Discussion · VoyageForum

This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.

Original post

Ericb

RegularEvian · 133 posts

2012-09-01

Pas de jet-lag à craindre cette année pour notre voyage estival avec nos 3 post-ados (18-18-20 ans ) : après des escapades plutôt “asiatiques” et “américaines” (liens vers les comptes-rendus sur mon profil ) , cet été cap plein sud sur Le Cap , le Swaziland , le Kruger .. Voici donc un modeste pseudo “carnet de voyage” mêlant récit , avis, impressions , éventuels conseils , .... à destination des futurs voyageurs désireux de braver l’hiver austral et de ceux qui nous ont aidés à préparer ce petit périple ; il n’est que le reflet de notre propre première expérience forcément superficielle et parcellaire de ce pays , sans plus !

Itinéraire rapide ( 5->23 Aout) (que du “classique” ; pas le temps en 16 jours de sortir des sentiers battus mais incontournables ! ) ; il semblerait à la lecture du forum que le circuit se fasse plus souvent dans l’autre sens ... : pour nous , on a apprécié commencer par la fraicheur, finir par la (relative ) chaleur et débuter “molo” par quelques zèbres à Cape Vidal , finir en apothéose par un léopard dans le Kruger (pas évident à planifier ... ) ; c’est le premier voyage ou on a été amené à booker des hébergements (Kruger) avant même d’avoir les vols !

J1-J4 : CapeTown ( Hout Bay : Poplar Tree Lodge) J5-J6 : vol Cape Town – Durban ; voiture –>StLucia (Hippo Hideaway) J7-J8 : Hluhluwe (Hill Top) J9-J10 : Swaziland (Ezulwini -Mantenga lodge ) J11-J13 :Kruger ( Berg en Dal + 2 nuits Olifants) J13-J15: Blyde River (Forever Blyde resort) J16 :Joburg (Gecko Ridge Guesthouse)

VOLS : Turkish Airlines : Genève –> Cape Town (escale Istanbul 2h + escale technique Joburg) ; retour Joburg –> Genève billets pris en février : –> environ 800 eur - B777 “neufs” + service à bord excellent (repas + écrans individuels) ; vols de nuit Cape Town –>Durban : via lowcost Kulula -attention vs respect du poids de chacun des bagages sinon, ras (on a aimé l’humour de l’équipage dans l’avion !)

GUIDES PAPIERS UTILISES : le routard (l’ai trouvé plutôt pas mal vs moyenne générale) ; guide Voir ( toujours intéressant pour les mini-photos et certains plans détaillés) ; LP (pour le circuit effectué qui est très classique, je pense qu’on aurait pu éviter cette fois le pavé ) + photo–guide des animaux d’Afrique ; ne pas hésiter à se procurer à Hluhluwe le guide-plan des réserves du Zululand , et dans le Kruger idem ( existe en français) – les principaux animaux y sont “décrits” donc on peut finalement se passer d’un autre guide-papier sachant que les boutiques du Kruger regorgent d’ouvrages animaliers pour ceux qui désirent approfondir ...

CARTES-GPS : essentiellement pour Le Cap , Joburg ... GPS très utile -plutôt que de louer , en acheter un sur place , ou mieux , pour ceux qui ont déjà un Garmin se procurer sur le net le “city navigator Southern Africa” en carte sd ; dans ce cas , cartes routières évidemment inutiles – dans les parcs , les guides ci-dessus ont donc des cartes détaillées indispensables ( toutes les pistes, les view points, points d’eau, etc ... )

LOCATION DE VOITURE –CONDUITE : via “Tempest car hire” (pour Cape Town puis pour Durban –>Joburg) – zéro problème (résa internet , non payée avant le départ) – véhicule = Daihatsu Terios : type SUV 2*4 , parfaitement adapté aux pistes du Kruger ( 4*4 non nécessaire, mais garde assez haute utile) ; lors de la prise du véhicule , bien faire noter les éventuelles rayures .... comme très probablement le nombre aura augmenté suite passage au ras des épineux sur les pistes, évite d’avoir à laisser la caution à la fin du parcours ... ; le Terios est un 7 places, mais avec les bagages 2e banquette arrière inutilisable – à 5 , confort un peu limite pour 3 adultes sur la banquette arrière sur de longues distances ... on s’habitue vite à la conduite à gauche (exceptée la position clignotant /essuie-glaces) ; les routes que nous avons empruntées étaient généralement peu fréquentées , assez rectilignes , avec un revêtement correct malgré quelques “potholes” – conduite “locale” sans problème et bien moins “exotique” que ce que j’imaginais (même les camions se rangent sur le bas-coté pour laisser les véhicules doubler ) - vu un radar mobile (le seul ? ) vers Mbabane au Swaziland .... les pistes empruntées dans les parcs sont faciles , peu cassantes , bien indiquées, sans risques de se retrouver dans des “culs de sac” (en anglais dans le texte) ou des positions inconfortables - pas de crevaison pour nous, et on n’a croisé personne en galère ... ; les stations service sont nombreuses (including quelques pompes “exotiques” dans les camps des parcs) , le carburant meilleur marché qu’en France (11 rand/litre environ) , les CB généralement acceptées .... et les pare-brises souvent lavés par les pompistes ... ; pour la traversée du Swaziland, ne pas oublier de demander le formulaire adhoc lors de la prise du véhicule (sinon, c’est noway pour entrer ... ) ; au total , on a du quand même faire environ 3000km

RESTAURANTS : globalement , on a “bien mangé “ avec des tarifs bien inférieurs à la France sauf dans le Kruger ou les restos des camps ont tous la même carte basique (modulo quelques variantes au buffet) qui permet de se sustenter mais pas de tenter une quelconque expérience gastronomique (mais on ne venait pas dans le Kruger avec cet objectif ! ) ; au bout de 3 jours on finit par se lasser , mais à l’inverse on ne voulait pas "”se compliquer la vie” en s’approvisionnant pour tenter le barbecue/ braai Restos intéressants testés (voir tripadvisor pour avis complémentaires ... ) : Hout Bay : Wharfside grill et Lookout deck sur le port : parce qu’après dans le Kruger, sera plus difficile de trouver du poisson ... Cape Town : Mama Africa : pour les viandes "locales “ type koudou/impala et l’ambiance musicale ( assez touristique , mais ca passe ....) St Lucia : Braza + Ocean basket : même maison –excellent rapport qualité prix les restos (souvent buffets) “contraints “ par nos hébergements ( Hilltop (Hluhluwe) - Mantenga lodge (Ezulwini) – Forever blyde ) se sont avérés “corrects “ last but nos least : le VIN !!!!!!!!! : c’est quasiment le premier voyage où je n’ai pas été forcé ( ? ) à me rabattre sur les bières locales , sans pour autant gréver le budget nourriture du voyage : les vins sur les cartes sont nombreux , variés et à des tarifs “amazing” (100-150 rands) proches de ceux des détaillants : on croit rêver ..... ; on a privilégié (avec modération , bien entendu) ... les cépages peu ou pas connus en France type “pinotage” ..et on n’a jamais été déçus : un vrai coup de coeur durant ce voyage !

HEBERGERGEMENTS Rien à jeter dans la liste ci-dessus : pas de mauvaises surprises suite aux résas ( il faut dire que fréquemment il faut payer à l’avance dans les parcs ou à minima donner un numéro de CB ) , “typologie” assez variée ( safe catering à Hout bay , guest house à Joburg, bungalows dans les camps , hôtel plus classique à St Lucia) ; wifi sauf évidemment dans les camps (on peut survivre sans ...) ; réservations pour le Kruger début février .....et c’était déjà limite (pour 2 bungalows) pour les dates souhaitées

CLIMAT : ( 5->23 aout ) Cape Town et environs : pas de surprise vue la saison : frais , assez humide , et plutôt venté .... ; donc évidemment s’équiper en conséquence (pour nous, 1 ou 2 polaires + un coupe-vent suffisaient) St Lucia->Kruger : top !!!! : chaud (mais pas trop et nuits moins “fraiches “ que prévu ) , sec , peu de nuages ; avait neigé sur Joburg quelques jours auparavant , mais difficile à croire lors de notre passage

SANTE : question rituelle : antipalu ou pas ? en famille, ai tranché pour prise de Malarone dans la zone à risque ( donc de St Lucia au Kruger) , car pas envie de prendre de risque, ni d’être stressé à la vue du moindre insecte volant , ni de prendre l’attirail moustiquaire/manche longues etc ... ; au final (mais je m’en doutais ! ) pas croisé un seul moustique durant notre séjour , et vue la fraicheur du soir de toute manière on était “couverts” ; après , chacun prendra sa décision ! sinon, strictement aucun souci avec la nourriture, ni avec l’eau (sous-entendu Immodium pas utilisé .... )

ARGENT : ATM nombreux (donc pas nécessaire d’emmener du liquide en euros ou de changer avant) ; CB visa et très souvent AMEX acceptées presque partout

A NE PAS OUBLIER : une multi-prise ...et acheter ensuite l’adaptateur spécifique Af.sud en arrivant à l’aéroport une paire de jumelles ( des compactes de bonne qualité , peu encombrantes pour le voyage , se sont avérées suffisantes) un zoom .... (on n’est pas des fondus de photo , nous contentons souvent d’un APN “étanche” bien résistant pour le voyage , mais cette fois le zoom assez puissant de notre APN compact s’est avéré indispensable pour “capturer” les bestioles parfois un peu lointaines ...)

INSECURITE : ???? pas vue !!!

JOUR APRES JOUR ..... (activités, tops, flops ... ) :

CAPE TOWN et “environs” : en 3 jours pleins , évidemment il a fallu faire des choix et des impasses ... (type “route des vins” peu à même de déclencher l’enthousiasme de nos enfants) , donc le résultat fut pour nous :

- la route cotière Hout Bay –> Le Cap est magnifique ... la plage de Llandludno également (y descendre !) .... vus dès le premier jour des baleines depuis la côte et au loin une gros “troupeau “ de dauphins ...

- Table Mountain : un répondeur téléphonique indique en live si le téléphérique fonctionne ou pas en fonction de la météo – à bien utiliser avant de décider d’y aller puisque probabilité non nulle que les conditions soient KO et prévoir en conséquence de la flexibilité dans le programme au Cap ( on a attendu J3 avant d’avoir un créneau...) ; conséquence: certains jours le site est bondé , et la queue pour le téléphérique ( pour les fainéants comme nous qui ne voulions pas y grimper à pied) significative ; astuce : on peut shunter une partie de l’attente en achetant sur le net les billets ( qu’on a fait imprimer sur place par la très serviable gestionnaire du Poplar tree lodge ) , billets que l’on peut au pire se faire rembourser si inutilisés .. ; la vue au sommet , une petite balade sur “la table” sont vraiment des must et ont justifié (pour nous ) cette petite organisation ..

-Hermanus : on voulait vraiment voir des baleines de “très près” , Hermanus était le site approprié , la période censée être idéale .... : pas de chance : zéro baleine à l’horizon le jour où on a fait l’aller –retour depuis Le Cap !!!!! (trop de vent , paraît-il) ; mais peu importe : la route côtière à partir de Gordon’s bay est superbe , et à Betty’s bay , on peut voir une colonie de manchots : bizarrement , le site est beaucoup moins connu que celui de Simon’s town ( boulders) , donc on échappe aux tours organisés (manque juste la photogénique et célèbre plage de sable de boulders) mais les manchots sont les mêmes et l’endroit est beaucoup plus sauvage !

- Duiker (seal) island à Hout Bay : petit tour ( 50 ‘ chrono) en bateau pour aller voir les otaries à fourrure sur leur petit îlot - pas cher – nombreux départs le matin : vraiment à faire !

- Cap de Bonne espérance : encore un “must” : après la montée au phare et les vues sublimes, bien descendre au Cape of good hope lui-même pour notamment la photo des autruches en bord de mer et le célèbre cliché derrière le panneau “Cape of good hope” .... .vus également damans , babouins .. Et puis toute la route Simon’s town –> Cape of Good hope –>Chapman ‘s peak est magnifique ( à faire dans ce sens )

- Kirstenboch gardens : à proximité de Hout Bay, donc on s’y est baladés , mais ne nous laissera pas un souvenir impérissable bien que considéré (dixit les guides) comme “un des plus beaux du monde” ; sans doute à réserver aux “botanistes” ! On a vu assez peu de fleurs....

- Cape Town : en fonction des choix précédents , on s’est contentés d’un rapide sight seeing (waterfront , resto dans City bowl ) sans frustration ... ; idem zappé Robben island notamment suite commentaires partagés sur les forums

- white sharks : ....ce devait être un grand moment du voyage ; volontairement j’avais réservé un tour départ Simon’s town ( –>Seal island- False bay ) pour avoir la chance d’assister au “breaching” plutôt que d’aller à Gansbaai (l’objectif n’était pas spécialement de se faire peur en plongeant dans la cage ...) ; mais la sortie a été annulée par le skipper ( trop de vent ) , idem pour le back up du lendemain ; la seule satisfaction aura donc d’avoir économisé un petit paquet de rands ...

ST LUCIA : - la “petite” croisière sur l’estuaire est sympa : permet de voir les hippos de très près (plus que dans le Kruger ) et pas mal d’oiseaux type aigle-pêcheur , king fisher... (faire celle départ 16h , plus d’activité sur le fleuve ... ) - la balade au coucher de soleil sur l’estuary beach est également bien agréable à pied : première fois de ma vie où je voyais sur un même panneau d’avertissement de danger la trilogie (big 3 ? ): hippos-crocos-requins !!!!!!! - Cape Vidal : par hasard (pas de carte à l’entrée du parc ...) on a pris la piste (vers l’ouest) juste avant Cape Vidal (Lake Bhangazi ) ; bien nous en a pris , premiers zèbres/phacochères/buffles et rhino du séjour !

