sea, impeccable service. Dinner at the hotel’s restaurant.
Day 12 – Beach and relaxation
A full beach day in Barú. Warm water, white sand, coconut trees, peace and quiet. A real postcard scene with iguanas and birds.
Day 13 – On to Santa Marta
Another morning at the beach before hitting the road to Santa Marta. The drive was a bit long (6 hours), especially with traffic jams in Barranquilla. It was the longest car ride of the trip. We spent the night at Villa María Tayrona, a beautiful place near the park.
Day 14 – Tayrona Park
We left early for Tayrona Park. We entered through **El Zaino**, parked the car, and set off on a hike to La Piscina (about 2 hours). We stopped along the way at Playa Arenilla, a stunning little beach, to rest. Lunch on-site, a swim, then back by 4 PM. The hike was a bit tiring, but the nature was spectacular: dense jungle, the sound of waves, and even a monkey encounter along the way. Evening and dinner at the hotel.
Day 15 – Last swim and return flight to Bogotá
Our last morning was split between the pool and the beach (the hotel has direct access via a 7-minute trail through vegetation and flowers)—hard to leave this paradise. We drove to Santa Marta’s airport to return the car, then flew back to Bogotá. We spent the night at Casa Dann Carlton, a comfortable hotel. We simply ordered room service, arriving too late to go out.
Day 16 – Bogotá and the end of the trip
Our last day in Colombia. After a good breakfast, we explored La Candelaria. Its cobbled streets and colorful houses were worth the visit. We visited the Botero Museum (free) and the Gold Museum, both fascinating. Back to the airport for our 11:55 PM Air France flight.
That’s a wrap on a varied trip—lush mountains, colorful villages, dream beaches, and tropical jungle.
The pace was pretty relaxed, well-suited for our kids. They absolutely loved the trip to Colombia.
Driving in Colombia was very easy, and we didn’t regret renting a car at all—it gave us more freedom to get around.
If I were to do it again, here’s what I’d change:
- I’d spend less time in the Coffee Zone to stay a bit longer on the Caribbean coast, which was more relaxing for the kids. Or I’d head to Medellín, but I didn’t think the city was very kid-friendly.
- Bogotá is a city that deserves a day’s visit, but it’s not a must-see. Maybe I’d have taken the KLM flight from Cartagena to Amsterdam instead.
Since I didn’t have time to write a proper travel journal, I thought I’d share a few photos of Bologna—a really lovely city I discovered in 2017 while stopping on my way to Tuscany.
Around Piazza Maggiore, which was packed with a stage and chairs for a show, stands the Basilica of San Petronio, massive and Gothic in style, with an unfinished façade (a common sight in Italy).
Another building near the square:
But Bologna’s real charm lies in its porticoes, which were added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2021: 62 km of arcades running along buildings, letting you walk sheltered from the sun or rain. Back in 1288, the city required houses to include private arcades for public use. In the city center, you can stroll under 32 km of porticoes in all sorts of styles—some plain, some ornate—with a strong presence of red tones.
Okay, it wasn’t a total disaster either. Actually, I hesitated before starting this travel journal: is it even worth writing about a holiday that won’t leave an unforgettable memory?
In the end, I went for it (there aren’t many recent travel journals about this destination).
So, read on... or don’t .
Every time we’ve been to the Canary Islands, it’s been by default (basically: where can we go in winter or early spring when we only have a week—so not too far, not too much jet lag, but with decent weather?).
This time, we had two weeks, but the winter plan kept changing: first Thailand (dropped for personal reasons), then Martinique (dropped because of work leave dates that weren’t up to me), and finally, the Canary Islands.
We’ve already been to Tenerife (which we really liked) and Lanzarote (which we liked a little less).
This year, two options: Gran Canaria or one of the smaller islands west of Tenerife (La Palma, or even La Gomera or El Hierro).
We chose Gran Canaria... not sure it was the right call!
Whose fault is it?
Storm Thérèse’s!
Yes, Storm Thérèse followed us on arrival, and its effects lasted quite a while. We had to adapt, cancel visits, change activities...
But even without Thérèse...
Saturday 21/03
Departure from Orly at 6:10 AM with Transavia.
The plane took off on time and landed a little early, tossed around by strong winds before touching down.
It had just rained, but it was (almost) no longer raining.
We quickly picked up our luggage and then the car at the Cicar counter.
We got a Seat Arona instead of the Corsa we’d booked. Well, while the driving position didn’t feel great at first (I got used to it), the engine’s smoothness and power were much appreciated on the island’s winding and sometimes steep roads.
It was only 10 AM, and we couldn’t theoretically check into our accommodation until 3 PM (the owner promised to message me if it was ready earlier).
So, we headed to the (big) *Jardín Botánico Viera y Clavijo*, where we planned to spend a few hours.
We found a huge parking lot... empty.
The passenger in the car in front of us (yes, we weren’t the only ones at the closed gate—there was a car in front and one behind) went to ask for info: it was closed due to the storm 😕.
So, we calmly headed toward Puerto de las Nieves, on the northwest coast of the island.
