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Jemaflor

Veteran33 Gironde · 1,552 posts

2019-10-29

Vast, diverse, and multifaceted China! During a recent journey across part of this fascinating country, I enthusiastically discovered so many aspects of it. But such variety seems hard to condense into a single story. So, for this travel journal, I’ve focused on two main facets of China. First, a modern and urban China—the sprawling city of Shanghai—and then, in a second part, a China that’s the complete opposite: a rural and more traditional side explored around Yangshuo, where nature is absolutely stunning. Ready for a tour of China, city first, then countryside? Travel stories, descriptions, and impressions are on the program, with plenty of room for photos. Enjoy the journey and happy reading!

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Urban China: Shanghai

As soon as you explore the city, it’s clear: the Chinese wanted to turn Shanghai—once a small fishing village—into a showcase of a modern, powerful, and forward-looking China. The megacity is immense, with around 24 million people bustling through its avenues or stuck in monstrous traffic jams at the foot of some of the world’s tallest skyscrapers. Towers so high they almost touch the sky—well, almost. But this gigantism is just one side of this southern metropolis in the Middle Kingdom.

Away from the towers and business districts, you discover another side of Shanghai—more traditional and, some would say, more human. This is where my travel story begins: on a quiet morning among smiling, relaxed locals. We’re in one of the city’s parks, specifically Fuxing Park.

As everyone knows, the Chinese love practicing Tai Chi Chuan, in groups or solo, so it’s no surprise to see so many here, moving slowly and precisely through their sequences. Here’s a first group, their movements and postures perfectly coordinated.

In another alley, a lone practitioner is deep in concentration, executing his movements with focus. I watch him for a few moments, discreetly and from a distance, so as not to disturb him. To his right, a woman in bright red pants keeps walking, almost as if she’s marching in place. A strange ballet: a series of steps forward, then backward, and so on...

Nearby, this elegant athlete (or artist) performs Tai Chi with a sword—almost like a choreography, her movements resembling a true sword dance.

Further on, the atmosphere is more relaxed and melodic. People are playing music and dancing joyfully, like this woman with her colorful, original hairstyle, all smiles with maracas in hand. You almost want to clap along—her energy is so contagious!

The mood is lighthearted among this group of retirees. Their choir alternates between patriotic hymns and lighter songs. Someone must have told them some French people were watching, because suddenly they start singing an old French tune: « Vive le vent, vive le vent d’hiver... » And the cheerful choir leader invites us to sing along—all together! The result was a fun cacophony: us in French, them in Chinese. But it was so charming!

These Chinese locals definitely passed on their good mood. It’s a joy to see all these retirees—you can imagine them leaving their small apartments to get some fresh air and meet up in the park for these morning activities. But let’s not kid ourselves: while they seem so happy and content with those big smiles, most of them probably didn’t have an easy life. Food shortages, draconian regulations, propaganda, the one-child policy—just to name a few! No, what many endured in their daily lives didn’t always give them reason to smile so brightly. But now, they’re making the most of it, and as I wrote earlier, it’s wonderful to see them like this.

Encouraged by these shared moments, I decide to keep going. Without hesitation, I join a Tai Chi session. I tried my best to follow the movements of my neighbors practicing this traditional exercise, but I’ll admit—it wasn’t easy!

This artist, especially attentive, rewards us with a calligraphed phrase about France. A lover of Chinese calligraphy, he writes these sinograms in ancient characters directly on the ground. Is it writing or drawing? It’s hard to say—the result is so aesthetic. An ephemeral phrase, written in water that slowly fades as it dries, before disappearing entirely.

As we walk, we approach one of the park’s exits—so beautifully flowered. These flowerbeds and their blooms hint at the name of this charming place: Parc des Roses—and it’s even written in French!

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We’re now in the former French Concession of Shanghai, which explains the French inscriptions. The era of foreign concessions in Shanghai is an old story, dating back to the 1840s—a time when China opened its market to international trade. Several nations, including European ones, established trading posts in the city. There were British, American, Japanese, Russian, Italian, German, and French communities. This part of Shanghai was under French administration for a time, starting in 1846.

Some buildings in the area still bear witness to that time, like these ones, with bikes and scooters passing by. The architecture popular at the time blended European influences with the style of Shanghai’s elegant residences: stone arches above entrances, brick walls, and pleasant inner courtyards. Large homes often divided into several apartments today.

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Traditional Chinese architecture shines in all its splendor at this tea house. With pagoda-style roofs—corners turned up toward the sky—refined colors and decorations, and a small corner tower on the right, this Huxinting Pavilion dates back to 1784. It was built in the middle of a pond, offering beautiful reflections. A truly charming spot where you can savor the subtle flavors of Oriental teas in the interior rooms.

Just steps from this picturesque spot, don’t miss the Yuyuan Pavilions and Garden. The whole complex is stunning and gives a glimpse of imperial-era homes and parks from the Ming Dynasty.

Pass through the entrance gate to enter this opulent property, well protected by a high surrounding wall. On one of them, a dragon sculpture sprawled at full length—about 7 meters—is impressive. The symbol represents power but also happiness.

Created in 1577 by the Pan family, wealthy dignitaries of the time, the visit takes you from pavilions with poetic names like the Pavilion of Three Ears to the Pavilion of Spring’s Announcement. Charming!

The interiors are decorated with woodwork from walls to ceilings, where beautiful Asian lanterns hang. But the real charm is outside. These shaded gardens, rustling with bamboo, are adorned with several ponds surrounded by impressive rock formations. A world that recreates (in miniature) the mountain and water landscapes of rural China.

This historic Yuyuan Garden, in the heart of the city, took about 18 years to design and build (pavilions and gardens). Its current appearance is the result of a faithful renovation—much needed, because in 1942, during the so-called Opium War, British officers made it one of their residences. It was partly destroyed by bombings, and later, French troops ransacked it after an attack on their concession.

The site is still under construction—maintenance and renovation—with scaffolding as proof. The garden’s enclosure was set to close for work the day after our visit (for a few weeks, until the end of October 2019). That’s probably why crowds of visitors were rushing in, making the atmosphere a bit less peaceful than this beautiful architectural ensemble might suggest. For the photos, I had to be a bit clever, avoiding the crowds to give an impression of tranquility—this historic place deserves it.

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To be continued in the next post...

Jean http://perso.wanadoo.fr/groenland-disko/yukon-dempster/

JE Jemaflor Veteran ·2019-10-29

Part Two: China: Shanghai

The area around Yu Garden is well worth wandering through—it was actually built for that purpose: to wow visitors with a style that recreates old-world China.

You have to admit, it’s pretty successful with this traditional architecture. Streets where you stroll with your head in the air, admiring the tangle of rooftops, lanterns, and all that gilding.

The other goal of this “open-air museum” style was also to keep tourists around to sell them all kinds of Chinese trinkets, from cheap souvenirs to art objects. You’ll find plenty of food stalls, bars for tea or coffee, and a few art galleries, along with other handicrafts like fans, chopsticks, calligraphy, and paintings…

This area is sometimes called the Market or even the Yu Garden Bazaar, a name that perfectly fits the vibe you get wandering through these alleys and squares.

Our stroll brings us back to our starting point, the beautiful Huxinting Tea House, which we’d already seen when we arrived. But from this angle, between two pavilions, the gleaming skyscraper in the background really stands out—you can see them from everywhere in Shanghai! You’ve got to admit, the Shanghai Tower and its 632 meters can’t exactly go unnoticed!

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Futuristic Shanghai, with its towers defying gravity and its skyline that’s become emblematic of a China resolutely turned toward the future, is our next stop.

From the left bank of the Huangpu River, the postcard view is truly stunning, especially at this late afternoon hour with the sun’s rays perfectly in place. We’re lucky—it’s the ideal time for sightseeing and taking photos. What a panorama! Historic monuments and old stones certainly have their charm, but these futuristic buildings in the business and financial district of Pudong, on the opposite bank, are well worth admiring. From these docks, they’re far enough away that we tiny humans don’t feel too overwhelmed by their sheer size.

Varying in height and especially in architecture, there’s one tower that seems to inspire this artist.

The Oriental Pearl Tower rises 468 meters into the sky, topped with TV transmitters. With its three “oriental pearls”—spheres that shine like rubies—some compare it to a giant cup-and-ball toy. Our talented painter has set up her easel on the promenade and is creating a unique version of this tower. A piece that catches the eye of passersby and my camera lens.

In the skyline photo, on the right, the Shanghai Tower towers over all the other buildings, effortlessly surpassing them with its 128 floors and 632 meters. It’s currently Shanghai’s crowning jewel, with its height and avant-garde spiral architecture (designed by Gensler, inaugurated in Feb. 2015). It has the world’s highest observation deck on the 118th floor, where the view is supposedly exceptional… unless there’s haze, which is often the case in this region. The Shanghai Tower houses offices, hotels… and nine indoor gardens. Its glass surface sparkles brilliantly (and then some!). As for that leaning effect, it’s a distortion caused by my wide-angle lens—you could correct the vertical lines with editing software, but I think it adds a dynamic touch. Though, that’s debatable.

In this closer shot, the top of the Shanghai Tower is out of frame—it’s just that tall! But it’s also to better see the other skyscrapers, like the “Bottle Opener.” A nickname given to the Shanghai World Financial Center (2008). At 474 meters, its arch resembles a giant bottle opener, with a 55-meter-long glass-floored observation deck at the base of the arch. Guaranteed vertigo!

More modest—well, relatively speaking—on the left of the Bottle Opener stands the Jin Mao Tower (383 meters, 1998). The Tower of Prosperity, with its stepped summit. Did you know it has no fewer than 130 elevators to reach its 88 floors? The building houses one of the city’s most prestigious 5-star hotels and restaurants.

And to think that on this Pudong shore, just forty years ago, no skyscrapers stood! The skyline was flat, with simple homes before these towers shot up like mushrooms—or rather, as the locals say, like bamboo! And it’s not over yet…

Captivated by this exceptional panorama, we initially overlook the view of the Huangpu River flowing through Shanghai—one of the last tributaries of the famous Yangtze before it empties into the East China Sea.

Yet this perspective is also worth a look. As you can see, photography enthusiasts are out in force along this wide waterway, where cargo ships, container vessels, and sightseeing boats cross paths. And if you turn around, here’s the view of the docks you can see from the other side.

We’re here on the famous Bund, this massive avenue/promenade along the river. You can admire the exceptional view of the skyline and the river… but there’s still so much more to discover. The Bund is steeped in history—it’s emblematic of Shanghai’s era of foreign concessions. At that time, the district was the nerve center of commerce, trade, and finance in a city where business was booming—well, for some, at least.

Most of the buildings lining the avenue are fascinating examples of the architecture from those particularly prosperous years. However, at this time of day, all the facades are in shadow. It was to be expected—it’s hard to have perfect lighting on both Pudong’s skyline and the Bund’s historic buildings at the same time.

In the center of the photo, the clock tower of one of the Bund’s most important buildings: the Customs House (1927) with its Big Ching. Any resemblance to another famous European Big clock is, of course, no coincidence!

Among the row of facades on the left, you’ll notice the green roof with red trim of the Fairmont Peace Hotel (Art Deco style, 1929), a luxury palace where all the VIPs had to stay when passing through Shanghai. Next to it, the square tower dates from 1942—it’s the headquarters of the Bank of China. Its style is more massive, less elegant, and it’s even overshadowed by its neighbor, which is one meter taller.

And the crowned tower on the left? That’s the Bund Center, at 198 meters tall. Its top reminds me of a crown, but most people compare it to a fruit—of course, you’ve recognized a pineapple!

If the style of these imposing facades, which don’t look Chinese at all, made you doubt the location… rest assured, we’re definitely in China, as the number of red flags flying atop these buildings proves.

Across from the elegant Hong Kong & Shanghai Bank building (1923), you’ll come across an imposing metal sculpture. A powerful bull with horns that would make any bullfighter pale, sporting a thick snout… like a jab at the Americans!

This statue reminds you of New York’s—no surprise, it was made by the same artist, Arturo Di Modica. Now it’s competing with its U.S. counterpart, quite the symbol as these two countries sharpen their strategies to dominate the global economy! One last detail: Shanghai’s charging bull has a patina leaning toward red—a red of anger, determination, or perhaps a nod to the Chinese Communist Party?

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We’ll revisit the famous Bund, but this time with a very dense crowd… in a painting. A beautiful artwork with this elevated perspective and a stunning color palette. This piece is displayed in one of the art galleries at M50.

M50? A cultural site in Shanghai set up in the old warehouses of a disused textile mill. A space dedicated to contemporary art: paintings, sculptures, ceramics, and other art objects… photography is also featured, including a temporary exhibition by Chinese photographer Li Zhi. An interesting series of black-and-white shots. You can imagine I stopped to appreciate this photographic work focused on mountain landscapes in the country’s interior. Frozen panoramas and scenes of daily life in these isolated regions.

Here, in stark contrast, an astonishing icy peak… like an introduction to the karst landforms of the Yangshuo region, where we’ll be heading next (second part of the travel story). Though in Guangxi, in southern China, the climate is warmer—no snow or ice there!

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To be continued in the next post...

Jean http://perso.wanadoo.fr/groenland-disko/yukon-dempster/

JE Jemaflor Veteran ·2019-10-29

Part Three: China: Shanghai

Now we’re changing neighborhoods and vibes, which means crossing part of the city. We pass by buildings in wildly varied styles, take avenues, cross intersections, stop at traffic lights, and drive on elevated ring roads—just follow the red arrow.

In the end, what took the most time wasn’t the distance covered but the wait in Shanghai’s inevitable traffic jams... stuck between scooters, cars, buses, and taxis. And yet, not all of the city’s roughly 24 million residents own a car like we do back home, where it’s almost become the norm!

So we patiently endure, watching the sides of one of the so-called expressways. What do we see? Buildings and more buildings, packed almost side by side, often blocking the horizon.

And on the glass surfaces of the buildings, reflections of... even more high-rise facades! To brighten the view, these red flags add a pop of color with their vivid hue.

A gap between the buildings appears, and the traffic jam stops us right there. It gives us plenty of time to observe this cluster of old Shanghai homes.

A tangle of small houses squeezed between narrow alleys and tiny courtyards. All around, it’s a forest—not of trees, but of towering buildings that loom over the houses, making the neighborhood feel suffocated. A neighborhood from another era, much like many others in this city, destined to disappear... developers are ready. Against traditional housing, high-rises always have the final say, and a way of life is gradually fading away. Sure, the new apartments will be more comfortable and help house more Shanghai residents.

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In the heart of the city, prominently placed on the vast People’s Square near the City Hall and Opera House, stands a building with all-rounded architecture. A true contrast to the surrounding skyscrapers and their towering vertical lines. Horizontality and curves define this grand Shanghai Museum, built in 1996. Some Shanghai locals are apparently skeptical of its architectural lines and jokingly call it "the basket!"

Still, the collections inside are incredibly rich, featuring millennia-old works across many fields of Chinese art: paintings, calligraphy, coins, furniture, ceramics, sculptures, bronzes... all displayed in a pleasant way. The works are well-lit and spaced out, making them stand out beautifully. I’ll just mention three examples from all these art pieces. A bronze wine cup shaped like an ox, dating back to the early 6th century BCE.

Then there’s this exquisite Chinese vase (Yongzheng Reign – A.D. 1723-1735 - Qing) decorated with peaches, a symbol of longevity, and bats, a sign of happiness. Though I know you can’t really see the bats in my photo. The Buddha collection is extensive, like this one carved from wood (Head of Kasyapa - Tang - A.D. 618-907).

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We leave the museum but stay in the company of Buddha statues, including perhaps the most famous one in all of Shanghai. You can admire it at the Jade Buddha Temple. Let’s visit.

The beautiful current building, recently renovated, dates back to 1928. It replaced the old temple that once stood here but was destroyed during the revolt that overthrew the Qing dynasty. In front of this golden facade, you’ll notice the imposing incense burner. Entering the first hall, you’re greeted—if you can call it that—by fierce-looking celestial kings.

There are four of them, each positioned at a cardinal point, acting as protectors of the Buddha placed in the center of the room. A smiling Buddha whose kind face you can see through a glass pane.

From hall to hall, we admire the decor around the Buddhas. Red drapes, traditional lanterns... a refinement from floor to ceiling.

Here, we stay as discreet as possible in front of this scene: a woman praying on her knees before this altar and its golden, gleaming Buddha.

This other statue depicts a Buddha in a reclining position, resting. Offerings, mainly fruits, have been placed right in front of the sculpture.

And the famous Jade Buddha? We did see it—a giant sculpture (1.9 meters) carved from a single piece of high-quality white jade. Its patina gives it a remarkable appearance, enhanced by precious stones like emeralds and agates for decoration. This large Jade Buddha, also meditating in a reclining position, is placed in a dimly lit, almost dark room... and a sign at the entrance warns visitors: no photos allowed! So, we’ll just have to commit the image to memory.