HLUHLUWE -IMFOLOZI:

nous avons dû patienter une bonne heure à l’entrée nord du parc (Memorial gate) , le temps que le front d’un incendie ( volontaire) traverse la route principale ... ; puis , une fois la barrière levée , on a d’abord pris un rapide coup de chaud en léchant les flammes , et on a fini par croiser un ranger qui nous a intimé l’ordre de le suivre sur une piste pour contourner le feu, la fumée .... ; (bon , on n’est pas en Europe où on aurait été bloqués toute la journée .. ) ; ça nous a permis d’avoir la vision surréaliste d’une girafe seule (et pas dérangée ... ) au milieu des arbustes calcinés , et de constater par la suite que la plupart des animaux avaient fui “vers le sud” (Umfolozi) épargné par le feu .

- forts de cette info, on a consacré la journée complète du lendemain dans le parc plutôt au secteur sud –ouest (Mpila et pistes vers rivière Imfolozi ) et donc croisé comme espéré N Rhinos (blancs apparemment) ( pas de fauves , 1 seul éléphant) ; comparativement au Kruger vu après, Hluhluwe nous a semblé plus “vallonné” , les pistes sont également en excellent état, et on y a croisé encore moins de voitures

SWAZILAND :

- le passage des douanes ( Lavumisa et Jeep’s reef pour nous ) est assez “exotique” ( bien compter 30’ pour les N tampons, taxes , formulaires ...)

- pas mal de choses à faire en logeant dans la vallée d’Ezulwini : pour nous les ”artisans “ de swazi candles ( bougies psychédéliques en forme de rhinos , hippos ...) +gone rural , le musée du King Shobuza ( pas indispensable ) et la réserve Mlilwane

- Mlilwane : parcourue moitié en voiture et moitié en VTT ( puisque pas de fauves) ce qui permet de se dégourdir les jambes entre les game drive d’Hluhluwe et du Kruger ; on a tenté un petit sentier bien agréable type “single track “ en vtt qui longe la partie est du réservoir , nous a permis de passer assez près des hippos , de croiser un phacochère ....puis plus loin vus des hippotragues, un aigle serpentaire .. ; à déplorer une crevaison , qq kms sur la jante car pas de nécessaire de réparation fourni à la location ...mais c’est du détail !

- à la sortie nord (35km) de Mbabane , on a fait un stop à la mine de fer de Ngwenya : on paye à l’entrée de la mine , et le gardien vous donne les clés du musée rien que vous ... sur la route on peut visiter rapidement la verrerie “artisanale “ de Ngwenya ( intéressant , et si on veut continuer dans le kitch après la bougie buffle , le bock en forme de tête d’éléphant !!!)

- vers Pigg’s Peak , le petit détour vers les “Phophonyane Falls" vaut la peine , autant pour la cascade que pour la halte idyllique au lodge

En résumé , on a bien aimé cette traversée rapide du Swaziland

KRUGER:

-les big 5 !!!!!!! : mission accomplie ! : très facile pour buffles ( un gros troupeau est notamment passé tôt le matin juste devant notre lodge à Berg en dal ) , éléphants ( vus un peu partout durant nos 3 jours dans le parc) ; facile pour les rhinos (quoi que moins nombreux qu’à Hluhluwe , et souvent non signalés sur les cartes des camps pour éviter le braconnage) ; un peu moins simple pour les lions ( mais on a fini par tomber plusieurs fois sur des voitures ou des véhicules de rangers qui en avaient repérés , et on a eu la chance de croiser sur la route une troupe de lionnes (on a été bien obligés de relever les vitres du Terios ...)); comme prévu , le léopard s’est fait attendre , mais on a fini (bien aidés par les voitures croisées ..) par en débusquer un le dernier jour dans sa position classique diurne ( = dormant sur une grosse branche) ; en bonus , un guépard (pas si fréquents dans le Kruger selon chiffres annoncés) ; plutôt que de lister ce qu’on a vu , il serait plus rapide d’énumérer ce que nous avons “manqué” tant la densité de la faune est impressionnante au Kruger : donc pas vus parmi les “stars “ : galago/chacal/ lycaon ; pas de “regret” de ne pas avoir incorporé dans le circuit une nuit dans une réserve privée puisqu’au final on a eu la chance de voir “l’essentiel”

-circuit : J1 : Berg-en-dal–>Skukuza->Lower sabie –>Satara –> Olifants (un peu “juste” en un jour ) ; J2 : Olifants->Letaba->Satara->Sweni->Satar->Olifants ; J3 : Olifants->Satara-> sortie Orpen ; en fait, on a fait relativement peu de pistes car , d’une part les distances sont assez importantes au Kruger , et d’autre part les routes étant (un peu ) plus fréquentées , on risque moins de “rater” les animaux ; les muscles qui travaillent le plus durant les game drive au Kruger sont les muscles oculaires et en fin de journée on a vite fait de louper un lion dans la savane si l’attention se relâche ! 3 jours nous ont semblé “suffisants” pour avoir notre dose de faune sauvage dans les conditions de visite du Kruger ( c’est-à-dire le plus souvent au volant) , mais bien évidemment, on n’ a parcouru qu’une petite partie du sud ; pas fait de game drive de jour avec les rangers , ni de ”bush walk” , simplement un “night drive” à Olifants (réservé J-1 sur place) : nous a permis de voir des hyènes , un hippo et moults steenboks mais rien de plus ( après , comme dab, question de chance ... ) (ps : nuits fraiches –> se couvrir au max pour le night drive ; ils prêtent une couverture)

- warning : c’est bien précisé qu’il est interdit de rouler la nuit et de rentrer au camp après 18h ; sans le vouloir ( difficile de tenir une moyenne quand on croise un troupeau d’éléphants toutes les 15’... ) .... on a rejoint Olifants vers 18h30 : mise à part l’excitation d’avoir croisé une hyène au bord de la route à la nuit tombante , c’est assez “flippant” d’avoir à rouler de nuit , car stress permanent de croiser des animaux et d’entrer en collision avec eux (donc je déconseille ...) ;en plus, à l’arrivée à Olifants on nous a ouvert la barrière moyennant une inscription sur le registre des retardataires ( registre ouvert à 18h02 , on ne plaisante pas avec les horaires ...) et le paiement d’une amende de 1500rands ... ( que finalement on n’ a pas du payer : privilège du touriste étranger un peu naïf ??? )

BLYDE RIVER et environs :

En se concentrant sur les points de vue principaux , on parvient en une journée (départ –retour Forever blyde resort) à enchainer Blyde river /3 Rondavels / Bourke’s potholes / Pilgrim’s rest , une partie de la route des cascades (à postériori , on aurait pu shunter God’s window /Pinnacle moins “spectaculaires “ mais il faut dire que le temps était plutôt brumeux pour nous et donc visibilité moyenne) ; toutes les cascades visitées se ressemblent un peu , donc difficile d’en conseiller une particulière ( Mac mac falls peut –être .... ) ; à chaque cascade/point de vue , l’accès ( parking ) est payant ( et le tarif variable : zéro logique ! ) , on trouve les mêmes stands à souvenirs ( fabriqués où ??? ) , et tout est fermé à 17h (donc partir assez tôt le matin ) ; Pilgrim’s rest mérite le détour (si on est dans le secteur ) :parmi les différents bâtiments visitables, bien aimé le “Royal hôtel” et son resto , et moins de touristes que ce que je craignais ; au final une journée variée , avec des paysages qui tranchent bien après 3 jours “ à plat”’ dans le Kruger

Johannesbourg /Cullinan :

- on avait en gros une journée disponible sur le secteur avant de décoller ; donc pas facile de faire des choix à même d’intéresser toute la famille , sachant que j’excluais toute réserve/parc supplémentaire après le Kruger ; bilan des courses : mine de diamants de Cullinan (visite guidée à 14h) après avoir quitté Blyde River le matin ( faisable sans problème ) et le lendemain matin Gold Reef mine + musée de l’apartheid (2 sites au même endroit )

- la visite de la mine de Cullinan (durée 2h : à réserver impérativement avant, via leur site internet ) a bien plu à tous (sous-entendu , pas réservée à des passionnés de minéralogie) : la mine est en fonctionnement ( on traverse les installations extérieures en tongs mais casqués , le “trou “ est impressionnant ... ) , le petit musée est bien “foutu “ et nous étions seuls avec la guide ; en comparaison, la visite le lendemain de l’ancienne mine d’or de Gold reef est bien entendu beaucoup plus touristique , avec néanmoins une partie “souterraine “ intéressante (zappé la partie Disneyland de Gold reef , ce n’était pas l’objectif du jour ...)

- musée de l’apartheid vraiment bien fait et “prenant” , sans nécessairement avoir un niveau en anglais excellent ; avec un jour de plus , on aurait sans doute enchainé sur les townships de Soweto à vélo , mais faire les 2 le même jour aurait été de trop , tant la visite du musée marque déjà fortement les esprits

CONCLUSION .... :

qu’est ce qu’on n’ a pas aimé : rien ..... ; des regrets ... : pas de baleines à Hermanus , raté les requins blancs .... si c’était à refaire ... : pareil !.... , bien que finalement on ait eu assez peu de contacts avec les locaux puisque le voyage était essentiellement orienté “nature” ; même si nécessité de prendre un vol interne ensuite , ça vaut la peine à mon avis d’inclure quelques jours à Cape Town (pour la durée dont on disposait ) plutôt que de faire une simple boucle départ Johannesbourg : paysages et faune sont complètement différents , et on n’a pas eu l’impression de “bâcler” quoi que ce soit sur l’itinéraire ; tout s’est avéré “facile” sur place , et on est donc prêts pour une seconde expérience africaine , sans doute un peu moins “bornée” (Namibie ?!)

questions, commentaires bien entendu bienvenus ..et prochainement un lien vers quelques images ...

BL Bluequark Veteran ·2012-09-03

Bonjour,

Merci pour ce retour plein d'infos pratiques. Voici des idées pour un prochain voyage. J'aime bien le sens dans lequel vous avez fait le parcours.

Bon, j'espère que ton post restera bien là.

Bluequark

Carnets : Namibie, Laos-Perhentias-BKK, Ouest US, Lanzarote, New-York, Berlin, Cuba, Bardenas Reales, AFS -Lesotho-Swaziland, Japon et le dernier né Colombie: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/ete-2017-trois-semaines-en-colmobie-en-famille-d10108246/

Rjulie95 Globetrotter ·2012-09-03

Merci pour toutes ses infos qui m'aideront bien dans la finalisation de mon voyage en AFS

"Je suis africain, non pas parce que je suis né en Afrique, mais parce que l'Afrique est née en moi." Kwame Nkrumah.

"J'ai appris que le courage n'est pas l'absence de peur, mais la capacité de la vaincre." Nelson Mandela

https://www.en-voyages.fr

Alanay Veteran ·2012-09-03

Carnets de voyage : voir mon profil (Lanzarote - New York - Namibie - Vietnam - Angkor - Ouest USA)

ES Esethi Veteran ·2012-09-03

Bonjour et merci pour ce compte-rendu détaillé d'un séjour bien équilibré, animaux/paysages, bord de mer/intérieur des terres... Visiblement, vous avez été gâtés avec les animaux, les Big 5, avec léopard et guépard... quels chanceux vous faites !

A bientôt pour les photos... Christine

Voyajou Globetrotter ·2012-09-05

Merci Eric pour ces infos concrètes.

Puis-je oser:

“typologie” assez variée ( safe catering à Hout bay

INSECURITE : ???? pas vue !!!

La voilà la solution: le self catering, c'est plus safe!😉

Ericb Regular ·2012-09-07

Bonsoir Eric,

Merci pour ce beau retour. De beaux paysages, des animaux sauvages, un mélange terre / mer, des ballades et du VTT, pas d’insécurité … et du bon vin, voilà des vacances dont on doit se souvenir longtemps. Bravo pour le big 5 !... qui mérite au moins 5 photos !

Armelle

il suffit de demander !!!!!!!!!!!

pour corser un peu , voici donc les big 5 "de face " , par 1 , 2 ou 4.... au choix , du plus "facile" au plus "difficile" ! garanti 100 % Kruger , sans trucage ni emprunt

Alanay Veteran ·2012-09-11

Bonsoir Eric,

Superbes ces photos, surtout celle des lionnes. Est elle prise avec un super zoom ou bien sont elles passées si près de vous ? Et dans la famille, rhino, je demande le fils...😉. Pour nous, cet été, en Namibie, on se s'est jamais lassé de regarder les petits. Le petit zèbre au pelage encore tout bouillonnant, le girafon qui veut jouer au grand, l'éléphanteau qui course les gazelles, ... Trop forts ces animaux.

Armelle

Carnets de voyage : voir mon profil (Lanzarote - New York - Namibie - Vietnam - Angkor - Ouest USA)

AU Auvergne ·2012-10-19

Merci pour ces infos, je pense que nous allons faire le même circuit, et dans ce sens...

J'espére qu'un sweet et coupe vent seront suffisants, puisque ce sera l'automne. ( 18 Avril

au 2 Mai.)

Claire.

auvergne

Rjulie95 Globetrotter ·2012-10-19

Superbe c'est photos avec tout plein de petits ....

Tasssili Regular ·2012-10-23

Merci pour ce retour et ces quelques belles photos qui font toujours rêver :)... cette destination nous trotte toujours dans la tête ...mais je ne suis pas sur que nos enfants suivront encore comme les tiens ...

...comme tu en parles ... la Namibie est un must , qui a beaucoup de passionnés sur ce forum 😉

bonne préparation de prochain voyage...!

Mimimak ·2012-11-30

quelle chance!!

j y suis allé l'an dernier : elephant et lion pas vu!!!!!!!!!!!! dégouté

😊

Line974 Regular ·2012-12-12

Bonjour Eric, Merci pour ce récit qui me permet également d'organiser mon prochain voyage. Par contre, je ne comprends pas quand vous dites "pour la traversée du Swaziland, ne pas oublier de demander le formulaire adhoc lors de la prise du véhicule (sinon, c’est noway pour entrer ... )" ... Comme j'aurai une voiture depuis Jo'burg quand je vais arriver au Swaziland, je dois demander ce document ? C'est peut-être parce que vous avez loué votre voiture au Swaziland ? Si vous pouvez m'éclairer, merci.