The plan: go to a restaurant, visit the village, and do some shopping while waiting for early afternoon.
As soon as we got out of the car, it started raining... we took shelter under the awning of a shop, waiting for it to pass. But the rain turned into a downpour, and within minutes, awning or not, Gore-Tex or not, we were soaked!
Since we were already wet, we might as well go to the restaurant—they weren’t far! But here’s the thing: contrary to what Google Maps said, they all opened at 1 PM, not noon!
Back to the car, wading through 5 cm of water because all the village streets were flooded .
The rain let up, we did some shopping, went to eat, and I got a message from the owner saying the accommodation was ready 🙂.
So, off we went to La Suerte, a few kilometers north of Agaete.
The downside of the place, especially with luggage, is that you have to climb several flights of stairs via an outdoor staircase (after parking more or less far away on a steep street) to get there 😛).
Of course, on the way from the car to the apartment, it started pouring again—the bags got soaked!
Enough rain for today! We settled in quietly, and by late afternoon, we could (finally!) go admire the view from the terrace.
Trip Planning
My partner and I are heading to the Canary Islands for a week at the end of September, specifically to Lanzarote. We chose this island over the more crowded ones for its volcanic landscape and the variety of hikes it offers.
I booked everything through Expedia: our hotel stay, car rental, and Ryanair flight tickets departing from Marseille. It was the only way to get a direct flight. To make getting around easier during our stay, I picked a hotel located in the center of the island from the wide selection available. It’s part of the Barceló chain, specifically the "Barceló Teguise Beach Adults Only" in Teguise Beach, which turned out to be an excellent choice.
The Trip
Sunday, September 21 - Monday, September 22
Departure
It’s 2:15 PM, and we’re at the Avignon TGV station. Danielle picked us up earlier due to the weather—thunderstorms and heavy rain all the way to the station. The TGV was on time, and it only took 30 minutes to reach Marseille Saint-Charles. The shuttle to the airport is quick and convenient, right behind the station.
The bus leaves for the airport in the middle of the storm, with flooded roads and cars stuck in some spots.
We get soaked making our way to the terminal. Two hours to wait before the flight. The plane finally takes off at midnight, but just before landing, the pilot announces that the destination airport is closed, and we’re being diverted to Tenerife. Ryanair will re-route us as soon as possible.
We end up waiting 2 hours, and Ryanair kindly gives us a 4 € voucher.
We re-board around 5:15 AM and take off at 6:00 AM. About 45 minutes to reach Lanzarote. After collecting our luggage, we head to the car rental desk. The counter in the terminal is closed, and we’re directed to parking lot P4—it takes us a while to find it.
I’m a bit worried about the rental company’s reaction since the car was supposed to be picked up 7 hours earlier, but it’s not a problem. A woman next to us is furious because she’s in the same situation, and her rental was canceled. Anne-Marie translates for her, but nothing changes.
We pick up a brand-new Toyota Aigo and head to the hotel.
After checking in, we cross the garden, walking alongside the large pool to reach our room.
A lovely first-floor room with a jacuzzi and a sea view.
It’s early, so we head to breakfast—a generously stocked and varied buffet with everything you could want.
Afterward, we drive to Cueva de los Verdes, but it’s packed with people and a long wait. We decide to come back another day.
Next, we visit Mirador Del Rio. This rocky viewpoint at the edge of the island has breathtaking cliffs plunging 500 meters into the ocean. The view is stunning and impressive.
A panoramic bar lets you cool off while enjoying the scenery.
We return to the hotel for a short walk around the neighborhood and enjoy the beautiful pool with its pleasant water temperature. Relaxing by the pool, sun loungers, and all.
In the evening, a very varied buffet at the restaurant. Then early to bed to recover from the sleepless night before.
Tuesday, September 23
After a restful night, we enjoy another varied and hearty breakfast. The terrace seating is very pleasant. We take an inland road leading to Timanfaya National Park.
The road near the park runs alongside vineyards where the vines are surrounded by lava stone walls to protect them from the prevailing winds.
Our first stop is at the visitor center, where the island’s volcanic activity is well-documented. Next, we stop at an area where you can take a short camel ride—two seats are installed on either side of the camel’s hump. This little ride offers a great view of the volcanic landscape from a higher vantage point. A fair price of 11 € per seat for a 20-minute ride.
We then head to the park entrance via the road leading to the parking lot, where only authorized buses can take the winding route inside the park.
It’s crowded, and we wait about 45 minutes with several stops before reaching the parking lot.
We board the bus, and the route offers beautiful views of this volcanic area and its many craters. The journey is very interesting, with several stops for photos.
At the parking lot, a guide shows us how the heat from the rocks beneath the surface can ignite dry vegetation. Water poured into holes in the ground immediately creates geysers and jets of steam.
The building next to the parking lot has a restaurant where meat is cooked using the heat from a well dug into the volcanic rock.
On our way back, we drive to Playa Blanca, a seaside town with a small sandy beach.
Back at the hotel in the late afternoon for dinner.