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From a Buddhist temple, a place of reflection, prayer, and meditation, to a temple of another kind—consumption. The contrast might seem a bit bold, but when traveling, sites of all kinds follow one after another. Here we are on Nanjing Road, a street teeming with pedestrians and lined with all sorts of shops, from trinkets to luxury goods.

Nanjing Road is without a doubt Shanghai’s busiest shopping street. Vehicles only cross it at several intersections—the street is entirely pedestrian. A crowd of people fills it all day long: locals, Chinese visitors, and foreign tourists. And what a lineup of vertical signs! Chinese characters dominate, though you’ll notice that international brands are trying to carve out some space. Globalization and uniformity are well underway around the planet.

Even without any specific shopping plans, we stroll through this flow of pedestrians, immersing ourselves in the atmosphere. A few steps forward, then a right turn, a zigzag to the left... window-shopping time. Clothes, shoes, watches, perfumes... and displays of Chinese specialties that catch my eye: here, an assortment of skewers; there, stuffed buns (they look appetizing, and the line of buyers suggests they’re worth it); then a stall of sea cucumbers (which don’t exactly tempt me!).

Hanging by their necks from hooks, a row of ducks that will likely end up roasted, Peking-duck style.

The afternoon draws to a close. We escape the hustle and bustle of Nanjing Road via a side street as dusk darkens the city. Some signs start to light up... time for the stunning spectacle of Shanghai by night.

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To be continued --> next post

Jean http://perso.wanadoo.fr/groenland-disko/yukon-dempster/

JE Jemaflor Veteran ·2019-10-29

Part Four: China: Shanghai

When traveling, you sometimes wonder whether it's worth revisiting a site in the evening that you've already seen during the day—there are so many other places to explore in the city, and then there's the fatigue from the day to consider… In Shanghai, there's no need to hesitate for a second. By night, the Yuyuan District and the view of the skyscrapers from the Bund are must-sees during a stay in Shanghai. The illuminations are truly magical.

Let’s start with one of Shanghai’s most romantic atmospheres. Head to Yuyuan and all its picturesque houses with architecture worthy of imperial China. You can’t wait to see them under the nighttime lights.

After passing through the entrance of this famous market, just as lively in the evening as it is during the day, you reach the central square and, most importantly, the Huxinting Tea House. A real marvel with its thousands of multicolored lights—and that water mirror is stunning, sparkling with a thousand reflections!

From this angle, you notice the balustrades lining a bridge leading to the pagoda-like building. This bridge turns out to be a series of zigzags—nine of them, to be exact. A symbolic number in Chinese culture, noble and glorious during the imperial era. The zigzags of this “Bridge of Nine Turns” are said to protect the dwelling from evil spirits, which, as you may or may not know, can only travel in straight lines. The colors of the lights aren’t fixed—after the green and red version, here’s the blue and green, then purple. Gorgeous!

Add to the lights the sound of the place, bathed in a haunting Chinese melody… you’re completely charmed by the scene.

Next, you wander the surrounding streets, often looking up to admire the profusion of golden light garlands outlining the rooftops and their curved lines.

Oh, here’s a familiar face… with his blue silk tunic from the imperial era. A stylish look for this actor who encourages tourists to take selfies with him. And for such souvenir photos, there’s a line… We know about the Japanese passion for taking pictures, but the Chinese aren’t far behind—and with the crowds everywhere in China, the impression is even stronger. So much so that it’s often hard to take a photo of a façade or landscape without people in the frame, posing (or goofing around) for the photo or the inevitable souvenir selfie!

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The light festival isn’t over yet. Now, we head to the Bund, a highlight of Shanghai’s nighttime magic.

The façades of the Bund’s buildings are all lit up, contrasting with the dark sky. A warm, golden light that highlights the diversity of these structures lining the promenade and the great Huangpu River. But if you observe all the visitors over one or more evenings, you’ll notice they’re really only looking at the illuminated skyline. The skyscrapers of Pudong on the opposite bank steal the show from the Bund’s historic buildings.

You have to admit, the spectacle is truly fantastic. All these tall towers sparkle, flicker, shimmer, and glow with thousands of colored lights. A real fireworks display—but without the firecrackers!

The colors constantly change, giant Chinese characters appear, along with some messages and advertisements. At regular intervals, a huge “I love SH” (Shanghai) appears, sharing the spotlight with the same heartfelt slogan in Chinese.

The spectators’ faces are also lit up… with big smiles of satisfaction. “Wow!”s fly, “Oh my God!”s too—in Chinese, it’s an exclamation I can’t transcribe…

Of course, I didn’t miss the chance to photograph this luminous skyline by night… I’ve got a good series with different colors, more or fewer reflections on the water, and with or without nighttime cruise boats, also lit up…

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The light show continues. First, we drive under the river through a long tunnel with pale neon lights… before emerging on the other side (the right bank), in the heart of Pudong and the Lujiazui business and financial district… in simple terms: we’re now at the foot of the skyscrapers. The “neck-craning observations” sequence begins, though you still have to watch your step (with a few quick glances at the ground). Speaking of steps, a change in levels… tripping and falling is the potential risk of a nighttime visit here. On the other hand, when it comes to the view, you’re always blown away by the sheer scale and the dazzling light show.

Proud of these cutting-edge buildings, the Chinese aren’t shy about boasting about the technological qualities of these skyscrapers, where all risks have been accounted for: no fear of fires, earthquakes, elevator breakdowns, or whatever else… okay! If you stretch it (and exaggerate a bit), you might think the Chinese have found the solution to the mythical zero-risk scenario…

A first vertical view—the photo subject lends itself to it. On the left, the “Bottle Opener”; in the center, the Jin Mao Tower; and on the right, the Shanghai Tower. This lineup makes you think of a podium in a competition between these towers, but here, the tallest isn’t the one in the center—no, it’s the one on the right, number one at 632 meters. How tiny the photographer looks, so small in front of these colossal buildings whose tops seem to disappear into the darkness of the sky.

Escorted by these towering, endless-tiered silhouettes, we find the “Pearl of the Orient,” the TV tower with its three “pearls” currently glowing a brilliant green, like enormous emeralds.

The perspective is impressive with the strong low-angle effect. To capture this angle, imagine me lying flat on my back on the grass, my lens framing these three skyscrapers.

There are some original compositions to capture here—high-impact selfies. Just place a smartphone in photo mode on the ground and tilt your head, positioning your face on the screen between two towers. With three people, it’s even better, with a head between each tower.

You can imagine that such a dazzling display of lights against such a vast urban backdrop comes at a cost—and not a small one. They say it’s around 1 million yuan per evening (about 126,925 €), but this stunning spectacle is offered to the public for the four hours following dusk. In the end, that seems like enough time to enjoy it and soak it all in.

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After the fascinating artificial lights of the evening, in the morning, Shanghai (and we ourselves) wake up under the soft glow of the sun. It’s time to leave Shanghai, the Bund, and the wide Huangpu River, still bustling with a continuous ballet of boats.

As for this tower, it’ll be the last view of Shanghai—it’s not the most imposing, as you’ve guessed, it’s the airport tower. Takeoff for new discoveries is just a matter of minutes away.

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Next part of the story and second chapter of the travel journal (Yangshuo) --> next post

Jean http://perso.wanadoo.fr/groenland-disko/yukon-dempster/

JE Jemaflor Veteran ·2019-10-29

Part Five: China: Yangshuo

A Rural Side of China: Yangshuo

A little over two hours of flight and some 1,300 kilometers flown southward—our plane begins its descent toward Guilin Airport, the main city in China’s Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region. The view through the porthole gradually becomes less hazy, revealing the landscape: hills and cultivated lands crisscrossed by waterways. The tone is set—we’re about to land in a rural heartland of China.

Once gently touching down on the tarmac, the sun welcomes us with a blazing sky. A few minutes later, it takes its bow, disappearing below the horizon—we’ll have to wait until the next morning to discover the landscapes of this region, renowned for its dramatic relief. Another hour’s drive through the pitch-black night to reach our destination, the town of Yangshuo. A city of just around fifty thousand inhabitants—almost a small town compared to the image of such a populous China.

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I particularly love the first glimpse of a place you arrive at late, having only caught hints of its appearance under faint nighttime lights. Up early, I pull back the curtain in my room: the view stretches along Yangshuo’s main street, bathed in a soft morning glow at this hour. Here, no skyscrapers like in Shanghai—just reasonably tall buildings. In this place, nature truly dominates: a beautiful setting of lush green slopes surrounds the town. Breakfast is quickly devoured—a classic Western-style breakfast, I must admit, as I struggle with Chinese breakfasts featuring bowls of noodles or rice! Well, that’s another topic.

Eager to explore more of this captivating environment, we head outside. Just a few dozen meters below flows the beautiful Li River.

What a landscape—utterly enchanting! This panorama exudes the feel of a Chinese painting, with a light mist veiling the background of those peculiar "sugar loaf" peaks. The atmosphere is soothing—a calm morning and a long, tranquil river turned into a perfect mirror at this hour. We stand in awe, mouths agape.

Most of the boats are still neatly lined up along the banks, barely a ripple disturbing the splendid reflections. To bring a little life to this scene, there are those two boats and the fishermen busy teasing the fish with lines and nets. A little further on, a swimmer is doing laps—one imagines they’ve swapped their usual tai chi movements for a morning swim.

After this moment of contemplation, we return to West Street (Xi Jie), where traffic is starting to pick up: a few cars and the inevitable bicycles—but above all, as almost everywhere in China, it’s now mainly electric scooters that locals use to get around. These scooters, all electric as required by law, at least don’t rattle noisily as they ride.

Scooters seating one, two, or even three people—to transport the whole family. Apparently, head protection with helmets isn’t a priority, but many of these vehicles are equipped with canopies. Here, people protect themselves from the sun and, especially, the rain. Imagine, in these subtropical regions of southern China, showers are frequent—very frequent, in fact. We’re told there are around 300 rainy days a year. This morning, a generous sun is shining, and it will accompany us throughout the two days spent in the region—we’re savoring our luck.

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Past the bridge spanning the Li River, the road winds through the valley, weaving between the hills. After a few kilometers, we leave the pavement to venture onto a narrow path crossing a cultivated valley. The surrounding landscape is breathtakingly beautiful. The light makes the green hues glow, and in the distance, karst peaks encircle these fertile expanses like protective ramparts—but ramparts with towering silhouettes shaped by Mother Nature.

This relief is the result of thousands of years of erosion: a sea once covered these lands, and after it receded, the slow work of erosion took over. Water and wind have sculpted this unique landscape over time.

As for local crops, you won’t be surprised to hear that rice paddies dominate. With the humid and warm local climate, rice thrives in these well-irrigated lands, crisscrossed by a dense network of canals. Two harvests are produced annually in this region. Walking along the paths between the rice paddies, we pass from newly planted fields with young shoots, feet in the water, freshly transplanted, to other fields with more mature rice ears.

Further on, a buffalo cow is happily grazing on the lush grasses of a meadow. Beside her, her calf accompanies her. By the way, do you know what a buffalo calf is called? A... buffalump! Here, buffaloes aren’t raised for their meat but for their strength. Rice cultivation isn’t fully mechanized yet, so these domestic buffaloes are essential for plowing the fields and pulling carts.

Exploring this valley, we discover many other crops: lotus, soy, coriander, peanuts, and others whose names I’ve forgotten— Oh yes! There are also taro fields. No relation to the card game—taro is a root highly valued for its nutritional benefits, a tuber with a slightly floury texture similar to sweet potato. These are the roots this farmer is harvesting.

In the Chinese countryside, it’s mostly women you see working in the fields. No, it’s not that the husbands are taking it easy—quite the opposite. It’s important to know that middle-aged men often migrate to cities, where work in construction and factories is much more lucrative than agricultural labor. Many couples are thus separated—the men only returning home rarely, as transportation costs are high for their modest salaries. The Chinese New Year period is usually the time for families to reunite, if only for a few short days of vacation.

At the end of this path, at the foot of a towering limestone peak, we reach a few houses. No, the hamlet isn’t abandoned, despite the state of some buildings suggesting otherwise. A few banana trees add a tropical touch to the place, and my (nosy) gaze spots rice grains drying in the sun on the packed-earth floor of an inner courtyard. And at number "14," what’s drying? Sorghum, hanging from the eaves.

Another hamlet, another house—this one in perfect condition, well-kept, simple but charming. Visiting it is part of our countryside stroll. The friendly septuagenarian couple living here is used to welcoming visitors to share their daily life—and one imagines this helps them "put a little butter in the spinach," or rather "spices in the rice," a more fitting expression for Chinese cuisine.

The welcoming peasant woman, whose permanent smile seems to have etched wrinkles into her face, gives us a demonstration. She skillfully operates a stone mill grinding soybeans, and a thick, whitish liquid flows into a container. All that’s left now is to make tofu. That’s not all—now our kind farmer dons a tunic made of rice straw, we’re told. A sort of local raincoat to protect against showers while working in the fields.

The inside of the house is clean but extremely simple. At the back of the room stands the inevitable television. On the walls, a few family photos, and prominently displayed, the presidential couple waving against a Shanghai skyline backdrop. The charming old lady now leads us into her kitchen—a sink and a stove, simple and ordinary, one might say. However, on the opposite side of the room, we spot rather surprising furniture. Two black-lacquered coffins are placed there, waiting, just in case... It’s a custom in rural China—when you reach an advanced age, you’re ready!

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To be continued – next post -->

Jean http://perso.wanadoo.fr/groenland-disko/yukon-dempster/

JE Jemaflor Veteran ·2019-10-29

Part Six: China – Yangshuo

Returning to the surrounding rice fields, we’re once again amazed by this landscape with its striking and truly photogenic relief—it’s hard to resist capturing it from every angle.

This is probably the most common tree in the region (along with bamboo!), found in the countryside and even in the city—a sweet osmanthus. It has beautiful green foliage, but the flowering season hadn’t arrived yet—too bad for us. When in bloom, the tree is covered in yellow, pink, or white flowers, and they give off a sweet fragrance. That scent is used to flavor drinks like traditional tea.

From yellow to red, the ripening "dragon fruits" grown in this patch of land shift in color. These fruits are also called "pitaya." As for the flesh, it’s white with dark seeds. Out of habit, I’d compare the texture and tiny seeds to a kiwi… but not quite, since the flavor seemed blander to me.

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Night had fallen, and we were back "in town" in Yangshuo, where we discovered other local fruits.

On this street-side display, these are jackfruits. They’re prepared and ready to be tasted… though I’m not sure "tasting" is the right word, since these fruits give off some pretty unappetizing smells. The odor really didn’t make me want to learn more about their flavor.

A little further on, the fruit and vegetable market is mobile, with women carrying their goods the old-fashioned way—on a shoulder pole… tough on the shoulders, we can imagine!

But what a crowd tonight on Xijie Street! We’re shuffling in places, bumping into each other on the sidewalks, trying to move through the throng. "It’s like this every night," we’re told. Indeed, the Yangshuo and Guilin region is a top destination for Chinese and Asian tourists, thanks to the stunning landscape of this basin where the Li River flows. The numbers are even more impressive: around 20 million visitors flock here annually, and there are no fewer than 1,000 hotels and other accommodations to host them.

For now, we’re blending in with the crowd, strolling through the city center. It’s a festive evening atmosphere, like August 15th back home. Crowds and cacophony. Picture the mix of scooters and cars, the bursts of laughter from tourists wandering around, and the vendors’ announcements. Every merchant has a microphone and speakers—essential if they want to be heard over the din.

This guy on the right is chopping chili peppers, while the others on the left are kneading and pounding a thick paste—looks like nougat—and they’re doing it in rhythm, with music. Boom, boom!

On the right, we hear loud applause coming from inside a room… a show in progress? Yes, a sports event—a basketball game that seems to be exciting some noisy spectators.

Even though basketball isn’t the most popular sport in China, we’re in the middle of the 2019 FIBA Basketball World Cup, which is taking place right here in China. The Chinese team didn’t exactly shine in this international competition, but the French team held their own, finishing 3rd—well done!

A hundred meters further on, the area becomes completely pedestrian. Bars, restaurants, and fast food spots line the street, and you can see globalization has reached even this part of rural China, with several international burger chains… Stalls selling souvenirs and trinkets are everywhere. You really can find a bit of everything here—look, I see one, then a second stand specializing in ear hygiene… meticulous ear cleaning offered on the right sidewalk, and an identical one just across on the left. Is the right stand only for right ears, and the left one for left ears?

The dark night is lit up by a true festival of lights and colors: signs, ads, neon, and lanterns… here, it glows, sparkles, and shines with thousands of lights. No doubt about it—when it comes to creating a festive atmosphere, they don’t skimp on electricity! One last beautiful scene with these luminous reflections in the water. Stunning with that little bridge.