Voyajou Globetrotter ·2012-12-12

Bonjour Line, Cela signifie que tu dois informer ton loueur de ton intention d'aller au Swaziland: il te remettra une autorisation de quitter le territoire sud-africain pour le véhicule (moyennant parfois un supplément).

Ericb Regular ·2012-12-12

bonsoir Line Voyajou a répondu en 5' chrono ... donc je confirme : formulaire à demander en prenant la voiture en afsud ( donc pour nous c'etait à Durban ; les loueurs ont l'habitude ) ;

cdt

Reyanud69400 ·2013-01-26

bonjour, nous avons prévue de partir en ADS en avril avec nos 2 enfants ( 9 et 15 ans) et j'ai très peur de l'insécurité, les sites officiels sont plutot alarmistes sur les risque d'agression de viols et de vols. Avez-vous ressenti cela et quels conseils pouvez-vous nous donner?

Ericb Regular ·2013-01-26

bonsoir aucune insécurité ressentie durant le séjour ; c'est d'ailleurs l'impression générale qui ressort quand on lit les comptes-rendus sur ce forum ou l'autre .... ; après évidemment en cherchant on trouvera toujours quelqu'un qui a eu une expérience malheureuse .... et d'autre part évidemment aussi il y a un certains endroits à éviter ( comme en france et comme dans bcp de pays ! )

Diamina Globetrotter ·2013-04-10

salut Eric,

Merci pour ce partage et de m'avoir signalé ton carnet. Est-ce possible d'avoir des photos de cape town et environs.

C'est une partie sur laquelle je suis un peux sceptique.

Merci et à bientôt!

Nord Chili, NOA, Sud Lipez, La Paz août 2012 https://voyageforum.com/forum/mois_dans_andes_peripeties_en_altitude_D5526293/ Apologie du southwest en hiver https://voyageforum.com/forum/apologie_sud-ouest_etats-unis_en_hiver_D5851267/ Impressions d'Afrique et de Namibie

Laura59 ·2013-05-18

BONJOUR ERIC superbes photos, ça donne envie, je commence tout juste à organiser 1 voyage avec 2 ados de 3 semaines en Afrique du Sud, le Kruger et ses big fives est notre centre d'intérêt premier , avec la nature aussi. Quels logements recommandeiez vous pour le Kruger (pas de camping pour nous) et par quel site puisqu'il faut s'y prendre à l'avance, je pense commencer par ça :-) merci à l'avance Laura🙂

laura59

Ericb Regular ·2013-05-18

bonsoir !

pour la résa kruger, c'est via le site classique :http://www.sanparks.org/parks/kruger/ en s'y prenant quelques mois à l'avance si tu veux avoir de la place dans ceux que tu auras pré-choisis ; des spécialistes sur ce forum ( ou le voisin ..) qui ont écumé le kruger te répondront mieux que moi quant au choix, mais ceux qu'on a faits étaient très corrects : Olifants est généralement plébiscité notamment pour sa vue sur la rivière , berg en dal est proche de l'entrée donc assez pratique - lower sabie est souvent cité, mais était déjà plein quand j'avais voulu le réserver

cdt

Laura59 ·2013-05-19

bonjour, merci beaucoup pour toutes ces infos, c'est donc décidé, je vais préparer 1 roadtrip de 3 à 4 semaines pour Aout 2014, tout 1er voyage en Afrique du Sud...d'abord 3 semaines en Toscane à prépare pour juillet... bon dimanche 😎 Laura

laura59

Reyanud69400 ·2013-05-20

bonjour, nous revenons de 11 j en afrique du sud avec les enfants ( 9 et 15 ans), nous avons fait johannesburg jusqu'au Kruger en voiture. Nous avions une reserve privée dans sabi sand puis nous étions au prestorius camp dans le kruger. Nous avons ensuite pris l'avion, direction le cap. c'est un pays fabuleux, les paysages sont magiques . si tu veux des renseignements, n'hésite pas. pascale

Laura59 ·2013-05-20

bonjour Pascale, merci pour ces infos, je reviendrai vers vous quend j'aurai davantage "potassé" le voyage avec plaisir, merci! Quant au safari privé, les sorties en 4X4 sont elles possibles pour qq qui a des problèmes de dos? (opération qui laisse des traces....) J'ai, normalement, une belle maison d'échange pres de Johannesbourg ainsi qu'une voiture, et du coup, nous resterons 4 semaines en aout 2014 :-) Par quelle compagnie d'avion avez vous voyagé car je vois des escales au Caire, où je n'ai pas trop envie d'attendre... à bientôt Laura

laura59

AU Auvergne ·2013-05-20

Bonjour Laura, et aussi Voyajou, Attilla, Eric etc.....enfin tous ceux grace à qui j'ai pu faire un magnifique voyage en ADS...

Nous sommes partis en famille ( 8 personnes, dont 2 enfants de 12 et 9 ans.) Celle de12 ans a payé tarif adulte partout....j'aurais peut être pu tricher, vu qu'elle a la même taille que sa soeur de 9 ans, mais je n'ai pas voulu courir le risque...

Nous sommes partis du 17 Avril au 4 Mai. Vol Air France Aller Retour. Lyon CDG en TGV inclus dans le prix du billet, idem pour le retour Donc billet Lyon part Dieu Cape Town et retour Johannesbourg Lyon Part-Dieu. Réservé le 17 novembre 2012. Prix :944 euros. Vol direct, de nuit, durée : environ 11H. Nous étions attendus à Cape town, taxi réservé par l'intermédiaire de notre logement, c'est agréable après un vol de nuit ... Installation à AMBER TREE LODGE pour 4 nuits. Accueil chaleureux de Wayne et une mine d'infos. Backpacker bien situé tout en étant tranquille. Nous disposions de l'étage : 3 chambres, dont une avec salle de bains et wc privé. Petit dej sommaire inclus, et si vous ne voulez pas cuisiner, resto " ocean basket " à deux pas...excellent rapport qualité prix. Pour la visite de Cape Town, j'avais réservé des billets de bus " city sightseeing " excellente alternative au véhicule individuel. Sur place, nous avons réservé une journée avec un prestataire local pour aller voir les pingouins à Boulder's et faire le Cap de Bonne Espérance, pendant que les courageux se levaient à 3H du matin pour aller plonger dans une eau glaciale à Gansbaii....( grand blanc oblige ! )

Lundi 22 Avril : vol Cape Town Durban, avec Kulula. Réservation faite aussi par internet le 8 janvier.Prix 943 Rand.

Durban, prise en mains du véhicule : nous avions opté pour un Quantum, mais c'est un Volswagen ( 6000 kms ) qu 'on nous a remis...nous n'avons pas perdu au change ! réservation faite en décembre avec Rentalcars.com, le loueur était Hertz. Restitution du véhicule à l'aéroport de Joburg, rapide, efficace, zéro problèmes.

Durban San lucia, conduite à gauche, ça roule... 2 nuits à San Lucia, à " little eden " qui porte bien son nom. Carrément un appartement avec 3 chambres, 2 salles de bains balcon etc...le paradis, et des hôtesses charmantes. à recommander.

2 nuits en safari-tente à Imfolosi...le camping grand luxe !!! à M'pila. un parc magnifique avec une densité d'animaux époustouflante : rhinos, girafes, etc...et la hyène qui se promène au pied des terrasses de tentes....le soir ! Nous n'avons pas eu le temps de faire Hluhluwe. Un merveilleux souvenir.

2 nuits à Barberton, haut lieu du parapente. nous avons fait quelques petits vols, et surtout baptême de vol pour les petites !!! Par contre, logement: FOUNTAIN BATHS GUEST HOUSE, à déconseiller pour un groupe....

3 nuits dans le Kuger : 1 à Crocodile bridge 1 à Satara 1 à Olifants Réservations faites le 24 Décembre.

1 nuit à Graskop : BLUE SWALLOW CHALETS !!!!à déconseiller, on s'est gelés, pas du tout adapté pour 8 personnes, aucun chauffage etc...Mais un vendeur très original, d'excellent biltong dans la ville, et bien sur, comme vous dites tous, les pancakes de chez Harry's ( doivent monter les blancs en neige pour avoir ce résultat !!! ) Dernière nuit à Middelburg, à l'excellente guest house : Del Roza. Le top des guest houses... chambres spacieuses, agréables, un petit déj "pantagruélique ", un personnel adorable particulièrement, Donner, qui vous accueille. Route pour l'aéroport, restitution du véhicule...c'est fini🙁 Nous avons fait 1 game walk à Imfolosi et un autre au Kruger...cardiaques, s'abstenir...nez à ...cornes de rhinos ( 10m ) idem éléphant... Back Back.... Affrontement avec un éléphant en rût lors d'un night game!!!! Toutes les réservations ont été faites à l'avance par internet, la plupart des prestataires font les prélévememts bancaires aussitôt. le linge de toilette était founi partout.

Si c'était à refaire, je prendrais 4 à 5 jours supplémentaires pour rester 2 nuits partout.....mais pourquoi la durée des vacances est elle plus courte que celle du travail ? Y 'a quelque chose qui cloche....

J'espère que celà pourra aider ceux qui se posent des questions. Insécurité: pas vue.. Pays très facile à visiter.

Bon voyage à ceux qui partent, l'Afrique du Sud ne vous décevra pas..

Claire.

auvergne

Rjulie95 Globetrotter ·2013-05-20

Dernière nuit à Middelburg, à l'excellente guest house : Del Roza. Le top des guest houses... chambres spacieuses, agréables, un petit déj "pantagruélique ", un personnel adorable particulièrement, Donner, qui vous accueille.

Merci pour ce retour, tu m'as précédé chez Del Roza et je vois que la prestation est à la hauteur ... tant mieux ! ça approche :-)

Laura59 ·2013-05-20

merci, on va faire de beaux rêves !

laura59

Reyanud69400 ·2013-05-21

nous sommes parti avec air france, vol direct paris-johannesbourg et cap town -paris . en ce qui concerne la voiture en reserve privée, c'est une jeep qui est très haute d'où une meilleur vision, moi qui est aussi des problèmes de dos, je n'ai pas eu mal car il roule très doucement pour ne rien manquer, et connaisse les routes par coeur, du coup ils font plus attention .

Laurakrz Regular ·2013-11-19

bonjour, Merci pour votre post très détaillé ! Je prépare un périple d'1 mois en AFS avec 2 ados. Je cherche la meilleure solution pour réserver le Hilltop Camp chalet à Hluhluwe : il y a le site officiel et Amatikulu tours qui fait 10% de moins et propose des forfaits B&B&D, sinon le site officiel KNZwildlife? Comment avez vous fait? merci! Laura

laurakrz

CO Coolwahoo ·2013-11-19

Bonjour, Nous sommes partis cet été en Afrique du Sud. Pour Hiltop Camp, nous sommes passés par Amatikulu. Sur place, tout a été conforme à ce que nous avions réservé. Notre chalet comportait 2 chambres avec 2 lits. L'une d'entre elle avait une salle de bains attenante. A coté de l'autre chambre, il y avait une salle de toilette avec une douche. C'était très sympa. La vue était également magnifique. Juste une remarque, si tu veux accéder au sud du parc (Umfolozi), il te faut environ une heure de route depuis Hiltop. Bon voyage Alain

Laurakrz Regular ·2013-11-19

bonsoir, merci, je n'y comprends plus rien, il y a 1 heure, le giants et thendele étaient moins chers sur KNZwildlife officiel et là les prix ont augmentés, sur 1 autre ordi, j'ai un autre prix??? c'est un vrai casse-tête... Laura🙁

laurakrz

MY Mymove ·2016-04-04

merci pour ce retour, je vais lire comme il faut vos impressions et choix, en effet vous êtes le circuit le plus proche de me souhaits. bonne continuation Myriam

Pir971 Veteran ·2018-08-11

Bonjour Eric,

Concernant la place dans la voiture, te souviens tu combien de bagages vous aviez ? C’est une banquette à l’arrière ? Pas possible de plier un seul siège ?

Merci 🙂

Alaska 2018 : https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=9860356;#9860356 Afrique 2017 : https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=8661002;#8661002 Islande 2017 : https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=7818139;#7818139 Afrique 2015 : https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=7337116;#7337116

Ericb Regular ·2018-08-11

Bonsoir,

ça commence à faire loin ce voyage !!! plus trop de souvenirs mais en relisant mon post, c'était une Daihatsu Terios , donc il faut chercher sur google les photos pour avoir les réponses sur la taille du coffre par exemple ; de mémoire on devait avoir 2 gros sacs à roulettes + quelques petits , et d'après les photos banquette 1/3 -2/3 ... voilà !

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Attila yesterday

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---/---

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Montagnard74 yesterday · Djalma

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Hi everyone!

If you're looking for great tips and offbeat spots, if you love exploring uncharted parts of a country, if the exotic is your adrenaline, then move along!

Our 15 days in early May in this part of Turkey (a country I first discovered during a city trip to Istanbul in 2017) will only tread well-worn paths and revisit popular routes. Simply because I kept hoping until the very end that our flight to Jordan wouldn’t be canceled. Events in the Gulf proved me wrong, so we left with: Zero preparation. Not a single hotel booked (well, except the first one), no visits planned, just a flight ticket bought three weeks earlier. No guidebook, no app—just the desire to explore southern Turkey and Cappadocia, whose images and the chance to stretch our legs had caught my eye.

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The verdict? You’ll have to wait for the trip recap to find out!

The main idea of the trip is also relaxation.

So, the plan is Antalya for a few days, the Turkish Riviera for a few more, Cappadocia as the highlight, and a return via Antalya to wrap up the trip. And it was all planned by AI!

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MirandaMouse yesterday · Kurtinet

Mice in Switzerland, the Other Cheese Country!

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This will mostly be to share my impressions and some photos, with a few days' delay, but I'm starting this journal while I'm still here.

First, I'd like to thank those who helped me prepare for this trip.

I was able to organize this stay in one of the most expensive countries in the world thanks to the home-exchange principle. Not necessarily a direct swap, but through a points system, which is more practical for choosing where you want to go without it having to be a reciprocal exchange.