Wednesday, September 24
We wake up early and have a quick breakfast—few people are around at this hour. Two days ago, we booked a 10:00 AM visit to Los Verdes, lava tunnels created by eruptions and lava flows from the La Corona volcano, which extended all the way to the coast.
When the lava came into contact with the air, it solidified on the surface while continuing to flow underneath. The lava tunnels stretch for 8 kilometers to the volcano, but we only walk one kilometer.
The inside of the tunnel is impressive, with narrow passages and larger chambers.
You can see traces left by the flowing liquid lava—varied colors and twisted shapes.
At the end of the path, a large chamber has been turned into a concert hall with perfect acoustics.
Next, we visit Jameo Del Agua.
This is a continuation of the lava tunnel, developed by Manrique.
There are beautifully designed bar and restaurant areas, as well as an underground lake where you can see small blind white crabs—a protected species in this very pure water.
Higher up, there’s a lovely space with a central pool that could double as a swimming area, surrounded by beautifully designed white pathways that contrast with the blue water.
Further on, you reach a large space inside the lava tunnel, set up as a performance hall with perfect acoustics.
Stairs let you view this beautiful space from above. A gap in the lava landscape reveals the ocean on the horizon.
We head back toward the village of Yé, at the foot of the La Corona volcano.
A 160-meter walk from the church, a path crosses vineyard plots and then climbs to the top of the volcano’s crater in about 30 minutes. It’s the island’s highest volcano.
When you reach the edge of the crater, you see how deep it is, with steep slopes inside forming a large circular opening. The place is breathtaking and awe-inspiring.
We drive back to the hotel via a road that climbs quickly, offering a beautiful view of the island’s northern part.
Thursday, September 25
After another enjoyable and varied breakfast, we head to the center of the island toward the volcano park and stop at a roadside parking lot where a path leads to the Montana Cuervo volcano.
This is a crater that opened on one side. During an eruption, an explosion created a breach in the crater.
Huge blocks of rock were thrown dozens of meters away. The path goes through the breach and descends into the crater, allowing you to walk around it. It’s impressive, and you really feel small and fragile in this environment.
The crater walls, with their different colors, highlight the rock formations. The crater is surrounded by a sea of lava with sharp, jagged rocks.
You can walk around the outside of the crater, but it’s not very interesting. We then head to the west coast, stopping at a spot with a small green lake next to a beautiful black sand beach.
Next, we stop at Salinas de Janubio, a lovely viewpoint overlooking the salt marshes with different water colors. A small shop sells various local products.
We then head to the famous Papagayo beach.
The road ends at a booth where they charge 3 € to continue.
From here, the land is private, and you have to pay to drive down a 3-kilometer rocky dirt road.
Quite a few cars are driving along it, kicking up clouds of dust. The car gets a dusty makeover.
We arrive at a large parking area, with several paths leading to different small beaches.
We go to Papagayo, a small blonde sand beach surrounded by red rocks.
The beach slopes gently into the water, which is a pleasant temperature. The setting is charming and peaceful.
We stay for a while before heading back to the hotel.
Friday, September 26
We start with a visit to the César Manrique Foundation in Tahiche. This was originally one of his homes. The modern construction spans several levels and is integrated into the lava flow, using the gaps to create living spaces. Large windows make the rooms bright and open to the scenery. The place is pleasant, with flower-filled gardens outside. It’s well worth a visit.
Next, we drive to Las Grietas, where a path leads to a narrow crack in the volcanic rock, forming a tight passage where only one person can walk at a time.
The passage isn’t very long, but progress is slow due to the endless selfies being taken here.
We then stop at Casa Del Camposino, a renovated farm that houses several artisan shops.
We taste a local wine recommended by a charming woman and buy two bottles of Lanzarote red wine on her advice.
Now, we head to Tamara beach, a beautiful and wide beach at the foot of high cliffs. There are always great waves here, making it a surfer’s paradise.
On the way back to the hotel, we stop at the cactus garden, César Manrique’s final creation. Designed with a great sense of aesthetics around an old windmill, it features 4,500 varieties of cacti in various shapes, all in a beautiful setting.
We return to the hotel in the late afternoon for the evening.
Saturday, September 27
After another hearty breakfast, we head north to Haria. We stumble upon another of César Manrique’s homes, where he lived for a long time. This house is more traditional than the previous one but still has large, modern, and very pleasant rooms. At the back of the garden is his large studio, where he created his works.
Next, we visit the craft market—this was our original plan. Various stalls offer local items, and it’s very crowded. No room at the café terraces to sit down.
We then return to Famara beach for a long stay. There are always great waves here, much to the surfers’ delight. The water temperature is pleasant, and we enjoy it.
On the way back to the hotel, we stop at a gas station to refill the car, which has been very fuel-efficient. Gas is also much cheaper here than in France—1.16 € per liter of SP95.
We also wash the car, which was very dusty after the long dirt road to Papagayo beach.
At the hotel, we enjoy a farewell cocktail before dinner.
Sunday, September 28
We spend the morning by the hotel pool before checking out at noon. For lunch, we go to a restaurant called "Dona Lola," near the hotel, with a terrace offering a view of the coast. We order tuna carpaccio, which is delicious.