The next morning… Another day, and a new quiet morning along the Li River. As you’ve gathered, before heading out, we couldn’t resist admiring this exceptional panorama once more… and capturing the memory with a few more photos.

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A little later in the morning, we’re 8 kilometers from Yangshuo’s center, specifically in Fuli. A small town with two very different sides: a new city and an old quarter that evokes China of the past. Here, in this historic area, time seems to have stopped in the Mao era. His portrait, forever youthful, holds a prominent place in this picturesque pharmacy.

Several streets are decorated with red flags bearing five stars. Everything seems ready for the upcoming National Day on October 1st—a celebration marking the 70th anniversary of the founding of the People’s Republic of China in 2019, a historic event.

Strolling down this street, we discover scenes of traditional life in Fuli. In a doorway, an elderly woman is cutting bamboo shoots. She kindly agrees to be photographed, but her smile seems a little shy… I won’t insist and thank her. Nearby, on a clothesline, strange (to us) filaments are drying… they’re actually very, very long Chinese noodles.

This thousand-year-old town is famous for its artists, painters, and fan makers. A long tradition and artistic know-how that this man is showcasing.

A fabric cut into a semicircle, a bit of glue, sticks arranged just right in the shape of a fan. After drying, here’s the result. Now the artist can display their talent by painting a scene of the region’s landscapes: limestone peaks in the background, the course of a river—like the Li, for example…

At the end of the street, it’s a dead end… well, sort of. No way out by land, but there’s a dock and a pier, and most importantly, access to the famous Li River. That was the goal of our detour to Fuli—this morning, we have a highlight of the trip in the region: a bamboo raft ride on the Li River.

A well-dressed man paces the dock—like us, he’s waiting for a raft for the river ride. The sun is shining again today, lucky us—the scenery will be even more beautiful. We notice our Chinese pedestrian shielding himself from the hot rays with a pretty pink parasol. In these parts, the accessory is always handy—one day to protect from the sun, and most often to stay dry in case of showers.

By the dock, a group of Chinese women in their finest floral dresses are ready to board a bamboo raft. Their matching outfits stand out with their floral patterns. Smiling broadly, they seem proud to be asked for permission to take their photo. When asked, they tell us their beautiful traditional dresses reflect their belonging to the Puyi ethnic group.

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To be continued – next post -->

Jean http://perso.wanadoo.fr/groenland-disko/yukon-dempster/

JE Jemaflor Veteran ·2019-10-29

Part Seven: China: Yangshuo

Here we are at last! Comfortably seated on a simple bamboo raft—well, actually made of PVC bamboo, which is easier to manufacture than natural thick stalks! But that’s just a detail because what really matters is the visual spectacle unfolding before our eyes. A breathtaking and stunning panorama drifts by at a slow pace. Once again, we marvel at this landscape with its succession of "sugar loaves" that, in some places, take on the shape of pyramids or blunted saw teeth. The Chinese sometimes call them "dragon’s teeth," a more fitting description than my saw-tooth comparison. Most of these karst peaks are entirely covered in vegetation, giving them a lush, green allure.

To our right, the sound of an engine catches our attention. A sleek boat overtakes us, propelled at a good speed by a motor mounted on a long metal pole—so, neither bamboo nor PVC.

Speaking of bamboo, let’s talk about it. Gigantic specimens line certain stretches of the river. Shaped like fans (typical of the region!), these tall foliage formations almost create a rustling guard of honor in the wind.

Other details bring this landscape to life. Over there on the right, a few kids are enjoying the river’s waters, splashing around playfully!

As for this buffalo with its impressive horns, it’s also taking a dip between agricultural work sessions. Observing it closely, you’ll notice its rope is tangled around its horns, limiting its freedom. Along the towpath, on the opposite bank, a farmer leads a buffalo accompanied by its calf—yes, I’ve mentioned that before!

But what are those women with bent silhouettes doing, persistently rummaging through the riverbank’s mud and pebbles? They’re likely searching for shellfish or snails, a culinary specialty of the region.

As we continue down the river, we remain constantly captivated and enchanted by these landscapes. No wonder such scenery has inspired poets and painters—here, every viewpoint feels like a masterpiece. The Chinese authorities have also paid tribute to these unique panoramas. A view of the Li River and its mountains was chosen to illustrate the back of a 20 yuan banknote, while the front features the unavoidable Great Helmsman, Mao Zedong himself!

How we’d love to extend this ride, stopping time to endlessly admire these mesmerizing landscapes... For that, the contemplative relies on memory, and the photographer on... their memory card. Capturing the moment to remember it later, to revisit it, or to share it—you’ve guessed it, I didn’t hold back from photographing these landscapes over and over again.

Preserving the memory of these places by drawing them is what I did with this Chinese ink sketch (perfectly fitting!) and a few watercolor touches. The sugar loaves, the river, a fisherman... with a springtime feel, adding blooming plum trees. A simple reproduction inspired by some local artists’ works.

This morning, the river flows perfectly calm, the water level ideal for navigation and our discovery ride. But it’s not always like this—during heavy rains and floods, the Li’s level can rise significantly, causing floods and damage. That was the case in spring 2017... it’s hard to imagine the situation back then, with the river rising about twenty meters—what a nightmare!

A pure white egret takes flight from the riverbank’s pebbles—did we disturb it? Maybe, though we passed at a distance.

Here, it’s not the white-plumed birds that steal the show but rather the black ones—I’m talking about cormorants. An ancient tradition links them to fishermen who use them to catch fish in rivers and lakes. The technique proves more effective than line fishing.

This fisherman’s trained cormorant just dove to catch a fish. Okay, the photo’s a bit blurry—the distance and the raft’s movement didn’t help. But it captures this fishing method. Look closely at the cormorant; you can see a string around its neck—that detail matters. Here’s why:

Hungry cormorants are eager to catch fish and will hunt relentlessly to fill their stomachs. But the clever (and somewhat barbaric) fishermen have a trick: they place a ring around the bird’s neck. The caught fish can’t be swallowed, so it gets stuck in the cormorant’s throat. The fisherman just has to grab it, and—voilà!—the fish lands in his basket. Pretty clever, right? The hardworking cormorants are regularly rewarded—every job deserves pay. The ring is loosened, and a fish is quickly swallowed. If I understood correctly, whether as a joke or truth, the "union rate" is one fish for the bird every six catches. Some clever cormorants are so used to this rhythm that they’ve internalized it and stop fishing after the sixth catch, waiting for their share. Not so dumb, these Li River cormorants! This technique is said to be used less and less. To preserve the memory, an elderly fisherman stations himself near the embarkation dock. With his two cormorants, he poses for visitors.

As we can see, he takes good care of his birds, regularly sprinkling them to keep them cool. Oh, the old man is wearing a rice-straw tunic on his back—a protection we’d previously noticed on our countryside farmer.

The Li is rich in fish, and you can find them for sale on stalls, like here on Fuli’s quay.

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Back in Yangshuo, a fish dish was on our menu. We were greeted warmly and with smiles as we entered the dining room.

In the center, the fish dish is one of the local specialties: "Beer Fish." To accompany it, as usual in China, several small dishes of vegetables, rice, potatoes, eggs... and to serve yourself, you just spin the center of the table! How did the fish taste? Pleasant, though I’ll admit I didn’t really detect the beer’s flavor. Then again, as the photo shows, with the drinks we’d had at the start of the meal—local aperitif (cooked wine) and a small glass of rice alcohol—the mix was bound to overwhelm our taste buds.

-- Story to be continued—next post -->

Jean http://perso.wanadoo.fr/groenland-disko/yukon-dempster/

JE Jemaflor Veteran ·2019-10-29

Eighth and final part: China: Yangshuo

You can’t leave the Yangshuo area without seeing the stunning "Sounds and Lights" show performed every evening in this one-of-a-kind setting of the Li River mountains. A grand spectacle, just like the Chinese know how to pull off. "Impressions Liu Sanjie" features no fewer than 600 performers in front of around 3,000 spectators per show.

A wonderful festival of colors, lights, laser beams, music, and costumes… the scenes, songs, and dances evoke the local life of yesteryear and the fame of a legendary singer who became celebrated thanks to her exceptional voice. The storyline also includes a heartbreaking love story… The stage—a water plane of the Li River with illuminated mountains in the background—is absolutely stunning and spans distances of a kilometer or more!

The show’s production took nearly five years under the direction of Chinese filmmaker Zhang Yimou, renowned, among other things, for the opening ceremony of the 2008 Beijing Summer Olympics (he’s also mentioned for the 2022 Winter Olympics shows, which will take place in the mountains around Beijing). For photography, it’s a challenge, especially without a tripod and with all those spectators. Night shots handheld aren’t easy to pull off! These few photos give just a (tiny) glimpse of this unforgettable, vibrant performance.

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Our last day in the region, the day of departure, we head to Guilin train station.

Gradually, as we move away from the mountains, the mist softens the landscape, and the lush green slopes take on an almost bluish hue.

But there’s no room for nostalgia—we loved the change of scenery, the beauty, and the contrasts of such a diverse China.

Jean SM – Shanghai/Yangshuo – September 2019.

Jean http://perso.wanadoo.fr/groenland-disko/yukon-dempster/

JianadaRen Globetrotter ·2019-10-29

Unfortunately, Yangshuo is no longer the peaceful village it was over 10 years ago. The construction of a new highway and the arrival of the high-speed train have significantly increased the number of visitors, leading to the construction of new hotels to accommodate them—and even a McDonald’s. The sharp rise in tourists has also worn out the patience of locals. It’s understandable that a farmer working in his field might get exasperated when tourists come to take his photo or snap a picture of his water buffalo. He, too, wants to cash in on the tourism boom and now charges for photos. For a taste of traditional rural China, you’ll need to head west or to some of the more remote villages in Guizhou (not too far from Yangshuo).

Diamina Globetrotter ·2019-10-30

Hi Jean,

Wow!!! What an incredible amount of work you’ve done without any fuss!!!

I’m not at all drawn to China, but I’m curious to discover some of its aspects through reports or travel journals. So, thank you so much for all the time you’ve spent on this. Since I’m also not a fan of cities, it’s the karst region that caught my attention... so many similarities with Vietnam and Thailand.... Those landscapes are truly stunning... But I imagine it’s hot and humid there. So, I’m all the happier to enjoy them from the comfort of my armchair.

Thanks a lot.

Nord Chili, NOA, Sud Lipez, La Paz août 2012 https://voyageforum.com/forum/mois_dans_andes_peripeties_en_altitude_D5526293/ Apologie du southwest en hiver https://voyageforum.com/forum/apologie_sud-ouest_etats-unis_en_hiver_D5851267/ Impressions d'Afrique et de Namibie

Obeoandpai Globetrotter ·2019-10-30

Hello, Stunning city-countryside painting!

The staging of the show took nearly five years under the direction of Chinese filmmaker Zhang Yimou, renowned, among other things, for his opening ceremony of the 2008 Beijing Summer Olympics (he’s also mentioned for the 2022 Winter Olympics shows, which will also take place in the mountains around Beijing).

Zhang Yimou*—with this kind of reference, the show can only be perfect. * The Chinese equivalent of a Scorsese or a Coppola. He never hesitates, despite his fame, to constantly explore new styles. His latest work, "Shadow, Aka Ying," is a pure marvel of aesthetics.

Thanks for this beautiful share!

Best regards,

Mon YouTube https://www.youtube.com/user/voyageurasie/videos?view_as=subscriber

Alexval2 Veteran ·2019-10-30

A perfect travel journal as always! We’re loving it! Thanks for sharing.

Masterpo Globetrotter ·2019-10-30

Wide-angle lenses don’t mix well with flash ;P

Masterpo Globetrotter ·2019-10-30

Given the number of photos and the quality of the text, bravo—I know how much work that represents, and thank you, of course.

It brought back memories of two of my trips to China: Guilin over thirty years ago and Shanghai almost twenty years ago now.

Among the row of facades in the left-hand photo, you can spot the green roof with red trim of the Fairmont Peace Hotel (1929 Art Deco style), a luxury palace where all the prominent figures had to stay when passing through Shanghai.

Back in 2000, the internet was still in its early days, and I’d preferred to book my nights in Shanghai and Hangzhou through the Maison de la Chine. The person at the MdlC had recommended—despite the price not being insignificant—booking at the Peace Hotel. I’d compromised (actually split it three ways) by only staying there for 2 days, spending the other 4 in a less prestigious hotel. The night cost 800 FF at the time, but I didn’t regret it for a single second. This hotel is fabulous, an Art Deco gem, perfectly located on the Bund, and I’d recommend it without hesitation—whether you’re a VIP or not... And I won’t even mention the breakfast on the seventh floor, with a view of the Huangpu and Pudong.

Vilabel Regular ·2019-10-30

thanks! what a beautiful travel journal!! gorgeous.

JE Jemaflor Veteran ·2019-10-30

Thanks, Louis, for your message and this account. It’s true that we’re seeing more and more tourists in many places... you just have to deal with it by trying to avoid peak times (holidays, festivals, etc.). Still, the Gulin and Yangshuo region offers visitors such stunning landscapes that it’d be a shame not to enjoy them... even with crowds of tourists!

Thanks for the tip about visiting another rural area like Guizhou.

Jean http://perso.wanadoo.fr/groenland-disko/yukon-dempster/

Xrctn Veteran ·2019-10-30

I’m joining in with all the compliments and thanks for this beautifully illustrated and enjoyable travel journal. It’s a real little gem that sparks wanderlust and gets the travel itch going... especially now that they’ve announced a direct flight from Perth to Shanghai!!!

https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=6884794;a=6884794

JE Jemaflor Veteran ·2019-11-01

Hey Jean,

Wow!!! That’s an incredible amount of work done so quietly!

I’m not really drawn to China, but I’m curious to discover different sides of it through reports or travel journals. So thank you *so* much for all the time you’ve put into this. Since I’m not really into cities, it’s the karst region that caught my eye... so many similarities with Vietnam and Thailand. Those landscapes are truly stunning! But I guess it’s hot and humid there.🤪 So, I’m even happier to enjoy them from the comfort of my armchair.

Thanks a lot.

Thanks for your message,

Yeah, putting together a travel story can feel a bit long at times... you know that with your own fascinating travel journals on VF... but as long as you enjoy "reliving" the trip and sharing it... It *is* pretty hot and humid in the gorgeous Yangshuo region... and September, when we visited, isn’t even the most stifling or rainy time of year. It’s true that you find this kind of landscape in other Asian countries too... and also, for example, in the Caribbean in Cuba with the mogotes of Viñales. As for the cities, they’re especially impressive because of their sheer size—both in sprawl and height—with all those high-rise buildings, not to mention the population density. But China is so diverse that there are plenty of fascinating regions for nature lovers, landscape enthusiasts, and desert explorers... which seems to be more your thing.

Jean http://perso.wanadoo.fr/groenland-disko/yukon-dempster/

JE Jemaflor Veteran ·2019-11-01

Thanks for the visit and for highlighting the work of director Zhang Yimou. The show in Yangshuo is spectacular and makes perfect use of the stunning natural scenery of the karst landscape around the Li River. Great to include the link to the presentation of this talented filmmaker’s latest work. Best regards.

Jean http://perso.wanadoo.fr/groenland-disko/yukon-dempster/

JE Jemaflor Veteran ·2019-11-01

Thanks for the kind comment!

Best regards.

Jean http://perso.wanadoo.fr/groenland-disko/yukon-dempster/

JE Jemaflor Veteran ·2019-11-01

Thanks for your interesting account of those interiors I didn’t get to see… there’s so much to take in in this huge city (and country). The architecture of those old buildings gives a great perspective, but many of the interiors are definitely worth seeing and admiring too…

Best wishes.

Jean http://perso.wanadoo.fr/groenland-disko/yukon-dempster/

JE Jemaflor Veteran ·2019-11-01

Wide-angle lenses don’t play nice with flash 😛

We know the "Master’s" eye and the photographer whose talent we’ve often admired, especially in VF’s photo contests... Here, you noticed that dark spot at the bottom of the image! More than the wide-angle, I think it’s the lens hood’s effect... but what’s the point of keeping it on when taking night photos, as if the DSLR wasn’t bulky enough already... I cropped the bottom of the photo a bit, but too much to leave the basket’s base visible.

Jean http://perso.wanadoo.fr/groenland-disko/yukon-dempster/

Diamina Globetrotter ·2019-11-01

Hi Jean,

et aussi par exemple dans les Caraïbes à Cuba avec les mogotes de Vinales.

Wow, I had no idea there were landscapes like that in Cuba! I went there in 1984 as a teenager on a package tour with my family, but the tour operator didn’t show us that part of the island. Thanks for introducing me to it!

tu connais cela avec tes intéressants carnets publiés sur VF..

Thank you!

Mais la Chine est si diverse qu'il y a beaucoup de régions fascinantes pour les amoureux de la nature, des paysages et des déserts.. ce que tu sembles préférer.