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Calisson94 yesterday

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Aleph240758 2 days ago

New adventures from Perpignan to Ranchi (Jharkhand)

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I quickly head to the Arc de Triomphe metro station, located 200 meters away: you have to cross the bridge along the bus parking lot, then walk through a large garden; the station is on the right before the garden entrance. The trip to the airport isn’t direct: I have to change at Tomasso and take the line to the airport, where I arrive at 1 PM.

At the Emirates counter, I learn my flight was just canceled due to the war in Iran; they offer me another flight for the next day. I have to wait at the airport until 7 PM before being taken to a hotel; the next morning, I’ll take a flight to Vienna (with an 8-hour layover), then an Air India flight to Delhi, and finally a flight to Kolkata. I agree: I don’t know Vienna, so it’ll be an unexpected discovery.

At 7 PM, a small group is taken to the hotel, 35 minutes from the airport, where we’re served a light dinner upon arrival.

March 3rd — A taxi picks me up at 6:30 AM; the flight to Vienna takes off at 9:30 AM and arrives at noon. I’m free until 7 PM; the metro is direct to the city center. The weather is pleasant and not too cold, luckily, since my clothes are light.

When I exit the metro, I spot the St. Stephen’s Cathedral tower in the distance and approach it: the roof, made of glazed tiles, is remarkable.

Entry is free, and the interior, a mix of Gothic and Baroque styles in the center, is stunning.

Not far from there is St. Anne’s Church

, also Baroque, adorned with beautiful frescoes

—a music concert adds an enchanting atmosphere to the visit. I continue my walk at random through the pedestrian streets lined with magnificent buildings: I’m charmed by the city.

Before heading back to the airport, I stop at a lovely tea salon. My flight will eventually leave with a delay.

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We’re happy to see each other and have a comforting evening together.

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Nathalie971 2 days ago

From Southern Shikoku, between land and sea, to the blue waters of Miyakojima and finally the Tokyo metropolis

From Southern Shikoku, between land and sea, to the blue waters of Miyakojima and finally Tokyo’s megacity

Hi everyone,

I have to admit, I really hesitated before deciding to write this travel journal... Writing one takes a lot of time and energy, and since this is my 4th trip, I wondered if it would even interest anyone other than myself (both for the discovery and the writing). But after a few people asked, "Are you going to write a journal?" and especially after rediscovering the joy of reading other travelers’ journals about Japan or elsewhere on this forum, I’ve decided to share my 4th installment in the Land of the Rising Sun here.

The itinerary: 27 full days, from late May to late June 2025, right in the middle of the rainy season, including:

-->13 days in Shikoku, from Kochi (Kochi Prefecture) to Matsuyama (Ehime Prefecture)

-->7 days in Miyakojima (Okinawa Prefecture)

-->7 days in Tokyo

The trip was decided on fairly last-minute again this year.

Since I regularly check flight prices to track fluctuations for this destination even without concrete plans, stumbling upon a slightly cheaper direct flight (900 €) than what I’d seen in previous months (around 1,200–1,400 € on average) for a Paris-Tokyo route with Japanese airline ANA was too tempting to resist the urge to return to this enchanting country. After much hesitation between exploring the San’in region (Matsue, Tottori, Yamaguchi) and Southern Shikoku, the decision was made—I took the plunge! The ticket is booked: Paris to Kochi with a layover in Tokyo, all with ANA, the airline I’d been dreaming of... for 1,120 € per person. Okay, it’s not cheap, but it’s better than in 2023.

Departure in 2 weeks! Now I just have to get everything ready!

Intense prep work over these next 2 weeks to:

finalize a more precise itinerary and reach an agreement—yep, because even though we both love Japan, our preferences differ slightly, and we have to choose between exploring new places or revisiting beloved spots... decide how much time to spend in each area without rushing while still exploring research places that might interest us and watch videos about Japan book accommodations: yes, it’s possible to do this on the spot, but last year, we realized that last-minute options were pretty expensive, so we’re booking ahead—though we’ll keep a few options open in case better deals pop up later reserve rental cars order yen check the weather regularly and wonder if choosing the *tsuyu* (rainy season) was really a good idea—are we going to be drenched the whole time???

"What hard work," you might say! Going to Japan for a month—what a tough life! Despite this being my 4th trip, the excitement is just as intense as the first time.

The only small downside is that when we booked the flight, there weren’t many seats left, so we’re only sitting together on the international return flight. Plus, on the way there, we have middle seats. Another lingering question: what French-language films will be available? According to the internet, the selection seems limited. Oh well, these are just minor details—it’s already time to fly! PS: I’ll be posting slowly and irregularly... so for those interested, be patient, and maybe set an alert...

Open

Cendryon 2 days ago · Eole34

Kattegat Tour and Norway’s Majestic Fjords – 32 Days (Denmark, Sweden, Norway)

Kattegat isn’t just the name of the village in the TV series *Vikings*—it’s also the stretch of water separating Denmark from Sweden... the sea, basically! And further north, you’ve got Norway and its fjords! Originally, I’d planned to just do a loop around Kattegat, with the *Under* restaurant in Lindesnes as our anniversary treat... but along the way, we thought, why not "push" a little further north, keeping an eye on the budget since we’d chosen to travel by car in June 2025 through Scandinavia.

Why by car when most travelers opt for a camper van, while others prefer the comfort of cruises? Well, because we don’t own a camper van, renting one is pricey, and then you’ve got to add fuel costs (those things guzzle gas!), ferry fees, and other "tolls." All things considered, we went for mostly rentals—especially since there were four of us at the start of the trip. We spent the first week in Denmark with our daughter and son-in-law. Then they flew back to Belgium, and we continued our adventure as a couple. For accommodation, we mainly booked Airbnb apartments, which helped keep costs down and, most importantly, let us prepare our own meals (diet, diet!). In this travel journal, you’ll discover (or rediscover, for those who followed my older ones) our unbridled love for theme parks, museums, unique experiences, and—especially in Denmark—Legos! Unfortunately, we didn’t do any hikes this year because the unpredictable weather had made the trails slippery, and since I’d already taken three tumbles during the trip, I didn’t want to risk another! In the end, we traveled for 32 days, covered 6,200 km, and most importantly, discovered the charming country of Denmark, marveled at Norway’s breathtaking fjords—all without suffering the heatwave that hit France and Belgium that June! If you’ve got any questions, don’t hesitate to ask!

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RichardXI 2 days ago

Page by Page on the Assisi Way – 1,200 km on Foot

Preamble

June 2024. While hiking with my brother on the GR 36 Tour du Morvan, I catch sight now and then of strange rectangular markers fixed to tree trunks. Against a bright orange background, a deep black Greek tau topped with a white dove. My first encounter with the Assisi Way. The Way of St. Francis: a pilgrimage route linking Vézelay in Burgundy to Assisi in Italy, covering nearly 1,800 km. It felt like an obvious next step—I immediately knew I’d take it on, attempt the adventure solo.

In the months that followed, I talked about my project to everyone—family, friends, my partner. An avalanche of comments, more or less the same but varying depending on each person’s character and life experiences. But deep down, it all boiled down to one legitimate question: why?

And the answers? Hesitant, awkward, partial, even confused. I quickly realized they weren’t so easy to find. It was as if my project seemed more like a whim, a kind of intimate caprice, rather than a well-thought-out plan. Of course, I knew the reasons that pushed me to leave—you always have to give some. Loved ones need to understand to feel reassured, and that’s understandable. But I fear that when I list them, they’ll sound like the same old checklist anyone embarking on this kind of journey might give. Of all the reasons I could mention, I’ll highlight just one here: the call of the road, the solo adventure that brings a powerful sense of freedom. A bit like Monsieur Seguin’s goat, who from her comfortable pen gazes longingly at the unconstrained horizon of the mountain. But if I’m being honest, I think I didn’t really know what I was looking for—or, more importantly, what I’d find. Deep down, when I reflect on it, one word keeps coming up that explains nothing and everything at once: desire.

Now well past sixty, I know that when I ask myself who I am or where I’m going, two things bring me fully back to myself: hiking and writing. And my intention was also to anchor this adventure through words, day by day. Writing down my feelings, emotions, discoveries, and reflections each evening. The famous travel journal that grounds the daily experience in reality. When I discovered the app "Polarstep," which was initially just meant to keep my loved ones updated and reassured, inform them of my progress, and maintain a connection, I found an opportunity to do it a little differently than usual. No retrospective notes polished up after returning, but spontaneous writing—recounting everything that crossed my mind during the day and publishing it immediately. A journey lived in real time.

This text is the exact transcription of my daily writings. Rereading them, I didn’t change a thing—just corrected a few mistakes and tweaked some awkward phrasing here and there. Short texts, fitting the format imposed by this kind of app. Writing as if addressing others.

Now, all that was left was to walk. April 18, 2026 – Vézelay.

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Zigomar67 2 days ago · Songsam

Argentine and Chilean Patagonia from El Calafate to Ushuaia

This travel journal summarizes a trip I took in March to Argentine and Chilean Patagonia. It starts in El Calafate and ends in Ushuaia. During my planning, I considered looking into the Australis cruise from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia, as well as the W trek in Torres del Paine National Park. In both cases, I was put off by the prices. Instead of the cruise, I found two interesting wildlife excursions from Punta Arenas: whale watching in the Strait of Magellan and observing king penguins in Tierra del Fuego. The journey to Ushuaia was by bus. For Torres del Paine, things were a bit confusing, so I reached out to two agencies. In the end, I went with a rental car option, overnight stays on-site, and day hikes. I shared my full itinerary with the agency and ended up being taken care of by a local Argentine agency and a Chilean one. So, here we go...

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Jojoone1 4 days ago · Songsam

All Over Thailand

You can post your personal photos in the following thread: https://voyageforum.com/forum/quelque-part-en-thailande-d10655574/

This travel journal is therefore intended solely for my photos, to present a consistent style. All the shots were taken with a simple Samsung Galaxy smartphone and with whatever was at hand.

All stays combined, I’ve spent the equivalent of a year at most in Thailand, and I’m no great expert. However, after many trips, lots of reading on VoyageForum and other sites, and conversations with many locals as well as expats, my view of the country is becoming clearer, though it’s constantly evolving. You never stop discovering and learning.

I guess I wanted to deliver a puzzle, mainly for those who want to get an idea of the country here and for those who feel nostalgic about it. I don’t know if this minimalist sharing will interest anyone, but it’ll do me good to put it together. After so many months without traveling and then these other long months with VF closed, there’s plenty of material available.

There’ll be a mix of places, periods, and subjects, but it might well be intentional.

I suspect many Thais have dogs because they make excellent guardians for the home. Nothing better to deter burglars or to signal the presence of a snake. You’ll often see Thais tapping the top of their dog’s head, but don’t be fooled: it’s a sign of affection from them. Judging by the dogs’ reactions, they’re used to it.

Thailand is one of the countries on the planet where rabies is still present, so keep that in mind. It’s not just bites that can be dangerous, so don’t let just any dog lick you. Especially on a wound, of course. Even though dogs often fear humans—this dangerous and unpredictable predator—we still need to stay cautious. Be careful when walking into alleys because the dog will defend its master’s big yard. Be careful at night, and be careful when they’re in packs. It sometimes crosses our minds that Thailand isn’t all that made for walking around, and dogs are one of the reasons. That said, it’s not uncommon to see them chasing bikes or scooters. Cars, though? Much rarer—they’re too big.

It seems Thais prefer to give their dogs freedom by not locking them behind gates. Though sometimes the gate is closed, the little side door is wide open. Oh, and sometimes there’s no gate in front of the property, or it’s been full of holes for years.

You’ll often see dogs sleeping on the roadside, sometimes right on the road. When you approach, they move aside nonchalantly—or not at all. It’s less funny when they suddenly appear from thick vegetation, reminding visitors not to drive too fast. As a result, you’ll notice that dogs with injuries or missing legs aren’t that rare.

Since they believe in reincarnation and respect for all forms of life, they don’t chase dog packs away too much, and they don’t sterilize them enough. When you see a small pack roaming freely in the countryside, you think twice about running into them at the edge of a field. A darker side of this is that euthanasia isn’t often practiced. Twice, we saw dogs at death’s door in temples, enduring terrible suffering with no one to help. The image (and the smell) of one of them, agonizing and exuding the stench of death, still comes back to me sometimes.

Some of you may have seen the YouTube vlog of a French woman living in Phuket who was given a little pig by her Thai friends. The animal, well-fed, quickly became a happy and enormous beast with its own garden. Yet it didn’t take long for it to fall seriously ill and become incurable. In her video, the French woman described how difficult it was to find a vet willing to perform euthanasia.

You’ll often see bowls by the side of the road. Thais leave food and water there for stray cats and dogs. Overall, they have a big heart for animals.

If you ever pop into a shopping mall, you might see people pushing their small dogs in strollers. It’s not just for fun—these strollers are provided for customers to put their pets in, otherwise you can’t bring them inside. It looks a bit odd when you expect to see a baby.

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Servanel 6 days ago · Vandfaure

Two weeks in Malaysia in September 2017

Hi there,

Here’s our account of our trip to Malaysia from September 11th to 27th. I hope our tips can help others as much as this forum has helped us!

Day 0:

Departure from Nantes with a transfer in Amsterdam via KLM (720 €).

Day 1:

We arrive at KLIA1 in the early afternoon. First challenge: figuring out where to pick up our luggage. Turns out the answer is right under our noses—we need to take the airport’s internal metro! Once we’ve got our bags, we withdraw some cash from a Maybank ATM right there. Next up: SIM card! Just outside the arrivals hall, several kiosks offer them. We go for a Celcom 5 GB card (70 RM). Then it’s taxi time to get to KL, in the Bukit Bintang area—about 85 RM in a slightly old taxi with weak air conditioning. We check into our Airbnb apartment, which is clean, more spacious than a hotel room, and—best of all—has a charming balcony with a gorgeous nighttime view!