We then head to the airport, just 15 minutes away.
We return the rental car and go to the airport.
A long line to check in our luggage.
The return flight is on time.
A shuttle bus takes us to Saint-Charles station.
We then head to our overnight rental. The boulevard slopes down, making it easier with the suitcases.
The rental is between the old port and the train station.
Once there, we pick up the keys and make one last effort to carry the luggage up to the third floor.
The studio is nice, clean, and simply equipped—perfect for one night.
This travel journal is therefore intended solely for my photos, to present a consistent style.
All the shots were taken with a simple Samsung Galaxy smartphone and with whatever was at hand.
All stays combined, I’ve spent the equivalent of a year at most in Thailand, and I’m no great expert.
However, after many trips, lots of reading on VoyageForum and other sites, and conversations with many locals as well as expats, my view of the country is becoming clearer, though it’s constantly evolving. You never stop discovering and learning.
I guess I wanted to deliver a puzzle, mainly for those who want to get an idea of the country here and for those who feel nostalgic about it.
I don’t know if this minimalist sharing will interest anyone, but it’ll do me good to put it together. After so many months without traveling and then these other long months with VF closed, there’s plenty of material available.
There’ll be a mix of places, periods, and subjects, but it might well be intentional.
I suspect many Thais have dogs because they make excellent guardians for the home. Nothing better to deter burglars or to signal the presence of a snake. You’ll often see Thais tapping the top of their dog’s head, but don’t be fooled: it’s a sign of affection from them. Judging by the dogs’ reactions, they’re used to it.
Thailand is one of the countries on the planet where rabies is still present, so keep that in mind. It’s not just bites that can be dangerous, so don’t let just any dog lick you. Especially on a wound, of course.
Even though dogs often fear humans—this dangerous and unpredictable predator—we still need to stay cautious.
Be careful when walking into alleys because the dog will defend its master’s big yard. Be careful at night, and be careful when they’re in packs.
It sometimes crosses our minds that Thailand isn’t all that made for walking around, and dogs are one of the reasons.
That said, it’s not uncommon to see them chasing bikes or scooters. Cars, though? Much rarer—they’re too big.
It seems Thais prefer to give their dogs freedom by not locking them behind gates. Though sometimes the gate is closed, the little side door is wide open. Oh, and sometimes there’s no gate in front of the property, or it’s been full of holes for years.
You’ll often see dogs sleeping on the roadside, sometimes right on the road. When you approach, they move aside nonchalantly—or not at all. It’s less funny when they suddenly appear from thick vegetation, reminding visitors not to drive too fast. As a result, you’ll notice that dogs with injuries or missing legs aren’t that rare.
Since they believe in reincarnation and respect for all forms of life, they don’t chase dog packs away too much, and they don’t sterilize them enough. When you see a small pack roaming freely in the countryside, you think twice about running into them at the edge of a field.
A darker side of this is that euthanasia isn’t often practiced. Twice, we saw dogs at death’s door in temples, enduring terrible suffering with no one to help. The image (and the smell) of one of them, agonizing and exuding the stench of death, still comes back to me sometimes.
Some of you may have seen the YouTube vlog of a French woman living in Phuket who was given a little pig by her Thai friends. The animal, well-fed, quickly became a happy and enormous beast with its own garden. Yet it didn’t take long for it to fall seriously ill and become incurable. In her video, the French woman described how difficult it was to find a vet willing to perform euthanasia.
You’ll often see bowls by the side of the road. Thais leave food and water there for stray cats and dogs. Overall, they have a big heart for animals.
If you ever pop into a shopping mall, you might see people pushing their small dogs in strollers. It’s not just for fun—these strollers are provided for customers to put their pets in, otherwise you can’t bring them inside. It looks a bit odd when you expect to see a baby.
I’m a newbie to this forum, passionate about wildlife, the landscapes of East Africa, and Tanzania in particular.
This June 2024 trip/safari is our 7th visit to Tanzania and our 5th in the south, which has drawn us more than the north ever since we discovered it in 2015.
In 2024, the entrance fees for the reserves and services have gone up again since our last visit.
I chose to return first to Mikumi Reserve, which was the very first one we visited in the south. Then, we’ll head to Selous (J. Nyerere N. P.) as usual.
Initially, we wanted to spend 2/3 days on Mafia Island at the end of the trip, but it made the total cost too high, so we gave up...
We usually go to Ruaha and Selous, but I wanted to mix it up a bit—also to save some money...
As for the timing, June is a new experience for us. I thought it might be interesting to come just after the lodges reopen... hoping for some great wildlife encounters??
The trip starts in Marseille with our first flight on Ethiopian Airlines to Addis Ababa, then continues to Dar es Salaam, where we’ll finally set foot on Tanzanian soil again.
In Addis... "our" A-350.
.....
After arriving in Dar, we spent one night at a hotel near the airport. The next morning, we headed to the domestic flights terminal, which hasn’t changed in years.