I saw Veileen’s travel journal about the desert area and the dunes... and the yellow rocks... It’s really beautiful, and all the visits are very structured...

Still, Wulingyuan National Park is so appealing, as is Huanglong National Park.

But then, there are so many other places that attract me too... So for now, China and I...?????

On the other hand, one of your trips I loved was the sled rides in the Arctic region or Nunavut... That’s my dream—to do a journey like that. The hardest part is convincing my husband... Maybe one day.

JE Jemaflor Veteran ·2019-11-01

I’m joining the many compliments and thanks for this beautifully illustrated and enjoyable travel journal. A real little gem that sparks wanderlust and gets the travel bug going... especially with the announcement of a direct Perth-Shanghai flight!!!

Hi Xavier,

Thanks for your comment... you were right to call it a "little" gem! With the direct flight from your far-off (for me) hometown, I can see that it might give you some ideas for a change of scenery. And, as you can imagine, the destination is not only interesting to visit but also very photogenic.

Cheers.

Jean http://perso.wanadoo.fr/groenland-disko/yukon-dempster/

Masterpo Globetrotter ·2019-11-01

More than the wide-angle lens, I think it's the lens hood effect...

We’re totally on the same page. But the issue disappears as soon as you zoom in a bit.

but what’s the point of leaving it on when taking night photos, like the DSLR isn’t bulky enough already...

When I remember, I flip it upside down, but it’s rarely before I’ve already made the mistake

Philwood Regular ·2019-12-23

Awesome travel journal! I was in Shanghai a month ago, and I really enjoyed reading about your adventures. It’s always a pleasure to read your posts.

I was also in Yangshuo, but two years ago :-) Your journal brought back great memories! I also went to see the sound and light show—it was stunning! I made a little video of our trip where I filmed the show, among other things.

https://youtu.be/YwVGd402E98

Congrats again! !

Visitez mon site Woueb : http://philwoodrama.free.fr L'avantage d'être intelligent, c'est qu'on peut toujours faire l'imbécile, alors que l'inverse est totalement impossible

JE Jemaflor Veteran ·2019-12-27

That "little video" of yours is amazing—it’s got all the makings of a big production! Such pro work, bravo! Thanks for letting me discover the landscapes of the upper Li River with those drone shots. Stunning! Just like the terraced rice fields and the Hong Kong skyscrapers. Thanks a lot.

Jean http://perso.wanadoo.fr/groenland-disko/yukon-dempster/

ES Esethi Veteran ·2020-01-21

Hi Jean, First of all, congratulations and thank you for this beautifully illustrated travel journal. I’m also in the middle of planning a trip to China, and I’m thinking of taking a side trip to Yangshuo. So I have a few little questions for you: I imagine it’s easy to find a provider for a bamboo raft ride on the Li River. Can you confirm? How long does the ride last, roughly, and where does it take you? Not all the way to Guilin, right? And price-wise, what should I expect? Thanks for all these details, and I’m off to read—or rather, re-read—your Hong Kong journal. See you soon, Christine

JE Jemaflor Veteran ·2020-01-22

Hi Jean, First of all, congratulations and thank you for this beautifully illustrated travel journal. I’m also preparing a trip to China and planning a getaway to Yangshuo. I have a few questions for you: I imagine it’s easy to find a provider for a bamboo raft ride on the Li River. Can you confirm? How long does the ride last, and where does it take you? Not all the way to Guilin, right? And price-wise, what should I expect? Thanks for all these details, and I’m off to read—or rather reread—your Hong Kong journal. See you soon, Christine

Thanks for your interest in this story. Well, regarding the possibility of finding local providers for Li River rides, no problem—short or long trips along different sections of the river... I confirm. But as for the other details, it’s hard for me to answer because my ride was part of a guided and organized tour. I just followed the program and the raft’s route. Happy trip planning!

Jean Another water adventure in China with this cruise on the mighty Yangtze River: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/chine-fil-eau-yangtse-d9884186/

Jean http://perso.wanadoo.fr/groenland-disko/yukon-dempster/

ES Esethi Veteran ·2020-01-22

Thanks Jean for your reply. I think we’ll see how it goes when we get there—I don’t think I’ll take too many risks. I’m off to read the rest of your Chinese adventures (always so interesting and beautifully illustrated). See you soon, Christine

DA Davau38 ·2020-09-14

hi, I just read your story and saw your photos of YANGSHUO.. it's really interesting and I’ve noted this place for my future itinerary. Could you tell me how you went down the river? Did you rent a boat or are there "little excursions" available for tourists, or should I just ask the fishermen? Thanks for your reply. I love your watercolor..

Dane

JE Jemaflor Veteran ·2020-09-17

Hi! I just read your story and looked at your photos of YANGSHUO... it's really interesting, and I’d noted this place for my future trip. Could you tell me how you went down the river? Did you rent a boat, or are there "little excursions" for tourists, or should I just ask the fishermen? Thanks for your reply. I love your watercolor...

Thanks, Danièle, for your message. Our ride on the Li River was part of an organized excursion... but there are plenty of boats and fishermen offering this lovely, peaceful cruise. Even though I haven’t tried it myself, you can probably do it independently quite easily... and from many spots along the Li River. We started from the town of Fuli, and as you can see in the photo below, there were plenty of boats available...

Your message took me back to those travel memories in China—it was just a year ago, so many great memories! Especially in that stunning region of Yangshuo.

Jean http://perso.wanadoo.fr/groenland-disko/yukon-dempster/

DA Davau38 ·2020-09-20

Thanks so much for your reply.

Dane

SA Sawadeebaht Regular ·2024-10-24

Once again, a great travel journal to your credit—I hadn’t noticed it at the time. I think it was best to take advantage of that 20/25-year window when it was possible to visit Guilin/Yangshuo in the best conditions.

A Franco-Chinese agreement makes visas free until the end of 2025, but I’m not sure I’ll be tempted.

One question: how was it on the accommodation and food front—good, not so good, or really great?

Toujours une fois. Au moins.

JE Jemaflor Veteran ·2024-10-27

Your post really takes me back to the memories of that amazing trip... As for hotels, nothing particularly noteworthy to say—they were pretty decent. When it comes to meals, they’ve long since been digested ;-) but I still remember the delicious Peking duck and the interesting presentations of Chinese dumplings. And in Chengdu, there was the Chinese hot pot with Sichuan pepper—you’ve got to be a little careful with that since our European taste buds aren’t really used to it... but of course, it’s all a matter of personal taste and sensitivity. As for desserts, we quickly realized it’s not a big specialty there—we often got watermelon, which was nice, but when it’s the same thing at every meal... Just so you know, this trip was guided and organized, so it wasn’t a food-focused adventure. Thanks for stopping by.

Jean http://perso.wanadoo.fr/groenland-disko/yukon-dempster/

Nimou74 Veteran ·2024-10-30

Hi Jean,

So happy this forum is active again! I still remember your travel journal—I just reread it, and it brought back so many great memories. That was at least 15 years ago. Back then, during an 8-week trip, it was possible to get a visa for more than 30 days. I’d visited part of Sichuan and Yangshuo along the way.

Now, we’re planning a trip mostly in Gansu. I imagine China has changed a lot since then...

« Voyager rend modeste. Vous voyez quelle petite place vous occupez dans le monde. » - Gustave Flaubert https://www.myatlas.com/anneclaire95

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MirandaMouse 24 hours ago

Mice in Switzerland, the Other Cheese Country!

I'm starting my first travel journal since VF reopened!

This will mostly be to share my impressions and some photos, with a few days' delay, but I'm starting this journal while I'm still here.

First, I'd like to thank those who helped me prepare for this trip.

I was able to organize this stay in one of the most expensive countries in the world thanks to the home-exchange principle. Not necessarily a direct swap, but through a points system, which is more practical for choosing where you want to go without it having to be a reciprocal exchange.

For this trip, there will already be two different accommodations. We'll see how it goes after that.

The first place is near Yverdon-les-Bains, close to Lake Neuchâtel.

So, we're going to explore this area!

We arrived under capricious weather that won’t leave us for the next few days!

We had dinner at a pizzeria recommended by *Le Routard* in Yverdon, then took a little nighttime stroll through the town center before heading inland to settle into our accommodation.

We discovered a very large, quiet house—and especially the cat that stayed behind! Funny for a couple of mice! He’ll be sleeping with us 😹

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Aleph240758 24 hours ago

New adventures from Perpignan to Ranchi (Jharkhand)

March 2nd — Departure by bus from Latour at 6:50 AM. The journey isn’t direct: we pass through Elne then Corneilla. In Perpignan, I switch to a BlablaBus heading to Barcelona’s northern bus station. Before reaching Le Perthus, French police stop us to check IDs. Several people aren’t in order, but after about fifteen minutes, we’re on our way again. We’re checked again at La Jonquera: this time, the wait lasts almost forty-five minutes while police identify those in violation and wait for a vehicle to pick them up. The driver then tries to make up for lost time; we finally arrive at our destination half an hour late.

I quickly head to the Arc de Triomphe metro station, located 200 meters away: you have to cross the bridge along the bus parking lot, then walk through a large garden; the station is on the right before the garden entrance. The trip to the airport isn’t direct: I have to change at Tomasso and take the line to the airport, where I arrive at 1 PM.

At the Emirates counter, I learn my flight was just canceled due to the war in Iran; they offer me another flight for the next day. I have to wait at the airport until 7 PM before being taken to a hotel; the next morning, I’ll take a flight to Vienna (with an 8-hour layover), then an Air India flight to Delhi, and finally a flight to Kolkata. I agree: I don’t know Vienna, so it’ll be an unexpected discovery.

At 7 PM, a small group is taken to the hotel, 35 minutes from the airport, where we’re served a light dinner upon arrival.

March 3rd — A taxi picks me up at 6:30 AM; the flight to Vienna takes off at 9:30 AM and arrives at noon. I’m free until 7 PM; the metro is direct to the city center. The weather is pleasant and not too cold, luckily, since my clothes are light.

When I exit the metro, I spot the St. Stephen’s Cathedral tower in the distance and approach it: the roof, made of glazed tiles, is remarkable.

Entry is free, and the interior, a mix of Gothic and Baroque styles in the center, is stunning.

Not far from there is St. Anne’s Church

, also Baroque, adorned with beautiful frescoes

—a music concert adds an enchanting atmosphere to the visit. I continue my walk at random through the pedestrian streets lined with magnificent buildings: I’m charmed by the city.

Before heading back to the airport, I stop at a lovely tea salon. My flight will eventually leave with a delay.

Wednesday, March 4th — Delhi and a little luggage scare We arrive in Delhi shortly after noon. Immigration is quick, and good news: my bag was checked through from Barcelona to Kolkata. I head to the connecting terminal and arrive half an hour before boarding: the flight goes smoothly. Upon arrival, the luggage comes out quickly… except mine. After filing a report, I’m told my bag is in Delhi—I have to retrieve it before taking another flight. I didn’t know (or had forgotten): with the delays, I wouldn’t have had time to pick it up and make the connection.

I take a taxi to the Ichamati Hotel. The welcome is warm, and the room is clean but very small. Without my bag, I feel a bit lost—I have nothing to change into.

Tonight, I’m dining with Raja and his friends at a beautiful restaurant, an old colonial house turned into a hotel.

We’re happy to see each other and have a comforting evening together.

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Attila 24 hours ago · Perju

Amazing Kyrgyzstan!

This trip had been on my mind for about fifteen years.

But the discomfort of overnight stays, the difficulty of communication, and the prices of the few car rentals kept making me postpone the project.

And then, everything fell into place—I told myself, now’s the time!

Preparations took longer than usual; the destination is still far from mainstream.

A bit of Kazakhstan? Not in the end.

The south or not? Yes, in the end.

Pre-book or play it by ear? Only two stops were a leap into the unknown.

To help me find the ideal route, I made great use of this forum (thanks to everyone for patiently answering my questions!), pored over travel journals and blogs (Christian, Jeff), zoomed in on Google Maps and Yandex, and bought the guide published by OunTravela on this destination (the guide has been updated since).

---/---

You’ve got your passport, international driver’s license, bank cards, and euros?

Off we go to Lyon—just one night left before our early morning flight.

Tomorrow night, we’ll be sleeping in Bishkek! (‘Beefsteak’ for my partner’s mischievous nephews...)

You’ll find here a post with some practical info.

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Calisson94 24 hours ago

Back to Swedish Lapland: Trekking the Kungsleden and Crossing Sarek

After my summer 2022 left me with a sense of unfinished business, here I am back in Swedish Lapland for summer 2024, ready to attempt the Sarek crossing again—and this time, to tackle part of the Kungsleden too.

After much hesitation, my companion Jean Marie and I decided to start with the Kungsleden, which, from what we’ve read, is stunning but very busy (and boy, is it!). We’ll finish with the wilder option: Sarek! This park is called Europe’s last wild space—I think it’s incredibly inspiring!! The downside of this choice is that there are no resupply options in Sarek, and the Kungsleden isn’t really set up for long-distance trekking either. That means we’ll have to carry a lot of food for the first part of the trip, with Sarek in mind. But hey, we’re motivated!

Our plan is to start in Abisko (classic) and head to Vakkotavare (also classic, but with some variations to avoid the official route and the crowds). Then we’ll continue the Kungsleden from Saltoluokta, and before Aktse, we’ll set off on an east-to-west crossing of Sarek (weather-dependent, since aside from the Skarja hut in the center of the park, there’s no shelter if conditions turn bad). At least we’ll be on the right side of the park to climb Skierfe and enjoy the jaw-dropping view of Rappaladen if we have to abandon the Sarek crossing.

This adds up to 17 days of trekking, including 1 rest day and 1 buffer day for weather delays.

So if you’re interested, I invite you to follow our overstuffed backpacks!

08/03 - Abisko – 5km before Abiskojaure Some info (guides we used for prep, SFT map, sending food to Saltoluokta) 08/04 – 5km before Abiskojaure – on the east shore of Lake Alisjavri 08/05 – East shore of Lake Alisjavri – just before Tjaktja 08/06 – Just before Tjaktja – above the Salka hut via Nallo 08/07 - Salka – just past Singi + side trip to Djalson Lake 08/08 - Singi – Teusajaure 08/09 - Teusajaure - Vakkotavare (end of the first section of the Kungsleden) 08/10 – rest day in Saltoluokta + round trip to the Sámi village of Pietjaure 08/11 – Saltoluokta – Sitojaure 08/12 - Sitojaure - Skierfe – Sarek or no Sarek? 08/13 – Skierfe – somewhere above Rapadalen 08/14 – Somewhere above Rapadalen – above the Skarki hut 08/15 – Above the Skarki hut - Skarja 08/16 – Camping at Skarja 08/17 – Ruohtesvagge 08/18 – Ruohtesvagge - Padjelantaleden

08/19 – Padjelantaleden - Ritsem – End of the trek 08/20–24 – End of the trip (Luleå - Stockholm) And of course, the recap!

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Zigomar67 24 hours ago · Puma2A

Argentine and Chilean Patagonia from El Calafate to Ushuaia

This travel journal summarizes a trip I took in March to Argentine and Chilean Patagonia. It starts in El Calafate and ends in Ushuaia. During my planning, I considered looking into the Australis cruise from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia, as well as the W trek in Torres del Paine National Park. In both cases, I was put off by the prices. Instead of the cruise, I found two interesting wildlife excursions from Punta Arenas: whale watching in the Strait of Magellan and observing king penguins in Tierra del Fuego. The journey to Ushuaia was by bus. For Torres del Paine, things were a bit confusing, so I reached out to two agencies. In the end, I went with a rental car option, overnight stays on-site, and day hikes. I shared my full itinerary with the agency and ended up being taken care of by a local Argentine agency and a Chilean one. So, here we go...

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Montagnard74 2 days ago · Djalma

Turkey 2026: Riviera, Antalya, and Cappadocia

Hi everyone!

If you're looking for great tips and offbeat spots, if you love exploring uncharted parts of a country, if the exotic is your adrenaline, then move along!

Our 15 days in early May in this part of Turkey (a country I first discovered during a city trip to Istanbul in 2017) will only tread well-worn paths and revisit popular routes. Simply because I kept hoping until the very end that our flight to Jordan wouldn’t be canceled. Events in the Gulf proved me wrong, so we left with: Zero preparation. Not a single hotel booked (well, except the first one), no visits planned, just a flight ticket bought three weeks earlier. No guidebook, no app—just the desire to explore southern Turkey and Cappadocia, whose images and the chance to stretch our legs had caught my eye.

Oh, wait—I did bring along a new guide: Gemini! Yes, my friends, generative AI was my chief advisor throughout the trip for sites to visit, accommodations, routes, and even restaurants! An experiment I wanted to try to form my own opinion on using this new technology. And what better way to test it than a Turkish getaway?

The verdict? You’ll have to wait for the trip recap to find out!

The main idea of the trip is also relaxation.