We end up hanging out on that balcony, reviewing our plans for the next day. After dark, we take the monorail just a short walk away to enjoy our first evening on a rooftop at the 34th floor: Hélipad (Raja Chulan station—you have to enter the Menara Tower at the base of the station) with a panoramic view of the city and its iconic towers.

Finally, we head to Jalan Alor to grab a bite in this super busy street. Big sleep ahead! 😴

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Muriel18 last week · Puma2A

Two weeks under the Puglia sun

After a pretty disastrous weather-wise trip to Gran Canaria, we’re hoping this time the sun will shine in Puglia. It’s not a sure thing, though—the weather’s been awful all over Europe in early May.

For those who’d like to (re)read the story without the digressions, it’s here.

Saturday, May 16: This time we’re flying out of Charleroi (Brussels South): the ticket prices, flight times, and proximity all worked for us. The airport (Ryanair) was recently renovated... but it’s still not very well organized. There are hardly any seats in the boarding areas, and... the restrooms cost money!!! The flight goes smoothly, though, and we land in Bari a little late.

We quickly pick up our rental car, a very local-looking Pandina (even more so than the Fiat 500 in this region), and hit the Italian roads... and their unique driving quirks (like the fact that the countless road signs along the streets and in towns are purely decorative 😏, and that Italian cars don’t have turn signals 😮... except for rental cars).

About an hour later, we arrive at our first accommodation, right in the middle of the countryside near Monopoli. The owner isn’t there, but they’ve left us a ton of info via messages and even turned on the space heater, which is a nice touch. We explore the property:

And the next morning before breakfast, its immediate surroundings:

Sunday, May 17: After our "seaside" experience in Gran Canaria last weekend (packed with people and locals), we decide to start inland. After a hearty breakfast,

we head toward Alberobello, a super touristy village famous for its trulli—those stone houses with conical roofs. We easily find a free parking spot on a street near the Aia Piccola district, where some trulli are still lived in year-round.

We almost immediately come across the Trullo Sovrano (the only two-story one), which you can visit (but we skip it—it’s opening time, and there’s already a line).

From there, we head down toward the Basilica of Cosma e Damiano... but we don’t go in because there’s a mass.

Now we’re on the main Piazza del Popolo, which connects the two districts of Alberobello: Rione Aia Piccola and Rione Monti, the more touristy one.

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Fabhyène last week · Chrisfenua

3 weeks in Laos, stress-free

Come along, I'm taking you to this country where it's so nice to wander and slow down...

This trip was in 2023, but when I wanted to write my travel journal, VF was still closed to contributions... So, now that I've just finished my Japan travel journal here, I figured it was high time to honor this destination we came back from so enchanted. Disclaimer 1: This is a written travel journal. There’ll be text! Too much, for some! Disclaimer 2: This is an illustrated travel journal. There’ll be photos! Too many, for some!

I have to say, every time I try to discipline myself, to keep it shorter, to include fewer photos... I end up adding more. It feels like my dear Aunt Nicole, who exhausted us with her slide-show evenings in the 70s/80s, decided to take her revenge. The upside for you, readers, is that you can slip away anytime without offending Aunt Nicole. I won’t even notice!

Anyway, since I love maps, here’s one to give you an idea of where I’m taking you. As you can see, we only saw a tiny part of Laos (the areas circled in red); we only had 3 weeks for ourselves (my husband’s newly retired, I still work), and we prefer taking our time over rushing around like crazy.

In broad strokes, it was very classic:

First, we “settled in” at Luang Prabang (8 days), because we wanted and needed to. From there, we took three days to venture a little further north—not far in kilometers, but as we know, distances aren’t just about km! Then we flew south to Paksé, letting ourselves drift down to the 4,000 Islands while stopping by the pre-Angkorian archaeological sites. We wrapped up with the Bolaven Plateau.

A few practical notes: We arrived via Bangkok, then took a Bangkok-Luang Prabang flight, having picked up our luggage in Bangkok to check it in for Luang Prabang. No issues—the Bangkok airport, which many of you know, is very well organized. We got our visas on arrival in Luang Prabang. Quick, but to be fair, we were on a “small” plane, and the big flights had arrived earlier, so we weren’t too crowded in line! At the end of our trip, we didn’t fly out of Paksé but from the nearby airport in Thailand, Ubon Ratchathani (a 2.5-hour drive from Paksé), then Bangkok and Paris. You’ll notice we skipped Vientiane to stay longer in Luang Prabang. That said, there’s now a high-speed train between Vientiane and Luang Prabang—good to know—and soon the (Chinese) train will go all the way to Bangkok and even Kuala Lumpur!

With that intro out of the way, let’s dive into the heart of the matter. To be continued: Slowing down the pace... in Luang Prabang

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Torpan last week · Tulipe57

Japan: First Discovery!

Here’s a little story about my first trip to Japan with my partner. We went for our first visit from October 29 to November 13, 2024.

I had planned this entire trip back in November 2020, but given the health situation at the time, I had to cancel...

Here’s the classic route we took:

We booked everything ourselves and got a regional pass for the area from Kyoto to Hiroshima. The hotels were reserved 3 months in advance on Book... and Agod... (1030 € for 2 people for 13 nights = 80 €/night). For the flight, we chose a Qatar Airways flight with a layover to break up the long journey (950 € per person). We also got a pass on the same site (Japan-Experience) to take the train connecting Narita Airport to Shibuya Station (the N'EX Narita Express). Since the airport is 75 km from central Tokyo, we opted for this mode of transport, even though there are cheaper alternatives. After reading various posts on VoyageForum, I understood how important it was to have a Welcome Suica card to pay for public transport (subway, tram, bus, boat throughout the country), and we were able to buy one at Narita Airport. It turned out to be super useful! After a long but smooth journey, we found ourselves at Narita Airport in the evening. Even though we had a pass for the Narita Express, we had to go to a counter to make a reservation for the train (mandatory). Then, once we arrived at Shibuya Station, we took the subway for 2 stops and finally reached our hotel, exhausted (Hotel Asia Center of Japan – 270 € for 3 nights with breakfast included).

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Fabhyène last week · Tulipe57

Draw Me Your Japan...

Hi there!

I’m inviting you on a stroll through my drawings—a completely subjective, far from exhaustive, and totally personal take, since it’s based on my own sketches. I put this travel journal together after returning in late 2024, mostly using felt-tip pens and pencils, with a few collages thrown in. I worked from our personal photos.

Let’s start with the shotengai...

Our first "wow" moment came as we stepped out of the subway in Asakusa, the Tokyo neighborhood where we’d booked our hotel for our first five nights. Exhausted after our long flight, we finally arrived and took an exit that led straight into a shotengai—one of those covered shopping streets that pop up in city centers and flourished between the 1950s and 1980s.

It was an instant aesthetic shock, like a close encounter of the third kind between the modern city, a typical Asian market with its street stalls, the vintage vibe of the arcade, the sheer abundance of goods, and the bustling crowd—a mix of tourists, pilgrims (thanks to nearby Senso-ji Temple), and locals (it’s a very working-class area). In the end, it set the tone for a feeling we’d experience throughout the trip. Wherever we went, shotengai turned out to be fantastic spots for finding little restaurants, shops, or even fresh produce. Some are like real mazes, like in Kyoto, where we spent ages trying to relocate a restaurant we’d loved ;-)

In Kanazawa, the Omicho Market:

And in Kyoto, Nishiki Market:

To be continued...

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Holigirl 2 weeks ago · Solene40

South Africa in safari mode: February/March 2026

Hi everyone,

With my girlfriend Christelle, we’ve chosen South Africa for our first trip to Southern Africa, focusing on safaris—after a long debate with a Cape Town/Kruger combo. But that would’ve meant cutting out St Lucia, which would’ve been harder to fit into another trip. And St Lucia—thanks to Michel and all those travel journals—we really wanted to go there.

So our 11-night itinerary ended up like this, mostly shaped by school holidays: - 3 nights in St Lucia - 1 night in Hluhluwe - 1 night at Mkhaya Game Reserve (Eswatini) - 1 night at Hlane Royal National Park (Eswatini) - 3 nights in Kruger (Berg en Dal / Satara / Tamboti) - 1 night at Shindzela Tented Camp in the Timbavati private reserve - 1 final night in Kruger at Lower Sabie

All of this in the off-season and rainy season, just a month after catastrophic floods that killed over 150 people and seriously damaged Kruger’s infrastructure.

I’ll jump straight to St Lucia and skip the loooong journey to get there (with a layover in Frankfurt, landing in Johannesburg, a domestic flight to Durban, and the rest by rental SUV—First Car Rental, perfect, no complaints).

To motivate readers—especially some familiar faces here—I’ll drop in a first photo.

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Caroki 2 weeks ago

Three weeks in Albania with two older teens

We went to Albania in August 2025. Our itinerary included adventure (sporty activities, site visits), naps on the beach interspersed with swims, incredible natural sites, and a bit of culture.

I booked all our accommodations on Booking.com. Note: almost all places ask to be paid in cash!! You can obviously withdraw from banks, but the fees are pretty high. Luckily, we had plenty of cash, and the country is very safe. You can pay in euros most of the time, which avoids exchange fees. We started in Tirana. I’d read a really interesting post about Albania’s bunkers (link in my profile). We chose to visit Bunk’Art with a guide from the agency that wrote the post. It was fascinating—not only to better understand the country’s history but also because her grandfather was repressed by the regime, and she shared her family’s experience with us.

Bunkers are everywhere! In Tirana, Bunk’Art is the most interesting and largest. You’ll see the dictator Enver Hoxha’s office, where he would’ve taken refuge in case of an attack on the country. Bring a sweater—it’s really cold in the underground tunnels and their huge corridors. You can visit other bunkers around the country, in Tirana and elsewhere. Almost all are just abandoned. The cable car up Mount Dajti is right next to Bunk’Art. The view is stunning—you realize Tirana is so close to the mountains and the sea... But otherwise, it’s not that exciting for older teens (17 and 19) and their parents. We picked up a rental car in Tirana—it’d be ours for the next three weeks. We used Goalbania’s agency to avoid any hassles. First, there aren’t many cars available in Albania in summer. Second, French credit cards can be a nightmare abroad. So we preferred to sort that out in advance. After Tirana, we headed to Permet. Just a heads-up: the roads are in great condition except in the mountains. And Albanian drivers aren’t stressful to deal with. Though you might suddenly encounter a herd of goats crossing the road—haha—but if you’re not going too fast, it’s fine. In Permet, I’d been dreaming of rafting on the Vjosa, one of Europe’s last wild rivers. And we did it with a local agency! It’s beautiful, accessible to everyone, not too physical but still a bit lively—just how we like it. You can even jump into the river in some spots. In Permet, we also hiked through a canyon and visited a lovely little church.

And we took a workshop to make their local culinary pride: gliko. It’s a jam with whole fruits inside. We’d seen it on Goalbania’s site, and it was really fun. We were with a family where the secret to making gliko has been passed down for generations... Next, we headed to Gjirokastër. A city we loved: its old traditional houses (Skendulli and Zekate), its grand castle, the Ali Pasha Bridge. Along the way, we stopped for artisanal ice cream at a little shop run by a grandmother who’s been making it herself for ages.

One afternoon, my husband *had* to go to the coast in the south, to Ksamil (he’d read it was better than Sarandë). Verdict: we didn’t like it. Parking is a nightmare, the beaches are super noisy and crowded. The sea is packed with jet skis, boats, pedalos, and ropes. Avoid it.

On the other hand, we really liked Himarë, where we went next. We stayed at a campsite where we rented tents with mattresses and sheets inside. Right by the sea, on a low cliff (about 2 meters high). You can hear the waves at night... Magical!! To swim, you either jump straight into the sea (almost from the tent) or climb down a ladder, which you’ll need to climb back up to get out.

I was a little worried the campsite wouldn’t be very comfortable, so afterward, I’d booked a small place in Gjilek. Turns out, the place was really tiny (one room for four, no kitchen) and pretty expensive (over 100 € a night). We’d drive to the beach or restaurants—it’s on a steep slope, so not very accessible. Parking near the sea is tricky. But the (private) beaches were nice—we’d rent an umbrella not too close to the music and spend the day there. We also went to a wilder beach, harder to reach, via a long path. Behind the beach, there’s an amazing canyon where we’d sometimes climb using ropes (already in place, no need to bring your own) over big boulders rolled around by the stream, which must swell a lot in spring. So, the sea in Albania: it’s nice if you like swimming and relaxing, but it’s not the most interesting part of the country. There are so many other amazing things to see and discover—so many stunning sites! Maybe an agency could’ve helped us find more practical accommodations and avoid Ksamil and its surroundings. We left the coast to head to the beautiful city of Berat and its "thousand windows." We explored the city, its fortress, and its icon museum.

Then we discovered the Osum Canyon—it’s incredible. The view from the top is breathtaking. And at the bottom, it’s magical. There’s little water in summer, so rafting isn’t an option. We weren’t tempted by the big-tube descent offered by an agency—it looked fun, but the group had 40 people. We preferred hiking on our own as a family of four. We scouted the area on Google Maps... and found where to descend. We walked in the water, then it rose to our waists, then our shoulders... We weren’t moving fast. And how to get back up?? Eventually, we followed a group with a guide—the path was hard to find.

After that unforgettable hike, we visited the Bogovë Waterfalls. It’s pretty, and we swam, but the water was *really* cold. We passed through Tirana again and then headed to Shkodër. We explored a bit—its charming little streets, the Rozafa Fortress. There’s a tiny museum where you can see *huge* Ottoman stone cannonballs. And they tell you the (charming) story of the young woman who was walled alive in the castle’s foundations to ensure its strength... Shkodër is mostly a stopover to head into the mountains and discover Theth. Our goal: hiking in the Valbona Valley, from Valbona to Theth. We organized the trip ourselves, without an agency, but it took some time to figure everything out. So I’ll save you the trouble—haha. Book your tickets on the Komanilakeferry website. The ticket includes: 🙂 minibus transfer from downtown Shkodër to Koman 🙂 ferry ticket from Koman to Fierze. This ferry ride is *gorgeous*—between mountain slopes covered in pine trees, and sometimes a little house with a few fields...