By mid-morning, we boarded a Cessna 208B Caravan with Safari Air Link, heading to the Kikoboga bush airstrip in Mikumi, which we reached 45 minutes later.
Fun fact: the pilot was the same one as on our return flight two years ago.
Welcome on board:
Of course, a driver/guide team from our chosen lodge was waiting for us upon arrival:
I was surprised to see so many aircraft parked there... even twin-engine Embraer Brasilias??
As a fan of vintage planes, I loved it...
On the other hand, the light was incredibly harsh.....!!
Our guides only speak English. We knew that in advance. In the south, it’s very rare to find someone who speaks French. This’ll force us to dig into our high school English memories... from 60 years ago... at least.
It’s noon, and we head toward the lodge.
Near the airstrip, next to the Mikumi rangers’ base, there are quite a few herbivores. They find a bit more peace here—the big cats don’t venture this way...
Our first encounter was a group of Masai giraffes.
Rarer (for us), a savanna monitor lizard basking in the sun right in the middle of the track...??
A large gathering of impalas (mostly males) along with a few blue wildebeest:
Also unusual: a African crowned hornbill taking a dust bath in the middle of the track...!!
When it comes to identifying mammals or birds, I don’t know everything... so I might make mistakes. Please forgive me.
I’m counting on my friend Blesl’s active participation... 😉
Last February, I made a trip using "public transport" from France to southern Senegal via Spain, Morocco, Western Sahara, and Mauritania.
It’s a journey of about 5,000 km, where I took trains (as far as Marrakech), ferries (to cross Gibraltar and then to reach Casamance from Dakar), and mostly buses on the long desert straightaways. I hadn’t planned any stops in advance or booked any hotels, except for the very first train to Spain, which left plenty of room for the unexpected.
Why travel by land and sea? In recent years, flight-free travel has been gaining popularity. On social media, posts explaining how to cross Europe by train as quickly as possible go viral. Traveling without flying—and making sure people know about it—has become a great way to earn a badge of eco-responsibility: an essential totem for anyone wanting to prove both their dedication to the ecological cause and the wisdom of slow travel.
I haven’t flown in years, and this journey to West Africa could easily be filed under "responsible travel." But it wouldn’t be honest to say that: in reality, it wasn’t really my aversion to flying that motivated this long trek. I see overland travel primarily as a way to experience the world’s geography at a grounded, earthly pace—the pace of the locals. Besides, I’ll be flying back, which disqualifies any claim to being a model of sustainability.
So no eco-badge, and no adventurer’s badge either: you won’t find any heroic tales of camel rides in lost lands or mineral train wagons in this account (popular with influencers, the Mauritania iron ore train now attracts tourists from all over the world, turning "the experience" into something you "have to do at least once in your life"). This five-part story, written on the road, has no other ambition than to recount a journey through places and people, and to share the thoughts they inspire in me. As simply and, I hope, as humbly as possible.
I’m posting the episodes here, which you can also find on my blog (with more photos) at the following links:
Episode 1: Spain, from Avignon to Algeciras
Episode 2: Morocco, from Tangier to Tarfaya
Episode 3: Western Sahara, from Tarfaya to Guerguerat
Episode 4: Mauritania, from Guerguerat to Nouakchott
Episode 5: Senegal, from Rosso to Saloulou
To help those who might want to make the same trip, I’ve also put together a summary of the route with recommendations—you can read it at the end of the story and on the blog:
From France to Senegal Without Flying: Route and Itinerary Recommendations
This time, I landed in Monastir on a direct flight from Nice, again with Tunisair. We left about ten minutes late, and the flight lasted around 1 hour 30 minutes. A meal was served on board (cucumber salad with Edam-like cheese, carrots, and two small portions of dishes I couldn’t identify—semolina with peppers, olives, and parsley, two small rolls, a square of processed cheese, and a chocolate cake). It’s worth noting because it’s not common on flights this short.
In February, France and Tunisia were in the same time zone, but now Tunisia is one hour behind. This time difference and the flight duration work perfectly for a short 15-day trip since it takes me a few days to adjust to jet lag.
Luckily, I’d asked my hotel about the taxi fare from the airport because the drivers (there were several around me) didn’t hesitate to quote outrageous prices. The actual fare is 20 dinars, but one asked for 120 dinars. I refused, and another offered 60 dinars. I replied, "That’s too expensive—I’ll take the metro!" (Having tried the Tunis metro, I had no desire to repeat the experience in Monastir with a suitcase!). I started walking toward the metro, and one of the drivers caught up with me, saying, "20 dinars is fine!" I’ll skip the details, but the negotiation took a little while.
When I arrived at the hotel, I told the receptionist someone had asked for 120 dinars. He put his hands to his head and said, "They’re awful!" He remembered our phone call two days earlier when I’d booked (he’s the one who told me I could take the metro).
The Mezri Hotel isn’t expensive. I got a sea-view room for 75 dinars (22 €). (I’d booked a balcony room for 90 dinars but wouldn’t have had time to enjoy it.) It’s well-located but noisy because there’s no double glazing.