So, the plan is Antalya for a few days, the Turkish Riviera for a few more, Cappadocia as the highlight, and a return via Antalya to wrap up the trip. And it was all planned by AI!

So, if you're ready, fasten your seatbelts—cabin crew, doors to automatic and cross check—boarding for Turkey now!

A little sneak peek?

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Nathalie971 3 days ago

From Southern Shikoku, between land and sea, to the blue waters of Miyakojima and finally the Tokyo metropolis

From Southern Shikoku, between land and sea, to the blue waters of Miyakojima and finally Tokyo’s megacity

Hi everyone,

I have to admit, I really hesitated before deciding to write this travel journal... Writing one takes a lot of time and energy, and since this is my 4th trip, I wondered if it would even interest anyone other than myself (both for the discovery and the writing). But after a few people asked, "Are you going to write a journal?" and especially after rediscovering the joy of reading other travelers’ journals about Japan or elsewhere on this forum, I’ve decided to share my 4th installment in the Land of the Rising Sun here.

The itinerary: 27 full days, from late May to late June 2025, right in the middle of the rainy season, including:

-->13 days in Shikoku, from Kochi (Kochi Prefecture) to Matsuyama (Ehime Prefecture)

-->7 days in Miyakojima (Okinawa Prefecture)

-->7 days in Tokyo

The trip was decided on fairly last-minute again this year.

Since I regularly check flight prices to track fluctuations for this destination even without concrete plans, stumbling upon a slightly cheaper direct flight (900 €) than what I’d seen in previous months (around 1,200–1,400 € on average) for a Paris-Tokyo route with Japanese airline ANA was too tempting to resist the urge to return to this enchanting country. After much hesitation between exploring the San’in region (Matsue, Tottori, Yamaguchi) and Southern Shikoku, the decision was made—I took the plunge! The ticket is booked: Paris to Kochi with a layover in Tokyo, all with ANA, the airline I’d been dreaming of... for 1,120 € per person. Okay, it’s not cheap, but it’s better than in 2023.

Departure in 2 weeks! Now I just have to get everything ready!

Intense prep work over these next 2 weeks to:

finalize a more precise itinerary and reach an agreement—yep, because even though we both love Japan, our preferences differ slightly, and we have to choose between exploring new places or revisiting beloved spots... decide how much time to spend in each area without rushing while still exploring research places that might interest us and watch videos about Japan book accommodations: yes, it’s possible to do this on the spot, but last year, we realized that last-minute options were pretty expensive, so we’re booking ahead—though we’ll keep a few options open in case better deals pop up later reserve rental cars order yen check the weather regularly and wonder if choosing the *tsuyu* (rainy season) was really a good idea—are we going to be drenched the whole time???

"What hard work," you might say! Going to Japan for a month—what a tough life! Despite this being my 4th trip, the excitement is just as intense as the first time.

The only small downside is that when we booked the flight, there weren’t many seats left, so we’re only sitting together on the international return flight. Plus, on the way there, we have middle seats. Another lingering question: what French-language films will be available? According to the internet, the selection seems limited. Oh well, these are just minor details—it’s already time to fly! PS: I’ll be posting slowly and irregularly... so for those interested, be patient, and maybe set an alert...

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Cendryon 3 days ago · Eole34

Kattegat Tour and Norway’s Majestic Fjords – 32 Days (Denmark, Sweden, Norway)

Kattegat isn’t just the name of the village in the TV series *Vikings*—it’s also the stretch of water separating Denmark from Sweden... the sea, basically! And further north, you’ve got Norway and its fjords! Originally, I’d planned to just do a loop around Kattegat, with the *Under* restaurant in Lindesnes as our anniversary treat... but along the way, we thought, why not "push" a little further north, keeping an eye on the budget since we’d chosen to travel by car in June 2025 through Scandinavia.

Why by car when most travelers opt for a camper van, while others prefer the comfort of cruises? Well, because we don’t own a camper van, renting one is pricey, and then you’ve got to add fuel costs (those things guzzle gas!), ferry fees, and other "tolls." All things considered, we went for mostly rentals—especially since there were four of us at the start of the trip. We spent the first week in Denmark with our daughter and son-in-law. Then they flew back to Belgium, and we continued our adventure as a couple. For accommodation, we mainly booked Airbnb apartments, which helped keep costs down and, most importantly, let us prepare our own meals (diet, diet!). In this travel journal, you’ll discover (or rediscover, for those who followed my older ones) our unbridled love for theme parks, museums, unique experiences, and—especially in Denmark—Legos! Unfortunately, we didn’t do any hikes this year because the unpredictable weather had made the trails slippery, and since I’d already taken three tumbles during the trip, I didn’t want to risk another! In the end, we traveled for 32 days, covered 6,200 km, and most importantly, discovered the charming country of Denmark, marveled at Norway’s breathtaking fjords—all without suffering the heatwave that hit France and Belgium that June! If you’ve got any questions, don’t hesitate to ask!

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RichardXI 3 days ago

Page by Page on the Assisi Way – 1,200 km on Foot

Preamble

June 2024. While hiking with my brother on the GR 36 Tour du Morvan, I catch sight now and then of strange rectangular markers fixed to tree trunks. Against a bright orange background, a deep black Greek tau topped with a white dove. My first encounter with the Assisi Way. The Way of St. Francis: a pilgrimage route linking Vézelay in Burgundy to Assisi in Italy, covering nearly 1,800 km. It felt like an obvious next step—I immediately knew I’d take it on, attempt the adventure solo.

In the months that followed, I talked about my project to everyone—family, friends, my partner. An avalanche of comments, more or less the same but varying depending on each person’s character and life experiences. But deep down, it all boiled down to one legitimate question: why?

And the answers? Hesitant, awkward, partial, even confused. I quickly realized they weren’t so easy to find. It was as if my project seemed more like a whim, a kind of intimate caprice, rather than a well-thought-out plan. Of course, I knew the reasons that pushed me to leave—you always have to give some. Loved ones need to understand to feel reassured, and that’s understandable. But I fear that when I list them, they’ll sound like the same old checklist anyone embarking on this kind of journey might give. Of all the reasons I could mention, I’ll highlight just one here: the call of the road, the solo adventure that brings a powerful sense of freedom. A bit like Monsieur Seguin’s goat, who from her comfortable pen gazes longingly at the unconstrained horizon of the mountain. But if I’m being honest, I think I didn’t really know what I was looking for—or, more importantly, what I’d find. Deep down, when I reflect on it, one word keeps coming up that explains nothing and everything at once: desire.

Now well past sixty, I know that when I ask myself who I am or where I’m going, two things bring me fully back to myself: hiking and writing. And my intention was also to anchor this adventure through words, day by day. Writing down my feelings, emotions, discoveries, and reflections each evening. The famous travel journal that grounds the daily experience in reality. When I discovered the app "Polarstep," which was initially just meant to keep my loved ones updated and reassured, inform them of my progress, and maintain a connection, I found an opportunity to do it a little differently than usual. No retrospective notes polished up after returning, but spontaneous writing—recounting everything that crossed my mind during the day and publishing it immediately. A journey lived in real time.

This text is the exact transcription of my daily writings. Rereading them, I didn’t change a thing—just corrected a few mistakes and tweaked some awkward phrasing here and there. Short texts, fitting the format imposed by this kind of app. Writing as if addressing others.

Now, all that was left was to walk. April 18, 2026 – Vézelay.

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Jojoone1 5 days ago · Songsam

All Over Thailand

You can post your personal photos in the following thread: https://voyageforum.com/forum/quelque-part-en-thailande-d10655574/

This travel journal is therefore intended solely for my photos, to present a consistent style. All the shots were taken with a simple Samsung Galaxy smartphone and with whatever was at hand.

All stays combined, I’ve spent the equivalent of a year at most in Thailand, and I’m no great expert. However, after many trips, lots of reading on VoyageForum and other sites, and conversations with many locals as well as expats, my view of the country is becoming clearer, though it’s constantly evolving. You never stop discovering and learning.

I guess I wanted to deliver a puzzle, mainly for those who want to get an idea of the country here and for those who feel nostalgic about it. I don’t know if this minimalist sharing will interest anyone, but it’ll do me good to put it together. After so many months without traveling and then these other long months with VF closed, there’s plenty of material available.

There’ll be a mix of places, periods, and subjects, but it might well be intentional.

I suspect many Thais have dogs because they make excellent guardians for the home. Nothing better to deter burglars or to signal the presence of a snake. You’ll often see Thais tapping the top of their dog’s head, but don’t be fooled: it’s a sign of affection from them. Judging by the dogs’ reactions, they’re used to it.

Thailand is one of the countries on the planet where rabies is still present, so keep that in mind. It’s not just bites that can be dangerous, so don’t let just any dog lick you. Especially on a wound, of course. Even though dogs often fear humans—this dangerous and unpredictable predator—we still need to stay cautious. Be careful when walking into alleys because the dog will defend its master’s big yard. Be careful at night, and be careful when they’re in packs. It sometimes crosses our minds that Thailand isn’t all that made for walking around, and dogs are one of the reasons. That said, it’s not uncommon to see them chasing bikes or scooters. Cars, though? Much rarer—they’re too big.

It seems Thais prefer to give their dogs freedom by not locking them behind gates. Though sometimes the gate is closed, the little side door is wide open. Oh, and sometimes there’s no gate in front of the property, or it’s been full of holes for years.

You’ll often see dogs sleeping on the roadside, sometimes right on the road. When you approach, they move aside nonchalantly—or not at all. It’s less funny when they suddenly appear from thick vegetation, reminding visitors not to drive too fast. As a result, you’ll notice that dogs with injuries or missing legs aren’t that rare.

Since they believe in reincarnation and respect for all forms of life, they don’t chase dog packs away too much, and they don’t sterilize them enough. When you see a small pack roaming freely in the countryside, you think twice about running into them at the edge of a field. A darker side of this is that euthanasia isn’t often practiced. Twice, we saw dogs at death’s door in temples, enduring terrible suffering with no one to help. The image (and the smell) of one of them, agonizing and exuding the stench of death, still comes back to me sometimes.

Some of you may have seen the YouTube vlog of a French woman living in Phuket who was given a little pig by her Thai friends. The animal, well-fed, quickly became a happy and enormous beast with its own garden. Yet it didn’t take long for it to fall seriously ill and become incurable. In her video, the French woman described how difficult it was to find a vet willing to perform euthanasia.

You’ll often see bowls by the side of the road. Thais leave food and water there for stray cats and dogs. Overall, they have a big heart for animals.

If you ever pop into a shopping mall, you might see people pushing their small dogs in strollers. It’s not just for fun—these strollers are provided for customers to put their pets in, otherwise you can’t bring them inside. It looks a bit odd when you expect to see a baby.

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Servanel 7 days ago · Vandfaure

Two weeks in Malaysia in September 2017

Hi there,

Here’s our account of our trip to Malaysia from September 11th to 27th. I hope our tips can help others as much as this forum has helped us!

Day 0:

Departure from Nantes with a transfer in Amsterdam via KLM (720 €).

Day 1:

We arrive at KLIA1 in the early afternoon. First challenge: figuring out where to pick up our luggage. Turns out the answer is right under our noses—we need to take the airport’s internal metro! Once we’ve got our bags, we withdraw some cash from a Maybank ATM right there. Next up: SIM card! Just outside the arrivals hall, several kiosks offer them. We go for a Celcom 5 GB card (70 RM). Then it’s taxi time to get to KL, in the Bukit Bintang area—about 85 RM in a slightly old taxi with weak air conditioning. We check into our Airbnb apartment, which is clean, more spacious than a hotel room, and—best of all—has a charming balcony with a gorgeous nighttime view!

We end up hanging out on that balcony, reviewing our plans for the next day. After dark, we take the monorail just a short walk away to enjoy our first evening on a rooftop at the 34th floor: Hélipad (Raja Chulan station—you have to enter the Menara Tower at the base of the station) with a panoramic view of the city and its iconic towers.

Finally, we head to Jalan Alor to grab a bite in this super busy street. Big sleep ahead! 😴

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Muriel18 last week · Puma2A

Two weeks under the Puglia sun

After a pretty disastrous weather-wise trip to Gran Canaria, we’re hoping this time the sun will shine in Puglia. It’s not a sure thing, though—the weather’s been awful all over Europe in early May.

For those who’d like to (re)read the story without the digressions, it’s here.

Saturday, May 16: This time we’re flying out of Charleroi (Brussels South): the ticket prices, flight times, and proximity all worked for us. The airport (Ryanair) was recently renovated... but it’s still not very well organized. There are hardly any seats in the boarding areas, and... the restrooms cost money!!! The flight goes smoothly, though, and we land in Bari a little late.

We quickly pick up our rental car, a very local-looking Pandina (even more so than the Fiat 500 in this region), and hit the Italian roads... and their unique driving quirks (like the fact that the countless road signs along the streets and in towns are purely decorative 😏, and that Italian cars don’t have turn signals 😮... except for rental cars).

About an hour later, we arrive at our first accommodation, right in the middle of the countryside near Monopoli. The owner isn’t there, but they’ve left us a ton of info via messages and even turned on the space heater, which is a nice touch. We explore the property:

And the next morning before breakfast, its immediate surroundings:

Sunday, May 17: After our "seaside" experience in Gran Canaria last weekend (packed with people and locals), we decide to start inland. After a hearty breakfast,

we head toward Alberobello, a super touristy village famous for its trulli—those stone houses with conical roofs. We easily find a free parking spot on a street near the Aia Piccola district, where some trulli are still lived in year-round.

We almost immediately come across the Trullo Sovrano (the only two-story one), which you can visit (but we skip it—it’s opening time, and there’s already a line).

From there, we head down toward the Basilica of Cosma e Damiano... but we don’t go in because there’s a mass.

Now we’re on the main Piazza del Popolo, which connects the two districts of Alberobello: Rione Aia Piccola and Rione Monti, the more touristy one.

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Fabhyène last week · Chrisfenua

3 weeks in Laos, stress-free

Come along, I'm taking you to this country where it's so nice to wander and slow down...

This trip was in 2023, but when I wanted to write my travel journal, VF was still closed to contributions... So, now that I've just finished my Japan travel journal here, I figured it was high time to honor this destination we came back from so enchanted. Disclaimer 1: This is a written travel journal. There’ll be text! Too much, for some! Disclaimer 2: This is an illustrated travel journal. There’ll be photos! Too many, for some!

I have to say, every time I try to discipline myself, to keep it shorter, to include fewer photos... I end up adding more. It feels like my dear Aunt Nicole, who exhausted us with her slide-show evenings in the 70s/80s, decided to take her revenge. The upside for you, readers, is that you can slip away anytime without offending Aunt Nicole. I won’t even notice!

Anyway, since I love maps, here’s one to give you an idea of where I’m taking you. As you can see, we only saw a tiny part of Laos (the areas circled in red); we only had 3 weeks for ourselves (my husband’s newly retired, I still work), and we prefer taking our time over rushing around like crazy.

In broad strokes, it was very classic:

First, we “settled in” at Luang Prabang (8 days), because we wanted and needed to. From there, we took three days to venture a little further north—not far in kilometers, but as we know, distances aren’t just about km! Then we flew south to Paksé, letting ourselves drift down to the 4,000 Islands while stopping by the pre-Angkorian archaeological sites. We wrapped up with the Bolaven Plateau.

A few practical notes: We arrived via Bangkok, then took a Bangkok-Luang Prabang flight, having picked up our luggage in Bangkok to check it in for Luang Prabang. No issues—the Bangkok airport, which many of you know, is very well organized. We got our visas on arrival in Luang Prabang. Quick, but to be fair, we were on a “small” plane, and the big flights had arrived earlier, so we weren’t too crowded in line! At the end of our trip, we didn’t fly out of Paksé but from the nearby airport in Thailand, Ubon Ratchathani (a 2.5-hour drive from Paksé), then Bangkok and Paris. You’ll notice we skipped Vientiane to stay longer in Luang Prabang. That said, there’s now a high-speed train between Vientiane and Luang Prabang—good to know—and soon the (Chinese) train will go all the way to Bangkok and even Kuala Lumpur!

With that intro out of the way, let’s dive into the heart of the matter. To be continued: Slowing down the pace... in Luang Prabang

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Torpan last week · Tulipe57

Japan: First Discovery!

Here’s a little story about my first trip to Japan with my partner. We went for our first visit from October 29 to November 13, 2024.

I had planned this entire trip back in November 2020, but given the health situation at the time, I had to cancel...