🙂 minibus ticket from Fierze to Valbona. Now you’re in the mountains! The minibus drops you off near your accommodation—pick one as close as possible to the start of the hike (if that’s your goal!). The ones at the far end of the village add up to 1.5 hours of walking. Our choice: Guesthouse Dioni. The host is really lovely, it’s in the woods, and it’s basic but great. After a day of hiking, we arrived in Theth. What beautiful mountains! Then we explored Theth and the surrounding area. It’s pretty busy, but you can still enjoy the Blue Eye of Theth and its swim. It’s *so* cold! But so beautiful!

🙂 minibus ticket from Theth back to Shkodër. After a night in Shkodër, we drove to Kepi i Rodonit. A guidebook (I forget which one) raved about its beauty. And it *is* beautiful!

But the view is ruined by plastic bottles and other trash in the bushes, along the paths, and of course on the beaches. The only peaceful spot: the private beach at Kepi i Rodonit, which is cleaned. You can rent an umbrella and have lunch there. That’s where we spent our last few days—very relaxing. In short... Albania turned out to be perfect for us and our teens!

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Attila 2 weeks ago · ReneVoyageur

Albania in Autumn Colors

A new work assignment means our vacation dates can't stay the same.

We had planned to go to the Canary Islands, but flight prices are skyrocketing with this new holiday schedule.

So, I’m looking for an alternative to Gran Canaria and El Hierro and found two round-trip flights with Wizz Air to Tirana.

398 €, including baggage and seats—perfect!

Plus, the departure and return times are great, which is pretty rare for a low-cost flight!

All that’s left is to rent a car, plan the route, and book accommodations.

With two weeks, we’ll have to make some choices!

Here’s the final itinerary: Shkodra (2 nights), Valbonë (3 nights), Tirana (1 night), Lake Ohrid (1 night), Korçë (1 night), Përmet (1 night), Gjirokastër (1 night), Himarë (2 nights), Berat (2 nights), and Krujë (1 night).

A mix of countryside and small towns, a bit of the Mediterranean, and some mountains!

Late October isn’t the best season, so let’s keep our fingers crossed for the rest...

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6cha38 2 weeks ago

Our family trip from Denver to Yellowstone – a recap

Hi there,

I’m diving into a recap of our loop—pretty classic, really—Denver-Yellowstone-Denver this past summer, from July 24 to August 17. Given the sheer number of trip reports already out there (or in the works), and since I don’t have the writing chops or the photography skills of many of you, I’ll keep it practical—well, I’ll try, at least—to share our take on some of the less-visited parks and spots.

First off, a huge thank you to everyone whose trip reports, blogs, websites, comments, and more helped us put together this itinerary. Looking back, it could’ve been even better optimized: a few disappointments when we missed out on some great discoveries, often because we were short on time. Plenty of reasons to come back to the area!

We’re traveling with our four (almost) teens—18, 16, 14, and nearly 12 years old. To keep the trip enjoyable for everyone, we had to make compromises on both sides: cutting a visit short to spend more time swimming, waking up at dawn, and so on. But logistics also played a big role—things like laundry, grocery shopping, and keeping luggage organized could’ve quickly become time-consuming without a little planning. And honestly, I think we visited every Walmart along the way! Blame it on the lack of fridges in some accommodations and, more importantly, the *very* limited space in the car, which made it impossible to bring a proper cooler. I’ll come back to the car saga later.

For accommodations, this year we alternated between basic cabins in KOA campgrounds and Yellowstone (when staying more than one night in the same place) and hotels. Always with a pool (except in Yellowstone, of course), which let the kids burn off energy—because they always have reserves, even after packed days!—and, let’s be honest, gave us a chance to relax. No Wi-Fi issues either; we all had plans with 25 GB of data (a big thanks to Gilles for the amazing deal at 0.99 €). It worked perfectly, even for texts and calls between phones—no extra charges.

Now, onto our route: as I mentioned, a classic Denver-Yellowstone-Denver loop. To avoid rushing through the parks or spending all our time on the road, we prioritized staying as close to them as possible, with at least two nights in each place. And I’ve got to say, it’s really nice to settle in, even if it’s just for two nights. It also helped us deal with the weather, which wasn’t always great during this trip. The trade-off? With vacation time being limited, some driving days ended up being long. We knew that going in, but since we kept a relaxed pace with no time constraints (don’t ask me for timings—I don’t keep track of the clock on vacation, except in the morning to get everyone up before noon!), we sometimes ended up with marathon days.

With that said, I’ll dive into the trip itself in the next post.

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Attila 2 weeks ago

Storm in the Canary Islands

15 days across Gran Canaria, El Hierro, and a dash of Tenerife under the storm Thérèse!

The planned itinerary will be slightly disrupted...

(The version without discussions is here)

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Bibouns51 3 weeks ago

Off on a winter adventure in the American West!

Day 1 – February 14

We all have two lives. And the second one kicks off the day you realize you only have one, with the determination to spend the time you have left on what truly adds sparkle to your life, Kevin! I like to elegantly introduce a trip with a philosophical quote. First, it gives you the illusion that I’m some kind of deep thinker, and second, it lets me fill up the first few lines of my blank page when I don’t know how to tell you I’m diving back into what really lights up my life: another adventure beyond the horizon! And nearly every other year, like a toxic relationship, my horizon tends to take shape in Uncle Sam’s backyard. And this, despite his cousin Donald calling the shots. Speaking of which, it was partly that impulsive guy who pushed us to be just as impulsive and snag our four flight tickets at a ridiculously low price—a direct result of foreign tourism taking a hit from BetaMax’s repeated antics... Four tickets? Who are the other lucky ones? In this case, our lucky ones are actually lucky ladies: My Flo, always up for exploring the world with me on foot, camelback, or scooter, is obviously in on the fun. The other two seats went to our daughters, Sasha and Luna, both thrilled to be part of this new American adventure...

But what’s the American West like in February?... A gamble. Let’s call it Russian roulette since we’re not landing during peak weather season. That’s why we encouraged our transportation and accommodation to get cozy and produce a little camper van, so we can stay ultra-flexible in the face of any weather tantrums. We’ll be roaming in Kara the van with the motto "Follow the sun!" Bad weather? We bolt. Snow? We speed up. Sunny? We act like it was the plan all along and soak it up.

"Okay, but why keep coming back to the same corner of the globe? After ten American adventures, you must be tired of seeing the same things, right?" But I’m not crazy, you know!... The American West is like making love to your gorgeous wife over and over, always enjoying it just as much. And contrary to what you might think, the American West isn’t just the Grand Canyon, Monument Valley, Las Vegas, and Bryce Canyon. Proof is, after ten trips to the U.S., my retinas are still untouched by three-quarters of the places I scribbled on a napkin for this adventure... Oh, and add to that my wife, who I’ve easily converted to my religion, and boom... relapse is even easier! Because yes, we’ve landed in Los Angeles after a sunny flight over Greenland, still under Danish flag for now. And we’re already heading east through the XXL traffic of L.A.’s eight-lane highways, eager to dive into our first discoveries. But first, night is taking over the sky, and second, we’ve been officially awake for 24 hours, so I suggest wrapping up this intro. I’ll tell you more tomorrow morning. Sound good?

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Montagnard74 3 weeks ago

CAPE VERDE 2025: 3 weeks, 4 islands.

And we still haven’t seen everything! Before setting off for new horizons at the end of this year, it’s time for me to share my trip to Cape Verde this summer 2025.

I particularly love these spontaneous trips, and our stay in Cape Verde is one of those because it was only at the beginning of April that we decided on this getaway, which had been catching our eye for a while, given our love for the mountains.

As always—well, when it’s open—I turned to VF, and I want to immediately thank Marie, aka ptitortue, who helped me a lot in planning this trip through her travel journals and our exchanges!

Because Cape Verde is both small and vast! We decided not to rush from one airport to another, to enjoy the places and the people, but also to relax, since the work backlog from being stuck in May (see my previous travel journal 😅) had to be caught up on in June.

So, 4 islands will be our winners from 06/28 to 07/19:

Santiago first for logistical reasons, as round-trip flights from the capital Praia were the cheapest (650 €/person from Lyon via Lisbon with TAP, still!)

São Vicente, because it’s the gateway to the next one but ultimately more than that...

Santo Antão, pretty much the main goal of the trip since Marie (and the photos) had really sold it to me.

And finally, Sal Island, for some rest—a non-negotiable condition for my other half—and we’ll see that I should’ve listened to Marie...

That said, what a chatterbox I am—buckle up, flight attendants at the doors, off we go on new beautiful escapes! (Thanks to Sophie for the easy loan)

Last note for my eager fan club 😏: yes, there will be alcohol—how could there not be in the land of grogue!

It starts here:

https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10790234;a=10790234

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Songsam 3 weeks ago

Far from the daily grind*

Hello, Since I enjoy not only the countryside but also everything related to rail travel, I’m starting this photo thread dedicated to trains in Thailand (I’d guess most of us have taken one at some point...). Feel free to post your pictures here as long as they fit the theme: rolling stock**, stations**, platforms, tracks (even without a train on them), technical equipment, engineering structures (bridges, viaducts), etc.—all in Thailand. For each photo, I’ll (or you can) note the station or line where it was taken. Comments and questions are welcome.

* train ** interiors or exteriors

All aboard!

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Jojoone1 3 weeks ago

From the Awakening to Travel to Morocco in the 90s

As I’ve mentioned elsewhere, I inherited my love of travel from my parents and some of my grandparents. A strong passion, but one that was unfortunately limited by our family’s modest resources. Back then, living in northern Alsace, a simple trip to the southern part of the region—with the Wine Route as our destination—felt like an extraordinary journey to a land of plenty for the little boy I was in the late 60s and early 70s. Everything seemed so huge when you were still just a kid. Back then, I was overwhelmed by countless sensations—I was already highly sensitive, with a keen mind and a nose and taste buds that were developing like a pro’s. Which, as I’d later realize, wasn’t always an advantage.

Those magical days always began with a gentle late-spring or midsummer morning. The interior of the white Peugeot 404, license plate 210 LZ 67, had already soaked up the sun before the engine purred to life, and the cabin gave off a scent I could still recognize today—a fragrance I found so pleasant. Back then, I had no idea it was just the smell of warm plastic from the car’s interior. Yes, the scents of the 404 on sunny days became my madeleine de Proust... What’s more, the whole family was unusually cheerful because those moments of relaxation and leisure were rare. Everyone worked, and no one had an easy job or was well paid. Without the *Trente Glorieuses*, these experiences might never have happened.

Once we crossed the canton’s borders, I felt like I was light-years away from my everyday surroundings, and every kilometer plunged me deeper into *terra incognita*. It was thrilling. Far from my so-called "medium-sized" town, wheat fields, cornfields, and cabbage patches stretched out, punctuated by tall poles connected by long wires and topped with vegetation—like giant clotheslines without laundry, where magical beanstalks might grow to touch the sky. Back then, I was still far from tasting their product, which was simply beer. At the time, there was still a significant local hop production. Fun fact: it wasn’t until 2002 that Anglo-Saxon scientists proved hops and cannabis belong to the same biological family.

After the fields, the landscape took another step up as it rolled past the little boy’s eyes, often glued to the windows. First came modest hills, then a succession of rolling slopes that soon formed an unbroken chain. Their 700 meters in altitude felt like Himalayan peaks to me—impressive, inert giants, a whole new world. Gazing at them, an intense emotion welled up somewhere between my stomach and lungs, nearly taking my breath away. What mysteries, what treasures did these heights hold? And then there were the cherries on top—the crowning touch that made the scene even more magical: proud, majestic castles perched on the summits like impassive sentinels. Monuments from the past, yet firmly rooted in the present on their rocky spurs. The little boy’s eyes sparkled—he’d been given a castle for Christmas, complete with battlements, towers, a drawbridge, and fully armed knights. He’d watched and lived *Ivanhoe* on the only French TV channel that existed back then.

Only once did my paternal grandfather join us on one of these trips. A tall, intelligent man with a face that could shift from stern to mischievous, clearly full of humor and charisma. Sadly, his relationship with alcohol had taken a toll on his life and, by extension, those of his loved ones. He had a strong personality—if his boss crossed the line, he wouldn’t hesitate to punch him, which meant he went through a lot of different jobs. Back then, you could quit one job and easily find another. It was quite something to see him in his final stages, hallucinating pink elephants and even drinking perfume when he had nothing else left. The last time I saw him, he’d slipped away from the doctors and nurses while hospitalized in pretty bad shape—at least, I assume his liver was the issue. We were sitting down for a family lunch when the door burst open, and there he stood in his pajamas, eyes twinkling with mischief, clearly pleased with the dramatic entrance. That theatrical moment didn’t spare us from burying him a few months later at the age of 71. One day, my mother told me the family doctor had quietly remarked that it was a shame—with his robust constitution, he could’ve lived to be a hundred. Yes, the family doctor—this was the man who’d come treat you any day, at almost any hour, just for a phone call. It really existed, it’s not a myth!

That day, his wife—my paternal grandmother—was also along for the ride. Everyone agreed that Jeannette was a good woman. She worked as a waitress at *Le Tigre*, the biggest brasserie in town, right in the center. Most customers preferred to be served by her, including local dignitaries and even the mayor. As a kid, I didn’t find her very fun, open, or warm—she seemed a bit stern. Back then, women in their fifties already had the face and build of grandmothers. Same went for men, don’t get me wrong. I had no idea about the struggles she faced because of her husband. I didn’t know that 30 years earlier, she’d had to flee Alsace while pregnant, under threat from Nazi fighter-bombers. I didn’t know she’d had several miscarriages, and that my father—her only surviving child, born prematurely in March 1940 at the other end of France—weighed less than a kilo at birth and was so tiny he could fit in a shoebox. Hard to imagine he’d grow into a strapping man nearly 1.80 meters tall, tipping the scales at 100 kilos. When you come back from summer camp in early August and ask why she didn’t pick you up with your parents, and they gently tell you she’s "in heaven," you don’t realize she passed away at 54 after suffering greatly from stomach cancer that had spread.