The receptionist is a very kind older gentleman. He called a friend whose wife is from Tozeur to find out if I should take a bus or a *louage* tomorrow and what time.
I arrived at the hotel around 7:00 PM and had time to stroll along the corniche to the ribat. Despite some run-down buildings, the seaside seemed livelier and cheerier than Sousse’s.
Monastir is the hometown of former president Bourguiba. I passed his mausoleum by taxi. There are Tunisian flags along the avenue by the sea because every year on April 6—the anniversary of Habib Bourguiba’s death—the president of the Republic visits the Bourguiba Mausoleum in Monastir to pay respects.
The taxi driver mentioned other Tunisian presidents. He complained about rising prices and insecurity, blaming President Kaïs Saïed (I’d already heard that security was better under Ben Ali).
At the end of my stay, I’ll take time to explore Monastir, but tomorrow morning, I’m off to Tozeur—a long bus ride awaits me.
Just back from two weeks in Andalusia, and I wanted to share this experience with you—maybe it’ll help with planning a trip. I’ll start with a quick recap in this post and try to add photos and day-by-day details later (still sorting through them). Hope I don’t bore you too much! 😎
Trip details:
April 20 to May 4, 2019:
7 days on the Costa de la Luz (El Puerto de Santa María) in an Airbnb,
4 days at the junction of the Costa del Sol and Costa Tropical (Salobreña) in an Airbnb,
3 days at Cabo de Gata for some rest at a campsite in Los Escullos.
Two families of four, each with our own car: three 9-year-old boys and a 6-year-old girl. One family was more into city exploration (not us, but we’re working on it), and the other preferred relaxation and nature (that’s us). We speak a little Spanish.
Over 5,000 km, including 2,500 km for the round trip from Carcassonne.
The weather: Variable, but we expected better for this region in late April. The first week on the Costa de la Luz was sometimes chilly (< 20°C), and the second week was warmer but not excessive (< 25°C). At least we didn’t get much rain!
Our budget: Around 2600 € per family:
700 € for accommodations, about 50 € per night,
1000 € for meals and restaurants. We usually spent around 50 € per family at restaurants—we ate out for lunch (except for 2–3 picnics) and cooked at home in the evenings, trying to be back by 6 PM.
600 € for activities: Río Tinto, a flamenco show, visits to the Alhambra, Giralda, and Alcázar, Oasis Park with meals, and a kayaking trip.
300 € for gas and tolls.
Preparation: A few months ahead with bookings for accommodations and tickets for the Alhambra, Giralda, and Alcázar. We used a few travel guides—I like the *Évasion* guide for initial planning. *Géoguide* was okay, but our friends’ *Routard* was the most useful. We also spent three months brushing up on Spanish with Mosalingua (a great spaced-repetition method, max 10 minutes a day). Downloaded Maps.me and the Andalusia map in advance—essential. And we used Tricount to track shared expenses with friends—super handy.
What we did/saw:
3 city visits (Seville, Granada, and Cádiz) + Málaga for our friends (we vetoed Córdoba—too many cities for us).
4 white villages (Vejer de la Frontera, Arcos de la Frontera, Grazalema, Ronda) + Tarifa for our friends.
Beaches (Tarifa and Bolonia, Matalascañas, Nerja, Cabo de Gata).
Nature and fun moments: Doñana National Park, a kayaking trip along the rocky coast near Nerja, and the Wild West/animal park in the Tabernas Desert.
A little culture: Río Tinto mines, the archaeological site of Itálica, Columbus’s caravels, Nerja Cave for us, and the Picasso Museum in Málaga for our friends. Plus, seeing the ham-drying process in the Alpujarras (for our friends).
Our highlights
Nerja and the surrounding villages: The rocky coast was amazing, and we loved the kayaking trip, even if the water was freezing for snorkeling. The beaches are sheltered from the wind, the town is charming, and the cave is incredible.
El Rocío and Doñana National Park. El Rocío has a timeless, almost Wild West vibe—we could’ve stayed a day or two. The quiet and pine scents reminded us of the Landes region.
What we didn’t love as much:
Río Tinto mines: Not super exciting, and the guides’ nonstop chatter kind of ruined the "nature" experience.
Our little regrets (for next time):
Forgetting our passports and missing a day trip to Tangier from Tarifa.
Not having an extra day around Nerja to go snowboarding in the Sierra Nevada—just 1.5 hours away (the kayak guide suggested it).
Not spending at least one night in El Rocío to explore Doñana National Park at dawn.
Antequera with the Guadalhorce reservoir and the Caminito del Rey (but it would’ve meant 2 more hours of driving, and we didn’t have the energy).
My general impressions of Andalusia and Spain
Landscapes: A feeling of extreme concentration of a single activity in some areas—endless olive groves, wind farms on the Costa de la Luz (which I thought were well-integrated), rows of buildings along the Costa del Sol (yikes, glad we didn’t stop there), greenhouses around Almería (a shame to have frozen the coast for so many kilometers), and the massive industrial port of Huelva.
What surprised us compared to France was the lack of small hamlets—villages are clearly defined, and people cluster there, leaving vast landscapes without human presence. In France, you find houses scattered everywhere.