Here’s the classic route we took:

We booked everything ourselves and got a regional pass for the area from Kyoto to Hiroshima. The hotels were reserved 3 months in advance on Book... and Agod... (1030 € for 2 people for 13 nights = 80 €/night). For the flight, we chose a Qatar Airways flight with a layover to break up the long journey (950 € per person). We also got a pass on the same site (Japan-Experience) to take the train connecting Narita Airport to Shibuya Station (the N'EX Narita Express). Since the airport is 75 km from central Tokyo, we opted for this mode of transport, even though there are cheaper alternatives. After reading various posts on VoyageForum, I understood how important it was to have a Welcome Suica card to pay for public transport (subway, tram, bus, boat throughout the country), and we were able to buy one at Narita Airport. It turned out to be super useful! After a long but smooth journey, we found ourselves at Narita Airport in the evening. Even though we had a pass for the Narita Express, we had to go to a counter to make a reservation for the train (mandatory). Then, once we arrived at Shibuya Station, we took the subway for 2 stops and finally reached our hotel, exhausted (Hotel Asia Center of Japan – 270 € for 3 nights with breakfast included).

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Fabhyène last week · Tulipe57

Draw Me Your Japan...

Hi there!

I’m inviting you on a stroll through my drawings—a completely subjective, far from exhaustive, and totally personal take, since it’s based on my own sketches. I put this travel journal together after returning in late 2024, mostly using felt-tip pens and pencils, with a few collages thrown in. I worked from our personal photos.

Let’s start with the shotengai...

Our first "wow" moment came as we stepped out of the subway in Asakusa, the Tokyo neighborhood where we’d booked our hotel for our first five nights. Exhausted after our long flight, we finally arrived and took an exit that led straight into a shotengai—one of those covered shopping streets that pop up in city centers and flourished between the 1950s and 1980s.

It was an instant aesthetic shock, like a close encounter of the third kind between the modern city, a typical Asian market with its street stalls, the vintage vibe of the arcade, the sheer abundance of goods, and the bustling crowd—a mix of tourists, pilgrims (thanks to nearby Senso-ji Temple), and locals (it’s a very working-class area). In the end, it set the tone for a feeling we’d experience throughout the trip. Wherever we went, shotengai turned out to be fantastic spots for finding little restaurants, shops, or even fresh produce. Some are like real mazes, like in Kyoto, where we spent ages trying to relocate a restaurant we’d loved ;-)

In Kanazawa, the Omicho Market:

And in Kyoto, Nishiki Market:

To be continued...

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Holigirl 2 weeks ago · Solene40

South Africa in safari mode: February/March 2026

Hi everyone,

With my girlfriend Christelle, we’ve chosen South Africa for our first trip to Southern Africa, focusing on safaris—after a long debate with a Cape Town/Kruger combo. But that would’ve meant cutting out St Lucia, which would’ve been harder to fit into another trip. And St Lucia—thanks to Michel and all those travel journals—we really wanted to go there.

So our 11-night itinerary ended up like this, mostly shaped by school holidays: - 3 nights in St Lucia - 1 night in Hluhluwe - 1 night at Mkhaya Game Reserve (Eswatini) - 1 night at Hlane Royal National Park (Eswatini) - 3 nights in Kruger (Berg en Dal / Satara / Tamboti) - 1 night at Shindzela Tented Camp in the Timbavati private reserve - 1 final night in Kruger at Lower Sabie

All of this in the off-season and rainy season, just a month after catastrophic floods that killed over 150 people and seriously damaged Kruger’s infrastructure.

I’ll jump straight to St Lucia and skip the loooong journey to get there (with a layover in Frankfurt, landing in Johannesburg, a domestic flight to Durban, and the rest by rental SUV—First Car Rental, perfect, no complaints).

To motivate readers—especially some familiar faces here—I’ll drop in a first photo.

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Caroki 2 weeks ago

Three weeks in Albania with two older teens

We went to Albania in August 2025. Our itinerary included adventure (sporty activities, site visits), naps on the beach interspersed with swims, incredible natural sites, and a bit of culture.

I booked all our accommodations on Booking.com. Note: almost all places ask to be paid in cash!! You can obviously withdraw from banks, but the fees are pretty high. Luckily, we had plenty of cash, and the country is very safe. You can pay in euros most of the time, which avoids exchange fees. We started in Tirana. I’d read a really interesting post about Albania’s bunkers (link in my profile). We chose to visit Bunk’Art with a guide from the agency that wrote the post. It was fascinating—not only to better understand the country’s history but also because her grandfather was repressed by the regime, and she shared her family’s experience with us.

Bunkers are everywhere! In Tirana, Bunk’Art is the most interesting and largest. You’ll see the dictator Enver Hoxha’s office, where he would’ve taken refuge in case of an attack on the country. Bring a sweater—it’s really cold in the underground tunnels and their huge corridors. You can visit other bunkers around the country, in Tirana and elsewhere. Almost all are just abandoned. The cable car up Mount Dajti is right next to Bunk’Art. The view is stunning—you realize Tirana is so close to the mountains and the sea... But otherwise, it’s not that exciting for older teens (17 and 19) and their parents. We picked up a rental car in Tirana—it’d be ours for the next three weeks. We used Goalbania’s agency to avoid any hassles. First, there aren’t many cars available in Albania in summer. Second, French credit cards can be a nightmare abroad. So we preferred to sort that out in advance. After Tirana, we headed to Permet. Just a heads-up: the roads are in great condition except in the mountains. And Albanian drivers aren’t stressful to deal with. Though you might suddenly encounter a herd of goats crossing the road—haha—but if you’re not going too fast, it’s fine. In Permet, I’d been dreaming of rafting on the Vjosa, one of Europe’s last wild rivers. And we did it with a local agency! It’s beautiful, accessible to everyone, not too physical but still a bit lively—just how we like it. You can even jump into the river in some spots. In Permet, we also hiked through a canyon and visited a lovely little church.

And we took a workshop to make their local culinary pride: gliko. It’s a jam with whole fruits inside. We’d seen it on Goalbania’s site, and it was really fun. We were with a family where the secret to making gliko has been passed down for generations... Next, we headed to Gjirokastër. A city we loved: its old traditional houses (Skendulli and Zekate), its grand castle, the Ali Pasha Bridge. Along the way, we stopped for artisanal ice cream at a little shop run by a grandmother who’s been making it herself for ages.

One afternoon, my husband *had* to go to the coast in the south, to Ksamil (he’d read it was better than Sarandë). Verdict: we didn’t like it. Parking is a nightmare, the beaches are super noisy and crowded. The sea is packed with jet skis, boats, pedalos, and ropes. Avoid it.

On the other hand, we really liked Himarë, where we went next. We stayed at a campsite where we rented tents with mattresses and sheets inside. Right by the sea, on a low cliff (about 2 meters high). You can hear the waves at night... Magical!! To swim, you either jump straight into the sea (almost from the tent) or climb down a ladder, which you’ll need to climb back up to get out.

I was a little worried the campsite wouldn’t be very comfortable, so afterward, I’d booked a small place in Gjilek. Turns out, the place was really tiny (one room for four, no kitchen) and pretty expensive (over 100 € a night). We’d drive to the beach or restaurants—it’s on a steep slope, so not very accessible. Parking near the sea is tricky. But the (private) beaches were nice—we’d rent an umbrella not too close to the music and spend the day there. We also went to a wilder beach, harder to reach, via a long path. Behind the beach, there’s an amazing canyon where we’d sometimes climb using ropes (already in place, no need to bring your own) over big boulders rolled around by the stream, which must swell a lot in spring. So, the sea in Albania: it’s nice if you like swimming and relaxing, but it’s not the most interesting part of the country. There are so many other amazing things to see and discover—so many stunning sites! Maybe an agency could’ve helped us find more practical accommodations and avoid Ksamil and its surroundings. We left the coast to head to the beautiful city of Berat and its "thousand windows." We explored the city, its fortress, and its icon museum.

Then we discovered the Osum Canyon—it’s incredible. The view from the top is breathtaking. And at the bottom, it’s magical. There’s little water in summer, so rafting isn’t an option. We weren’t tempted by the big-tube descent offered by an agency—it looked fun, but the group had 40 people. We preferred hiking on our own as a family of four. We scouted the area on Google Maps... and found where to descend. We walked in the water, then it rose to our waists, then our shoulders... We weren’t moving fast. And how to get back up?? Eventually, we followed a group with a guide—the path was hard to find.

After that unforgettable hike, we visited the Bogovë Waterfalls. It’s pretty, and we swam, but the water was *really* cold. We passed through Tirana again and then headed to Shkodër. We explored a bit—its charming little streets, the Rozafa Fortress. There’s a tiny museum where you can see *huge* Ottoman stone cannonballs. And they tell you the (charming) story of the young woman who was walled alive in the castle’s foundations to ensure its strength... Shkodër is mostly a stopover to head into the mountains and discover Theth. Our goal: hiking in the Valbona Valley, from Valbona to Theth. We organized the trip ourselves, without an agency, but it took some time to figure everything out. So I’ll save you the trouble—haha. Book your tickets on the Komanilakeferry website. The ticket includes: 🙂 minibus transfer from downtown Shkodër to Koman 🙂 ferry ticket from Koman to Fierze. This ferry ride is *gorgeous*—between mountain slopes covered in pine trees, and sometimes a little house with a few fields...

🙂 minibus ticket from Fierze to Valbona. Now you’re in the mountains! The minibus drops you off near your accommodation—pick one as close as possible to the start of the hike (if that’s your goal!). The ones at the far end of the village add up to 1.5 hours of walking. Our choice: Guesthouse Dioni. The host is really lovely, it’s in the woods, and it’s basic but great. After a day of hiking, we arrived in Theth. What beautiful mountains! Then we explored Theth and the surrounding area. It’s pretty busy, but you can still enjoy the Blue Eye of Theth and its swim. It’s *so* cold! But so beautiful!

🙂 minibus ticket from Theth back to Shkodër. After a night in Shkodër, we drove to Kepi i Rodonit. A guidebook (I forget which one) raved about its beauty. And it *is* beautiful!

But the view is ruined by plastic bottles and other trash in the bushes, along the paths, and of course on the beaches. The only peaceful spot: the private beach at Kepi i Rodonit, which is cleaned. You can rent an umbrella and have lunch there. That’s where we spent our last few days—very relaxing. In short... Albania turned out to be perfect for us and our teens!

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Attila 2 weeks ago · ReneVoyageur

Albania in Autumn Colors

A new work assignment means our vacation dates can't stay the same.

We had planned to go to the Canary Islands, but flight prices are skyrocketing with this new holiday schedule.

So, I’m looking for an alternative to Gran Canaria and El Hierro and found two round-trip flights with Wizz Air to Tirana.

398 €, including baggage and seats—perfect!

Plus, the departure and return times are great, which is pretty rare for a low-cost flight!

All that’s left is to rent a car, plan the route, and book accommodations.

With two weeks, we’ll have to make some choices!

Here’s the final itinerary: Shkodra (2 nights), Valbonë (3 nights), Tirana (1 night), Lake Ohrid (1 night), Korçë (1 night), Përmet (1 night), Gjirokastër (1 night), Himarë (2 nights), Berat (2 nights), and Krujë (1 night).

A mix of countryside and small towns, a bit of the Mediterranean, and some mountains!

Late October isn’t the best season, so let’s keep our fingers crossed for the rest...

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6cha38 2 weeks ago

Our family trip from Denver to Yellowstone – a recap

Hi there,

I’m diving into a recap of our loop—pretty classic, really—Denver-Yellowstone-Denver this past summer, from July 24 to August 17. Given the sheer number of trip reports already out there (or in the works), and since I don’t have the writing chops or the photography skills of many of you, I’ll keep it practical—well, I’ll try, at least—to share our take on some of the less-visited parks and spots.

First off, a huge thank you to everyone whose trip reports, blogs, websites, comments, and more helped us put together this itinerary. Looking back, it could’ve been even better optimized: a few disappointments when we missed out on some great discoveries, often because we were short on time. Plenty of reasons to come back to the area!

We’re traveling with our four (almost) teens—18, 16, 14, and nearly 12 years old. To keep the trip enjoyable for everyone, we had to make compromises on both sides: cutting a visit short to spend more time swimming, waking up at dawn, and so on. But logistics also played a big role—things like laundry, grocery shopping, and keeping luggage organized could’ve quickly become time-consuming without a little planning. And honestly, I think we visited every Walmart along the way! Blame it on the lack of fridges in some accommodations and, more importantly, the *very* limited space in the car, which made it impossible to bring a proper cooler. I’ll come back to the car saga later.

For accommodations, this year we alternated between basic cabins in KOA campgrounds and Yellowstone (when staying more than one night in the same place) and hotels. Always with a pool (except in Yellowstone, of course), which let the kids burn off energy—because they always have reserves, even after packed days!—and, let’s be honest, gave us a chance to relax. No Wi-Fi issues either; we all had plans with 25 GB of data (a big thanks to Gilles for the amazing deal at 0.99 €). It worked perfectly, even for texts and calls between phones—no extra charges.

Now, onto our route: as I mentioned, a classic Denver-Yellowstone-Denver loop. To avoid rushing through the parks or spending all our time on the road, we prioritized staying as close to them as possible, with at least two nights in each place. And I’ve got to say, it’s really nice to settle in, even if it’s just for two nights. It also helped us deal with the weather, which wasn’t always great during this trip. The trade-off? With vacation time being limited, some driving days ended up being long. We knew that going in, but since we kept a relaxed pace with no time constraints (don’t ask me for timings—I don’t keep track of the clock on vacation, except in the morning to get everyone up before noon!), we sometimes ended up with marathon days.

With that said, I’ll dive into the trip itself in the next post.

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Attila 3 weeks ago

Storm in the Canary Islands

15 days across Gran Canaria, El Hierro, and a dash of Tenerife under the storm Thérèse!

The planned itinerary will be slightly disrupted...

(The version without discussions is here)

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Bibouns51 3 weeks ago

Off on a winter adventure in the American West!

Day 1 – February 14

We all have two lives. And the second one kicks off the day you realize you only have one, with the determination to spend the time you have left on what truly adds sparkle to your life, Kevin! I like to elegantly introduce a trip with a philosophical quote. First, it gives you the illusion that I’m some kind of deep thinker, and second, it lets me fill up the first few lines of my blank page when I don’t know how to tell you I’m diving back into what really lights up my life: another adventure beyond the horizon! And nearly every other year, like a toxic relationship, my horizon tends to take shape in Uncle Sam’s backyard. And this, despite his cousin Donald calling the shots. Speaking of which, it was partly that impulsive guy who pushed us to be just as impulsive and snag our four flight tickets at a ridiculously low price—a direct result of foreign tourism taking a hit from BetaMax’s repeated antics... Four tickets? Who are the other lucky ones? In this case, our lucky ones are actually lucky ladies: My Flo, always up for exploring the world with me on foot, camelback, or scooter, is obviously in on the fun. The other two seats went to our daughters, Sasha and Luna, both thrilled to be part of this new American adventure...

But what’s the American West like in February?... A gamble. Let’s call it Russian roulette since we’re not landing during peak weather season. That’s why we encouraged our transportation and accommodation to get cozy and produce a little camper van, so we can stay ultra-flexible in the face of any weather tantrums. We’ll be roaming in Kara the van with the motto "Follow the sun!" Bad weather? We bolt. Snow? We speed up. Sunny? We act like it was the plan all along and soak it up.

"Okay, but why keep coming back to the same corner of the globe? After ten American adventures, you must be tired of seeing the same things, right?" But I’m not crazy, you know!... The American West is like making love to your gorgeous wife over and over, always enjoying it just as much. And contrary to what you might think, the American West isn’t just the Grand Canyon, Monument Valley, Las Vegas, and Bryce Canyon. Proof is, after ten trips to the U.S., my retinas are still untouched by three-quarters of the places I scribbled on a napkin for this adventure... Oh, and add to that my wife, who I’ve easily converted to my religion, and boom... relapse is even easier! Because yes, we’ve landed in Los Angeles after a sunny flight over Greenland, still under Danish flag for now. And we’re already heading east through the XXL traffic of L.A.’s eight-lane highways, eager to dive into our first discoveries. But first, night is taking over the sky, and second, we’ve been officially awake for 24 hours, so I suggest wrapping up this intro. I’ll tell you more tomorrow morning. Sound good?

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Montagnard74 3 weeks ago

CAPE VERDE 2025: 3 weeks, 4 islands.

And we still haven’t seen everything! Before setting off for new horizons at the end of this year, it’s time for me to share my trip to Cape Verde this summer 2025.

I particularly love these spontaneous trips, and our stay in Cape Verde is one of those because it was only at the beginning of April that we decided on this getaway, which had been catching our eye for a while, given our love for the mountains.

As always—well, when it’s open—I turned to VF, and I want to immediately thank Marie, aka ptitortue, who helped me a lot in planning this trip through her travel journals and our exchanges!

Because Cape Verde is both small and vast! We decided not to rush from one airport to another, to enjoy the places and the people, but also to relax, since the work backlog from being stuck in May (see my previous travel journal 😅) had to be caught up on in June.

So, 4 islands will be our winners from 06/28 to 07/19:

Santiago first for logistical reasons, as round-trip flights from the capital Praia were the cheapest (650 €/person from Lyon via Lisbon with TAP, still!)

São Vicente, because it’s the gateway to the next one but ultimately more than that...