Back to that family outing, that enchanted parenthesis. I even remembered where we’d had lunch when I passed through Dambach-la-Ville decades later. One of those charming, flower-filled towns Alsace produces in abundance—and preserves so well. This one sits high on a hill, and I was a bit stunned on the parking lot because the view stretched far, revealing the Alsace plain below—its fields, villages, hills, and forests. The world seemed so vast and enticing that day, even though I was only glimpsing a tiny fraction of it.

The region was already very touristy, but I wouldn’t notice the downsides until much later. That Sunday noon, I discovered a large restaurant filled with diners. I can still see the enormous piece of meat they served me, decorated with a little wooden skewer topped with a flag. I kept that one for a long time. Those were the golden days of rich, flowing, thick sauces—so flavorful—and the era of the world’s best fries, made on the spot with the best potatoes. To top it off, I was *exceptionally* allowed a small bottle of apple juice, Orangina, or—even better if possible—Sinalco. Yes, Sinalco—like Orangina, but better. A brand that must’ve disappeared in the 70s, but why, and what a shame! Since then, Orangina’s little bubbles have taken the brand to the other side of the planet—it’s now Japanese.

Year after year, I’d eagerly await that ecstatic moment when the most beautiful castle in Alsace, the Haut-Koenigsbourg, appeared in my field of vision. The perfect model, the archetype that blended into the landscape at the height of a child’s dreams. The trip home always felt like a reality check—less jarring than an alarm clock, but more diffuse and melancholic. From then on, there was only one wish: *When do we leave again?*

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Elis 3 weeks ago · Djalma

9-Day Trek in the Balkans

Hi there, Here’s a recap of a trek through the Balkans covering three countries: Albania, Montenegro, and Kosovo. I was with a friend, and we didn’t do the full route (only one day in Kosovo). It was a wonderful trek through snow-capped mountains and vast flower-filled meadows, meeting incredibly welcoming people. At the end of the travel journal, I’ll share what I loved and what I liked less.

Day 1: Flight from Paris-Beauvais to Tirana with Wizz Air.

Since Albania isn’t part of Europe when it comes to phone service (at least not yet! :-)), we had to buy a physical SIM card—otherwise, the bill would’ve been sky-high if we’d used our French plan! We got one from Vodafone AL at the airport. You can buy online before leaving with a virtual SIM (e-SIM) for compatible phones, so you don’t have to swap cards. But given the uncertainty about choosing a plan online, we preferred buying one directly at Tirana Airport. Cost: 31 € for 100 GB. That’s way too much—100 GB is overkill. For 40 GB, it’s 27 €, and the plan lasts 21 days. The price difference isn’t huge, and it was cheaper than online. This plan covers all the countries along the Balkan range. Money tip: All guesthouses and accommodations accept euros. The local currency in Albania is the LEK. In Montenegro, it’s the euro. Bank fees for withdrawing money from an ATM in Albania are pretty steep: 8 € for a withdrawal of 600–700 LEK (about 200 €)! So it’s better to withdraw cash (euros) in France. Oh, and we booked all our accommodations before leaving, but payment is always in cash. Budget around 400–500 € for 9 days of trekking.

Then, a transfer the same day to Shköder, about a 2-hour bus ride. Cost: 10 € per person. Tickets bought directly on the bus. We spent the night in Shköder at a very clean guesthouse, Open Doors B&B. It had a small balcony overlooking the city.

I really liked Shköder, especially its pedestrian street lined with restaurants and lit up at night. It’s a great place to stroll and eat. The food isn’t expensive—two big salads and two beers: 14 € :-) . Fruit prices are also very reasonable: 3 € for a kilo of cherries, compared to 9–10 € in France. Religions coexist peacefully in these countries—Catholics and Muslims. From our balcony, my friend heard the call to prayer for the first time, coming from one of the city’s mosques.

Day 2: Bus ride to Theth, about 1,100 meters in elevation gain, the starting point for our hike the next day.

The trip took 2 hours and 40 minutes with a break in the middle. The bus was affordable, but taxis also make the trip—though they’re very expensive.

We slept in the heights of Theth at a new guesthouse, "Mountain Vista Shkafi," with an amazing view.

The family was adorable. The husband is a handyman and built almost everything himself. Their baby is named "Sky"—such a cute name, right? :-) Throughout the trek, I found the guesthouses very clean, and the hosts think of everything—no need to bring soap or shampoo; they provide it. Lunch in Theth at a traditional restaurant on the main road. We tried "Tave Dheu," an Albanian dish with beef, cabbage (very common), and cottage cheese. Delicious but not quite filling enough. For dessert, a honey cake that was perfectly moist—such a treat! Desserts like this are rare; sometimes they serve watermelon instead. We took a small private bus for 5 € to the "Blue Eye" parking lot, then walked for about 45 minutes to reach a stunning natural site—a kind of lagoon with incredibly blue water. The bravest can swim, but the water’s freezing!

That evening, we dined at "La Montagne Blanche"—excellent! A delightful mix of grilled meats with potatoes and grilled peppers. Some watermelon slices (which I’m not a fan of) and the famous Raki, a brandy served in Turkey and the Balkans! It was my first time drinking brandy "bottoms up." 😉

To be continued... 😉

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DrCarter 3 weeks ago · Djackx67

Two-week family trip to Colombia in August with 8-year-olds

Hi everyone,

I’d like to share my family trip to Colombia with kids aged 8. After spending hours browsing the forum and only having two weeks there, we decided to focus on two regions: the Coffee Zone for one week and the Caribbean coast for another. We traveled from August 8 to 23.

Day 1 – First stop: Bogotá

We arrived in Bogotá in the evening on an Air France flight—nothing to complain about, decent service, comfortable, and on time. However, the first night was a miss. We’d booked a hotel near the airport (Abitel Prime) for convenience, but the soundproofing was almost nonexistent; we heard planes as if we were on the runway. Luckily, exhaustion helped us sleep well anyway.

Day 2 – Off to the Coffee Zone and Salento

The next morning, we headed to the airport for a domestic flight to Pereira with LATAM. No issues: punctual and efficient, and in 30 minutes, we landed in Pereira. The landing already set a different mood: lush valleys, endless plantations, and humid air. We picked up our rental car from Localiza. Unfortunately, the experience wasn’t smooth—the paperwork took forever, and the wait tested our patience. Finally free, we hit the road to Salento, one of Quindío’s gems. We arrived in the late afternoon and discovered a colorful village bustling with artisan shops and cafés. Our first stroll helped us soak in the atmosphere before dinner at Bambú restaurant—a great surprise with careful cooking and local flavors. We spent the night at Casa Serafín, a charming little hotel, nicely decorated and well-located… but unfortunately very noisy.

Day 3 – The magic of Cocora Valley

This was one of the trip’s highlights. We set off early for Cocora Valley, famous for its giant wax palms, Colombia’s emblem. We chose the 12 km loop recommended by the *Routard*. The landscapes were spectacular: towering palms, rivers, suspension bridges. It felt like walking through a postcard. The weather was perfect. That evening, we dined at Barnabé restaurant—pleasant setting, decent food, but the bill was a bit steep for what it was. Back to Casa Serafín.

Day 4 – Coffee and panoramic views

The plan was a visit to Finca El Ocaso. For 1.5 hours, we followed a passionate guide who explained the entire coffee process, from harvest to cup. Very educational, accessible for both kids and adults, all in a stunning setting. The tour was in English for us, and we translated for our kids, who aren’t bilingual yet. In the afternoon, we climbed to Salento’s viewpoint. The valley view was superb. That evening, we ate at Veggie Garden, a simple and pleasant spot that was a nice change from the heavier meals of previous days.

Day 5 – Horseback ride to Santa Rita Waterfall

We booked a horseback ride with Cocora Magic. It was a real success: calm horses, a beautiful trail, mountain and meadow landscapes, and finally the refreshing and wild Santa Rita Waterfall. Without a doubt, one of the best moments of our time in the region. We even got a bonus ride up a 300-meter hill. We then headed to Filandia, less known than Salento but just as charming. We spent the late afternoon enjoying the pool at MuchoSur Filandia. The hotel is beautiful, in an idyllic setting. However, we also had soundproofing issues and could hear our neighbors.

Day 6 – Rainy detour through Filandia and Manizales

Rain caught up with us in the early morning: torrents of water made it impossible to go out. We stayed at the hotel, reading quietly. By noon, the rain let up: a quick walk in Filandia, a quick lunch, then off to Manizales. We chose to stay at El Otoño hot springs. Great choice: as soon as we arrived, we plunged into the hot pools, perfect after hours on the road.

Day 7 – Hiking and hot springs

In the morning, we hiked the Camino de Super Coco (found somewhat randomly on Google). A pleasant trail with mountain views and a peaceful atmosphere. The afternoon was spent in the hotel’s thermal pools, with a short marked hike down to the river. Dinner on-site at the hot springs’ restaurant. A simple but very relaxing day.

Day 8 – Rain, jacuzzi, and games

We continued to Finca Los Alpes. The rain greeted us again, but this time it turned into an asset: nothing like a steaming jacuzzi with a view of the misty mountains. The kids enjoyed the facilities too: mini-golf, ping-pong, billiards. Dinner and night at the hotel, cozy vibes.

Day 9 – Off to the Caribbean coast

Back to the airport to return the car (still a bit long). Flight to Cartagena with Avianca: punctual and comfortable. Upon arrival, we picked up another car and headed straight to the Hyatt Regency, a modern hotel with a pool. That evening, we dined at the hotel—practical after a travel day.

Day 10 – Colonial Cartagena

We set off to explore Cartagena’s old town. It was enchanting: colorful facades, flowered balconies, colonial charm—just magical. However, the heat was stifling and very humid. Afternoon relaxation by the pool. Dinner at Gestlani, a good restaurant in town.

Day 11 – Road to Barú

A hearty breakfast, then one last swim in the pool before heading to Barú. We checked into Las Islas Hotel. The setting was enchanting: wooden cabins nestled in the vegetation, a private beach, turquoise sea, impeccable service. Dinner at the hotel’s restaurant.

Day 12 – Beach and relaxation

A full beach day in Barú. Warm water, white sand, coconut trees, peace and quiet. A real postcard scene with iguanas and birds.

Day 13 – On to Santa Marta

Another morning at the beach before hitting the road to Santa Marta. The drive was a bit long (6 hours), especially with traffic jams in Barranquilla. It was the longest car ride of the trip. We spent the night at Villa María Tayrona, a beautiful place near the park.

Day 14 – Tayrona Park

We left early for Tayrona Park. We entered through **El Zaino**, parked the car, and set off on a hike to La Piscina (about 2 hours). We stopped along the way at Playa Arenilla, a stunning little beach, to rest. Lunch on-site, a swim, then back by 4 PM. The hike was a bit tiring, but the nature was spectacular: dense jungle, the sound of waves, and even a monkey encounter along the way. Evening and dinner at the hotel.

Day 15 – Last swim and return flight to Bogotá

Our last morning was split between the pool and the beach (the hotel has direct access via a 7-minute trail through vegetation and flowers)—hard to leave this paradise. We drove to Santa Marta’s airport to return the car, then flew back to Bogotá. We spent the night at Casa Dann Carlton, a comfortable hotel. We simply ordered room service, arriving too late to go out.

Day 16 – Bogotá and the end of the trip

Our last day in Colombia. After a good breakfast, we explored La Candelaria. Its cobbled streets and colorful houses were worth the visit. We visited the Botero Museum (free) and the Gold Museum, both fascinating. Back to the airport for our 11:55 PM Air France flight.

That’s a wrap on a varied trip—lush mountains, colorful villages, dream beaches, and tropical jungle. The pace was pretty relaxed, well-suited for our kids. They absolutely loved the trip to Colombia. Driving in Colombia was very easy, and we didn’t regret renting a car at all—it gave us more freedom to get around.

If I were to do it again, here’s what I’d change: - I’d spend less time in the Coffee Zone to stay a bit longer on the Caribbean coast, which was more relaxing for the kids. Or I’d head to Medellín, but I didn’t think the city was very kid-friendly. - Bogotá is a city that deserves a day’s visit, but it’s not a must-see. Maybe I’d have taken the KLM flight from Cartagena to Amsterdam instead.

If you have any questions, don’t hesitate!

Antoine

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Gaura 3 weeks ago · Fabhyène

Visiting Bologna in Photos

Since I didn’t have time to write a proper travel journal, I thought I’d share a few photos of Bologna—a really lovely city I discovered in 2017 while stopping on my way to Tuscany. Around Piazza Maggiore, which was packed with a stage and chairs for a show, stands the Basilica of San Petronio, massive and Gothic in style, with an unfinished façade (a common sight in Italy).

Another building near the square:

But Bologna’s real charm lies in its porticoes, which were added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2021: 62 km of arcades running along buildings, letting you walk sheltered from the sun or rain. Back in 1288, the city required houses to include private arcades for public use. In the city center, you can stroll under 32 km of porticoes in all sorts of styles—some plain, some ornate—with a strong presence of red tones.

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Muriel18 3 weeks ago

Gran Canaria... a trip that wasn't exactly thrilling

Okay, it wasn’t a total disaster either. Actually, I hesitated before starting this travel journal: is it even worth writing about a holiday that won’t leave an unforgettable memory? In the end, I went for it (there aren’t many recent travel journals about this destination). So, read on... or don’t .

Every time we’ve been to the Canary Islands, it’s been by default (basically: where can we go in winter or early spring when we only have a week—so not too far, not too much jet lag, but with decent weather?).

This time, we had two weeks, but the winter plan kept changing: first Thailand (dropped for personal reasons), then Martinique (dropped because of work leave dates that weren’t up to me), and finally, the Canary Islands.

We’ve already been to Tenerife (which we really liked) and Lanzarote (which we liked a little less). This year, two options: Gran Canaria or one of the smaller islands west of Tenerife (La Palma, or even La Gomera or El Hierro). We chose Gran Canaria... not sure it was the right call! Whose fault is it? Storm Thérèse’s! Yes, Storm Thérèse followed us on arrival, and its effects lasted quite a while. We had to adapt, cancel visits, change activities...