Roads: Relatively few tolls. Sure, rest areas aren’t as nice as in France, but the roads are in good condition, and our wallet was happy. The roads are pretty straight with countless bridges and tunnels—the upside (besides fast travel) is that there aren’t many secondary roads disrupting the scenery.
Tourism and activities: A huge variety and richness. Feels like everyone can find something they like, and 15 days barely scratched the surface. It’s amazing how quickly you go from the coast to snow-capped peaks (Sierra Nevada) or from farmland to desert (Tabernas). And the mix of European and Arabic architecture in the same city is really special.
One small regret: Not interacting more with locals. We didn’t luck out with our Airbnbs. But shopkeepers were great—very patient with my broken Spanish! :-)
Overall, I think our choice to stay on the Costa de la Luz and then near Nerja worked well. We could explore pretty easily (even if we logged a lot of kilometers), and the settings were fantastic. The 3 days of total relaxation at Cabo de Gata were perfect.
If you prefer shorter stops, you could try staying in El Rocío (easy access to Seville and great for an early visit to Doñana National Park) or maybe Grazalema for a hike in the mountains (weather-dependent). And of course, Tarifa for a day trip to Tangier or Gibraltar.
Véhicule : camping-carLorsque la destination de cette année a été choisie, j'avais pensé à 2 options pour l'hébergement et le véhicule :
- le 4x4 avec tentes sur le toit : → Avantages : on peut aller partout, et certainement plus vite. On peut éventuellement dormir quelques nuits en lodge (mais en dehors des parcs sinon c'est hors de prix!)
→ Inconvénients : il faut déplier les tentes tous les soirs, et les replier tous les matins, on risque d'avoir froid car ce sera l'hiver en Namibie et les températures minimales peuvent être très basses!
- le camping-car :
→ Avantages : il fera moins froid qu'en tente, on pourra manger à l'intérieur (très appréciable surtout le matin), les filles auront plus d'espace lors des trajets (une table en particulier). Les toilettes seront à disposition en permanence (très utile à Etosha où on ne peut pas sortir du véhicule, et les toilettes y sont très rares). Dans Etosha, on observera plus facilement les animaux (on peut se déplacer dans le véhicule, manger, observer à l'avant, à l'arrière, sur les côtés)
→ Inconvénients : il faut adapter le parcours, on ne pourra pas aller n'importe où, et on devra emprunter le moins possible de routes D (interdites par le loueur avec ce type de véhicule)
On aurait par contre bien aimé que la climatisation fonctionne, et apprécié le chauffage au petit matin qui lui aussi était HS!
Petite incompréhension également au sujet du barbecue à gaz, qui fonctionnait non pas avec une bouteille spécifique (que j'ai cherchée sans jamais la trouver), mais avec la bouteille disponible dans la cabine et utilisée pour la table de cuisson et le frigo.
Un seul feu fonctionnait sur la plaque de cuisson, le deuxième de temps en temps.
On n'a pas utilisé la douche, car celle des campings était bien mieux, et les toilettes uniquement quand on ne pouvait pas faire autrement. Car cela n'a rien à voir avec les camping-car américains : le réservoir d'eau contient seulement 60 l (à remplir avec une jerrycan), les eaux usées ne sont pas stockées et partent directement sous le véhicule, les rejets des toilettes sont stockés dans une cassette que j'ai vidé tous les 2-3 jours.Conduite/GPS- Etat des routes :
Les routes sont, à l'exception des B (goudronnées), en terre avec pas mal de cailloux. Leur état est variable, on a eu des portions où on pouvait rouler à 100 km/h, mais d'autres où on ne pouvait pas dépasser les 30 km/h. En général, on roule entre 50 et 80 km/h.
Il y a beaucoup de vibrations sur les gravel road, que ce soit sur les C ou les D à cause de la "tôle ondulée", il est souvent préférable de rouler à 70-80km/h pour moins sentir les imperfections de la route. Par moments, je devais m'arrêter car j'avais mal au bras à force de tenir le volant. Dans le camping-car, tout bouge, j'ai malgré tout préservé la vaisselle (juste un verre cassé) ! Par contre, le mobilier a beaucoup souffert, la climatisation/chauffage tenait en appui sur un meuble, tous les jours on récupérait des vis ...
A l'extérieur, c'est le pare-choc avant qui a tenté de se faire la malle, heureusement, j'avais prévu la corde pour l'attacher. Un namibien lors d'un contrôle vétérinaire m'a aidé à le fixer et enlever un carter de protection sous le moteur.
- GPS :
Il n'y a pas beaucoup de routes en Namibie, il est donc difficile de se perdre. Ne possédant pas de GPS, il ne m'a pas semblé indispensable d'investir pour installer la carte Track4Africa (Garmin uniquement). J'ai finalement cherché une application GPS gratuite sans connexion (sans data) pour smartphone. Mon choix s'est porté sur OsmAnd, j'ai même acheté pour 6€ la version "+" pour ne pas être limité à 10 chargements de cartes, tellement j'en suis satisfait.