Santo Antão, pretty much the main goal of the trip since Marie (and the photos) had really sold it to me.

And finally, Sal Island, for some rest—a non-negotiable condition for my other half—and we’ll see that I should’ve listened to Marie...

That said, what a chatterbox I am—buckle up, flight attendants at the doors, off we go on new beautiful escapes! (Thanks to Sophie for the easy loan)

Last note for my eager fan club 😏: yes, there will be alcohol—how could there not be in the land of grogue!

It starts here:

https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10790234;a=10790234

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Songsam 3 weeks ago

Far from the daily grind*

Hello, Since I enjoy not only the countryside but also everything related to rail travel, I’m starting this photo thread dedicated to trains in Thailand (I’d guess most of us have taken one at some point...). Feel free to post your pictures here as long as they fit the theme: rolling stock**, stations**, platforms, tracks (even without a train on them), technical equipment, engineering structures (bridges, viaducts), etc.—all in Thailand. For each photo, I’ll (or you can) note the station or line where it was taken. Comments and questions are welcome.

* train ** interiors or exteriors

All aboard!

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Jojoone1 3 weeks ago

From the Awakening to Travel to Morocco in the 90s

As I’ve mentioned elsewhere, I inherited my love of travel from my parents and some of my grandparents. A strong passion, but one that was unfortunately limited by our family’s modest resources. Back then, living in northern Alsace, a simple trip to the southern part of the region—with the Wine Route as our destination—felt like an extraordinary journey to a land of plenty for the little boy I was in the late 60s and early 70s. Everything seemed so huge when you were still just a kid. Back then, I was overwhelmed by countless sensations—I was already highly sensitive, with a keen mind and a nose and taste buds that were developing like a pro’s. Which, as I’d later realize, wasn’t always an advantage.

Those magical days always began with a gentle late-spring or midsummer morning. The interior of the white Peugeot 404, license plate 210 LZ 67, had already soaked up the sun before the engine purred to life, and the cabin gave off a scent I could still recognize today—a fragrance I found so pleasant. Back then, I had no idea it was just the smell of warm plastic from the car’s interior. Yes, the scents of the 404 on sunny days became my madeleine de Proust... What’s more, the whole family was unusually cheerful because those moments of relaxation and leisure were rare. Everyone worked, and no one had an easy job or was well paid. Without the *Trente Glorieuses*, these experiences might never have happened.

Once we crossed the canton’s borders, I felt like I was light-years away from my everyday surroundings, and every kilometer plunged me deeper into *terra incognita*. It was thrilling. Far from my so-called "medium-sized" town, wheat fields, cornfields, and cabbage patches stretched out, punctuated by tall poles connected by long wires and topped with vegetation—like giant clotheslines without laundry, where magical beanstalks might grow to touch the sky. Back then, I was still far from tasting their product, which was simply beer. At the time, there was still a significant local hop production. Fun fact: it wasn’t until 2002 that Anglo-Saxon scientists proved hops and cannabis belong to the same biological family.

After the fields, the landscape took another step up as it rolled past the little boy’s eyes, often glued to the windows. First came modest hills, then a succession of rolling slopes that soon formed an unbroken chain. Their 700 meters in altitude felt like Himalayan peaks to me—impressive, inert giants, a whole new world. Gazing at them, an intense emotion welled up somewhere between my stomach and lungs, nearly taking my breath away. What mysteries, what treasures did these heights hold? And then there were the cherries on top—the crowning touch that made the scene even more magical: proud, majestic castles perched on the summits like impassive sentinels. Monuments from the past, yet firmly rooted in the present on their rocky spurs. The little boy’s eyes sparkled—he’d been given a castle for Christmas, complete with battlements, towers, a drawbridge, and fully armed knights. He’d watched and lived *Ivanhoe* on the only French TV channel that existed back then.

Only once did my paternal grandfather join us on one of these trips. A tall, intelligent man with a face that could shift from stern to mischievous, clearly full of humor and charisma. Sadly, his relationship with alcohol had taken a toll on his life and, by extension, those of his loved ones. He had a strong personality—if his boss crossed the line, he wouldn’t hesitate to punch him, which meant he went through a lot of different jobs. Back then, you could quit one job and easily find another. It was quite something to see him in his final stages, hallucinating pink elephants and even drinking perfume when he had nothing else left. The last time I saw him, he’d slipped away from the doctors and nurses while hospitalized in pretty bad shape—at least, I assume his liver was the issue. We were sitting down for a family lunch when the door burst open, and there he stood in his pajamas, eyes twinkling with mischief, clearly pleased with the dramatic entrance. That theatrical moment didn’t spare us from burying him a few months later at the age of 71. One day, my mother told me the family doctor had quietly remarked that it was a shame—with his robust constitution, he could’ve lived to be a hundred. Yes, the family doctor—this was the man who’d come treat you any day, at almost any hour, just for a phone call. It really existed, it’s not a myth!

That day, his wife—my paternal grandmother—was also along for the ride. Everyone agreed that Jeannette was a good woman. She worked as a waitress at *Le Tigre*, the biggest brasserie in town, right in the center. Most customers preferred to be served by her, including local dignitaries and even the mayor. As a kid, I didn’t find her very fun, open, or warm—she seemed a bit stern. Back then, women in their fifties already had the face and build of grandmothers. Same went for men, don’t get me wrong. I had no idea about the struggles she faced because of her husband. I didn’t know that 30 years earlier, she’d had to flee Alsace while pregnant, under threat from Nazi fighter-bombers. I didn’t know she’d had several miscarriages, and that my father—her only surviving child, born prematurely in March 1940 at the other end of France—weighed less than a kilo at birth and was so tiny he could fit in a shoebox. Hard to imagine he’d grow into a strapping man nearly 1.80 meters tall, tipping the scales at 100 kilos. When you come back from summer camp in early August and ask why she didn’t pick you up with your parents, and they gently tell you she’s "in heaven," you don’t realize she passed away at 54 after suffering greatly from stomach cancer that had spread.

Back to that family outing, that enchanted parenthesis. I even remembered where we’d had lunch when I passed through Dambach-la-Ville decades later. One of those charming, flower-filled towns Alsace produces in abundance—and preserves so well. This one sits high on a hill, and I was a bit stunned on the parking lot because the view stretched far, revealing the Alsace plain below—its fields, villages, hills, and forests. The world seemed so vast and enticing that day, even though I was only glimpsing a tiny fraction of it.

The region was already very touristy, but I wouldn’t notice the downsides until much later. That Sunday noon, I discovered a large restaurant filled with diners. I can still see the enormous piece of meat they served me, decorated with a little wooden skewer topped with a flag. I kept that one for a long time. Those were the golden days of rich, flowing, thick sauces—so flavorful—and the era of the world’s best fries, made on the spot with the best potatoes. To top it off, I was *exceptionally* allowed a small bottle of apple juice, Orangina, or—even better if possible—Sinalco. Yes, Sinalco—like Orangina, but better. A brand that must’ve disappeared in the 70s, but why, and what a shame! Since then, Orangina’s little bubbles have taken the brand to the other side of the planet—it’s now Japanese.

Year after year, I’d eagerly await that ecstatic moment when the most beautiful castle in Alsace, the Haut-Koenigsbourg, appeared in my field of vision. The perfect model, the archetype that blended into the landscape at the height of a child’s dreams. The trip home always felt like a reality check—less jarring than an alarm clock, but more diffuse and melancholic. From then on, there was only one wish: *When do we leave again?*

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Elis 3 weeks ago · Djalma

9-Day Trek in the Balkans

Hi there, Here’s a recap of a trek through the Balkans covering three countries: Albania, Montenegro, and Kosovo. I was with a friend, and we didn’t do the full route (only one day in Kosovo). It was a wonderful trek through snow-capped mountains and vast flower-filled meadows, meeting incredibly welcoming people. At the end of the travel journal, I’ll share what I loved and what I liked less.

Day 1: Flight from Paris-Beauvais to Tirana with Wizz Air.

Since Albania isn’t part of Europe when it comes to phone service (at least not yet! :-)), we had to buy a physical SIM card—otherwise, the bill would’ve been sky-high if we’d used our French plan! We got one from Vodafone AL at the airport. You can buy online before leaving with a virtual SIM (e-SIM) for compatible phones, so you don’t have to swap cards. But given the uncertainty about choosing a plan online, we preferred buying one directly at Tirana Airport. Cost: 31 € for 100 GB. That’s way too much—100 GB is overkill. For 40 GB, it’s 27 €, and the plan lasts 21 days. The price difference isn’t huge, and it was cheaper than online. This plan covers all the countries along the Balkan range. Money tip: All guesthouses and accommodations accept euros. The local currency in Albania is the LEK. In Montenegro, it’s the euro. Bank fees for withdrawing money from an ATM in Albania are pretty steep: 8 € for a withdrawal of 600–700 LEK (about 200 €)! So it’s better to withdraw cash (euros) in France. Oh, and we booked all our accommodations before leaving, but payment is always in cash. Budget around 400–500 € for 9 days of trekking.

Then, a transfer the same day to Shköder, about a 2-hour bus ride. Cost: 10 € per person. Tickets bought directly on the bus. We spent the night in Shköder at a very clean guesthouse, Open Doors B&B. It had a small balcony overlooking the city.

I really liked Shköder, especially its pedestrian street lined with restaurants and lit up at night. It’s a great place to stroll and eat. The food isn’t expensive—two big salads and two beers: 14 € :-) . Fruit prices are also very reasonable: 3 € for a kilo of cherries, compared to 9–10 € in France. Religions coexist peacefully in these countries—Catholics and Muslims. From our balcony, my friend heard the call to prayer for the first time, coming from one of the city’s mosques.

Day 2: Bus ride to Theth, about 1,100 meters in elevation gain, the starting point for our hike the next day.

The trip took 2 hours and 40 minutes with a break in the middle. The bus was affordable, but taxis also make the trip—though they’re very expensive.

We slept in the heights of Theth at a new guesthouse, "Mountain Vista Shkafi," with an amazing view.

The family was adorable. The husband is a handyman and built almost everything himself. Their baby is named "Sky"—such a cute name, right? :-) Throughout the trek, I found the guesthouses very clean, and the hosts think of everything—no need to bring soap or shampoo; they provide it. Lunch in Theth at a traditional restaurant on the main road. We tried "Tave Dheu," an Albanian dish with beef, cabbage (very common), and cottage cheese. Delicious but not quite filling enough. For dessert, a honey cake that was perfectly moist—such a treat! Desserts like this are rare; sometimes they serve watermelon instead. We took a small private bus for 5 € to the "Blue Eye" parking lot, then walked for about 45 minutes to reach a stunning natural site—a kind of lagoon with incredibly blue water. The bravest can swim, but the water’s freezing!

That evening, we dined at "La Montagne Blanche"—excellent! A delightful mix of grilled meats with potatoes and grilled peppers. Some watermelon slices (which I’m not a fan of) and the famous Raki, a brandy served in Turkey and the Balkans! It was my first time drinking brandy "bottoms up." 😉

To be continued... 😉

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DrCarter 3 weeks ago · Djackx67

Two-week family trip to Colombia in August with 8-year-olds

Hi everyone,

I’d like to share my family trip to Colombia with kids aged 8. After spending hours browsing the forum and only having two weeks there, we decided to focus on two regions: the Coffee Zone for one week and the Caribbean coast for another. We traveled from August 8 to 23.

Day 1 – First stop: Bogotá

We arrived in Bogotá in the evening on an Air France flight—nothing to complain about, decent service, comfortable, and on time. However, the first night was a miss. We’d booked a hotel near the airport (Abitel Prime) for convenience, but the soundproofing was almost nonexistent; we heard planes as if we were on the runway. Luckily, exhaustion helped us sleep well anyway.

Day 2 – Off to the Coffee Zone and Salento

The next morning, we headed to the airport for a domestic flight to Pereira with LATAM. No issues: punctual and efficient, and in 30 minutes, we landed in Pereira. The landing already set a different mood: lush valleys, endless plantations, and humid air. We picked up our rental car from Localiza. Unfortunately, the experience wasn’t smooth—the paperwork took forever, and the wait tested our patience. Finally free, we hit the road to Salento, one of Quindío’s gems. We arrived in the late afternoon and discovered a colorful village bustling with artisan shops and cafés. Our first stroll helped us soak in the atmosphere before dinner at Bambú restaurant—a great surprise with careful cooking and local flavors. We spent the night at Casa Serafín, a charming little hotel, nicely decorated and well-located… but unfortunately very noisy.

Day 3 – The magic of Cocora Valley

This was one of the trip’s highlights. We set off early for Cocora Valley, famous for its giant wax palms, Colombia’s emblem. We chose the 12 km loop recommended by the *Routard*. The landscapes were spectacular: towering palms, rivers, suspension bridges. It felt like walking through a postcard. The weather was perfect. That evening, we dined at Barnabé restaurant—pleasant setting, decent food, but the bill was a bit steep for what it was. Back to Casa Serafín.

Day 4 – Coffee and panoramic views

The plan was a visit to Finca El Ocaso. For 1.5 hours, we followed a passionate guide who explained the entire coffee process, from harvest to cup. Very educational, accessible for both kids and adults, all in a stunning setting. The tour was in English for us, and we translated for our kids, who aren’t bilingual yet. In the afternoon, we climbed to Salento’s viewpoint. The valley view was superb. That evening, we ate at Veggie Garden, a simple and pleasant spot that was a nice change from the heavier meals of previous days.

Day 5 – Horseback ride to Santa Rita Waterfall

We booked a horseback ride with Cocora Magic. It was a real success: calm horses, a beautiful trail, mountain and meadow landscapes, and finally the refreshing and wild Santa Rita Waterfall. Without a doubt, one of the best moments of our time in the region. We even got a bonus ride up a 300-meter hill. We then headed to Filandia, less known than Salento but just as charming. We spent the late afternoon enjoying the pool at MuchoSur Filandia. The hotel is beautiful, in an idyllic setting. However, we also had soundproofing issues and could hear our neighbors.

Day 6 – Rainy detour through Filandia and Manizales

Rain caught up with us in the early morning: torrents of water made it impossible to go out. We stayed at the hotel, reading quietly. By noon, the rain let up: a quick walk in Filandia, a quick lunch, then off to Manizales. We chose to stay at El Otoño hot springs. Great choice: as soon as we arrived, we plunged into the hot pools, perfect after hours on the road.

Day 7 – Hiking and hot springs

In the morning, we hiked the Camino de Super Coco (found somewhat randomly on Google). A pleasant trail with mountain views and a peaceful atmosphere. The afternoon was spent in the hotel’s thermal pools, with a short marked hike down to the river. Dinner on-site at the hot springs’ restaurant. A simple but very relaxing day.

Day 8 – Rain, jacuzzi, and games

We continued to Finca Los Alpes. The rain greeted us again, but this time it turned into an asset: nothing like a steaming jacuzzi with a view of the misty mountains. The kids enjoyed the facilities too: mini-golf, ping-pong, billiards. Dinner and night at the hotel, cozy vibes.

Day 9 – Off to the Caribbean coast

Back to the airport to return the car (still a bit long). Flight to Cartagena with Avianca: punctual and comfortable. Upon arrival, we picked up another car and headed straight to the Hyatt Regency, a modern hotel with a pool. That evening, we dined at the hotel—practical after a travel day.

Day 10 – Colonial Cartagena

We set off to explore Cartagena’s old town. It was enchanting: colorful facades, flowered balconies, colonial charm—just magical. However, the heat was stifling and very humid. Afternoon relaxation by the pool. Dinner at Gestlani, a good restaurant in town.

Day 11 – Road to Barú

A hearty breakfast, then one last swim in the pool before heading to Barú. We checked into Las Islas Hotel. The setting was enchanting: wooden cabins nestled in the vegetation, a private beach, turquoise sea, impeccable service. Dinner at the hotel’s restaurant.

Day 12 – Beach and relaxation

A full beach day in Barú. Warm water, white sand, coconut trees, peace and quiet. A real postcard scene with iguanas and birds.

Day 13 – On to Santa Marta

Another morning at the beach before hitting the road to Santa Marta. The drive was a bit long (6 hours), especially with traffic jams in Barranquilla. It was the longest car ride of the trip. We spent the night at Villa María Tayrona, a beautiful place near the park.

Day 14 – Tayrona Park

We left early for Tayrona Park. We entered through **El Zaino**, parked the car, and set off on a hike to La Piscina (about 2 hours). We stopped along the way at Playa Arenilla, a stunning little beach, to rest. Lunch on-site, a swim, then back by 4 PM. The hike was a bit tiring, but the nature was spectacular: dense jungle, the sound of waves, and even a monkey encounter along the way. Evening and dinner at the hotel.