But even without Thérèse...

Saturday 21/03 Departure from Orly at 6:10 AM with Transavia. The plane took off on time and landed a little early, tossed around by strong winds before touching down. It had just rained, but it was (almost) no longer raining.

We quickly picked up our luggage and then the car at the Cicar counter. We got a Seat Arona instead of the Corsa we’d booked. Well, while the driving position didn’t feel great at first (I got used to it), the engine’s smoothness and power were much appreciated on the island’s winding and sometimes steep roads.

It was only 10 AM, and we couldn’t theoretically check into our accommodation until 3 PM (the owner promised to message me if it was ready earlier). So, we headed to the (big) *Jardín Botánico Viera y Clavijo*, where we planned to spend a few hours. We found a huge parking lot... empty. The passenger in the car in front of us (yes, we weren’t the only ones at the closed gate—there was a car in front and one behind) went to ask for info: it was closed due to the storm 😕. So, we calmly headed toward Puerto de las Nieves, on the northwest coast of the island.

The plan: go to a restaurant, visit the village, and do some shopping while waiting for early afternoon. As soon as we got out of the car, it started raining... we took shelter under the awning of a shop, waiting for it to pass. But the rain turned into a downpour, and within minutes, awning or not, Gore-Tex or not, we were soaked!

Since we were already wet, we might as well go to the restaurant—they weren’t far! But here’s the thing: contrary to what Google Maps said, they all opened at 1 PM, not noon! Back to the car, wading through 5 cm of water because all the village streets were flooded . The rain let up, we did some shopping, went to eat, and I got a message from the owner saying the accommodation was ready 🙂.

So, off we went to La Suerte, a few kilometers north of Agaete. The downside of the place, especially with luggage, is that you have to climb several flights of stairs via an outdoor staircase (after parking more or less far away on a steep street) to get there 😛). Of course, on the way from the car to the apartment, it started pouring again—the bags got soaked! Enough rain for today! We settled in quietly, and by late afternoon, we could (finally!) go admire the view from the terrace.

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Jcpo 3 weeks ago · AlineP

A Week in Lanzarote in Late September

Lanzarote Travel Journal

Trip Planning My partner and I are heading to the Canary Islands for a week at the end of September, specifically to Lanzarote. We chose this island over the more crowded ones for its volcanic landscape and the variety of hikes it offers. I booked everything through Expedia: our hotel stay, car rental, and Ryanair flight tickets departing from Marseille. It was the only way to get a direct flight. To make getting around easier during our stay, I picked a hotel located in the center of the island from the wide selection available. It’s part of the Barceló chain, specifically the "Barceló Teguise Beach Adults Only" in Teguise Beach, which turned out to be an excellent choice.

The Trip

Sunday, September 21 - Monday, September 22 Departure It’s 2:15 PM, and we’re at the Avignon TGV station. Danielle picked us up earlier due to the weather—thunderstorms and heavy rain all the way to the station. The TGV was on time, and it only took 30 minutes to reach Marseille Saint-Charles. The shuttle to the airport is quick and convenient, right behind the station. The bus leaves for the airport in the middle of the storm, with flooded roads and cars stuck in some spots. We get soaked making our way to the terminal. Two hours to wait before the flight. The plane finally takes off at midnight, but just before landing, the pilot announces that the destination airport is closed, and we’re being diverted to Tenerife. Ryanair will re-route us as soon as possible. We end up waiting 2 hours, and Ryanair kindly gives us a 4 € voucher. We re-board around 5:15 AM and take off at 6:00 AM. About 45 minutes to reach Lanzarote. After collecting our luggage, we head to the car rental desk. The counter in the terminal is closed, and we’re directed to parking lot P4—it takes us a while to find it. I’m a bit worried about the rental company’s reaction since the car was supposed to be picked up 7 hours earlier, but it’s not a problem. A woman next to us is furious because she’s in the same situation, and her rental was canceled. Anne-Marie translates for her, but nothing changes. We pick up a brand-new Toyota Aigo and head to the hotel. After checking in, we cross the garden, walking alongside the large pool to reach our room. A lovely first-floor room with a jacuzzi and a sea view. It’s early, so we head to breakfast—a generously stocked and varied buffet with everything you could want. Afterward, we drive to Cueva de los Verdes, but it’s packed with people and a long wait. We decide to come back another day. Next, we visit Mirador Del Rio. This rocky viewpoint at the edge of the island has breathtaking cliffs plunging 500 meters into the ocean. The view is stunning and impressive. A panoramic bar lets you cool off while enjoying the scenery. We return to the hotel for a short walk around the neighborhood and enjoy the beautiful pool with its pleasant water temperature. Relaxing by the pool, sun loungers, and all. In the evening, a very varied buffet at the restaurant. Then early to bed to recover from the sleepless night before.

Tuesday, September 23 After a restful night, we enjoy another varied and hearty breakfast. The terrace seating is very pleasant. We take an inland road leading to Timanfaya National Park. The road near the park runs alongside vineyards where the vines are surrounded by lava stone walls to protect them from the prevailing winds. Our first stop is at the visitor center, where the island’s volcanic activity is well-documented. Next, we stop at an area where you can take a short camel ride—two seats are installed on either side of the camel’s hump. This little ride offers a great view of the volcanic landscape from a higher vantage point. A fair price of 11 € per seat for a 20-minute ride. We then head to the park entrance via the road leading to the parking lot, where only authorized buses can take the winding route inside the park. It’s crowded, and we wait about 45 minutes with several stops before reaching the parking lot. We board the bus, and the route offers beautiful views of this volcanic area and its many craters. The journey is very interesting, with several stops for photos. At the parking lot, a guide shows us how the heat from the rocks beneath the surface can ignite dry vegetation. Water poured into holes in the ground immediately creates geysers and jets of steam. The building next to the parking lot has a restaurant where meat is cooked using the heat from a well dug into the volcanic rock. On our way back, we drive to Playa Blanca, a seaside town with a small sandy beach.

Back at the hotel in the late afternoon for dinner.

Wednesday, September 24 We wake up early and have a quick breakfast—few people are around at this hour. Two days ago, we booked a 10:00 AM visit to Los Verdes, lava tunnels created by eruptions and lava flows from the La Corona volcano, which extended all the way to the coast. When the lava came into contact with the air, it solidified on the surface while continuing to flow underneath. The lava tunnels stretch for 8 kilometers to the volcano, but we only walk one kilometer. The inside of the tunnel is impressive, with narrow passages and larger chambers. You can see traces left by the flowing liquid lava—varied colors and twisted shapes. At the end of the path, a large chamber has been turned into a concert hall with perfect acoustics. Next, we visit Jameo Del Agua. This is a continuation of the lava tunnel, developed by Manrique. There are beautifully designed bar and restaurant areas, as well as an underground lake where you can see small blind white crabs—a protected species in this very pure water. Higher up, there’s a lovely space with a central pool that could double as a swimming area, surrounded by beautifully designed white pathways that contrast with the blue water. Further on, you reach a large space inside the lava tunnel, set up as a performance hall with perfect acoustics. Stairs let you view this beautiful space from above. A gap in the lava landscape reveals the ocean on the horizon. We head back toward the village of Yé, at the foot of the La Corona volcano. A 160-meter walk from the church, a path crosses vineyard plots and then climbs to the top of the volcano’s crater in about 30 minutes. It’s the island’s highest volcano. When you reach the edge of the crater, you see how deep it is, with steep slopes inside forming a large circular opening. The place is breathtaking and awe-inspiring. We drive back to the hotel via a road that climbs quickly, offering a beautiful view of the island’s northern part.

Thursday, September 25 After another enjoyable and varied breakfast, we head to the center of the island toward the volcano park and stop at a roadside parking lot where a path leads to the Montana Cuervo volcano. This is a crater that opened on one side. During an eruption, an explosion created a breach in the crater. Huge blocks of rock were thrown dozens of meters away. The path goes through the breach and descends into the crater, allowing you to walk around it. It’s impressive, and you really feel small and fragile in this environment. The crater walls, with their different colors, highlight the rock formations. The crater is surrounded by a sea of lava with sharp, jagged rocks. You can walk around the outside of the crater, but it’s not very interesting. We then head to the west coast, stopping at a spot with a small green lake next to a beautiful black sand beach. Next, we stop at Salinas de Janubio, a lovely viewpoint overlooking the salt marshes with different water colors. A small shop sells various local products. We then head to the famous Papagayo beach. The road ends at a booth where they charge 3 € to continue. From here, the land is private, and you have to pay to drive down a 3-kilometer rocky dirt road. Quite a few cars are driving along it, kicking up clouds of dust. The car gets a dusty makeover. We arrive at a large parking area, with several paths leading to different small beaches. We go to Papagayo, a small blonde sand beach surrounded by red rocks. The beach slopes gently into the water, which is a pleasant temperature. The setting is charming and peaceful. We stay for a while before heading back to the hotel.

Friday, September 26 We start with a visit to the César Manrique Foundation in Tahiche. This was originally one of his homes. The modern construction spans several levels and is integrated into the lava flow, using the gaps to create living spaces. Large windows make the rooms bright and open to the scenery. The place is pleasant, with flower-filled gardens outside. It’s well worth a visit. Next, we drive to Las Grietas, where a path leads to a narrow crack in the volcanic rock, forming a tight passage where only one person can walk at a time. The passage isn’t very long, but progress is slow due to the endless selfies being taken here. We then stop at Casa Del Camposino, a renovated farm that houses several artisan shops. We taste a local wine recommended by a charming woman and buy two bottles of Lanzarote red wine on her advice. Now, we head to Tamara beach, a beautiful and wide beach at the foot of high cliffs. There are always great waves here, making it a surfer’s paradise. On the way back to the hotel, we stop at the cactus garden, César Manrique’s final creation. Designed with a great sense of aesthetics around an old windmill, it features 4,500 varieties of cacti in various shapes, all in a beautiful setting. We return to the hotel in the late afternoon for the evening.

Saturday, September 27 After another hearty breakfast, we head north to Haria. We stumble upon another of César Manrique’s homes, where he lived for a long time. This house is more traditional than the previous one but still has large, modern, and very pleasant rooms. At the back of the garden is his large studio, where he created his works. Next, we visit the craft market—this was our original plan. Various stalls offer local items, and it’s very crowded. No room at the café terraces to sit down. We then return to Famara beach for a long stay. There are always great waves here, much to the surfers’ delight. The water temperature is pleasant, and we enjoy it. On the way back to the hotel, we stop at a gas station to refill the car, which has been very fuel-efficient. Gas is also much cheaper here than in France—1.16 € per liter of SP95. We also wash the car, which was very dusty after the long dirt road to Papagayo beach. At the hotel, we enjoy a farewell cocktail before dinner.

Sunday, September 28 We spend the morning by the hotel pool before checking out at noon. For lunch, we go to a restaurant called "Dona Lola," near the hotel, with a terrace offering a view of the coast. We order tuna carpaccio, which is delicious. We then head to the airport, just 15 minutes away. We return the rental car and go to the airport. A long line to check in our luggage. The return flight is on time. A shuttle bus takes us to Saint-Charles station. We then head to our overnight rental. The boulevard slopes down, making it easier with the suitcases. The rental is between the old port and the train station. Once there, we pick up the keys and make one last effort to carry the luggage up to the third floor. The studio is nice, clean, and simply equipped—perfect for one night.

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Puma2A 4 weeks ago

In MIKUMI and SELOUS, Southern Tanzania (June 2024)

Hi everyone,

I’m a newbie to this forum, passionate about wildlife, the landscapes of East Africa, and Tanzania in particular. This June 2024 trip/safari is our 7th visit to Tanzania and our 5th in the south, which has drawn us more than the north ever since we discovered it in 2015.

In 2024, the entrance fees for the reserves and services have gone up again since our last visit. I chose to return first to Mikumi Reserve, which was the very first one we visited in the south. Then, we’ll head to Selous (J. Nyerere N. P.) as usual. Initially, we wanted to spend 2/3 days on Mafia Island at the end of the trip, but it made the total cost too high, so we gave up... We usually go to Ruaha and Selous, but I wanted to mix it up a bit—also to save some money...

As for the timing, June is a new experience for us. I thought it might be interesting to come just after the lodges reopen... hoping for some great wildlife encounters??

The trip starts in Marseille with our first flight on Ethiopian Airlines to Addis Ababa, then continues to Dar es Salaam, where we’ll finally set foot on Tanzanian soil again.

In Addis... "our" A-350.

.....

After arriving in Dar, we spent one night at a hotel near the airport. The next morning, we headed to the domestic flights terminal, which hasn’t changed in years.

By mid-morning, we boarded a Cessna 208B Caravan with Safari Air Link, heading to the Kikoboga bush airstrip in Mikumi, which we reached 45 minutes later. Fun fact: the pilot was the same one as on our return flight two years ago.

Welcome on board:

Of course, a driver/guide team from our chosen lodge was waiting for us upon arrival:

I was surprised to see so many aircraft parked there... even twin-engine Embraer Brasilias?? As a fan of vintage planes, I loved it...

On the other hand, the light was incredibly harsh.....!! Our guides only speak English. We knew that in advance. In the south, it’s very rare to find someone who speaks French. This’ll force us to dig into our high school English memories... from 60 years ago... at least.

It’s noon, and we head toward the lodge. Near the airstrip, next to the Mikumi rangers’ base, there are quite a few herbivores. They find a bit more peace here—the big cats don’t venture this way...

Our first encounter was a group of Masai giraffes.

Rarer (for us), a savanna monitor lizard basking in the sun right in the middle of the track...??

A large gathering of impalas (mostly males) along with a few blue wildebeest:

Also unusual: a African crowned hornbill taking a dust bath in the middle of the track...!!

When it comes to identifying mammals or birds, I don’t know everything... so I might make mistakes. Please forgive me. I’m counting on my friend Blesl’s active participation... 😉

...

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Retour de 16 jours en Afrique du Sud (Le Cap, Swaziland, Kruger) en famille en août

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