Très fiable pour les temps de parcours, et très utile pour trouver un supermarché ou une poste (très rare en Namibie) pour envoyer les cartes postales. Je l'ai même utilisé en randonnée à Aus ou Sossusvlei car les chemins étaient tracés sur la carte! Bon ça ne nous a pas empêché de rater un embranchement lors de notre rando à Aus et de se rallonger d'1 ou 2 km :-)).CampingComme précisé dans la partie itinéraire ils ont en grande partie été réservés avant notre départ. Ils ont tous été super bien : très spacieux, hyper propres, tous avec un point d'eau, un coin pour faire du feu ou un braïï c'est-à-dire un barbecue (il a fallu qu'on achète une grille car elle n'était pas toujours présente). Souvent il y avait une douche privative avec eau chaude (solaire ou avec donkey, c'est-à-dire qu'une réserve d'eau est chauffée par un feu de bois), des toilettes et même parfois un évier. La douche était souvent "ouverte" avec un panorama magnifique. Les campings les moins agréables étaient ceux d'Olifantrus et Halali dans Etosha, où on est les uns sur les autres, et c'est assez bruyant et pas très propre.Nourriture / Supermarchés / Restaurants - Dans les villes, il y a souvent un supermarché principalement des Spar. On trouve tout ce dont on a besoin...même du nutella pour le petit dej des filles.
On n'a pas eu de problème pour se ravitailler sur la 1ère partie du parcours (jusqu'à Swakopmund). Ensuite, ça s'est compliqué, car on a évité les villes. On est arrivé à Kamanjab un samedi après 17h, donc tout était fermé, heureusement le dimanche il y avait une petite épicerie ouverte ou finalement on a acheté de la viande congelée sous vide (très bonne et pas chère!) et de l'eau, ce qui nous a permis de tenir jusqu'à Okaukuejo. On avait également une réserve de pâtes qui nous a bien dépanné!
Sinon, à part des chips, c'était difficile de trouver à manger en dehors des "villes".
- Quasiment tous les soirs on a fait griller de la viande sur le braïï. La viande est excellente, notre préférée a été le kudu, mais l'oryx est très bon également.
On arrive au camping, il n’y a qu’une famille de sud-africains. On aperçoit au loin 3 autres zèbres. Nos gentils voisins allument le donkey pour faire chauffer l’eau de la douche.
C’est amusant d’avoir un beau panorama en se douchant. Il n’y a pas de grille sur le barbecue, donc le steak sera cuit dans la poêle 😕. Les filles sont fatiguées, elles sont réveillées depuis 5h30! Elles ont même ont du mal à finir de manger. Elles partent au dodo un peu plus tard que d’habitude mais ne tardent pas à s’endormir.
Come along, I'm taking you to this country where it's so nice to wander and slow down...
I’m inviting you on a stroll through my drawings—a completely subjective, far-from-exhaustive, and totally personal take, since it’s based on my own sketches. I put this travel journal together after returning in late 2024, mostly using felt-tip pens and pencils, with a few collages thrown in. I worked from our personal photos.
And in Kyoto, the Nishiki Market:
A little sneak peek?
Since Albania isn’t part of Europe when it comes to phone service (at least not yet! :-)), we had to buy a physical SIM card—otherwise, the bill would’ve been sky-high if we’d used our French plan! We got one from Vodafone AL at the airport. You can buy online before leaving with a virtual SIM (e-SIM) for compatible phones, so you don’t have to swap cards. But given the uncertainty about choosing a plan online, we preferred buying one directly at Tirana Airport. Cost: 31 € for 100 GB. That’s way too much—100 GB is overkill. For 40 GB, it’s 27 €, and the plan lasts 21 days. The price difference isn’t huge, and it was cheaper than online. This plan covers all the countries along the Balkan range.
Money tip: All guesthouses and accommodations accept euros. The local currency in Albania is the LEK. In Montenegro, it’s the euro. Bank fees for withdrawing money from an ATM in Albania are pretty steep: 8 € for a withdrawal of 600–700 LEK (about 200 €)! So it’s better to withdraw cash (euros) in France. Oh, and we booked all our accommodations before leaving, but payment is always in cash. Budget around 400–500 € for 9 days of trekking.
I really liked Shköder, especially its pedestrian street lined with restaurants and lit up at night. It’s a great place to stroll and eat. The food isn’t expensive—two big salads and two beers: 14 € :-) . Fruit prices are also very reasonable: 3 € for a kilo of cherries, compared to 9–10 € in France.
Religions coexist peacefully in these countries—Catholics and Muslims. From our balcony, my friend heard the call to prayer for the first time, coming from one of the city’s mosques.
We slept in the heights of Theth at a new guesthouse, "Mountain Vista Shkafi," with an amazing view.
But Bologna’s real charm lies in its porticoes, which were added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2021: 62 km of arcades running along buildings, letting you walk sheltered from the sun or rain. Back in 1288, the city required houses to include private arcades for public use. In the city center, you can stroll under 32 km of porticoes in all sorts of styles—some plain, some ornate—with a strong presence of red tones.