Day 15 – Last swim and return flight to Bogotá

Our last morning was split between the pool and the beach (the hotel has direct access via a 7-minute trail through vegetation and flowers)—hard to leave this paradise. We drove to Santa Marta’s airport to return the car, then flew back to Bogotá. We spent the night at Casa Dann Carlton, a comfortable hotel. We simply ordered room service, arriving too late to go out.

Day 16 – Bogotá and the end of the trip

Our last day in Colombia. After a good breakfast, we explored La Candelaria. Its cobbled streets and colorful houses were worth the visit. We visited the Botero Museum (free) and the Gold Museum, both fascinating. Back to the airport for our 11:55 PM Air France flight.

That’s a wrap on a varied trip—lush mountains, colorful villages, dream beaches, and tropical jungle. The pace was pretty relaxed, well-suited for our kids. They absolutely loved the trip to Colombia. Driving in Colombia was very easy, and we didn’t regret renting a car at all—it gave us more freedom to get around.

If I were to do it again, here’s what I’d change: - I’d spend less time in the Coffee Zone to stay a bit longer on the Caribbean coast, which was more relaxing for the kids. Or I’d head to Medellín, but I didn’t think the city was very kid-friendly. - Bogotá is a city that deserves a day’s visit, but it’s not a must-see. Maybe I’d have taken the KLM flight from Cartagena to Amsterdam instead.

If you have any questions, don’t hesitate!

Antoine

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Gaura 3 weeks ago · Fabhyène

Visiting Bologna in Photos

Since I didn’t have time to write a proper travel journal, I thought I’d share a few photos of Bologna—a really lovely city I discovered in 2017 while stopping on my way to Tuscany. Around Piazza Maggiore, which was packed with a stage and chairs for a show, stands the Basilica of San Petronio, massive and Gothic in style, with an unfinished façade (a common sight in Italy).

Another building near the square:

But Bologna’s real charm lies in its porticoes, which were added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2021: 62 km of arcades running along buildings, letting you walk sheltered from the sun or rain. Back in 1288, the city required houses to include private arcades for public use. In the city center, you can stroll under 32 km of porticoes in all sorts of styles—some plain, some ornate—with a strong presence of red tones.

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Muriel18 3 weeks ago

Gran Canaria... a trip that wasn't exactly thrilling

Okay, it wasn’t a total disaster either. Actually, I hesitated before starting this travel journal: is it even worth writing about a holiday that won’t leave an unforgettable memory? In the end, I went for it (there aren’t many recent travel journals about this destination). So, read on... or don’t .

Every time we’ve been to the Canary Islands, it’s been by default (basically: where can we go in winter or early spring when we only have a week—so not too far, not too much jet lag, but with decent weather?).

This time, we had two weeks, but the winter plan kept changing: first Thailand (dropped for personal reasons), then Martinique (dropped because of work leave dates that weren’t up to me), and finally, the Canary Islands.

We’ve already been to Tenerife (which we really liked) and Lanzarote (which we liked a little less). This year, two options: Gran Canaria or one of the smaller islands west of Tenerife (La Palma, or even La Gomera or El Hierro). We chose Gran Canaria... not sure it was the right call! Whose fault is it? Storm Thérèse’s! Yes, Storm Thérèse followed us on arrival, and its effects lasted quite a while. We had to adapt, cancel visits, change activities...

But even without Thérèse...

Saturday 21/03 Departure from Orly at 6:10 AM with Transavia. The plane took off on time and landed a little early, tossed around by strong winds before touching down. It had just rained, but it was (almost) no longer raining.

We quickly picked up our luggage and then the car at the Cicar counter. We got a Seat Arona instead of the Corsa we’d booked. Well, while the driving position didn’t feel great at first (I got used to it), the engine’s smoothness and power were much appreciated on the island’s winding and sometimes steep roads.

It was only 10 AM, and we couldn’t theoretically check into our accommodation until 3 PM (the owner promised to message me if it was ready earlier). So, we headed to the (big) *Jardín Botánico Viera y Clavijo*, where we planned to spend a few hours. We found a huge parking lot... empty. The passenger in the car in front of us (yes, we weren’t the only ones at the closed gate—there was a car in front and one behind) went to ask for info: it was closed due to the storm 😕. So, we calmly headed toward Puerto de las Nieves, on the northwest coast of the island.

The plan: go to a restaurant, visit the village, and do some shopping while waiting for early afternoon. As soon as we got out of the car, it started raining... we took shelter under the awning of a shop, waiting for it to pass. But the rain turned into a downpour, and within minutes, awning or not, Gore-Tex or not, we were soaked!

Since we were already wet, we might as well go to the restaurant—they weren’t far! But here’s the thing: contrary to what Google Maps said, they all opened at 1 PM, not noon! Back to the car, wading through 5 cm of water because all the village streets were flooded . The rain let up, we did some shopping, went to eat, and I got a message from the owner saying the accommodation was ready 🙂.

So, off we went to La Suerte, a few kilometers north of Agaete. The downside of the place, especially with luggage, is that you have to climb several flights of stairs via an outdoor staircase (after parking more or less far away on a steep street) to get there 😛). Of course, on the way from the car to the apartment, it started pouring again—the bags got soaked! Enough rain for today! We settled in quietly, and by late afternoon, we could (finally!) go admire the view from the terrace.

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Jcpo 3 weeks ago · AlineP

A Week in Lanzarote in Late September

Lanzarote Travel Journal

Trip Planning My partner and I are heading to the Canary Islands for a week at the end of September, specifically to Lanzarote. We chose this island over the more crowded ones for its volcanic landscape and the variety of hikes it offers. I booked everything through Expedia: our hotel stay, car rental, and Ryanair flight tickets departing from Marseille. It was the only way to get a direct flight. To make getting around easier during our stay, I picked a hotel located in the center of the island from the wide selection available. It’s part of the Barceló chain, specifically the "Barceló Teguise Beach Adults Only" in Teguise Beach, which turned out to be an excellent choice.

The Trip

Sunday, September 21 - Monday, September 22 Departure It’s 2:15 PM, and we’re at the Avignon TGV station. Danielle picked us up earlier due to the weather—thunderstorms and heavy rain all the way to the station. The TGV was on time, and it only took 30 minutes to reach Marseille Saint-Charles. The shuttle to the airport is quick and convenient, right behind the station. The bus leaves for the airport in the middle of the storm, with flooded roads and cars stuck in some spots. We get soaked making our way to the terminal. Two hours to wait before the flight. The plane finally takes off at midnight, but just before landing, the pilot announces that the destination airport is closed, and we’re being diverted to Tenerife. Ryanair will re-route us as soon as possible. We end up waiting 2 hours, and Ryanair kindly gives us a 4 € voucher. We re-board around 5:15 AM and take off at 6:00 AM. About 45 minutes to reach Lanzarote. After collecting our luggage, we head to the car rental desk. The counter in the terminal is closed, and we’re directed to parking lot P4—it takes us a while to find it. I’m a bit worried about the rental company’s reaction since the car was supposed to be picked up 7 hours earlier, but it’s not a problem. A woman next to us is furious because she’s in the same situation, and her rental was canceled. Anne-Marie translates for her, but nothing changes. We pick up a brand-new Toyota Aigo and head to the hotel. After checking in, we cross the garden, walking alongside the large pool to reach our room. A lovely first-floor room with a jacuzzi and a sea view. It’s early, so we head to breakfast—a generously stocked and varied buffet with everything you could want. Afterward, we drive to Cueva de los Verdes, but it’s packed with people and a long wait. We decide to come back another day. Next, we visit Mirador Del Rio. This rocky viewpoint at the edge of the island has breathtaking cliffs plunging 500 meters into the ocean. The view is stunning and impressive. A panoramic bar lets you cool off while enjoying the scenery. We return to the hotel for a short walk around the neighborhood and enjoy the beautiful pool with its pleasant water temperature. Relaxing by the pool, sun loungers, and all. In the evening, a very varied buffet at the restaurant. Then early to bed to recover from the sleepless night before.

Tuesday, September 23 After a restful night, we enjoy another varied and hearty breakfast. The terrace seating is very pleasant. We take an inland road leading to Timanfaya National Park. The road near the park runs alongside vineyards where the vines are surrounded by lava stone walls to protect them from the prevailing winds. Our first stop is at the visitor center, where the island’s volcanic activity is well-documented. Next, we stop at an area where you can take a short camel ride—two seats are installed on either side of the camel’s hump. This little ride offers a great view of the volcanic landscape from a higher vantage point. A fair price of 11 € per seat for a 20-minute ride. We then head to the park entrance via the road leading to the parking lot, where only authorized buses can take the winding route inside the park. It’s crowded, and we wait about 45 minutes with several stops before reaching the parking lot. We board the bus, and the route offers beautiful views of this volcanic area and its many craters. The journey is very interesting, with several stops for photos. At the parking lot, a guide shows us how the heat from the rocks beneath the surface can ignite dry vegetation. Water poured into holes in the ground immediately creates geysers and jets of steam. The building next to the parking lot has a restaurant where meat is cooked using the heat from a well dug into the volcanic rock. On our way back, we drive to Playa Blanca, a seaside town with a small sandy beach.

Back at the hotel in the late afternoon for dinner.

Wednesday, September 24 We wake up early and have a quick breakfast—few people are around at this hour. Two days ago, we booked a 10:00 AM visit to Los Verdes, lava tunnels created by eruptions and lava flows from the La Corona volcano, which extended all the way to the coast. When the lava came into contact with the air, it solidified on the surface while continuing to flow underneath. The lava tunnels stretch for 8 kilometers to the volcano, but we only walk one kilometer. The inside of the tunnel is impressive, with narrow passages and larger chambers. You can see traces left by the flowing liquid lava—varied colors and twisted shapes. At the end of the path, a large chamber has been turned into a concert hall with perfect acoustics. Next, we visit Jameo Del Agua. This is a continuation of the lava tunnel, developed by Manrique. There are beautifully designed bar and restaurant areas, as well as an underground lake where you can see small blind white crabs—a protected species in this very pure water. Higher up, there’s a lovely space with a central pool that could double as a swimming area, surrounded by beautifully designed white pathways that contrast with the blue water. Further on, you reach a large space inside the lava tunnel, set up as a performance hall with perfect acoustics. Stairs let you view this beautiful space from above. A gap in the lava landscape reveals the ocean on the horizon. We head back toward the village of Yé, at the foot of the La Corona volcano. A 160-meter walk from the church, a path crosses vineyard plots and then climbs to the top of the volcano’s crater in about 30 minutes. It’s the island’s highest volcano. When you reach the edge of the crater, you see how deep it is, with steep slopes inside forming a large circular opening. The place is breathtaking and awe-inspiring. We drive back to the hotel via a road that climbs quickly, offering a beautiful view of the island’s northern part.

Thursday, September 25 After another enjoyable and varied breakfast, we head to the center of the island toward the volcano park and stop at a roadside parking lot where a path leads to the Montana Cuervo volcano. This is a crater that opened on one side. During an eruption, an explosion created a breach in the crater. Huge blocks of rock were thrown dozens of meters away. The path goes through the breach and descends into the crater, allowing you to walk around it. It’s impressive, and you really feel small and fragile in this environment. The crater walls, with their different colors, highlight the rock formations. The crater is surrounded by a sea of lava with sharp, jagged rocks. You can walk around the outside of the crater, but it’s not very interesting. We then head to the west coast, stopping at a spot with a small green lake next to a beautiful black sand beach. Next, we stop at Salinas de Janubio, a lovely viewpoint overlooking the salt marshes with different water colors. A small shop sells various local products. We then head to the famous Papagayo beach. The road ends at a booth where they charge 3 € to continue. From here, the land is private, and you have to pay to drive down a 3-kilometer rocky dirt road. Quite a few cars are driving along it, kicking up clouds of dust. The car gets a dusty makeover. We arrive at a large parking area, with several paths leading to different small beaches. We go to Papagayo, a small blonde sand beach surrounded by red rocks. The beach slopes gently into the water, which is a pleasant temperature. The setting is charming and peaceful. We stay for a while before heading back to the hotel.

Friday, September 26 We start with a visit to the César Manrique Foundation in Tahiche. This was originally one of his homes. The modern construction spans several levels and is integrated into the lava flow, using the gaps to create living spaces. Large windows make the rooms bright and open to the scenery. The place is pleasant, with flower-filled gardens outside. It’s well worth a visit. Next, we drive to Las Grietas, where a path leads to a narrow crack in the volcanic rock, forming a tight passage where only one person can walk at a time. The passage isn’t very long, but progress is slow due to the endless selfies being taken here. We then stop at Casa Del Camposino, a renovated farm that houses several artisan shops. We taste a local wine recommended by a charming woman and buy two bottles of Lanzarote red wine on her advice. Now, we head to Tamara beach, a beautiful and wide beach at the foot of high cliffs. There are always great waves here, making it a surfer’s paradise. On the way back to the hotel, we stop at the cactus garden, César Manrique’s final creation. Designed with a great sense of aesthetics around an old windmill, it features 4,500 varieties of cacti in various shapes, all in a beautiful setting. We return to the hotel in the late afternoon for the evening.

Saturday, September 27 After another hearty breakfast, we head north to Haria. We stumble upon another of César Manrique’s homes, where he lived for a long time. This house is more traditional than the previous one but still has large, modern, and very pleasant rooms. At the back of the garden is his large studio, where he created his works. Next, we visit the craft market—this was our original plan. Various stalls offer local items, and it’s very crowded. No room at the café terraces to sit down. We then return to Famara beach for a long stay. There are always great waves here, much to the surfers’ delight. The water temperature is pleasant, and we enjoy it. On the way back to the hotel, we stop at a gas station to refill the car, which has been very fuel-efficient. Gas is also much cheaper here than in France—1.16 € per liter of SP95. We also wash the car, which was very dusty after the long dirt road to Papagayo beach. At the hotel, we enjoy a farewell cocktail before dinner.

Sunday, September 28 We spend the morning by the hotel pool before checking out at noon. For lunch, we go to a restaurant called "Dona Lola," near the hotel, with a terrace offering a view of the coast. We order tuna carpaccio, which is delicious. We then head to the airport, just 15 minutes away. We return the rental car and go to the airport. A long line to check in our luggage. The return flight is on time. A shuttle bus takes us to Saint-Charles station. We then head to our overnight rental. The boulevard slopes down, making it easier with the suitcases. The rental is between the old port and the train station. Once there, we pick up the keys and make one last effort to carry the luggage up to the third floor. The studio is nice, clean, and simply equipped—perfect for one night.

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Puma2A 4 weeks ago

In MIKUMI and SELOUS, Southern Tanzania (June 2024)

Hi everyone,

I’m a newbie to this forum, passionate about wildlife, the landscapes of East Africa, and Tanzania in particular. This June 2024 trip/safari is our 7th visit to Tanzania and our 5th in the south, which has drawn us more than the north ever since we discovered it in 2015.

In 2024, the entrance fees for the reserves and services have gone up again since our last visit. I chose to return first to Mikumi Reserve, which was the very first one we visited in the south. Then, we’ll head to Selous (J. Nyerere N. P.) as usual. Initially, we wanted to spend 2/3 days on Mafia Island at the end of the trip, but it made the total cost too high, so we gave up... We usually go to Ruaha and Selous, but I wanted to mix it up a bit—also to save some money...

As for the timing, June is a new experience for us. I thought it might be interesting to come just after the lodges reopen... hoping for some great wildlife encounters??

The trip starts in Marseille with our first flight on Ethiopian Airlines to Addis Ababa, then continues to Dar es Salaam, where we’ll finally set foot on Tanzanian soil again.

In Addis... "our" A-350.

.....

After arriving in Dar, we spent one night at a hotel near the airport. The next morning, we headed to the domestic flights terminal, which hasn’t changed in years.

By mid-morning, we boarded a Cessna 208B Caravan with Safari Air Link, heading to the Kikoboga bush airstrip in Mikumi, which we reached 45 minutes later. Fun fact: the pilot was the same one as on our return flight two years ago.

Welcome on board:

Of course, a driver/guide team from our chosen lodge was waiting for us upon arrival:

I was surprised to see so many aircraft parked there... even twin-engine Embraer Brasilias?? As a fan of vintage planes, I loved it...

On the other hand, the light was incredibly harsh.....!! Our guides only speak English. We knew that in advance. In the south, it’s very rare to find someone who speaks French. This’ll force us to dig into our high school English memories... from 60 years ago... at least.

It’s noon, and we head toward the lodge. Near the airstrip, next to the Mikumi rangers’ base, there are quite a few herbivores. They find a bit more peace here—the big cats don’t venture this way...

Our first encounter was a group of Masai giraffes.

Rarer (for us), a savanna monitor lizard basking in the sun right in the middle of the track...??

A large gathering of impalas (mostly males) along with a few blue wildebeest:

Also unusual: a African crowned hornbill taking a dust bath in the middle of the track...!!

When it comes to identifying mammals or birds, I don’t know everything... so I might make mistakes. Please forgive me. I’m counting on my friend Blesl’s active participation... 😉

...

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